Re: [Elecraft] K3-100 Low Power Output

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/8/2014 8:34 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Check with the the voltmeter at the K3 end rather than the power 
supply. The K3 will display the voltage in the VFO B area. 


Yes. Solid state power amps work better with higher supply voltage. If 
you have not already don so, try to find a PSU that can regulate to 13.8 
VDC at the current you need. BTW -- a high supply voltage also reduces 
distortion (IM, splatter, clicks).


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KPA500 question

2014-05-09 Thread Chuck Smallhouse
For those who might be interested, I do have a ICOM PW-1, a SS 160- 
6m, 1KW+ output PA, for sale.  It will operate similarly to the 
KPA500 and KAT500 combo,  with automatic band changing and auto 
antenna tuning, with its own built in ATU.  The unit can be located 
remotely and controlled by small desk mounted Control box.


Also for those interested in getting prepared for 4M(70MHz), I have a 
PA that covers both 6M  4M.  It's a UK manufactured Discover PA. 
that uses a GS35B as the final.


Also for sale is an AL 1500.

Of course I would much prefer sales within reasonable driving range.

Contact me off line if interested.

Chuck,  W7CS

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[Elecraft] 4m for KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Philip Godbold
If I wanted both 2m  4m modules - how easy to swap out to change bands ?

I know you will be using the SMA socket - so will there be a connection on the 
board or will the antenna cable be hard wired on ?

I don’t think the change would be needed on a regular basis - but it would be 
good to have 4m for field days and 4m contests.

Of course the Elecraft option would be have 2 KX3’s - one for each band !

Phil G4UDU



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[Elecraft] 4 metre module (70 Mhz) module possible for the KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Barry Middleton

Hello Wayne,
Thank you for the information on the 2 metre 
module for the KX3, I will be ordering one on Friday 16th. I would also 
be interested in a 4 Metre module as that band is getting very popular 
in region1. Just an idea Wayne, would it be possible to have it mounted 
in a seperate enclosure, so as to avoid opening up the KX3 to change 
bands. Just my thoughts and I realise it may not be possible for 
technical reasons. May I wish you and all at Elecraft a sucessful time 
at Dayton.


73,
Barry G4DBS
On 09/05/2014 02:17, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 28
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 17:57:11 -0700
From: Wayne Burdickn...@elecraft.com
To: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net,
k...@yahoogroups.com  k...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3
Message-ID:d3d7bb19-5c7b-4f90-9074-d4fb20104...@elecraft.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi all,

We'll be taking orders for the KX3-2M module, at Dayton and via the web, 
starting next Friday, May 16th. (Please don't call Elecraft about this yet -- 
we won't be set up to take orders until then.)

Meanwhile, we're thinking about doing a 4-meter version. 4 meters is not 
available in the U.S., yet, but it is available in many countries in ITU region 
1 (Europe, Africa, Middle East, etc.). For details, see:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4-meter_band.

A KX3-4M would be identical to the 2-meter version, with about 3 watts output, 
a very low noise figure, and all-mode operation. It would use the same PCB, 
requiring only component changes. Unfortunately there isn't room for both 2- 
and 4-meters on one module.

Any interest in a KX3-4M?

73,
Wayne
N6KR





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[Elecraft] KPA500 Aux Cable Pin 11 Problem with Preamp

2014-05-09 Thread Mike K2MK
I had a problem that I remembered reading about on the reflector when I
hooked up my new KPA500 to my K3 with PR6/10 preamp using the Elecraft Aux
cable and the companion Y cable. I searched the archive and discovered that
users found it necessary to remove pin 11 from the cable to the KPA500. The
problem I experienced was that the preamp was powered up on all bands not
just 6/10/12 meters. I only noticed it when I tried to use my separate
receive antenna on 80 and 40 meters. Since the preamp was powered up the RX
ANT bypass in the preamp did not function so the K3 never saw my receive
only antenna. Removing pin 11 from the Aux cable to the KPA500 solved the
problem.

I'm surprised there is no mention of this problem and its solution in the
KPA500 manual. I think an alert should be added. 

73,
Mike K2MK



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[Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Slava Baytalskiy
Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink 
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink 
should be able to use that as well, right?
If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable 
with RJ-45.

Please advise.
Thanks in advance.

__
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w2...@arrl.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Slava,

Certainly that would be possible, but the output of the Signalink would 
have to be set at mic level rather than line level.


I would think it should be easier to simply use a Y adapter on the 
Line In of the K3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 8:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink 
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink 
should be able to use that as well, right?
If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable 
with RJ-45.



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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Kevin Stover

On 5/9/2014 7:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink 
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink 
should be able to use that as well, right?
If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable 
with RJ-45.

Please advise.
Thanks in advance.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net

Do you have the tools for crimping RJ-45 connectors on CAT5/6?
If not buy the proper cable from Signalink. It's cheaper.

--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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[Elecraft] Freq counter probe tips

2014-05-09 Thread John Cooper

Anyone know who makes the probe tips used in the k2?  I need some but not sure 
what kind they are or if there something else and just used as probe tips.  Or 
if there a elecraft specialty item.  I need bout 3-4 or so, so I tried 
searching ebay to no avail.

WT5Y

Sent from my Cricket smartphone
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Aux Cable Pin 11 Problem with Preamp

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Rogers
I also had a problem with an external preamp for 6 meters.  This one I 
powered from the station 13.8V power supply so it was always on. The 
problem came about when I changed bands to the internal 2M transverter 
and inadvertently activated the RX ANT.  Instant relay buzz from inside 
the K3, I assume it originated from the KXV3A board.  Removing power 
from the external preamp cured the buzz.  A bit of a mystery in that the 
KXV3A has DC blocking caps on the IN and OUT connectors as does the ARR 
P50VDG preamp.  As my activation of the RX ANT was inappropriate for 
2M,  I have not made an issue of the anomaly.  I am still very curious 
as to how and what caused the relay buzz?  Everything is the shack is 
single point grounded including the station power supply.


73s Jim,  W4ATK
On 5/9/2014 7:34 AM, Mike K2MK wrote:

I had a problem that I remembered reading about on the reflector when I
hooked up my new KPA500 to my K3 with PR6/10 preamp using the Elecraft Aux
cable and the companion Y cable. I searched the archive and discovered that
users found it necessary to remove pin 11 from the cable to the KPA500. The
problem I experienced was that the preamp was powered up on all bands not
just 6/10/12 meters. I only noticed it when I tried to use my separate
receive antenna on 80 and 40 meters. Since the preamp was powered up the RX
ANT bypass in the preamp did not function so the K3 never saw my receive
only antenna. Removing pin 11 from the Aux cable to the KPA500 solved the
problem.

I'm surprised there is no mention of this problem and its solution in the
KPA500 manual. I think an alert should be added.

73,
Mike K2MK



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Re: [Elecraft] Freq counter probe tips

2014-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

I really don't know, but I can give you an alternative.
I use #14 bare copper wire to build a number of the K2 counter probes.  
A bit of filing to round off the end of the wire and it fits the test 
points quite nicely.


I seem to lose or misplace those probes frequently.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 9:07 AM, John Cooper wrote:

Anyone know who makes the probe tips used in the k2?  I need some but not sure 
what kind they are or if there something else and just used as probe tips.  Or 
if there a elecraft specialty item.  I need bout 3-4 or so, so I tried 
searching ebay to no avail.




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Re: [Elecraft] 4m for KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Wayne Burdick

On May 9, 2014, at 1:19 AM, Philip Godbold g4ud...@psmb.co.uk wrote:

 If I wanted both 2m  4m modules - how easy to swap out to change bands ?

This would not be a good idea. We use very small internal coax connectors for 
this option, and they're rated for a small number of mating/unmating cycles, 
not dozens or hundreds. So you'd need to choose one or the other.


 I know you will be using the SMA socket - so will there be a connection on 
 the board or will the antenna cable be hard wired on ?

The antenna jack is at one end of a removable cable assembly that plugs into 
the option module. But again, you wouldn't want to swap modules more than a few 
times.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] 4 metre module (70 Mhz) module possible for the KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Wayne Burdick

On May 9, 2014, at 1:24 AM, Barry Middleton bajubrans...@ntlworld.com wrote:

 I would also be interested in a 4 Metre module as that band is getting very 
 popular in region 1. Just an idea Wayne, would it be possible to have it 
 mounted in a seperate enclosure, so as to avoid opening up the KX3 to change 
 bands.

There's no plan at present to make any of the KX3's transverter options 
external. The internal module gets all of its control signals from a 10-pin 
connector that I wouldn't recommended extending.

See my previous posting on swapping modules -- that isn't recommended, either, 
due to the small size of the coax connectors.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.


What is my audio stuff that you are currently using? If it's to/from 
an internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB 
audio interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to 
advertising by those who sell it. And help info on the DX Engineering 
website to solve RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.


There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home 
studios that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and 
tested thoroughly two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better 
decoding of digital signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark 
stereo interface costs about $35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was 
$75, and was replaced by a US120 that costs more. They work equally 
well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Phil Wheeler
I have the SL-USB and the Tigertronics cable set 
and jumper block for the K2. When I acquired the 
K3 I considered using the front mic connection 
with the K3. I concluded the K2 cable and block 
would work with the K3. Never tested it because I 
ended up using the rear connections for the SL_USB.


Perhaps someone has gone farther with this and can 
confirm or deny.


73, Phil w7ox

On 5/9/14, 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink 
USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink 
should be able to use that as well, right?
If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable 
with RJ-45.

Please advise.
Thanks in advance.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net



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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Richard Ferch

Slava,

If you are using a microphone input for data modes, adjusting the mic 
gain input for the data mode interface will affect the mic gain with 
your microphone. You will probably find this annoying.


The usual arrangement is to configure voice modes to use the front- or 
rear-panel microphone input, as appropriate for your microphone, with 
the mic gain level set properly for the mike, and then to configure Data 
modes to use Line In, with the Line In level set appropriately for data 
mode input. The Line In level and the microphone input level are 
independent, so adjusting the Line In level for data modes has no effect 
on microphone input levels, which is not the case if you use a 
microphone input for data modes.


If you use a sound card for voice keying, you can use the same sound 
card for Data modes. You would configure MIC+LIN to be on for voice 
modes and off for Data modes. By controlling the microphone input level 
to the sound card when you use it as a voice keyer, you can set things 
up so the Line In level that works for data modes is also the correct 
setting for voice keying in voice modes. You don't need separate sound 
cards or interfaces for Data vs. voice modes.


73,
Rich VE3KI


W2RMS wrote:


Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink 
USB box \
to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector? I have the Signalink box 
that \
i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3. The K3's 
rear \
line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff. Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink 
should \
be able to use that as well, right? If all the necessary pins are there i could 
make \
up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable with RJ-45.

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Re: [Elecraft] Automotive Radar Potential Interference

2014-05-09 Thread Robert W Schumacher
My teams and I have developed automotive radar for adaptive cruise control and 
collision avoidance for several decades. They generally operate at 76-77 GHz 
with only milliWatts of power and significant frequency modulation. The range 
is typically up to 150 M. Furthermore, with high gain antennas, the 
millimeter-wave beam is very directional and the power is readily absorbed in 
the environment. There should be no concern about interference with other users 
of this spectrum.


W9DBR

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] K3-100 for sell

2014-05-09 Thread Ed Stallman

I have 2 K3's and I'd like to sell one
K3-100  I assembled 07/12  serial # 6644
*KXV3ARX Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface*
*KFL3A-6K6 kHz AM / ESSB, 8-pole
**KFL3A-400 400 Hz, 8-pole
*standard 2.7 kHz 5 -pole filter**
FW Rev 04.51

This K3 has performed equally as well as my factory assembled K3 serial 
# 32xx

No dings , scratches , scuff's in none smoking environment
I will ship to you in factory box , (double boxed ) with manual and 
power cord . $ 2,285.00



You have any questions please Email

Tnx Ed N5DG


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
http://www.avast.com
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[Elecraft] K2 Control Board Issue

2014-05-09 Thread Glenn Haffly
Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on the
control board. I fixed that with a replacement from my junkbox. All
voltages are correct on control board U3. When tapping display I get a
voltage of 23.3 volts indicated from a 12 volt supply and zero current.
Further checking shows R7 on the control board is zero ohms instead of
1.78K. How important is it to replace R7
with a 1% resistor rather than something from the junkbox?
Everything else on the K2 works fine , TX and RX are OK.
Hopefully a replacement R7 will then display the correct voltage and
current.
Any input from the reflector is appreciated.
Glenn , K5ZE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board Issue

2014-05-09 Thread Ross Primrose
Resistors almost never fail shorted, I've never seen it happen. Check 
for solder bridges, and look at the schematic and see what else could be 
causing a 0ohm reading.


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/9/2014 1:14 PM, Glenn Haffly wrote:

Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on the
control board. I fixed that with a replacement from my junkbox. All
voltages are correct on control board U3. When tapping display I get a
voltage of 23.3 volts indicated from a 12 volt supply and zero current.
Further checking shows R7 on the control board is zero ohms instead of
1.78K. How important is it to replace R7
with a 1% resistor rather than something from the junkbox?
Everything else on the K2 works fine , TX and RX are OK.
Hopefully a replacement R7 will then display the correct voltage and
current.
Any input from the reflector is appreciated.
Glenn , K5ZE
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment

2014-05-09 Thread Harry_Yingst
In many photos of this amp it looks like the LEDs are not lined up (some
higher others lower)
I realize this is cosmetic, but it's a distraction from it's otherwise nice
appearance.

Is there a way to bet them to perfectly line up and stay that way?


Thank you.





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board Issue

2014-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Glenn,

R7 has no association with the voltage display - it does however have a 
lot to do with the current display.


The voltage detection is done by the voltage divider consisting of R9 
and R10 on the control board.  The voltage measured at the junction of 
R9 and R10 (or U3 pin 5) should be 20% of the 12 volt input (as measured 
at P7 pin 2).


I would wager you have a bad solder connection at R10.  Measure the 
resistance from U3 pin 5 to ground - it should read 196k.


As for R7 reading zero ohms, I would suggest you look for a solder 
bridge.  If you find none, then remove U6 and remeasure.  Should the R7 
resistance come up to normal, then U6 will have to be replaced - and be 
careful about taking proper anti-static measures.


Is there any chance you are using an old VOM or VTVM to check 
resistances?  If so, know that those can cause solid state devices to 
conduct and may even cause damage.  Use a DMM - those do not use high 
voltages for resistance measurements.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 1:14 PM, Glenn Haffly wrote:

Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on the
control board. I fixed that with a replacement from my junkbox. All
voltages are correct on control board U3. When tapping display I get a
voltage of 23.3 volts indicated from a 12 volt supply and zero current.
Further checking shows R7 on the control board is zero ohms instead of
1.78K. How important is it to replace R7
with a 1% resistor rather than something from the junkbox?
Everything else on the K2 works fine , TX and RX are OK.
Hopefully a replacement R7 will then display the correct voltage and
current.
Any input from the reflector is appreciated.



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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: **another** EC2 project enclosure

2014-05-09 Thread John Shadle
Hi all,
I wanted to let you know that in digging through my stuff, I found
*another* EC2 project enclosure.

The first one has sold, in case you were wondering.

Asking $68 + shipping (probably ~$7 or so for First Class postage).

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment

2014-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Harry,

Remove the front panel enclosure and tilt the LEDs until they are 
aligned to your satisfaction, then put the front panel metalwork back 
on.  They will stay aligned.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 2:10 PM, Harry_Yingst wrote:

In many photos of this amp it looks like the LEDs are not lined up (some
higher others lower)
I realize this is cosmetic, but it's a distraction from it's otherwise nice
appearance.

Is there a way to bet them to perfectly line up and stay that way?


Thank you.





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-LED-Alignment-tp7588837.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment

2014-05-09 Thread Harry Yingst
Thank you, I have been seriously considering getting this amplifier.

I have been thinking about the alignment of the LEDs and knew it would bug me 
for them to not be straight.






 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Harry_Yingst hlyin...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2014 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment
 

Harry,

Remove the front panel enclosure and tilt the LEDs until they are 
aligned to your satisfaction, then put the front panel metalwork back 
on.  They will stay aligned.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 2:10 PM, Harry_Yingst wrote:
 In many photos of this amp it looks like the LEDs are not lined up (some
 higher others lower)
 I realize this is cosmetic, but it's a distraction from it's otherwise nice
 appearance.

 Is there a way to bet them to perfectly line up and stay that way?


 Thank you.





 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-LED-Alignment-tp7588837.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Phil Kane
On 5/8/2014 6:15 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

 Any good rumors about a U.S 4 meter band? First I've heard it suggested!

Don't hold your breath.  There is, and still will be, TV broadcast
operations in that band, and even if TV is evicted the common-carrier
type data providers will have first dibs.  The only reason that hams
in R-1
have it is that TV there went elsewhere with the advent of DTV.  Not so
in the US where every little burg wants its own TV translator or
low-power station.  (My own personal opinion, not that of the SBE)
-- --
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

Society of Broadcast Engineers
Vice Chair - Chapter 124
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment

2014-05-09 Thread Tighe Kuykendall
I believe the manual says to use a straight edge or ruler to gently push 
against them to align the LEDs.  That's what I did and mine are all 
fairly well aligned.


Tighe
NK4I


On 5/9/2014 2:34 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:



  From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Harry_Yingst hlyin...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2014 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment


Harry,

Remove the front panel enclosure and tilt the LEDs until they are
aligned to your satisfaction, then put the front panel metalwork back
on.  They will stay aligned.

73,
Don W3FPR









--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment

2014-05-09 Thread Harry Yingst
Thank you 

I have still to order the Amp, it was just something I was curious on.






 From: Tighe Kuykendall t...@nk4i.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, May 9, 2014 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment
 

I believe the manual says to use a straight edge or ruler to gently push 
against them to align the LEDs.  That's what I did and mine are all 
fairly well aligned.

Tighe
NK4I


On 5/9/2014 2:34 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:

 
   From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Harry_Yingst hlyin...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, May 9, 2014 2:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - LED Alignment


 Harry,

 Remove the front panel enclosure and tilt the LEDs until they are
 aligned to your satisfaction, then put the front panel metalwork back
 on.  They will stay aligned.

 73,
 Don W3FPR






-- 
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 LED alighnment

2014-05-09 Thread Jeff Cathrow
The uneven LEDs bothered me, too when I was building mine.  I merely utilized a 
toothpick to adjust and line them up as even as possible before installing the 
front panel over them.  My solution was an easy one and I suggest you give it a 
try.
 
73, Jeff, NH7RO


 
 
 
 
 

cathrowinternatio...@hotmail.com
 
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin micconnector

2014-05-09 Thread Wes (N7WS)
Normally, I defer to your expertise. However, my experience is that the 
SignaLink is no better or no worse than the built-in sound card in my Lenovo 
T400 laptop.


Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one.  I saw 
no difference with it either. It appears to me that the RTTY SNR is set at the 
K3 Line Out and a lower noise/higher dynamic range sound card is unnecessary.  
If I'm wrong (always a distinct possibility) I would like to know how.  I 
retired the SignaLink mainly because I was out of USB ports on the laptop.


Wes  N7WS


On 5/9/2014 7:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also 
try it with the K3.


What is my audio stuff that you are currently using? If it's to/from an 
internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB audio 
interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to advertising 
by those who sell it. And help info on the DX Engineering website to solve 
RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.


There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home studios 
that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and tested thoroughly 
two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better decoding of digital 
signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark stereo interface costs about 
$35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was $75, and was replaced by a US120 
that costs more. They work equally well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin micconnector

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/9/2014 1:26 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one. 


Hi Wes,

I did my testing with JT65HF on he HF bands, with the K3 output feeding 
both one Thinkpad internal sound card and the Tascam feeding a second 
Thinkpad. I did the same comparison between the Numark and internal, 
then between the Tascam and the Numark. My criteria was the number of 
good decodes for each 1 minute pass. The Tascam and Numark boxes 
consistently decoded twice as many signals per 1 minute pass. The 
internal sound card rarely decoded a signal weaker than an indicated 
-12, whereas the Tascam and Numark regularly decoded additional signals 
down to -20, with occasional -22 decodes. I attribute that to better 
performance near the bottom  of the A/D. When comparing the two USB 
boxes to each other, roughly once in ten passes, one would decode a 
signal that the other would not, but neither was better than the other 
-- on one pass the Tascam would miss a station that the Numark copied, 
then 5-10 minutes later the Numark would miss a station that the Tascam 
copied. This was quite extensive -- in addition to watching the nigher 
bands, I even let them run overnight on 160, then compare decodes the 
next morning.


I found performance a bit better with RTTY, but did no equivalent 
testing to substantiate that, because I found the JT65 results far more 
quantifiable and repeatable. So for RTTY contesting, the Tascam is on 
one rig feeding one laptop, and the Numark is on the other rig, feeding 
the other laptop. Now that we have 2Tone as an alternative to MMTTY, 
I've been running three decode windows per radio, and the most I can say 
to describe the result is that they are about equally good, but on 
almost every pass, one of the windows will copy something that one of 
both of the others missed, not no consistent advantage I've been able to 
discern to one over the other. The real advantage is that you have three 
looks at the same signal, so you tend to ask for far fewer repeats, AND 
I have changed to not repeating the exchange. I notice W0YK doing the same.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Dave
Wikipedia is way out of date. For up to date info on 4m see www.70MHZ.org

Its currently QRV as WG2XPN/B on an all year round basis. Previously it had
a different callsign every year and was only allowed to transmit
may-spetember (Sp-E) season. It has already been heard by me in TX this
year(off the back of its beam!). Its best DX so far is Italy. Yes a lot more
Eu Countries have the band than 10 years ago. For beacon info see
http://www.70mhz.org/index.php?categoryid=1p2_articleid=365 

Dave

Ww2r g4fre


--

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 18:23:38 -0700
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
To: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net,
k...@yahoogroups.com k...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3
Message-ID: 52db6790-0da1-411b-90a8-5bd00f1fb...@elecraft.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Any good rumors about a U.S 4 meter band? First I've heard it suggested!

According to Wikipedia:

  United States has one experimental transmitter in Virginia transmitting
CW on 70.005 MHz. Call sign is WE9XFT. 

This may be stale information, but here's something about that station (a
beacon) from 3 years ago:

  http://www.qth.net/pipermail/zsvhf/2011-February/001858.html

Wayne

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Re: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3

2014-05-09 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Dave,

Thanks a lot for this update. 

Wayne
N6KR


On May 9, 2014, at 2:45 PM, Dave elecr...@g4fre.com wrote:

 Wikipedia is way out of date. For up to date info on 4m see www.70MHZ.org
 
 Its currently QRV as WG2XPN/B on an all year round basis. Previously it had
 a different callsign every year and was only allowed to transmit
 may-spetember (Sp-E) season. It has already been heard by me in TX this
 year(off the back of its beam!). Its best DX so far is Italy. Yes a lot more
 Eu Countries have the band than 10 years ago. For beacon info see
 http://www.70mhz.org/index.php?categoryid=1p2_articleid=365 
 
 Dave
 
 Ww2r g4fre
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 3
 Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 18:23:38 -0700
 From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
 To: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net,
   k...@yahoogroups.com k...@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 4-Meter (70 MHz) module possible for the KX3
 Message-ID: 52db6790-0da1-411b-90a8-5bd00f1fb...@elecraft.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Any good rumors about a U.S 4 meter band? First I've heard it suggested!
 
 According to Wikipedia:
 
  United States has one experimental transmitter in Virginia transmitting
 CW on 70.005 MHz. Call sign is WE9XFT. 
 
 This may be stale information, but here's something about that station (a
 beacon) from 3 years ago:
 
  http://www.qth.net/pipermail/zsvhf/2011-February/001858.html
 
 Wayne
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pinmicconnector

2014-05-09 Thread Wes (N7WS)

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the detailed reply.  I have never tried JT65 of any flavor so I have 
no basis for comparison and accept your conclusions.


Since I'm more of a DXer than a contester, I don't often use N1MM or any of the 
other programs that support 2Tone.  I use DXBase for general logging and AXETTY 
(an MMTTY variant) on RTTY.  AXETTY, by Joe, WA6AXE, speaks to DXBase.  I asked 
Joe whether he would port to 2Tone, but he's not interested.  In my (very) 
limited use of N1MM on RTTY I have used multiple decode windows.  It appears to 
me that 2Tone might be superior once it locks to the signal, but on quick 
exchanges that doesn't seem to happen.  Maybe something I'm doing wrong.  
Nevertheless, not a big issue for my style of operating.


Although licensed in 1958 I was never on RTTY until I got the K3 about 4 1/2 
years ago.  The passing of my wife three years ago took a big hunk out of that 
time.  Even so, with very modest antennas I've now worked 210 countries on RTTY 
and it's become my favorite mode. Maybe I should give JT65 a try, except as a 
former copy-by-ear EMEer I think it's cheating on that mode :-)


73,

Wes  N7WS


On 5/9/2014 2:00 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/9/2014 1:26 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one. 


Hi Wes,

I did my testing with JT65HF on he HF bands, with the K3 output feeding both 
one Thinkpad internal sound card and the Tascam feeding a second Thinkpad. I 
did the same comparison between the Numark and internal, then between the 
Tascam and the Numark. My criteria was the number of good decodes for each 1 
minute pass. The Tascam and Numark boxes consistently decoded twice as many 
signals per 1 minute pass. The internal sound card rarely decoded a signal 
weaker than an indicated -12, whereas the Tascam and Numark regularly decoded 
additional signals down to -20, with occasional -22 decodes. I attribute that 
to better performance near the bottom  of the A/D. When comparing the two USB 
boxes to each other, roughly once in ten passes, one would decode a signal 
that the other would not, but neither was better than the other -- on one pass 
the Tascam would miss a station that the Numark copied, then 5-10 minutes 
later the Numark would miss a station that the Tascam copied. This was quite 
extensive -- in addition to watching the nigher bands, I even let them run 
overnight on 160, then compare decodes the next morning.


I found performance a bit better with RTTY, but did no equivalent testing to 
substantiate that, because I found the JT65 results far more quantifiable and 
repeatable. So for RTTY contesting, the Tascam is on one rig feeding one 
laptop, and the Numark is on the other rig, feeding the other laptop. Now that 
we have 2Tone as an alternative to MMTTY, I've been running three decode 
windows per radio, and the most I can say to describe the result is that they 
are about equally good, but on almost every pass, one of the windows will copy 
something that one of both of the others missed, not no consistent advantage 
I've been able to discern to one over the other. The real advantage is that 
you have three looks at the same signal, so you tend to ask for far fewer 
repeats, AND I have changed to not repeating the exchange. I notice W0YK doing 
the same.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pinmicconnector

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/9/2014 2:58 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Maybe I should give JT65 a try, except as a former copy-by-ear EMEer 
I think it's cheating on that mode :-)




JT65 has elements of watching paint dry, but like some of Joe Taylor's 
other modes, it can be a thrill making otherwise impossible QSOs, like 
MS using FSK441 and ionospheric scatter using ISCAT at ridiculous S/N.  
I've recently begun using his newest, JT9, which uses only about 20Hz, 
gets 100% copy at -24, and 50% copy at -26. Last week, I had a sked with 
AB3CV on 160M around my sunset, and got successive decodes at -22, -23, 
-24, -25, and -26. He wasn't decoding me, so we didn't make the Q.


A few summers back, K7BV was doing 6M grid trips on his way to and from 
ham conventions to run the Yaesu booth, celebrating his recovery from a 
VERY nasty cancer surgery. He was making lots of guys happy with very 
rare grids, with QSOs in the 300 - 1500 mile range. I think I picked up 
about ten. Mostly FSK441, some CW.  He was running about 800W, setting 
up with a Honda generator.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Slava Baytalskiy
By my audio stuff i mean a mic.
I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a 
gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.
So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm 
wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
So that's not an option for me.
I think its a lot easier to just hit a couple of buttons and switch to the 
front panel mic for digital work, isn't it?
And the rear mic won't go live either.

As far as audio interface goes, yes, i have an E-mu 0404 USB that i can use. 
But signalink works just fine. No drivers to install. And it has just enough 
controls.
I really don't see why i would need a studio quality sound card for PSK31.

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w2...@arrl.net

On May 9, 2014, at 10:02 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:

 On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
 I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to 
 also try it with the K3.
 
 What is my audio stuff that you are currently using? If it's to/from an 
 internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB audio 
 interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to 
 advertising by those who sell it. And help info on the DX Engineering 
 website to solve RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.
 
 There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home studios 
 that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and tested thoroughly 
 two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better decoding of digital 
 signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark stereo interface costs about 
 $35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was $75, and was replaced by a US120 
 that costs more. They work equally well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Josh
You wouldn't use a Y-cable. Why not an input on your mixer? Then use whatever 
control is convenient in your pile of outboard gear to kill the mic when 
running digital modes. 

Or pad the mic level back down  use K3 mic input. 

Another topic is why use the outboard gear at all? Gate  limiter aren't 
necessary with levels set correctly. K3 already has compressor  EQ. I can't 
deny the rack of gear with blinking lights looks very cool

73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my Technophone PC105T

 On May 9, 2014, at 4:40 PM, Slava Baytalskiy sla...@nullserv.com wrote:
 
 By my audio stuff i mean a mic.
 I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a 
 gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's 
 line-in.
 So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm 
 wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
 So that's not an option for me.
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Re: [Elecraft] Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

2014-05-09 Thread Jim Brown

On 5/9/2014 4:40 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

By my audio stuff i mean a mic.
I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a 
gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.


Hi Slava,

A de-esser works in the 6-8 kHz range, and you need it in a studio, 
especially with mics like the SM58 that are sibilant, it's totally 
useless for ham radio. If you want to use an SM58, you can run it 
straight into the front panel mic input with a suitable adapter -- pin 2 
of the XLR is hot, pin 3 and pin 1 get tied together and go to the 
connector shell. The K3 has excellent EQ and compression built in, so 
you've got a lot of stuff there that you don't need.


The SM58 is an singer's vocal mic, it has proximity effect, which adds a 
lot of bass that must be equalized out. Pro mics are overkill for ham 
radio (in terms of cost), but if you want to use one, go for one of the 
EV variable-D mics -- RE10, 11, 15, 16, 18. No proximity effect, no 
sibilance.


Another issue with trying to use a pro mic in ham radio is that ham mics 
have presence peaks around 3 kHz to compensate for the rolloff of the 
crystal filter, so you must add that with an equalizer. The TXEQ in the 
K3 works VERY well for that.  Before W6XU turned me onto the Yahama 
CM500 headset, I was using an RE16 from my stash of recording mics, on 
an AKG boom. Worked fine, I got great reports, but the CM500 is $60, and 
sounds great too.



So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm 
wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
So that's not an option for me.
I think its a lot easier to just hit a couple of buttons and switch to the 
front panel mic for digital work, isn't it?
And the rear mic won't go live either.

As far as audio interface goes, yes, i have an E-mu 0404 USB that i can use. 
But signalink works just fine. No drivers to install. And it has just enough 
controls.
If you're happy with it, use the Line In. But remember that it has a Pin 
One Problem, so you could run into RFI with it.



I really don't see why i would need a studio quality sound card for PSK31.


See my exchange with N7WS about that in this thread -- a better sound 
card can improve linearity at the bottom of the dynamic range. In fact, 
you need a decent USB sound card a LOT more than all that outboard gear. 
The 0404 is overkill, although nice if you want to feed a spectrum 
display using NaP3. The Signal Link may be good enough -- the cheap 
Numark and somewhat nicer Tascam certainly are.


I use the CM500 plugged into the rear panel mic and headphone jacks, 
assign the Headphones + Speaker toggle to one of the PF keys. That 
lets you use the K3's excellent audio processing, get rid of all that 
outboard gear, and makes it very easy to switch from SSB to digital modes.


73, Jim K9YC
Retired audio professional
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[Elecraft] [KX3] HRD/DM80 and a SignaLink

2014-05-09 Thread Jack Spitznagel

Good Weekend All,

Don't have easy access to search the archives, so at risk of a dup, here 
is a finding from setting up the KX3, SignaLink with the KX3 
Tigertronics made cables, and DM780. HRD works flawlessly with Elecraft 
KXUSB here, but...


Using the little paper instruction insert that came with the SL to KX3 
cables from Tigertronics, it was implied that the KX3 menu entry for 
MicBtn was to be in PTT Up.Dn. Well, that is apparently backwards. The 
system behaves normally if Mic Btn is OFF, and when set as instructed in 
the little sheet, the outgoing data string is transmitted in your 
selected mode, then the SL unkeys (as it should), but the KX3 stays in 
transmit.


When the KX3 is set as the TigerTronic folks suggest, I assume the SL 
vox relay was being overruled by the TX command by KXUSB control 
because tapping the XMIT button on the rig would drop the rig back into 
receive. With PTT set OFF, the SignaLink VOX circuit has proper control.


Had me stumped for a minute.. hope this helps someone setting up in the 
future.


Jack - KD4IZ

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[Elecraft] A K2 Question

2014-05-09 Thread Irv [K3IRV] McWherter
I have seen a couple of these at friends homes, read some of 30 pages of
eham.net reviews, but I have not found an extensive review on the rig as a
trail radio.

I am not a SOTA guy, but I do enjoy going to parks, lighthouses, etc and
operating.  Is the K2 a good QRP choice for this outside of the shack
operating environment?

Thanks for the help and 73,

K3IRV - Irv.

-- 
*When All Else Fails Amateur Radio will be there *
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Re: [Elecraft] A K2 Question

2014-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Irv,

Yes, the K2 will serve you quite well for that type of operation. In its 
most basic form, it is a CW 80 through 10 meter (except 60 meters) 
transceiver which will go up to at least 10 watts (typically 12 to 15 
watts).  Options extend that to SSB (with the KSB2 option), 60 meters 
(K60XV option) and 160 meters (K160RX option).
If you are not working with resonant antennas, the KAT2 is recommended, 
and you might want to consider the internal battery (KBT2 option).


If you are looking for a more compact CW only transceiver, you may want 
to look at the K1 or even smaller, the KX1.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 11:23 PM, Irv [K3IRV] McWherter wrote:

I have seen a couple of these at friends homes, read some of 30 pages of
eham.net reviews, but I have not found an extensive review on the rig as a
trail radio.

I am not a SOTA guy, but I do enjoy going to parks, lighthouses, etc and
operating.  Is the K2 a good QRP choice for this outside of the shack
operating environment?




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