[Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[DM4iM]

Elecrafters,
i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in 
Friedrichshafen, DL.
I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin 
that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped 
without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.

Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german 
dealers sell asia-made copies?

I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.

-- 

73,
Martin DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Clock Accuracy

[Jan Holmer SM6TUW]

I consulted the data sheet for the clock circuit PCF8563T (U16 in the K3 
circuit diagram ) You can adjust the average deviation over one year to less 
than +- 5 minutes. Adjustment of one capacitior (C60) is required though. 
http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/datasheets/PCF8563_6.pdf

Jan
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[Elecraft] K3: Memory Recall

[Tom Boucher]

Thanks Art, that was the problem. I had tried to set up memory hopping between 
bands, which unlike my TS850, the K3 won't do.

WB8ENE wrote:
Sounds like you have a * in the first position of the name for that memory
location.


Knut AB2TC - you have to push the M>V button a second time if VFO A knob is 
used to select memory number, but not if you use the number keys.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Memory Recall

[Brett Howard]

Actually the K3 can do this!

You just have to setup the K3 to not do delayed memory updating.

Go into the CONFIG:MEM 0-9 menu entry and press the 1 button to select
M>V NOR.  Now when you're in the memory mode you can turn the VFO and
the memories will be gone to in real time.  M>V DLY is something I
prefer usually as you'll have all the relays clicking in the band pass
and low pass filters as you ratchet through your memories and what
not...  But its a lot more like Kenwood does things once you set it up
that way.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 10:02 +0100, Tom Boucher wrote:
> Thanks Art, that was the problem. I had tried to set up memory hopping 
> between bands, which unlike my TS850, the K3 won't do.
> 
> WB8ENE wrote:
> Sounds like you have a * in the first position of the name for that memory
> location.
> 
> 
> Knut AB2TC - you have to push the M>V button a second time if VFO A knob is 
> used to select memory number, but not if you use the number keys.
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Brett Howard]

I just bought a rigrunner from HRO and also bought some extra APP
connectors...  The APP's that came with the rig runner did not have roll
pins but the HRO branded extras that I bought did have them.  So there
are still places where you can get your hands on them.

~Brett

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 09:36 +0200, DM4iM wrote:
> Elecrafters,
> i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in 
> Friedrichshafen, DL.
> I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin 
> that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped 
> without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.
> 
> Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german 
> dealers sell asia-made copies?
> 
> I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.
> 
> -- 
> 
> 73,
> Martin DM4iM
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[Elecraft] test

[Kevin Luxford]

test
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Mike]

A fast Google turns them up at
http://www.powerwerx.com/
both connector sets with roll pin and roll pins alone.

Here's a list of European distributors.
http://www.andersonpower.com/contact/contact-europe-ad.html

73, Mike NF4L

DM4iM wrote:
> Elecrafters,
> i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in 
> Friedrichshafen, DL.
> I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin 
> that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped 
> without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.
>
> Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german 
> dealers sell asia-made copies?
>
> I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.
>
>   


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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[hb9brj]

Martin,

Your eyes are better than mine! I could not find any APP vendor in
Friedrichshafen. My original stock mail-ordered in the U.S. is nearly
depleted. Please let the many European readers of this list know who is
selling APPs in Europe. Thank you!

73, Markus HB9BRJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Alexandr Kobranov]

Hi Markus,

very good experience with this APPs suplier on EU market

http://torberry.co.uk/shop/

No problems with order/shipment...

GL
73!
Lexa, ok1dst


Dne 28.6.2010 12:44, hb9brj napsal(a):
>
> Martin,
>
> Your eyes are better than mine! I could not find any APP vendor in
> Friedrichshafen. My original stock mail-ordered in the U.S. is nearly
> depleted. Please let the many European readers of this list know who is
> selling APPs in Europe. Thank you!
>
> 73, Markus HB9BRJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Pete Smith]

West Mountain Radio, maker of the Rig Runner, recommends against using 
the pins in the strongest terms on its web site.  The issue (they say) 
is that the pins have a nasty habit of coming out and falling into 
places they should not go, where they can cause short circuits and 
extensive damage.  See . 
  WMR says Anderson recommends using cyanoacrylate glu.e

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000


On 6/28/2010 5:37 AM, Brett Howard wrote:
> I just bought a rigrunner from HRO and also bought some extra APP
> connectors...  The APP's that came with the rig runner did not have roll
> pins but the HRO branded extras that I bought did have them.  So there
> are still places where you can get your hands on them.
>
> ~Brett
>
> On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 09:36 +0200, DM4iM wrote:
>
>> Elecrafters,
>> i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in
>> Friedrichshafen, DL.
>> I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin
>> that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped
>> without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.
>>
>> Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german
>> dealers sell asia-made copies?
>>
>> I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.
>>
>> --
>>
>> 73,
>> Martin DM4iM
>> __
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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Jim Miller]

I just squirt a bit of hotmelt glue in the hole once I've assembled them.

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Robert Mitilieri]

Most connectors fit together quite snugly. If the fit is too loose I found that 
a bit of silicone sealant squeezed into the locking pin hole is sufficient to 
keep the connectors together.

Robert N9EF
K3 4411

On Jun 28, 2010, at 6:47 AM, Pete Smith wrote:

> West Mountain Radio, maker of the Rig Runner, recommends against using 
> the pins in the strongest terms on its web site.  The issue (they say) 
> is that the pins have a nasty habit of coming out and falling into 
> places they should not go, where they can cause short circuits and 
> extensive damage.  See . 
>  WMR says Anderson recommends using cyanoacrylate glu.e
> 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> 
> The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
> The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
> reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
> spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000
> 
> 
> On 6/28/2010 5:37 AM, Brett Howard wrote:
>> I just bought a rigrunner from HRO and also bought some extra APP
>> connectors...  The APP's that came with the rig runner did not have roll
>> pins but the HRO branded extras that I bought did have them.  So there
>> are still places where you can get your hands on them.
>> 
>> ~Brett
>> 
>> On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 09:36 +0200, DM4iM wrote:
>> 
>>> Elecrafters,
>>> i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in
>>> Friedrichshafen, DL.
>>> I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin
>>> that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped
>>> without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.
>>> 
>>> Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german
>>> dealers sell asia-made copies?
>>> 
>>> I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Martin DM4iM
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> 
>> 
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[W2bpi1]

I use a piece of Q-tip shaft. Very tight fit. If it did come out it won't  
short anything.  Geo/W2BPI
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[Elecraft] Power Poles...

[John Ragle]

 Aside from "Polish Solidarity" this long string of emails about the 
Anderson variety only confirms my experience-based opinion that these 
connectors are very poorly designed and should be avoided. People I know 
who use them in mobile applications tape them together. My K2 experience 
with them was grossly unsatisfactory. There are other, better, options 
for locking power connectors...

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[K4IA]

After watching the PP connectors on my  K3 wiggle around at Field Day, I 
have to question again why Elecraft chose these  toads-in-a-tuxedo for a 
connector.  PP are way over-rated.  The only  strain relief they provide is 
when 
they come apart - which is often.  I  suppose we could call that defect an 
"undocumented feature."   A  simple molex would have been fine and a whole 
lot more secure.

But not to start a flame war over PPs, I'll stay positive.  Anyone  have 
any ideas on how to better secure the PP in the K3?  Mine wiggles and  I am 
thinking about some hot glue to the circuit board.   

Buck
k4ia K3 #101 

In a message dated 6/28/2010 8:52:34 A.M.  Eastern Daylight Time, 
tpcj1...@crocker.com writes:
Aside from "Polish Solidarity" this long string of emails about the 
Anderson  variety only confirms my experience-based opinion that these 
connectors are  very poorly designed and should be avoided. People I know 
who use them in  mobile applications tape them together. My K2 experience 
with them was  grossly unsatisfactory. There are other, better, options 
for locking power  connectors...

John Ragle --  W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

If one has to tape them together, the most likely problem is that they 
were not assembled correctly.  Properly assembled APPs are very good and 
have an adequate amount of pullout resistance.  The specification is 25 
lbf - so yes, they will not withstand a 25 pound pull force, but that is 
quite substantial - at anything below that they should stay together.  I 
have never had any problem with them, and I use them on all my DC 
connections.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Ragle wrote:
>  Aside from "Polish Solidarity" this long string of emails about the 
> Anderson variety only confirms my experience-based opinion that these 
> connectors are very poorly designed and should be avoided. People I know 
> who use them in mobile applications tape them together. My K2 experience 
> with them was grossly unsatisfactory. There are other, better, options 
> for locking power connectors...
>
> John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[K4IA]

After watching the PP connectors on my K3 wiggle around at Field  Day, I 
have to question again why Elecraft chose these toads-in-a-tuxedo for a  
connector.  PP are way over-rated.  The only strain relief they  provide is 
when 
they come apart - which is often.  I suppose we could  call that defect an 
undocumented "feature."   A simple molex  would have been fine and a whole 
lot more secure.   
 
But not to start a flame war over PPs, I'll stay positive.  Anyone  have 
any ideas on how to better secure the PP in the K3?  Mine wiggles and  I am 
thinking about some hot glue.  
 
Buck
k4ia K3 #101 
 
 
In a message dated 6/28/2010 8:08:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
j...@jtmiller.com writes:

I just  squirt a bit of hotmelt glue in the hole once I've assembled them.

jim  ab3cv
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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 with many options

[KK5NA]

I am selling an Elecraft K3 from Larry Jones' (N50SG) Estate
for his wife.

Here are the particulars:

---
K3/100   100 W Transceiver  

KAT3  Internal ATU with 2nd Ant. Jack   

KBPF3  General Coverage RX Bandpass Module  (Adds coverage outside of
ham bands.

KXV3 RX Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface

KDVR3  Digital Voice Recorder

KTCXO3-1  TCXO 1ppm (0.5 ppm typ) High Stability Reference Oscillator

KUSB   USB (Universal Serial Bus) Adapter for the K3


K3 Crystal Filters
--
KFL3A-400  400 Hz, narrow 8-pole  filter
KFL3A-1.8K  1.8 kHz, 8-pole filter *
KFL3A-2.8K  2.8 kHz, 8-pole filter
KFL3A-6K  6 kHz AM / ESSB, 8-pole filter (req'd for AM)

Sale price is $2700.00  plus shipping/ins.

Please reply direct to kk...@kk5na.com


Joe KK5NA


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Paul Christensen]

I'm traveling at the moment and can't confirm this, but is may be possible 
to use a small retention wire if there's a roll-pin hole on the K3's APP. 
The West Mountain RigRunners use these to keep the APPs intact and it works 
very well.

I have mixed feelings about the APP.  I like it for its versatility and ease 
of assembly -- I hate it for its long-term reliability.  No doubt many AAPs 
are assembled incorrectly, but there are a great number of correctly 
assembled APPs that unnecessarily disconnect with lateral pressure.  If the 
connector breaks away during a high-current moment, the pins can form arc 
pits.  The problem seems to be aggravated with the use of larger cable 
conductor size -- like that needed on the rear of the K3 to handle ~ 20A of 
DC current.

I have two commercial APP crimpers, the best of which keeps the tongue of 
the pin from bending during the crimp.  That certainly helps, but other 
connectors with locking tabs seem to be a better solution for high-current 
equipment.   What's needed is a low-cost, reliable connector that remains 
stable with wire pressure, but still breaks away with a high amount of 
pressure in the event of an accidental strike to the cable.

One possibility is to design high-current equipment with a quad APP panel 
connector and double-up on the contacts.  That way, the connector: (1) 
becomes square in shape, instead of a thin rectangle that's prone to 
accidental lateral pulls; (2) offers higher current-carrying capabilities; 
and (3) has significantly increased pull strength, yet can still break away 
for safety concerns.

http://tinyurl.com/29ktqmw

Paul, W9AC

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Jim Brown]

On Mon, 28 Jun 2010 09:13:21 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

>I have never had any problem with them, and I use them on all my DC 
>connections.

Same here. I LOVE the Power Pole connectors, and use them extensively. 
I've broken all of my various DC power leads to insert them so that I 
can mix and match power supplies and equipment.  

73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Low headphone audio level

[N1JM]

I see there is a new review on eham where he had low headphone audio.

John N1JM
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Paul Christensen]

> That way, the connector: (1) becomes square in shape, instead of a thin 
> rectangle that's prone to
> accidental lateral pulls; (2) offers higher current-carrying capabilities;
> and (3) has significantly increased pull strength, yet can still break 
> away
> for safety concerns.

Just thought of a fourth benefit.  A quad APP panel connector can still use 
the standard ARES 2-pole format in a pinch.  So, in an emergency, existing 
2-pole APPs could be used with the square-shaped quad-pole being the 
preferred connector.  With the doubling-up on pins on the quad, either side 
of the quad will mate with the 2-pole APP and there's no possibility of 
accidental polarity reversal.

I did say I liked the APP for its versatility :-))

Paul, W9AC 

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[Elecraft] K3s at Field Day 2010

[Jed Petrovich]

Hello all:

We had a great time at Field Day this year. We planned on using four K3s for
our Class 4A operation. For the most part, everything went well.

We did have to use a backup rig for one of the stations. During setup, one
of the K3s gave an error at startup: ERR PL1

After a period of time, we turned the rig back on and the error message no
longer displayed. However, whenever we tried to connect the Prolific USB
cable to the rig, it would "beep" and would not communicate with the logging
software, N1MM.

Any ideas on what may be the problem?

Thanks,

Jed
AD7KG
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Grant Youngman]

I'm actually not entirely sure how one reverses polarity with a properly 
assembled PP connector.  I suppose one could hammer them together in the wrong 
orientation?  :-)

It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers to solve the polarity 
problem by using a bridge rectifier at the power input, although that has a 
definite downside as well.

I like them also.  Even my rotator control cable and outdoor antenna switch 
disconnects are sets of power poles -- they are mounted in a housing (and 
pinned in place) that locks into its counterpart.  But it isn't possible to 
accidentally put the two connector sets together in anything but the correct 
orientation.  

As far as the two halves of a 2-pole power connector sliding apart or becoming 
slightly misaligned, a little drop of super glue when assembling the halves 
solves that problem nicely.

Power Poles, like them or not, have become the defacto standard.  Learning how 
to manage them is probably better than just grumbling about them -- at least 
until the next thing, whatever that is,  comes along to set a new standard.

Grant/NQ5T


On Jun 28, 2010, at 9:06 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:
> 
> I did say I liked the APP for its versatility :-))
> 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s at Field Day 2010

[WILLIS COOKE]

I was never able to get a Prolific based USB converter to work with N1MM and my 
Windows 7, HP computer.  I bought a PCIe RS-232 card and the problem went 
away.  The Prolific USB Converter is the one that I bought from Elecraft and it 
works fine with the Elecraft software, but not with N1MM.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Jed Petrovich 
To: Elecraft Email List 
Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 9:18:15 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s at Field Day 2010

Hello all:

We had a great time at Field Day this year. We planned on using four K3s for
our Class 4A operation. For the most part, everything went well.

We did have to use a backup rig for one of the stations. During setup, one
of the K3s gave an error at startup: ERR PL1

After a period of time, we turned the rig back on and the error message no
longer displayed. However, whenever we tried to connect the Prolific USB
cable to the rig, it would "beep" and would not communicate with the logging
software, N1MM.

Any ideas on what may be the problem?

Thanks,

Jed
AD7KG
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Steve Ellington]

I never mess with those PP connectors on the back of the K3. They feel like 
they would fall apart easily. I just leave them connected and at the other 
end of the cable, I wrap them around the power supplies (Astron RS35) 
terminal and tighten with a wrench. What a novel idea eh? I've been known to 
solder LUGS on the ends! I've even run 3 devices off the PS by stacking 
those lugs 3 deep on the big terminals. Never had a problem.
Oheventually the ends of the wire might wear out No problem...Just 
strip the insulation and start over.
For temporary splicing I usually wrap the wires together and slap some 
electrical tape on it. For permanent work, I use solder then tape. No 
special tools needed.
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: "Grant Youngman" 
To: "Elecraft Email" 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...


> I'm actually not entirely sure how one reverses polarity with a properly 
> assembled PP connector.  I suppose one could hammer them together in the 
> wrong orientation?  :-)
>
> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers to solve the polarity 
> problem by using a bridge rectifier at the power input, although that has 
> a definite downside as well.
>
> I like them also.  Even my rotator control cable and outdoor antenna 
> switch disconnects are sets of power poles -- they are mounted in a 
> housing (and pinned in place) that locks into its counterpart.  But it 
> isn't possible to accidentally put the two connector sets together in 
> anything but the correct orientation.
>
> As far as the two halves of a 2-pole power connector sliding apart or 
> becoming slightly misaligned, a little drop of super glue when assembling 
> the halves solves that problem nicely.
>
> Power Poles, like them or not, have become the defacto standard.  Learning 
> how to manage them is probably better than just grumbling about them -- at 
> least until the next thing, whatever that is,  comes along to set a new 
> standard.
>
> Grant/NQ5T
>
>
> On Jun 28, 2010, at 9:06 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:
>>
>> I did say I liked the APP for its versatility :-))
>>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Phil & Debbie Salas]

I've used these PowerPole connectors for several years, both for mobile and 
fixed station use.  I've never had a problem with these connectors coming 
apart, even in the mobile environment.  I crimp the wire to the contacts 
using the West Mountain Radio crimper, and all crimps have been perfect.  I 
don't use that little roll-pin however.  I normally put a dab of superglue 
on one housing just before sliding the red & black housings together.  I do 
this before snapping the wire/contacts into the completed housing.  I've 
built somewhere between 100-200 connector pairs so far (I'm on my second bag 
of 100 pairs).

Phil - AD5X 

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[Elecraft] Power Poles

[Dan Atchison]

I like Paul's idea listed below.

Personally, I like APP.  If they are assembled correctly, there is more 
than ample "holding" power.
That said, I AM anal and always support ANY connection with strain 
relief.

Oh, and how the heck can those roll pins fall out?  They're in there so 
tight, you need an
awl or other tool to remove them!  Again, if they're assembled 
correctly, . . . . . .

Dan -- N3ND

BTW, Field Day (NR3X), Class 3A, two K3's, one K2.  Is there any other 
rig?



> That way, the connector: (1) becomes square in shape, instead of a 
thin
> rectangle that's prone to
> accidental lateral pulls; (2) offers higher current-carrying 
capabilities;
> and (3) has significantly increased pull strength, yet can still 
break
> away
> for safety concerns.

Just thought of a fourth benefit.  A quad APP panel connector can still 
use
the standard ARES 2-pole format in a pinch.  So, in an emergency, 
existing
2-pole APPs could be used with the square-shaped quad-pole being the
preferred connector.  With the doubling-up on pins on the quad, either 
side
of the quad will mate with the 2-pole APP and there's no possibility of
accidental polarity reversal.

I did say I liked the APP for its versatility :-))

Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s at Field Day 2010

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't know is all Elecraft cables are the same.  I bought mine in 2008 when I 
bought serial number 1025.  Elecraft did not build it, it is an aftermarket 
product.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: K9ZTV 
To: WILLIS COOKE 
Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 9:49:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s at Field Day 2010

The Elecraft converter cables worked fine with N1MM on four K3s at our Field 
Day site, Willis.  Laptops were 2 Vistas and 2 XPs.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV
Mid-MO Amateur Radio Club
Jefferson City, MO
SN #21




On 6/28/2010 9:30 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrote: 
I was never able to get a Prolific based USB converter to work with N1MM and my 
Windows 7, HP computer.  I bought a PCIe RS-232 card and the problem went 
away.  The Prolific USB Converter is the one that I bought from Elecraft and it 
works fine with the Elecraft software, but not with N1MM.
> Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
>K5EWJ 
>


  
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[Elecraft] The K2 at Field Day

[Vic Rosenthal]

We operated 1A battery class at FD. Unfortunately our secret location at 8500 
feet was 
snowed in, so we had to operate from an alternate spot that was far inferior.

But my QRP K2 no. 709 cranked out the CW QSOs all weekend without a hitch, 
while drawing 
minimal current from the battery. Operators unfamiliar with the K2 quickly 
became 
competent with it. The clean audio and easy-to-listen-to sidetone reduced 
operator 
fatigue, and the filter was more than adequate for the job.

I love my K3, but there is absolutely no better weapon for 1A battery class 
than the K2.
-- 
Vic
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[Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Howard K2HK]

I had a very senior moment yesterday related to PowerPoles and could use some 
help. The power supply that my K3 is powered by has an auxiliary cigar lighter  
outlet. In the midst of a project (too late at night)I plugged that cable into 
a similiar PowerPole which turned out to be the cable from another  P/S which 
happens to be a 24 VDC supply.The K3 went dead in a blink. Does not restart. 
First, any suggestion of where to start looking? Second, although this never 
happened to me before  it is something to be aware of if you have several 
terminals dangling at your desk. Embarrassing situation!

Howard..K2HK






  
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Tom W8JI]

- Original Message - 
From: "Grant Youngman" 
To: "Elecraft Email" 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers to solve the polarity 
> problem by using a bridge rectifier at the power input, although that has 
> a definite downside as well.
>

It sure does have a downside. The 1.4 volts drop would seriously hurt the 
maximum low-distortion power output. 13.8 volts is bad enough for clean SSB 
at the 100 watt level. 

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[Elecraft] K3 and Icom 1000

[Nick Henwood]

Have had problem with Acom tripping on semi-break in CW. Seem to have solved it 
by increasing Vox delay but not totally convinced. Appreciate chance to discuss 
off-reflector with anyone who has had similar experience
73 Nick G3RWF 
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Grant Youngman]

That was the point.

The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power pole connector, put it 
together properly,  and LABEL the darn thing to avoid disasters like plugging a 
24v supply into a 12v radio?  :-)

Grant/NQ5T


On Jun 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:

> 
> - Original Message - From: "Grant Youngman" 
> To: "Elecraft Email" 
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
>> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers to solve the polarity 
>> problem by using a bridge rectifier at the power input, although that has a 
>> definite downside as well.
>> 
> 
> It sure does have a downside. The 1.4 volts drop would seriously hurt the 
> maximum low-distortion power output. 13.8 volts is bad enough for clean SSB 
> at the 100 watt level. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Low headphone audio level

[Bill NY9H]

>Jim said:
>  Fifth, hams seem to confuse the setting of the
>front panel controls with how much audio the rig can put out.


Do you mean to tell me that I might be getting full audio output at 9 
o clock  ?
wow . ; )
I suppose that goes for my gutbuster car stereo as well..



(ps to jim : I worked k9or during field daydid you  ??? )

bill/3


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[Elecraft] Elecraft at WRTC 2010

[Bill W4ZV]

>From customs import documents for WRTC 2010:

http://www.wrtc2010.ru/press/R3_license_for_DME.pdf

and

http://www.wrtc2010.ru/press/R3_license_for_SVO.pdf

K3: 42 (maybe a few more due to customs docs errors)
K2: 2

Total listed rig count is ~90 (also subject to a few changes).

Nearly 50% Elecraft and the K3 a clear favorite.  Congrats guys!  

73,  Bill
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-at-WRTC-2010-tp5231399p5231399.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Clocks and WHATEVER!

[JIM DAVIS]

Gentlemen,

Honestly we've never even bothered to set up our K3 for the "clock-function"!

Why? Don't need it!

We've got a few other time-pieces around the shack that are ALWAYS ON THE 
"NAT'S fanny" In 
particular I'm also using an "ETON XM-1" SWL rcvr, though rather pricey it's 
sensitivity is 
fabulous, especially as concerns it's internal (CLOCK)! I've owned the small 
unit now for around 
5yrs and it's NEVER lost a minute, whether using it's "wall-wart" or my 
supplied "D-Cells" (4 of 
them)!

Regards,

Jim/nn6ee
S/N (K3):2406
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[Elecraft] Is this another K3 glitch???

[JIM DAVIS]

Gentlemen,

A few days ago I was listening on my K3 on 20m (either mode/band segment) and 
instead of the usual 
"S5" noise indication on my S-meter it was only (S-1) even with the preamp on! 
This also occurs on 
17m as well! While all the other bands show the regular/typical reading (S-5 
plus or minus a 
smidge!) I know the my C3 yagi works on those bands because we also use a Icom 
7200 (standby rig) 
and it's S-meter readings on ALL BANDS including 20 and 17 are NORMAL/as to be 
expected!

Any IDEAS???

Regards,

Jim/nn6ee
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[Elecraft] K3 and ACOM 1000 - not Icom!

[Nick Henwood]

I meant ACOM of course - not ICOM  (brilliant spell check!). Grateful for 
shared experience of linear tripping on semi-break-in cw
73 Nick G3RWF
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[Elecraft] K3 Anderson Power Poles

[Terry Schieler]

After reading WestMountain Radio's comments on the APP roll rings a few
years back, I began just snapping off toothpicks in the roll pin hole and
dropping a dab of CA (super glue) on the tooth pick.  I can still get the
toothpicks out if necessary (use a small drill bit) and they don't get into
places that they shouldn't.  Works well for me.

73 Terry, W0FM




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Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Bob]

OOPS!!

Lets see here.  Power Poles come in all the standard color codes plus a 
non standard pink.

So:  12 volt cables are brn-red
   5 volt cables are pink-grn
24 volt cables are red-yel
48 volt cables are red-gry

Works for me

73,
Bob
K2TK


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Re: [Elecraft] Is this another K3 glitch???

[Greg - AB7R]

Could you have selected ANT2 or the RX ANT on 20M?  The K3 remembers these by 
band 
so it could be set wrong on 20M and correct on the other bands.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Sun Jun 27 13:30 , "JIM DAVIS"  sent:

>Gentlemen,
>
>A few days ago I was listening on my K3 on 20m (either mode/band segment) and 
instead of the usual 
>"S5" noise indication on my S-meter it was only (S-1) even with the preamp on! 
This also occurs on 
>17m as well! While all the other bands show the regular/typical reading (S-5 
>plus 
or minus a 
>smidge!) I know the my C3 yagi works on those bands because we also use a Icom 
7200 (standby rig) 
>and it's S-meter readings on ALL BANDS including 20 and 17 are NORMAL/as to be 
expected!
>
>Any IDEAS???
>
>Regards,
>
>Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Eugene Balinski]

One method to avoid confusion is to use different color
power poles for different supply voltagesred-black for
13.5V,   green-black for 24V,  White-black for 5V, etc

Many sites sell the various color options.

73
K1NR

K2 SN 6k...   


On Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:48:20 -0500
 Grant Youngman  wrote:
> That was the point.
> 
> The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power
> pole connector, put it together properly,  and LABEL the
> darn thing to avoid disasters like plugging a 24v supply
> into a 12v radio?  :-)
> 
> Grant/NQ5T
> 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:
> 
> > 
> > - Original Message - From: "Grant Youngman"
> 
> > To: "Elecraft Email" 
> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
> >> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers
> to solve the polarity problem by using a bridge rectifier
> at the power input, although that has a definite downside
> as well.
> >> 
> > 
> > It sure does have a downside. The 1.4 volts drop would
> seriously hurt the maximum low-distortion power output.
> 13.8 volts is bad enough for clean SSB at the 100 watt
> level. 
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Bob]

MY OOPS TOO!!

The 48 volt ones here are yel-gry here

Of  course I spotted that right after hitting send in spite of reading it.


73,
Bob
K2TK

On 6/28/2010 12:19 PM, Bob wrote:
> OOPS!!
>
> Lets see here.  Power Poles come in all the standard color codes plus a
> non standard pink.
>
> So:  12 volt cables are brn-red
> 5 volt cables are pink-grn
>  24 volt cables are red-yel
>  48 volt cables are red-gry
>
> Works for me
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K2TK
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[David Cutter]

Remove the connector and solder the wires directly; this also reduces IR 
loss.

David
G3UNA

>
> After watching the PP connectors on my  K3 wiggle around at Field Day, I
> have to question again why Elecraft chose these  toads-in-a-tuxedo for a
> connector.  PP are way over-rated.  The only  strain relief they provide 
> is when
> they come apart - which is often.  I  suppose we could call that defect an
> "undocumented feature."   A  simple molex would have been fine and a whole
> lot more secure.
>
> But not to start a flame war over PPs, I'll stay positive.  Anyone  have
> any ideas on how to better secure the PP in the K3?  Mine wiggles and  I 
> am
> thinking about some hot glue to the circuit board.
>
> Buck
> k4ia K3 #101
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 & QSK

[Mike]

When I send CW from the computer, I don't hear anything until the string 
of characters is finished. I think that's due to my closing the PTT by 
turning on DTR at the beginning and turning it off at the end, ie. DTR 
on, send NF4L, DTR off. Am I correct?

Seems to work with VOX tho.


73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Howard K2HK]

Of course now that the cows have left I tagged the various voltages with 
colored tape. An easy fix. But still need ideas for getting the K3 up again 
aside from sending it to Elecraft.
Howard..K2HK






> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:35:59 -0400
> From: k...@att.net
> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles  and my bad,very bad
> 
> MY OOPS TOO!!
> 
> The 48 volt ones here are yel-gry here
> 
> Of  course I spotted that right after hitting send in spite of reading it.
> 
> 
> 73,
> Bob
> K2TK
> 
> On 6/28/2010 12:19 PM, Bob wrote:
> > OOPS!!
> >
> > Lets see here.  Power Poles come in all the standard color codes plus a
> > non standard pink.
> >
> > So:  12 volt cables are brn-red
> > 5 volt cables are pink-grn
> >  24 volt cables are red-yel
> >  48 volt cables are red-gry
> >
> > Works for me
> >
> > 73,
> > Bob
> > K2TK
> >
> >
> >
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Jeff KB2M]

 Much easier than that. Just plug the hot red side into only the black side
on a grounded piece of equipment. Very easy to do when plugging in a PP
under your vehicle's dash at night. I thought it would have been much better
to NOT try and save a penny or so a connector by designing the red and black
connectors to be made from the same mold. But, I also use APP's almost
exclusively...
 73 Jeff kb2m


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Grant Youngman
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
To: Elecraft Email
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

I'm actually not entirely sure how one reverses polarity with a properly
assembled PP connector.  I suppose one could hammer them together in the
wrong orientation?  :-)






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Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Alexandr Kobranov]

Just an idea (used in my config) - 24V PP terminal is with larger "pitch" by
using dummy spacer between + and - PP terminals. Such "spacer" is as a
standard PP connector but shorter and without contact. This seems - to me -
as the only way how to eliminate mistake when just two voltages used.

73!
Lexa, ok1dst

2010/6/28 Howard K2HK 

>
> Of course now that the cows have left I tagged the various voltages with
> colored tape. An easy fix. But still need ideas for getting the K3 up again
> aside from sending it to Elecraft.
> Howard..K2HK
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:35:59 -0400
> > From: k...@att.net
> > CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles  and my bad,very bad
> >
> > MY OOPS TOO!!
> >
> > The 48 volt ones here are yel-gry here
> >
> > Of  course I spotted that right after hitting send in spite of reading
> it.
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Bob
> > K2TK
> >
> > On 6/28/2010 12:19 PM, Bob wrote:
> > > OOPS!!
> > >
> > > Lets see here.  Power Poles come in all the standard color codes plus a
> > > non standard pink.
> > >
> > > So:  12 volt cables are brn-red
> > > 5 volt cables are pink-grn
> > >  24 volt cables are red-yel
> > >  48 volt cables are red-gry
> > >
> > > Works for me
> > >
> > > 73,
> > > Bob
> > > K2TK
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > __
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> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
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[Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

[Bill K9YEQ]

Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main band on 75,
the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RX.  Or do I not need the RX on
to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this configuration?

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules

 

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[Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

[Bill K9YEQ]

Let me add:  Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main
band on 75,
the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RXant.  Or do I not need the RX
ant on
to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this configuration?

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3..Power Poles and my bad,very bad

[Jim Rhodes]

When I use PP's for any other voltage or reason the 12V power, I put the 
together in a different configuration. If the pair are at right angles 
to on another they won't go together with the standard formation.

Jim K0XU
On 6/28/2010 10:35 AM, Howard K2HK wrote:
> I had a very senior moment yesterday related to PowerPoles and could use some 
> help. The power supply that my K3 is powered by has an auxiliary cigar 
> lighter  outlet. In the midst of a project (too late at night)I plugged that 
> cable into a similiar PowerPole which turned out to be the cable from another 
>  P/S which happens to be a 24 VDC supply.The K3 went dead in a blink. Does 
> not restart. First, any suggestion of where to start looking? Second, 
> although this never happened to me before  it is something to be aware of if 
> you have several terminals dangling at your desk. Embarrassing situation!
>
> Howard..K2HK
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   
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[Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

[Alan, K6IV]

I'm running MCU 4.03/DSP 2.60 and I noticed audio drop outs when listening to
2m FM.  The audio drop outs appear to occur on accented syllables and may
coincide with the FM deviation peak.  I've transmitted to the K3 using a
small handheld and noticed audio drop outs when speaking loudly into the
transmitted audio.

Any ideas on how to fix this?  The receiver was barely useable last night
when trying to listen to a local FM repeater net.

76s, K6IV
Alan 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/FM-Demod-Problem-with-K3-K144XV-tp5231923p5231923.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Another (stupid) Clock Question

[clayj]

So - I had my new K3 out at our Field Day (W7S - Sammamish ARES/RACES
Group) operation; and it worked great!   I'm still getting used to all the
filters and features; but it was definitely a step above any other rig
there, INCLUDING a Flex-3000.  The "HI RFI" mod definetly saved my rig on
more than one occasion when someone started using a 40M dipole that was
only 10' feet separated from the 15M dipole that I was using.

I did have one "interesting" issue - I let a number of folks use the rig,
with no apparent ill effects; EXCEPT, the clock (when displayed in VFO B)
is now displaying on the DATE and not the time.   I read through the
owners manual, and CANNOT seem to figure out how to change that back.

Also - the manual implies that the "Display" button will "cycle" through
several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
either the Frequency or Clock display.

Can someone assist?

Thanks!

Clay
N7QNM


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Re: [Elecraft] Another (stupid) Clock Question

[Brett Howard]

When you're displaying Date or time or whatever (there are several other
things that can be shown in DISP mode).  Simply turn the VFO B knob to
change to the other values...

The K3 is VERY consistent in that if something is displayed in the top
line of text the VFO A knob adjusts it and if it is displayed in the
bottom line of text the VFO B knob adjusts that.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 10:56 -0700, cl...@nwlink.com wrote:
> So - I had my new K3 out at our Field Day (W7S - Sammamish ARES/RACES
> Group) operation; and it worked great!   I'm still getting used to all the
> filters and features; but it was definitely a step above any other rig
> there, INCLUDING a Flex-3000.  The "HI RFI" mod definetly saved my rig on
> more than one occasion when someone started using a 40M dipole that was
> only 10' feet separated from the 15M dipole that I was using.
> 
> I did have one "interesting" issue - I let a number of folks use the rig,
> with no apparent ill effects; EXCEPT, the clock (when displayed in VFO B)
> is now displaying on the DATE and not the time.   I read through the
> owners manual, and CANNOT seem to figure out how to change that back.
> 
> Also - the manual implies that the "Display" button will "cycle" through
> several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
> either the Frequency or Clock display.
> 
> Can someone assist?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Clay
> N7QNM
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Another (stupid) Clock Question

[Grant Youngman]

On Jun 28, 2010, at 12:56 PM, cl...@nwlink.com wrote:

> 
> Also - the manual implies that the "Display" button will "cycle" through
> several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
> either the Frequency or Clock display.
> 

After pressing the DISP button, use the VFO B knob to change the info that is 
displayed.

Grant/NQ5T

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Re: [Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

[Brett Howard]

How are you selecting to enable your PR6?  Are you using the DIGOUT
line?  If so you should be able to see what is going on by looking at
the DIGOUT line.

You will need the RX ant enabled in order to use the PR6.  The PR6 is
inserted into your RX_ANT loop when its enabled.  Otherwise it simply
passes those through to the BNC's on the other side.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:01 -0500, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
> Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main band on 75,
> the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RX.  Or do I not need the RX on
> to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this configuration?
> 
>  
> 
> Bill
> 
> K9YEQ
> 
> K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules
> 
>  
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & QSK

[Brett Howard]

Yes this is correct as long as PTT is applied you won't switch back into
RX mode between elements.  Its working on VOX is how things should go!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:22 -0400, Mike wrote:
> When I send CW from the computer, I don't hear anything until the string 
> of characters is finished. I think that's due to my closing the PTT by 
> turning on DTR at the beginning and turning it off at the end, ie. DTR 
> on, send NF4L, DTR off. Am I correct?
> 
> Seems to work with VOX tho.
> 
> 
> 73, Mike NF4L
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

It depends on how you have things configured.  It is possible that the 
80 meter LPF is in the path from the sub to the antenna.  That would be 
true if you have the sub set to share main's antenna.  If you have the 
KAT3 installed and have the sub set to use the non-active main antenna, 
then the LC combination in the tuner can suppress the signal.  See page 
37 of the manual.
Furthermore - if you have the PR6 connected between RX ANT out and RX 
ANT in, the PR6 can only be connected to the main RX, not the subRX.  
See page 39 of the manual as well as the antenna routing diagrams on 
pages 41 and 42.

The only way I know of to use the PR6 on the sub without complication is 
to connect the SubRX separate BNC antenna connector inside the K3, set 
the sub to RX ANT and put the PR6 between the sub's BNC RX ANT connector 
and your antenna.

I have neither the subRX nor the PR6 here, so I cannot be entirely 
certain, but what I have said is my impression from looking at the 
antenna connection diagrams.

73,
Don W3FPR


Bill K9YEQ wrote:
> Let me add:  Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main
> band on 75,
> the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RXant.  Or do I not need the RX
> ant on
> to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this configuration?
>
>  
>
> Bill
>
> K9YEQ
>
> K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules
>
>  
>
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & QSK

[Mike]

Thanks, Brett.

Mike

Brett Howard wrote:
> Yes this is correct as long as PTT is applied you won't switch back into
> RX mode between elements.  Its working on VOX is how things should go!
>
> ~Brett (N7MG)
>
> On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:22 -0400, Mike wrote:
>   
>> When I send CW from the computer, I don't hear anything until the string 
>> of characters is finished. I think that's due to my closing the PTT by 
>> turning on DTR at the beginning and turning it off at the end, ie. DTR 
>> on, send NF4L, DTR off. Am I correct?
>>
>> Seems to work with VOX tho.
>>
>>
>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>
>> __
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>
>
>
>   


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Tom W8JI]

That's never safe.

The safe thing to do is to use HV connectors that cannot physically plug 
into the LV  socket.

My 24V connectors from power sources are all physically larger than my 13.8 
v connectors.

73 Tom


- Original Message - 
From: "Eugene Balinski" 
To: "Grant Youngman" ; "Elecraft Email" 

Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...


> One method to avoid confusion is to use different color
> power poles for different supply voltagesred-black for
> 13.5V,   green-black for 24V,  White-black for 5V, etc
>
> Many sites sell the various color options.
>
> 73
> K1NR
>
> K2 SN 6k...
>
>
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:48:20 -0500
> Grant Youngman  wrote:
>> That was the point.
>>
>> The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power
>> pole connector, put it together properly,  and LABEL the
>> darn thing to avoid disasters like plugging a 24v supply
>> into a 12v radio?  :-)
>>
>> Grant/NQ5T
>>
>>
>> On Jun 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > - Original Message - From: "Grant Youngman"
>> 
>> > To: "Elecraft Email" 
>> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:29 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
>> >> It would also be simple enough for the manufacturers
>> to solve the polarity problem by using a bridge rectifier
>> at the power input, although that has a definite downside
>> as well.
>> >>
>> >
>> > It sure does have a downside. The 1.4 volts drop would
>> seriously hurt the maximum low-distortion power output.
>> 13.8 volts is bad enough for clean SSB at the 100 watt
>> level.
>>
>>
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[Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Joe Vrabel]

Hello:

I've done some research on this reflector but I'm still a bit confused.  I'm
planning on purchasing a Laptop and I'm a bit concerned about being able to
interface the computer with no serial port with my K2.  I am presently
running HRD which works well with my shack computer with a serial port.  Are
there any plug and play adapters for this which are safe??  I do not want to
fry anything in a perfectly working K2. Thanks to all for any help. 73 Joe
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-and-USB-to-Serial-for-Radio-Control-tp5232156p5232156.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[WILLIS COOKE]

I never heard of anyone frying any hardware with a USB adapter Joe.  If you are 
connecting to Vista or Win 7 computers, you may have trouble accessing all the 
features, but I don't think you will fry anything.  If you are buying an 
adapter try to get one that uses the FTDI chip set rather than the Prolific 
chip set.  It is difficult to find out which chip set is used, but some of the 
on line vendors will tell you if they are using FTDI.  The ones using Prolific 
will try to hide it.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Joe Vrabel 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 2:00:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control


Hello:

I've done some research on this reflector but I'm still a bit confused.  I'm
planning on purchasing a Laptop and I'm a bit concerned about being able to
interface the computer with no serial port with my K2.  I am presently
running HRD which works well with my shack computer with a serial port.  Are
there any plug and play adapters for this which are safe??  I do not want to
fry anything in a perfectly working K2. Thanks to all for any help. 73 Joe
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-and-USB-to-Serial-for-Radio-Control-tp5232156p5232156.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Jim Wiley]

Joe -


All else being equal, and I am sure that is not true , the main 
thing to remember is to be sure and NOT use a standard serial cable with 
the K2.  The K2's serial adapter does NOT use standard wiring!  You will 
need to build up a cable that is  wired for the task.   The instructions 
for the KIO2 interface board explain this is great detail.


You can probably use an off-the-shelf  USB to serial converter to handle 
the data stream going each way, but you will still need to make a 
special cable to interconnect the converter and the K2.   DO NOT plug 
the USB to Serial adapter into the K2's I/O port directly!


- Jim, KL7CC
K2 - 3995


Joe Vrabel wrote:
> Hello:
>
> I've done some research on this reflector but I'm still a bit confused.  I'm
> planning on purchasing a Laptop and I'm a bit concerned about being able to
> interface the computer with no serial port with my K2.  I am presently
> running HRD which works well with my shack computer with a serial port.  Are
> there any plug and play adapters for this which are safe??  I do not want to
> fry anything in a perfectly working K2. Thanks to all for any help. 73 Joe
>   
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[Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[Lyle Johnson]

  I think you'll find this interesting.

Lyle

 Original Message 
Subject:[FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
Date:   Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:18:15 -0500
From:   Dr. Howard S. White 
To: flexe...@flex-radio.biz 



Ran the Flex 5000 for Field Day with 2 Flex Newbie's who were Very Experienced 
Contest Operators who regularly win major contests.

The issue quickly became the fact that it was difficult to use the Flex in a 
contest environment because the operators had difficulty with the focus of the 
keyboard in search and pounce mode.  This was not an issue when we held a 
frequency as we did not have to touch the radio.

On several occasions, they would be typing into N1MM, then changing 
frequencies, forgetting to move the focus back to N1MM so PowerSDR  abruptly 
changed the radio frequencies or bands because they typed on the wrong  
screen...and of course lost the contact  It became highly frustrating in 
the heat of battle..

I had the mouse set so that by hovering over a program it would shift focus but 
that was not really good enough in the heat of the contest where the mouse 
needs to be hovering over PowerSDR but typing needs to be into the Contest 
logger.

Bottom Line:  They concluded that the Flex was not ready for "Prime Time" 
Contesting.


I seem to recall some discussions on program focus on this reflector but it is 
impossible to search this reflector's archives..


A Few of Recommendations:


1.   There really needs to be a Contest Skin which removes about 90% of the 
controls that you never use in the contest...they could be "set it and forget 
it" in the main form and hidden during contests. You really only use 
frequency via mouse wheel, band, filters.

2.   The Contest Skin needs to integrate a contest logging program such as 
N1MM or Writelog into the Skin so that you never have to switch 
programs...ideally the logger should show inside the skin.

3.   In the alternative, remove the ability of the keyboard to interact 
with PowerSDR during contests and fix its focus onto the Contest Logger while 
fixing the focus of the mouse wheel on frequency changing.

4.   Or in the alternative, use a second computer for the contest logger... 
really ugly solution...

5.   There needs to be a detailed Knowledge Base Article on Focus for 
contesting.

One other suggestion... move this reflector to a reflector such as Yahoo Groups 
which has a searchable archive...so you won't continually have people asking 
the same questions all the time.
__
Howard S. White Ph.D. P. Eng., VE3GFW/K6  ex-AE6SM  KY6LA
Website: www.ky6la.com
"No Good Deed Goes Unpunished"
"Ham Antennas Save Lives - Katrina, 2003&  2007 San Diego Fires, 911"

___
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flexe...@flex-radio.biz
http://mail.flex-radio.biz/mailman/listinfo/flexedge_flex-radio.biz
This is the FlexRadio Systems e-mail Reflector called FlexEdge.  It is used for 
posting topics related to SDR software development and experimentalist who are 
using alpha and beta versions of the software.


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[Brett Howard]

I actually had a similar experience however our guys were using the K3
an LP-PAN and PowerSDR I/F.  They'd go to enter the callsign and the
number of the call would send you off to that frequency.  Not to
mention that we were in a white automotive tent which made it quite
bright inside there and it was tough to see the mouse cursor for some
of the ops.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Lyle Johnson  wrote:
>  I think you'll find this interesting.
>
> Lyle
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject:        [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
> Date:   Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:18:15 -0500
> From:   Dr. Howard S. White 
> To:     flexe...@flex-radio.biz 
>
>
>
> Ran the Flex 5000 for Field Day with 2 Flex Newbie's who were Very 
> Experienced Contest Operators who regularly win major contests.
>
> The issue quickly became the fact that it was difficult to use the Flex in a 
> contest environment because the operators had difficulty with the focus of 
> the keyboard in search and pounce mode.  This was not an issue when we held a 
> frequency as we did not have to touch the radio.
>
> On several occasions, they would be typing into N1MM, then changing 
> frequencies, forgetting to move the focus back to N1MM so PowerSDR  abruptly 
> changed the radio frequencies or bands because they typed on the wrong  
> screen...and of course lost the contact  It became highly frustrating in 
> the heat of battle..
>
> I had the mouse set so that by hovering over a program it would shift focus 
> but that was not really good enough in the heat of the contest where the 
> mouse needs to be hovering over PowerSDR but typing needs to be into the 
> Contest logger.
>
> Bottom Line:      They concluded that the Flex was not ready for "Prime Time" 
> Contesting.
>
>
> I seem to recall some discussions on program focus on this reflector but it 
> is impossible to search this reflector's archives..
>
>
> A Few of Recommendations:
>
>
> 1.       There really needs to be a Contest Skin which removes about 90% of 
> the controls that you never use in the contest...they could be "set it and 
> forget it" in the main form and hidden during contests. You really only 
> use frequency via mouse wheel, band, filters.
>
> 2.       The Contest Skin needs to integrate a contest logging program such 
> as N1MM or Writelog into the Skin so that you never have to switch 
> programs...ideally the logger should show inside the skin.
>
> 3.       In the alternative, remove the ability of the keyboard to interact 
> with PowerSDR during contests and fix its focus onto the Contest Logger while 
> fixing the focus of the mouse wheel on frequency changing.
>
> 4.       Or in the alternative, use a second computer for the contest 
> logger... really ugly solution...
>
> 5.       There needs to be a detailed Knowledge Base Article on Focus for 
> contesting.
>
> One other suggestion... move this reflector to a reflector such as Yahoo 
> Groups which has a searchable archive...so you won't continually have people 
> asking the same questions all the time.
> __
> Howard S. White Ph.D. P. Eng., VE3GFW/K6  ex-AE6SM  KY6LA
> Website: www.ky6la.com
> "No Good Deed Goes Unpunished"
> "Ham Antennas Save Lives - Katrina, 2003&  2007 San Diego Fires, 911"
>
> ___
> Flexedge mailing list
> flexe...@flex-radio.biz
> http://mail.flex-radio.biz/mailman/listinfo/flexedge_flex-radio.biz
> This is the FlexRadio Systems e-mail Reflector called FlexEdge.  It is used 
> for posting topics related to SDR software development and experimentalist 
> who are using alpha and beta versions of the software.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Edward R Cole]

I had the experience that my West Mountain assembled PP cable pulled 
loose from the crimped connection when I tripped over it (yeah 
extreme situation).  I could not figure out how to extract the pin to 
repair it.  I bought three pre-made cables when I got a specially 
made power cable for my FT-817 that uses a very tiny power connector 
that "really" is not tolerant of stressing.  One was for connection 
in the shack and the other in my pickup.  The third was used with the 
K3 until the trip mishap.  Its now in the repair bin.  I made up a PP 
cable to replace the broken one using the 15A pins which should be 
adequate for the K3/10.

The PP that I made up myself I soldered vs.crimping with no 
failures.  I noted the lack of pins and someone told me they slide 
together and I have found the friction adequate.  I'll try the Q-tip 
"pin", if needed.  But there is no stress relief and the connection 
takes all the mechanical stress on the wires, directly.

Jury is out on PP connectors in my mind, but the ham community 
(ARRL/ARES) seems to really be pushing them for a nation-wide Emcomm standard.

Most of my station's control/dc wiring is interconnected using crimp 
connectors and barrier terminal strips.  My new SO2R control panel 
uses sub-D9 and sub-D25 connectors, with a few RCA-phono connectors 
for often disconnected lines.  (I will post a webpage with diagrams 
and photos, soon)

73, Ed - KL7UW

--

Message: 18
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 09:03:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: k...@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

After watching the PP connectors on my K3 wiggle around at Field  Day, I
have to question again why Elecraft chose these toads-in-a-tuxedo for a
connector.  PP are way over-rated.  The only strain relief 
they  provide is when
they come apart - which is often.  I suppose we could  call that defect an
undocumented "feature."   A simple molex  would have been fine and a whole
lot more secure.

But not to start a flame war over PPs, I'll stay positive.  Anyone  have
any ideas on how to better secure the PP in the K3?  Mine wiggles and  I am
thinking about some hot glue.

Buck
k4ia K3 #101



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-600w, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-fall 2010
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[Brett Howard]

I should add though that they so loved the ability to click around on
stations just like they can with their N1MM band map that they usually
kept causing themselves the problem.  They'd swear off using PowerSDR
and said I'm just going to leave the focus on N1MM and not worry about
it anymore but they'd keep seeing something they'd want to go after
and the point/click ease was just too attractive.  Many also had
issues with the right click to go between pan mode and point/shoot
mode.

Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
the recorder...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:54 PM, Brett Howard  wrote:
> I actually had a similar experience however our guys were using the K3
> an LP-PAN and PowerSDR I/F.  They'd go to enter the callsign and the
> number of the call would send you off to that frequency.  Not to
> mention that we were in a white automotive tent which made it quite
> bright inside there and it was tough to see the mouse cursor for some
> of the ops.
>
> ~Brett (N7MG)
>
> On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Lyle Johnson  wrote:
>>  I think you'll find this interesting.
>>
>> Lyle
>>
>>  Original Message 
>> Subject:        [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
>> Date:   Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:18:15 -0500
>> From:   Dr. Howard S. White 
>> To:     flexe...@flex-radio.biz 
>>
>>
>>
>> Ran the Flex 5000 for Field Day with 2 Flex Newbie's who were Very 
>> Experienced Contest Operators who regularly win major contests.
>>
>> The issue quickly became the fact that it was difficult to use the Flex in a 
>> contest environment because the operators had difficulty with the focus of 
>> the keyboard in search and pounce mode.  This was not an issue when we held 
>> a frequency as we did not have to touch the radio.
>>
>> On several occasions, they would be typing into N1MM, then changing 
>> frequencies, forgetting to move the focus back to N1MM so PowerSDR  abruptly 
>> changed the radio frequencies or bands because they typed on the wrong  
>> screen...and of course lost the contact  It became highly frustrating in 
>> the heat of battle..
>>
>> I had the mouse set so that by hovering over a program it would shift focus 
>> but that was not really good enough in the heat of the contest where the 
>> mouse needs to be hovering over PowerSDR but typing needs to be into the 
>> Contest logger.
>>
>> Bottom Line:      They concluded that the Flex was not ready for "Prime 
>> Time" Contesting.
>>
>>
>> I seem to recall some discussions on program focus on this reflector but it 
>> is impossible to search this reflector's archives..
>>
>>
>> A Few of Recommendations:
>>
>>
>> 1.       There really needs to be a Contest Skin which removes about 90% of 
>> the controls that you never use in the contest...they could be "set it and 
>> forget it" in the main form and hidden during contests. You really only 
>> use frequency via mouse wheel, band, filters.
>>
>> 2.       The Contest Skin needs to integrate a contest logging program such 
>> as N1MM or Writelog into the Skin so that you never have to switch 
>> programs...ideally the logger should show inside the skin.
>>
>> 3.       In the alternative, remove the ability of the keyboard to interact 
>> with PowerSDR during contests and fix its focus onto the Contest Logger 
>> while fixing the focus of the mouse wheel on frequency changing.
>>
>> 4.       Or in the alternative, use a second computer for the contest 
>> logger... really ugly solution...
>>
>> 5.       There needs to be a detailed Knowledge Base Article on Focus for 
>> contesting.
>>
>> One other suggestion... move this reflector to a reflector such as Yahoo 
>> Groups which has a searchable archive...so you won't continually have people 
>> asking the same questions all the time.
>> __
>> Howard S. White Ph.D. P. Eng., VE3GFW/K6  ex-AE6SM  KY6LA
>> Website: www.ky6la.com
>> "No Good Deed Goes Unpunished"
>> "Ham Antennas Save Lives - Katrina, 2003&  2007 San Diego Fires, 911"
>>
>> ___
>> Flexedge mailing list
>> flexe...@flex-radio.biz
>> http://mail.flex-radio.biz/mailman/listinfo/flexedge_flex-radio.biz
>> This is the FlexRadio Systems e-mail Reflector called FlexEdge.  It is used 
>> for posting topics related to SDR software development and experimentalist 
>> who are using alpha and beta versions of the software.
>>
>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing 

Re: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Mike Harris]

Hi Joe,

There are some options.  A vanilla USB > RS232 adapter but as 
already mentioned don't connect it directly to the K2 AUX I/O or 
damage can result to the K2.  A short interface cable between the 
adapter and the K2 is required.

I have used my microHAM CW Keyer with CAT cable to do the PC keying 
and CAT control.  Indeed, microHAM do a USB interface with 
appropriate cable which though it costs more than a regular PC USB 
to RS232 adapter was built for the job.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Vrabel" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 3:00 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control


>
> Hello:
>
> I've done some research on this reflector but I'm still a bit 
> confused.  I'm
> planning on purchasing a Laptop and I'm a bit concerned about 
> being able to
> interface the computer with no serial port with my K2.  I am 
> presently
> running HRD which works well with my shack computer with a serial 
> port.  Are
> there any plug and play adapters for this which are safe??  I do 
> not want to
> fry anything in a perfectly working K2. Thanks to all for any 
> help. 73 Joe

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[Elecraft] K3 Utility Save / Restore Configuration Question

[Dave Zeph]

With multiple K3's, is it possible to use a perform a "RESTORE K3
CONFIGURATION" using a SINGLE CONFIGURATION File from just ONE of the K3's??

Reason I ask is that I note the Configuration File Name, and the File Itself
contains the K3 Serial Number of the K3 from which it was originally saved.


Is it necessary to alter the file name and file contents to use the SERIAL
NUMBER of the Target K3???


Thanks and 73 --- Dave, W9ZRX


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Don Wilhelm]

Joe,

!!!DO NOT PLUG ANY USB ADAPTER DIRECTLY INTO THE K2 AUX I/O!!!
Plug the USB adapter into the cable that you are currently using - that 
is safe.

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe Vrabel wrote:
> Hello:
>
> I've done some research on this reflector but I'm still a bit confused.  I'm
> planning on purchasing a Laptop and I'm a bit concerned about being able to
> interface the computer with no serial port with my K2.  I am presently
> running HRD which works well with my shack computer with a serial port.  Are
> there any plug and play adapters for this which are safe??  I do not want to
> fry anything in a perfectly working K2. Thanks to all for any help. 73 Joe
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[Lyle Johnson]

  Oops!

My error, I never intended to copy this to the Elecraft reflector.

My sincere apologies.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim Wiley wrote:
> Joe -
>
>
> All else being equal, and I am sure that is not true , the main 
> thing to remember is to be sure and NOT use a standard serial cable with 
> the K2.  The K2's serial adapter does NOT use standard wiring!  You will 
> need to build up a cable that is  wired for the task.   The instructions 
> for the KIO2 interface board explain this is great detail.
>   
>
The best way I know of to keep from getting confused is to stop thinking 
of (and referring to) the K2 AUX I/O connector as a "serial port" or 
anything else "serial" related.  Think of it as a K2 connector that just 
happens to have two signal lines which work as RS-232 signals - the rest 
of the pins on the connector are used for controlling external Elecraft 
gear, such as the KRC2, the KAT100 and/or the XV series of transverters.
If you begin thinking (and saying) this over and over again, you are 
unlikely to make a mistake and fry the K2.

73,
Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...

[Edward R Cole]

Labeling is a good idea, and probably not become a potential for an 
error if your station is static (you assemble it and never make a 
change).  But someone like me that is always 
building/modifying/rearranging the hookups, labels (alone) will not 
prevent an "accident".  I run my 28v power to a separate barrier 
terminal strip from the 12v distribution, and make it a 100% process 
to always measure the voltage of a new connection with a vtvm before 
connecting to the equipment.  Same rule for making new cables (check 
polarity and continuity before use).

But realizing that I am "human" I used distinctly different 
connectors for running HV and other level voltages.  Never use a RF 
connector for dc.  So my 3.6 kV PS cannot physically be connected to 
the wrong connector (they look like BNC but are MHV and will not 
mate).  Lots of caveats in construction philosophy!

Another thing I am doing these days is making connection diagrams and 
schematics for everything.  I keep them in a master drawing 3-ring 
notebook so always handy for a moments reference if I have a senior 
moment and do not recall exactly how it is supposed to go.  Very 
handy in troubleshooting when stuff doesn't work.  I operate 16-bands 
600m-3cm, 17-antennas, three towers, and one dish (If I have counted 
correctly).  I have 26 coax connections to outside the 
shack.  Keeping track is not trivial ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW

--

Message: 37
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:48:20 -0500
From: Grant Youngman 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles...
To: Elecraft Email 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

That was the point.

The other point was -- How hard is it to build a power pole 
connector, put it together properly,  and LABEL the darn thing to 
avoid disasters like plugging a 24v supply into a 12v radio?  :-)

Grant/NQ5T



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-600w, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-fall 2010
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Save / Restore Configuration Question

[Mark Bayern]

I'm just guessing, but I would expect the saved config file to include
filters, filter offsets, and various calibration info that is specific
to the individual K3.

Mark  AD5SS



On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 3:01 PM, Dave Zeph  wrote:
> With multiple K3's, is it possible to use a perform a "RESTORE K3
> CONFIGURATION" using a SINGLE CONFIGURATION File from just ONE of the K3's??
>
> Reason I ask is that I note the Configuration File Name, and the File Itself
> contains the K3 Serial Number of the K3 from which it was originally saved.
>
>
> Is it necessary to alter the file name and file contents to use the SERIAL
> NUMBER of the Target K3???
>
>
> Thanks and 73 --- Dave, W9ZRX
>
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[Elecraft] K2 and USB to Serial for Radio Control

[Joe Vrabel]

Wow . . .  Thanks for all the replys in such a short time.  I now feel
comfortable in trying some of the USB to Serial cables. I have the required
Elecraft cable in place on my computer in the shack, and in fact have the
extra components to make up a second cable.  I'll make sure that the USB to
Serial adapter will be plugged into the computer end.  Thanks to all that
replied. 73: de KD2JC/Joe

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Re: [Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

[Ken Kopp]

Could you have the squelch set too "tight"?  That
would result in the symptoms you describe and
isn't unique to the K3.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


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[Elecraft] [K3] Low audio output after AF output mod

[Kari Sillanmaki]

Hello group,

Instructions for the AF output mod specify that:
"This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately 
before 01/12/09 containing either 
a Revision "XB" or Revision "A" KIO3 board."

I have a K3 #310 with KIO3A board Revision XD.
The exact markings on the KIO main board read:
KIO3A MAIN
Rev XD
(c) 2007
ELECRAFT

The board did not have the 470R resistors installed,
so I installed them according to the instructions on 
the Elecraft webpage.

Now after the mod, audio output from the 
rear-panel speaker-jack is very low. 
I have to cranck up the AF volume pot up 
to about 2 o'clock in order to hear anything.

So I'm wondering if this mod really is relevant
for the KIO I'm having?
Or perhaps I have missed something?

Any ideas, anyone?

BR,
Kari
oh2gqc




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Re: [Elecraft] The K2 at Field Day

[L. T. Stem]

130 CW Q's and never missed a lick. Even closed up shop after 11:00 PM on 
Saturday evening and opened up again about 8:00 AM on Sunday.

WB5LVI was QRO with about 80 watts. We had a grand time. 

73,  Skip  WB4DAD  (this years chief CW op.)




  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Save / Restore Configuration Question

[Dick Dievendorff]

No. Some of what is saved is rig-specific VCO calibration data 

Dick, K6KR

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 28, 2010, at 12:01 PM, "Dave Zeph"  wrote:

> With multiple K3's, is it possible to use a perform a "RESTORE K3
> CONFIGURATION" using a SINGLE CONFIGURATION File from just ONE of the K3's??
> 
> Reason I ask is that I note the Configuration File Name, and the File Itself
> contains the K3 Serial Number of the K3 from which it was originally saved.
> 
> 
> Is it necessary to alter the file name and file contents to use the SERIAL
> NUMBER of the Target K3???
> 
> 
> Thanks and 73 --- Dave, W9ZRX
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with Expert 1K-FA, RS232 connections question?

[GLEN BROWN]

I use an Expert with my K3 and made up a cable with both serial and band
data connections.  I ended up using only the band data, with the Expert set
to expect a Yaesu connection.  When you switch bands, the amp selects the
appropriate antenna(s).  The first time you key the amp sees the freq and
sets the tuner without any delay at all.

Otherwise the amp takes up the only serial port available from the K3 and it
is limited to 9600 baud.

I am totally happy with this setup.

73,
Glen W6GJB



On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 6:46 AM, Igor Sokolov  wrote:

> I use CAT data from my K3 to control 1k-FA. I think CAT control has a
> distinct advantage in case of 1K-FA because the internal antenna tuner in
> Expert usually has several settings per band. That is especially important
> on wide bands like 160 or 80 meters. With CAT control these tuner settings
> are correctly chosen in RX mode. That improves receiving as well as avoids
> tuner relays switching at the beginning of the transmission.
>
> 73, Igor UA9CDC
>
>
>
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> > If you are using computer control of the K3, you will probably
> > have better results if you use the DB15HD connection (BCD Band
> > Data) to control the Expert 1K-FA than trying to parallel the
> > RS-232 (CAT) connections.  With the "Band Data" connection the
> > 1K-FA operates as if it were connected to a Yaesu transceiver.
> >
> > I will send you separately an old drawing by the former Expert
> > distributor showing both (Band Data and CAT) connections.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> >... Joe, W4TV
> >
> > On 6/27/2010 8:22 AM, GD0TEP wrote:
> >> Hello to the group again,
> >>
> >> I want to connect my K3 to my 1K-FA amplifier, the amplifier manual
> >> isn't to clear (to me anyway) on the connections that need to be
> >> used.
> >>
> >> On the amplifier 15pin plug, I use pins 1, 9&  14, yes it's that
> >> simple.
> >>
> >> On the K3 RS232 I connect the amplifier pin 1 to K3 pin 3 (I think, I
> >> may have these two crossed) On the K3 RS232 I connect the amplifier
> >> pin 9 to K3 pin 2 (I think, I may have these two crossed)
> >>
> >> And
> >>
> >> On the K3 RS232 I connect the amplifier pin 9 to K3 pin 5 as ground
> >>
> >> Within the K3 RS232 I need to link the RST and CTS together, well RTS
> >> is pin 7 on the K3, but what pin is the CTS
> >>
> >> Advice would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> 73, Andy http://gd0tep.com
> >>
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Grant Youngman]

On Jun 28, 2010, at 2:57 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

> I had the experience that my West Mountain assembled PP cable pulled 
> loose from the crimped connection when I tripped over it (yeah 
> extreme situation). 

Why were you surprised?  Knock your fridge over and see what gives way first, 
and hope it isn't the screwed-in water line to the ice maker :-)

> I could not figure out how to extract the pin to 
> repair it.  

Cut it off at the connector and install a new connector.  It is possible to get 
the pins out, but not worth the effort.

> 
> The PP that I made up myself I soldered vs.crimping with no 
> failures.  I noted the lack of pins and someone told me they slide 
> together

This is part of the user instructions for Power Poles - they slide together  
There's a reason there are instructions :-)

>  I'll try the Q-tip 
> "pin", if needed.  

There is no "pin" for a 2-pole connector that I'm aware of.  If you stick a 
Q-tip or a metal pin in the hole between two connectors and the connectors come 
apart, the stick or pin just falls out since it can't possibly hold them 
together.   Use super glue.  Or wrap them with a tie wrap.

> But there is no stress relief and the connection 
> takes all the mechanical stress on the wires, 

That's why there is a CRIMP tool, although solder will hold well enough i 
suppose, maybe, but I wouldn't trust it . I crimp them, and THEN flow solder 
into them.  You (anyone) could sit there and wiggle them enough to break the 
wires.  I don't wiggle or dodge and burn my DC connectors all that often.  But 
you can do that to connector with a strain relief just as well.   Just don't 
trip over them -- anything can be ripped out and broken. I have this vision of 
hams sitting in a long winded QSO or calling CW DX over and over and over ...  
running out of productive things to do, fiddling with their PP's to see if they 
can make them break.  Of course you can break them.

I have many 12VDC circuits on power poles.  I have never had a failure, never 
had wires break, and never plugged 3000VDC into the back of my K3 (but I don't 
have 3Kv on power poles either).   Ok -- so the power lead to my K3 is #8 
copper and short (by design) and pulls out when I slide the radio too far 
forward on the desk.  But I don't do that to get the radio closer and "hear 
better" or whatever :-)

Grant/NQ5T



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[Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles

[David Guernsey]

I use separate RigRunners for different voltages.  I painted fluorescent 
stripes of different colors on the RigRunners and on the cables for eacfh one.

 73s de Dave KJ6CBS



  
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[Elecraft] Help with ideal SSB contest settings

[George A. Thornton]

I am relatively new to the K3 and completely green on contesting.

 

My K3 is new this year and recently returned from the factory to correct
some problems that occurred during installation of the SubRx.  

 

During Field Day we were operating voice on 20 meters using a 6 element
monoband Yagi on a 30 ft. tower over a bluff, located in Western
Washington.  

 

We had both my K3 and an Icom Pro 3 as choices for the operators.   We
heard fine on the K3 but the conclusion was reached early that the K3
was not effective at breaking the Field Day pileups.  They shifted to
the Pro3, which was equipped with a high end Heil dual element mic, I
think the HM-10.  They reported much better results.

 

I went back and checked the K3 and found the mic settings were out of
adjustment.  I corrected the mic gain according to the manual
instructions and set a small amount of compression, less than ten
percent.  I then locked the settings so no one could mess with them.
At that point the band was dead, and I don't have enough information to
tell if the problem was solved or not.I do intend to check this out
further with someone local who is familiar with the K3 on voice.  

 

What I am looking for is suggestions for configuring the Tx on SSB for
maximum effectiveness in crowded conditions.

 

I am currently using the Heil MD-2 desk mic that I got from Elecraft
some years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Low audio output after AF output mod

[Don Wilhelm]

Kari,

I would hesitate to install a mod that is specified for a Revision XB or 
Revision A board on a Revision XD board without specific information 
that the mod was also intended for that board.

I would suggest removing the added resistors and ask the folks at 
K3support whether the change has been added to the Revision XD board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Kari Sillanmaki wrote:
> Hello group,
>
> Instructions for the AF output mod specify that:
> "This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately 
> before 01/12/09 containing either 
> a Revision "XB" or Revision "A" KIO3 board."
>
> I have a K3 #310 with KIO3A board Revision XD.
> The exact markings on the KIO main board read:
> KIO3A MAIN
> Rev XD
> (c) 2007
> ELECRAFT
>
> The board did not have the 470R resistors installed,
> so I installed them according to the instructions on 
> the Elecraft webpage.
>
> Now after the mod, audio output from the 
> rear-panel speaker-jack is very low. 
> I have to cranck up the AF volume pot up 
> to about 2 o'clock in order to hear anything.
>
> So I'm wondering if this mod really is relevant
> for the KIO I'm having?
> Or perhaps I have missed something?
>
> Any ideas, anyone?
>
>
>   
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[Elecraft] Low headphone audio level and a question to Wayne

[Robert Kirkland]

We know that to obtain the maximum audio level between two devices we must 
match the impedances between them. The impedance of mono and stereo headsets 
vary widely a good way to tell is if you have to rotate the volume control a 
lot to get a small increase in volume there is a mismatch.The questions are: 
What are the headphone output impedances of the front panel and the rear 
panel jacks and do they vary between modes?.
Bob,
w5pvr 

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Re: [Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

[Alan, K6IV]

Ken,

I tried adjusting the squelch, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

Wayne suggested that I contact Elecraft directly.  Mark, AD5SS, suggested to
try k3supp...@elecraft.com for official elecraft support in the future.

Sorry to bother the mailing list with what is probably a one off problem.

73s,
Alan K6IV
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Re: [Elecraft] Low headphone audio level and a question to Wayne

[Don Wilhelm]

Robert,

It is a misconception that audio devices must be impedance matched.  
Audio transducers respond to voltage and current which equates to 
power.  Normally, audio output drivers are designed as low impedance 
sources.  That means that they will produce more power into a low 
impedance load than into a high impedance load.
A parallel example is the power receptacles in your home.  The utility 
company strives to provide a very low impedance source (they would like 
it to be zero).  Here in the US, the voltage is typically 115 volts - a 
low impedance device plugged into the power receptacle will draw a lot 
of current and power, but a higher impedance device will draw lesser 
current (and power).

The major difference between my power line example and an audio power 
amplifier is that the maximum voltage available is a less than the 
voltage fed to the audio amp output stage.  How much less depends on the 
device used - and the maximum available current also depends on the 
device specs.

I do not have the specific data on the voltage and available current for 
the K3 connections.
I also do not understand why some consider it a problem if the AF Gain 
control has to be advanced to even the 5 o'clock position to produce 
adequate audio for a given application.  As long as the audio output 
driver is not driven into distortion, that condition is perfectly OK.  
There is no rule that says the AF Gain control should not be operated at 
the full gain position, or anywhere below that.

Audio transducers vary considerably in sensitivity (efficiency), and the 
AF Gain control is there to make the various available transducers 
usable.  If your headphones are less sensitive than some other ones, 
just turn up the AF Gain until you have sufficient audio for your ears.

73,
Don W3FPR

Robert Kirkland wrote:
> We know that to obtain the maximum audio level between two devices we must 
> match the impedances between them. The impedance of mono and stereo headsets 
> vary widely a good way to tell is if you have to rotate the volume control a 
> lot to get a small increase in volume there is a mismatch.The questions are: 
> What are the headphone output impedances of the front panel and the rear 
> panel jacks and do they vary between modes?.
> Bob,
> w5pvr 
>
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[Elecraft] K3: Loss of speaker audio after DSP board upgrade

[Stephen Prior]

I received the upgrade DSP board today.  Swapping over the boards was very
straightforward, but on switching on the K3 I found I had no sound from the
built-in speaker (headphone audio was fine) unless I had the config option
set to run with headphones and speaker simultaneously. Therefore neither the
connection to the loudspeaker connection or the speaker itself are at fault.
No output from the rear speaker socket either.

I took it all apart and re-installed.  I could see no misalignment of
headers anywhere, nothing in fact which was in any way obviously a fault.
Put it back together again.  Problem still there.  Then I re-installed my
original DSP board (fortunately I had not been too hasty in returning it to
Elecraft!) and everything was fine.

Having assured myself that this was not a wider issue, I installed the
upgraded DSP board for the third time.  Now the speaker worked, but flexing
the DSP board slightly (with the left hand side cover removed) could make
the fault come and go.  Out came the new board again to check for dry
joints, cracked tracks, shorting metal bushes etc.  I could see nothing
wrong, although I know that hairline cracks are not easy to spot.

I put the new board back in for the fourth time and now the K3's speaker
seems to be reliable again.  I had looked at the mating of the pins, looked
to see whether there was any dirt there etc., all to no avail.  I would like
to think that I have somehow sorted the problem but have a sneaking
suspicion that it might come back to haunt me!

On the topic of the replacement board itself, I can see very little
difference between it and the Rev B board it replaced, however there is an
extra IC compared with my previous board. I was expecting a piggy-backed
board somewhere, but perhaps I have got the wrong impression from reading
this list about what has changed.  The audio is certainly fuller and easier
on the ear.


73 Stephen G4SJP

K3 #980




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Loss of speaker audio after DSP board upgrade

[K4IA]

I had the same experience and posted about it a  few weeks ago.  You must 
be very careful to fully seat the pins into the  plugs - all the way!  

A good hint is if the screw holes do not line  up perfectly when you put 
the cover back together, you probably haven't seated  the pins.  It will look 
fine to the eye but if the pins are not pushed in  to the max, you can lose 
audio.

Buck
k4ia
K3 #101

In a  message dated 6/28/2010 5:45:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
s...@sjprior.fsnet.co.uk writes:
I received the upgrade DSP board today.   Swapping over the boards was very
straightforward, but on switching on the K3  I found I had no sound from the
built-in speaker (headphone audio was fine)  unless I had the config option
set to run with headphones and speaker  simultaneously. Therefore neither 
the
connection to the loudspeaker  connection or the speaker itself are at 
fault.
No output from the rear  speaker socket either.

I took it all apart and re-installed.  I  could see no misalignment of
headers anywhere, nothing in fact which was in  any way obviously a fault.
Put it back together again.  Problem still  there.  Then I re-installed my
original DSP board (fortunately I had not  been too hasty in returning it to
Elecraft!) and everything was  fine.

Having assured myself that this was not a wider issue, I installed  the
upgraded DSP board for the third time.  Now the speaker worked, but  flexing
the DSP board slightly (with the left hand side cover removed) could  make
the fault come and go.  Out came the new board again to check for  dry
joints, cracked tracks, shorting metal bushes etc.  I could see  nothing
wrong, although I know that hairline cracks are not easy to  spot.

I put the new board back in for the fourth time and now the K3's  speaker
seems to be reliable again.  I had looked at the mating of the  pins, looked
to see whether there was any dirt there etc., all to no  avail.  I would 
like
to think that I have somehow sorted the problem but  have a sneaking
suspicion that it might come back to haunt me!

On the  topic of the replacement board itself, I can see very little
difference  between it and the Rev B board it replaced, however there is an
extra IC  compared with my previous board. I was expecting a piggy-backed
board  somewhere, but perhaps I have got the wrong impression from reading
this list  about what has changed.  The audio is certainly fuller and easier
on the  ear.


73 Stephen G4SJP

K3  #980




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Loss of speaker audio after DSP board upgrade

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

If it's still working...

Sometimes those pins get a "sheen" of something or another, and will
not make a good contact until they have been seated and reseated some
number of times.  Some people use De-oxit or the like on the pins
before insertion.

73, Guy.

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 5:45 PM, Stephen  Prior  
wrote:
> I received the upgrade DSP board today.  Swapping over the boards was very
> straightforward, but on switching on the K3 I found I had no sound from the
> built-in speaker (headphone audio was fine) unless I had the config option
> set to run with headphones and speaker simultaneously. Therefore neither the
> connection to the loudspeaker connection or the speaker itself are at fault.
> No output from the rear speaker socket either.
>
> I took it all apart and re-installed.  I could see no misalignment of
> headers anywhere, nothing in fact which was in any way obviously a fault.
> Put it back together again.  Problem still there.  Then I re-installed my
> original DSP board (fortunately I had not been too hasty in returning it to
> Elecraft!) and everything was fine.
>
> Having assured myself that this was not a wider issue, I installed the
> upgraded DSP board for the third time.  Now the speaker worked, but flexing
> the DSP board slightly (with the left hand side cover removed) could make
> the fault come and go.  Out came the new board again to check for dry
> joints, cracked tracks, shorting metal bushes etc.  I could see nothing
> wrong, although I know that hairline cracks are not easy to spot.
>
> I put the new board back in for the fourth time and now the K3's speaker
> seems to be reliable again.  I had looked at the mating of the pins, looked
> to see whether there was any dirt there etc., all to no avail.  I would like
> to think that I have somehow sorted the problem but have a sneaking
> suspicion that it might come back to haunt me!
>
> On the topic of the replacement board itself, I can see very little
> difference between it and the Rev B board it replaced, however there is an
> extra IC compared with my previous board. I was expecting a piggy-backed
> board somewhere, but perhaps I have got the wrong impression from reading
> this list about what has changed.  The audio is certainly fuller and easier
> on the ear.
>
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
>
> K3 #980
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[W6NEK]

Hi Brett,
What you describe is commensurate with the PowerSDR Display "AVG" Mode being 
enabled.  If "AVG" Mode is off, the displayed panadapter signal amplitude 
will not decrease as you tune the band.  The displayed signals are real-time 
with a display frame rate adjustable to 50 frames per second.  Just click 
the AVG Button off.

73,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" 
To: "Lyle Johnson" 
Cc: "Elecraft Group" 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?



Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
the recorder...

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

[Brett Howard]

Yea I kinda noticed that... But I felt like I was about to enter into a
seizure when its real time...

I'm not sure what would work better but two interesting things to see
would be either have the display go into real time mode during a QSY or
have the display freeze the averaged data during QSY.  I'm not as
certain about that second idea but there are maybe some slight
modifications of that that could be interesting...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 14:59 -0700, W6NEK wrote:
> Hi Brett,
> What you describe is commensurate with the PowerSDR Display "AVG" Mode being 
> enabled.  If "AVG" Mode is off, the displayed panadapter signal amplitude 
> will not decrease as you tune the band.  The displayed signals are real-time 
> with a display frame rate adjustable to 50 frames per second.  Just click 
> the AVG Button off.
> 
> 73,
> Frank - W6NEK
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Brett Howard" 
> To: "Lyle Johnson" 
> Cc: "Elecraft Group" 
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
> 
> 
> 
> Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
> the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
> out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
> the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
> faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
> remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
> but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
> the recorder...
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Low headphone audio level and a question to Wayne

[Jim Brown]

On Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:07:51 -0400, Robert Kirkland wrote:

>We know that to obtain the maximum audio level between two devices we must 
>match the impedances between them.

WRONG!  Study my tutorial on audio for ham radio in 

http://audiosytemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

>What are the headphone output impedances of the front panel and the rear 
>panel jacks 

Look at the schematic diagrams, which are on the website. It's obvious. 

>and do they vary between modes?

No. 

73, Jim Brown K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Low audio output after AF output mod

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Kari,

The usual interpretation for the instructions you quoted has an
implied ONLY.  Do the mod for XB or A  -ONLY- , nothing else.
Circuits in later boards may contain the 470 or simply have different
circuits.

73, Guy.

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 4:17 PM, Kari Sillanmaki  wrote:
>
> Hello group,
>
> Instructions for the AF output mod specify that:
> "This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately
> before 01/12/09 containing either
> a Revision "XB" or Revision "A" KIO3 board."
>
> I have a K3 #310 with KIO3A board Revision XD.
> The exact markings on the KIO main board read:
> KIO3A MAIN
> Rev XD
> (c) 2007
> ELECRAFT
>
> The board did not have the 470R resistors installed,
> so I installed them according to the instructions on
> the Elecraft webpage.
>
> Now after the mod, audio output from the
> rear-panel speaker-jack is very low.
> I have to cranck up the AF volume pot up
> to about 2 o'clock in order to hear anything.
>
> So I'm wondering if this mod really is relevant
> for the KIO I'm having?
> Or perhaps I have missed something?
>
> Any ideas, anyone?
>
> BR,
> Kari
> oh2gqc
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Low-audio-output-after-AF-output-mod-tp5232431p5232431.html
> Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Phil Kane]

On 6/28/2010 4:47 AM, Pete Smith wrote:

> West Mountain Radio, maker of the Rig Runner, recommends against
> using the pins in the strongest terms on its web site.  The issue
> (they say) is that the pins have a nasty habit of coming out and
> falling into places they should not go, where they can cause short
> circuits and extensive damage.  See
> . WMR says Anderson
> recommends using cyanoacrylate glu.e

Also known as "super-glue".  I've done that with several sets and the
only downside is it doesn't come apart even when you want it to so you
have to get it right the first time.


I found a better solution is to use a 2-56 screw and nut combo (I forget
the metric equivalent) that works very well.  If one is concerned about
the "fall out" use the nylon version.

If I want to keep a pair of connectors together, I put the smallest size
"tie-wrap" through both sets of holes and pull tight.  Keeps the shells
of each pair in alignment and keeps the mated pairs together.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

[Joe Planisky]

Hi Alan,

When you do finally figure out the cause, I hope you'll post your  
findings to the list.  Almost no one has "one off" problems.  If it  
happened to you, chances are good that it has happened or will happen  
to someone else, and this email reflector is one of the first places  
most folks search for guidance.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jun 28, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Alan, K6IV wrote:

>
> Ken,
>
> I tried adjusting the squelch, but it didn't seem to make any  
> difference.
>
> Wayne suggested that I contact Elecraft directly.  Mark, AD5SS,  
> suggested to
> try k3supp...@elecraft.com for official elecraft support in the  
> future.
>
> Sorry to bother the mailing list with what is probably a one off  
> problem.
>
> 73s,
> Alan K6IV
> -- 

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Re: [Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

[Don Cunningham]

Alan,
This is certainly the first place one should ask a question such as yours. 
Sometimes you learn how to fix something without having to trouble K3 
support!!  If that's not the purpose of this reflector, there's far too much 
noise to put up with on it, hi.  Ask away, and PLEASE share what you find as 
many of us have the K144XV and are still learning about it.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] Low headphone audio level and a question to Wayne

[Lyle Johnson]

>> What are the headphone output impedances of the front panel and the rear
>> panel jacks and do they vary between modes?.

The LM4811 headphone amplifier provides maximum power transfer into a 16 
ohm load (105 mW), and 70mW into a 32 ohm load.  Ifas you increase th 
eload impedance, the headphone driver becomes voltage limited.  If you 
reduce th eimpedance too much, it will become current limited.  There 
are 8.2 ohm resistors in series with left and right channel outputs of 
the LM4811 and the front panel headphone jack, and another pair of 8.2 
ohm resistors in series from the LM4811 to the rear panel headphone 
jack.  The resistors protect the headphone amplifier from short 
circuits, nd also reduce the effect of reduced output in one set of 
headphones if another set is plugged into the other headphone jack.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

[Deni]

This is Ham radio today?

LEARN,  how to terminate cables...Coax,  DC or  whatever, and just do it.

Do it right.

There are many step by step tutorials and pics, even videos on how to do 
it right.

Lots of problems will just go away!

Hard to believe any guys using Elecraft equipment have problems with 
such basic connectors.

Do  a Google search and you'll find all the info to do it right.

Maybe we should we start another thread about Knobs now?

73, Deni
F5VJC



> That's why there is a CRIMP tool, although solder will hold well enough i 
> suppose, maybe, but I wouldn't trust it . I crimp them, and THEN flow solder 
> into them.  You (anyone) could sit there and wiggle them enough to break the 
> wires.  I don't wiggle or dodge and burn my DC connectors all that often.  
> But you can do that to connector with a strain relief just as well.   Just 
> don't trip over them -- anything can be ripped out and broken. I have this 
> vision of hams sitting in a long winded QSO or calling CW DX over and over 
> and over ...  running out of productive things to do, fiddling with their 
> PP's to see if they can make them break.  Of course you can break them.
> 
> I have many 12VDC circuits on power poles.  I have never had a failure, never 
> had wires break, and never plugged 3000VDC into the back of my K3 (but I 
> don't have 3Kv on power poles either).   Ok -- so the power lead to my K3 is 
> #8 copper and short (by design) and pulls out when I slide the radio too far 
> forward on the desk.  But I don't do that to get the radio closer and "hear 
> better" or whatever :-)
> 
> Grant/NQ5T
> 
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