RE: [Elecraft] K3 with a PW-1

2008-11-20 Thread Don Melcher
Yes. I later found this:

http://www.qth.com/topten/apnote3.htm


-Original Message-
From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 9:19 PM
To: 'Don - W6CZ'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 with a PW-1


Don, 

A series of FET switches or relays connecting the "bottom half" 
of a voltage divider can be built fairly easily and driven from 
a BCD to 1 of 9 decoder (like the W9XT board).  With relays or 
a good low Vsat FET, the divider can be driven from a 7808 
regulator.  With transistors or a ULN2804 darlington array, 
Vsat is high enough that you might not be able to properly 
encode 30 meters.  Using 5K or 10K pots as part of the divider 
for each band is worthwhile to allow setting the band voltage 
correctly.   

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don - W6CZ
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 8:51 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 with a PW-1
> 
> 
> 
> The PW1 uses CI-V band information. It does NOT use the band 
> voltage information. The 7 pin ACC2 cable is for PTT & ALC 
> lines. As has been pointed out - Microham makes band decoders 
> and interfaces that will do the job. 
> 
> BTW - I found this thread looking for info because I want to 
> use a K2 with a IC-4KL - It DOES use the band voltage. I have 
> 2 of each that I want to employ in a second SO2R station 
> where the first position is a 7800/756pro3 and PW-1's. It 
> will be interesting to compare and might spur me to get rid 
> of the 7800 and pro3 for K3's.
> 
> 
> 
> K4GM-George wrote:
> > 
> > Does anyone use a K3 with a PW-1 setup to autoswitch the 
> AMP as the K3 
> > changes bands. ?   Just replaced my 756 Pro II with the K3 and am 
> > wondering whether it will be simple to operate the Amp as before.
> > 
> > K4GM- George
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> 
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-with-a-PW-1-tp1437483p1559900.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] N4PY software

2005-05-10 Thread Don Melcher
If you are at Dayton, you should stop by Carl at booth 481 and see what
functionality N4PY software can add to your K2 (like dual RX!).

Don
W6CZ


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[Elecraft] troubles with kits

2004-11-18 Thread Don Melcher
Herb

Why don't you start with something like one of the mini-module kits? That
will give you an idea of what to expect and let you develop your soldering
skills if they are lacking. There are some important things to keep in mind
when building kits. One - the right tools - in particular soldering
iron/station, solder, wire cutters and strippers, pliers and screwdrivers
are about all that is needed - but good quality tools can make all the
difference in the world. There are many recommendations that have been
discussed here. Second - patience - don't be in a hurry. Third - time -
hopefully when you won't be interrupted or distracted. Do construction in
chunks and take breaks - if you are tired you make mistakes. Fourth - follow
the instructions exactly - inventory all the parts before starting
construction, take the time to check off all the steps as you go through it
and don't try to skip steps because you think you know better. If you don't
understand something, read it again - and if not then - get on here and ask.


I have 2 K2/100s with KAT100s and KRC2. I have to confess I had all but one
of the KAT100s built by two of the builders listed on the website due to
time constraints. That may be an option for you. Some of them don't charge
for their services, others a nominal fee. I did recently built a second
KAT100 and found it quite satisfying. I wish I had the time to have built
the K2s, as I had a problem with one, and troubleshooting it would have been
a LOT easier as I would have been more familiar with the circuitry.

Like others on here, I built a LOT of Heathkits in my day - everything from
a crystal set, ham gear (I still have my first TX - a DX20), stereo gear to
an electronic organ and a color TV that ran the first time I turned it on
(so did everything else I built unless I had a brain fade somewhere along
the line) and kept running for 20+ years. I found the KAT100 kit to be along
the same lines. A KX1 is in the near future for me. One of the more tedious
chores is winding torroids - and those are available pre-wound if you don't
want to do that. But it also can be good therapy - better then kicking the
dog after a hard day at work.

You can always build it in stages - there have been recommendations as to
what sequence it should be done in on here - or you can do it all at once.
But - the BIG thing is - how ever you do it, with a K2 you will have one of
the best transceivers available for ANY money.  I have a station on the
property of a second home I am building that I share with a friend. He has
an Icom 7800 there that I often use when I go up there. At home I have other
radios that are the best ever made - some of it older tube gear and some of
it newer - Collins, Drake, Kenwood, Yaesu & Icom. The K2 is every bit as
good receiver as any of them - maybe better then a lot, and for some reason,
it is a lot more fun to operate.

And welcome to the world of ham radio.

Don
W6CZ


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[Elecraft] Intermittent no RX on 80/160 K2/100 #4029

2004-11-12 Thread Don Melcher
I thought this problem was related to the T/R switching problem I was having
and fixed (a no solder joint), but apparently I though that because I first
noticed that failure on 80 meters.

So I brought it into work today, and when I hooked it up to a service
monitor and put a signal into it - no problem. Damn! I hate intermittent.

I took the covers and the PA off and poked around. Looked particularly at
the band-pass and low-pass filters ad specifically around K2, K3 & K8. Also
looked around K13 in the VCO - but I don't think that is where the problem
is as it appeared to transmit - at least the KAT100 indicated 20 watts, and
since I don't have the 60M kit in, that relay is also common to 40 and 40
was working fine (I believe 30 was also, so that kinda eliminates K3). I
have cycled through the bands, no problem. It has been sitting on the bench
for an hour now with a signal into it working fine.

Any ideas? Am I missing something? It would be a LOT easier to find the
problem if it was broken.

Don




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Re:[Elecraft] KPA100 T/R Switching Failure

2004-11-09 Thread Don Melcher
Appears to been bad solder connection of RFC11 to C31/RFC4/L16. T/R
switching working now - need to check comms to KAT100 when I get home.

Don
W6CZ


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Re:[Elecraft] Rediculous, unreasonable and selfish firmware feature request

2004-11-09 Thread Don Melcher
Not so far fetched - my Icom 703 (nice features - so-so receiver) has
that - as well as others I own or have owned. Perhaps it would be easier
implement in conjunction with the KRC2 or some similar device. The 703
uses the four buttons along the bottom of the display - 3 memory  You
could also find yourself an old AEA Morse Machine - I have a couple of
MM3 models and they do what you want. But I know, it would be nice to
have it all in one box.

Don
W6CZ




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[Elecraft] KPA100 T/R Switching Failure

2004-11-08 Thread Don Melcher
I'll try this again - sorry if it appears twice

During SS, one of my K2/100s (4029) failed. No RX and as I recall no TX.
It was intermittent at first (and had intermittently shown this symptom
before) and to be honest, between fighting a cold and trying to work at
least a sweep between family commitments for my father's (W6ARM) 85th
birthday (I missed - if you can believe it - LAX & SDG - doh!) things is
a bit fuzzy. 

I did some poking around and another thing I noticed was failure of it
to communicate with the KAT100 (if I recall correctly it was talking to
the computer correctly). 

This morning, I took the PA off and hooked just the k2 up to the antenna
and all seems fine. So I started checking voltages in the PA, and the
problem seems to be in the High-Voltage Bias Supply. All the voltages
are low - with the higher voltages by about 30% and the lower ones by a
lot more. i.e.:

Anode   Cathode
D1  7.6 93
D2  65  7.5
D3  5.8 65
D4  31  5.8
D5  4   31
D6  13.74
D7  -18 *
D8  *   0

* Undetermined - the display my cheap DMM is flashing between odd values
an -1 as if it were an AC voltage or out of range - better test gear at
the shop would help - but it is there and I am here and I don't feel
like going if I don't have to. It can wait.

Power set above 100 W:


Cathode RX  Cathode TX
D11 80  .8
D12 .8  52
D13 80  .8
D14 .8  52

So while they seem like they are doing what they should - the voltages
are way off. The notes in the construction manual on page 43 indicate
the voltage test was within range when built - and it has been working
fine for about 6 months of light use - though it was acting up
intermittently.


So I looked at Q8 - the collector voltage is at around 2.3 - 2.5 volts
instead of 11.6 (It is 13.6 at the input to T3). The base voltage is -28
or about 10x what it should be - although the chart says that is
approximate and may fluctuate (and it is fluctuating) - but it isn't
anything close to -2.5 - so I am thinking Q8 went south (open emitter?)

Since it is rather a pain to replace - I would like to get opinions from
others - there may be something I am overlooking (and I AM under the
influence of cold medications - so things are a bit fuzzy).

Thanks

Don
W6CZ






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RE: [Elecraft] KRC2 programming

2004-10-06 Thread Don Melcher
Eric

Yes - I am. If anyone can break it, I can - I seem to have a penchant
for those things - like a perfectly good working copy or fax machine
will suddenly malfunction when I use it...

I can promise to spend a lot of time - on top of running my business
(which continues to grow rapidly) I am building a new station in
Mariposa (2 tx remote controlled over the internet) and having a 2700
sq. ft. building (one bedroom living space with 1800 sq. ft of shop
space) constructed.


Don - W6CZ

-Original Message-
From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 11:02 PM
To: Don Melcher
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

Hi Don,

See   http://www.elecraft.com/images/KRC2config2.JPG

This picture is of my last revision of the KRC2 config program. I'm now 
adding at cutsomer request the ability to save several KRC2 mapping 
setups to both quick memories and to a file, along with the ability to 
download complete firmware updates to the KRC2 from your computer. It 
has about one more day of work before I release it to beta test. I'm 
busy with other tasks tomorrow, but I'll be back on it Thursday.

I'm looking for several beta testers. Are you interested?

73, Eric


Don Melcher wrote:

>"For inquiring minds ;-) , I'm in the final phase of finishing up the
>reconfiguration program for the KRC2. I'll post here as I get it
wrapped
>up later this week.
>
>73, Eric WA6HHQ"
> 
> 
>WELL?
>Don - W6CZ
>
>  
>


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2004-10-05 Thread Don Melcher
"For inquiring minds ;-) , I'm in the final phase of finishing up the
reconfiguration program for the KRC2. I'll post here as I get it wrapped
up later this week.

73, Eric WA6HHQ"
 
 
WELL?
Don - W6CZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 w/ Winlink 2000?

2004-09-03 Thread Don Melcher
Charles

You might try to get a little "real world" experience with Winlink and
PactorIII/II before you write that letter to QST. 

While the Skymate you have and speak of is a wonderful system and works
well, and the "buy-in" is less if you are starting from scratch (I am a
dealer for both), it has an infinitely higher operating cost then a
system using Winlink because Winlink if free. But most cruisers want to
or already have a suitable SSB/Ham and adding a PactorIII/II modem is
about the same cost as Skymate. Yes - Skymate (in the coverage area) is
probably a bit more reliable but thousands of boaters and RV'ers use
Winlink with great success.

There are several points you make that are faulty, among them that the
DSP NR on a 706 will help (and that it is better then a K2 - that is not
my experience). The PactorII modems them self have a very powerful DSP
and using the rigs DSP only screws things up for PactorIII/II. 

The right radio and modem coupled with a good installation is the key.
RFI into the computer is one of the biggest problems. I now have
supplied over 1,000 HF e-mail systems for use on WinLink and SailMail
(the equivalent on Marine SSB) with 90% of those using the PactorII or
the PactorIIpro modem (and not the IIe or IIex) married to an Icom
marine SSB radio that is ham enabled. I have absolutely nothing but
positive feedback (which I also have from the 2 dozen or so of my
Skymate customers). That is largely because I furnish a turnkey system
that is the right recipe of equipment that has been bench tested before
being offered for sale. When you depart from that recipe, then the
results are usually not as good.

I have not tried my K2s for Data - I have a dedicated Icom M710 (which a
lot of the Winlink gateways also use) in the shack for that use, but
there is no reason that if the output power is reduced, the K2 won't
work fine. There have been previous reports on this list of others
success with the K2 and SCS modems. 

Don
W6CZ


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[Elecraft] Re: Hakko 808 wanted

2004-08-26 Thread Don Melcher
I just did a quick google and came up with $159.95 at Kiesub Electronics
in Las Vegas - http://www.kiesub.com/hakko808.htm - $40 less then the 3
or 4 other places I checked.

Having been saying that I really need to get a desoldering station for
far too long - I ordered one.


Don


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Re:[Elecraft] K2's and the N4PY Program?

2004-08-13 Thread Don Melcher
I have not used it in the Dual K2 mode - yet - I have been working on
cleaning up the station at home after moving the remote station out and to
the permanent remote station location. I finally got a new USB> 8 port
serial box (so now I have a total of 11 and STILL not enough) and I should
get the second K2 working this weekend. I have used it with a Ten Tec RX320
as a sub-RX to the K2 and it works very nicely.

Good software - robust. The only negative I can say is that it was written
for TenTec radios so the panel is NOT K2 specific and there are a lot of
buttons and functions that are either extraneous and/or non-functional with
the K2.

Don


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[Elecraft] Re: VOX

2004-08-12 Thread Don Melcher
a No ahhh I don't ah use it ahhh and I don't ahh like it
:) I have tried using it mobile but got into problems violating FCC rules
when other drivers cut me off.

Prefer a boom-mike headset (the original Heil BM10) and a handheld pendant
switch and foot switch in parallel. Use one of the original Heil 706
Traveler mobile with my 706MKIIG

We used to have a friend Morrie, W6STV, (long ago a SK) who hung out on
3904.8 KHz (don't ask). He had a Drake TR3 with VOX. He usually left the
radio on and on that frequency (when he wasn't on 40 with his brother in
Minnesota, by golly). His dog had a bed in the radio room by the wood stove
and when ever he was home, the dog was usually in his bed. If we wanted to
get Morrie on the radio, we would get on 3904.8, whistle a couple of times
and call "Brownie" a couple of times. The dog would start barking, which let
us know that they were home, and Morrie would hear the dog barking and come
to the radio to see who was calling.

Don
W6CZ



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RE: [Elecraft] KRC2 Config utility

2004-08-04 Thread Don Melcher
Hi Elecrafters,

will there be a KRC2 configuration utility in the near future? I would
really like to configure the thing via software. I often change antenna
configuration in my fieldday setups, but would like to use ONE pre-
assembled control-line with water-proof/assembled connectors, etc. Today
I'm fiddling around with jumper wires inside the KRC2.

Will the command set be made available? Would be willing to design such a
utility.

VY 73 de Marcus, DL1EKC

GOOD QUESTION Marcus

I asked that myself a couple of months back and the reply was basically
someday.

I am VERY DISAPPOINTED in Elecraft advertising (and continuing to advertise)
a product with an unavailable (as of yet) feature. It was one consideration
in purchasing a KRC2 for each of my two K2's.

Don
W6CZ




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Re: [Elecraft] Insulated Backstay

2004-07-11 Thread Don Melcher
Mike

The 23' feet dimension is specified because that is the shortest length
the tuners like the SGC230 and Icom AT120/130/140 AH2/3, etc., will load
on 2 MHz and 2.182 MHz is the "distress" frequency on Marine MF - though
not monitored much outside the US any more.

I have done computer modeling of a typical cruising boat - a Valiant 40
- and found that actually the BEST antenna was to only insulate the
bottom of the backstay and load the whole rig, AS DISCUSSED in the
current editions of the ARRL Antenna Book. But I got tired of arguing
with people that this would actually work - "But it is a short!" - as I
was advocating it long before the Antenna Book, and gave up. And - in
some cases it didn't work very well - on a ketch rig or with a "split"
backstay. On a sloop, with a single wire from the mast to the stern - it
is killer. In a lot of cases, we simply ran a 6 gauge wire back from the
base of the mast or the forestay to the ground of the tuner and jumpered
all the fitting toggles with wire for good continuity - forming a big
"loop". The one insulator was because without it, there would be a lot
of leakage from the chainplate at the feed point to ground after the
stern gets coated with salt spray (but some installations worked OK
without it anyway - Brian may recall Bill Parks' Islander 36 Stray Cat
Blues about 2 or 3 races ago and his effort before that - Bill
introduced the idea to me when he was interviewing me for an article in
Latitude 38. It was in a book that was published some years ago on Ham
Radio and Cruising and the author discussed not using insulators - at
first I too said it wouldn't work - then I thought about it for a
while).

For an insulated stay. a length of 45' seems to be (a stretch of the
word) "optimal" in that it is efficient on the lower frequencies yet not
too long so it maintains a decent angle of radiation on the higher
frequencies. In reality - an insulated backstay is a pretty poor antenna
when you look at the pattern as on most bands there are two pretty deep
nulls about 120 degrees off the bow. Fortunately - they are fairly
narrow. But you won't be able to achieve that length on a W32. A 23'
whip as typically used on a power boat and most multi-hulls has an
almost perfect omni pattern and a good launch angle - of course -
assuming the boat is upright in the water - which is often NOT the case
under way.

IN short - no matter what you do - it is a compromise and you would have
to work REALLY hard to screw it up so it wouldn't work as long as you
follow good engineering practices. I have never seen an Icom tuner fail
to load anything on any frequency - not the same can be said for the
SGC230 (but that seems to be a different problem where it just won't
tune sometimes without being reset) or certain SEA tuners (the 1635 will
not load a 1/4 wave on 4.146 MHz - the check-in frequency for the PacCup
race - go figure - and that is EXACTLY what they cut the backstay to on
a Santa Cruz 52 - I received panic calls from three boats just before
they were leaving on past Pacific Cups who had that tuner installed by
someone because it - with the companion SEA235 radio - was light weight
- didn't bother to check if it would work). SEA's other tuners (like the
1631) do not appear to have this problem and like the SGC, will work
with any radio. 

As far as grounding - there are many methods - but the only one I can
say WILL work is bronze plates (drag is NOT an issue on a Westsail 32) -
I recommend 2 of the 3" x 12" - and I have close to 500 installations
now with no RFI problems running 150 watts using e-mail to back that up.

I am not saying other methods WON'T work - just that it is difficult to
predict the results and it can be a tremendous amount of work and
expense with poor results. One thing that has been determined is SOME
sort of direct sea-water contact is needed.

Don Melcher
W6CZ
HF Radio On Board
www.hfradio.com 


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Re:[Elecraft] Thoughts on the KDSP2

2004-06-18 Thread Don Melcher
Wayne - I wonder if you - or anyone else for that matter - has found any
values that work better then the default?

Don
W6ZO


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