Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread Fred Jensen
KX1 #697 and K2 #4398 have seen a bit over a decade in my backpack, 
suitcase, in the car, on airplanes, two trains, and the KX1 has made a 
Panama Canal passage.  Nothing has fallen off.  I currently have a 
plastic back cover for the KX1 by W8FGU to lighten it a little when I 
get back into the Spartan sprints after it warms up.  If anything fell 
off, I would see it. :-)  I recommend following the Elecraft instructions.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 3/26/2016 12:02 PM, Gary wrote:

Since 2008 k3 #679 has enjoyed life "on the road", constantly moving from one 
scenic location to the next.
Nothing seems to have been shaken loose over this time.
I would think by now that if anything was susceptible to working loose it 
should have had a Murphy incident by now?

Elecraft it appears knew about my requirement and developed the k3 just for 
this style of operatinggrin

73
Gary


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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Antenna Switches and K2 Questions

2016-03-26 Thread Brian Hunt
Looking a the schematic it appears they use 0V, +V, -V and ACV for the 4 
switching states but only + or - voltage is applied to the relays. The big cap 
is used to smooth out the AC ripple.  I would put a back diode across each 
relay coil and add a MOV of appropriate voltage across C203 (V to ground).  
Reference the QST article in January 2013 issue. I built one with those 
guidelines and it's been fine for a couple of years. 

73,
Brian, K0DTJ



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[Elecraft] For Sale: Elecraft W2 Wattmeter

2016-03-26 Thread David Inger
I have for sale a W2 SWR/Wattmeter in as-new condition.  The package
includes the W2, the 2 kw directional coupler (remote sensor),
interconnecting cable, power cable, programming cable and owners manual.
These are fantastic, compact and highly accurate units.  $210 FIRM including
shipping to any US ZIP code. PayPal or USPS money order.
 
Tnx es 73 de K6SBA
David in Santa Barbara, CA
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[Elecraft] New Macro in Macro Spreadsheet...

2016-03-26 Thread Dave Cole
Hello,

I have removed the "Split +1" macro, and replaced it with a Split-5
macro.  This now gives both Split +, and Split - macros...

the new Macro is as follows:

BW0001;SWT13;SWT13;FT1;DNB7;RT0;XT0;#SPN60;#RCF-002500;BW0280;

BW sets bandwidth to as narrow as possible...
SWT is the same a pressing A->B twice
FT1 puts things in split mode
DNB7 is down 5, (really it is)
RT/XT clear XIT, and RIT
SPN sets span to 6 KHz.
RCF- moves the DX frequency to the right side of the P3 display
BW sets the RX bandwidth back to 2.8 KHz.

This is also a slight change from the original macro...  This version
gives a narrow transmit marker, as opposed to the wide one of the early
days...  Adding the BW commands at the start and finish perform this
function.

The change occurred to macro 38 in the spread sheet...

The spread sheet can be downloaded at:
http://nk7z.net/adding-an-external-keypad-to-the-k3/

3/4 of the way down, under the heading "A few hints", is a link to the
spreadsheet.

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Antenna Switches and K2 Questions

2016-03-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ted,

Yes, you have that right.
Capacitors or diodes across the relays would be a good thing to swallow 
the voltage kick when the relay is de-energized.


If your DMM is showing voltages in excess of 13 volts, then the peak 
voltages will be much higher.
The diodes or capacitors would have to go into the remote box across the 
relay coils.  If diodes are used, observe the polarity carefully - the 
cathode must go the the side of the relay with the more positive voltage 
- in other words for those relays driven by negative voltages, the 
cathode goes to the side with the negative voltage closer to zero volts.
Diodes will do a better job than capacitors.  If you use capacitors, I 
would suggest 0.1uF although 0.01uF may be sufficient - it all depends 
on the inductance and resistance of the relay coil.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2016 7:48 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Don Wilhelm pointed out
that because the LPF in the K2 is grounded on one side the presence of DC
itself wouldn’t be a problem, but that rapid changes in any voltage
getting into the RF input side could be. (Do I have that right, Don?)


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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Antenna Switches and K2 Questions

2016-03-26 Thread Dauer, Edward
Thanks for the note, Peter.  I haven’t opened the relay box, not wanting 
to break whatever weather seal it still has (besides,  it’s snowing and 
blowing out there); but I don’t know why a schematic would leave out 
anything that’s actually in the equipment.

I’ve had a half-dozen off-list replies to my original post, almost all of 
them noting the three parallel caps that pass the RF input and 
theoretically isolate it from the relay voltages.  If any of them failed, 
there could be DC showing up at the RF input.  Don Wilhelm pointed out 
that because the LPF in the K2 is grounded on one side the presence of DC 
itself wouldn’t be a problem, but that rapid changes in any voltage 
getting into the RF input side could be. (Do I have that right, Don?)  The 
curious thing, though, is that I have two Ameritron RCS-4s, and these 
voltage anomalies appear in both of them in almost identical ways.  Maybe 
a design flaw rather than a component failure?  In any case, something 
caused multiple failures when the K2 was here, but not when the K2 was 
anywhere else; and having the RCS-4 in the line here is the last such 
difference I could think of that hasn’t already been ruled out.  So maybe 
it has been a K2 component problem, but maybe not - three nearly identical 
failures make that seem less probable than only one would, but snot 
unlikely.

What I’ve measured with the DMM are short bursts - and, in fact, at one 
point I saw a reading of over 18 volts as your note suggests might be 
possible.  I am bringing one of the units back to the city with me Monday, 
where my oscilloscope is, so that I can get a better picture of what these 
transients look like.

For now I am just being wary of a system that inserts the relay energizing 
voltages into the coax.  The disadvantage of the alternative, meaning a 
separate low-voltage cable from the control box to the relays, is that 
it’s another cable.  For reasons of good domestic relations the coax from 
the house to the common antenna feed line site is buried.  Any other 
cables running that way would have to be as well.  From the looks of 
things today it may be June before the ground at this altitude (8,600 
feet) thaws enough to allow for even shallow trenching.

My thanks to everyone who replied with observations and suggestions.  This 
list is a never-fails resource . . . 

Ted, KN1CBR








On 3/26/16, 4:42 PM, "Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)"  wrote:

>Hi Ted,
>
>I just looked at the schematic, downloaded from the Ameritron site, and 
>wondered whether or not there are any protection diodes across the 3 
>relay coils in the remote box. They do not show on the drawing.
>
>I can imagine these spikes could be much bigger than the +5 and -5 volts 
>you quote.
>
>73,
>Peter - PA0PJE
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Re: [Elecraft] K-3 Transmit Problem: no RF Output

2016-03-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

K3support can give you a couple places to make measurements to determine 
whether the LPA transistors are good or bad.

I forget what those measurements are, but I suggest you contact them.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2016 7:30 PM, Mike Cizek W0VTT wrote:

Greetings -

My K3 has had low output for quite some time, maybe 60-90w depending on the
band.  I always meant to look into it and fix it someday.  Now it has no RF
output at all. (Just in time for VK0 and FT/J!)  I believe I have traced the
problem to two transistors on the LPA board (driver stages), Q4 and Q5, but
am not confident they are the only parts at fault.  I'm hoping someone else
has had the same problem and found the solution.

I tried re-seating all the connectors, with a drop of DeoxIt on the pins,
and running TX gain cal.  5w and 50w failed immediately, but 100 mW is OK on
all bands.

KPA-100 was removed, the PA jumper installed between P67A & P67B, and the
config menu was set to KPA not installed.  Measurements were taken with an
old Tek 2465.  DC voltages are all correct.

Measuring with a scope - I get a nice clean sine wave going in to the LPA
board at P71A pin 3.  Most bands are 1.2 to 2.2v P-P, but 6m is only 0.6v.
The output of Q1 is a little distorted.  The output of Q2 varies from
10-25v, depending on the band, and is also a little distorted.  Signals at
the base of Q4 and Q5 are back down to 3v.  Output of Q4 and Q5 is a few mV.
Changing the drive control has no affect on signal levels.

Is 1 to 2 v P-P the correct drive level at P71A?  What is an acceptable
variation in power level between different bands?  Should the drive control
change signal levels here, or does that happen later in the circuit?  I am
also concerned about the distortion on the wave forms.  Q4 and Q5 are
available from RF Parts for $5 apiece, so replacing them will likely be my
next stap.

Thank you.



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[Elecraft] K-3 Transmit Problem: no RF Output

2016-03-26 Thread Mike Cizek W0VTT
Greetings -

My K3 has had low output for quite some time, maybe 60-90w depending on the
band.  I always meant to look into it and fix it someday.  Now it has no RF
output at all. (Just in time for VK0 and FT/J!)  I believe I have traced the
problem to two transistors on the LPA board (driver stages), Q4 and Q5, but
am not confident they are the only parts at fault.  I'm hoping someone else
has had the same problem and found the solution.

I tried re-seating all the connectors, with a drop of DeoxIt on the pins,
and running TX gain cal.  5w and 50w failed immediately, but 100 mW is OK on
all bands.

KPA-100 was removed, the PA jumper installed between P67A & P67B, and the
config menu was set to KPA not installed.  Measurements were taken with an
old Tek 2465.  DC voltages are all correct.

Measuring with a scope - I get a nice clean sine wave going in to the LPA
board at P71A pin 3.  Most bands are 1.2 to 2.2v P-P, but 6m is only 0.6v.
The output of Q1 is a little distorted.  The output of Q2 varies from
10-25v, depending on the band, and is also a little distorted.  Signals at
the base of Q4 and Q5 are back down to 3v.  Output of Q4 and Q5 is a few mV.
Changing the drive control has no affect on signal levels.

Is 1 to 2 v P-P the correct drive level at P71A?  What is an acceptable
variation in power level between different bands?  Should the drive control
change signal levels here, or does that happen later in the circuit?  I am
also concerned about the distortion on the wave forms.  Q4 and Q5 are
available from RF Parts for $5 apiece, so replacing them will likely be my
next stap.

Thank you.

-- 
73,
Mike Cizek WØVTT


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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Antenna Switches and K2 Questions

2016-03-26 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Hi Ted,

I just looked at the schematic, downloaded from the Ameritron site, and 
wondered whether or not there are any protection diodes across the 3 
relay coils in the remote box. They do not show on the drawing.


I can imagine these spikes could be much bigger than the +5 and -5 volts 
you quote.


73,
Peter - PA0PJE

Op 2016-03-26 16:28 schreef Dauer, Edward:

Ameritron RCS-4 remote antenna switch

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Re: [Elecraft] Strong recommendation: MFJ 18xx-series single-band whips for KX3, etc

2016-03-26 Thread Edward R Cole
I might argue semantics with you, Charlie but get that most folks 
think a "base loading coil" is for use with shortened antennas 
(showing capacitive reactance).


The 5/8 WL Larson VHF whip (cut for 2m) does load nice on low end of 
6m.  In fact my antenna is a Larson  with NMO base mounting coil to 
NMO magnet.  Its on my truck so not accessible to check actual model 
but LM sound's correct.  I bought several at work for high-band VHF 
mobiles and recall some had HW or HD marking.


I can't recall if I every tried 6m using the Maxrad version which we 
bought later in the 15 years on my last job.  So maybe only the 
Larson brand will work this way.  We only had a few MOT antennas as 
they were cheaper without MOT brand on them.  We also installed DB 
Products antennas (not NMO base).


You can also buy the Larson NMOQ which is a 1/4 WL whip with NMO base 
but no coil.  I don't recall what whip length is supplied but I 
recall buying some mobile whips that had 96 inch whips which you 
trimmed with bolt cutters to resonant length (cutting charts were 
pretty good for obtaining good SWR on a mobile).


73, Ed

-
This only works for a 5/8  wave 2 M antenna where
the base inductor (It's NOT a * loading coil)
isn't tapped and grounded at one end.
In other words, if there is a single connection to
the antenna, this will work.
If there's a ground connection such that the
inductor is tapped up the coil it will not
function on 50 MHz.
The Larson LM series will work, but ones designed
for the Motorola (NMO) base will not.

73, Charlie k3ICH

* A 5/8 wave antenna presents roughly 50 Ohms
resistive and some level of capacitive (-J)
reactance.
In order to match this impedance, a series
inductor is required to cancel the capacitive
reactance,
So technically, it is not a "loading" which would
be designed to make up for the fact that an
antenna is too short for a ? wave resonance.
---
OR buy a 5/8 wave base-loaded 2m mobile whip -
loads on 50-MHz very nicely.  That's an old trick
for dual-band 6m/2m use.  Try brands like Larsen
or Maxrad.

73, Ed - KL7UW



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread charlie carroll
A couple of stories regarding the travels of my K3.  Earlier this month
I was on Montserrat doing the ARRL SSB contest.  The day we left for
home, I had to stop at the local market on the way to the airport.  As
with many things on Montserrat, the market is on a hill with a driveway
that inclines upwards in the 30 degree'ish area.  When I stopped at the
market, the back gate of the car popped open and out came the pelican
case holding my K3.  Three bounces later, the case came to rest. So much
for the shock test.

The same K3 has traveled around Florida numerous times in my car doing
the Florida QSO Party.  That's the vibration test.

Frankly, I'm not losing any sleep over inductor failures.  I'm more
inclined to fail rather than the radio.  Numerous pelican-case
tripsaround the Caribbean for the K3 and even a trip to St. Croix in my
back pack. Will it ever break?  Maybe, but not going to look for a
problem when one doesn't exist.

73 charlie, k1xx/vp2mmf


On 3/26/2016 12:24 AM, Scott Ellington wrote:
> My K3 hasn't traveled much, but if it did, I'd be very concerned about
> all the inductors supported only by their leads.  It seems certain
> that vibration would result in leads breaking.  However, there's a
> note in the KX-1 assembly manual specifically warning against
> fastening the inductors to the board with adhesive.  (That's exactly
> what I was planning to do.)  Why not?  I doubt the reason is
> electrical, unless it's stray capacitance.  The only other reason I
> can think of is that those handling power might get hot enough to melt
> an adhesive.  If that's the case, I'd really like to find another way
> to secure them.  Any suggestions?
>
> Or maybe someone can assure me that with all those K3 getting shipped
> all over the planet for DX-peditions, etc., none of those wires ever
> break.  Ever.  (I'd still take along some magnet wire.)
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread Gary
Since 2008 k3 #679 has enjoyed life "on the road", constantly moving from one 
scenic location to the next.
Nothing seems to have been shaken loose over this time.
I would think by now that if anything was susceptible to working loose it 
should have had a Murphy incident by now?

Elecraft it appears knew about my requirement and developed the k3 just for 
this style of operatinggrin

73
Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "David McAnally" 
Sent: ‎27/‎03/‎2016 4:11 AM
To: "Scott Ellington" 
Cc: "K3 List" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

I have taken my K3 (S/N 6493), KPA500 and KAT500, in padded pelican cases,
over thousands of miles on the road with no apparent problems.  Of course,
this is anecdotal evidence, not before and after specification testing. But
my travel includes some of the worst Oklahoma county roads where there are
more potholes and patch bumps, than original road surface. Gravel washboard
would be smoother. If Elecraft didn't find a need for additional component
support after this many years, I trust their engineering. I worked in
mobile FM business and government radio manufacturing. Those radios
generally had no additional component support on PCBs. They were tested and
met some of the most severe vibration and temperature  specification
requirements.  Perhaps not a apples to apples comparison, but I don't
expect a problem with the K3 line.

David M.
WD5M

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 11:24 PM, Scott Ellington 
wrote:

> My K3 hasn't traveled much, but if it did, I'd be very concerned about all
> the inductors supported only by their leads.  It seems certain that
> vibration would result in leads breaking.  However, there's a note in the
> KX-1 assembly manual specifically warning against fastening the inductors
> to the board with adhesive.  (That's exactly what I was planning to do.)
> Why not?  I doubt the reason is electrical, unless it's stray capacitance.
> The only other reason I can think of is that those handling power might get
> hot enough to melt an adhesive.  If that's the case, I'd really like to
> find another way to secure them.  Any suggestions?
>
> Or maybe someone can assure me that with all those K3 getting shipped all
> over the planet for DX-peditions, etc., none of those wires ever break.
> Ever.  (I'd still take along some magnet wire.)
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
> --
> Scott Ellington  K9MA
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>
> k...@sdellington.us
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 <--> K3 via RemoteRig: Audio recording

2016-03-26 Thread Fred Jensen
Bummer!  That would certainly be a "missing dimension in feature space" 
given the increasing use of remote control.  I suppose it could be a 
result of the RemoteRig design, although at the remote K3, the audio 
from the RR codec goes into the mic connector.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 3/25/2016 3:44 PM, 'DGB' wrote:

No it won't record, has to be done from the K3, even for CW messages. It
will only play what you recorded at your K3 from the remote site (a real
deficiency). This is what I experienced with the K3/0 mini.

73 de NS9I

On 3/25/2016 5:20 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

Hoping someone knows:  If I am logged into my remote K3 via RemoteRig
and I tap REC M1 on my control K3, will it record my mic audio on the
remote K3?  If so, will tapping M1 on my control K3 play that audio on
the air from the remote K3?


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Nr4c
Use Low gain setting. "FPl Bias". 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 26, 2016, at 10:57 AM, Tom  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> The MIC SEL is front panel, Hi Bias.  I have tried all combinations too.
> Tom
> 
> -Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:48 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 
> is too low?
> 
> 
> What is MENU:MIC SEL ?
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 3/26/2016 10:33 AM, Tom wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I seem to have an issue all of a sudden with the mic or radio.  It seems 
>> that if the mic is set to 2 then the output is too high and the ALC meter 
>> hits 7 or 8 bars.  If I turn it down to 1, it barely hits 1 ALC bar. I am 
>> using the Heil headset that Elecraft sells.
>> What am I doing wrong?
>> Thanks, Tom
>> 
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> http://www.avast.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread David McAnally
I have taken my K3 (S/N 6493), KPA500 and KAT500, in padded pelican cases,
over thousands of miles on the road with no apparent problems.  Of course,
this is anecdotal evidence, not before and after specification testing. But
my travel includes some of the worst Oklahoma county roads where there are
more potholes and patch bumps, than original road surface. Gravel washboard
would be smoother. If Elecraft didn't find a need for additional component
support after this many years, I trust their engineering. I worked in
mobile FM business and government radio manufacturing. Those radios
generally had no additional component support on PCBs. They were tested and
met some of the most severe vibration and temperature  specification
requirements.  Perhaps not a apples to apples comparison, but I don't
expect a problem with the K3 line.

David M.
WD5M

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 11:24 PM, Scott Ellington 
wrote:

> My K3 hasn't traveled much, but if it did, I'd be very concerned about all
> the inductors supported only by their leads.  It seems certain that
> vibration would result in leads breaking.  However, there's a note in the
> KX-1 assembly manual specifically warning against fastening the inductors
> to the board with adhesive.  (That's exactly what I was planning to do.)
> Why not?  I doubt the reason is electrical, unless it's stray capacitance.
> The only other reason I can think of is that those handling power might get
> hot enough to melt an adhesive.  If that's the case, I'd really like to
> find another way to secure them.  Any suggestions?
>
> Or maybe someone can assure me that with all those K3 getting shipped all
> over the planet for DX-peditions, etc., none of those wires ever break.
> Ever.  (I'd still take along some magnet wire.)
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
> --
> Scott Ellington  K9MA
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>
> k...@sdellington.us
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread lstavenhagen
For what it's worth, just my personal observations:

I drag my K2, K3 and just recently my K3S all over the place on my /p
outings all the time with no troubles. Now, one thing I did do was invest in
a good Pelican case for that purpose - yes, it was pricey at about $200 but
still a fraction of the investment in the rigs. So when bouncing around on
the floor of the pickup the rig is very well protected. I don't play soccer
with them for sure, but they do get bumps and thumps here and there.

But as for the inductors themselves, they look tiny and fragile, but they're
quite well supported by the leads and any vibration they may undergo looks
to me like it'd be well within the plasticity of the copper wire. On my K2,
I remember this when building my first one. I made sure to get the toroids
as well seated onto the board as possible and they're quite secure once
soldered in. 

On the K2 at least, the sensitive ones have precautions built-in, there's
one toroid (I think it's in the synthesizer) that's bolted down flat to the
board.  And the BFO toroid is secured by the resistor across its leads and
held firmly in place that way. The rest are in the low pass and bandpass
filters, so they're not as critical.

Don, please correct me if any of this is wrong (I'll get a review soon as
I'm now on the RF board build of K2 number 2 hi hi).

In other words, it's not a problem in my experience. Things like wiring
harnesses and big skeletal switch assemblies and so forth are what give
problems when schlepping a rig and none of the K's use those types of
construction. They're designed for portability in that way.

Just my .02,
LS
W5QD





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[Elecraft] Remote Antenna Switches and K2 Questions

2016-03-26 Thread Dauer, Edward
Two questions about the K2 and remote antenna switches – particularly, the 
Ameritron RCS-4.

The K2 I finished building three months ago is finally on the air and, so far, 
working reliably, with great thanks to Don Wilhelm for his knowledge, skill, 
and patience.

It is now on its fourth set of PA transistors, plus a raft of other components 
in the PA circuits.  The story until now had been the same – the rig works fine 
on Don’s bench; he returns it to me where it works fine with a dummy load on my 
bench at my city QTH where real antennas are forbidden.  I then take it to my 
operating QTH where my antennas are, hook it up, and within 20 minutes or less 
a loud pop and a puff of smoke precede the darkness.  PA transistors blown away 
again.  Three times, all the same.  Replaced power supplies twice, added 
cascades of surge suppression on the AC mains, no dice.  Sent the rig back to 
Don for another round of radiology and surgery.  Thrice.

This time, on a hunch, I removed one thing that differed between the operating 
QTH and the test bench in the city – an Ameritron RCS-4 remote antenna switch.  
With that out of the circuit, so far the rig seems happy.  No pop; no smoke; no 
darkness; no tears; no round trip back to North Carolina.

Don suspects the problem has been some mismarked component in the base K2 
which, though it looked right, was of the wrong value and caused an imbalance 
between the two matched PA transistor circuits.  On the rig’s last trip to NC 
Don replaced virtually everything in those circuits.  And now it works OK, so 
far.

I wondered, though, if the RCS-4 could also be a culprit.  That switch inserts 
into the coax feed line the AC and DC voltages that energize its remote relays 
out where the antennas are.  According to the schematic there is no way DC 
voltage could appear at the input side of the switch console.  But with a DMM 
reading the Ameritron’s RF input side, I see some.  There are DC transients as 
high as 5 volts, negative and positive, occurring at odd times and of very 
short duration.  They have never seemed to affect the K3/KPA/KAT, nor the 
KX3/KXPA when these rigs are connected to the same RCS-4.

So, two questions:  First, is it possible that these weird transients from the 
control box could have been the cause of the PA failures?  Has anyone else ever 
experienced anything like this?  Second, rather than test that hypothesis by 
hooking the RCS-4 up to the K2 again, a test that could be expensive, I may 
just look for another remote switching system.  Any suggestions about a 
replacement?  If I need to use a separate DC voltage cable I’ll have to wait 
until the spring thaw in order to bury it – but maybe the DC voltage insertion 
system just isn’t a good idea?

Tnx for any advice anyone can offer,

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Make sure you are FP.L Bias with an electret mic.  FP.H (or rP.H)
will make it nearly impossible to set mic gain levels as the
electret mic has approximately 20 dB more output than a dynamic
mic.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/26/2016 10:57 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
The MIC SEL is front panel, Hi Bias.  I have tried all combinations too.
Tom

-Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting
of 1 is too low?


What is MENU:MIC SEL ?


73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/26/2016 10:33 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
I seem to have an issue all of a sudden with the mic or radio.  It
seems that if the mic is set to 2 then the output is too high and the
ALC meter hits 7 or 8 bars.  If I turn it down to 1, it barely hits 1
ALC bar. I am using the Heil headset that Elecraft sells.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Tom

Hi,
I though I tried this! Yes that does it.  Brings it up to a value of 6.
Thanks!

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm

Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 11:06 AM
To: Tom ; Joe Subich, W4TV ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 
1 is too low?


Tom,

Tap [1] to change the mic gain range to "L" and you should have more
reasonable MIC GAIN settings.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2016 10:57 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
The MIC SEL is front panel, Hi Bias.  I have tried all combinations too.
Tom

-Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting 
of 1 is too low?



What is MENU:MIC SEL ?




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Tap [1] to change the mic gain range to "L" and you should have more 
reasonable MIC GAIN settings.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2016 10:57 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
The MIC SEL is front panel, Hi Bias.  I have tried all combinations too.
Tom

-Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a 
setting of 1 is too low?



What is MENU:MIC SEL ?



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Tom

Hi,
The MIC SEL is front panel, Hi Bias.  I have tried all combinations too.
Tom

-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV

Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2016 10:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 
1 is too low?



What is MENU:MIC SEL ?


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/26/2016 10:33 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
I seem to have an issue all of a sudden with the mic or radio.  It seems 
that if the mic is set to 2 then the output is too high and the ALC meter 
hits 7 or 8 bars.  If I turn it down to 1, it barely hits 1 ALC bar. I am 
using the Heil headset that Elecraft sells.

What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


What is MENU:MIC SEL ?


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/26/2016 10:33 AM, Tom wrote:

Hi,
I seem to have an issue all of a sudden with the mic or radio.  It seems that 
if the mic is set to 2 then the output is too high and the ALC meter hits 7 or 
8 bars.  If I turn it down to 1, it barely hits 1 ALC bar. I am using the Heil 
headset that Elecraft sells.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Tom

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[Elecraft] [K3] Mic setting of 2 is too high? and a setting of 1 is too low?

2016-03-26 Thread Tom
Hi,
I seem to have an issue all of a sudden with the mic or radio.  It seems that 
if the mic is set to 2 then the output is too high and the ALC meter hits 7 or 
8 bars.  If I turn it down to 1, it barely hits 1 ALC bar. I am using the Heil 
headset that Elecraft sells.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KX-1 Inductors

2016-03-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

Read the warning on page 9 of the K3 assembly manual.
It specifically states:
"Also, do not attempt to fix the turns or coils in place with adhesives 
or other materials.
Those toroids needing support have been fixed at the factory. Adding 
material to the other

toroids will alter their inductance, again degrading circuit performance."

In other words, don't do that.  The K2 and K1 carry the same warning as 
the KX1.  I have encountered some of the Elecraft legacy gear in for 
repair that had the toroids fixed to the board with some kind of 
adhesive, it make them a mess to work with.
There have been several K2s that I know about which have been mounted in 
a high vibration environment such as the cab of an OTR truck, and the 
toroid leads have not failed.  The toroids were not fixed in place with 
any adhesive in at least one case - I know that because I built it for 
the customer.


If you do use a fixative, be aware that in the case of repair, toroids 
fastened like that are very difficult to remove and the board may be 
damaged in the process.  I have been there, done that.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 3/26/2016 12:24 AM, Scott Ellington wrote:
My K3 hasn't traveled much, but if it did, I'd be very concerned about 
all the inductors supported only by their leads.  It seems certain 
that vibration would result in leads breaking.  However, there's a 
note in the KX-1 assembly manual specifically warning against 
fastening the inductors to the board with adhesive. (That's exactly 
what I was planning to do.)  Why not?  I doubt the reason is 
electrical, unless it's stray capacitance.  The only other reason I 
can think of is that those handling power might get hot enough to melt 
an adhesive.  If that's the case, I'd really like to find another way 
to secure them.  Any suggestions?


Or maybe someone can assure me that with all those K3 getting shipped 
all over the planet for DX-peditions, etc., none of those wires ever 
break.  Ever.  (I'd still take along some magnet wire.)


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[Elecraft] OT -- J-38 part needed . . . OT Problem Solved !

2016-03-26 Thread Richards


-THANKS for all the suggestions on fixing my J-38 code key.A trip to 
the hardware store produced a No. 6 nylon washer.  Not quite as large as 
the original, but big enough to do the job.   Cost = 68 cents, and now I 
have three spares !


Whew ... turned out to be an easy one.   Happy Trails -  Thanks for all 
the help - I received several good answers - THANKS


--- K8JHR 
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Re: [Elecraft] Delayed Options

2016-03-26 Thread KK6ZZP
Thanks, all, for the information and opinions. Sometimes it's not what we
asked but what we /should/ have asked that's useful, either to the OP or
others. So I appreciate all the information and advice offered.

Some explanation: As it happens, I did read the installation sections of the
KX3 manual/manuals, which seemed well-written and clear. But, not having
seen a partially built KX3, it occurred to me that I might be missing
something. In the case of the K3, which I own but purchased used and
therefore did not have opportunity to build, there seem to be a few very
definite maxims for installing initially vs. installing later. I considered
that perhaps the same /might /be true of the KX3. I mean, the model
identifiers are quite nearly the same, aren't they? (Sometimes I think we
need and should have definite, reserved punctuation for sarcasm, humor.
etc.)

Living, as I do, in a recently constructed Southern California community, my
HOA has a rule that /absolutely/ prohibits visible and possibly invisible
transmitting and receiving antennas, except to the extent regulated by law.
So, at best, my HF antennas of record  are severely compromised. When
one is driven to attempt using the rain gutter as an antenna, an antenna
tuner is more than a mere convenience. 

[Having used the H-- word, please let me offer a couple of precautionary
notes: Advice to move seems to me more than a little ignorant of the local
housing market--or perhaps just a great deal out of date. And unnecessary,
holier-than-thou statements such as, "I'd never live in an HOA community,"
are just that--unnecessary, most especially when the speaker/writer is
ignorant of the life-situation of the one whose choice as to only one
attribute of a multi-attribute preference is being publicly excoriated.
Being new to this board and having read only a few dozen or so replies to
postings, it is perhaps impolitic for me to say, but I think that in some
few cases, perhaps a somewhat better understanding of the context of an OP
and the OP's question might sometimes lead to very slightly more accurate
and practical advice.]

Thanks again!

Chrs,



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