Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

2010-11-02 Thread Edward R. Cole
I wasn't going to reply on the coax connector issue, but how I know 
that Amphenol UHF connectors are best is from 15-years of commercial 
use in Marine Electronics.  They solder better and do not fail like 
cheaper manufacturer's.  We tried saving some money using RS 
connectors in the beginning and had some many problems that I made 
the decision to specify Amphenol brand 100% for UHF and N-type.

You do not want coax failures when you need to call the USCG for 
assistance because your boat is sinking or on fire.

So I have not done lab measurements, etc.  Only tested them in a 
demanding environment over a long time period.

For an alternative I use RF Parts connectors for special coax types 
or unusual adapters.  My 2m eme array uses 20 N-male RF Parts 
connectors for Time LMR-400 coax (larger dia. than RG-213).  They 
have been in service on the tower since 1998.  I had one bad SWR but 
that was the result of improper assembly.  The connector works good 
after reassembly.

Answer to tower climbing question:  I climb my towers for free.  The 
Tower service we hired at work charged $120/hour.  I am happy that I 
can still climb but know the years that I can continue are 
limited.  Another reason to not take shortcuts on cables and connectors.

73, Ed - KL7UW

--
Message: 36
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 14:59:22 -0700
From: Jim Brown 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

Yes, Amphenol is more expensive than cheap junk. How much does it cost
to get someone to climb a tower?  How much do you spend to go on a
DXpedition? How much time do you lose chasing intermittent problems?

How would you KNOW if they are any good or not?  Have you cut one open
to see what it looks like?  Have you done any serious power tests?  Have
you done serious loss or reflection measurements?  Have you put stress
on them to break them mechanically?

I used them in my station and nothing blew up (yet)?  That isn't a real
test, it's luck.

73, Jim K9YC



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-800*w, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-winter?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
*temp not in service 
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[Elecraft] KX1 and K1 Battery Notes

2010-11-02 Thread eric norris
Dear Gang:

I've been playing with different battery packs for my KX1 and K1 lately, and I 
thought I would share these observations--if only for a brief break in the K3 
APF action.  


KX1:

I tested my KX1 key down with various battery packs and noted the output.  This 
was into an OHR QRP wattmeter and a dummy load.  Here are the results, in 
descending order of output:

Lithium-Ion Nanophosphate pack (4.6 AH) from Buddipole        4.3W

12v Pb Gel Cell 
5AH 4.0W

Fresh Alkaline 8-cell AA 
pack   3.3W

8 C Cell NiMH in spring-clip holder 5000mAH  2.8W

Mid-life alkaline 8-cell AA pack 
spring  2.7W

8 cell AA NiMH spring Eneloop 2000mAH                                2.7W

8 cell AA NiMH 2650 mAH in spring loaded pack    2.6W

Internal 6-cell pack with Lithium AA                                            
1.5 W

K1:

I originally squeezed the 2650 mAH NiMH batteries into my K1's internal 
holder.  
But they were always dead when I got a sudden schedule opening and good weather 
for a little QRP portable.  I replaced these with the lower-capacity 2000 mAH 
Eneloop batteries that are supposed to retain 80% of their charge for an entire 
year.  Then I attached a wattmeter and dummyload to the K1, and let it call CQ 
for two hours.  At then end of this it was still putting out 5 watts and I 
stopped the test--a couple hours of QRP portable is usually all I do.

Your mileage may vary, of course.  While looking for battery articles online I 
ran across one by a regular contributor to this list, who warned of the rather 
substantial I**2R losses from spring-loaded battery holders.  Also, I just 
received the nanphosphate pack so I haven't used it in the field.  I will 
report 
back later after I have some experience with it.   

72..74

Eric WD6DBM

KX1 K1 K2/10 K3/100 P3 XV144 XV432 W2x2 nearly all mini-modules and foaming for 
a KPA500.  Email me if you are looking to buy a pristine pre-MFJ AL-1200  

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[Elecraft] N1MM w/ K3utility

2010-11-02 Thread Adriano Perazio
Hello elecrafters
 
How to open n1mm and k3 utility at same time?
W i try to do thar a msg on n1mm comes: port 2 already open.
The reason i´m trying to do that is use the F buttons set by MACROS keys
on k3 utility running on n1mm.
 
Tnx for any help.
 
PY2ADR / ZY2C Adriano 
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[Elecraft] K2: K2/100 birdie @ 3589

2010-11-02 Thread VK7JB

Hi All,

I've just finished K2/100 #6998.  After blowing the PA transistors of the
base K2 by accidentally dropping the frequency probe into the works, I've
completed the KPA100, installed it and all is working very well.  Made
several SSB contacts tonight and I couldn't be happier.  I have a great
sense of achievement :)

I'm curious about a prominent birdie, zero beat at 3589khz.  It's present,
and more prominent, with the antenna disconnected and has its origin
internally.

There are some postings about this birdie from around 2008, but I don't see
any resolution.  I can live with it, even though it's inconveniently located
right where I like to work on SSB phone.  Did anyone work out where this
comes from and whether or not there is a simple fix?  

Also, I've calibrated the K2 reference oscillator several times according to
the N6KR method.  The result is that my frequency display is 20hz off
frequency after the rig has warmed up:  eg it reads .98 for 1.00 WWV
signal.  Am I correct in understanding this is about as good I can expect
given the DAC parameters of the K2?  I can't seem to improve on it further
by repeating it.

73,

John
VK7JB
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-K2-100-birdie-3589-tp5696814p5696814.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM w/ K3utility

2010-11-02 Thread Bob Naumann
Adriano,

You do not need to use the K3 utility - you only need to set up N1MM
properly.

The info to do so is here:

http://www.dseven.org/ar/n1mm-kdvr3

73,

Bob W5OV


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Adriano Perazio
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 6:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] N1MM w/ K3utility

Hello elecrafters
 
How to open n1mm and k3 utility at same time?
W i try to do thar a msg on n1mm comes: port 2 already open.
The reason i´m trying to do that is use the F buttons set by MACROS keys
on k3 utility running on n1mm.
 
Tnx for any help.
 
PY2ADR / ZY2C Adriano 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

2010-11-02 Thread Brian Alsop
On 11/1/2010 23:36, KF4VTT wrote:
>
> Did this problem happen after you connected the amp?
>
> I ran into a similar problem.  My external Ameritron T/R relay failed and
> held the amp in transmit.  The only way I realized that the amp was stuck in
> transmit besides the diminished receive was the heat I noticed coming off
> the amp.  I could see the heat rising against the backdrop of the wall. :-)
> Thank goodness I did not have drive going to the amp that amount of time.  I
> would be buying a brand new pair of 3-500's.  I removed the external T/R
> relay and started using the internal ability of the K3 to trigger the amp.
>
> Besides checking the ideas from the other guys, check your T/R circuitry for
> your amp.
>
> 73,
> Doug
> KF4VTT
> K3 #1289
> P3 #371

Any relay in the RF chain can exhibit signal drop out on RX but work 
fine on xmit.  The problem is usually caused by corroded/burned 
contacts.  Higher transmit voltage can punch through the corrosion while 
weaker signals cannot.  This is especially true for relays which are 
outdoors.  Relay replacement is the only real solution.  Contact cleaner 
is iffy.  Filing the contacts for some relays destroys the plated 
contact material and can result in even worse performance.

Some designs use "double contacts" to almost eliminate the problem.  Use 
paralleled contacts (dpdt relay) or find a relay with "bifurcated" 
contacts.  These relays have a pole with a "tuning fork" type design. 
Each arm has a separate contact.  If one contact doesn't work, maybe the 
other will.

The same goes for corroded antenna connectors and connections to the 
antenna elements.

The real work is in finding which of the above is the culprit.

If one has a low voltage portable RF source, e.g. the XG1, and a buddy 
in the shack,  one can connect it at various points of the system and 
find where the dropout occurs.

73 de Brian/K3KO




-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3233 - Release Date: 11/02/10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

2010-11-02 Thread Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO
This failure modality, I believe, applies equally to all sorts of RF 
"connectors", which includes relay contacts as well as cable-end connectors. 
I've experienced similar failures twice over the past seven years.

In the most recent case -- and the symptoms were exactly as described in 
this thread -- it was the normally-closed (receive) contacts in the frame 
T-R relay in the amplifier. I fiddled with that relay for several weeks 
trying to get enough contact tension and/or wiping action on the "normally 
closed" side, and finally gave up and pitched it in the trash. I designed 
and built a completely new T-R system using name-brand high-speed vacuum 
relays and have never looked back. It works flawlessly, and at QSK speeds.

One final word -- "Made in China" does not necessarily mean cheap and 
shoddy, though it sometimes does. "Made in USA" does not necessarily mean 
high-quality, robust construction, though it sometimes does. It just isn't 
that simple any more. I have a pair of 3-500ZG triodes, for example, that 
came from RF Parts and were undoubtedly made in China. They are workhorse 
performers and have withstood years of abuse as well as a high-voltage 
glitch that fried a number of other components in the amplifier. On the 
other hand, I am with those who use spend the extra money for Amphenol RF 
connector parts, not because they are always made in the USA (they aren't, 
apparently), but because I trust the COMPANY to produce quality parts in 
whatever country they choose to manufacture in.

Bill W5WVO



-Original Message- 
From: hb9ari
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 06:25
To: Elecraft-forum
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

Hi  Ron,

Hi had a similar problem some months ago.
Symptoms:

Suddenly loss of sensitivity ~ -20 to -40dB or more...
Transmission was always ok.
Measurement with miniVNA always correct (at ~0dBm power).
Moving some connections remove sometimes the loss of sensitivity.
(but all soldered or crimped connections were tested as 100% ok,
no "cold" solder joint, or broken wire, etc)

After searching a lot of time, i suspected "old" silvered connectors,
plugs, etc
Changing all  connectors with non silvered ones, all is now perfect!
My explanation, accepted by other OM, is the following:
My "old" idea, (ham since 1970) was that silver oxide was conducting,
may be true, but over an (undefined for the moment...) level.
In RX mode, in the uV range, i suppose that the potential is
insufficient to break the  ultra thin sliver oxide layer.
With 0dBm or more "level", the oxide layer should be broken and
all is ok. If  i'm correct , some mechanicals relays are not specified
under some voltage levels and to commutate very low voltages,
some "special" kind of metal contacts must be used.
Since this "incident" ALL silvered plated connectors, plug, etc
are banned from the shack ! I never had problem since
i've taken this decision.

My best 73,

Rudi, HB9ARI

Ron W3ZV wrote:
> Started to play in the CQWWSSB. K3 started to exhibit intermittent loss
> of gain after a transmission. Sometimes, stomping on the foot switch
> brings it back up. Sometimes it takes a short transmission.  No real
> pattern to when it occurs. Receiver isn't totally deaf. Just way down.
> Any ideas as to where the problem might be? I'm guessing its time for
> the radio to take a trip home to the left coast.
>
> Ron W3ZV
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and K1 Battery Notes

2010-11-02 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
I have had good luck lately with AA cells from PowerGenix.
They are Nickel-Zinc, and start at 1.83 volts fully charged and are 
discharged at 1.8v.

With 6 of them in my KX1, the internal voltage was about 10.8 volts.

They don't have as good self discharge (about 10%/month) as the Lithium 
primary cells, Eneloop or LiFePO4/Nano-phosphate, nor as good energy 
density (about half at 1200mAH), but they can't be beat for internal 
batteries and voltage.

They are available through Amazon, Fry's, and other such stores and 
sites.  I bought two packs of 4, each of which came with a wall charger.

Leigh/WA5ZNU


On 11/02/2010 03:05 AM, eric norris wrote:
> Dear Gang:
>
> I've been playing with different battery packs for my KX1 and K1 lately, and I
> thought I would share these observations--if only for a brief break in the K3
> APF action. 
>
>
> KX1:
>
> I tested my KX1 key down with various battery packs and noted the output.  
> This
> was into an OHR QRP wattmeter and a dummy load.  Here are the results, in
> descending order of output:
>
> Lithium-Ion Nanophosphate pack (4.6 AH) from Buddipole4.3W
>
> 12v Pb Gel Cell
> 5AH 4.0W
>
> Fresh Alkaline 8-cell AA
> pack   3.3W
>
> 8 C Cell NiMH in spring-clip holder 5000mAH  2.8W
>
> Mid-life alkaline 8-cell AA pack
> spring  2.7W
>
> 8 cell AA NiMH spring Eneloop 2000mAH2.7W
>
> 8 cell AA NiMH 2650 mAH in spring loaded pack2.6W
>
> Internal 6-cell pack with Lithium AA  
>  
> 1.5 W
>
> K1:
>
> I originally squeezed the 2650 mAH NiMH batteries into my K1's internal 
> holder. 
> But they were always dead when I got a sudden schedule opening and good 
> weather
> for a little QRP portable.  I replaced these with the lower-capacity 2000 mAH
> Eneloop batteries that are supposed to retain 80% of their charge for an 
> entire
> year.  Then I attached a wattmeter and dummyload to the K1, and let it call CQ
> for two hours.  At then end of this it was still putting out 5 watts and I
> stopped the test--a couple hours of QRP portable is usually all I do.
>
> Your mileage may vary, of course.  While looking for battery articles online I
> ran across one by a regular contributor to this list, who warned of the rather
> substantial I**2R losses from spring-loaded battery holders.  Also, I just
> received the nanphosphate pack so I haven't used it in the field.  I will 
> report
> back later after I have some experience with it.   
>
> 72..74
>
> Eric WD6DBM
>
> KX1 K1 K2/10 K3/100 P3 XV144 XV432 W2x2 nearly all mini-modules and foaming 
> for
> a KPA500.  Email me if you are looking to buy a pristine pre-MFJ AL-1200 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT3 don't tune

2010-11-02 Thread Juha Kasari
Thank you for information.

If I first tune 1810 kHz then 1820 kHz and so on... It tunes very well 1.0
to 1  rather wide band because impedance is near 50 ohm in 1810 kHz. But, if
I tune first 1870 then 1860 It doesn't tune very well because first
trying was bad. I think that problem is in software not hardware.

juha - oh6os



2010/11/1 Poul Erik Karlshøj (PKA) 

>
> Hi
> I have the same problem, but with a twist to it. I even got Elecraft to
> send me a replacement KAT3, but it did not help anything.
>
> By chance I tried one of the older configurations (call it config B) and
> then all of a sudden the ATU worked excellent (able to tune a 80m loop and a
> 17m dipole on all bands from 80m thru 10m ... Yes even the dipole!... Both
> antennas use 450 ohm ladder and 4:1 baluns. By the way, now the ATU works
> better than ever before. It never before was able to tune the 17m dipole on
> 30m, 40m or 80m - but now it is!
>
> BUT now with config B something weird happens when the rig is switched ON.
> The TX symbol flashes like in test mode, but there is no audio and the TX
> LED goes on when keyed. I have not found any other way to get out of that
> mode than to make the EE Init reset. Having done the EE Init I can only make
> the rig "see" the KPA3 and the KAT3 by loading a config file.
>
> If I try manually to use CONFIG to select ATU Auto I hear relays clicking,
> when selecting KPA3 I dont hear any fans going in the fan test and leaving
> the KPA3 in norm and leaving the CONFIG it seems that the rig doesn't see
> either KAT3 or KPA3. As soon as I load config B all works again and the ATU
> too ... Until next time I switch ON the rig. Then it needs another EE Init
> and config load.
>
> If I load config A the ATU doesn't work, but now the rig can be switched
> OFF and ON without problems.
>
> I can not see any difference between config A and B and I don't know why
> the rig configuration should influence the functioning of the ATU. Also my
> K2 works fb with its ATU. So the problem is not in the hardware or antenna,
> but something else.
>
> Elecraft is looking into it.
>
> OZ4UN
> Poul-Erik
>
> -Oprindelig meddelelse-
> Fra: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:
> elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] På vegne af Juha - oh6os
> Sendt: 31. oktober 2010 19:32
> Til: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Emne: [Elecraft] KAT3 don't tune
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have worked CQWW SSB this weekend and noted that kat3 don't tune
> correctly.
>
> Many times after tuning SWR is 1.2 or 1.3 even there is no more swr on
> antenna.
>
> I have dipole on 160 meter and swr is under 3 to1 on band, but kat3 try and
> try long time and leave it 1.8 if at all.
>
> My K2 with KAT100 work correctly with these same antennas.
>
> What is the problem?
>
> juha - oh6os
> K2 #4781
> K3 #2100
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT3-don-t-tune-tp5691912p5691912.html
> Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: K2/100 birdie @ 3589

2010-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
  John,

I have not discovered the source of that birdie, but it is there.

Yes, 20 Hz is the DAC limit in the K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2010 7:50 AM, VK7JB wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I've just finished K2/100 #6998.  After blowing the PA transistors of the
> base K2 by accidentally dropping the frequency probe into the works, I've
> completed the KPA100, installed it and all is working very well.  Made
> several SSB contacts tonight and I couldn't be happier.  I have a great
> sense of achievement :)
>
> I'm curious about a prominent birdie, zero beat at 3589khz.  It's present,
> and more prominent, with the antenna disconnected and has its origin
> internally.
>
> There are some postings about this birdie from around 2008, but I don't see
> any resolution.  I can live with it, even though it's inconveniently located
> right where I like to work on SSB phone.  Did anyone work out where this
> comes from and whether or not there is a simple fix?
>
> Also, I've calibrated the K2 reference oscillator several times according to
> the N6KR method.  The result is that my frequency display is 20hz off
> frequency after the rig has warmed up:  eg it reads .98 for 1.00 WWV
> signal.  Am I correct in understanding this is about as good I can expect
> given the DAC parameters of the K2?  I can't seem to improve on it further
> by repeating it.
>
> 73,
>
> John
> VK7JB
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[Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
I know I'm missing it somewhere in the document, but I can't find a
command that sets the NR except for swt34; which does not trigger a
reply from the rig.

How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?

Tom
Radio Amateur N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: K2/100 birdie @ 3589

2010-11-02 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Hi John,

Glad to hear that after all of your bad luck your K2/100 is now working 
well.

The strong birdie at 3589 kHz was also present in my K2/100 before I 
embarked on a birdie killing project a few years ago, which involved a fair 
amout of difficult surgery. This particular birdie is the result of the 
fundamental of the LO mixing with the fundamental of the BFO. In my K2 I 
found evidence that the mixing was taking place in the first mixer, the 
TUF-1 diode ring.

Using whole numbers and assuming that the IF is 4914 kHz, therefore the 
BFO's fundamental is 4914 kHz, when the receiver is tuned to 3589 kHz the 
fundamental frequency of the LO will be 3589 + 4914 kHz,  i.e. 8503 kHz. 
Should the BFO and LO fundamentals mix, one product will be at 8503 - 4914 
kHz, i.e. at 3589 kHz.

There is, unfortunately, no simple fix to this problem as far as I know, 
because due to the lack of shielding and lead filtering the fundamentals and 
harmonics of all the oscillators in the K2 can be found in places where they 
should not be inside the K2, which results in its birdie problem.

Although a receiver spurious response is not involved in this particular 
case, and all superhet receivers have spurious responses to a greater or 
lesser extent, if a mixing product generated by two or more internal 
oscillators should be "heard" by a receiver's spurious response, then this 
would result in a birdie. In the majority of cases it is the lower order 
harmonics of the oscillators which create birdie problems.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


John VK7JB wrote on Tuesday, November 02, 2010, at 11:50 AM:

> Hi All,
>
> I've just finished K2/100 #6998.  After blowing the PA transistors of the
> base K2 by accidentally dropping the frequency probe into the works, I've
> completed the KPA100, installed it and all is working very well.  Made
> several SSB contacts tonight and I couldn't be happier.  I have a great
> sense of achievement :)
>
> I'm curious about a prominent birdie, zero beat at 3589khz.  It's present,
> and more prominent, with the antenna disconnected and has its origin
> internally.
>
> There are some postings about this birdie from around 2008, but I don't 
> see
> any resolution.  I can live with it, even though it's inconveniently 
> located
> right where I like to work on SSB phone.  Did anyone work out where this
> comes from and whether or not there is a simple fix?
>
> Also, I've calibrated the K2 reference oscillator several times according 
> to
> the N6KR method.  The result is that my frequency display is 20hz off
> frequency after the rig has warmed up:  eg it reads .98 for 1.00 
> WWV
> signal.  Am I correct in understanding this is about as good I can expect
> given the DAC parameters of the K2?  I can't seem to improve on it further
> by repeating it.
>
> 73,
>
> John
> VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Stan Gibbs

In K31 mode, the "DS" command returns the state of main NR in bit 2.  (Page
8)


Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
> 
> How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?
> 


-
73, Stan - KR7C
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Programmer-s-Reference-Noise-Reduction-tp5697475p5697643.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
On Tue, 02 Nov 2010 09:04:04 -0500, you wrote:

More confusion...

I used the K3 utility to try the command nr; and it always returns
nr0; regardless of the NR setting.

How do I get the state of the NR

>I know I'm missing it somewhere in the document, but I can't find a
>command that sets the NR except for swt34; which does not trigger a
>reply from the rig.
>
>How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?
>
>Tom
>Radio Amateur N5GE
>
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Re: [Elecraft] NB/NR info Request...

2010-11-02 Thread bodel...@juno.com
Thanks I'll take a copy. I run a 5KW PV system at my mountain home in Big Bear 
CA. my inverters take out 80 meters with 10-20 db over 9 when the sun is out. 
Tried ferrite beads grounding etc.
Thanks loads!! es 73
Mike WB6CLZ K3 4522

-- Original Message --
From: The Smiths 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] NB/NR info Request...
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 04:48:48 +



If there's anyone else that is looking for some reading material when it comes 
to the K3 filters, NB, NR, Notch, Shift, Width, AGC etc and want to have some 
bathroom reading material I'll be happy to send them what I have.  Believe what 
you want, reject the rest. But it's all free either way, and Free is always 
good.. right? 
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Moms Asked to Return to School
Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4cd022abe2cf99061st06vuc
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Wayne Burdick
"DS" command byte 2, bit 2 reflects the NR icon state, which will  
normally be the MAIN NR but is SUB NR in BSET mode with the sub on.

"IC" command reports sub receiver NR status in byte e, bit 2.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 2, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

> On Tue, 02 Nov 2010 09:04:04 -0500, you wrote:
>
> More confusion...
>
> I used the K3 utility to try the command nr; and it always returns
> nr0; regardless of the NR setting.
>
> How do I get the state of the NR
>
>> I know I'm missing it somewhere in the document, but I can't find a
>> command that sets the NR except for swt34; which does not trigger a
>> reply from the rig.
>>
>> How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?
>>
>> Tom
>> Radio Amateur N5GE
>>
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[Elecraft] For Sale: LP-PAN & E-MU0202 Audio Interface

2010-11-02 Thread David Inger

I have for sale the complete LP-PAN panadapter setup.   This package includes a 
factory-built LP-PAN (S/N 896), the Creative E-MU 0202 soundcard interface, all 
cables and manuals and original packaging. It is ready to install on your 
decent performing PC and K3. Everything is in perfect, as-new condition. $175 
plus shipping.

73 de K6SBA
David in Santa Barbara, CA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 07:32:50 -0700 (PDT), Stan wrote:

Thanks to both of you guys!

I see the DS and IC commands and had considered using the IC command
last night but I'm embarased to say that I don't know how to get the
bits out of a byte.

Is there a function in the C# language to do that?  Or does one of you
have  'C' or C# code that does this? 

 I searched all of the online doc for C# but found nothing that I
understood and unfortunately no example that fit my needs.

Thanks

Tom
Radio Amateur N5GE

>
>In K31 mode, the "DS" command returns the state of main NR in bit 2.  (Page
>8)
>
>
>Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
>> 
>> How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?
>> 
>
>
>-
>73, Stan - KR7C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference - Noise Reduction

2010-11-02 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Tom,

To test the value of bit 0 in an 8-bit variable X in C, you can use  
the bitwise AND operator (&):

if( X & 0b1 )
   do_something()

0b1 is a binary constant that's the equivalent of a byte with only bit  
0 set. It is used by the & operator as a "mask". If bit 0 of byte X is  
also set, then the tested "if" statement will be true.

The other bits from 1 to 7 can be accessed with constant masks of  
0b10, 0b100, 0b1000, 0b1, 0b10, 0b100, and 0b1000. Or  
you could use constant values of 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, and 128  
(decimal) or 0x01, 0x02, 0x04, 0x08, 0x10, 0x20, 0x40, 0x80  
(hexadecimal).

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Nov 2, 2010, at 7:59 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 07:32:50 -0700 (PDT), Stan wrote:
>
> Thanks to both of you guys!
>
> I see the DS and IC commands and had considered using the IC command
> last night but I'm embarased to say that I don't know how to get the
> bits out of a byte.
>
> Is there a function in the C# language to do that?  Or does one of you
> have  'C' or C# code that does this?
>
> I searched all of the online doc for C# but found nothing that I
> understood and unfortunately no example that fit my needs.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
> Radio Amateur N5GE
>
>>
>> In K31 mode, the "DS" command returns the state of main NR in bit  
>> 2.  (Page
>> 8)
>>
>>
>> Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
>>>
>>> How do I query the K3 for the state of the NR?
>>>
>>
>>
>> -
>> 73, Stan - KR7C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain

2010-11-02 Thread Jim Brown
On 11/2/2010 5:12 AM, Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO wrote:
> but because I trust the COMPANY to produce quality parts in
> whatever country they choose to manufacture in.
>

YES!   I don't want to get into the politics of this, but the very sad 
part is that so many US companies have been forced by world economics to 
move their mfg away from the US.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] For Sale: updated

2010-11-02 Thread John Shadle
I made a web site with embedded photos so it's easier to see.

http://w4pah.com/fs.html

Included now:
- Elecraft KBT2 (unbuilt)
- Elecraft KAF2 (built)
- PIC-EL (built)
- NJQRP DDS Daughtercard (built)
- Kenwood TM-V7A (dual-band 70cm/2m rig, plus goodies)
- ICOM 2100H (2m 55w)
- SignaLink SL-1 Rev. B
- LDG RBA-1 4:1 balun
- Vista IV-R power supply
- DBJ-2 dual-band J-pole (constructed by Ed Fong)
- BK Tool Kit 2707A multimeter
- IBM ThinkPad 760ED
- 2 pieces of 512MB RAM (pulled from my ThinkPad T42)

Please send all offers to me directly.

73
-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Intermittently loses gain [END of thread]

2010-11-02 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Since this thread has drifted off the initial question, and because 
we're beating to to death :-) , let's end it for now.

73, Eric
Elecraft list modulator



On 11/2/2010 5:12 AM, Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO wrote:
> This failure modality, I believe, applies equally to all sorts of RF
> "connectors", which includes relay contacts as well as cable-end connectors.
> I've experienced similar failures twice over the past seven years.
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[Elecraft] [K2] Front panel LCD diffuser

2010-11-02 Thread IZ2NYY
I'm finishing the front panel board of k2 #6995. On page 27 of the manual it 
tells me not to' remove the backing from either side of the diffuser. I want to 
know if i interpreted well this frase: it means that i have to leave where they 
are the white covers of both sides of the diffuser and install onto it the LCD?

Tnx 73s

Pippo 
IZ2NYY

Sent from my IPAD


  
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Front panel LCD diffuser

2010-11-02 Thread KW4H
The diffuser may appear to have a backing on either (or both) sides that can
be peeled off.  Do NOT peel anything off of the diffuser assembly, it
installs as-is.

73,

Steve, KW4H

On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:27 PM, IZ2NYY  wrote:

> I'm finishing the front panel board of k2 #6995. On page 27 of the manual
> it tells me not to' remove the backing from either side of the diffuser. I
> want to know if i interpreted well this frase: it means that i have to leave
> where they are the white covers of both sides of the diffuser and install
> onto it the LCD?
>
> Tnx 73s
>
> Pippo
> IZ2NYY
>
> Sent from my IPAD
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread stan levandowski
If there is any lister using the SGC-237 autocoupler, could you please 
tell me what power supply you are using for it?

My coupler (backordered for two months - they are apparently very 
popular) is arriving on Friday and I just found out from an SGC tech's 
email that I am only supposed to use an UN-regulated power supply (but 
NOT a wall wart).


So after buying a nice Astron  RS-20M power supply for my new K2, I find 
out I can't use it to power the coupler because the coupler "might 
destroy the Astron electronics" according to SGC (no details as to "how" 
or "why" in the email).

Unfortunately, SGC's policy is that all technical assistance is via 
email only so I can't have a phone conversation with anyone there (I 
already tried!).

Thanks!


Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
QRP CW: Skill, not power!
QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread Bob Cunnings
On SCC's Installation FAQ page I see this explanation:

"Analog or switching power supplies themselves are highly susceptible
to RF. A few millivolts of RF in the power supply can create an
instability which could lead to a catastrophic failure. We never
recommend regulated or switching power supplies because no one can
predict when RF is upsetting the power supply and all installations
differ in characteristics."

http://www.sgcworld.com/smartinstallFAQ.html

Perhaps they are talking about RF pickup on a long run of power cable
between a coupler located at the antenna and the power supply in the
shack??

Bob NW8L

On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:13 PM, stan levandowski  wrote:
> If there is any lister using the SGC-237 autocoupler, could you please
> tell me what power supply you are using for it?
>
> My coupler (backordered for two months - they are apparently very
> popular) is arriving on Friday and I just found out from an SGC tech's
> email that I am only supposed to use an UN-regulated power supply (but
> NOT a wall wart).
>
>
> So after buying a nice Astron  RS-20M power supply for my new K2, I find
> out I can't use it to power the coupler because the coupler "might
> destroy the Astron electronics" according to SGC (no details as to "how"
> or "why" in the email).
>
> Unfortunately, SGC's policy is that all technical assistance is via
> email only so I can't have a phone conversation with anyone there (I
> already tried!).
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
> QRP CW: Skill, not power!
> QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread stan levandowski
  Bob, I guess I missed this in the FAQ:

"Analog or switching power supplies themselves are highly susceptible
> to RF. A few millivolts of RF in the power supply can create an
> instability which could lead to a catastrophic failure. We never
> recommend regulated or switching power supplies because no one can
> predict when RF is upsetting the power supply and all installations
> differ in characteristics."

I can definitely imagine my 20 foot combination coax/power supply line 
acting like an antenna.

So now all I need is a recommendation for a small UNregulated 12VDC 
power supply that isn't a "wall wart".

Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992


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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread stan levandowski
OK, folks -- I located a 12 volt DC, 4 amp, UNregulated power supply for 
$7.95.  It's just the "guts" - I get to build it into a nice cabinet, 
put an on/off switch on it, a pilot light, supply my own jacks, 
etc..PERFECT FOR A HAM!

Here's the link for anyone with a similar need:

http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17636+PS


Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992


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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Stan,

For an unregulated supply, try this MPJA unit - 
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17636+PS -
You will probably want an enclosure, so look in the left side of the 
webpage for Boxes and Cabinets.

Or purchase a transformer, a bridge rectifier and a capacitor and build 
your own power supply.

Another alternative is to use a 12 volt battery charger - just add a 
capacitor (or a battery) to the output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2010 8:19 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
>Bob, I guess I missed this in the FAQ:
>
> "Analog or switching power supplies themselves are highly susceptible
>> to RF. A few millivolts of RF in the power supply can create an
>> instability which could lead to a catastrophic failure. We never
>> recommend regulated or switching power supplies because no one can
>> predict when RF is upsetting the power supply and all installations
>> differ in characteristics."
> I can definitely imagine my 20 foot combination coax/power supply line
> acting like an antenna.
>
> So now all I need is a recommendation for a small UNregulated 12VDC
> power supply that isn't a "wall wart".
>
> Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
> HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
> QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Power Supply for SGC-237

2010-11-02 Thread Jim Brown
On 11/2/2010 4:54 PM, Bob Cunnings wrote:

> "Analog or switching power supplies themselves are highly susceptible
> to RF. A few millivolts of RF in the power supply can create an
> instability which could lead to a catastrophic failure. We never
> recommend regulated or switching power supplies because no one can
> predict when RF is upsetting the power supply and all installations
> differ in characteristics."

This doesn't make any sense to me. Astrons and many others have been 
widely used in ham stations for decades, and these are all regulated 
supplies. Some are switchers, some are not. Indeed, that vast majority 
of 12V power supplies used by hams, and by commercial radio systems are 
regulated supplies. Rather, I strongly suspect that someone at SGC has a 
huge blank spot in the areas of RFI, the bonding of DC power lines, and 
how that DC power is obtained to provide power for accessories.  This is 
an issue that W4TV has had to address with his various interface products.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] N1MM macros for KDVR

2010-11-02 Thread Dick Frey
In last year's SSB SS, when my K3 was a month old, I used function key
macros from N1MM to
'hit' the message memory buttons on the panel.

Each was in the form of:

F1 CQ,{cat1asc swt39;}
F2 Exch,{cat1asc swt35;}

Now they do not work. Has something changed?
Using N1MM V10.10.1  on Com 1. nothing fancy.
k3 #3471
(read from K3 Util)
22:53:43 K3 Utility Version 1.2.12.28
22:53:43 OS Version 5.1 Build 2600 Windows XP
22:53:43 Serial Port COM1 is open
22:53:43 Polling K3
22:53:44 K3 MCU version 04.05. COM1 RS-232 speed 9600 bps

Any ideas?


-- 
Dick - K4XU
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM macros for KDVR

2010-11-02 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
Dick,

See http://www.dseven.org/ar/n1mm-kdvr3

Let me know if it still doesn't work for you ...

~Iain / N6ML


On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 5:58 AM, Dick Frey  wrote:
> In last year's SSB SS, when my K3 was a month old, I used function key
> macros from N1MM to
> 'hit' the message memory buttons on the panel.
>
> Each was in the form of:
>
> F1 CQ,{cat1asc swt39;}
> F2 Exch,{cat1asc swt35;}
>
> Now they do not work. Has something changed?
> Using N1MM V10.10.1  on Com 1. nothing fancy.
> k3 #3471
> (read from K3 Util)
> 22:53:43 K3 Utility Version 1.2.12.28
> 22:53:43 OS Version 5.1 Build 2600 Windows XP
> 22:53:43 Serial Port COM1 is open
> 22:53:43 Polling K3
> 22:53:44 K3 MCU version 04.05. COM1 RS-232 speed 9600 bps
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Dick - K4XU
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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>
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[Elecraft] NB/NR Info...

2010-11-02 Thread The Smiths

Thank you to everyone that had interest in my NB/NR and filters Etc. settings 
write up. I had over 100 requests for the reading material that I offered 
(about 98 more than I had expected).  
If I've missed anyone please feel free to email me again and request it.  As of 
now my email box for requests is empty, so if you didn't get it, than I 
probably accidently missed your email.
 
Also, for those that asked, and didn't get the revised email with my AGC 
settings that I use, here there are;
 
I keep my:
Threshold at 6, 
my slope at 9, 
AGC Pls = Nor, 
AGC HLD at .10, 
AGC DCY on Nor (unless I use AGC Slow and in a pile up, Then "soft") 
AGC F = 120,  Slow = 20  
I run my NB at 2-6, Med 2.  I find that this reduces most noises, but doesn't 
affect the way my CW or SSB signals sound.  If you go too heavy you're going to 
loose signal!
 
Not everyone will agree with my settings, and that's fine.. I'm just giving my 
own opinion on how things work for me.  Therefore there's no need for others to 
start a new discussion group on why my settings are wrong, or right for that 
matter.  Just thanks for your interest.  73

  
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