Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Dave Cole]

Hi Clay,

I used the folks called Front Panel Express at:

https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

Took a few hours to learn the free software they provide, but overall it 
was easy.  Not cheap, but very good results...


They even have a version that runs under Linux...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/21/20 8:03 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

I ABSOLUTELY understand, and identify! 

Could you clue us in on how you sourced/built that panel?  I'd love to 
have access to something like that!


73

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 21:49, Dave Cole wrote:
Thanks Clay...  I decided to add the patch panel because I am sick of 
haveing to rewire everything I want to change an antenna!  That and it 
feeds my OCD issues. :)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/21/20 7:07 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
That is some really first rate work   I dig it when 
folks are fastidious about their cable routing and otherwise organize 
things logically and NEATLY!!


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 18:53, Dave Cole wrote:

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the 
Patch Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace 
things with a K4 later...  :)







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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Clay Autery]

I ABSOLUTELY understand, and identify! 

Could you clue us in on how you sourced/built that panel?  I'd love to 
have access to something like that!


73

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 21:49, Dave Cole wrote:
Thanks Clay...  I decided to add the patch panel because I am sick of 
haveing to rewire everything I want to change an antenna!  That and it 
feeds my OCD issues. :)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/21/20 7:07 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
That is some really first rate work   I dig it when 
folks are fastidious about their cable routing and otherwise organize 
things logically and NEATLY!!


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 18:53, Dave Cole wrote:

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the 
Patch Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace 
things with a K4 later...  :)







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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Dave Cole]

Thanks Clay...  I decided to add the patch panel because I am sick of 
haveing to rewire everything I want to change an antenna!  That and it 
feeds my OCD issues. :)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/21/20 7:07 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
That is some really first rate work   I dig it when folks 
are fastidious about their cable routing and otherwise organize things 
logically and NEATLY!!


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 18:53, Dave Cole wrote:

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the 
Patch Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace things 
with a K4 later...  :)




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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Clay Autery]

That is some really first rate work   I dig it when folks 
are fastidious about their cable routing and otherwise organize things 
logically and NEATLY!!


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 18:53, Dave Cole wrote:

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the 
Patch Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace things 
with a K4 later...  :)




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Mark Goldberg]

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 12:29 PM David Gilbert 
wrote:

>
> Well, not all 10:1 conditions are equal (low impedances tend to give
> higher tuner voltages and power loss than higher impedances),


Dave's comment is very significant. Matching capability, loss and the power
level a tuner can handle will vary with the specific impedance of the
antenna and the construction of the tuner in question. You can't generalize
by SWR alone. So the answer, really is "it depends".

I have a switchable 4:1 or 1:1 balun and that helps get the impedance the
tuner sees into a better range for a specific frequency. I've got a
horizontal loop, not resonant on any band and the switchable balun is one
more tool in the toolbox. Unfortunately, tuner manufacturers don't publish
the capacitance and inductance ranges or voltage and current capability of
the parts they use. You can open it up and read the values off the parts
and then software like TLW or Elsie will allow you to know if it can tune a
specific impedance. If not, you can add components. My loop is a little
short for 160, so I have an external shunt inductor to help the tuner. It
will tune, but everything gets hot, so it is pretty lossy.

73,

Mark
W7MLG
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Re: [Elecraft] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[K4HYJ via Elecraft]

Nice work!!

Hank
K4HYJ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 7:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Latest on the new home for my K3...

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the Patch
Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace things with a
K4 later...  :)


--
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Jack Brindle via Elecraft]

Let me explain a bit more. The KRC2 followed the same thinking as the K2 - we 
put non-RS232 signals on the DE9 pins. That means that only pins 2 and 3 should 
see those signals, but not the others. I remember there being a warning in the 
manual about this, but I don’t find it at this point. We will have to do 
something about that. We have kicked ourselves many times for using this 
connector arrangement. As they say, that is water under the bridge.

Unfortunately jumpers W11, W12, W19 and W20 do connect DE9 pins 4 and 9 to the 
micro, through 10K dividers, meaning that if RS-232 signals are connected, they 
will only be at half voltage. Thus the microcontroller is at risk.
But, lets see if it is actually damaged by setting things up properly.

The description on page 24 of the KRC2 manual sets up both connectors for use 
with Icom band voltages. I would suggest using only one of the DE9s for the 
Icom signals, and leaving the other set up for computer use. Using the XCVR 
port for the Icom data, remove W11 and W12 and leave W19 and W20 jumpered. You 
will then want to have jumpers W9 and W10 inserted to allow the computer to 
talk to the KRC2 using the PC port. Make absolutely sure you only use a three 
pin cable for this one (this is more of a warning to others following this 
thread).

If you used the opposite connector for the Icom voltage, the jumper settings 
become:
Icom voltages connected to PC port: Remove WW9, W10, W19, W20, Insert W11, W12 
(for Icom data) and W21 and W23 for computer data on the XCVR port.

There have not been any updates to the KRC2 firmware since V1.6, so you have 
the latest. If you would like to use the KRC2 Utility to change the band maps, 
you will most likely want to have jumpers W7 and W8 removed to use 4800 bps 
communications. I don’t remember if the utility allows any other data rate, but 
that is currently the best one to use to communicate with the KRC2 with the 
utility.

You should have the connections correct, with Icom Band Voltage on pin 9 and 
Reference voltage on pin 4.

Let me know how this works for you. 

73,
Jack, W6FB

> On Apr 21, 2020, at 4:17 PM, Rich  wrote:
> 
> Installed Jumpers
> 
> W1,2,3   W11,12, 19,20
> 
> DB9 from Icom Radio  Pin 4= 8v ref,  Pin9= Icom Band Voltage Pin1=GND
> 
> Do you mean a straight through cable from PC to KRC2?   I am sure I did not 
> break anything.  I only had Pin 2 and 3 set for straight and null.   Those 
> pins should certainly not have 12v on them.  I hope
> 
> Rich
> 
> On 4/21/2020 18:58 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:
>> Rich;
>> 
>> What are the jumper settings in the KRC2?
>> 
>> It is _very_ important not to use a straight-through cable with the KRC2. As 
>> documented in the KRC2 manual, the pins are connected to the 
>> microcontroller, and the +/- 12 V excursions of the RS-232 levels will 
>> damage the microcontroller I/O pins.
>> 
>> There are two voltages you need from the Icom, the band Voltage, and the 
>> reference voltage. The band voltage output from some Icom radios have been 
>> shown to drift during transmit, so much that they may show a completely 
>> different band. For this reason the band reference voltage (+8V) needs to be 
>> used. It is this voltage that drifts, and thus the Band voltage follows.
>> 
>> With that in mind, the W9 - W22 jumper settings are important and will 
>> connect/disconnec the various pins to the DE9 connectors from the 
>> microcontroller.
>> 
>> 73!
>> Jack, W6FB
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:11 PM, Rich  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  This is 
>>> a working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.
>>> 
>>> To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used straight 
>>> through cable, Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  I have run the 
>>> program on an old XP laptop and my Win10 machine.   I have even used a 
>>> "real" comport.  None of those configurations will connect to the device.   
>>> The DL switch is set properly.
>>> 
>>> The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.
>>> 
>>> I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending the 
>>> band voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.
>>> 
>>> Do you really need the computer to make it work?  I am thinking that is 
>>> mainly for firmware and antenna relay settings
>>> 
>>> I am just trying to control a 419B bandpass filter.
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts?
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
>>> K3RWN
>>> 
>>> __
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Home: 

[Elecraft] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Dave Cole]

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

I am undertaking a full rebuild of my operating position, note the Patch 
Panel does not say K3 on it...  That means I can replace things with a 
K4 later...  :)



--
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Rich]

I have tried 4800,9600,19200 jumper settings and set the software 
appropriately.   None work.


I would think I do not need to do anything FW wise as this unit has 1.6 
from way back when


Rich

On 4/21/2020 19:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Rich,

What baud rate are you trying to use?  The KRC2 is limited to 19.2k.
Double check the jumpers for the RS232 port.
Follow the instructions in the manual to download the firmware.
You only need to connect the KRC2 to the computer for firmware, but 
you can connect the serial port on the ICOM through the KRC2 (but the 
speed needs to be limited to 19.2k.


I see Jack Brindle sent a response - he is the designer and therefore 
the expert.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2020 6:11 PM, Rich wrote:
Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  
This is a working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.


To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used 
straight through cable, Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  
I have run the program on an old XP laptop and my Win10 machine.   I 
have even used a "real" comport.  None of those configurations will 
connect to the device.   The DL switch is set properly.


The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.

I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending 
the band voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.



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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Rich]

Installed Jumpers

W1,2,3   W11,12, 19,20

DB9 from Icom Radio  Pin 4= 8v ref,  Pin9= Icom Band Voltage Pin1=GND

Do you mean a straight through cable from PC to KRC2?   I am sure I did 
not break anything.  I only had Pin 2 and 3 set for straight and null.   
Those pins should certainly not have 12v on them.  I hope


Rich

On 4/21/2020 18:58 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:

Rich;

What are the jumper settings in the KRC2?

It is _very_ important not to use a straight-through cable with the KRC2. As 
documented in the KRC2 manual, the pins are connected to the microcontroller, 
and the +/- 12 V excursions of the RS-232 levels will damage the 
microcontroller I/O pins.

There are two voltages you need from the Icom, the band Voltage, and the 
reference voltage. The band voltage output from some Icom radios have been 
shown to drift during transmit, so much that they may show a completely 
different band. For this reason the band reference voltage (+8V) needs to be 
used. It is this voltage that drifts, and thus the Band voltage follows.

With that in mind, the W9 - W22 jumper settings are important and will 
connect/disconnec the various pins to the DE9 connectors from the 
microcontroller.

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:11 PM, Rich  wrote:

Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  This is a 
working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.

To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used straight through cable, 
Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  I have run the program on an old XP laptop 
and my Win10 machine.   I have even used a "real" comport.  None of those 
configurations will connect to the device.   The DL switch is set properly.

The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.

I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending the band 
voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.

Do you really need the computer to make it work?  I am thinking that is mainly 
for firmware and antenna relay settings

I am just trying to control a 419B bandpass filter.

Any thoughts?

Rich

K3RWN

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Don Wilhelm]

Rich,

What baud rate are you trying to use?  The KRC2 is limited to 19.2k.
Double check the jumpers for the RS232 port.
Follow the instructions in the manual to download the firmware.
You only need to connect the KRC2 to the computer for firmware, but you 
can connect the serial port on the ICOM through the KRC2 (but the speed 
needs to be limited to 19.2k.


I see Jack Brindle sent a response - he is the designer and therefore 
the expert.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2020 6:11 PM, Rich wrote:
Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  This 
is a working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.


To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used 
straight through cable, Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  I 
have run the program on an old XP laptop and my Win10 machine.   I have 
even used a "real" comport.  None of those configurations will connect 
to the device.   The DL switch is set properly.


The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.

I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending the 
band voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.



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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Jack Brindle via Elecraft]

Rich;

What are the jumper settings in the KRC2?

It is _very_ important not to use a straight-through cable with the KRC2. As 
documented in the KRC2 manual, the pins are connected to the microcontroller, 
and the +/- 12 V excursions of the RS-232 levels will damage the 
microcontroller I/O pins. 

There are two voltages you need from the Icom, the band Voltage, and the 
reference voltage. The band voltage output from some Icom radios have been 
shown to drift during transmit, so much that they may show a completely 
different band. For this reason the band reference voltage (+8V) needs to be 
used. It is this voltage that drifts, and thus the Band voltage follows.

With that in mind, the W9 - W22 jumper settings are important and will 
connect/disconnec the various pins to the DE9 connectors from the 
microcontroller.

73!
Jack, W6FB


> On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:11 PM, Rich  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  This is a 
> working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.
> 
> To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used straight 
> through cable, Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  I have run the 
> program on an old XP laptop and my Win10 machine.   I have even used a "real" 
> comport.  None of those configurations will connect to the device.   The DL 
> switch is set properly.
> 
> The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.
> 
> I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending the band 
> voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.
> 
> Do you really need the computer to make it work?  I am thinking that is 
> mainly for firmware and antenna relay settings
> 
> I am just trying to control a 419B bandpass filter.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Rich
> 
> K3RWN
> 
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[Elecraft] KRC2 setup for Icom

[Rich]

Does anyone have any experience using the KRC2 with an Icom radio?  This 
is a working KRC2 that was on a K3 at one time.


To start I cannot get the KRC2 to connect to my PC.  I have used 
straight through cable, Null modem Cable and a USB to Serial Cable.  I 
have run the program on an old XP laptop and my Win10 machine.   I have 
even used a "real" comport.  None of those configurations will connect 
to the device.   The DL switch is set properly.


The KRC2 passes all of the manual button press tests.

I have the jumpers set for ICOM on KRC2 board.  The ICOM is sending the 
band voltage to the unit as measured with a Volt meter.


Do you really need the computer to make it work?  I am thinking that is 
mainly for firmware and antenna relay settings


I am just trying to control a 419B bandpass filter.

Any thoughts?

Rich

K3RWN

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Ed Pflueger]

I use the Palstar HF-Auto for 80 and 160.  The Tuner in the KPA1500 works
great on my Hy-gain 6 meter, TH11, and Hy-Tower and it only has to teak just
a hair but normally I just leave the tuner in By-Pass mode and the HF-Auto
turns into an antenna switch.  Probably the best I've ever had are the Ten
Tec 238 series of tuners.  I should have kept the last one but I didn't.  It
also had the Balun for twin lead built in as well.  In my Man Cave in the
garage I have the KPA500/KAT500 combo and they work the same antennas just
fine.

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lyn Norstad
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 10:00 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

 

73

Lyn, W0LEN

 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Recommendation Audio Spectrum Analyzer app for Win10

[gregg.w6izt1]

Thanks all

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 12:54
To: gregg.w6i...@gmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Recommendation Audio Spectrum Analyzer app for Win10

Gregg,

You can download Spectrogram from my website www.w3fpr.com.  Look near the 
bottom of the home page for the link.  I use version 16 on Windows 10.

Spectrum Lab is another alternative, but the learning curve is steeper than 
with Spectrogram.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/20/2020 11:50 AM, gregg.w6i...@gmail.com wrote:
> Looking for recommendations
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[K8TE]

The Palstar-HF Auto has 100% duty cycle and a maximum 8:1 "matching range",
according to its manual.

I have a pair of the Nye Viking MB-V-A tuners which handle 1,500 Watts with
no noticeable signs of distress although I haven't used them much on RTTY,
and definitely not in a contest.  They're useful in a few cases where the
KPA1500 internal tuner can't handle the VSWR.

I too would be interested in the 3rd party software you are using Len.

73, Bill, K8TE



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[David Gilbert]

Well, not all 10:1 conditions are equal (low impedances tend to give 
higher tuner voltages and power loss than higher impedances), and of 
course 160m is generally the most problematic band because it takes so 
much capacitance and inductance to get a decent result.  But playing 
around with TLW, the free transmission line software that comes with the 
ARRL Antenna Book is very informative since it also includes a built in 
tuner calculator.  For a typical high pass T-Network tuner, the internal 
voltages can approach 4,000 volts at 1.8 MHz with a 20 -j90 load 
(roughly 10:1 SWR), depending upon the size of the output load 
capacitor.  That pretty much rules out relay switch tuning unless anyone 
knows where they can steal a large quantity of vacuum relays, so we're 
talking some pretty large motor driven components if it was to be an 
auto tune unit.


I'm in the process of building my own high power manual tuner for use in 
the shack, and it will be a high pass T-network with additional high 
power ceramic doorknob capacitors that can be switch selected in 
parallel with the main breadslicers.  There are some incredibly high 
power NOS doorknobs available on eBay from Russian and Ukrainian vendors 
at remarkably low prices.  I've bought from several suppliers and have 
been pleased each time.  Here's an example from an Austrian vendor from 
whom I have recently purchased these exact units:


*https://tinyurl.com/ybofl2os

*In my case, in addition to switchable fixed parallel capacitors for 
both the input and output variable capacitors, I will also have a switch 
that shorts out one or the other in order to convert the tuner to an 
L-Network in case the load prefers it.


Many years ago somebody whose callsign I have since forgotten came up 
with the idea of making a remotely tuned high power L-Network tuner by 
coupling the shafts of a rotary inductor and a variable capacitor 
together and turning them at the same time with a single DC motor 
through a gear reducer.  It's not as precise as being able to tune each 
individually, but it doesn't really need to be.  The capacitor goes 
through it's full range every turn of the inductor, and you simply 
reverse the polarity of the DC voltage to tune back and forth until you 
see a match at the shack.  However, unless you have a REALLY large 
variable capacitor, or some means of switching in parallel capacitors, 
this technique probably doesn't work as well on the lower bands and 
you'd want to know in advance whether your load was higher or lower than 
50 ohms, which often determines whether you use the capacitor input or 
inductor input configuration.  It's a great way to make a wide range SWR 
extender for a single band, though.


Sorry ... this post turned into more of a ramble than I planned.

73,
Dave   AB7E




On 4/21/2020 7:59 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 (not S) line out question

[Barry]

Thanks Don.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Jim Brown]

On 4/21/2020 8:33 AM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:
Antenna Tuner SA-2060 Amateur-D Heathkit 


I had one of these for a month or two from a neighbor who was moving and 
wanted me to sell if for him. It was not nearly as good as my vintage 
Ten Tec 238 with fixed caps replaced by higher voltage parts.


It is safely stored away, one never knows if it will be needed again.


So is my 238.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] FT8 working

[Eddy - k6sdw]

Thanks to all the KX3 wizards FT8 is working now. The problem was between a
lack of strong RF signal and my audio levels I'm now making contacts.
Definitely, the bands are really busy at night!!

I'm going back to chasing SOTA activators on CW.73

k6sdw
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 (not S) line out question

[Don Wilhelm]

That is the convention for audio cables. So YES.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2020 12:55 PM, Barry wrote:

The manual says, "Normally, the left channel is
main receiver audio, and the right channel is sub
receiver audio (if applicable). "

So is the left channel (main) the tip and the right channel (subrcvr) the
ring?

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[Elecraft] FS: K3/0-Mini-F and RR boxes+cables

[Vic DiCiccio VE3YT]

For sale, my K3/0 Mini, used twice, and the Remote Rig boxes bought
pre-configured from Elecraft, plus cables to connect it to the K3/0 Mini and
a K3.  Asking $650 for the K3/0, $500 for the Remote Rig boxes and cables,
and $1100 for all, plus shipping.  Email is good on qrz.com, vicd at
uwaterloo dot ca.  
Pics:
img src=http://99.250.127.104/remote1.jpg
img src=http://99.250.127.104/remote2.jpg
img src=http://99.250.127.104/remote3.jpg
img src=http://99.250.127.104/remote5.jpg

Thanks and 73, Vic VE3YT



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[Elecraft] K3 (not S) line out question

[Barry]

The manual says, "Normally, the left channel is
main receiver audio, and the right channel is sub
receiver audio (if applicable). "

So is the left channel (main) the tip and the right channel (subrcvr) the
ring?

Tnx,
Barry W2UP



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Re: [Elecraft] k2 display side emitting leds

[carlos popelier]

Great, thanks!

Op di 21 apr. 2020 om 18:51 schreef Don Wilhelm :

> Carlos,
>
> Install them with the LED shining toward the center of the board and the
> polarity will be automatic.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/21/2020 11:17 AM, carlos.p wrote:
> > hi, for contruction of the lcd diplay there are 2 small side emitting
> leds on
> > the two sides of the display
> > they wil fit in te tiny led spacers who fit in d2 and d3 on the
> frontpanel
> > board,
> > have these leds a + to consider, their are two plusses on d2 and d3 on
> the
> > board
>


-- 
mvg carlos popelier
regards carlos popelier
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 display side emitting leds

[Don Wilhelm]

Carlos,

Install them with the LED shining toward the center of the board and the 
polarity will be automatic.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2020 11:17 AM, carlos.p wrote:

hi, for contruction of the lcd diplay there are 2 small side emitting leds on
the two sides of the display
they wil fit in te tiny led spacers who fit in d2 and d3 on the frontpanel
board,
have these leds a + to consider, their are two plusses on d2 and d3 on the
board

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Lyn Norstad]

Thanks Clay.

The Palstar HF Auto, rated at 1800 watts PEP, "looks like" it has the same 
components as their 5K manual tuner, which is rated at 3500 watts PEP 
continuous and also rated at 2000 ohms max, which is 40:1.

What 3rd party software are you using?

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay Autery
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 10:23 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

To my knowledge the best (only?) auto-tuner capable of handling legal 
limit is the HF Auto, which is rated at 18800 watts  Don't remember 
the duty cycle spec.
However, AFTER making my way through the learning curve on it and the 
software available 3rd party, I have to say, it is simply awesome.

Of course, I don't think it will do 10:1 either  Can't imagine the 
monster tuner (likely manual) that you'd have to build to handle 10:1 at 
1500Watss, 100% duty cycle...

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 09:59, Lyn Norstad wrote:
> Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
> of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
> using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
> etc.)?
>
>   
>
> 73
>
> Lyn, W0LEN
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

I use resonant antennas now, but prior to this the KAT500 and before 
that the Heathkit SA-2060 (which can use darn near anything).


Antenna Tuner SA-2060 Amateur-D Heathkit Brand, Heath Co.; B


It is safely stored away, one never knows if it will be needed again.

Rick NK7I


On 4/21/2020 7:59 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

  


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[Elecraft] k2 building

[carlos.p]

in my former post about the side emitting leds i forgot to mension its for k2
kit
carlos



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Clay Autery]

To my knowledge the best (only?) auto-tuner capable of handling legal 
limit is the HF Auto, which is rated at 18800 watts  Don't remember 
the duty cycle spec.
However, AFTER making my way through the learning curve on it and the 
software available 3rd party, I have to say, it is simply awesome.


Of course, I don't think it will do 10:1 either  Can't imagine the 
monster tuner (likely manual) that you'd have to build to handle 10:1 at 
1500Watss, 100% duty cycle...


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 04/21/20 09:59, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

  


73

Lyn, W0LEN

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[Elecraft] k2 display side emitting leds

[carlos.p]

hi, for contruction of the lcd diplay there are 2 small side emitting leds on
the two sides of the display
they wil fit in te tiny led spacers who fit in d2 and d3 on the frontpanel
board,
have these leds a + to consider, their are two plusses on d2 and d3 on the
board
carlos



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Re: [Elecraft] scratchs on display

[Chris Cox]

Thanks everyone for all of the great suggestions.

--
Chris Cox, N0UK, G4JEC
chr...@chris.org

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Tuner Question for the Group

[Lyn Norstad]

Since the tuner built in to the KPA1500 is not able to handle the full power
of the amp at a 10:1 SWR (like the KAT/KPA500 Combo), what tuner(s) are you
using if you need that kind of matching capability (i.e.: for balanced feed,
etc.)?

 

73

Lyn, W0LEN

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[Lyn Norstad]

Kevin -

Are you sure?  Sounds like a Beta version. The latest "stable" version of
Chrome for Linux reportedly is indeed ver. 81.0.4044.113.



73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Cozens
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 9:01 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

On 2020-04-21 8:19 a.m., Lyn Norstad wrote:
> If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so
ASAP.
> 
>   
> 
> Link to article below.

That looks like old news. The article talks about version 81 of Chrome. On 
my Linux machine I already have version 83 installed.

-- 
Cheers!

Kevin. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I updated my Windows 10 machines this morning.

They show:

Google Chrome is up to date
Version 81.0.4044.113 (Official Build) (64-bit)

73
Bob, K4TAX


On 4/21/2020 9:01 AM, Kevin Cozens wrote:

On 2020-04-21 8:19 a.m., Lyn Norstad wrote:
If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so 
ASAP.



Link to article below.


That looks like old news. The article talks about version 81 of 
Chrome. On my Linux machine I already have version 83 installed.



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Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[Kevin Cozens]

On 2020-04-21 8:19 a.m., Lyn Norstad wrote:

If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so ASAP.

  


Link to article below.


That looks like old news. The article talks about version 81 of Chrome. On 
my Linux machine I already have version 83 installed.


--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   | "Nerds make the shiny things that
https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens | distract the mouth-breathers, and
| that's why we're powerful"
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  |
#include  | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[n6...@outlook.com]

Enclosing the link between <> characters keeps it complete;




From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Lyn Norstad 
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 5:19 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so ASAP.

Link to article below.

73
Lyn, W0LEN

https://www.forbes.com/sites/gordonkelly/2020/04/18/google-chrome-81-critica
l-security-exploit-upgrade-warning-update-chrome-browser/





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[Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[Lyn Norstad]

If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so ASAP.

 

Link to article below.

 

73

Lyn, W0LEN

 

https://www.forbes.com/sites/gordonkelly/2020/04/18/google-chrome-81-critica
l-security-exploit-upgrade-warning-update-chrome-browser/

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] USB Noise core gets hot when operating FT*?

[AE4PB]

Thanks Rick, 

 My Antenna situation is temporary. I purchased a Hustler 6BTV from DX
Engineering am working on getting it installed. It may take several weeks as
I work full time and  am working towards my MBA full time. I may shuffle the
project priorities around and work on the Coax routing to move my temporary
antenna outdoors. Since it's a temporary setup I'll be routing out through
the window which is going to take a bit of construction to achieve something
that's secure and energy friendly. I'm not able to avoid using USB but I can
certainly move the antenna. 

 

Jerry Moore

AE4PB

 

>Jerry,

 

>Ignoring how you've set up your station for the moment (every station has
compromises but some push that to an extreme); the shutdown? of the
connection is likely that RF got into the USB cable (as demonstrated by the
hot >ferrite) which caused the USB port hardware to lock up.

 

>USB hardware can 'stick' so it won't work properly, a complete power cycle
empties it of any charge, 'unsticking' the hardware.? (Yah a gross
simplification, but you get the point.)

 

>The only SURE way to restore it to function (assuming it's not blown) is a
complete power down (unplugged from all power, let the power supply drain,
disconnect the laptop battery, count another ten seconds) and restart.? That
is >why it worked after you 'cooled it off'.

 

>If you can shift to a real serial port (not a serial dongle), that will
help.? USB is RF intolerant compared to serial.? It's simplest to avoid USB
as much as feasible near any RF.

 

>If you can't avoid USB, you'll need to add a lot more ferrite or better
yet, improve the antenna situation dramatically.

 

>In the cases I MUST run a USB connection, I distance the antenna from the
computer as much as possible and I run <100 watts (QRP to me), but generally
that's when I run a portable station.? Jim, K9YC will tell you it's related
to 'Pin >1' and the short version is that is has to do with bonding all
things to a common ground; USB devices often ignore this.

 

>In a few cases, improved bonding between the computer and radio /may/ help,
but I'd have low hopes if the antenna is mere feet away.? Take the hot
ferrite as a warning sign, it's not a healthy environment.

 

>73,

>Rick NK7I

 

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Re: [Elecraft] USB Noise core gets hot when operating FT*?

[Richard Corfield]

You could try setting up counterpoises for the ham-stick. If it's for the
20m band, then ra few adial wires about 5m long should help. Connect to the
earth side at the base of the ham-stick. They're 1/4 wavelength so if tuned
correctly will act as a low impedance to the RF energy at the base of the
antenna providing what some call  a "virtual earth". They effectively form
the bottom half of the dipole antenna.

You'd want to protect your equipment. Another part of this equation would
be to stop RF going back down the outside of the coax to the radio. If you
don't have a choke ferrite to work with make a coil with the coax.
Inductance increases with diameter and amount of turns.

Also lower power. If you do the above then your antenna will be working
more efficiently anyway and you may find that you're doing well on 10W or
less as well as being safer. I got UK to USA on 10W on 20m this weekend
using Morse Code. Antenna was bigger which helps, though it was a dipole
who's main radiation pattern would have been more North/South (just the way
our garden is oreinted) not East/West.

 - Richard


On Tue, 21 Apr 2020 at 10:14, Richard Corfield 
wrote:

> It really sounds from the posts as if the radio and everything connected
> to it was acting as counterpoise to the ham-stick. This is dangerous
> because it means your radio is acting as part of the antenna. You don't
> want to touch antennas while they are transmitting, especially at higher
> power.
>
> The RF choke on the USB cable was doing its job to try to protect the
> computer from stray RF. If the radio is acting as part of the antenna then
> a lot of power is going to be heading down that USB cable (a
> USB-Cable-Counterpoise) and the choke will be absorbing it (or some of it)
> before it hits the computer. The choke has become hot because it's
> absorbing that RF energy. Current is flowing through it for it to get warm,
> so some energy will still be reaching the computer.
>
> It implies that a fair amount of your 50W may not be getting into the air
> at all but getting into equipment and anything touching or connected to it.
>
>  - Richard
>
>
> On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 at 20:59, Rick Bates, NK7I 
> wrote:
>
>> Jerry,
>>
>> Ignoring how you've set up your station for the moment (every station
>> has compromises but some push that to an extreme); the shutdown  of the
>> connection is likely that RF got into the USB cable (as demonstrated by
>> the hot ferrite) which caused the USB port hardware to lock up.
>>
>> USB hardware can 'stick' so it won't work properly, a complete power
>> cycle empties it of any charge, 'unsticking' the hardware.  (Yah a gross
>> simplification, but you get the point.)
>>
>> The only SURE way to restore it to function (assuming it's not blown) is
>> a complete power down (unplugged from all power, let the power supply
>> drain, disconnect the laptop battery, count another ten seconds) and
>> restart.  That is why it worked after you 'cooled it off'.
>>
>> If you can shift to a real serial port (not a serial dongle), that will
>> help.  USB is RF intolerant compared to serial.  It's simplest to avoid
>> USB as much as feasible near any RF.
>>
>> If you can't avoid USB, you'll need to add a lot more ferrite or better
>> yet, improve the antenna situation dramatically.
>>
>> In the cases I MUST run a USB connection, I distance the antenna from
>> the computer as much as possible and I run <100 watts (QRP to me), but
>> generally that's when I run a portable station.  Jim, K9YC will tell you
>> it's related to 'Pin 1' and the short version is that is has to do with
>> bonding all things to a common ground; USB devices often ignore this.
>>
>> In a few cases, improved bonding between the computer and radio /may/
>> help, but I'd have low hopes if the antenna is mere feet away.  Take the
>> hot ferrite as a warning sign, it's not a healthy environment.
>>
>> 73,
>> Rick NK7I
>>
>>
>> On 4/18/2020 5:46 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
>> > Today I was working a digital mode (FT8) and lost connection to the
>> radio. I
>> > cycled power with no success. On reseating the USB connection at the
>> > computer I felt the ferrite core was HOT. The cable didn't feel hot at
>> all.
>> > I'm using a 20m hamstick in the office as my antenna. I shut everything
>> down
>> > to cool off. Afterwards everything seems to be working correctly.
>> >
>> > Any ideas?
>> >
>> > Tnx and 73
>> >
>> > Jerry D. Moore
>> >
>> > AE4PB
>> >
>> > __
>> > Elecraft mailing list
>> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> >
>> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> > Message delivered to rick.n...@gmail.com
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: 

Re: [Elecraft] USB Noise core gets hot when operating FT*?

[Richard Corfield]

It really sounds from the posts as if the radio and everything connected to
it was acting as counterpoise to the ham-stick. This is dangerous because
it means your radio is acting as part of the antenna. You don't want to
touch antennas while they are transmitting, especially at higher power.

The RF choke on the USB cable was doing its job to try to protect the
computer from stray RF. If the radio is acting as part of the antenna then
a lot of power is going to be heading down that USB cable (a
USB-Cable-Counterpoise) and the choke will be absorbing it (or some of it)
before it hits the computer. The choke has become hot because it's
absorbing that RF energy. Current is flowing through it for it to get warm,
so some energy will still be reaching the computer.

It implies that a fair amount of your 50W may not be getting into the air
at all but getting into equipment and anything touching or connected to it.

 - Richard


On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 at 20:59, Rick Bates, NK7I  wrote:

> Jerry,
>
> Ignoring how you've set up your station for the moment (every station
> has compromises but some push that to an extreme); the shutdown  of the
> connection is likely that RF got into the USB cable (as demonstrated by
> the hot ferrite) which caused the USB port hardware to lock up.
>
> USB hardware can 'stick' so it won't work properly, a complete power
> cycle empties it of any charge, 'unsticking' the hardware.  (Yah a gross
> simplification, but you get the point.)
>
> The only SURE way to restore it to function (assuming it's not blown) is
> a complete power down (unplugged from all power, let the power supply
> drain, disconnect the laptop battery, count another ten seconds) and
> restart.  That is why it worked after you 'cooled it off'.
>
> If you can shift to a real serial port (not a serial dongle), that will
> help.  USB is RF intolerant compared to serial.  It's simplest to avoid
> USB as much as feasible near any RF.
>
> If you can't avoid USB, you'll need to add a lot more ferrite or better
> yet, improve the antenna situation dramatically.
>
> In the cases I MUST run a USB connection, I distance the antenna from
> the computer as much as possible and I run <100 watts (QRP to me), but
> generally that's when I run a portable station.  Jim, K9YC will tell you
> it's related to 'Pin 1' and the short version is that is has to do with
> bonding all things to a common ground; USB devices often ignore this.
>
> In a few cases, improved bonding between the computer and radio /may/
> help, but I'd have low hopes if the antenna is mere feet away.  Take the
> hot ferrite as a warning sign, it's not a healthy environment.
>
> 73,
> Rick NK7I
>
>
> On 4/18/2020 5:46 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> > Today I was working a digital mode (FT8) and lost connection to the
> radio. I
> > cycled power with no success. On reseating the USB connection at the
> > computer I felt the ferrite core was HOT. The cable didn't feel hot at
> all.
> > I'm using a 20m hamstick in the office as my antenna. I shut everything
> down
> > to cool off. Afterwards everything seems to be working correctly.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Tnx and 73
> >
> > Jerry D. Moore
> >
> > AE4PB
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to rick.n...@gmail.com
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] K4

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

I am line-of-sight to a 50kW AM transmitter (at least one, maybe more 
co-located at the site). I was using a vertical antenna, which was very 
good at picking up AM BC signals.


I had a problem that the plentiful RF overrode the bias on my K3's T/R 
switch diodes, causing IMD all over the lower bands. I made a HP filter 
that cut off at about 2 MHz (I don't operate on 160m) and that cleaned 
it up.


When I switched to a horizontal antenna, the problem went away. Now in 
addition, I am using a Johnson Matchbox, which is very good at 
attenuating out-of-band signals.


If you have a similar problem and you make a HP filter, note that it has 
to have power-handling capability so you can transmit through it. The 
t/r switch and the K3 (and probably in the K4) is before the alternate 
RX input/output, so you can't just put the filter in the receive path.


As someone else pointed out, none of this applies if the IM is being 
generated by chain-link fences or any other non-linear junctions out there.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 19/04/2020 22:31, RALPH TURK wrote:

Wayne et all
My only concern before I order a K4 is how it will work with two high power
AM transmitters near me.
10KW day,1kw night  KVOI south of me and a 50kw day only KUAT AM north of me.
At some time, I will need to borrow or rent a k4 for a week and see how it 
behaves
The majority of my operation is between 2-3.5 Mhz, 4 to 7mhz,  7.3-10mhz, 11mhz 
to14mhz.
I also use my radio on most ham bands.  I currently use a K3 with all bells and 
1000MP
The MP seems to handle the intermod better then the k3
The intermod is not caused within the radios but cause by rusty chainlink 
fence, poor power line
grounds etc.  My antennas are not the problem.  I tried a sharp cutoff filter 
for everything below
3.5mhz.  No positive measurable results.

Ralph, W7HSG, AFA9RT
520-444-6610

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Re: [Elecraft] What's the best method to send high speed CW?

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

By computer? Winkey USB. Hands down.

73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 18/04/2020 16:27, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

What's the best method to send high speed CW with a K3S via Computer?
Serial adapter to the Key port or software via USB or ??
73
Jerry D. Moore

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