Re: [Elecraft] Did calibration

[Dick Lindzen]

Thanks.

-Original Message-
From: Mark E. Musick [mailto:markmus...@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:58 AM
To: Dick Lindzen; 'Reflector Elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Did calibration

With the firmware upgrade the VFO linking was moved from the sub receiver 
button to the config menu.
Look in the firmware upgrade notes. There you will find the information you 
need to link the VFOs.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick 
Lindzen
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:19 AM
To: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Did calibration

The power issue was solved with a calibration.  Any suggestions for the 
inability in link vfo's?
73, Dick, WO1I K3 911
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Re: [Elecraft] Did calibration

[Mark E. Musick]

With the firmware upgrade the VFO linking was moved from the sub receiver
button to the config menu.
Look in the firmware upgrade notes. There you will find the information you
need to link the VFOs.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick
Lindzen
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 5:19 AM
To: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Did calibration

The power issue was solved with a calibration.  Any suggestions for the
inability in link vfo's?
73, Dick, WO1I K3 911
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[Elecraft] Did calibration

[Dick Lindzen]

The power issue was solved with a calibration.  Any suggestions for the 
inability in link vfo's?
73, Dick, WO1I K3 911
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[Elecraft] Firmware update problem

[Dick Lindzen]

I had not updated the firmware on my K3 in a while, so I went to the Elecraft 
site, downloaded the new K3 utility, found the new firmware, and proceeded to 
download it to the K3.  I have suddenly lost the 100 w amp in the K3, and I can 
no longer link the two vfo's.  I'm not sure what else is screwed up.  Can 
anyone help?
73, Dick WO1I K3 911.
P.S.  I did check the config and KPA3 is set to PA NOR.
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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Nr4c]

Hats are on the order page, near bottom of K3 section I think. 

I got my shirts by volunteering to tear down my station and setup at a local 
ham fest. Elecraft will probably pay for the booth/table, furnish table 
cloth(s) and banner. And they'll send you s nice polo shirt with logo and your 
call and name. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 16, 2016, at 12:44 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
> 
> Can't find any on their website. 
> 
> 73
> 
> Jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[William Rowlett]

With my size 8 it get hard to find anything close.

Bill  KC4ATU


> On Jul 16, 2016, at 11:55 PM, Bob Nielsen  wrote:
> 
> I have the same issue.  I used to tell people that some brains require more 
> room.
> 
> Bob, N7XY
> 
> On 7/16/16 1:53 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>> I find the KHAT to be on the small side. I have a largish head (7 3/4), 
>> somewhat smaller smaller than Bruce Bochy.
>> 
>> http://aroundthefoghorn.com/2014/05/20/just-big-bruce-bochys-head/ 
>> 
>> 
>> wunder
>> K6WRU
>> Walter Underwood
>> CM87wj
>> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>> 
>>> On Jul 16, 2016, at 12:58 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
 Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
 
 Can't find any on their website.
>>> The KHAT ($12) appears on the order page in three different places.
>>> 
>>> http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm
>>> 
>>> Not sure if there's anything else available for purchase from
>>> Elecraft, but there may be "aftermarket options" like:
>>> 
>>> http://www.qsl.net/w9wis/sewdivine/Elecraft_Shirts.html
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>>~iain / N6ML
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Bob Nielsen]

I have the same issue.  I used to tell people that some brains require 
more room.


Bob, N7XY

On 7/16/16 1:53 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

I find the KHAT to be on the small side. I have a largish head (7 3/4), 
somewhat smaller smaller than Bruce Bochy.

http://aroundthefoghorn.com/2014/05/20/just-big-bruce-bochys-head/ 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Jul 16, 2016, at 12:58 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML  wrote:

On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:

Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?

Can't find any on their website.

The KHAT ($12) appears on the order page in three different places.

http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm

Not sure if there's anything else available for purchase from
Elecraft, but there may be "aftermarket options" like:

http://www.qsl.net/w9wis/sewdivine/Elecraft_Shirts.html

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Dave Fugleberg]

At Dayton a couple years ago, you got an Elecraft hat with purchase of a
K3 This year at Dayton, they had the choice of a hat or t-shirt with
purchase of certain gear, including the P3.
So, I've spent about 4k for a hat and a t-shirt, but they came with a very
nice radio and panadapter :)
On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 5:02 PM Clay Autery  wrote:

> Wish I'd have gotten a shirt when I bought my hat at HAMCOM, Irving, TX.
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/16/2016 11:44 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
> > Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
> >
> > Can't find any on their website.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Jim ab3cv
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - communication failure after KIO3B upgrade

[Barry Simpson]

Hi Carl

Have you actually set RS232 to USB in the Config menu ?  Just a thought.

Barry  VK2BJ

On 17 July 2016 at 11:47, Carl Clawson  wrote:

> Thanks Lyle. I tried those things. If it's a cable problem then I must have
> TWO defective cables, because feeding RS232 to the P3 and connecting the
> single-headed cable to the K3 also results in no communications to the K3.
> And yes, I put the K3 in RS232 mode at 38400 baud when I tried that.
>
> -- Carl
>
> On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 5:52 PM, Lyle Johnson  wrote:
>
> > Carl,
> >
> > A couple of thoughts.
> >
> > 1) Losing communications with the Y cable plugged into the KIO3B but not
> > having BOTH DE-9 connectors attached to the P3 will result in no
> > communications.  The KIO3B senses the Y cable and routes the USB side
> > communications to the P3 which then routes signals to the K3.
> >
> > 2) Be sure the cable is fully seated into the jack on the KIO3B. The
> > plastic lock should "click" into place.  You can verify this with a
> gentle
> > tug on the cable after it is inserted to verify it is fully seated.
> >
> > 3) Be sure the P3 is set to 38,400 bps on its serial ports.
> >
> > 4) If the cable is fully seated and the P3 is set to 38,400 bps and you
> > still have the problem, I'd suspect the Y cable being defective.  I don;t
> > know if the schematics for the cable are on the website or supplied with
> > the cable to assist you in troubleshooting the cable if you so desire, so
> > it may require a call to support on Monday, or an email directly to them.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Lyle KK7P
> >
> >
> > Maybe the combined wisdom of the group will be able to help before I send
> >> this to Elecraft support.
> >>
> >> I installed the KIO3B upgrade in my K3. The USB interface from PC to K3
> >> works but only if you don't plug a cable in the RS232/P3 jack. The RS232
> >> connection to the P3 isn't happening...
> >>
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I recommend you sending an e-mail to k3support at elecraft dot com. They
will get the answer or send it on to the design engineers. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 5:13 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
RJ12 cable)

Thanks Ron...

I know it is straight through, but the color codes on the shipping cable are
key to my research/testing so I can determine:

1) Which signals are paired/not paired, and

2) Which pair signals are on (due to the differing twist rate on each pair).

If the shipping cable isn't using twisted pair, I would be even more
interested in doing some testing...

Again, my ??s revolve around making extended cables and finding out how long
they can be extended before "issues" arise...

There are a number of ways to "trick" signal circuits into allowing longer
than "standard" cables as "within spec".

We made 30 foot long IDE cables that worked fine back when they were telling
us that they could be no longer than 24 inches max...  We also made standard
length cables that actually IMPOROVED IDE HDD performance because we
"cleaned up" the signals in various ways...

As I said... just a thought exercise at the moment...


73,

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 5:47 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Hi Clay:
>
> It is a simple straight through cable. I can't give you the color 
> codes because I don't have the specific cable being shipped. The cable 
> I have is a modified RJ12 (pin 1 disconnected at both ends so I don't 
> care which one I plug into the K3S). The factory was still making up 
> cables when they sent a field test K-Pod to me.
>
> I would not hesitate to make up another by just mounting a pair of 
> male 6P6C connectors on the ends of ordinary 6-wire telephone cable, 
> clipping off one wire since pin 1 isn't used.
>
> The Project Engineer hasn't mentioned any concerns about twisting 
> conductors or pairing the wires in any particular order. What I have 
> is a flat cable w/o any twisted pairs. I doubt if it is possible to 
> connect the wires to the connectors in any order than they way they 
> are molded in the cable. The only 'trick' is to be sure one connector 
> is turned over so pin 2 at one end connects to pin 2 at the other end, and
so on.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 2:53 PM
> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, 
> (longer
> RJ12 cable)
>
> No problem Ron...  So can someone tell me:
>
> Is the Elecraft cable that comes with the K-Pod a simple straight 
> through cable?
>
> What wire color or color/stripe conductor is on each pin?
>
> I dug through the schematics, et al last night and figured out what 
> each is named...  Just wondering if any thought was given to which 
> pins share paired conductors, why, and if anyone considered the twist 
> rate in choosing which pair to use to carry a signal/voltage...
>
> Since only 5 of 6 conductors are used, one conductor has no paired mate...
>
> It's a thought experiment for now...
>
> But the REASON is to see if the standard cable is optimized as is for 
> using an EXTENDED cable...  e.g. I want to figure out how long we can 
> make the cable before timing/sig degradation, etc becomes an issue...
>
> Also, I think I have seen at least one report where the cable 
> construction MIGHT have been the issue...
>
> "Roll your own" isn't as simple as one might think when the paired 
> signals are not differential "mates".
>
>
> 73,
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/16/2016 10:45 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Clay. That's a typo. See appendix B of the manual. 
>>
>> Tnx for the head's up. That's an old reference that should be been
> removed.
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
>> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 8:35 PM
>> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, 
>> (longer
>> RJ12 cable)
>>
>> RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
>> RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).
>>
>> I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...
>>
>> No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see 
>> if it is at all illuminating...
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" 
>>> numbers refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 
>>> cable since only 5 conductors are used.
>>>
>>> 73, 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 - communication failure after KIO3B upgrade

[Carl Clawson]

Thanks Lyle. I tried those things. If it's a cable problem then I must have
TWO defective cables, because feeding RS232 to the P3 and connecting the
single-headed cable to the K3 also results in no communications to the K3.
And yes, I put the K3 in RS232 mode at 38400 baud when I tried that.

-- Carl

On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 5:52 PM, Lyle Johnson  wrote:

> Carl,
>
> A couple of thoughts.
>
> 1) Losing communications with the Y cable plugged into the KIO3B but not
> having BOTH DE-9 connectors attached to the P3 will result in no
> communications.  The KIO3B senses the Y cable and routes the USB side
> communications to the P3 which then routes signals to the K3.
>
> 2) Be sure the cable is fully seated into the jack on the KIO3B. The
> plastic lock should "click" into place.  You can verify this with a gentle
> tug on the cable after it is inserted to verify it is fully seated.
>
> 3) Be sure the P3 is set to 38,400 bps on its serial ports.
>
> 4) If the cable is fully seated and the P3 is set to 38,400 bps and you
> still have the problem, I'd suspect the Y cable being defective.  I don;t
> know if the schematics for the cable are on the website or supplied with
> the cable to assist you in troubleshooting the cable if you so desire, so
> it may require a call to support on Monday, or an email directly to them.
>
> 73,
>
> Lyle KK7P
>
>
> Maybe the combined wisdom of the group will be able to help before I send
>> this to Elecraft support.
>>
>> I installed the KIO3B upgrade in my K3. The USB interface from PC to K3
>> works but only if you don't plug a cable in the RS232/P3 jack. The RS232
>> connection to the P3 isn't happening...
>>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

[Gerald Manthey]

Hey Gary hope all is well!
Did you pack up and move because of weather? LOL 
Yeah I'm looking for some down size for when I'm at the cabin. It is solar 
power and would be nice to be able to watch P3 for a couple of lines rather 
than a word at a time on the K3. Also room is an issue here too. 

Okay hopefully if the can do the PX3 they can do it to the P3. Fingers crossed. 

Take care Gary we still need to arrange a qso. Hihi 

> On Jul 16, 2016, at 8:29 PM, Gary  wrote:
> 
> This is the main reason I no longer have my P3.
> The second was the TX monitor which did not meet my requirement.
> An extra monitor in the motor home simply will not fit.
> Admittedly cost became a factor as well given the add on hardware as well as 
> the monitor and it all got to difficult.
> However, I love my K-line and don't plan on replacing it in this lifetime.
> Gary
> From: Gerald Manthey
> Sent: ‎17/‎07/‎2016 11:06 AM
> To: donw...@embarqmail.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3
> 
> Hello Don
> Yeah I have that but was hoping it would work on just the P3 like the PX3 
> does do I did not have to set up a monitor. 
> 
> 
> > On Jul 16, 2016, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> > 
> > Gerald,
> > 
> > Add the P3SVGA option and you can see the text on the SVGA monitor.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Don w3FPR
> > 
> >> On 7/16/2016 8:24 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
> >> Will the P3 ever get the ability to have decoded text on the P3 screen like
> >> the PX3?
> >> That why if I run field day I can read the text off of my P3 two line
> >> screens. Would be nice to have that.
> > 
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Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

[Gary]

This is the main reason I no longer have my P3.
The second was the TX monitor which did not meet my requirement.
An extra monitor in the motor home simply will not fit.
Admittedly cost became a factor as well given the add on hardware as well as 
the monitor and it all got to difficult.
However, I love my K-line and don't plan on replacing it in this lifetime.
Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Gerald Manthey" 
Sent: ‎17/‎07/‎2016 11:06 AM
To: "donw...@embarqmail.com" 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

Hello Don
Yeah I have that but was hoping it would work on just the P3 like the PX3 does 
do I did not have to set up a monitor. 


> On Jul 16, 2016, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Gerald,
> 
> Add the P3SVGA option and you can see the text on the SVGA monitor.
> 
> 73,
> Don w3FPR
> 
>> On 7/16/2016 8:24 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
>> Will the P3 ever get the ability to have decoded text on the P3 screen like
>> the PX3?
>> That why if I run field day I can read the text off of my P3 two line
>> screens. Would be nice to have that.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

[Gerald Manthey]

Hello Don
Yeah I have that but was hoping it would work on just the P3 like the PX3 does 
do I did not have to set up a monitor. 


> On Jul 16, 2016, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Gerald,
> 
> Add the P3SVGA option and you can see the text on the SVGA monitor.
> 
> 73,
> Don w3FPR
> 
>> On 7/16/2016 8:24 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
>> Will the P3 ever get the ability to have decoded text on the P3 screen like
>> the PX3?
>> That why if I run field day I can read the text off of my P3 two line
>> screens. Would be nice to have that.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - communication failure after KIO3B upgrade

[Lyle Johnson]

Carl,

A couple of thoughts.

1) Losing communications with the Y cable plugged into the KIO3B but not 
having BOTH DE-9 connectors attached to the P3 will result in no 
communications.  The KIO3B senses the Y cable and routes the USB side 
communications to the P3 which then routes signals to the K3.


2) Be sure the cable is fully seated into the jack on the KIO3B. The 
plastic lock should "click" into place.  You can verify this with a 
gentle tug on the cable after it is inserted to verify it is fully seated.


3) Be sure the P3 is set to 38,400 bps on its serial ports.

4) If the cable is fully seated and the P3 is set to 38,400 bps and you 
still have the problem, I'd suspect the Y cable being defective.  I 
don;t know if the schematics for the cable are on the website or 
supplied with the cable to assist you in troubleshooting the cable if 
you so desire, so it may require a call to support on Monday, or an 
email directly to them.


73,

Lyle KK7P



Maybe the combined wisdom of the group will be able to help before I send
this to Elecraft support.

I installed the KIO3B upgrade in my K3. The USB interface from PC to K3
works but only if you don't plug a cable in the RS232/P3 jack. The RS232
connection to the P3 isn't happening...

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

RR  thanks...  think I've established that they are using flat
ribbon 6-conductor cable with the "old" color scheme, parallel,
non-twisted...

And yes, all my experience says that:

1) using PROPERLY constructed twisted-pair cable choosing the correct
pairs (use 3 of 4 pair on CAT-5/6/7 wire, will yield a much more robust
standard length cable... and
2) significantly extended cable will likely REQUIRE some form of twisted
pairing, and perhaps even some additional "tricks" like 1 ground (Vss)
per signal, etc, etc... and perhaps even an STP with the shield bonded
to the chassis on the K-pod and K3(s) etc...

I don't KNOW any of this...  But all of my experience leads me to think
in this direction.

Granted, at the moment it is a solution in search of a problem.  ;-)


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 7:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Clay,
>
> The cable is 5 (active) parallel wires, no twisted pairs.
> Yes, you can probably construct a cable with twisted pairs that would
> work well over a much greater distance, but that is only a guess at
> this point.
> Why not give it a try and report your results.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/16/2016 8:13 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Thanks Ron...
>>
>> I know it is straight through, but the color codes on the shipping cable
>> are key to my research/testing so I can determine:
>>
>> 1) Which signals are paired/not paired, and
>>
>> 2) Which pair signals are on (due to the differing twist rate on each
>> pair).
>>
>> If the shipping cable isn't using twisted pair, I would be even more
>> interested in doing some testing...
>>
>>
>

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[Elecraft] K3 for sale

[a...@juno.com]

Details and photos:
http://ae5x.blogspot.com/2016/07/elecraft-k3-for-sale.html

73,

John AE5X




Affordable Wireless Plans
Set up is easy. Get online in minutes.
Starting at only $9.95 per month! 
www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216
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Re: [Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

[Don Wilhelm]

Gerald,

Add the P3SVGA option and you can see the text on the SVGA monitor.

73,
Don w3FPR

On 7/16/2016 8:24 PM, KC6CNN wrote:

Will the P3 ever get the ability to have decoded text on the P3 screen like
the PX3?
That why if I run field day I can read the text off of my P3 two line
screens. Would be nice to have that.



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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Don Wilhelm]

Clay,

The cable is 5 (active) parallel wires, no twisted pairs.
Yes, you can probably construct a cable with twisted pairs that would 
work well over a much greater distance, but that is only a guess at this 
point.

Why not give it a try and report your results.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/16/2016 8:13 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

Thanks Ron...

I know it is straight through, but the color codes on the shipping cable
are key to my research/testing so I can determine:

1) Which signals are paired/not paired, and

2) Which pair signals are on (due to the differing twist rate on each pair).

If the shipping cable isn't using twisted pair, I would be even more
interested in doing some testing...




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[Elecraft] K3 - communication failure after KIO3B upgrade

[Carl Clawson]

Maybe the combined wisdom of the group will be able to help before I send
this to Elecraft support.

I installed the KIO3B upgrade in my K3. The USB interface from PC to K3
works but only if you don't plug a cable in the RS232/P3 jack. The RS232
connection to the P3 isn't happening -- no frequency info or VFO cursors
are displayed. Just hooking it up causes communication with the K3 to fail.
Even if the connectors to the P3 are left unplugged, simply plugging the
cable into the RS232/P3 jack causes communication to fail. If I try RS232
mode, the PC can talk to the P3 with the P3 utility, but cannot talk to the
K3.

There are some slightly different symptoms, depending, so here's more:

1. USB mode, CBLP3Y plugged into the K3 jack but not plugged into P3.
Starting the K3 utility yields the message "K3 waiting for firmware load."

2. If I plug the Y cable into the P3 and start the K3 Utility, it cycles
through baud rates and never sees the K3. The same happens if I use RS232
mode and connect the PC to the P3 and the P3 to the K3 with the
single-headed cable.

All firmware and utilities are up to date and I've double and triple
checked all the settings I can think of. I even re-opened the top to double
check the USB/RS232 switch on the KIO3B.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking that my digital IO board might be faulty.

Thanks,
Carl WS7L
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[Elecraft] Decoded Text on the P3

[KC6CNN]

Will the P3 ever get the ability to have decoded text on the P3 screen like
the PX3?
That why if I run field day I can read the text off of my P3 two line
screens. Would be nice to have that. 
73 Gerald




-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K1 # 0014
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Decoded-Text-on-the-P3-tp7620253.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] TXMON for P3

[David F. Reed]

I just received and installed the TX MON for the P3.  It was an easy 
installation, went by quickly and seamlessly.


The proof is in the pudding; a few menu selections on the P3 and 
everything is as planned and works just great!


If you are sitting on the fence about adding one, I can assure you that 
you will probably like it as much as I do.


Keep up the great work Elecraft!

Now if only my KXPD2 would show up...

73 de Dave. W5SV

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

Thanks Ron...

I know it is straight through, but the color codes on the shipping cable
are key to my research/testing so I can determine:

1) Which signals are paired/not paired, and

2) Which pair signals are on (due to the differing twist rate on each pair).

If the shipping cable isn't using twisted pair, I would be even more
interested in doing some testing...

Again, my ??s revolve around making extended cables and finding out how
long they can be extended before "issues" arise...

There are a number of ways to "trick" signal circuits into allowing
longer than "standard" cables as "within spec".

We made 30 foot long IDE cables that worked fine back when they were
telling us that they could be no longer than 24 inches max...  We also
made standard length cables that actually IMPOROVED IDE HDD performance
because we "cleaned up" the signals in various ways...

As I said... just a thought exercise at the moment...


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 5:47 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Hi Clay:
>
> It is a simple straight through cable. I can't give you the color codes
> because I don't have the specific cable being shipped. The cable I have is a
> modified RJ12 (pin 1 disconnected at both ends so I don't care which one I
> plug into the K3S). The factory was still making up cables when they sent a
> field test K-Pod to me.
>
> I would not hesitate to make up another by just mounting a pair of male 6P6C
> connectors on the ends of ordinary 6-wire telephone cable, clipping off one
> wire since pin 1 isn't used. 
>
> The Project Engineer hasn't mentioned any concerns about twisting conductors
> or pairing the wires in any particular order. What I have is a flat cable
> w/o any twisted pairs. I doubt if it is possible to connect the wires to the
> connectors in any order than they way they are molded in the cable. The only
> 'trick' is to be sure one connector is turned over so pin 2 at one end
> connects to pin 2 at the other end, and so on. 
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 2:53 PM
> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
> RJ12 cable)
>
> No problem Ron...  So can someone tell me:
>
> Is the Elecraft cable that comes with the K-Pod a simple straight through
> cable?
>
> What wire color or color/stripe conductor is on each pin?
>
> I dug through the schematics, et al last night and figured out what each is
> named...  Just wondering if any thought was given to which pins share paired
> conductors, why, and if anyone considered the twist rate in choosing which
> pair to use to carry a signal/voltage...
>
> Since only 5 of 6 conductors are used, one conductor has no paired mate...
>
> It's a thought experiment for now...
>
> But the REASON is to see if the standard cable is optimized as is for using
> an EXTENDED cable...  e.g. I want to figure out how long we can make the
> cable before timing/sig degradation, etc becomes an issue...
>
> Also, I think I have seen at least one report where the cable construction
> MIGHT have been the issue...
>
> "Roll your own" isn't as simple as one might think when the paired signals
> are not differential "mates".
>
>
> 73,
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/16/2016 10:45 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Clay. That's a typo. See appendix B of the manual. 
>>
>> Tnx for the head's up. That's an old reference that should be been
> removed.
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
>> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 8:35 PM
>> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, 
>> (longer
>> RJ12 cable)
>>
>> RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
>> RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).
>>
>> I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...
>>
>> No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if 
>> it is at all illuminating...
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" 
>>> numbers refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable 
>>> since only 5 conductors are used.
>>>
>>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>

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[Elecraft] Wanted: KFL3B-FM Filter

[Clay Autery]

Does anyone have an extra KFL3B-FM 13kHz FM filter they'd be willing to
part with?

Reply here or directly to my email with your terms.

73,

-- 
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

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[Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Joe W2KJ]

Howdy Gang:

Many thanks for all of the uniformly favorable comments regarding the KXPD2 
paddle for the KX2.

Will seriously consider getting one for my KX2.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Clay:

It is a simple straight through cable. I can't give you the color codes
because I don't have the specific cable being shipped. The cable I have is a
modified RJ12 (pin 1 disconnected at both ends so I don't care which one I
plug into the K3S). The factory was still making up cables when they sent a
field test K-Pod to me.

I would not hesitate to make up another by just mounting a pair of male 6P6C
connectors on the ends of ordinary 6-wire telephone cable, clipping off one
wire since pin 1 isn't used. 

The Project Engineer hasn't mentioned any concerns about twisting conductors
or pairing the wires in any particular order. What I have is a flat cable
w/o any twisted pairs. I doubt if it is possible to connect the wires to the
connectors in any order than they way they are molded in the cable. The only
'trick' is to be sure one connector is turned over so pin 2 at one end
connects to pin 2 at the other end, and so on. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 2:53 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
RJ12 cable)

No problem Ron...  So can someone tell me:

Is the Elecraft cable that comes with the K-Pod a simple straight through
cable?

What wire color or color/stripe conductor is on each pin?

I dug through the schematics, et al last night and figured out what each is
named...  Just wondering if any thought was given to which pins share paired
conductors, why, and if anyone considered the twist rate in choosing which
pair to use to carry a signal/voltage...

Since only 5 of 6 conductors are used, one conductor has no paired mate...

It's a thought experiment for now...

But the REASON is to see if the standard cable is optimized as is for using
an EXTENDED cable...  e.g. I want to figure out how long we can make the
cable before timing/sig degradation, etc becomes an issue...

Also, I think I have seen at least one report where the cable construction
MIGHT have been the issue...

"Roll your own" isn't as simple as one might think when the paired signals
are not differential "mates".


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 10:45 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Clay. That's a typo. See appendix B of the manual. 
>
> Tnx for the head's up. That's an old reference that should be been
removed.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 8:35 PM
> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, 
> (longer
> RJ12 cable)
>
> RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
> RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).
>
> I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...
>
> No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if 
> it is at all illuminating...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" 
>> numbers refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable 
>> since only 5 conductors are used.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>> ---


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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Clay Autery]

Wish I'd have gotten a shirt when I bought my hat at HAMCOM, Irving, TX.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 11:44 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
> Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
>
> Can't find any on their website. 
>
> 73
>
> Jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Clay Autery]

No problem Ron...  So can someone tell me:

Is the Elecraft cable that comes with the K-Pod a simple straight
through cable?

What wire color or color/stripe conductor is on each pin?

I dug through the schematics, et al last night and figured out what each
is named...  Just wondering if any thought was given to which pins share
paired conductors, why, and if anyone considered the twist rate in
choosing which pair to use to carry a signal/voltage...

Since only 5 of 6 conductors are used, one conductor has no paired mate...

It's a thought experiment for now...

But the REASON is to see if the standard cable is optimized as is for
using an EXTENDED cable...  e.g. I want to figure out how long we can
make the cable before timing/sig degradation, etc becomes an issue...

Also, I think I have seen at least one report where the cable
construction MIGHT have been the issue...

"Roll your own" isn't as simple as one might think when the paired
signals are not differential "mates".


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/16/2016 10:45 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Clay. That's a typo. See appendix B of the manual. 
>
> Tnx for the head's up. That's an old reference that should be been removed.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 8:35 PM
> To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
> RJ12 cable)
>
> RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
> RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).
>
> I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...
>
> No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if it is
> at all illuminating...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" 
>> numbers refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable 
>> since only 5 conductors are used.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>> ---

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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Edward Kacura via Elecraft]

In a word Joe, it's worthwhile !
I'm so glad I ordered one, I love it !
It's a great improvement over the KX3 paddle IMO !
I'm seriously thinking of getting a second one for my KX3 I love the new one so 
well.

73 de Ed
N7EDK

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 16, 2016, at 11:49, Joe W2KJ  wrote:
> 
> Howdy Gang:
> 
> I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this 
> paddle?
> 
> Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition to 
> the KX2?
> 
> Many thanks for any info.
> 
>73, Joe W2KJ
>I QRP, therefore I am
>KX3, KX2

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 - Programming Commands

[Neil Zampella]

Hi Dick,

OK, I misunderstood this as a new feature, from the Elecraft website 
firmware notes:


 * Add manual switch to disable amplifier with ATU available:
 * MODE button HOLD now toggles power amplifier bypass.
 * Power ON LED blinks slowly when PA is bypassed.

So, based on what you're saying, I can use ~OP0 to bypass the amplifier, 
but still have access the KXPA100's ATU, right?


Great ... thanks for that clarification.

Neil Zampella
KN3ILZ


On 7/16/2016 9:51 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

The most recent KXPA100 Programmer's reference is 1.18.

No new commands have been recently added.  What was added in 1.35 was the
ability to HOLD the MODE button to toggle PA operate/standby (PA bypass).

The KXPA Utility uses ^OP to change PA bypass. This is described on page 19
of the KXPA Programming Reference.  ^OP is not at all new.

73 de Dick, K6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Bernie Gardner]

I've been using my KXPD3 with the KX2 while waiting for the KXOD2 (just 
left the left screw out for now.)  I had the same problem with having to 
press harder on the paddles than I wanted to, especially with only one 
screw attaching it to the radio.  I figured there might be some 
oxidation on the paddle contacts and bought a can of Deoxit D5 from 
Radio Shack.  A couple of sprays and the paddle responds fine now.


Bernie
W1AZ


Ed Muns 
Saturday, July 16, 2016 4:33 PM
The KXPD2 feels really good to me.  It works well with the lightweight 
radio, even with my relatively heavy fist.  There is only one 
adjustment--contact spacing, which is easy with the attached Allen key.

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--
Sent from Postbox 


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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Walter Underwood]

I find the KHAT to be on the small side. I have a largish head (7 3/4), 
somewhat smaller smaller than Bruce Bochy.

http://aroundthefoghorn.com/2014/05/20/just-big-bruce-bochys-head/ 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jul 16, 2016, at 12:58 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML  wrote:
> 
> On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
>> Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
>> 
>> Can't find any on their website.
> 
> The KHAT ($12) appears on the order page in three different places.
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm
> 
> Not sure if there's anything else available for purchase from
> Elecraft, but there may be "aftermarket options" like:
> 
> http://www.qsl.net/w9wis/sewdivine/Elecraft_Shirts.html
> 
> 73,
> 
>~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Ed Muns]

The KXPD2 feels really good to me.  It works well with the lightweight radio, 
even with my relatively heavy fist.  There is only one adjustment--contact 
spacing, which is easy with the attached Allen key.
On Jul 16, 2016 11:14 AM, Ken Talbott  wrote:
>
> This week I replaced the KXDP3 paddle on my KX2 with the KXPD2.  I like the 
> feel and adjustability of the KXPD2.  Since it is shorter, the rig does not 
> tend to move around as much.  I had problems with the KXPD3 which forced me 
> to be very assertive!  The KXPD2 seems (so far) to operate with a much 
> lighter touch.  If you like the idea of a closely integrated paddle and do 
> not own either, I would recommend the KXPD2.  If you own a KXPD3 and it is 
> functioning well, I would continue to use it.  BTW, I am still  eating my 
> way up the CW food chain.  Most of my operating is between 10 and 15 WPM for 
> ragchews with frequent excursions above 20 WPM for contests in which the 
> exchanges are predictable.  You might want to wait for feedback from a QRQ 
> operator. 
> GL de ken ke4rg 
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe 
> W2KJ 
> Sent: July 16, 2016 11:50 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2 
>
> Howdy Gang: 
>
> I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this 
> paddle? 
>
> Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition 
> to the KX2? 
>
> Many thanks for any info. 
>
> 73, Joe W2KJ 
> I QRP, therefore I am 
> KX3, KX2 
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> delivered to ktalb...@gamewood.net 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

On Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 12:24 PM, Fred C. Jensen  wrote:
> (End Fed On 80 But Works Great On Other Bands Too). :-)

One of the endearing qualities of an 80 meter end-fed half-wave L is
that it is usually a very good antenna for both 7 and 10 MHz. If the
bend of the L is somewhere close to the middle of the wire, as in up
55 out 75, up 70 out 60, we get some interesting if counter-intuitive
effects.

On 40 the wire acts like a 40 dipole hung in the same air space. Due
to the interaction of the vertical and horizontal parts of the L, the
vertical wire becomes a single wire feedline. Very easy to model. Try
it and get used to the idea that to the naked brain that doesn't make
any sense.

On 30m the pattern is a low-ish angle omnidirectional.

Since it is a high Z feedpoint on all three bands, one half-wave on
80, two on 40 and three on 30, the use of pathetic ground is permitted
at the feedpoint. If you add the switching and an FCP, this becomes a
very efficient antenna for 160-80-40-30. Use of the pathetic ground on
160, since that is a *current* feed rather than a voltage feed will
produce a pathetic 160 radiated signal.

73, Guy K2AV
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Re: [Elecraft] A955 = λ

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

No, please don't use anything beyond the 0x20 to 0x7E standard ASCII
characters range. There are too many different delivery options for these
messages to reliably render anything outside this range correctly. I am
using marc.info to read messages and Nabble to respond to them.  Using fancy
email clients to create HTML codes for the standard ASCII apostrophe and
quotation marks is also an irritating, but common "feature" on this
reflector.

AB2TC - Knut


Charlie T, K3ICH wrote
> Instead of typing out "lambda", just hold down the "ALT" key and type 955
> = λ
> 
> Same for :
> Alt 171 = ½
> Alt 172 = ¼
> Alt 0216 = Ø
> Alt 227 = π
> Alt 234 = Ω
> 
> There's lots more where those came from...
> 
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:

> elecraft-bounces@.qth

> ] On Behalf Of Hank
> Garretson
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 12:38 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector <

> elecraft@.qth

> >
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies
> 
> Counterpoises are good.
> 
> Also very helpful is to adjust total length of flattop and feedline to be
> an odd multiple of Lambda/4 for the bands of interest. This keeps max RF
> voltage peaks out of the shack. Not always convenient to do if you want
> multiple bands.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Hank, W6SX
> 
> 
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> Message delivered to 

> lists+1215531472858-365791@.nabble





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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-A955-tp7620230p7620240.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2

[Jim GM]

H Could it be a Long wire, Inverted L or even a comes under so many of the 
Slopper perhaps?

Jim K9TF

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Re: [Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?
>
> Can't find any on their website.

The KHAT ($12) appears on the order page in three different places.

http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm

Not sure if there's anything else available for purchase from
Elecraft, but there may be "aftermarket options" like:

http://www.qsl.net/w9wis/sewdivine/Elecraft_Shirts.html

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Ken Talbott]

My KXPD3 paddle (which I purchased used) is prone to miss depressions of
either side, usually at the worse time in a QSO.  There was an early fix by
Elecraft which by inspection I believe was installed.  Assertive?  I have to
pound on the paddles much harder than I would like to avoid missing one or
more character elements.

Ken - ke4rg

 

From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:w...@socal.rr.com] 
Sent: July 16, 2016 14:25
To: Ken Talbott ; 'Joe W2KJ' ;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

 

Ken,

Please clarify what is meant by "I had problems with the KXPD3 which forced
me to be very assertive!": What problems, and assertive in what respect?

Really a bit academic: I never owned the KXPD3 and have ordered the KXPD2
for its shorter arm and less tendency to move the KX2 around, as you
observed.

Like many here, I still wait for my KXPD2 to ship.

73, Phil W7OX

On 7/16/16 11:14 AM, Ken Talbott wrote:

This week I replaced the KXDP3 paddle on my KX2 with the KXPD2.  I like the
feel and adjustability of the KXPD2.  Since it is shorter, the rig does not
tend to move around as much.  I had problems with the KXPD3 which forced me
to be very assertive!  The KXPD2 seems (so far) to operate with a much
lighter touch.  If you like the idea of a closely integrated paddle and do
not own either, I would recommend the KXPD2.  If you own a KXPD3 and it is
functioning well, I would continue to use it.  BTW, I am still  eating my
way up the CW food chain.  Most of my operating is between 10 and 15 WPM for
ragchews with frequent excursions above 20 WPM for contests in which the
exchanges are predictable.  You might want to wait for feedback from a QRQ
operator.
GL de ken ke4rg
 
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
W2KJ
Sent: July 16, 2016 11:50
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net  
Subject: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2
 
Howdy Gang:
 
I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this
paddle?
 
Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition
to the KX2?
 
Many thanks for any info.
 
 73, Joe W2KJ
 I QRP, therefore I am
 KX3, KX2

 

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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Tuning a Counterpoise

[Drew AF2Z]

Tks, Ron- I'll keep that in mind. My counterpoises lie on a flat roof 
adjacent the shack. I've never tried to tune them other than initially 
cutting them to theoretical best length; I suppose they could be better...


73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/16/16 13:39, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

One approach to reduce "RF in the shack" using an end-fed wire is to
resonate the "counterpoise" for the band you are using. MFJ made just such a
"tuner" (model 931 IIRC) but any tunable L-network will work. The idea is to
adjust the "tuner" for maximum current flowing into the counterpoise
(meaning the counterpoise is offering the lowest possible impedance to the
equipment it is connected to.) I have successfully used that in a 2nd story
apartment feeding an end-fed wire running outside. I know one Ham who bought
the MFJ box and found it worked FB.

For a homebrew "counterpoise tuner" you'll need an RF ammeter but a good
cheap one is an incandescent flashlight bulb in series  where the
counterpoise connects to the rig chassis. Tune for the counterpoise for
maximum brightness with the rig running at the lowest power that will light
the bulb, then short-circuit the bulb for higher power. Of course, the
adjustments will interact with the tuner settings for the end-fed wire. But
the "tuning" of the counterpoise is usually broad enough (low-Q) that noting
the settings for each band you can return to them without doing the whole
retuning thing again. (The MFJ box my buddy bought has an ammeter built in.)


My "counterpoise" was a thin white wire run around the baseboard of the
shack and down the hall - about 30 feet total. White wire + apartment white
wall = invisible counterpoise. Worked FB 40 through 10 meters.

While that will reduce the RF voltage on the rig itself, you will be sitting
in a high-level RF field from the end fed wire, which limits your maximum
power to meet radiation exposure limits, depending upon how far from you the
antenna is located and the band you are using.

73, Ron AC7AC

  






   




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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Tuning a Counterpoise

[Phil Wheeler]

Thanks, Ron. You just reminded me that I have an 
MFJ-934 (ATU with artificial ground) stashed 
somewhere.


No real need for it just now, but who knows?  Now 
I just need to find it!


73, Phil W7OX

On 7/16/16 10:39 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

One approach to reduce "RF in the shack" using an end-fed wire is to
resonate the "counterpoise" for the band you are using. MFJ made just such a
"tuner" (model 931 IIRC) but any tunable L-network will work. The idea is to
adjust the "tuner" for maximum current flowing into the counterpoise
(meaning the counterpoise is offering the lowest possible impedance to the
equipment it is connected to.) I have successfully used that in a 2nd story
apartment feeding an end-fed wire running outside. I know one Ham who bought
the MFJ box and found it worked FB.

For a homebrew "counterpoise tuner" you'll need an RF ammeter but a good
cheap one is an incandescent flashlight bulb in series  where the
counterpoise connects to the rig chassis. Tune for the counterpoise for
maximum brightness with the rig running at the lowest power that will light
the bulb, then short-circuit the bulb for higher power. Of course, the
adjustments will interact with the tuner settings for the end-fed wire. But
the "tuning" of the counterpoise is usually broad enough (low-Q) that noting
the settings for each band you can return to them without doing the whole
retuning thing again. (The MFJ box my buddy bought has an ammeter built in.)


My "counterpoise" was a thin white wire run around the baseboard of the
shack and down the hall - about 30 feet total. White wire + apartment white
wall = invisible counterpoise. Worked FB 40 through 10 meters.

While that will reduce the RF voltage on the rig itself, you will be sitting
in a high-level RF field from the end fed wire, which limits your maximum
power to meet radiation exposure limits, depending upon how far from you the
antenna is located and the band you are using.

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Phil Wheeler]

Ken,

Please clarify what is meant by "I had problems 
with the KXPD3 which forced me to be very 
assertive!": What problems, and assertive in what 
respect?


Really a bit academic: I never owned the KXPD3 and 
have ordered the KXPD2 for its shorter arm and 
less tendency to move the KX2 around, as you observed.


Like many here, I still wait for my KXPD2 to ship.

73, Phil W7OX

On 7/16/16 11:14 AM, Ken Talbott wrote:

This week I replaced the KXDP3 paddle on my KX2 with the KXPD2.  I like the
feel and adjustability of the KXPD2.  Since it is shorter, the rig does not
tend to move around as much.  I had problems with the KXPD3 which forced me
to be very assertive!  The KXPD2 seems (so far) to operate with a much
lighter touch.  If you like the idea of a closely integrated paddle and do
not own either, I would recommend the KXPD2.  If you own a KXPD3 and it is
functioning well, I would continue to use it.  BTW, I am still  eating my
way up the CW food chain.  Most of my operating is between 10 and 15 WPM for
ragchews with frequent excursions above 20 WPM for contests in which the
exchanges are predictable.  You might want to wait for feedback from a QRQ
operator.
GL de ken ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
W2KJ
Sent: July 16, 2016 11:50
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

Howdy Gang:

I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this
paddle?

Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition
to the KX2?

Many thanks for any info.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am
KX3, KX2


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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Tuning a Counterpoise

[Vic Rosenthal]

I am thinking that if you make the wire more than 1/4 wavelength at the lowest 
frequency, all you would need to tune it would be a variable capacitor.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 16 Jul 2016, at 20:39, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
> One approach to reduce "RF in the shack" using an end-fed wire is to
> resonate the "counterpoise" for the band you are using. MFJ made just such a
> "tuner" (model 931 IIRC) but any tunable L-network will work. The idea is to
> adjust the "tuner" for maximum current flowing into the counterpoise
> (meaning the counterpoise is offering the lowest possible impedance to the
> equipment it is connected to.) I have successfully used that in a 2nd story
> apartment feeding an end-fed wire running outside. I know one Ham who bought
> the MFJ box and found it worked FB. 
> 
> For a homebrew "counterpoise tuner" you'll need an RF ammeter but a good
> cheap one is an incandescent flashlight bulb in series  where the
> counterpoise connects to the rig chassis. Tune for the counterpoise for
> maximum brightness with the rig running at the lowest power that will light
> the bulb, then short-circuit the bulb for higher power. Of course, the
> adjustments will interact with the tuner settings for the end-fed wire. But
> the "tuning" of the counterpoise is usually broad enough (low-Q) that noting
> the settings for each band you can return to them without doing the whole
> retuning thing again. (The MFJ box my buddy bought has an ammeter built in.)
> 
> 
> My "counterpoise" was a thin white wire run around the baseboard of the
> shack and down the hall - about 30 feet total. White wire + apartment white
> wall = invisible counterpoise. Worked FB 40 through 10 meters.  
> 
> While that will reduce the RF voltage on the rig itself, you will be sitting
> in a high-level RF field from the end fed wire, which limits your maximum
> power to meet radiation exposure limits, depending upon how far from you the
> antenna is located and the band you are using. 
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Drew
> AF2Z
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 9:30 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies
> 
> I do have counterpoises: "decent" is another matter. If I had better
> shack/antenna choices I wouldn't be using an endfed wire to begin with. 
> So, the counterpoises, ferrites, ground loop isolators, equipment/cable
> arrangement are all part of the solution.
> 
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
> 
> 
> 
>> On 07/16/16 12:04, Jim Brown wrote:
>> Drew,
>> 
>> Forget your field strength meter and 1) concentrate on providing a 
>> decent counterpoise for your antenna so that return current flows on 
>> that counterpoise rather than ground wiring inside your shack; and 2) 
>> on killing Pin One Problems in the equipment in your shack. You have 
>> high field strength in your shack because the antenna ends at your 
>> shack, and because it is working!
>> 
>> Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
>>> On Sat,7/16/2016 8:26 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
>>> I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the 
>>> shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength 
>>> meter is handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, 
>>> keyboards, etc and placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best 
>>> results. I use an old Simpson 37
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Ken Talbott]

This week I replaced the KXDP3 paddle on my KX2 with the KXPD2.  I like the
feel and adjustability of the KXPD2.  Since it is shorter, the rig does not
tend to move around as much.  I had problems with the KXPD3 which forced me
to be very assertive!  The KXPD2 seems (so far) to operate with a much
lighter touch.  If you like the idea of a closely integrated paddle and do
not own either, I would recommend the KXPD2.  If you own a KXPD3 and it is
functioning well, I would continue to use it.  BTW, I am still  eating my
way up the CW food chain.  Most of my operating is between 10 and 15 WPM for
ragchews with frequent excursions above 20 WPM for contests in which the
exchanges are predictable.  You might want to wait for feedback from a QRQ
operator.
GL de ken ke4rg

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
W2KJ
Sent: July 16, 2016 11:50
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

Howdy Gang:

I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this
paddle?

Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition
to the KX2?

Many thanks for any info.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am
KX3, KX2
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

[Dick Dievendorff]

K3 MCU revision 4.93 fixed this, written 10/16/2014.  It's described in the
firmware release notes.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark
E. Musick
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 10:57
To: 'Nr4c' ; 'Jerry' 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

This is no longer true. That problem has been fixed.
I don't know what firmware version it was that eliminated the need to have
power to the KAT500.
Even when the problem existed, it only required that there be 12 Volts at
the KAT500 power connector. It did not require the KAT500 to be powered on.
I solved this by having the K3 and KAT 500 powered from the same power
supply. I could power on the K3 before the KAT500 with no problems.
With the fix the problem is moot.
On Field Day we operated the K3 and KAT500 from separate power supplies and
turning on the K3 before turning on the KAT500 was not a problem.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 11:11 PM
To: Jerry 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

No. And, the KAT should be running when you turn on the K3(S). Mine stays on
all the time. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 13, 2016, at 5:10 PM, Jerry  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to be able to power  on and off the KAT500 through the K3?
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Jerry, W1IE
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

[Mark E. Musick]

This is no longer true. That problem has been fixed.
I don't know what firmware version it was that eliminated the need to have
power to the KAT500.
Even when the problem existed, it only required that there be 12 Volts at
the KAT500 power connector. It did not require the KAT500 to be powered on.
I solved this by having the K3 and KAT 500 powered from the same power
supply. I could power on the K3 before the KAT500 with no problems.
With the fix the problem is moot.
On Field Day we operated the K3 and KAT500 from separate power supplies and
turning on the K3 before turning on the KAT500 was not a problem.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 11:11 PM
To: Jerry 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question

No. And, the KAT should be running when you turn on the K3(S). Mine stays on
all the time. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 13, 2016, at 5:10 PM, Jerry  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to be able to power  on and off the KAT500 through the K3?
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Jerry, W1IE
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] O.T. Tuning a Counterpoise

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

One approach to reduce "RF in the shack" using an end-fed wire is to
resonate the "counterpoise" for the band you are using. MFJ made just such a
"tuner" (model 931 IIRC) but any tunable L-network will work. The idea is to
adjust the "tuner" for maximum current flowing into the counterpoise
(meaning the counterpoise is offering the lowest possible impedance to the
equipment it is connected to.) I have successfully used that in a 2nd story
apartment feeding an end-fed wire running outside. I know one Ham who bought
the MFJ box and found it worked FB. 

For a homebrew "counterpoise tuner" you'll need an RF ammeter but a good
cheap one is an incandescent flashlight bulb in series  where the
counterpoise connects to the rig chassis. Tune for the counterpoise for
maximum brightness with the rig running at the lowest power that will light
the bulb, then short-circuit the bulb for higher power. Of course, the
adjustments will interact with the tuner settings for the end-fed wire. But
the "tuning" of the counterpoise is usually broad enough (low-Q) that noting
the settings for each band you can return to them without doing the whole
retuning thing again. (The MFJ box my buddy bought has an ammeter built in.)


My "counterpoise" was a thin white wire run around the baseboard of the
shack and down the hall - about 30 feet total. White wire + apartment white
wall = invisible counterpoise. Worked FB 40 through 10 meters.  

While that will reduce the RF voltage on the rig itself, you will be sitting
in a high-level RF field from the end fed wire, which limits your maximum
power to meet radiation exposure limits, depending upon how far from you the
antenna is located and the band you are using. 

73, Ron AC7AC

 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Drew
AF2Z
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 9:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

I do have counterpoises: "decent" is another matter. If I had better
shack/antenna choices I wouldn't be using an endfed wire to begin with. 
So, the counterpoises, ferrites, ground loop isolators, equipment/cable
arrangement are all part of the solution.

73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/16/16 12:04, Jim Brown wrote:
> Drew,
>
> Forget your field strength meter and 1) concentrate on providing a 
> decent counterpoise for your antenna so that return current flows on 
> that counterpoise rather than ground wiring inside your shack; and 2) 
> on killing Pin One Problems in the equipment in your shack. You have 
> high field strength in your shack because the antenna ends at your 
> shack, and because it is working!
>
> Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On Sat,7/16/2016 8:26 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
>> I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the 
>> shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength 
>> meter is handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, 
>> keyboards, etc and placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best 
>> results. I use an old Simpson 37
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] A955 = λ

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Instead of typing out "lambda", just hold down the "ALT" key and type 955
= λ

Same for :
Alt 171 = ½
Alt 172 = ¼
Alt 0216 = Ø
Alt 227 = π
Alt 234 = Ω

There's lots more where those came from...

73, Charlie k3ICH

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hank
Garretson
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 12:38 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

Counterpoises are good.

Also very helpful is to adjust total length of flattop and feedline to be
an odd multiple of Lambda/4 for the bands of interest. This keeps max RF
voltage peaks out of the shack. Not always convenient to do if you want
multiple bands.

73,

Hank, W6SX


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[Elecraft] Got the gear, need the garb!

[Jim Miller]

Where do I order Elecraft shirts and hats?

Can't find any on their website. 

73

Jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Hank Garretson]

Counterpoises are good.

Also very helpful is to adjust total length of flattop and feedline to be
an odd multiple of Lambda/4 for the bands of interest. This keeps max RF
voltage peaks out of the shack. Not always convenient to do if you want
multiple bands.

73,

Hank, W6SX


On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 9:04 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

>
> Forget your field strength meter and 1) concentrate on providing a decent
> counterpoise for your antenna so that return current flows on that
> counterpoise rather than ground wiring inside your shack; and 2) on killing
> Pin One Problems in the equipment in your shack. You have high field
> strength in your shack because the antenna ends at your shack, and because
> it is working!
>
> Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On Sat,7/16/2016 8:26 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
>
>> I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the
>> shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength meter is
>> handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, keyboards, etc and
>> placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best results. I use an old Simpson
>> 37
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Drew AF2Z]

I do have counterpoises: "decent" is another matter. If I had better 
shack/antenna choices I wouldn't be using an endfed wire to begin with. 
So, the counterpoises, ferrites, ground loop isolators, equipment/cable 
arrangement are all part of the solution.


73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/16/16 12:04, Jim Brown wrote:

Drew,

Forget your field strength meter and 1) concentrate on providing a
decent counterpoise for your antenna so that return current flows on
that counterpoise rather than ground wiring inside your shack; and 2) on
killing Pin One Problems in the equipment in your shack. You have high
field strength in your shack because the antenna ends at your shack, and
because it is working!

Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

On Sat,7/16/2016 8:26 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:

I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the
shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength meter
is handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, keyboards,
etc and placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best results. I use
an old Simpson 37





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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Jim Brown]

Drew,

Forget your field strength meter and 1) concentrate on providing a 
decent counterpoise for your antenna so that return current flows on 
that counterpoise rather than ground wiring inside your shack; and 2) on 
killing Pin One Problems in the equipment in your shack. You have high 
field strength in your shack because the antenna ends at your shack, and 
because it is working!


Study k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

On Sat,7/16/2016 8:26 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the 
shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength meter 
is handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, keyboards, 
etc and placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best results. I use 
an old Simpson 37



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[Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Joe W2KJ]

Howdy Gang:

I wonder what the users of the new KXPD2 paddle for the KX2 think of this 
paddle?

Touch, feel, sensitivity, adjustability, etc...is it a worthwhile addition to 
the KX2?

Many thanks for any info.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am
KX3, KX2
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer RJ12 cable)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Clay. That's a typo. See appendix B of the manual. 

Tnx for the head's up. That's an old reference that should be been removed. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 8:35 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPOD] Re: Now that the K-Pod is shipping, (longer
RJ12 cable)

RR...  I just cracked the K-pod manual and see that the cable is an
RJ-25 cable...  different pinouts from the RJ-12.  (both 6P6C).

I need the signals crossed with the pin numbers...  or colors...

No schematics for the K3s...  I guess I'll try the K3 manual to see if it is
at all illuminating...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/15/2016 9:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Don is correct but, actually, the connector is a 6PC6 male. The "RJ" 
> numbers refer to the wiring AND connector. So it is NOT an RJ12 cable 
> since only 5 conductors are used.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
> ---

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Drew AF2Z]

I have an endfed wire antenna for the low bands so there is RF in the 
shack which needs to be managed. In such a case a field strength meter 
is handy in figuring out how to arrange equipment, cables, keyboards, 
etc and placing ferrite toroids and snap-ons for best results. I use an 
old Simpson 374 microameter with a germanium diode across the terminals 
(cathode to plus terminal); it makes a good RF sniffer...


73,
Drew
AF2Z


On 07/16/16 08:28, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

Hi Howard and thanks for your explanations and patience. I need to do some
more testing a little later on with the KX3 on the RS-50. If I remember
right, I could hear the hum and hiss from the RS-50 only when the antenna
was attached. I think that goes along with what you are saying and I just
need to wrap my mind around that. I am prepared to deal with RF issues
while transmitting but not so prepared to think the problem could show up
during receive also.

So far I've added the NI4L HF Choke/Line Isolator just under the BALUN at
the feedpoint and another just at the rig. I've also added a few snap-ons
to the DC cord between the RS-50 and the radio at the RS-50 side. I want to
add more as soon as I can find the rest of them or possibly replace them
with the 2.4" ferrites at your site.

After doing the above I've noticed my tuning points have shifted a bit. I
need to get the analyzer on it to see by how much. I also *maybe* noticed a
reduction in noise on the Flex but to tell you the truth, I never really
noticed it on the Flex, only the KX3 made it obvious being able to switch
from battery to external power supply.

I need to do a little more testing if I can find the time this weekend. I
see the 2.4" ferrite core on your website and will probably place an order
for a couple/few. Does something like this go on each end of a line or do I
pick an end?

Thanks again,
Kevin






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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Drew AF2Z]

Won't hurt to use a twisted pair cable between the PS and the rig. If 
you have the standard DC power cable zip cord just unplug it, twist it 
up real good, then plug it back in.


73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 07/16/16 00:12, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

You can tell if the noise floor increase is due to increased gain by seeing if 
signals increase in strength along with the noise.

As Don said, OCFs are prone to common mode issues. Perhaps the power supply is 
acting as a ground return for the 'common mode antenna'? A common mode choke on 
the power leads as you suggest might be worth a try.

Regarding clip-ons, remember that at HF you need multiple turns to have a 
noticeable affect. Also make sure they are the correct types of ferrite. The 
K9YC paper deals with that.

Vic 4X6GP





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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 - Programming Commands

[Dick Dievendorff]

The most recent KXPA100 Programmer's reference is 1.18.  

No new commands have been recently added.  What was added in 1.35 was the
ability to HOLD the MODE button to toggle PA operate/standby (PA bypass).

The KXPA Utility uses ^OP to change PA bypass. This is described on page 19
of the KXPA Programming Reference.  ^OP is not at all new.

73 de Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Neil
Zampella
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2016 06:31
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPA100 - Programming Commands

Hi all,

Having just sprung for a KXPA100 to pair with my KX3, a PX3 and W2 are in my
future, I've been playing around with setting commands up for it 
on DXLab Commander.I've setup the command to switch antennas, by 
adapting some command sequences created for the K2 & K3 and posted to 
the DXLab Yahoo group.There are some good resources there for 
Elecraft & DXLab integration.

However, the KXPA100 Programmer's Reference available on the website is 
current to firmware revision 1.18, and the latest is 1.35.   1.35 added 
a function to disable the amplifier, but allow the KX3 to use the 
amplifier's ATU.This functionality is controlled by the KXPA100 
utility, so there must be a command sequence that will perform this
function.

Has this command sequence been released to the public?

Thanks,

Neil Zampella
KN3ILZ
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 - Programming Commands

[Neil Zampella]

Hi all,

Having just sprung for a KXPA100 to pair with my KX3, a PX3 and W2 are 
in my future, I've been playing around with setting commands up for it 
on DXLab Commander.I've setup the command to switch antennas, by 
adapting some command sequences created for the K2 & K3 and posted to 
the DXLab Yahoo group.There are some good resources there for 
Elecraft & DXLab integration.


However, the KXPA100 Programmer's Reference available on the website is 
current to firmware revision 1.18, and the latest is 1.35.   1.35 added 
a function to disable the amplifier, but allow the KX3 to use the 
amplifier's ATU.This functionality is controlled by the KXPA100 
utility, so there must be a command sequence that will perform this 
function.


Has this command sequence been released to the public?

Thanks,

Neil Zampella
KN3ILZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Kevin - K4VD]

Hi Howard and thanks for your explanations and patience. I need to do some
more testing a little later on with the KX3 on the RS-50. If I remember
right, I could hear the hum and hiss from the RS-50 only when the antenna
was attached. I think that goes along with what you are saying and I just
need to wrap my mind around that. I am prepared to deal with RF issues
while transmitting but not so prepared to think the problem could show up
during receive also.

So far I've added the NI4L HF Choke/Line Isolator just under the BALUN at
the feedpoint and another just at the rig. I've also added a few snap-ons
to the DC cord between the RS-50 and the radio at the RS-50 side. I want to
add more as soon as I can find the rest of them or possibly replace them
with the 2.4" ferrites at your site.

After doing the above I've noticed my tuning points have shifted a bit. I
need to get the analyzer on it to see by how much. I also *maybe* noticed a
reduction in noise on the Flex but to tell you the truth, I never really
noticed it on the Flex, only the KX3 made it obvious being able to switch
from battery to external power supply.

I need to do a little more testing if I can find the time this weekend. I
see the 2.4" ferrite core on your website and will probably place an order
for a couple/few. Does something like this go on each end of a line or do I
pick an end?

Thanks again,
Kevin


On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 7:19 AM, Howard Hoyt  wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that
>>> only be an issue during transmit?
>>>
>>
> Except for very special cases, antenna systems display reciprocity, and
> show very similar or identical current distributions at the frequency of
> interest in transmit and receive, although the magnitudes are obviously
> very different.  In a well-balanced antenna system the currents in the
> feedline are equal and of opposite phase, and in the case of a coax feedine
> the resulting fields are contained within the coax, i.e. there will be no
> current flowing on the outside of the coax shield.  Antenna system
> imbalances at the feedpoint will cause the imbalance current to flow on the
> outside of the coax shield and radiate in transmit and affect the antenna
> pattern.  In receive the exact same imbalance will exist and affect the
> pattern identically.
>
> In both transmit and receive, these common-mode currents will be conducted
> to the chassis of the rig and anything attached to it. They also
> capacitively couple through the power supply, you, and anything else
> touching or near the rig.  When these currents couple through the power
> supply to the AC line they effectively make the AC power system part of the
> antenna and couple any noise present in the AC mains to the receiver.  As
> the antenna currents pass through the supply they can also be modulated by
> the input-output impedance of the supply which varies at the rate of
> rectification, so the supply can add its own noise to these currents.
> Interestingly enough many people report stronger reception of the desired
> signals along with the increased noise, certainly proving the common-mode
> currents become part of the antenna system.  Breaking this current path
> with a common-mode choke will greatly reduce or effectively eliminate this
> current and noise.  For HF chokes we agree with Jim Brown's recommendations
> and we supply mix 31 cores for the purpose.  Proper grounding at the rig
> can also reduce the AC mains coupling.
>
> After selling thousands of these Kx33 supplies we have learned a lot about
> the nature of most "power supply" RFI.  We have found very few instances
> where any supply was causing RFI by transverse conduction (RF riding on the
> DC output) or radiation (proximity of the supply to the receive antenna).
> In the almost all cases, antenna system imbalances and the resulting
> common-mode currents were inducing RFI in the manner described above.  I'd
> be glad to send you a ferrite core to try, contact me off-line.
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Howard Hoyt  - WA4PSC
> www,proaudioeng.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Howard Hoyt]

Hi Kevin,


As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that
only be an issue during transmit?


Except for very special cases, antenna systems display reciprocity, and 
show very similar or identical current distributions at the frequency of 
interest in transmit and receive, although the magnitudes are obviously 
very different.  In a well-balanced antenna system the currents in the 
feedline are equal and of opposite phase, and in the case of a coax 
feedine the resulting fields are contained within the coax, i.e. there 
will be no current flowing on the outside of the coax shield.  Antenna 
system imbalances at the feedpoint will cause the imbalance current to 
flow on the outside of the coax shield and radiate in transmit and 
affect the antenna pattern.  In receive the exact same imbalance will 
exist and affect the pattern identically.


In both transmit and receive, these common-mode currents will be 
conducted to the chassis of the rig and anything attached to it. They 
also capacitively couple through the power supply, you, and anything 
else touching or near the rig.  When these currents couple through the 
power supply to the AC line they effectively make the AC power system 
part of the antenna and couple any noise present in the AC mains to the 
receiver.  As the antenna currents pass through the supply they can also 
be modulated by the input-output impedance of the supply which varies at 
the rate of rectification, so the supply can add its own noise to these 
currents.  Interestingly enough many people report stronger reception of 
the desired signals along with the increased noise, certainly proving 
the common-mode currents become part of the antenna system.  Breaking 
this current path with a common-mode choke will greatly reduce or 
effectively eliminate this current and noise.  For HF chokes we agree 
with Jim Brown's recommendations and we supply mix 31 cores for the 
purpose.  Proper grounding at the rig can also reduce the AC mains coupling.


After selling thousands of these Kx33 supplies we have learned a lot 
about the nature of most "power supply" RFI.  We have found very few 
instances where any supply was causing RFI by transverse conduction (RF 
riding on the DC output) or radiation (proximity of the supply to the 
receive antenna).  In the almost all cases, antenna system imbalances 
and the resulting common-mode currents were inducing RFI in the manner 
described above.  I'd be glad to send you a ferrite core to try, contact 
me off-line.


I hope this helps,

Howard Hoyt  - WA4PSC
www,proaudioeng.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[MaverickNH]

No densely packed Surface Mount components to solder on two sides of the PCB?
Heck, hardly worth the effort. ;-)

Actually, I'm a bit of a newbie on kits, and didn't want to muck up my new
K3S system. That, and the factory burn-in and re-alignment seemed like a
real plus. I'll have fun enough learning the ins/outs from the manual and
WE7X's book as I work my way along.

My wife could tell you that when she calls the repair guy to fix something
around the house, they give her two phone estimate prices - the higher one
is if I've already tried to fix it!



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