Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Frank Cox]

Thanks Rod,

That fits with my ideas which I put in my last post where I talk about the
solution to the problem. But I didn't have a reason for the one digit being
brighter. Your idea would complete my  theory.

73,

--Frank



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[Elecraft] FS: K3 and P3

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

I'm selling my K3 and P3.  (Overwhelmed by medical bills and need a new car)

The K3 has all the upgrades (KIO3B, K3SYN3, NEOGRIP).  Also has KAT3A 
internal tuner and KPA3A 100 watt internal amplifier. Includes KDVR3 
which has not been installed and is still in original unopened bag.  
Finally, included is all needed cables, the Fred Cady K3 book and 
shipped in original factory box.  This is over $3600 if new.


The P3 includes the P3TXMON option with the DCHF-2000 directional 
coupler.  The P3 is a slight scratch on the side but is otherwise in 
perfect shape.  Screen is unblemished.  The P3 with the cables and TXMON 
is worth over $900 new.


$3300 takes all. (Worth at least $4500 if all new).  PayPal preferred 
(no extra fee, PayPal id:dxvic...@gmail.com).  Shipping extra.


Contact me off-list   Thanks -- Doug -- K0DXV


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Re: [Elecraft] FS (2) RemoteRig RC-1216H

['DGB']

SOLD Thank You


On 5/5/2016 1:23 PM, 'DGB' wrote:

I have two RemoteRig RC-1216H units that are surplus to my needs.

These are Web based remote controls for SteppIR, ACOM-2000A, Expert 
1K-FA,Elecraft KPA500 and Rotators and more.


Also have the .PDF user manual. Asking $225 each or $425 for both 
shipped CONUS. Will take PayPal, postal money order, or a personal 
check with the wait for it to clear the bank.


Tnx 73 Dwight NS9I

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[Elecraft] Problem with KAT2 Bridge Null Adjustment

[Dauer, Edward]

Thanks, Don.  I did check that, and redid all of T1’s solder joints.  No 
change.  I was about to rewind T1 altogether when I decided to check the 
archives.  Using a search method earlier suggested by Phil, W7OX, I found 
a post by you in 2013 answering the very same question.  On reading it 
something struck me — the person posing the question recited that he had 
set the process up by, among other things, turning both R1 and R2 fully 
clockwise.  That hit me — I had read that instruction as full COUNTER 
clockwise!  I checked the manual again, and there it was - full clockwise. 
 So, after doing that the right way, and suffering some chagrin, all was 
good.  The U4 pin 1 voltage is a bit low at 2.8, but the null voltage gets 
down to 006 using C55 as prescribed.

What you just wrote would have been exactly right - if I hadn’t been so 
d*d stupid.  Thank you for not thinking that I could have been.  

“RTFM” is now amended to read “RTFM-C” where C = carefully.

I am posting this on the reflector by way of self-discipline.  If I didn’t 
confess it publicly, I’d be less likely to learn from it.

Thanks, as always.

Ted, KN1CBR






On 5/7/16, 12:24 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:

>Ted,
>
>You will find the problem is with T1.  It must be wound and installed 
>exactly as shown in the manual, and that includes the direction of the 
>winding.
>
>Your K2 is likely putting out all the power it is capable of, so do 
>those TUNEs for only a short period or you will be replacing the PA 
>transistors.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>On 5/7/2016 12:02 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> Advice requested for the following problem:
>>
>> Completed and installed the KIO2.  That works fine, so far as it has 
>>been tested with the outboard ("twins") KPA100 and KAT100.  Next step 
>>was to put the amp and high power tuner aside and install a KAT2 in the 
>>base K2.  [In case it matters, the K2 does not have the battery option.]
>>
>> All went well with the KAT2 until the Bridge Null Adjustment.  There 
>>are two strange symptoms:
>>
>> First, adjusting C55 has no effect, and the display does not behave as 
>>it should.  When Tune is held, the display first says HiCur, then it 
>>quickly changes to ATU and then, again quickly, it changes to 000 and 
>>stays there.  Adjusting C55 to every possible position changes nothing.  
>>Each try produces the same display:  about 2 seconds of HiCur, two 
>>seconds of ATU and then 000.
>>
>> Second, the DC voltage at pin 1 of U4 is way off.  In Receive Mode it 
>>reads 0.0, as it should.  But in Tune mode, at 5 watts indicated, it 
>>reads only 0.69 DCV rather than the 3.0 to 4.0 expected.
>>
>> I haven't put an external power meter on the rig yet but a 15-watt 
>>dummy load gets warm after a while so there does seem to be RF output.
>>
>> I see no solder bridges, no cold joints, no breaks or shorts thatI can 
>>see.  The plugs and sockets have been checked at least five times to 
>>assure they are properly aligned and properly assigned.
>>
>> Any ideas, anyone?  Thanks!
>>
>> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Frank Cox]

I found a solution. I noticed that pressure on the power connector would
sometimes cause a reboot. Reflowing a second time with more solder in that
area cleared up all my problems. 

My theory is that short interruptions in power made the system glitch and
create the symptoms. Remember that the display would go dark and not come
back on even though I could see 5v and 6v power on the board.

The other display issues were due to me not understanding the 7-segment
alphabet used. For example the strange looking T. Once the display stayed on
more than 30 seconds I was able to work it out with email help from support. 



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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with KAT2 Bridge Null Adjustment

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

You will find the problem is with T1.  It must be wound and installed 
exactly as shown in the manual, and that includes the direction of the 
winding.


Your K2 is likely putting out all the power it is capable of, so do 
those TUNEs for only a short period or you will be replacing the PA 
transistors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/7/2016 12:02 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Advice requested for the following problem:

Completed and installed the KIO2.  That works fine, so far as it has been tested with the 
outboard ("twins") KPA100 and KAT100.  Next step was to put the amp and high 
power tuner aside and install a KAT2 in the base K2.  [In case it matters, the K2 does 
not have the battery option.]

All went well with the KAT2 until the Bridge Null Adjustment.  There are two 
strange symptoms:

First, adjusting C55 has no effect, and the display does not behave as it 
should.  When Tune is held, the display first says HiCur, then it quickly 
changes to ATU and then, again quickly, it changes to 000 and stays there.  
Adjusting C55 to every possible position changes nothing.  Each try produces 
the same display:  about 2 seconds of HiCur, two seconds of ATU and then 000.

Second, the DC voltage at pin 1 of U4 is way off.  In Receive Mode it reads 
0.0, as it should.  But in Tune mode, at 5 watts indicated, it reads only 0.69 
DCV rather than the 3.0 to 4.0 expected.

I haven't put an external power meter on the rig yet but a 15-watt dummy load 
gets warm after a while so there does seem to be RF output.

I see no solder bridges, no cold joints, no breaks or shorts thatI can see.  
The plugs and sockets have been checked at least five times to assure they are 
properly aligned and properly assigned.

Any ideas, anyone?  Thanks!

Ted, KN1CBR
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[Elecraft] Problem with KAT2 Bridge Null Adjustment

[Dauer, Edward]

Advice requested for the following problem:

Completed and installed the KIO2.  That works fine, so far as it has been 
tested with the outboard ("twins") KPA100 and KAT100.  Next step was to put the 
amp and high power tuner aside and install a KAT2 in the base K2.  [In case it 
matters, the K2 does not have the battery option.]

All went well with the KAT2 until the Bridge Null Adjustment.  There are two 
strange symptoms:

First, adjusting C55 has no effect, and the display does not behave as it 
should.  When Tune is held, the display first says HiCur, then it quickly 
changes to ATU and then, again quickly, it changes to 000 and stays there.  
Adjusting C55 to every possible position changes nothing.  Each try produces 
the same display:  about 2 seconds of HiCur, two seconds of ATU and then 000.

Second, the DC voltage at pin 1 of U4 is way off.  In Receive Mode it reads 
0.0, as it should.  But in Tune mode, at 5 watts indicated, it reads only 0.69 
DCV rather than the 3.0 to 4.0 expected.

I haven't put an external power meter on the rig yet but a 15-watt dummy load 
gets warm after a while so there does seem to be RF output.

I see no solder bridges, no cold joints, no breaks or shorts thatI can see.  
The plugs and sockets have been checked at least five times to assure they are 
properly aligned and properly assigned.

Any ideas, anyone?  Thanks!

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

[Kevin Stover]

I've got that covered.
I've got a Lincoln Power MIG 216 welder.

On 5/7/2016 7:21 AM, Henry Pollock - K4TMC wrote:

For the 'Kit Version' you will have to upgrade your soldering gear to
welding equipment!

Why wasn't this subject started back on April 1st?

73,
Henry - K4TMC



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

[Henry Pollock - K4TMC]

For the 'Kit Version' you will have to upgrade your soldering gear to
welding equipment!

Why wasn't this subject started back on April 1st?

73,
Henry - K4TMC


On Fri, May 6, 2016 at 9:36 PM, Rick WA6NHC  wrote:

> As with all things Elecraft, the new K-room is configurable any way the
> user desires.  Windows, interior and exterior painting, doors, floors and
> power type (solar, battery, commercial) are all options. Also suitable for
> a more harmonious matrimonial experience if one overspends the household
> budget (commonly referred to as the doghouse model).  May also be used in a
> mobile configuration but without the (apartment) stacking option.  Price
> does not include delivery or local permit fees.
>
> Rick nhc
>
> On 5/6/2016 12:25 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:
>
>> This is the ultimate K-line shack.  Windows will be an optional add on.  I
>> would put one at the base of my tower but I think the 'boss' might require
>> that I live in it. ;o()
>>
>> 73  Joe K2UF
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> John
>> Pitz
>> Sent: Friday, May 06, 2016 2:42 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?
>>
>> new KXPAFULLLEGALLIMIT amp?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 2016-05-06 at 09:56 -0400, Warren Merkel wrote:
>>
>> I ran across this in an undisclosed location.  Could this be the next
>>> Elecraft box radio for Dayton?
>>>
>>> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24789865/Elecraft2016DaytonSecretP
>>> roject.jpg
>>>
>>> Warren, KD4Z
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>>> crustac...@brig-elec.com
>>>
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>> delivered to j...@k2uf.com
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

[Gary]

Whewi started to design a new trailer for the Motorhome so I could upgrade.
Gary

-Original Message-
From: "lstavenhagen" 
Sent: ‎7/‎05/‎2016 12:27 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

Oh it's a shack... I thought it was the new rig. I've been wondering all day
how I was going to fit that into my pelican case.   

73,
LS
W5QD



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