Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Output power not matching power setting and very unstable between transmissions

2014-10-05 Thread Vic Rosenthal K2VCO
Did you check D9 and other components on the RF board that provide the 
VRFDET signal?


How did you check VRFDET, VALC, and VPWR on the control board if the
transmit power is unstable?

On 10/5/2014 08:28, KY7K wrote:

I recently purchased a used K2 (Rev A) from a club that was not
working because it had been “hooked up backward”. That is the best
anyone can remember as to what happened to the radio ~7 years ago…

Currently, the power output as displayed on the radio and on an
external power meter is very unstable and does not match the power
setting desired. This is not just a little off, I can select 1W on
the radio and then hit the tune button 5 times and might get .4W,
6.7W, HI-CUR, 9.0W, 1.2W. This is the QRP K2 with SSB, NB, KIO2 and
DSP options. The problem occurs with or without the option boards
installed.

Background: When I first tested it, it would power on but the only
function that was operational was the power control. Every other knob
and button was non-functioning as if the cpu was hung up. The radio
was not transmitting in this state. I had a old CPU (U6) from my
other K2 that I installed as a test and that seemed to fix the
problem, at least in receive. I, unfortunately, did not test it in
transmit. I ordered a FWK2MCIO kit to get a new cpu and also ordered
all the mod kits for the Rev A to Rev B upgrade, once they came in I
installed everything and while performing the the calibrations after
the upgrade discovered that the transmit power was very unstable
between transmissions. Other than the bad U6, the only other issue I
found was that the PCB trace from pin 5 of the Mic connector on the
front panel board was basically missing, from getting shorted to +12V
I assume, it disintegrated when touched...

I’ve narrowed the issue down to the control board, since if I swap
the control board from my working K2 into the bad radio the power
issue disappears. I’ve checked VRFDET, VALC, and VPWR on the control
board and they are all OK best I can tell, and I’m now at a loss
where to look next. Note: the power level is stable once it settles
on some random output power. The power level is random from one
transmission to the next.

The following links are images showing a tune cycle. The first image
shows the full scan with the radio set to ~1W and actually putting
out ~.4W. The second image is zoomed in on the start of the cycle.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i64sw2ue2405roe/k2_0_5w_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qe297am756igbd4/k2_0_5w_zoom.png?dl=0

This is with the power set to ~7W and the radio indicating hi-cur,
before settling down to ~6.4W
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tqxzi3yk13gye4g/k2_hicur_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qz10478zt66tjd/k2_hicur_zoom.png?dl=0



Steve - KY7K k...@arrl.net Get OUT and play radio!


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Output power not matching power setting and very unstable between transmissions

2014-10-05 Thread Vic Rosenthal K2VCO

Also, what about the power control pot itself?

On 10/5/2014 08:36, KY7K wrote:

I forgot to mention that all testing is into a known good DL1 dummy
load that I’m also using for my external power readings.

Any wise insights are most welcome!

Steve - KY7K k...@arrl.net Get OUT and play radio!

On Oct 4, 2014, at 10:28 PM, KY7K k...@cox.net wrote:


I recently purchased a used K2 (Rev A) from a club that was not
working because it had been “hooked up backward”. That is the best
anyone can remember as to what happened to the radio ~7 years ago…

Currently, the power output as displayed on the radio and on an
external power meter is very unstable and does not match the power
setting desired. This is not just a little off, I can select 1W on
the radio and then hit the tune button 5 times and might get .4W,
6.7W, HI-CUR, 9.0W, 1.2W. This is the QRP K2 with SSB, NB, KIO2 and
DSP options. The problem occurs with or without the option boards
installed.

Background: When I first tested it, it would power on but the only
function that was operational was the power control. Every other
knob and button was non-functioning as if the cpu was hung up. The
radio was not transmitting in this state. I had a old CPU (U6) from
my other K2 that I installed as a test and that seemed to fix the
problem, at least in receive. I, unfortunately, did not test it in
transmit. I ordered a FWK2MCIO kit to get a new cpu and also
ordered all the mod kits for the Rev A to Rev B upgrade, once they
came in I installed everything and while performing the the
calibrations after the upgrade discovered that the transmit power
was very unstable between transmissions. Other than the bad U6, the
only other issue I found was that the PCB trace from pin 5 of the
Mic connector on the front panel board was basically missing, from
getting shorted to +12V I assume, it disintegrated when touched...

I’ve narrowed the issue down to the control board, since if I swap
the control board from my working K2 into the bad radio the power
issue disappears. I’ve checked VRFDET, VALC, and VPWR on the
control board and they are all OK best I can tell, and I’m now at a
loss where to look next. Note: the power level is stable once it
settles on some random output power. The power level is random from
one transmission to the next.

The following links are images showing a tune cycle. The first
image shows the full scan with the radio set to ~1W and actually
putting out ~.4W. The second image is zoomed in on the start of the
cycle.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i64sw2ue2405roe/k2_0_5w_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qe297am756igbd4/k2_0_5w_zoom.png?dl=0

This is with the power set to ~7W and the radio indicating hi-cur,
before settling down to ~6.4W
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tqxzi3yk13gye4g/k2_hicur_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qz10478zt66tjd/k2_hicur_zoom.png?dl=0



Steve - KY7K k...@arrl.net Get OUT and play radio!


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the Time...

2014-10-05 Thread Doug Turnbull
Phil,
I have also experienced the KX3 going dead on fully charged batteries.
It seems that the only cure was to open up the KX3 remove and reinstall
batteries and also check cables to see that they are fully seated.Then
things work again.I have no idea why this should be and thankfully it
does not happen often.In my case removing and reinstalling the batteries
seems to be a necessity almost as if it was allowing a power off reset.
This problem seems to occur after a battery charge cycle.The problem is
thankfully rare but it puts a chill through my bones.

 73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Hystad
Sent: 04 October 2014 23:38
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the Time...

OK, Here's the thing...

My KX3 battery has operated flawlessly ever since I first built the KX3 and
put in the battery holder/charger feature.  One set of batteries being used
in portable QRP ops being discharged and recharged many times.  Then, I
decided to buy the 2-meter module option and install that.

I started the installation which included taking out all 8 batteries,
unplugging the battery connector that goes to the other half of the KX3 and
so on.  I get part way into the installation and discover that I cannot
finish the job because inductor L40 which has to move cannot physically move
at all.  So, I send it to Elecraft, they do the installation, they send the
unit back to me and everything is hunky-dory except for the battery
facility.

These are the symptoms.  Brand new batteries installed, and I operate the
KX3 with external power and make sure that the batteries are fully charged.
The VFO B Display shows BT voltage with a good charged level.  I turn the
KX3 off, disconnect external power, and go to turn on with battery power.
Nothing happens, just as if no batteries installed.

I replug external power, turn on KX3 using external power and check out the
various battery menu settings and so on.  This time, without unplugging
external power connector, I merely turn off the external power supply and
the KX3 continues operating nicely with battery power.  I do a number of
tests with CW key down into metered dummy load to check TX and a few other
things.  I think the problem solved.  I run on batteries all afternoon to
run them down.  Turning on external power I recharge the batteries back up
to an operating level.  I turn off KX3, disconnect external power, and turn
on KX3 and nothing happens just like before.  I fiddle with things a bit.  I
attempt to do what I did before that brought life back to the battery
feature but nothing happens.

I split open the KX3 and check the power plug.  I push in on it a little
bit.  I put the two halves loosely back together and then do a power on and
the KX3 comes alive on batteries.

I am thinking that I have a loose connection somewhere, maybe the battery
hookup plug that goes across to the other half.  

Anyone have problems with these connectors?  I am wondering if I just give
up on the battery thing and use my external Li -ion external batteries from
now on.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- turning it off

2014-10-05 Thread PKA
This would happen if pin-8 of the ACC connector is shorted when you hit the 
power button. The same thing happens when you send the PS0 command.
73/OZ4UN

 Den 05/10/2014 kl. 02.37 skrev Michael James Hauan a...@hauan.org:
 
 Anyone have any ideas why, when I hit the power button to turn off my K3, it 
 doesn’t turn off.  All markings disappear but the backlight stays on and 
 hitting the power button thereafter does nothing. 
 
 I have to resort to pulling the plug.  
 
 On plugging it back in, the power comes on without hitting the power button.  
 
 73!
 
 Michael James Hauan, ACØG
 -
 a...@hauan.org
 a...@winlink.org
 573-823-7114 (c)
 
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[Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Ted Edwards W3TB
I have never been convinced of being accurate on zero-beat on my K3.
With previous radio units, I would zero-beat by matching the tone of the
received station with my own keying side-tone.  But it does not seem
accurate on the K3.

So the question:  How would I determine that my offset and side tone would
match up so that I am really zero-beated when I think I am.

Thanks ahead of time.

-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't.
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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A

Hello Ted,

When I need to be on zero beat within one Hz,  I always switch on the 
spot on the K3 and set the received signal to the same volume.
Once I hear the combination of both increase and decrease slowly, I know 
that I am within a Hz. It's also the way I calibrate the K3 against a 
standard like WWV or the russian station on 9.996 / 14.996 (forgot the 
callsign).


73
Arie PA3A

Ted Edwards W3TB schreef op 5-10-2014 12:44:

I have never been convinced of being accurate on zero-beat on my K3.
With previous radio units, I would zero-beat by matching the tone of the
received station with my own keying side-tone.  But it does not seem
accurate on the K3.

So the question:  How would I determine that my offset and side tone would
match up so that I am really zero-beated when I think I am.

Thanks ahead of time.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the Time...

2014-10-05 Thread Stephen Prior
I've also had a situation where just one of the battery wires came adrift
from the plug that comes from the battery pack and goes into the other half
of the case.  The KX3 behaved very peculiarly for a while until I noticed
it and re-soldered (fiddly job).

Stephen G4SJP

On 5 October 2014 09:27, Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie wrote:

 Phil,
 I have also experienced the KX3 going dead on fully charged batteries.
 It seems that the only cure was to open up the KX3 remove and reinstall
 batteries and also check cables to see that they are fully seated.Then
 things work again.I have no idea why this should be and thankfully it
 does not happen often.In my case removing and reinstalling the
 batteries
 seems to be a necessity almost as if it was allowing a power off reset.
 This problem seems to occur after a battery charge cycle.The problem is
 thankfully rare but it puts a chill through my bones.

  73 Doug EI2CN

 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
 Hystad
 Sent: 04 October 2014 23:38
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the
 Time...

 OK, Here's the thing...

 My KX3 battery has operated flawlessly ever since I first built the KX3 and
 put in the battery holder/charger feature.  One set of batteries being used
 in portable QRP ops being discharged and recharged many times.  Then, I
 decided to buy the 2-meter module option and install that.

 I started the installation which included taking out all 8 batteries,
 unplugging the battery connector that goes to the other half of the KX3 and
 so on.  I get part way into the installation and discover that I cannot
 finish the job because inductor L40 which has to move cannot physically
 move
 at all.  So, I send it to Elecraft, they do the installation, they send the
 unit back to me and everything is hunky-dory except for the battery
 facility.

 These are the symptoms.  Brand new batteries installed, and I operate the
 KX3 with external power and make sure that the batteries are fully charged.
 The VFO B Display shows BT voltage with a good charged level.  I turn the
 KX3 off, disconnect external power, and go to turn on with battery power.
 Nothing happens, just as if no batteries installed.

 I replug external power, turn on KX3 using external power and check out the
 various battery menu settings and so on.  This time, without unplugging
 external power connector, I merely turn off the external power supply and
 the KX3 continues operating nicely with battery power.  I do a number of
 tests with CW key down into metered dummy load to check TX and a few other
 things.  I think the problem solved.  I run on batteries all afternoon to
 run them down.  Turning on external power I recharge the batteries back up
 to an operating level.  I turn off KX3, disconnect external power, and turn
 on KX3 and nothing happens just like before.  I fiddle with things a bit.
 I
 attempt to do what I did before that brought life back to the battery
 feature but nothing happens.

 I split open the KX3 and check the power plug.  I push in on it a little
 bit.  I put the two halves loosely back together and then do a power on and
 the KX3 comes alive on batteries.

 I am thinking that I have a loose connection somewhere, maybe the battery
 hookup plug that goes across to the other half.

 Anyone have problems with these connectors?  I am wondering if I just give
 up on the battery thing and use my external Li -ion external batteries from
 now on.

 73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Mike Harris
Any particular reason to need to zero beat to 1Hz?  I find the auto tune 
function works perfectly well.  In fact if I'm one of many stations 
calling I often offset 40-50Hz so as to be different from the all zero 
beat mush.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 05/10/2014 07:55, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

Hello Ted,

When I need to be on zero beat within one Hz,  I always switch on the
spot on the K3 and set the received signal to the same volume.
Once I hear the combination of both increase and decrease slowly, I know
that I am within a Hz. It's also the way I calibrate the K3 against a
standard like WWV or the russian station on 9.996 / 14.996 (forgot the
callsign).

73
Arie PA3A

Ted Edwards W3TB schreef op 5-10-2014 12:44:

I have never been convinced of being accurate on zero-beat on my K3.
With previous radio units, I would zero-beat by matching the tone of the
received station with my own keying side-tone.  But it does not seem
accurate on the K3.

So the question:  How would I determine that my offset and side tone
would
match up so that I am really zero-beated when I think I am.

Thanks ahead of time.

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread David Cole
HI,
In a pileup, I ALWAYS move off zero beat, so if I transmit, I don't
cover the DX station in the event I transmit on top of him/her.
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Sun, 2014-10-05 at 08:49 -0300, Mike Harris wrote:
 Any particular reason to need to zero beat to 1Hz?  I find the auto tune 
 function works perfectly well.  In fact if I'm one of many stations 
 calling I often offset 40-50Hz so as to be different from the all zero 
 beat mush.
 
 Regards,
 
 Mike VP8NO
 
 On 05/10/2014 07:55, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:
  Hello Ted,
 
  When I need to be on zero beat within one Hz,  I always switch on the
  spot on the K3 and set the received signal to the same volume.
  Once I hear the combination of both increase and decrease slowly, I know
  that I am within a Hz. It's also the way I calibrate the K3 against a
  standard like WWV or the russian station on 9.996 / 14.996 (forgot the
  callsign).
 
  73
  Arie PA3A
 
  Ted Edwards W3TB schreef op 5-10-2014 12:44:
  I have never been convinced of being accurate on zero-beat on my K3.
  With previous radio units, I would zero-beat by matching the tone of the
  received station with my own keying side-tone.  But it does not seem
  accurate on the K3.
 
  So the question:  How would I determine that my offset and side tone
  would
  match up so that I am really zero-beated when I think I am.
 
  Thanks ahead of time.
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Re: [Elecraft] Using a KX3 with WSJT-X DXLAB Commander

2014-10-05 Thread Neil Zampella

Joe,

You're probably right ... I'm going to do some rearrangement of the 
wiring, ensure proper ground, then see what happens.   I've also moved 
back to the release candidate v1.4.0-RC2, as I've been using a local 
build built from the sources.


73,

Neil
KB3TVU

On 10/05/14 08:15 am, Neil Zampella wrote:

Subject:
Re: [Elecraft] Using a KX3 with WSJT-X  DXLAB Commander
From:
Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Date:
10/04/14 07:54 pm

To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net



I've used WSJT-X with Commander and the K3 and *never* seen a hang in
transmit.  The K3 and KX3 use the same commands for T/R switching (*ALL*
rigs use the same T/R switching commands from WSJT-X when using DXLab
Suite Commander - with Commander doing the translation from WSJT-X
commands to the rig specific command).

I would look carefully for RF issues - when using software commands, it
is very easy for RF to scramble the TX OFF serial command.  That issue
is particularly likely with a continuous carrier mode like JT65/JT9.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-10-04 7:37 PM, Neil Zampella wrote:
Hi all,

Is anyone else using the same type of combination of software with the
KX3?  I'm using the KXUSB cable to control CAT, and an external USB
soundcard directly hooked to the KX3.

My issue is that I'm seeing some times when the KX3 does switch out of
transmit at the end of the JT9 period of 50 seconds.This doesn't
happen often, but it has happened the past two nights.  One night the
KX3 was being used for over an hour and a half, and tonight for less
than 10 minutes.

The developer and I have been exchanging logs, and have somewhat
eliminated WSJT-X as the cause, so we're starting to look at Commander,
to see if its the culprit.Having someone else seeing the same issue
would assist  in tracking down this bug, if indeed its a bug in the
software and not a problem with CAT control of the KX3.

  ... and if I'm the only one seeing this, I need to eliminate any short
between the headsets .. hi hi.

73,

Neil Z
KB3TVU
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[Elecraft] Inscribe

2014-10-05 Thread Brian North
Please remove me from this list, Thankyou.

'73
2E0BWQ.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the Time...

2014-10-05 Thread Phil Hystad
Stephen, and Doug:

Yes, I suspect the plug to be the culprit here since once I fixed the problem 
merely
by tightening and pushing in on the plug itself.  I will take a closer look 
this afternoon.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Oct 5, 2014, at 4:21 AM, Stephen Prior eastbrantw...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've also had a situation where just one of the battery wires came adrift
 from the plug that comes from the battery pack and goes into the other half
 of the case.  The KX3 behaved very peculiarly for a while until I noticed
 it and re-soldered (fiddly job).
 
 Stephen G4SJP
 
 On 5 October 2014 09:27, Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie wrote:
 
 Phil,
I have also experienced the KX3 going dead on fully charged batteries.
 It seems that the only cure was to open up the KX3 remove and reinstall
 batteries and also check cables to see that they are fully seated.Then
 things work again.I have no idea why this should be and thankfully it
 does not happen often.In my case removing and reinstalling the
 batteries
 seems to be a necessity almost as if it was allowing a power off reset.
 This problem seems to occur after a battery charge cycle.The problem is
 thankfully rare but it puts a chill through my bones.
 
 73 Doug EI2CN
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
 Hystad
 Sent: 04 October 2014 23:38
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery Supply Inoperative 42 Percent of the
 Time...
 
 OK, Here's the thing...
 
 My KX3 battery has operated flawlessly ever since I first built the KX3 and
 put in the battery holder/charger feature.  One set of batteries being used
 in portable QRP ops being discharged and recharged many times.  Then, I
 decided to buy the 2-meter module option and install that.
 
 I started the installation which included taking out all 8 batteries,
 unplugging the battery connector that goes to the other half of the KX3 and
 so on.  I get part way into the installation and discover that I cannot
 finish the job because inductor L40 which has to move cannot physically
 move
 at all.  So, I send it to Elecraft, they do the installation, they send the
 unit back to me and everything is hunky-dory except for the battery
 facility.
 
 These are the symptoms.  Brand new batteries installed, and I operate the
 KX3 with external power and make sure that the batteries are fully charged.
 The VFO B Display shows BT voltage with a good charged level.  I turn the
 KX3 off, disconnect external power, and go to turn on with battery power.
 Nothing happens, just as if no batteries installed.
 
 I replug external power, turn on KX3 using external power and check out the
 various battery menu settings and so on.  This time, without unplugging
 external power connector, I merely turn off the external power supply and
 the KX3 continues operating nicely with battery power.  I do a number of
 tests with CW key down into metered dummy load to check TX and a few other
 things.  I think the problem solved.  I run on batteries all afternoon to
 run them down.  Turning on external power I recharge the batteries back up
 to an operating level.  I turn off KX3, disconnect external power, and turn
 on KX3 and nothing happens just like before.  I fiddle with things a bit.
 I
 attempt to do what I did before that brought life back to the battery
 feature but nothing happens.
 
 I split open the KX3 and check the power plug.  I push in on it a little
 bit.  I put the two halves loosely back together and then do a power on and
 the KX3 comes alive on batteries.
 
 I am thinking that I have a loose connection somewhere, maybe the battery
 hookup plug that goes across to the other half.
 
 Anyone have problems with these connectors?  I am wondering if I just give
 up on the battery thing and use my external Li -ion external batteries from
 now on.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
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[Elecraft] FS K3/10

2014-10-05 Thread Frankie Hunt
 

 

For sale  K3/10 serial 16xx.   $1550 plus shipping.  Smoke free environment.
I purchased this rig new and it has seen minimal usage.  myc...@arrl.net

Frankie  K4TEN

 

Has the following options:


K3/10

K3 10W Xcvr. (Assembled)

$1799.95 


KBPF3

K3 Gen. Cov. RX Module

$169.95 


KFL3A-2.8_2.7sw

2.8 for 2.7 kHz swap

$129.95 


KFL3A-6K

K3 6 kHz, 8 pole filter

$139.95 


KXV3A

K3 RX Ant, IF Out  Xvrtr Intf.

$129.95 

$2369.75

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Output power not matching power setting and very unstable between transmissions

2014-10-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

If hooked up backwards means that the DC power was connected with 
reverse polarity, that will normally cause no harm to the K2 because 
there is a series reverse voltage protection diode in the input power 
line.  The burned trace on the mic jack pin 5 suggests that something 
different happened to it.


Try replacing D9 with a 1N5711 diode and see what happens.  The power 
output into a good dummy load will normally be within 0.2 watts of the 
set power if all is working right.  You older K2 has a 1N34 diode at D9 
and it is not as accurate over the full frequency range as the 1N5711.


If you have not done so already, record the menu settings, especially 
the filter settings and do a Master Reset (hold the 4, 5, and 6 buttons 
in while powering the K2 on).  Then run CAL PLL and restore the menu 
settings.  The fact that the problem goes away if you swap control 
boards suggests that there may be some problem with the EEPROM contents, 
and a Master Reset should 'clean it out'.


Set CAL CUR to 3.50 instead of 2.50 and see if the HiCur messages go 
away.  If they continue, you may have to replace the PA transistors.  
Another thing to check is the DC voltage at the base of Q7 and Q8 during 
a TUNE - it should be in the range of 0.60 to 0.64 volts.  If not, 
replace Q11 and Q13.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2014 1:36 AM, KY7K wrote:

I forgot to mention that all testing is into a known good DL1 dummy load that 
I’m also using for my external power readings.

Any wise insights are most welcome!

Steve - KY7K
k...@arrl.net
Get OUT and play radio!

On Oct 4, 2014, at 10:28 PM, KY7K k...@cox.net wrote:


I recently purchased a used K2 (Rev A) from a club that was not working because 
it had been “hooked up backward”. That is the best anyone can remember as to 
what happened to the radio ~7 years ago…

Currently, the power output as displayed on the radio and on an external power 
meter is very unstable and does not match the power setting desired. This is 
not just a little off, I can select 1W on the radio and then hit the tune 
button 5 times and might get .4W, 6.7W, HI-CUR, 9.0W, 1.2W.
This is the QRP K2 with SSB, NB, KIO2 and DSP options. The problem occurs with 
or without the option boards installed.

Background:
When I first tested it, it would power on but the only function that was 
operational was the power control. Every other knob and button was 
non-functioning as if the cpu was hung up. The radio was not transmitting in 
this state.
I had a old CPU (U6) from my other K2 that I installed as a test and that 
seemed to fix the problem, at least in receive. I, unfortunately, did not test 
it in transmit.
I ordered a FWK2MCIO kit to get a new cpu and also ordered all the mod kits for 
the Rev A to Rev B upgrade, once they came in I installed everything and while 
performing the the calibrations after the upgrade discovered that the transmit 
power was very unstable between transmissions.
Other than the bad U6, the only other issue I found was that the PCB trace from 
pin 5 of the Mic connector on the front panel board was basically missing, from 
getting shorted to +12V I assume, it disintegrated when touched...

I’ve narrowed the issue down to the control board, since if I swap the control 
board from my working K2 into the bad radio the power issue disappears.
I’ve checked VRFDET, VALC, and VPWR on the control board and they are all OK 
best I can tell, and I’m now at a loss where to look next.
Note: the power level is stable once it settles on some random output power. 
The power level is random from one transmission to the next.

The following links are images showing a tune cycle.
The first image shows the full scan with the radio set to ~1W and actually 
putting out ~.4W. The second image is zoomed in on the start of the cycle.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i64sw2ue2405roe/k2_0_5w_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qe297am756igbd4/k2_0_5w_zoom.png?dl=0

This is with the power set to ~7W and the radio indicating hi-cur, before 
settling down to ~6.4W
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tqxzi3yk13gye4g/k2_hicur_full.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qz10478zt66tjd/k2_hicur_zoom.png?dl=0



Steve - KY7K
k...@arrl.net
Get OUT and play radio!

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ted,

Is the value you have set in PITCH the same as the audio frequency you 
are listening at?  If so, the SPOT feature should be quite accurate.
Actually, between the CWT indicator and the Auto-Spot feature of the K3, 
it is easy to get within a Hz or two.  Auto-Spot may not work well in 
very crowded band conditions unless you narrow the filter width.  Also, 
you should be tuned within 20 Hz or less for Auto-Spot to work effectively.


If you are matching the tones with your ears, unless you have perfect 
pitch, adjust the amplitude of the sidetone and the signal to be near 
equal and listen for the WOW, WOW, WOW tone to slow to zero.  That will 
assure you of zero beat.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2014 6:44 AM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

I have never been convinced of being accurate on zero-beat on my K3.
With previous radio units, I would zero-beat by matching the tone of the
received station with my own keying side-tone.  But it does not seem
accurate on the K3.

So the question:  How would I determine that my offset and side tone would
match up so that I am really zero-beated when I think I am.

Thanks ahead of time.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- turning it off

2014-10-05 Thread Matt Zilmer
Oops - I meant MONDAY morning.  I'm on vacation, and it's easy to lose
track of what day of the week it is.

73,
matt W6NIA


On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 19:05:23 -0600, you wrote:

Sounds like the big FET that switches power might have failed closed.

Best thing - call Support in the morning and report the symptoms.  If
this is repeatable, they'll issue an RSA (RMA?) and the factory will
fix it for you (free, if under warranty).

73,
matt
W6NIA

On Sat, 4 Oct 2014 19:36:48 -0500, you wrote:

Anyone have any ideas why, when I hit the power button to turn off my K3, it 
doesn’t turn off.  All markings disappear but the backlight stays on and 
hitting the power button thereafter does nothing. 

I have to resort to pulling the plug.  

On plugging it back in, the power comes on without hitting the power button.  

73!

Michael James Hauan, ACØG
-
a...@hauan.org
a...@winlink.org
573-823-7114 (c)

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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will
spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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Re: [Elecraft] Pig Knob

2014-10-05 Thread Nick Garner
Hi Ted,
On the back of the P3 are two 9-pin serial ports, labeled PC and XCVR.  You
would connected the Knob to the PC port of the P3 and then the XCVR port of
the P3 to the K3.  The P3 will proxy the serial data between the Knob and
the K3.

73,
Nick
N3WG

On Sat, Oct 4, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:

 I know the Pig Knob has been discussed on this reflector before, but I
 wanted to post a note about it and he who produces it - Nick, N3WG.  I
 hooked the knob up right out of the box and --- it did nothing, with
 either my K3 or  KX3.  Many efforts at redoing (and following Nick¹s
 excellent You Tube videos) resulted in more nothing.  So I sent Nick an
 e-mail.  It turns out that the problem was, to use the euphemism, operator
 error.  I will spare everyone my recounting the embarrassing details.  But
 it is now working exactly as advertised.  Most important, Nick responded
 within twenty minutes to my e-mail, helpfully and with assurances that
 we¹d get it right.  Great service - suitable for those of us accustomed to
 the same from Elecraft.

 A question for those who have used the Pig Knob with the K3:  can it be
 connected simultaneously with the P3 using a serial-Y connector from the
 K3¹s RS-232 port?  Anyone experience any problems doing that?

 I have yet to try to set my own configurations for the device.  When I do
 I will surely have more questions . . .

 Cheers,

 Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A

Mike,

Only when calibrating the K3 freq I tune within one Hz. Performing the 
Ref-Cal.

That's all.

73
Arie PA3A



Mike Harris schreef op 5-10-2014 13:49:
Any particular reason to need to zero beat to 1Hz?  I find the auto 
tune function works perfectly well.  In fact if I'm one of many 
stations calling I often offset 40-50Hz so as to be different from the 
all zero beat mush.


Regards,



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[Elecraft] SSB net announcement

2014-10-05 Thread Phil Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net meets today at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz.  Hope to see 
you there.

73,
Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero-beating on CW

2014-10-05 Thread Mike Harris
OK that is a different issue to that which I think many folks understood 
from your original comment.  I don't find zero beating WWV to be a 
problem when trimming up the TCXO calibration, the wow, wow wow is easy 
to detect and fine tune.  Indeed, it is a regular requirement, not a do 
once and forget issue, assuming it is ever done in the first instance 
after a kit build.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 05/10/2014 12:54, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

Mike,

Only when calibrating the K3 freq I tune within one Hz. Performing the
Ref-Cal.
That's all.

73
Arie PA3A



Mike Harris schreef op 5-10-2014 13:49:

Any particular reason to need to zero beat to 1Hz?  I find the auto
tune function works perfectly well.  In fact if I'm one of many
stations calling I often offset 40-50Hz so as to be different from the
all zero beat mush.

Regards,

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HI RFI NO Power output. ATU.

2014-10-05 Thread Chester Alderman
One should NEVER try to get a tuner to get a match with a load when you are
running high power, i.e., your 100 watts. The quickest way to blow out your
PIN diodes (or any T/R switching diode) is to subject them to the very high
reverse voltage when you have a bad match. In all likelihood, your antenna
switching diodes are blown. 
Good luck and 73,
Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hugh
Valentine
Sent: Sunday, October 5, 2014 9:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 HI RFI NO Power output. ATU.

Anybody Help??? Problem originated on 6M(affects all bands) when ATU was
being used to Tweak SWR from 2.4 to 1.0:1. ATU constantly moved up and down
tuning, never resting on 1.0:1Power output was intermittent(100W) would go
to zero then back to 100 as ATU was looking for match.  Then, HI SWR,  RFI
scrolls across screen as no power is coming out of K3.  Affects Ant 1 and
Ant 2 SO239s on back of chassis.  Affects with RX antenna unplugged.  Any
Band, any Mode.  Either VFO A or B.  Run both w/Antennas or Dummy Load.
Same result. Finally,  HI SWR, HI Cur, RFI scrolls across screen after power
goes above 12W.(Never shows ANY power on the LED screen, only one Bar each
time I transmit. Uploaded new Firmware and reset K3. On all bands...with or
without ATU(eventually uninstalled it) on any antenna or on Dummy Load,  Rig
shows Zero Power output as I go from 0-12.5 W then at any power over 12
Watts, the RX makes a variable warbling noise and normal receive is
bypassed.  After a few se  conds, the RX may come back on. I just installed
a K9AY RX system not too far from XMIT ant.  But have been using it all
bands no problem for 2 months. ATU always has difficulties matching low SWR
on 160 and 6M. Any suggestions as to what is gong on?Anyone experience this
before?  73ValN4RJ

The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar #40;Don#39;t Eat
This!#41;
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54314ce51d0674ce51596st01vuc
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2014-10-05 Thread Kevin

Good Morning,
   After a pleasant week of wood processing my hands are tired. 
Hopefully a few aspirin an hour before each net will help alleviate the 
pain. Please forgive any sending errors I may have.


Please join us this afternoon and evening.

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0100z Monday (6 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS

-
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[Elecraft] Kat100

2014-10-05 Thread Dave
Static got the diodes in the k2 100watt amp. Could they also get the diodes in
the kat100. If the kat100 d1 I  d2 blow will the tuner still try to tune only
not arrive at a low swr?
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[Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread Brian F. Wruble
Hi All:

The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.

I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
about 2 per second.

In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.

If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
line from the RemoteRig to my PC.

This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
--- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.

All ideas gratefully accepted.

73 de Brian W3BW

*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Kat100

2014-10-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
Yes, the KAt100will still try to tune.  The SWR it reports will be 
woefully inaccurate, and is likely a 'crazy' reading.  Check the diodes 
with an ohmmeter, or alternately measure the resistance between U5 pin 3 
and ground, and also U5 pin 5 and ground.  Both should measure between 
40k and 50k if the diodes are good and the forward and reverse pots are 
adjusted anywhere near correct.
Don't forget to check the nulling (or balance) of the capacitor and the 
calibration of the wattmeter for forward power and reverse power as 
instructed in the manual after replacing the diodes.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2014 3:48 PM, d...@dpomeroy.com wrote:

Static got the diodes in the k2 100watt amp. Could they also get the diodes in
the kat100. If the kat100 d1 I  d2 blow will the tuner still try to tune only
not arrive at a low swr?
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

If it goes away when you unplug the line from the RR box to the K3/0, 
then --
That sounds suspiciously like a Remote Rig problem.  I would recommend 
contacting the support folks at Remote Rig for ideas on the cause and 
solution.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2014 5:36 PM, Brian F. Wruble wrote:

If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
line from the RemoteRig to my PC.




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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread Oliver Dröse


Hi Brian,

I have never heard anybody complaining about my signal having a ticking 
noise. But, when I power down the K3/0 mini I hear it, too, and quite 
loud. It goes away as soon as I disconnect my mic from the mini! No 
matter if using the front socket or the 3,5 mm socket. As soon as a mic 
is plugged in and the mini is turned off there's ticking. Must be 
something in the mini itself (or the mini in conjunction the the RR 
controller) as I did not have it when I still had the old PCBs inside 
(before the swap against the new ones with a display readable when tilted).


Can you confirm the ticking goes away in your setup when you un-plug the 
mic? That might give Elecraft a hint for trouble shooting.


Tnx  73, Olli - DH8BQA

Contest, DX  radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de


Am 05.10.2014 23:36, schrieb Brian F. Wruble:

Hi All:

The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.

I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
about 2 per second.

In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.

If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
line from the RemoteRig to my PC.

This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
--- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.

All ideas gratefully accepted.

73 de Brian W3BW

*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
USB or serial port polling?  Try a different adapter or one that uses an 
optoisolater   

Craig Buck

 On Oct 5, 2014, at 5:36 PM, Brian F. Wruble bwru...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hi All:
 
 The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
 systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
 ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
 could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
 test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.
 
 I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
 to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
 about 2 per second.
 
 In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
 radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
 mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.
 
 If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
 the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
 Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
 if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
 connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
 line from the RemoteRig to my PC.
 
 This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
 And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
 --- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.
 
 All ideas gratefully accepted.
 
 73 de Brian W3BW
 
 *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread Ken Roberson via Elecraft
It's the K3 Clock - 73 Ken K5DNL
 

 On Sunday, October 5, 2014 5:19 PM, K4ia via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
   

 USB or serial port polling?  Try a different adapter or one that uses an 
optoisolater  

Craig Buck

 On Oct 5, 2014, at 5:36 PM, Brian F. Wruble bwru...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hi All:
 
 The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
 systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
 ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
 could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
 test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.
 
 I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
 to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
 about 2 per second.
 
 In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
 radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
 mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.
 
 If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
 the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
 Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
 if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
 connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
 line from the RemoteRig to my PC.
 
 This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
 And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
 --- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.
 
 All ideas gratefully accepted.
 
 73 de Brian W3BW
 
 *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread Oliver Dröse


I doubt there's a clock in the K3/0 mini ...

73, Olli

Contest, DX  radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de


Am 06.10.2014 00:26, schrieb Ken Roberson via Elecraft:

It's the K3 Clock - 73 Ken K5DNL
  


  On Sunday, October 5, 2014 5:19 PM, K4ia via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:



  USB or serial port polling?  Try a different adapter or one that uses an 
optoisolater

Craig Buck


On Oct 5, 2014, at 5:36 PM, Brian F. Wruble bwru...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All:

The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.

I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
about 2 per second.

In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.

If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
line from the RemoteRig to my PC.

This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
--- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.

All ideas gratefully accepted.

73 de Brian W3BW

*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Ticking sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread bwru...@gmail.com
No, mine persists with mike unplugged. The only thing that kills it is 
unplugging the TTL plug on the front of the Remote Rig. 



Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
From my iPad


 On Oct 5, 2014, at 6:15 PM, Oliver Dröse dro...@necg.de wrote:
 
 
 Hi Brian,
 
 I have never heard anybody complaining about my signal having a ticking 
 noise. But, when I power down the K3/0 mini I hear it, too, and quite loud. 
 It goes away as soon as I disconnect my mic from the mini! No matter if using 
 the front socket or the 3,5 mm socket. As soon as a mic is plugged in and the 
 mini is turned off there's ticking. Must be something in the mini itself (or 
 the mini in conjunction the the RR controller) as I did not have it when I 
 still had the old PCBs inside (before the swap against the new ones with a 
 display readable when tilted).
 
 Can you confirm the ticking goes away in your setup when you un-plug the mic? 
 That might give Elecraft a hint for trouble shooting.
 
 Tnx  73, Olli - DH8BQA
 
 Contest, DX  radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de
 
 
 Am 05.10.2014 23:36, schrieb Brian F. Wruble:
 Hi All:
 
 The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
 systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
 ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
 could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
 test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.
 
 I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
 to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
 about 2 per second.
 
 In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
 radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
 mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.
 
 If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
 the ticking goes away if I unplug the TTL line from the K3/0 mini.
 Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
 if I unplug Aux/Mic. It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
 connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
 line from the RemoteRig to my PC.
 
 This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
 And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
 --- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.
 
 All ideas gratefully accepted.
 
 73 de Brian W3BW
 
 *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Output power not matching power setting and very unstable between transmissions

2014-10-05 Thread KY7K
Don, 
Thank you for your recommendations.

D9 is a 1N5711 and checks OK.

A full reset made no difference.

Setting CAL CUR to 3.5 reduces the frequency of the HI-CUR messages, however 
with the power control maxed it will still show up sometimes. Note that when 
the HI-CUR occurs it is only for a second, after which the power drops down to 
some random stable level.

Base of Q7 and Q8 are between .60 and .64 volts


While adjusting the power control with the radio in receive the power shown on 
the display changes very smoothly as it should. However, if the power control 
is adjusted while transmitting the power shown on the LCD display and the LED 
bar graph jumps all over the place. The bar graph does show that the power is 
increasing and decreasing overall as it should, what I mean by that is the bar 
graph shows 4-5 bars of “noise” while adjusting the power in transmit, but the 
overall direction of the “noise” goes up or down in the correct direction if 
you were to average the “noise”.

Another test I made, however I’m not sure it is valid, was to control VPWR 
manually by lifting R22 where is meets C45 and inserting a control voltage on 
the lifted end of R22. In this mode the power is stable and varies smoothly as 
the external control voltage is varied. 
The power output is also stable from tune cycle to tune cycle in this test.
I question the validity of this test because VPWR and VALC are already setup 
and stable prior to transmitting, unlike they normally would.


Steve - KY7K
k...@arrl.net
Get OUT and play radio!

On Oct 5, 2014, at 6:35 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Steve,
 
 If hooked up backwards means that the DC power was connected with
 reverse polarity, that will normally cause no harm to the K2 because
 there is a series reverse voltage protection diode in the input power
 line.  The burned trace on the mic jack pin 5 suggests that something
 different happened to it.
 
 Try replacing D9 with a 1N5711 diode and see what happens.  The power
 output into a good dummy load will normally be within 0.2 watts of the
 set power if all is working right.  You older K2 has a 1N34 diode at D9
 and it is not as accurate over the full frequency range as the 1N5711.
 
 If you have not done so already, record the menu settings, especially
 the filter settings and do a Master Reset (hold the 4, 5, and 6 buttons
 in while powering the K2 on).  Then run CAL PLL and restore the menu
 settings.  The fact that the problem goes away if you swap control
 boards suggests that there may be some problem with the EEPROM contents,
 and a Master Reset should 'clean it out'.
 
 Set CAL CUR to 3.50 instead of 2.50 and see if the HiCur messages go
 away.  If they continue, you may have to replace the PA transistors.
 Another thing to check is the DC voltage at the base of Q7 and Q8 during
 a TUNE - it should be in the range of 0.60 to 0.64 volts.  If not,
 replace Q11 and Q13.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 10/5/2014 1:36 AM, KY7K wrote:
 I forgot to mention that all testing is into a known good DL1 dummy load 
 that I’m also using for my external power readings.
 
 Any wise insights are most welcome!
 
 Steve - KY7K
 k...@arrl.net
 Get OUT and play radio!
 
 On Oct 4, 2014, at 10:28 PM, KY7K k...@cox.net wrote:
 
 I recently purchased a used K2 (Rev A) from a club that was not working 
 because it had been “hooked up backward”. That is the best anyone can 
 remember as to what happened to the radio ~7 years ago…
 
 Currently, the power output as displayed on the radio and on an external 
 power meter is very unstable and does not match the power setting desired. 
 This is not just a little off, I can select 1W on the radio and then hit 
 the tune button 5 times and might get .4W, 6.7W, HI-CUR, 9.0W, 1.2W.
 This is the QRP K2 with SSB, NB, KIO2 and DSP options. The problem occurs 
 with or without the option boards installed.
 
 Background:
 When I first tested it, it would power on but the only function that was 
 operational was the power control. Every other knob and button was 
 non-functioning as if the cpu was hung up. The radio was not transmitting 
 in this state.
 I had a old CPU (U6) from my other K2 that I installed as a test and that 
 seemed to fix the problem, at least in receive. I, unfortunately, did not 
 test it in transmit.
 I ordered a FWK2MCIO kit to get a new cpu and also ordered all the mod kits 
 for the Rev A to Rev B upgrade, once they came in I installed everything 
 and while performing the the calibrations after the upgrade discovered that 
 the transmit power was very unstable between transmissions.
 Other than the bad U6, the only other issue I found was that the PCB trace 
 from pin 5 of the Mic connector on the front panel board was basically 
 missing, from getting shorted to +12V I assume, it disintegrated when 
 touched...
 
 I’ve narrowed the issue down to the control board, since if I swap the 
 control board from my working K2 into the bad radio the power issue