[Elecraft] SSB net cancelled

2014-06-29 Thread Phil Shepard
The weekly SSB is cancelled this week due to Field day.  See you next week.

CQFD

73,
Phil, NS7P
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 Utility v1.14.11 CONFUSION and HELP!

2014-06-29 Thread Esquer Dave
New KXPA100 (with 100w internal ATU) for KX3 owner. I have the KX3 and KXPA100 
hooked up with the Elecraft supplied cables.

In the Amplifier section of the utility, when using the KXPA utility, why is 
the PA Bypass box checked? I understand the Attenuator box being unchecked.

In the Anntenna Tuner section, the Tune button (on the right) does not tune the 
rig, it just causes the 25w LED to blink. No noise is heard from the ATU. I 
have to physically hit the ATU tune button on the KX3 to retune.

Finally, in the same Antenna Tuner section, why is the ATU Bypassed check box 
(below the Mode options) checked when the Mode box is set to Auto?

I’m doing something wrong, please help this newbie.
Dave, K6WDE
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

2014-06-29 Thread Mike VE3YF

Tnx to all who responded.

The module has been found. Tnx.


73 De Mike
VE3YF

http://www.ve3yf.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Utility v1.14.11 CONFUSION and HELP!

2014-06-29 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Good morning, Dave!

PA bypass is controlled by the KX3 power setting and ATU tune. If you have 
selected a power level below 10 watts with the KX3 power control, the KX3 
bypasses the amp.  The PA is also bypassed during ATU tuning. If you don't have 
the KX3 in PA mode ON and the ATU is not tuning, the PA should initialize in 
not bypassed at power on. In PA mode the KX3 power control should go up to 
100 watts or so. 

Pressing the ATU tune button causes the KXPA100 to begin tuning.  It blinks the 
25w to indicate tuning in progress.  But now it needs a few watts of steady RF 
to measure SWR.  You need to turn on the transmitter at this point.  The amp 
TUNE button is intended mostly for transceivers other than the KX3.  With the 
KX3, with PA mode on, the KX3 sends a command that effectively presses the 
KXPA100 TUNE button, then the KX3 turns on its transmitter, and the ATU steps 
through relay settings.  The KX3 periodically asks the amp if it is done 
tuning, and when it is, the KX3 stops sending carrier.  If you don't have a 
KX3, or choose not to use the connecting cable or PA mode is not ON, then 
you'll need to somehow key the transmitter to provide a few watts until ATU 
tune completes.

The ATU is bypassed if the match is good enough without the ATU.  If you tune 
into a dummy load, often the best setting is ATU bypassed.  My 20 meter 
antenna offers a very low SWR in the low end.  But in the phone band the SWR 
rises.  I have tuned at several places in the band.  At the low end, the best 
tuning solution is bypassed, and that tuning solution is memorized so when I 
return there it selects that setting, in mode MAN, based on a frequency count.  
In the phone band, the tuning solution uses tuner reactances to show the amp a 
low SWR.

After you have tuned the ATU in several places in the band, I'd recommend you 
switch the ATU to mode MAN.

73 de Dick, K6KR



 On Jun 29, 2014, at 2:36, Esquer Dave dave.esq...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 New KXPA100 (with 100w internal ATU) for KX3 owner. I have the KX3 and 
 KXPA100 hooked up with the Elecraft supplied cables.
 
 In the Amplifier section of the utility, when using the KXPA utility, why is 
 the PA Bypass box checked? I understand the Attenuator box being unchecked.
 
 In the Anntenna Tuner section, the Tune button (on the right) does not tune 
 the rig, it just causes the 25w LED to blink. No noise is heard from the ATU. 
 I have to physically hit the ATU tune button on the KX3 to retune.
 
 Finally, in the same Antenna Tuner section, why is the ATU Bypassed check box 
 (below the Mode options) checked when the Mode box is set to Auto?
 
 I’m doing something wrong, please help this newbie.
 Dave, K6WDE
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[Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-29 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft
Most people would think we're well into Summer.  Not here in the High 
Rockies.  Summer here has just begun.  Time to mend some fences.  Now 
the point: I just pulled about a mile of #11 soft drawn aluminum wire - 
mostly in 50' to 100' lengths.  Normally its electrified and the cattle 
won't touch it.  But last year the charger died and the cattle just 
shredded the wire to get into my grassy meadow.


So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away.  
So I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a 
vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' or 
so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the 
vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 150'.


So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in 
terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this reflector 
that real know a lot about this sort of thing.


Thanks  73,

Doug -- K0DXV
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-29 Thread Ray Sills

HI Doug:

I assume you are talking about a vertical mounted on the ground.  If  
so, you might want to consider extending it a bit to 43 feet.. some  
feel that length works well on bands from 80 through 10 meters.  I'f  
not ever done that, so I don't know.


But I have used base loaded verticals in years past.  Some have said  
for a ground mounted vertical, you need at least 16 radials.  If you  
can make them as long as the vertical, that'd good, but even half that  
size is good.  More radials is better.  And length is not critical..  
so you can just use whatever sizes you have.


If you elevate the radials... then length is critical, and you would  
want four radials every 90º for each band of interest.


Glad to hear you want to put that AL wire to good use.  :)

73 de Ray
K2ULR



On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:07 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

Most people would think we're well into Summer.  Not here in the  
High Rockies.  Summer here has just begun.  Time to mend some  
fences.  Now the point: I just pulled about a mile of #11 soft drawn  
aluminum wire - mostly in 50' to 100' lengths.  Normally its  
electrified and the cattle won't touch it.  But last year the  
charger died and the cattle just shredded the wire to get into my  
grassy meadow.


So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw  
away.  So I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and  
putting up a vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to  
make about 38' or so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at  
the base of the vertical as the length of coax to reach it will  
probably be at least 150'.


So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in  
terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this  
reflector that real know a lot about this sort of thing.


Thanks  73,

Doug -- K0DXV
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-29 Thread Fred Jensen

On 6/29/2014 12:07 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:


So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away. So
I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a
vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' or
so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the
vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 150'.


I assume you mean a ground-mounted vertical?


So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in
terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this reflector
that real know a lot about this sort of thing.


I know just about enough to get in trouble.  That said,

There is a small Cult of the 43 ft Vertical in ham radio ... 
ground-mounted, ATU remoted at the base, with a ground-plane.   If 38' 
or so means getting to 43 ft, great.  If not, there really isn't a huge 
amount of magic in 43 except that it's a prime.  You have two choices:


1.  Bury [like 6 inches deep] as many wires as you can, radiating out 
from the base of the antenna in all directions.  Length is not critical 
but at least 1/4 wave on your lowest frequency is good, nor do they all 
need to be the same length.  They don't even need to be straight. 
Ground planes for AM broadcast stations will often have one radial every 
degree around the vertical.


2.  Elevate them a foot or two off the ground.  In this case, length 
*does* matter, you'll need a few [like 4?] a little over 1/4 wave long 
for each of the bands you'll be using it on.  This will likely also trip 
your cows.


Ground-mounted verticals, at frequencies where they are about 1/4 wave 
high will have fairly low angle radiation.  On higher frequencies where 
they are substantially longer electrically, they'll squirt your RF in 
several lobes, not all of which are useful.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-29 Thread Walter Underwood
There is a lot of work on number and length of radials. You can get a good 
ground with anything from 16 1/4 wave radials to 120 1/10 wave radials buried. 
Elevated 1/4 wave radials work well with only 2, though 4 is nice.

The experiments on this are either in the ARRL Antenna Book or the ON4UN Low 
Band book. I'll try and track it down.

You may have rocky, low-conductivity soil, so radials could be much more 
important.

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 29, 2014, at 12:35 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 On 6/29/2014 12:07 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
 
 So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away. So
 I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a
 vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' or
 so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the
 vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 150'.
 
 I assume you mean a ground-mounted vertical?
 
 So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in
 terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this reflector
 that real know a lot about this sort of thing.
 
 I know just about enough to get in trouble.  That said,
 
 There is a small Cult of the 43 ft Vertical in ham radio ... 
 ground-mounted, ATU remoted at the base, with a ground-plane.   If 38' or 
 so means getting to 43 ft, great.  If not, there really isn't a huge amount 
 of magic in 43 except that it's a prime.  You have two choices:
 
 1.  Bury [like 6 inches deep] as many wires as you can, radiating out from 
 the base of the antenna in all directions.  Length is not critical but at 
 least 1/4 wave on your lowest frequency is good, nor do they all need to be 
 the same length.  They don't even need to be straight. Ground planes for AM 
 broadcast stations will often have one radial every degree around the 
 vertical.
 
 2.  Elevate them a foot or two off the ground.  In this case, length *does* 
 matter, you'll need a few [like 4?] a little over 1/4 wave long for each of 
 the bands you'll be using it on.  This will likely also trip your cows.
 
 Ground-mounted verticals, at frequencies where they are about 1/4 wave high 
 will have fairly low angle radiation.  On higher frequencies where they are 
 substantially longer electrically, they'll squirt your RF in several lobes, 
 not all of which are useful.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
 - www.cqp.org
 
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-29 Thread Robert 'RC' Conley
Doug
I recommend that you read the articles by Butternut Antennas at the
included link http://www.bencher.com/pdf_download.html#tech_notes Dirty
little secrets will give you all the info that you'll need. I use an HF9V
w/160M coil ground mounted over 26 radials of 700'+ feet of wire.
RC KC5WA

--

Ham Radio!
IT IS MY ADDICTION
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

2014-06-29 Thread David Christ
I have been told that aluminum does not last very long in contact with the 
ground.  You might wish to verify whether burying aluminum is a good idea.

David K0LUM


On Jun 29, 2014, at 5:59 AM, Mike VE3YF m...@ve3yf.com wrote:

 Tnx to all who responded.
 
 The module has been found. Tnx.
 
 
 73 De Mike
 VE3YF
 
 http://www.ve3yf.com
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

2014-06-29 Thread Mike VE3YF

Actually it was in a Plastic Bag, so I think it had minimal contact.


73 De Mike
VE3YF

http://www.ve3yf.com
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

2014-06-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

Actually, aluminum will hold up OK in many soil conditions - although in 
highly acid soils, it will become rather brittle.
Squirrels and other rodents chewing on the aluminum wire is more of a 
problem.
So my conclusion is that if you want in-ground radials that will last 
for about 3 years, you can save over the cost of copper by using 
aluminum - make your long term choices depending on your ham budget.
If you are using elevated radials, aluminum is great - but put them high 
enough so that humans, deer and other animals can pass under them 
without harm to the radials or the beast.  If you are in an area where 
riders on horseback could pass, use plentiful warning signs.  My 
criteria is 10 feet above ground, but yours may vary.  I have lots of 
trees (we live in a forested area) , so buried radials are not practical 
due to tree roots, so I use electric fence insulators attached to the 
trees to support elevated radials.


For a good source of aluminum wire, look to suppliers of electric fence 
wire.  I use the 17 AWG size for my radials.


73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/29/2014 5:13 PM, David Christ wrote:

I have been told that aluminum does not last very long in contact with the 
ground.  You might wish to verify whether burying aluminum is a good idea.




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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

2014-06-29 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
Aluminum/Copper Alloys do not last long in the presence of Sodium Chloride 
which is present in most soil and plentiful in most water, particularly runoff 
and sea water.  The alloy use for fence wire should be usable for radials, but 
will not last as long as copper.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 29, 2014 6:34 PM, David Christ radio...@mchsi.com wrote:
 


I have been told that aluminum does not last very long in contact with the 
ground.  You might wish to verify whether burying aluminum is a good idea.

David K0LUM


On Jun 29, 2014, at 5:59 AM, Mike VE3YF m...@ve3yf.com wrote:

 Tnx to all who responded.
 
 The module has been found. Tnx.
 
 
 73 De Mike
 VE3YF
 
 http://www.ve3yf.com
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[Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-29 Thread Mike Lewis
So about 20 minutes prior to starting another successful Field Day with my
trusty K3 I powered it up for the first time after connecting everything had
just started some tests when my buddy starting yelling that I was letting
some of the magic smoke out of the radio. Sure enough, there was smoke
coming out of the back of the radio. I dived over and pulled the power. To
make a long story short, I was running an S9 31' vertical antenna base tuned
with an SG-231 autotuner, with the auto tuner powered over the coax using DC
blocks. The exact same config as I ran with last year with wonderful
results. Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 switched
supply right into the antenna jack. After the incident I powered back up
with my finger on the off switch to try to assess the level of damage. The
radio puts out some power, but the SWR is infinite even into a dummy load. I
am not sure of the status of the receiver input chain as I didn't want to
put it back onto a real antenna.

 

So I am just wondering before I open it up what kind of damage I might find
and what kind of options I might have for repair. Has anyone heard of this
sort of a bonehead mistake? Any ideas on what I might have fried? Given this
is a mechanical assembly only kit is there any chance any of the parts are
going to be user serviceable? I love the radio and I'm hoping it is at least
salvageable.

 

Thanks for any insights,

Mike/KE0MF

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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-29 Thread Robert Friess
Hi Mike,

Probably just smoked T4, the voltage sampling transformer in the SWR
bridge.  That's probably a simple repair.

73,
Bob, N6CM


On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 8:23 PM, Mike Lewis mlewi...@gmail.com wrote:

 So about 20 minutes prior to starting another successful Field Day with my
 trusty K3 I powered it up for the first time after connecting everything
 had
 just started some tests when my buddy starting yelling that I was letting
 some of the magic smoke out of the radio. Sure enough, there was smoke
 coming out of the back of the radio. I dived over and pulled the power. To
 make a long story short, I was running an S9 31' vertical antenna base
 tuned
 with an SG-231 autotuner, with the auto tuner powered over the coax using
 DC
 blocks. The exact same config as I ran with last year with wonderful
 results. Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed
 the
 DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 switched
 supply right into the antenna jack. After the incident I powered back up
 with my finger on the off switch to try to assess the level of damage. The
 radio puts out some power, but the SWR is infinite even into a dummy load.
 I
 am not sure of the status of the receiver input chain as I didn't want to
 put it back onto a real antenna.



 So I am just wondering before I open it up what kind of damage I might find
 and what kind of options I might have for repair. Has anyone heard of this
 sort of a bonehead mistake? Any ideas on what I might have fried? Given
 this
 is a mechanical assembly only kit is there any chance any of the parts are
 going to be user serviceable? I love the radio and I'm hoping it is at
 least
 salvageable.



 Thanks for any insights,

 Mike/KE0MF

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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

I am sorry to hear that you had such an incident.Unfortunately, you 
may not be alone in your woes.  Such events are not uncommon among Field 
Day reports.


The basic K3 is protected by a series reverse protection diode, and 
should be OK.  Unfortunately, there is not such protection for the KPA3 
because the added 0.3 volts drop of a diode rated at 20 amps is not 
practical.


I would expect that the damage is restricted to the KPA3, and may 
require replacement or major repair.  Contact customer support at 
k3supp...@elecraft.com to review your repair options.


There may also be damage to your SG-231 autotuner as well, but Elecraft 
customer support cannot help with that.  Try the K3 working into a 50 
ohm dummy load and see what the results might be. Elecraft can help with 
analysis of the damage for that part of your problem.


'Closing the barn door after the horse is gone' is not really helpful, 
but I would advocate the use of Anderson Power Pole connectors with 
fuses right at the power supply end of the power cord as prevention for 
the future.  Properly constructed APP connectors are 'genderless' and 
can help prevent such incidents.  I just returned from Field Day 
operation with 2 of my Elecraft rigs with no problems, but I use APP 
connectors on each piece of the 12 volt supply for all my gear.


One gentleman at the Field Day site used one of my power supplies to 
power his Omni, but he did not use APP connectors in his system.  I gave 
him the power supply (with APP connectors) and allowed him to change the 
connections to the power supply output at his own peril - fortuntely, 
there were no problems.
In my system, the power supply is fused within inches of the power 
supply end (both the positive and negative leads with fuses rated for 
the wire size used in the cable - see AWG tables) and all the rest plug 
into a Rigrunner or other distribution box with fuses rated for each 
branch.  The fuses should be sized for the smaller of the wire size in 
the power cable or for protection for the gear on the 'business end' of 
the power cable.  I fuse #12 power cable to a 100 watt class transceiver 
at 25 amps.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/29/2014 11:23 PM, Mike Lewis wrote:

So about 20 minutes prior to starting another successful Field Day with my
trusty K3 I powered it up for the first time after connecting everything had
just started some tests when my buddy starting yelling that I was letting
some of the magic smoke out of the radio. Sure enough, there was smoke
coming out of the back of the radio. I dived over and pulled the power. To
make a long story short, I was running an S9 31' vertical antenna base tuned
with an SG-231 autotuner, with the auto tuner powered over the coax using DC
blocks. The exact same config as I ran with last year with wonderful
results. Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 switched
supply right into the antenna jack. After the incident I powered back up
with my finger on the off switch to try to assess the level of damage. The
radio puts out some power, but the SWR is infinite even into a dummy load. I
am not sure of the status of the receiver input chain as I didn't want to
put it back onto a real antenna.




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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-29 Thread Michael Eberle


Anderson Power Poles on the antenna jack?

On 6/29/2014 11:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:



'Closing the barn door after the horse is gone' is not really helpful, 
but I would advocate the use of Anderson Power Pole connectors with 
fuses right at the power supply end of the power cord as prevention 
for the future.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/29/2014 11:23 PM, Mike Lewis wrote:

 Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 
switched

supply right into the antenna jack.


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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-29 Thread K8JHR
I am thinking Don did not catch the use of a bias Tee type DC injector 
in the story...


 JHR ===

On 6/30/2014 1:36 AM, Michael Eberle wrote:


Anderson Power Poles on the antenna jack?







-


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