Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

2014-05-26 Thread KU4AF
Hmm, George Barris as an Elecraft consultant? I'm thinking Kandy-Kolored
Tangerine-Flake Streamline Mojo...

John, KU4AF
Pittsboro, NC


Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2 
-- could be a trend.




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/New-k2-ghostlight-mod-tp7589545p7589550.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

If you are measuring a 100 watt signal with a 2500 watt slug, you can 
expect significant errors.
Even the Bird slugs (right after calibration) offer only a 5% of full 
scale accuracy.  With a 2500 watt slug, that means a possible error of 
+/- 125 watts at any point on the scale.
For best results, use a slug that is as close to the maximum power that 
you expect as possible.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/26/2014 11:11 PM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:

On 5/26/2014 15:07, tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:


10% of Average, or Peak Envelope Power?
Are you using  a PEP Watt meter?


A coaxial-dynamics WM with a 2500 slug



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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Bob KD7YZ
On 5/26/2014 15:07, tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:

> 10% of Average, or Peak Envelope Power?
> Are you using  a PEP Watt meter?
> 

A coaxial-dynamics WM with a 2500 slug

-- 

Bob KD7YZ
AMSAT LM 0901
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question 2 - remote power control

2014-05-26 Thread Michael Walker
Well,

I figured it out.  It seems very fussy when you run it at PC baud rate of
19200.  Once I changed it back to 38400 by connecting to the amp with
PUTTY, it seems much better behaved.  On the initial first tests, on and
off work as advertised.

Mike va3mw



On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 4:49 PM, Jim - KE8G  wrote:

> Hi Michael,
> From the way you are describing things, I would suspect you have a problem
> somewhere other than the KPA500.
>
> With my remote setup:
> RS232, straight serial, no USB-to-serial
> KPA500,
> KPA500 software (not the utility),  are you using this software?  Here's a
> link, scroll down about midway to the Remote Software.
> http://www.elecraft.com/k2_remote.htm
>
> I control the software via Chrome Remote desktop and it will power on &
> off all day long without missing a beat.
>
> Question, why are you concerned with turning off all the AC to the amp?
>
> 73 de Jim - KE8G
>
>  Michael Walker  wrote:
> > I wish I could say it works for me.  It isn't a com port issue as those
> are
> > solid (I know what I am doing with RS232 and windows).
> >
> > If I power off the AC power of the amp and then turn it on remotely it
> > doesn't work.  It 'will' work after about 10-15 tries to wake it up.
> >
> > So, to summarize:
> >
> > KPA500 with the KPA500 utility
> > Hardware RS232 port
> > The ability to turn all AC power off to the amp remotel
> >
> > You power off the amp without turning off the AC and you can't just turn
> it
> > back on again without actually power cycling the AC a few times.
> >
> > This shouldn't be that hard.  I'll have to talk to Elecraft tomorrow when
> > they get in.  I'd hate to post a poor review on eHam.
> >
> > mike va3mw
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, KE8G  wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Michael,
> > > I, too, use the KPA500 remotely, and have no problem turning the power
> on
> > > & off.
> > >
> > > I take it you have the KPA500 connected to a computer?  Did you
> download
> > > the KPA500 software from the Elecraft web site?  This allows complete
> > > monitoring and on/off operation.
> > >
> > > 73 de Jim - KE8G
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPad
> > >
> > > > On May 25, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Michael Walker 
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have just installed my KPA500 on my remote base and I noticed that
> it
> > > is
> > > > possible to turn it off via the computer or via just dropping the AC
> > > power
> > > > and not getting it to come back on.
> > > >
> > > > This makes is sort of a challenge for remote operating.
> > > >
> > > > Is this normal operation or did I miss something obvious.
> > > >
> > > > 73 all
> > > >
> > > > Mike va3mw
> > > > __
> > > > Elecraft mailing list
> > > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> > >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

2014-05-26 Thread Vic Rosenthal K2VCO
Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2 
-- could be a trend.


On 5/26/2014 6:48 PM, John Cooper wrote:

My k2 already had the five keycap leds for xit rit split, zerobeat, transmit, 
audio filter and Recieve antenna.  Now I've gone and added some leds to the 
inside of the front panel. Alpena lights I got from Autozone.  It lets you see 
where the buttons are in the dark.  Its a totally useless mod but the effect is 
neat.  I sourced power from underneath the rf board where you plug in the 
battery or amp depending on what you have.  They come on when you turn on power 
supply before you turn on radio.  The instructions say they draw .08 amps, I 
have not confirmed this. I have 2 youtube videos one is a picture slideshow and 
the other is a short video.  My youtube name is A390652.  The videos are titled 
k2backlit in action and k2 backlight details.

WT5Y


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

2014-05-26 Thread John Cooper
My k2 already had the five keycap leds for xit rit split, zerobeat, transmit, 
audio filter and Recieve antenna.  Now I've gone and added some leds to the 
inside of the front panel. Alpena lights I got from Autozone.  It lets you see 
where the buttons are in the dark.  Its a totally useless mod but the effect is 
neat.  I sourced power from underneath the rf board where you plug in the 
battery or amp depending on what you have.  They come on when you turn on power 
supply before you turn on radio.  The instructions say they draw .08 amps, I 
have not confirmed this. I have 2 youtube videos one is a picture slideshow and 
the other is a short video.  My youtube name is A390652.  The videos are titled 
k2backlit in action and k2 backlight details.

WT5Y


Sent from my Cricket smartphone
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question 2 - remote power control

2014-05-26 Thread Jim - KE8G
Hi Michael,
>From the way you are describing things, I would suspect you have a problem 
>somewhere other than the KPA500.

With my remote setup:
RS232, straight serial, no USB-to-serial
KPA500,
KPA500 software (not the utility),  are you using this software?  Here's a 
link, scroll down about midway to the Remote Software.  
http://www.elecraft.com/k2_remote.htm

I control the software via Chrome Remote desktop and it will power on & off all 
day long without missing a beat.

Question, why are you concerned with turning off all the AC to the amp?

73 de Jim - KE8G

 Michael Walker  wrote: 
> I wish I could say it works for me.  It isn't a com port issue as those are
> solid (I know what I am doing with RS232 and windows).
> 
> If I power off the AC power of the amp and then turn it on remotely it
> doesn't work.  It 'will' work after about 10-15 tries to wake it up.
> 
> So, to summarize:
> 
> KPA500 with the KPA500 utility
> Hardware RS232 port
> The ability to turn all AC power off to the amp remotel
> 
> You power off the amp without turning off the AC and you can't just turn it
> back on again without actually power cycling the AC a few times.
> 
> This shouldn't be that hard.  I'll have to talk to Elecraft tomorrow when
> they get in.  I'd hate to post a poor review on eHam.
> 
> mike va3mw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, KE8G  wrote:
> 
> > Hi Michael,
> > I, too, use the KPA500 remotely, and have no problem turning the power on
> > & off.
> >
> > I take it you have the KPA500 connected to a computer?  Did you download
> > the KPA500 software from the Elecraft web site?  This allows complete
> > monitoring and on/off operation.
> >
> > 73 de Jim - KE8G
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > > On May 25, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Michael Walker 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I have just installed my KPA500 on my remote base and I noticed that it
> > is
> > > possible to turn it off via the computer or via just dropping the AC
> > power
> > > and not getting it to come back on.
> > >
> > > This makes is sort of a challenge for remote operating.
> > >
> > > Is this normal operation or did I miss something obvious.
> > >
> > > 73 all
> > >
> > > Mike va3mw
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
> > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> > >
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> > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > > Message delivered to k...@cox.net
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question 2 - remote power control

2014-05-26 Thread Jack Brindle
Mike;

I guess you didn’t get the email I sent yesterday asking for more information 
from you about this topic. You might want to recheck for that email, there was 
a lot of good information in it.
Please send me detailed info about your setup, with specifics on the ACC 
connections and the data you are sending the KPA to try to turn in on.

Using the rear-panel switch on the KPA is the same as simply pulling the AC 
plug. When it is turned on, the low voltage power supply is enabled, placing 
the microcontroller into bootstrap mode. In this situation, sending a ‘P’ 
character to the KPA will cause it to come to life. This information is 
described in the KPA500 Programming Reference.

Now, if you would like to respond to my email, we will work with you to see if 
you can get your setup closer to the way you really want it.

Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering


On May 26, 2014, at 1:26 PM, Michael Walker  wrote:

> I wish I could say it works for me.  It isn't a com port issue as those are
> solid (I know what I am doing with RS232 and windows).
> 
> If I power off the AC power of the amp and then turn it on remotely it
> doesn't work.  It 'will' work after about 10-15 tries to wake it up.
> 
> So, to summarize:
> 
> KPA500 with the KPA500 utility
> Hardware RS232 port
> The ability to turn all AC power off to the amp remotel
> 
> You power off the amp without turning off the AC and you can't just turn it
> back on again without actually power cycling the AC a few times.
> 
> This shouldn't be that hard.  I'll have to talk to Elecraft tomorrow when
> they get in.  I'd hate to post a poor review on eHam.
> 
> mike va3mw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, KE8G  wrote:
> 
>> Hi Michael,
>> I, too, use the KPA500 remotely, and have no problem turning the power on
>> & off.
>> 
>> I take it you have the KPA500 connected to a computer?  Did you download
>> the KPA500 software from the Elecraft web site?  This allows complete
>> monitoring and on/off operation.
>> 
>> 73 de Jim - KE8G
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Michael Walker 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have just installed my KPA500 on my remote base and I noticed that it
>> is
>>> possible to turn it off via the computer or via just dropping the AC
>> power
>>> and not getting it to come back on.
>>> 
>>> This makes is sort of a challenge for remote operating.
>>> 
>>> Is this normal operation or did I miss something obvious.
>>> 
>>> 73 all
>>> 
>>> Mike va3mw
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to k...@cox.net
>> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question 2 - remote power control

2014-05-26 Thread Michael Walker
I wish I could say it works for me.  It isn't a com port issue as those are
solid (I know what I am doing with RS232 and windows).

If I power off the AC power of the amp and then turn it on remotely it
doesn't work.  It 'will' work after about 10-15 tries to wake it up.

So, to summarize:

KPA500 with the KPA500 utility
Hardware RS232 port
The ability to turn all AC power off to the amp remotel

You power off the amp without turning off the AC and you can't just turn it
back on again without actually power cycling the AC a few times.

This shouldn't be that hard.  I'll have to talk to Elecraft tomorrow when
they get in.  I'd hate to post a poor review on eHam.

mike va3mw






On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, KE8G  wrote:

> Hi Michael,
> I, too, use the KPA500 remotely, and have no problem turning the power on
> & off.
>
> I take it you have the KPA500 connected to a computer?  Did you download
> the KPA500 software from the Elecraft web site?  This allows complete
> monitoring and on/off operation.
>
> 73 de Jim - KE8G
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On May 25, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Michael Walker 
> wrote:
> >
> > I have just installed my KPA500 on my remote base and I noticed that it
> is
> > possible to turn it off via the computer or via just dropping the AC
> power
> > and not getting it to come back on.
> >
> > This makes is sort of a challenge for remote operating.
> >
> > Is this normal operation or did I miss something obvious.
> >
> > 73 all
> >
> > Mike va3mw
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Message delivered to k...@cox.net
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

I assume you are using the Heil ProSet with the HC4 or HC5 or HC6 
element (which have quite low output) - if it is a ProSet-iC or the 
ProSet-K2, you will need bias turned on (and ignore the following 
paragraph).


You may have to use the Hi mic gain range with the HC4/5/6 microphone - 
go to the MIC GAIN setting and tap [1] to toggle from low to high.  See 
page 47 in the K3 Owner's Manual.
Is there any chance that you have bias turned on when using that 
microphone.  If so, that will run current through the mic element 
reducing its sensitivity.


Then back the compression to zero, put the K3 into TX TEST so no RF is 
developed and adjust the mic gain for 5 to 7 bars on the ALC scale.  
After that, increase the compression setting as you desire.


Make certain you are using the peak reading setting on your wattmeter 
and you should see the same amount of power for SSB as you are seeing 
for CW.
If both CW and SSB are lower than the requested power, do the TXG 
calibration.


As for a desk microphone, any of the Kenwood mics will plug into the 
front panel.  Do not use the amplified Kenwood mics unless you can turn 
the mic amplifier off.


Another choice that will work well is to use one of the desk type 
computer microphones - plug it into the rear mic jack and turn bias on.



On 5/26/2014 2:39 PM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:

I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But
then, I better ask first.

The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and
mic and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.

I have adjusted TXG up to 3.

Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10%
of (A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW

And I have mic at 60 and cmp at 40.

What is a "Great" desk mike for the K3? Anyway, I am tired of the boom
mic so wanted a desk mic and this may be a good reason.




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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Bill W2BLC
Almost any microphone can be made to sound good on the K3. You just have 
to play with the equalizer, gain, and comp settings. I recommend you 
have a single trusted ham work with you on a closed band while making 
your adjustments.


If you have more than one helper, they will argue about what sounds good 
or bad.


Personally, I use the OEM Heil mic made for Elecraft. The PTT switch is 
trash, but the element is a good sounder and the case is solid. I merely 
did some creative plastic surgery on the case and installed a Heil 
"square PTT" switch and all crunching and clicking noise vanished. I 
also have an MC60 - which is too a great sounder.


Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV



Since you're replacing a headset look for the Yamaha CM-500.  They're
generally $60 or so at places like B&H Photovideo, Sweetwater, Amazon,
etc.  They are more comfortable than the old Heil Proset and half the
price.  If you watch for sales they're even less (I replaced a ProSet
with two CM-500 for less than what Heil wanted for the current ProSet)
The mic works very well with the K3 ... set the bottom two TX EQ bands
to -16 and the top three to +3, +5, +6 (a rising 3 dB/octave above
800 Hz).

I adjust the mic gain for 5 bars and run CMP between 15 an 20 dB.  The
audio sounds good according to reports and there is plenty of "talk
power."

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
KD7YZ
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 11:40 AM
To: K3 List
Subject: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But then, I
better ask first.

The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and mic
and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.

I have adjusted TXG up to 3.

Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10% of
(A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW

And I have mic at 60 and cmp at 40.

What is a "Great" desk mike for the K3? Anyway, I am tired of the boom mic
so wanted a desk mic and this may be a good reason.

thanks


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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft
 Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10%
of (A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW   


10% of Average, or Peak Envelope Power? 

Are you using  a PEP Watt meter? 


73 Milverton.



On Monday, May 26, 2014 1:44 PM, Bob KD7YZ  wrote:
 

>
>
>I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But
>then, I better ask first.
>
>The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and
>mic and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.
>
>I have adjusted TXG up to 3.
>
>Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10%
>of (A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW
>
>And I have mic at 60 and cmp at 40.
>
>What is a "Great" desk mike for the K3? Anyway, I am tired of the boom
>mic so wanted a desk mic and this may be a good reason.
>
>thanks
>-- 
>
>Bob KD7YZ
>AMSAT LM 0901
>http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
>www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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Re: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Mike Flowers
I get good reports out of an old Kenwood MC-60 desk mic.   I had one kicking
around from my Kenwood days and noticed it had an 8-pin mic connector, so
thought I'd give it a shot.   Worked great with some minor adjustments.

Make sure the bottom switch for 'Mic Amp' is in the out position.   A bonus
is the 'Down - Up' rocker switch that is great for fine frequency
adjustments.

I use this macro to set up the K3 for the MC-60:

MN053;DN;DN;MG009;CP014;ML010;TE+14+14+08+06+08+10+12+00;MN255;



- 73 de Mike, K6MKF, W6NAG, Secretary - NCDXC, IDXG, ADXG, RRC #933,
K3-P3-KPA500-KAT500 Addict, Maui


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
KD7YZ
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 11:40 AM
To: K3 List
Subject: [Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But then, I
better ask first.

The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and mic
and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.

I have adjusted TXG up to 3.

Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10% of
(A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW

And I have mic at 60 and cmp at 40.

What is a "Great" desk mike for the K3? Anyway, I am tired of the boom mic
so wanted a desk mic and this may be a good reason.

thanks
-- 

Bob KD7YZ
AMSAT LM 0901
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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[Elecraft] Xmit Audio Problem

2014-05-26 Thread Bob KD7YZ
I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But
then, I better ask first.

The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and
mic and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.

I have adjusted TXG up to 3.

Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10%
of (A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW

And I have mic at 60 and cmp at 40.

What is a "Great" desk mike for the K3? Anyway, I am tired of the boom
mic so wanted a desk mic and this may be a good reason.

thanks
-- 

Bob KD7YZ
AMSAT LM 0901
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No int. spkr audio

2014-05-26 Thread Petr Ourednik
Hi Don,

Mni thanks! I am going to check it with daddy by phone call. Hope it
will not be anything worse...
He is nervous that his K2 is sick. :(

I will let You know abt results. 

73 - Petr, ok1rp


On Mon, May 26, 2014, at 04:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Petr,
> 
> The most likely cause is the switch lever inside the headphone jack.  
> The switch is the 3 contacts closest to the rear of the K2 RF Board.
> 
> Replacement of the headphone jack is the normal fix (Elecraft PN
> E620028).
> 
> If you want to try a temporary fix (the speaker will be active all the 
> time), you can solder a jumper between the center solder pad of that 
> switch to the solder pad to the right.
> While you have that temporary fix in place, the speaker can be silenced 
> by placing an unwired 3.5mm plug (either mono or stereo) into the 
> external speaker jack.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 5/26/2014 10:33 AM, Petr Ourednik wrote:
> > Hello
> >
> > Sorry for bothering with maybe stupid task...
> >
> > My daddy called me this morning that he has no audio on his K2 from
> > internal speaker. When he plug in the phones it works. (Yda evening int.
> > spkr worked too)
> >
> > Is it the problem of switching contact inside of the Phones socket on
> > the front panel or it can be issue somewhere else please?
> >
> > I have no K2 on the table and I did not found so much in the manual...:(
> >
> > Thank You for hints.
> >
> > 73 - Petr, ok1rp
> > K2/4800
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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[Elecraft] K2 MAB

2014-05-26 Thread Thomas Taylor
For those hams who are still expressing interest in the K2 MAB you might want
to contact:

Doug Shields  W4DAS
Stuart, Florida

I sent him all the information regarding this project as he expressed a desire
to take over the project due to my health issues.

73 & thanks, Tom  KG7CFC


-- 
Nobody grows old by merely living a number of years.  People grow old only by
deserting their ideals. - Douglas MacArthur

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  --.  --...  -.-.  ..-.  -.-.


Tom Taylor  KG7CFC
openSUSE 13.1 (64-bit), Kernel 3.11.6-4-default,
KDE 4.11.2, AMD Phenom X4 955, GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Nvidia 325.15)
16GB RAM -- 3x1.5TB sata2 -- 128GB-SSD
FF 27.0, claws-mail 3.9.2
registered linux user 263467
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[Elecraft] Wanted to buy: PR6 or PR 6-10 preamp

2014-05-26 Thread Brian Hemmis

> Wanted: Elecraft PR6 or PR 6-10 preamp for K3.
> Let me know what you have.
> Brian K3USC (since 1962)
> k3...@arrl.net

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[Elecraft] Andrew L4NM Assembly Instructions

2014-05-26 Thread Terry Hines
Does anyone have the assembly instructions for the old Andrew L4NM “N” male
connector for Andrew ½ hardline. The L4NM is an obsolete connector and has
replaced by the L4NM-C. The connector I have has the separate silver pin
that is soldered to the end of the cable center conductor and then assembled
into the body of the connector much like a standard “N” connector. The
center conductor of the newer connector version is not soldered but is held
in compression against the center pin much like the Eupen connector system.

 

None of the sites I searched have a copy of the instructions posted.

 

73s, v/r   terry  N4ZH

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Apartment/condo antenna

2014-05-26 Thread Phil Hystad
Apartment antenna ideas:

I knew of a guy in a second floor apartment that ran an end-fed long wire out 
of his apartment deck railing.  It was an almost invisible wire (from the 
ground looking up into the sky) that ran out to a tree on the other side of the 
parking lot.  He would use the railing itself (metal) as a ground and often 
dangle another wire down to almost ground level during his night-time romps 
into the 80-meter band.  I used to regularly chat with him on 80 meters and his 
signal was usually Q5 copy.

Another nearby friend lived with his wife in a ground level apartment at the 
end of the building complex.  Next to the complex where he lived was a stand of 
fir and cedar trees.  He ran coax out along the ground, through a drainage pipe 
under a walkway and then through tall weeds and grass to the trees where he had 
strung up some wires.  Actually, he had some help from his wife in stringing up 
some of the wires into the trees because he was legally blind (he could see 
only up very close).   He also had some ground wire counterpoise to his long 
wire style antenna.  He had no trouble with 80 and 40 meters.  I am not sure 
how he did on the other bands.  And, he has since moved where he now has "real" 
antennas.

Apartment antennas often work quite well but it also an opportunity to get 
creative in your antenna ideas.  Yes, you can probably load up that balcony 
railing -- better yet, if you are on a building with a string of separate but 
similar balconies then surreptitiously wire them together in a horizontal 
string to create a kind of lumped horizontal antenna.  Surely that would get a 
signal out (and, maybe into everyone's TV set too).

73, phil, K7PEH



On May 26, 2014, at 7:34 AM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> I wonder which bands Dave G. plans to work?
> 
> Phil w7ox
> 
> On 5/25/14, 6:37 PM, David Patino wrote:
>> I have a MFJ 1622 and am on a 2nd floor apartment. It actually works quite 
>> well clamped to my balcony railing, as long as the counterpoise is run out 
>> correctly. That's actually the biggest problem with my area. It's a bit hard 
>> to hide the counterpoise since it has to go down to the ground first and 
>> vegetation around here is sparse. I've tried it in vertical position inside 
>> my balcony, and while I was still able to make some contacts on HT65, it was 
>> better with it clamped to the railing and sticking out.
>> 
>> The MFJ might be a bit big to pass off as a flag pole though. The coil 
>> portion is about as big around as a soda can and with the whip extended the 
>> total length is around 70" long.
>> 
>> I've heard good things about the MFJ Super Hi-Q loop antennas.. they can be 
>> mounted vertically inside the balcony area. They are bit pricey compared to 
>> the 1622 though.
>> 
>> 73's, Dave
>> N9PBJ
>> 
>> On 5/25/2014 7:53 PM, David Guernsey via Elecraft wrote:
>>> I am moving to a condo on the 2nd floor of a brick and concrete building.  
>>> The condo rules do not allow anything to extend over the balcony railings.  
>>> However, they do allow flag pole to be "clamped" to the railing of the 
>>> balcony. I have considered an mfj 1622 antenna inside of a pvc pipe as my 
>>> flag pole.  Any ideas?
>>> 
>>>  73 de Dave KJ6CBS
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Activity in ancient 15-meter novice band (21.1 MHz)

2014-05-26 Thread Tighe Kuykendall
I resemble that slow code remark...  As a relatively new licensee (about 
14yrs), I never did much with CW other than pass the code element for 
General.  Lately I've been making an effort to get more proficient with 
CW, as in haven't used a mic in at least 2 months other than a couple of 
local 10m rag chews.  I find myself dragging my KX3 around with me 
everywhere I go, so thanks to Elecraft for designing such a capable yet 
portable rig.


My sincerest thanks to all those that stop by the slow code portions of 
the bands to help others learn and improve!


Tighe
NK4I


On 5/25/2014 4:43 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:

Yes, 15M was also my favorite band as a Novice.

It may be "ancient" but it's still active, and still an official band
segment for Novice/Techs (21.025-21.200 MHz). The same goes for the
Novice/Tech segment of 40M (7.025-7.125). There is a lot of activity at the
top end of the old Novice segment of 40M. You can often find relatively slow
code CW QSOs from 7.120-7.125.

Stop in and work these stations! There are many who frequent these segments.
I know many FISTS and SKCC members who hang out in these areas. Some other
folks are working on getting their code speed up. Not because they _have
to_, but because they want to. I know a few "lifetime" Novices, that are
active, but have no intention of upgrading.




--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No int. spkr audio

2014-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

The most likely cause is the switch lever inside the headphone jack.  
The switch is the 3 contacts closest to the rear of the K2 RF Board.


Replacement of the headphone jack is the normal fix (Elecraft PN E620028).

If you want to try a temporary fix (the speaker will be active all the 
time), you can solder a jumper between the center solder pad of that 
switch to the solder pad to the right.
While you have that temporary fix in place, the speaker can be silenced 
by placing an unwired 3.5mm plug (either mono or stereo) into the 
external speaker jack.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/26/2014 10:33 AM, Petr Ourednik wrote:

Hello

Sorry for bothering with maybe stupid task...

My daddy called me this morning that he has no audio on his K2 from
internal speaker. When he plug in the phones it works. (Yda evening int.
spkr worked too)

Is it the problem of switching contact inside of the Phones socket on
the front panel or it can be issue somewhere else please?

I have no K2 on the table and I did not found so much in the manual...:(

Thank You for hints.

73 - Petr, ok1rp
K2/4800
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna choices

2014-05-26 Thread AG0N-3055

> The 3 element is infinitely tunable and will give  you near perfect
> performance on all bands 40 and above.

> You will need a rotor.  You don't need a huge investment however, they
> work well with the commonly available Ham IV rotors.  Lots of reliable
> and attractively priced used ones on the market.

These two statements are conflicting.  If you're going to have a StepIR
that will go down to 40 meters, you aren't going to want a Ham IV on it.
That's way too light, for this country anyway.  In fact, a T-Twister
isn't enough for that.  If you were going to limit it to 30 and above, I
might go with a T-Twister, but I really feel my TH7DX tri-bander puts
mine through more than it wants.  It needs to be rebuilt now and then.
StepIRs are heavy too, at least the ones I've seen.  But you're right.
It's really nice to have the tunable frequency range

Did you follow his link?  He's got tons of space and can put up wire for
anything out to 160M dipoles, with a single support tower or pole.
Further, he can go almost any direction with wires without having to
weave in and out of tree branches, etc.  I sure wouldn't mess with
anything like a G5RV or OCF in that situation.  The gold standard basic
antenna on the lower bands is a simple half wave dipole.  He's got room
to do that down to 160M.  Why go with less?  On upper bands, a ground
plane does wonders, but a simple 3 element yagi is excellent.  

Gary
-- 
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] The Old 15 Meter - or 21 Mc - Band

2014-05-26 Thread Brian Alsop
I wonder if the probability of being an future avid DXer depended upon 
whether one was first licensed near a sunspot peak or sunspot minimum?


For me the working of a WH6 on 40M just before school was the clincher.

Ruined a bunch of FT-243 xtals trying to grind them down for near the 
Novice 15 and 40 M band lower edges.


Worst DX: "Working" the FCC when supposedly on 80M but bandswitch on 
40M.  So being crystal controlled didn't mean you couldn't operate 
outside the Novice bands...


73 de Brian/K3KO

On 5/26/2014 14:31, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Me too!  For me it was 1957 - the peak of the best sunspot cycle ever.
Every morning before going to school I was in my cellar ham "shack"
working my way through the rest of the world on 21.1+ with a DX-20, a
dipole, an HQ-100, and a QTH right at the ocean's edge.  DXing like
shooting fish in a barrel.  Great fun.  The Novice license in those days
was valid for one year and NON-renewable.  It was one year, then up or
out.  (I was KN1CBR then, became K1CBR later, then went back to KN1CBR
when vanity calls became available, purely as a matter of nostalgia.)
These days I am recapturing some of it - but not the technical primitivity
- with my KX3 and indoor dipole (at 21.02 Mhz) in an urban condo in
Denver.  Still great fun!

Ted, KN1CBR






-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3722/7061 - Release Date: 05/26/14

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Re: [Elecraft] The Old 15 Meter - or 21 Mc - Band

2014-05-26 Thread Phil Wheeler
I can relate to all of this. And I cannot recall a 
worse sunspot cycle than the one we have now.


Phil W7OX

On 5/26/14, 7:31 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Me too!  For me it was 1957 - the peak of the best sunspot cycle ever.
Every morning before going to school I was in my cellar ham "shack"
working my way through the rest of the world on 21.1+ with a DX-20, a
dipole, an HQ-100, and a QTH right at the ocean's edge.  DXing like
shooting fish in a barrel.  Great fun.  The Novice license in those days
was valid for one year and NON-renewable.  It was one year, then up or
out.  (I was KN1CBR then, became K1CBR later, then went back to KN1CBR
when vanity calls became available, purely as a matter of nostalgia.)
These days I am recapturing some of it - but not the technical primitivity
- with my KX3 and indoor dipole (at 21.02 Mhz) in an urban condo in
Denver.  Still great fun!

Ted, KN1CBR

--

Message: 25
Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 22:43:05 -0400
From: Barry LaZar 
To: k...@yahoogroups.com, Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Activity in ancient 15-meter novice band
(21.1   MHz)
Message-ID: <5382aa39.4080...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Wayne,
 I remember that band. It was my favorite even though I wasn't a
novice. I met some of the friendliest hams in the world there, to
include some great DX.

73,
Barry
K3NDM


On 5/25/2014 4:03 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com [KX3] wrote:

Thanks to the PX3 panadapter and the CQ WW CW contest, I just made my
first QSO in at least three decades in the legacy 21.1 MHz U.S.
Novice-license segment. I didn't expect activity to spread upward that
far, but sure enough, blips appeared on the PX3 above 21.1, and I was
able to make a quick QSO with WK1Q using 12 W (KX3 barefoot).

This brought back a lot of memories. 21.1-21.15 was my favorite place
to hang out back in the 1970s, when I was crystal-controlled on
transmit, using a Heath HW-16. In those days I had a home-rolled
2-element 15-meter yogi made from 1/2-inch steel pipe and 2x4s. Must
have weighed 40 pounds. Fortunately, my patient stepfather knew that
getting that antenna up would keep me out of trouble (I was 15 at the
time).

Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Apartment/condo antenna

2014-05-26 Thread Phil Wheeler

I wonder which bands Dave G. plans to work?

Phil w7ox

On 5/25/14, 6:37 PM, David Patino wrote:
I have a MFJ 1622 and am on a 2nd floor 
apartment. It actually works quite well clamped 
to my balcony railing, as long as the 
counterpoise is run out correctly. That's 
actually the biggest problem with my area. It's 
a bit hard to hide the counterpoise since it has 
to go down to the ground first and vegetation 
around here is sparse. I've tried it in vertical 
position inside my balcony, and while I was 
still able to make some contacts on HT65, it was 
better with it clamped to the railing and 
sticking out.


The MFJ might be a bit big to pass off as a flag 
pole though. The coil portion is about as big 
around as a soda can and with the whip extended 
the total length is around 70" long.


I've heard good things about the MFJ Super Hi-Q 
loop antennas.. they can be mounted vertically 
inside the balcony area. They are bit pricey 
compared to the 1622 though.


73's, Dave
N9PBJ

On 5/25/2014 7:53 PM, David Guernsey via 
Elecraft wrote:
I am moving to a condo on the 2nd floor of a 
brick and concrete building.  The condo rules 
do not allow anything to extend over the 
balcony railings.  However, they do allow flag 
pole to be "clamped" to the railing of the 
balcony. I have considered an mfj 1622 antenna 
inside of a pvc pipe as my flag pole.  Any ideas?


  73 de Dave KJ6CBS


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[Elecraft] [K2] No int. spkr audio

2014-05-26 Thread Petr Ourednik
Hello

Sorry for bothering with maybe stupid task...

My daddy called me this morning that he has no audio on his K2 from
internal speaker. When he plug in the phones it works. (Yda evening int.
spkr worked too) 

Is it the problem of switching contact inside of the Phones socket on
the front panel or it can be issue somewhere else please?

I have no K2 on the table and I did not found so much in the manual...:(

Thank You for hints. 

73 - Petr, ok1rp
K2/4800
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[Elecraft] The Old 15 Meter - or 21 Mc - Band

2014-05-26 Thread Dauer, Edward
Me too!  For me it was 1957 - the peak of the best sunspot cycle ever.
Every morning before going to school I was in my cellar ham "shack"
working my way through the rest of the world on 21.1+ with a DX-20, a
dipole, an HQ-100, and a QTH right at the ocean's edge.  DXing like
shooting fish in a barrel.  Great fun.  The Novice license in those days
was valid for one year and NON-renewable.  It was one year, then up or
out.  (I was KN1CBR then, became K1CBR later, then went back to KN1CBR
when vanity calls became available, purely as a matter of nostalgia.)
These days I am recapturing some of it - but not the technical primitivity
- with my KX3 and indoor dipole (at 21.02 Mhz) in an urban condo in
Denver.  Still great fun!

Ted, KN1CBR
>
>--
>
>Message: 25
>Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 22:43:05 -0400
>From: Barry LaZar 
>To: k...@yahoogroups.com, Elecraft Reflector 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Activity in ancient 15-meter novice band
>   (21.1   MHz)
>Message-ID: <5382aa39.4080...@comcast.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Wayne,
> I remember that band. It was my favorite even though I wasn't a
>novice. I met some of the friendliest hams in the world there, to
>include some great DX.
>
>73,
>Barry
>K3NDM
>
>
>On 5/25/2014 4:03 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com [KX3] wrote:
>>
>> Thanks to the PX3 panadapter and the CQ WW CW contest, I just made my
>> first QSO in at least three decades in the legacy 21.1 MHz U.S.
>> Novice-license segment. I didn't expect activity to spread upward that
>> far, but sure enough, blips appeared on the PX3 above 21.1, and I was
>> able to make a quick QSO with WK1Q using 12 W (KX3 barefoot).
>>
>> This brought back a lot of memories. 21.1-21.15 was my favorite place
>> to hang out back in the 1970s, when I was crystal-controlled on
>> transmit, using a Heath HW-16. In those days I had a home-rolled
>> 2-element 15-meter yogi made from 1/2-inch steel pipe and 2x4s. Must
>> have weighed 40 pounds. Fortunately, my patient stepfather knew that
>> getting that antenna up would keep me out of trouble (I was 15 at the
>> time).
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>> __._,_.___
>> 

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[Elecraft] KX3 2m-Transverter, shipping list

2014-05-26 Thread Hans H Vollmer

Hi fellow Elecrafters,

is there a shippinglist for the KX3-2m-Transverter available?

73 de Hans, DF5SR
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with dual whips (HF and VHF), hammock mobile

2014-05-26 Thread pkhjr via Elecraft
My problem is I would not be able to put down the Jack Reacher novel

Tex 
KA5Y



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Re: [Elecraft] Apartment/condo antenna

2014-05-26 Thread Barry
Hard to believe that MFJ antenna is an efficient radiator.  My balcony is
fairly large and I have a fan dipole on it, supported in the center and one
end with 8 ft long 3/4" EMT tubing in paint buckets filled with gravel, and
at the other end by the partition separating my balcony from my neighbor's. 
It works reasonably well and has only fallen over twice in 5 years, due to
heavy, wet snow clinging to the wires - and picking it back up took about 5
minutes.  There's a pic on my qrz.com page.
Barry W2UP



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[Elecraft] 15 meters

2014-05-26 Thread John's email
The 15 m Novice band was the band of choice for me back in the day. I wasn't 
sophisticated enough to have a HW 16. I worked those contacts with a DX 60 and 
an HR 10. I too, had a home brew 15 meter Yagi but it was aluminum, no wood! 
How far have we come! Unfortunately, i couldn't fire up the K3 as we had 
thunderstorms a good portion of the day. No radio. But at least we got a rare 
rainstorm   BTW, Wayne, I have a 15 meter Long John 5 element 26 foot boom 
sitting on the ground next to my tower. It would make your KX3 reach out a bit 
better than your 10m whip!

John KE4D

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna choices

2014-05-26 Thread George Thornton
I have tried a number of different things over the years.  I have finally 
settled on a 3 element Steppir.  I got it used and paid half the cost of new, 
so it was not exorbitant.  With a little care they can be made to function as 
good as new.

The 3 element stepper and K3 are a potent mix. I can get pretty much everywhere 
and am able to get through most pileups with 100 watts,   I find I really don't 
need an amp.  

The 3 element is infinitely tunable and will give  you near perfect performance 
on all bands 40 and above.  You can add an inverted V under the tower to get 
down to 80 meters.  

You will need a rotor.  You don't need a huge investment however, they work 
well with the commonly available Ham IV rotors.  Lots of reliable and 
attractively priced used ones on the market.

I would put my money into the antenna instead of the amp.

The 3mOriginal Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter 
Underwo
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 201
> Joshua Gould
> K8WXA't 
> 
>  
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 8:56 PM, Walter Underwood  
> wrote:
> That is several very big questions, and enough that I suggest getting a copy 
> of the ARRL Antenna Book and reading before spending much money. And talking 
> to a lot of hams that already have towers.
> 
> Multi-band Yagi antennas are multi-band, but not wideband. They are tuned for 
> specific bands, like 20m or 15m. They do not work well on bands they are not 
> designed for.
> 
> A vertical on a tower might give a few dB of gain (on the bands it is 
> designed for). A Yagi (beam) will typically give 10dB or so of gain on each 
> band it is designed for.
> 
> The G5RV works for a lot of people, but it is a compromise on many bands, and 
> could cause problems when run with high power (500W).


> 
> Since you are going to the bother of putting up a tower, I'd also put up 
> dipoles cut for most of the lower bands and feed them from a common point. 
> This is called a fan dipole or parallel dipole. If you'd like that pre-cut 
> for you, I recommend Hy-Power Antenna (http://www.hypowerantenna.com/).
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/
> 
> On May 25, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Joshua Gould  wrote:
> 
> > Ok, I know that this is a topic much like the Ford vs. Chevy debates 
> > or the Android vs. Apple debates, but I do have a few questions...
> >
> > I am going to be acquiring a 56 foot Rohn BX tower.  I already have 
> > a G5RV that I am planning on putting up (still not sure where I'm 
> > going to attach the other end of it to, One end will go on the 
> > tower.) I'm going to put up a 2m/440 vertical at some point up near 
> > the top of the tower.  I keep throwing around an HF vertical or a 
> > beam.  The verticals seem to cover more bands, but the beams are 
> > directional.  (Would also need a rotor,..
> >
> > Can a multi band yagi be tuned to a different band, or will it only 
> > work on the bands that it's designed for?
> >
> > I'm thinking long term and I'll probably be adding a K3/100 with a 
> > KPA500 to the mix in the next year or so...  Trying to figure out 
> > what will give me the best bang for my buck, so to speak.
> >
> > 73,
> > Joshua Gould
> > K8WXA
> > __
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> >
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> > email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> > wun...@wunderwood.org
> 
> --
> Walter Underwood
> wun...@wunderwood.org
> 
> 
> 
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> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> jg.k8...@gmail.com
> 

--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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