Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Linearity

2018-06-15 Thread K9MA
I'll have to make some more measurements, but Paul's seem to have much less 
gain compression than mine. (0.6 vs 1.4 dB from 1 kW to 1.5 kW) That's also 
closer to the specs for a pair of BLF88XR's. 

73,
Scott K9MA 

--

Scott Ellington

 --- via iPad

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 11:24 PM, Paul Baldock  wrote:
> 
> I received my KPA-1500 yesterday (#244) and did some linearity tests today
> 
> 14.2MHz, Dummy Load, ATU Bypassed. Using KPA-1500 internal Power Meter. 
> Continuous carrier.
> 
> 10W drive, Gain = 15.6dB 180W
> 15W drive, Gain = 15.8dB
> 20W drive, Gain = 15.9dB
> 25W drive, Gain = 16.0dB 1.0KW
> 30W drive, Gain = 15.9dB
> 35W drive, Gain = 15.7dB
> 40W drive, Gain = 15.6dB
> 43W drive, Gain = 15.4dB 1.5KW
> 45W drive, Gain = 15.4dB 1.57KW
> 
> Based on this it look like about .6dB compression at 1.5KW. I think that's 
> pretty good for an SS Amp.
> 
> I also measured the gain on all the bands at 1.5KW out. Drive varied from 31W 
> on 80M to 47W on 15M. or 16.8dB to 15.0dB. That amount of variation is rather 
> disappointing.
> 
> I also noted that the internal power meter is pretty inaccurate at low 
> levels. For Example at 50W on 20M it reads 43W. Its pretty close above 300W 
> and right on at 1.5KW where its calibrated.
> 
> I would be interested to see any data that others have collected.
> 
> - Paul  KW7Y
> 
> 
> At 02:26 PM 6/14/2018, K9MA wrote:
>> The gain compression I measured, between 1000 and 1500 W on 40 meters, was 
>> 1.4 dB. I used the K3 and KPA1500 power meters.  Factory calibration of the 
>> KPA1500. 
>> 
>> Scott K9MA 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Scott Ellington
>> 
>>  --- via iPad
>> 
>> > On Jun 14, 2018, at 2:51 PM, Paul Baldock  wrote:
>> > 
>> > What you report of compression near the maximum power is certainly true of 
>> > the amplifiers like the SPE-1.5K that use a single device, but I would 
>> > have thought this would not be true of the KPA1500 that uses 2 devices. 
>> > This is the reason I returned my SPE and ordered the KPA. Hopefully the 
>> > compression is less than 1dB.
>> > 
>> > Has anybody else measured it?
>> > 
>> > - Paul  - KW7Y
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > At 02:21 PM 6/9/2018, you wrote:
>> >> I recently ran a two-tone test and measured CW power gain. (SN1078)Â  It 
>> >> doesn't look good.  The two-tone waveform shows distinct "flat-topping", 
>> >> and the power gain drops 25 percent from 1000 to 1500 Watts.  My old 
>> >> 3-500Z amplifier is much better.  Has anyone measured IMD or linearity, 
>> >> or seen any test results? While I'm primarily a CW operator, I'd be very 
>> >> reluctant to use the amplifier on SSB. 73, Scott K9MA -- Scott  K9MA 
>> >> k...@sdellington.us 
>> >> __ Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Linearity

2018-06-15 Thread Paul Baldock

I received my KPA-1500 yesterday (#244) and did some linearity tests today

14.2MHz, Dummy Load, ATU Bypassed. Using KPA-1500 
internal Power Meter. Continuous carrier.


10W drive, Gain = 15.6dB 180W
15W drive, Gain = 15.8dB
20W drive, Gain = 15.9dB
25W drive, Gain = 16.0dB 1.0KW
30W drive, Gain = 15.9dB
35W drive, Gain = 15.7dB
40W drive, Gain = 15.6dB
43W drive, Gain = 15.4dB 1.5KW
45W drive, Gain = 15.4dB 1.57KW

Based on this it look like about .6dB compression 
at 1.5KW. I think that's pretty good for an SS Amp.


I also measured the gain on all the bands at 
1.5KW out. Drive varied from 31W on 80M to 47W on 
15M. or 16.8dB to 15.0dB. That amount of variation is rather disappointing.


I also noted that the internal power meter is 
pretty inaccurate at low levels. For Example at 
50W on 20M it reads 43W. Its pretty close above 
300W and right on at 1.5KW where its calibrated.


I would be interested to see any data that others have collected.

- Paul  KW7Y


At 02:26 PM 6/14/2018, K9MA wrote:
The gain compression I measured, between 1000 
and 1500 W on 40 meters, was 1.4 dB. I used the 
K3 and KPA1500 power meters.  Factory calibration of the KPA1500.


Scott K9MA

--

Scott Ellington

 --- via iPad

> On Jun 14, 2018, at 2:51 PM, Paul Baldock  wrote:
>
> What you report of compression near the 
maximum power is certainly true of the 
amplifiers like the SPE-1.5K that use a single 
device, but I would have thought this would not 
be true of the KPA1500 that uses 2 devices. 
This is the reason I returned my SPE and 
ordered the KPA. Hopefully the compression is less than 1dB.

>
> Has anybody else measured it?
>
> - Paul  - KW7Y
>
>
>
> At 02:21 PM 6/9/2018, you wrote:
>> I recently ran a two-tone test and measured 
CW power gain. (SN1078)Â  It doesn't look 
good.  The two-tone waveform shows distinct 
"flat-topping", and the power gain drops 25 
percent from 1000 to 1500 Watts.  My old 
3-500Z amplifier is much better.  Has anyone 
measured IMD or linearity, or seen any test 
results? While I'm primarily a CW operator, I'd 
be very reluctant to use the amplifier on SSB. 
73, Scott K9MA -- Scott  K9MA 
k...@sdellington.us 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread Nr4c
Don’t try to remove the leads from the sticky tape, just use your flush cutters 
and snip the leads right at the edge of the tape.  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 15, 2018, at 8:38 PM,   wrote:
> 
> My late Uncle taught that to me.
> 
> 73
> Tim, KQ8M
> k...@kq8m.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 20:26
> Cc: Elecraft
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...
> 
>> From the distant past ...
> 
> Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...
> 
> 73!
> 
> K0PP
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:
>> 
>> OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
>> design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
>> use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
>> hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
>> understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
>> from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)
>> 
>> Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
>> after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
>> get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>> Sparks NV DM09dn
>> Washoe County
>> 
>>> On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
>>> Hi Fred,
>>> It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts
>> are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
>> resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
>>> The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new
>> tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
>> company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject
> it
>> if it wasn't in the tolerance window.
>>> I hope that all makes sense...
>>> Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and
>> rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 received and installed

2018-06-15 Thread Richard Thorne
FB John,

Mine arrived today.  

Unfortunately I’m in Colorado getting ready to activate a SOTA in the morning 
with a kx2, so I won’t get to install the kpa-1500 until Sunday.  

Wait this is not unfortunate, getting outside with a kx2 is a good thing.

WG0AT and I will be activating W0C/SP-081.

 Rich -N5ZC

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 6:46 PM,  
>  wrote:
> 
> SN 246, ordered late February, up and running. Less than one hour from
> sealed box to full operation, including changing the mains plug. 
> 
> 73 John N5CQ
> 
> 
> ..Would be interesting to hear who has received their amp in the
> last week and when the order was placed.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread Josh Fiden
Off topic & very off color. Not appropriate for this reflector, please. 

73
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 5:38 PM
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 20:26
> Cc: Elecraft
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...
> 
> From the distant past ...
> 
> Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...
> 
> 73!
> 
> K0PP
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread Harlan Sherriff via Elecraft
Ken
For silver or gold

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 8:38 PM,   wrote:
> 
> My late Uncle taught that to me.
> 
> 73
> Tim, KQ8M
> k...@kq8m.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 20:26
> Cc: Elecraft
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...
> 
> From the distant past ...
> 
> Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...
> 
> 73!
> 
> K0PP
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:
>> 
>> OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
>> design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
>> use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
>> hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
>> understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
>> from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)
>> 
>> Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
>> after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
>> get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>> Sparks NV DM09dn
>> Washoe County
>> 
>>> On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
>>> Hi Fred,
>>> It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts
>> are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
>> resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
>>> The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new
>> tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
>> company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject
> it
>> if it wasn't in the tolerance window.
>>> I hope that all makes sense...
>>> Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and
>> rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>> 
>> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread Richard S. Leary
Thanks Ken, Was told that one in radio school, Keesler AFB, summer 1955. You
never forget it do you.

73!
Rick, W7LKG

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 17:26
Cc: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

>From the distant past ...

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...

73!

K0PP



On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:

> OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for 
> design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites 
> to use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is 
> still hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound 
> me.  I understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove 
> the parts from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really 
> sticky. [:-)
>
> Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, 
> even after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," 
> I still get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink
too."
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
> > Hi Fred,
> > It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial 
> > parts
> are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k 
> resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
> > The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new
> tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my 
> company used to have would also measure the value of the part and 
> reject it if it wasn't in the tolerance window.
> > I hope that all makes sense...
> > Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines 
> > and
> rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread EricJ

...for gold, silver or nothing.

Just adding the 5, 10 and 20% tolerance colors.

Eric KE6US


On 6/15/2018 5:25 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

>From the distant past ...

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...

73!

K0PP



On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:


OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)

Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:

Hi Fred,
It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts

are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.

The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new

tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject it
if it wasn't in the tolerance window.

I hope that all makes sense...
Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and

rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.



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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 received and installed

2018-06-15 Thread jlangdon1
SN 246, ordered late February, up and running. Less than one hour from
sealed box to full operation, including changing the mains plug. 

73 John N5CQ


..Would be interesting to hear who has received their amp in the
last week and when the order was placed.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread kq8m
My late Uncle taught that to me.

73
Tim, KQ8M
k...@kq8m.com

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 20:26
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

>From the distant past ...

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...

73!

K0PP



On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:

> OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
> design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
> use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
> hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
> understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
> from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)
>
> Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
> after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
> get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
> > Hi Fred,
> > It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts
> are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
> resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
> > The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new
> tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
> company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject
it
> if it wasn't in the tolerance window.
> > I hope that all makes sense...
> > Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and
> rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>
>
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[Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

2018-06-15 Thread Ken G Kopp
>From the distant past ...

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...

73!

K0PP



On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:

> OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
> design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
> use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
> hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
> understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
> from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)
>
> Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
> after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
> get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
> > Hi Fred,
> > It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts
> are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
> resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
> > The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new
> tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
> company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject it
> if it wasn't in the tolerance window.
> > I hope that all makes sense...
> > Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and
> rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread GaryK9GS

Well, if you're ever in SE Wisconsin I'd be happy to give you a tour.

73,
Gary K9GS
 Original message From: Fred Jensen  Date: 
6/15/18  7:12 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: 
[Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks 
OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for 
design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to 
use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still 
hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I 
understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts 
from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)

Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even 
after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still 
get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:
> Hi Fred,
> It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts are 
> loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k resistors, 
> a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
> The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new tape 
> with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my company used 
> to have would also measure the value of the part and reject it if it wasn't 
> in the tolerance window.
> I hope that all makes sense...
> Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and rarely 
> use the axial through hole inserter these days.
>

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[Elecraft] K3 local and K3/0 mini remote

2018-06-15 Thread William Liporace

Hi Folks,
I thought I had this figured out.

I have the K3 with the KIO3B with the P3. I have the factory cable as 
well. I want to be able to operate in the shack and with the K3/0 mini 
remotely. I know I can do it by swapping one cable. How can I do it with 
out swapping cables.


I have the Control RCC with the Squid cable to the K3/0 mini.
The Radio RCC is connected to the K3 via the TXVR port on the P3 when 
remote.


I have a diagram that I used and thought worked. Something changed and 
no idea what. If you can help me out, I would appreciate it.


TNX Will WC2L

--
William Liporace WC2L
http://www.wc2l.com or http://dxc.wc2l.com
AR-Cluster Node  telnet dxc.wc2l.com or 144.93 MHz
w...@wc2l.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Fred Jensen
OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for 
design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to 
use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still 
hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I 
understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts 
from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)


Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even 
after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still 
get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:

Hi Fred,
It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts are 
loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k resistors, a 
separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new tape with 
the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my company used to have 
would also measure the value of the part and reject it if it wasn't in the 
tolerance window.
I hope that all makes sense...
Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and rarely 
use the axial through hole inserter these days.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread GaryK9GS
Hi Fred,
It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts are 
loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k resistors, a 
separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.
The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new tape with 
the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my company used to have 
would also measure the value of the part and reject it if it wasn't in the 
tolerance window.
I hope that all makes sense...
Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and rarely 
use the axial through hole inserter these days.


73,
Gary K9GS
 Original message From: Fred Jensen  Date: 
6/15/18  6:33 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: 
[Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks 
Its been 15 years or so [K2 S/N 4398] but my resistors were taped in the 
order of insertion.  If yours are, don't remove them before needed.  I 
measured each of mine as I was about to insert it, and all were 
correct.  I can see the colors, I just can't name them so this was a 
huge gift from Elecraft. Benton Harbor just sent a bag, but of course 
auto-insertion equipment hadn't been invented then either. [:-)  I've 
always wondered how the machine that tapes them works.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:03 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
> Scott:
> Get some magnification aid: binocular microscope, magnifying lamp, etc.  Some 
> of those parts are pretty small and solder joints need to be inspected.  Good 
> lighting is a must as well as an anti static mat.
>
> Brian
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Jun 15, 2018, at 2:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I took about 10 years to build it. I started, then moved the ham shack to 
>> the new addition. I recorded every mod, change and alternate part over the 
>> 10 years and essentially wrote a new updated assembly manual. Bought all the 
>> add on options. Bought new firm ware that I never got to use and bought new 
>> again at the finish. Turned it on and guess what, no issues. Somehow I like 
>> the way it sounds, maybe better than the K3...
>>
>> Chuck
>> KE9UW
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
>>
>>> On Jun 15, 2018, at 11:24 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:
>>>
>>> I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a good 
>>> few days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help you 
>>> along:
>>>
>>> It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything 
>>> separate. Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for test 
>>> purposes it's still 3 kits.
>>>
>>> It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you 
>>> wont!) it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.
>>>
>>> The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back 
>>> read it again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked over 
>>> almost 8000 times, it's right.
>>>
>>> I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a 
>>> set of small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers in. 
>>> I had 12 I think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter and a 
>>> couple of inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the contents 
>>> helped keep from them scattering from a careless movement or other accident.
>>>
>>> Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little brown 
>>> envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the resistors 
>>> on their tapes, they are in fitting order.
>>>
>>> Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
>>> worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
>>> soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
>>> necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.
>>>
>>> Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.
>>>
>>> Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun you 
>>> have with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do your kit 
>>> building :)
>>>
>>> 73
>>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>>
>>>
>>>
 On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
 I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
 complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking for 
 tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest problem as I 
 see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to make the build go 
 smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all suggestions are welcome.

 Thanks in advance.

 Scott
 AD5HS
 __
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Fred Jensen
Its been 15 years or so [K2 S/N 4398] but my resistors were taped in the 
order of insertion.  If yours are, don't remove them before needed.  I 
measured each of mine as I was about to insert it, and all were 
correct.  I can see the colors, I just can't name them so this was a 
huge gift from Elecraft. Benton Harbor just sent a bag, but of course 
auto-insertion equipment hadn't been invented then either. [:-)  I've 
always wondered how the machine that tapes them works.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:03 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

Scott:
Get some magnification aid: binocular microscope, magnifying lamp, etc.  Some 
of those parts are pretty small and solder joints need to be inspected.  Good 
lighting is a must as well as an anti static mat.

Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad


On Jun 15, 2018, at 2:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr  wrote:

I took about 10 years to build it. I started, then moved the ham shack to the 
new addition. I recorded every mod, change and alternate part over the 10 years 
and essentially wrote a new updated assembly manual. Bought all the add on 
options. Bought new firm ware that I never got to use and bought new again at 
the finish. Turned it on and guess what, no issues. Somehow I like the way it 
sounds, maybe better than the K3...

Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On Jun 15, 2018, at 11:24 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:

I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a good few 
days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help you along:

It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything separate. 
Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for test purposes it's 
still 3 kits.

It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you wont!) 
it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.

The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back read it 
again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked over almost 8000 
times, it's right.

I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a set of 
small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers in. I had 12 I 
think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter and a couple of 
inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the contents helped keep from 
them scattering from a careless movement or other accident.

Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little brown 
envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the resistors on 
their tapes, they are in fitting order.

Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.

Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.

Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun you have 
with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do your kit building 
:)

73
Martin, HS0ZED




On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is complete. 
 A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking for tips and 
tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest problem as I see it, is 
how to organize all the caps and resistors to make the build go smooth and 
relatively quick.  At any rate, all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Scott
AD5HS
__

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Bill Frantz
As Don says, different people have different ways of organizing 
the hardware. I use ice cube trays. With them, I can put a 
finger in and pull a 4-40 split lock washer out with a 
fingernail. YMMV!


73 Bill AE6JV

On 6/15/18 at 8:03 AM, donw...@embarqmail.com (Don Wilhelm) wrote:

I personally do not like muffin tins or plastic boxes for the 
hardware because I cannot get my fingers in to grasp them 
easily, but some folks seem to like to use them.


--
Bill Frantz| There are now so many exceptions to the
408-356-8506   | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by
www.pwpconsult.com | accident.  -  William Hugh Murray

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Brian Denley
Scott:
Get some magnification aid: binocular microscope, magnifying lamp, etc.  Some 
of those parts are pretty small and solder joints need to be inspected.  Good 
lighting is a must as well as an anti static mat.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 2:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> I took about 10 years to build it. I started, then moved the ham shack to the 
> new addition. I recorded every mod, change and alternate part over the 10 
> years and essentially wrote a new updated assembly manual. Bought all the add 
> on options. Bought new firm ware that I never got to use and bought new again 
> at the finish. Turned it on and guess what, no issues. Somehow I like the way 
> it sounds, maybe better than the K3...
> 
> Chuck
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Jun 15, 2018, at 11:24 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:
>> 
>> I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a good 
>> few days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help you along:
>> 
>> It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything separate. 
>> Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for test purposes 
>> it's still 3 kits.
>> 
>> It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you 
>> wont!) it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.
>> 
>> The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back read 
>> it again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked over almost 
>> 8000 times, it's right.
>> 
>> I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a set 
>> of small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers in. I had 
>> 12 I think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter and a couple 
>> of inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the contents helped keep 
>> from them scattering from a careless movement or other accident.
>> 
>> Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little brown 
>> envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the resistors 
>> on their tapes, they are in fitting order.
>> 
>> Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
>> worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
>> soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
>> necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.
>> 
>> Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.
>> 
>> Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun you 
>> have with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do your kit 
>> building :)
>> 
>> 73
>> Martin, HS0ZED
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
>>> I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
>>> complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking for 
>>> tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest problem as I 
>>> see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to make the build go 
>>> smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all suggestions are welcome.
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> 
>>> Scott
>>> AD5HS
>>> __

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[Elecraft] CORRECTION - FS: Bare bones K3/100

2018-06-15 Thread Eric Rosenberg
K3/100-(factory built) 

KAT3 internal antenna tuner 

KIO3 interface

KXV3A -  RX Ant., Pre-amp, IF Out and Xverter Interface 

*NO *ADDITIONAL* ROOFING FILTERS (has the 2.7 stock filter)

*Original synthesizer*

Manuals, box, et al.

 

$1500 + shipping from 20015 (Washington, DC) 

 

73,

Eric W3DQ 

 

 

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[Elecraft] FS: Bare bones K3/100

2018-06-15 Thread Eric Rosenberg
K3/100-(factory built) 

KAT3 internal antenna tuner 

KIO3 interface

KXV3A -  RX Ant., Pre-amp, IF Out and Xverter Interface 

NO ROOFING FILTERS

Manuals, box, et al.

 

$1500 + shipping from 20015 (Washington, DC) 

 

 

73,

Eric W3DQ 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I took about 10 years to build it. I started, then moved the ham shack to the 
new addition. I recorded every mod, change and alternate part over the 10 years 
and essentially wrote a new updated assembly manual. Bought all the add on 
options. Bought new firm ware that I never got to use and bought new again at 
the finish. Turned it on and guess what, no issues. Somehow I like the way it 
sounds, maybe better than the K3...

Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 11:24 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:
> 
> I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a good few 
> days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help you along:
> 
> It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything separate. 
> Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for test purposes 
> it's still 3 kits.
> 
> It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you 
> wont!) it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.
> 
> The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back read 
> it again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked over almost 
> 8000 times, it's right.
> 
> I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a set 
> of small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers in. I had 
> 12 I think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter and a couple 
> of inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the contents helped keep 
> from them scattering from a careless movement or other accident.
> 
> Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little brown 
> envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the resistors 
> on their tapes, they are in fitting order.
> 
> Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
> worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
> soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
> necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.
> 
> Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.
> 
> Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun you 
> have with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do your kit 
> building :)
> 
> 73
> Martin, HS0ZED
> 
> 
> 
>> On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
>> I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
>> complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking for 
>> tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest problem as I 
>> see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to make the build go 
>> smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all suggestions are welcome.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Scott
>> AD5HS
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> Message delivered to hs0...@gmail.com
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station [THREAD CLOSED]

2018-06-15 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Folks, this thread was closed -yesterday-.  Way OT and well above a reasonable 
posting number limit.

Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 6/15/2018 9:01 AM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
Codes are a only sets of standards that must be adopted (at the county level 
usually) to have the force of law.  The codes are written by 'professionals' 
(sometimes cronyism sneaks in) who have spent a long time in the trades and 
have moved up (i.e. the NFPA is mostly retired fire chiefs).


Codes are not universally adopted when printed and if they are adopted, may 
not be the most recent edition.  That is up to the local controlling board (of 
supervisors usually).  Many boards feel it necessary to 'review' (including 
modifying for local 'concerns' be that expense or politics) the code year in 
question before adoption, and since they are renewed every couple years with 
that process being tedious, the adopted code may be many years out of date.


Where I live, there is no code enforcement be it electrical, building, 
plumbing, whatever (but common sense requires following the code, so does the 
insurance company).  There are no inspectors and no management for code 
enforcement even IF it was adopted. There is no budget to hire an inspector 
and one does not even whisper adding taxes here to create any of it.


Putting up a tower is simpler, but I am requiring that the contractor follow 
the manufacturers documentation for the base and the power conduit and wiring 
are up to code.  That way, it becomes part of the house coverage for the 
insurance.


The next county to the south enforces building codes, so yes, your mileage 
varies.  Then, not all contractors (even if licensed) follow the codes.  Not 
all home inspectors (prior to sale) know what to look for as well.  It is up 
to the buyer/owner to do their due diligence here.


Mine was a good one, noted that the framing and roof were built over strong 
for added snow load for examples; knew the electrical and plumbing codes, he 
also caught the small things easily missed.


But now you know how it may have been 'missed'.  If in fact it was inspected 
at all; there may have been no adopted code to enforce by inspectors that 
don't exist.


Rick nhc


On 6/14/2018 11:39 PM, Michael Eberle wrote:
I just bought the house I'm living in last year.  While changing out some of 
the receptacles and switches I discovered that they did not use wire nuts for 
wire connections in the wall boxes. They had attempted to solder the wires 
and wrapped them in tape. Most, if not all of them were cold solder joints 
and several inches of the wire insulation had melted during the heating process.


Apparently the codes are not as strict outside of the city limits.

Mike - KI0HA


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Martin Sole
I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a 
good few days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help 
you along:


It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything 
separate. Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for 
test purposes it's still 3 kits.


It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you 
wont!) it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.


The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back 
read it again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked 
over almost 8000 times, it's right.


I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a 
set of small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers 
in. I had 12 I think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter 
and a couple of inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the 
contents helped keep from them scattering from a careless movement or 
other accident.


Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little 
brown envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the 
resistors on their tapes, they are in fitting order.


Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.


Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.

Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun 
you have with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do 
your kit building :)


73
Martin, HS0ZED



On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking 
for tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest 
problem as I see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to 
make the build go smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all 
suggestions are welcome.


Thanks in advance.

Scott
AD5HS
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Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station

2018-06-15 Thread Rick WA6NHC
Codes are a only sets of standards that must be adopted (at the county 
level usually) to have the force of law.  The codes are written by 
'professionals' (sometimes cronyism sneaks in) who have spent a long 
time in the trades and have moved up (i.e. the NFPA is mostly retired 
fire chiefs).


Codes are not universally adopted when printed and if they are adopted, 
may not be the most recent edition.  That is up to the local controlling 
board (of supervisors usually).  Many boards feel it necessary to 
'review' (including modifying for local 'concerns' be that expense or 
politics) the code year in question before adoption, and since they are 
renewed every couple years with that process being tedious, the adopted 
code may be many years out of date.


Where I live, there is no code enforcement be it electrical, building, 
plumbing, whatever (but common sense requires following the code, so 
does the insurance company).  There are no inspectors and no management 
for code enforcement even IF it was adopted. There is no budget to hire 
an inspector and one does not even whisper adding taxes here to create 
any of it.


Putting up a tower is simpler, but I am requiring that the contractor 
follow the manufacturers documentation for the base and the power 
conduit and wiring are up to code.  That way, it becomes part of the 
house coverage for the insurance.


The next county to the south enforces building codes, so yes, your 
mileage varies.  Then, not all contractors (even if licensed) follow the 
codes.  Not all home inspectors (prior to sale) know what to look for as 
well.  It is up to the buyer/owner to do their due diligence here.


Mine was a good one, noted that the framing and roof were built over 
strong for added snow load for examples; knew the electrical and 
plumbing codes, he also caught the small things easily missed.


But now you know how it may have been 'missed'.  If in fact it was 
inspected at all; there may have been no adopted code to enforce by 
inspectors that don't exist.


Rick nhc


On 6/14/2018 11:39 PM, Michael Eberle wrote:
I just bought the house I'm living in last year.  While changing out 
some of the receptacles and switches I discovered that they did not 
use wire nuts for wire connections in the wall boxes. They had 
attempted to solder the wires and wrapped them in tape. Most, if not 
all of them were cold solder joints and several inches of the wire 
insulation had melted during the heating process.


Apparently the codes are not as strict outside of the city limits.

Mike - KI0HA


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Re: [Elecraft] AC Power for the Station

2018-06-15 Thread hawley, charles j jr
Old standard way of doing it. They used to use a solder pot and immerse the 
twisted wires in the hot solder. Then cover with rubbery tape and then friction 
tape.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 1:39 AM, Michael Eberle  wrote:
> 
> I just bought the house I'm living in last year.  While changing out some of 
> the receptacles and switches I discovered that they did not use wire nuts for 
> wire connections in the wall boxes. They had attempted to solder the wires 
> and wrapped them in tape. Most, if not all of them were cold solder joints 
> and several inches of the wire insulation had melted during the heating 
> process.
> 
> Apparently the codes are not as strict outside of the city limits.
> 
> Mike - KI0HA
> 
> 
>> On 6/14/2018 15:43, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> Bob and all,
>> 
>> Yes, those "backstab" receptacles that electricians love to use because they 
>> are quick and easy do not have adequate contact stength and can overheat and 
>> cause voltage drops and a fire hazard.
>> 
>> If I were to discover them in any house I occupied, I would pull the wires 
>> out of the 'backstab' and put the wires under the screws.  There is nothing 
>> wrong with the receptacles, except for that marginal wire contact in the 
>> 'backstab' contacts - change those to "under the screw" connections and all 
>> will be well.
>> There are good 'strip and insert' receptacles use a clamping mechanism 
>> tightened with a screw, and those do not have the problem.
>> 
>> My house is wired with #12 wire for ALL the receptacles, (lighting is #14) 
>> but I do use the 15 amp receptacles with no problem (except in the kitchen 
>> where they are 20 amp) - the 15 amp receptacles will not accept #12 wire in 
>> the 'backstab' holes, so the only choice was to use the screw terminals.  I 
>> have 20 amp breakers on the receptacle circuits, but 15 amp on the lighting.
>> Yes, I did it myself and the inspector had no problem with my wiring.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

First, do not mix up the front panel, control board, and RF board parts 
when doing inventory, do each separately.
Inventory the inductor bag contents separately as well - there is a 1mH 
RF choke that looks very closely like a 1k resistor.


If you are not adept at identifying screw sizes, measure them (they are 
all 4-40 diameter).


The best method of keeping the parts organized is to use the old 
"Heathkit" method.  Seal up an empty USPS Priority Mail Medium Flat Rate 
Box (the 13.5 x 12 x 3.5 inch size) and you have 2 'trays' with 
cardboard corrugation on both sides. Stick the component leads in the 
corrugations.  The center of the tray can be used to hold the larger 
items and hardware.  I personally do not like muffin tins or plastic 
boxes for the hardware because I cannot get my fingers in to grasp them 
easily, but some folks seem to like to use them.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/15/2018 10:45 AM, Scott wrote:
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking 
for tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest 
problem as I see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to 
make the build go smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all 
suggestions are welcome.


Thanks in advance.

Scott
AD5HS
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[Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

2018-06-15 Thread Scott
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking 
for tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest 
problem as I see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to 
make the build go smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all 
suggestions are welcome.


Thanks in advance.

Scott
AD5HS
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