Re: [Elecraft] A dumb question about lightning
First thing and foremost - switches are mostly not relevant to protection. Energy that can travel 1000' through the sky is likely to continue across most switches. So, the utmost of safety is what you indicated you did - disconnect. By disconnect, I mean either disconnect outside the building, leaving the feed on the ground or leave the feed connected to a copper plate that is in turn connected to an 8' deep ground stake. On the inside of the house, disconnect the lines from that plate and leave them on the floor. Another such stake near the feed point of the antenna is also a great idea. If it's possible to lower the antenna when not in use, that's a great idea. This should be the default when not in use. You have the belief that no grounding system is perfectly effective (for all imaginable strikes) - maybe, but a good grounding system is far better than foolishness. A grounding system, or an antenna is not a "lightning magnet". If it doesn't strike it won't. If it does it will and the grounding system assures the energy will be less likely to cause harm. Some places and circumstances are more or less likely but everywhere is possible. If that possibility happens, a good grounding system is why it is likely to be survived. A key thing to understand is that when Lightning strikes in nature, all the energy travels along the surface of the ground. It can do this for many feet and be lethal doing it. Anything that stands along the radius from the point of the strike (one part closer and the other further) is in danger. Four legged animals, having more distant contact points, more dangerous. The purpose of a ground stake (8' straight down) is to channel the electricity deep, rather than along the surface. Don't use emotional theories. Read the lightning mitigation and grounding books offered by the ARRL. Use UL approved conductors and stakes. Do not use your homes electrical service ground stake. Keep that separate. All the above is a "cliffs notes" and so is anything else posted here. Read the books. Ask senior members of a local club, to review your plan. W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Calibration of KX3 may not be necessary
Send email to supp...@elecraft.com with the serial number of your rig (either the sticker on the back or displayed in the rigs parameters) and request the original configuration file. Whether your kX3 was a kit build or assembled, it was calibrated with the original configuration file kept by elecraft. Using the utility, download this configuration to the KX3. Wait a minute or two so the circuit is warmed up. You may very likely find that it's properly calibrated. Save the current configuration of your KX3. If you don't feel this exercise was helpful, you can return your KX3 to the way you had it. Otherwise, you will have to go through the menu and establish any settings that are different from the original factory state. I don't know if the XG3 signal source sold by Elecraft (and back ordered despite the "Estimated Ship Date" is suitable for calibration but unless you are really picky or doing something exotic - I feel the calibration procedure is unnecessary. I installed the 2M VHF module and went through this question --- I ultimately concluded that restoring the factory calibration is probably the best option. After the 2M option was installed I compared transmit and receive to other VHF radios in a variety of ambient temperatures and case temperatures and it was exactly right. Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Mag loops and KX3 tuning
Do not use the KX3 tuner when using a mag loop. Set the tuner to bypass. A mag loop is the tuner. In order to gain resonance, adjust the mag loop's capacitor to hear maximum noise at the frequency you want to start working. Mag loops are high Q, resonant in a very narrow range of frequencies. That said, once it's resonant, tune around or use the PX3 to see other stations. However, before transmitting, repeat the tune for noise procedure. Also, if you shift receive frequency in the band, you will find that the capacitor needs to move just the very smallest amount to gain resonance, as indicated by highest noise. You will find the "tune for noise" procedure in any mag loop manual. I have reached eastern Europe from eastern Massachusetts with a KX3 and an Alex loop, while indoors in a wood frame building. If you use a conventional antenna tuner, such as the one in the KX3 with a mag loop, it just won't work. Geoff W1GCF -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2023 3:47 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 226, Issue 3 Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to elecraft@mailman.qth.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net You can reach the person managing the list at elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: No stations being heard on K3 (DC) 2. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (Lee Hiers) 3. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (Walter Underwood) 4. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (Mike Dodd) 5. Re: No stations being heard on K3 (Gary K9GS) 6. Re: Elecraft 80M SSB Net Report (Dave New, N8SBE) 7. Re: No stations being heard on K3 (David Hachadorian) 8. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (K9ZTV) 9. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (Jim Brown) 10. Elmers, not proofreaders (Walter Underwood) 11. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (JEROME SODUS) 12. Re: KX3 manual page 14 regardincg "TUNE". (David Gilbert) 13. A few words about the CP1 bidirectional coupler kit (John Harper) 14. FS: KX2, KXPA-100, Begali Adventure key (Ron KF7ZN) 15. Re: FS: KX2, KXPA-100, Begali Adventure key (Rich WC3T) 16. Re: A few words about the CP1 bidirectional coupler kit (John Oppenheimer) 17. I'm So Glad... (Lee Hiers) 18. Re: KX2, KXPA-100, Begali Adventure key (Ron KF7ZN) 19. Re: [Elecraft-KX] Peter Martinez And The CW-To-PSK31 Feature (Tony) 20. Re: [Elecraft-KX] Peter Martinez And The CW-To-PSK31 Feature (Wayne Burdick) 21. Re: [Elecraft-KX] Peter Martinez And The CW-To-PSK31 Feature (Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2023 08:34:22 -0800 From: DC To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] No stations being heard on K3 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed I have had similar problems a couple of times over the years and it was the coax connectors on the synthesizer board.? Simply unplugging them and re-installing them fixed the problem.? However, the last time I also put a small amount of Deoxit on the connector. Richard, K6VV On 2/6/2023 8:19 AM, Gary K9GS wrote: > I checked several things this morning.?1. RX antenna is NOT selected.2.? RF gain is not turned down.3.? I swapped to antenna 2 port on the radio and switched to antenna 2. Same behavior as before.4.? I connected my antenna analyzer to the coax coming out of the back of the radio. All readings look normal.I inspected all of the connectors.? All look good.? The coax is RG8X from DX Engineering with crimped and soldered DX Engineering connectors.? ?No physical damage to the cable that I could see.? I inspected the whole length.5.? I answered a FT8 CQ. Received an immediate reply with +11 report. Several RBN spots of my signal.6.? I am hearing some signals on 14074 but they are weak and not showing much of a signal on the P3.7.? When I switch to the unused antenna 2 port I hear nothing...just like I should.8.? The receiver sounds exactly like and performs like the attenuator is turned on;? it is NOT, however.?9.? Listened on other bands which should be filled with signals this time of daysame as on 20m.I'm stumped and suspect something opened up.? I don't recall making any configuration changes to the radio.? Maybe something loose inside like a TMP connection??Any ideas what additional to check?73,Gary K9GS > Original message From: Jim Brown Date: 2/6/23 3:41 AM (GMT-05:00)
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 225, Issue 9
Correction - could be 3R3 - that's an inductor. W1GCF Geoff -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2023 12:42 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 225, Issue 9 Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to elecraft@mailman.qth.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net You can reach the person managing the list at elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Fred Jensen) 2. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Rich WC3T) 3. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Chris Waldrup) 4. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Dave New) 5. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Dave New) 6. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New) 7. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Geert Jan de Groot) 8. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Andrew Moore) 9. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rick NK7I) 10. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New, N8SBE) 11. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Lee Hiers) 12. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rich WC3T) 13. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New, N8SBE) 14. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rich WC3T) 15. Y-Box For Sale (Dave) 16. Re: Keying the K3s (Jim McCook) 17. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Sam Carson) 18. Re: Keying the K3s (Lee Hiers) 19. Re: Keying the K3s (Jim McCook) 20. Re: Keying the K3s (Lee Hiers) 21. Re: Keying the K3s (Rick Bates, NK7I) 22. Re: Keying the K3s (Brian Hunt) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2023 13:40:11 -0800 From: Fred Jensen To: Dennis W1UE Cc: Reflector Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3- Part fell out! Message-ID: <5fb4c25a-33c7-eb08-cdd6-30770aefc...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Does the radio still work?? If I find loose parts but the radio still works, I consider them to be spare parts. ?? Seriously, does it appear to be electronic in nature ... i.e. does it have terminals or solder points? 73, Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW Sparks NV DM09dn Washoe County Dennis W1UE wrote on 1/23/2023 1:21 PM: > I dropped d a lock washer into the bowels of my K3 today, so had to invert > the unit to get the washer out of the unit. When I did so, the washer fell > out of the unit, but so did another component. Its a small rectangular > part, white on one side and blackish on the other, and either "3K3" or > "3R3" is stamped on it. I don't know where the part came from, or where it > should go back' I'm just sure it doesn't belong sitting on my bookshelf > rather than be in the radio. > > Can anyone maybe help me find where it should be going? I know its not an > easy > thing to diagnose, but any suggestions on where it should go before I try > taking > the radio apart again. > > Dennis w1UE > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home:http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help:http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post:mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by:http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list:http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered tok6dg...@gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2023 16:41:39 -0500 From: Rich WC3T To: Dennis W1UE Cc: Reflector Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3- Part fell out! Message-ID: <06bb612c-3aca-4fab-97a5-c6996474e...@wc3t.us> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 My totally uneducated guess is that it?s a surface mount capacitor. I did an image search and found what resembles you have. That?s all I can offer. Good luck. 72, Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737 / SOC #1221 Grid: FN20is Bureaucracy is always in search of self-preservation. ? AA7BQ > On Jan 23, 2023, at 16:23, Dennis W1UE wrote: > > ?I dropped d a lock washer into the bowels of my K3 today, so had to invert > the unit to get the washer out of the unit. When I did so, the washer fell > out of the unit, but so did another component. Its a small rectangular > part, white on one side and blackish on the other, and either "3K3" or > "3R3" is stamped on it. I don't know where the part came from, or where it > should go back' I'm just sure it doesn't belong sitting on my bookshelf > rather than be in the radio. > > Can anyone maybe help me find where it should be going? I know its not an > easy > thing to diagnose, but any suggestions on where it should go before I try > taking > the radio apart
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 225, Issue 9
There are very few reasons to have 3.3 Ohm resistor anywhere. It's much more likely to have a 3.3 K Ohm resistor. This it is likely labeled 3K3 not 3R3. There is a saying that if you hear hoof beats, think horses not zebras. Going with horses, you are looking in the schematics for a 3.3 K ohm resistor. One you find it (them, there may well be more than one), they will be designated as on a board and a number for that board, eg: R120 or something like that. Find those 3.3 K ohm resistors on the various boards (with board layouts) - missing? There you go. Since you report that the unit seems to be working for the things you do, it's possibly in a more obscure area of the circuitry. However I wouldn't be taking the thing apart for that, just look where you can. It's very possible that at some point someone just dropped a part in there. You didn't mention if you are the original owner. One aspect of "MARS Mod" on various transceivers is the removal of a resistor. Maybe someone had an oopsie ( I don't know if K3 require's this sort of mod, but - who knows? Also someone could have just dropped one into it by accident. So - don't take the thing apart in your quest unless you know what you are doing. W1GCF Geoff -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2023 12:42 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 225, Issue 9 Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to elecraft@mailman.qth.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net You can reach the person managing the list at elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Fred Jensen) 2. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Rich WC3T) 3. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Chris Waldrup) 4. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Dave New) 5. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Dave New) 6. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New) 7. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Geert Jan de Groot) 8. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Andrew Moore) 9. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rick NK7I) 10. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New, N8SBE) 11. Re: K3- Part fell out! (Lee Hiers) 12. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rich WC3T) 13. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Dave New, N8SBE) 14. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Rich WC3T) 15. Y-Box For Sale (Dave) 16. Re: Keying the K3s (Jim McCook) 17. Re: arrl.net domain is being blocked! (Sam Carson) 18. Re: Keying the K3s (Lee Hiers) 19. Re: Keying the K3s (Jim McCook) 20. Re: Keying the K3s (Lee Hiers) 21. Re: Keying the K3s (Rick Bates, NK7I) 22. Re: Keying the K3s (Brian Hunt) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2023 13:40:11 -0800 From: Fred Jensen To: Dennis W1UE Cc: Reflector Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3- Part fell out! Message-ID: <5fb4c25a-33c7-eb08-cdd6-30770aefc...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Does the radio still work?? If I find loose parts but the radio still works, I consider them to be spare parts. ?? Seriously, does it appear to be electronic in nature ... i.e. does it have terminals or solder points? 73, Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW Sparks NV DM09dn Washoe County Dennis W1UE wrote on 1/23/2023 1:21 PM: > I dropped d a lock washer into the bowels of my K3 today, so had to invert > the unit to get the washer out of the unit. When I did so, the washer fell > out of the unit, but so did another component. Its a small rectangular > part, white on one side and blackish on the other, and either "3K3" or > "3R3" is stamped on it. I don't know where the part came from, or where it > should go back' I'm just sure it doesn't belong sitting on my bookshelf > rather than be in the radio. > > Can anyone maybe help me find where it should be going? I know its not an > easy > thing to diagnose, but any suggestions on where it should go before I try > taking > the radio apart again. > > Dennis w1UE > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home:http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help:http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post:mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by:http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list:http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered tok6dg...@gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2023 16:41:39 -0500 From: Rich WC3T To: Dennis W1UE Cc: Reflector
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)
Magloops with effective remote tuning are very pricey but those are not (as far as I know) automatic tuning, just remote) With a tiny bit of practice, it’s not hard to do manually. I give it almost no thought. To simply have a mag loop go to the perfect spot of resonance in response to instructions from the radio would be difficult if not impractical. The key thing here is that it’s not a problem (for low power) to have the mag loop close to you nor is it hard to adjust it (as I described) to be perfectly resonant to the radio. However, Julia is right. You can have the KX3 report its frequency (and everything else) through the ACC1 port. Similarly the KX3 can be controlled by this magic box (to transmit a bit) Getting a mag loop with its very high Q to perfectly tune to that frequency would be interesting. When you see how tiny the changes to the Variable Cap are – you might perceive the problem. Are there effective auto-tuning magloops that work as perfectly as hand tuning for low power levels? I’d like to know. I also think that complexity can get in the way of portability. The beauty of the mag loop I have (alex loop) is that it’s light weight, quick to set up and take down. Adding complexity would change all that. At that point, I would use the kxpa100 with its tuner. (possibly even cheaper) W1GCF Geoff From: Julia Tuttle [mailto:ju...@juliatuttle.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2022 12:53 PM To: jerry Cc: Geoffrey Feldman; Elecraft; JEROME SODUS Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop) Hi Jerry, That's absolutely possible over the serial port (ACC1)! The Programmer's Reference has the details: https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/K3S <https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/K3S%20Pgmrs%20Ref,%20G5.pdf> %20Pgmrs%20Ref,%20G5.pdf 73, Julie On Wed, Aug 24, 2022, 12:49 jerry wrote: I'm starting work on a magloop project. I wonder how hard it would be to have a transceiver tell the magloop what frequency it's tuned to? That could operationally be simpler than having to hit it with low-power RF so it can tune itself... - Jerry, KF6VB On 2022-08-23 14:28, Geoffrey Feldman wrote: > If your antenna is a magloop - DO NOT USE the tune button. In fact, > clear > the tuner memory for your band per instructions. The tuner feature > (assuming you have the option) is great with other antennas, especially > random wire but it doesn't go well with mag loops. The xmit button is > simply "PTT". > > > > For any mag loop, choose a frequency you wish to start work, somewhere > in > the middle of the band. Mag Loops are high Q antennas, that is they > are > effective in a very narrow range of frequencies to which they are > adjusted > with the tuning box. This fact should inform your thoughts on > effective > use. > > Turn the tuning dial (ON THE MAG LOOP) until you hear the maximum > amount of > noise (or blessed with a real signal). The antenna and the radio are > now > tuned. > > Turn the KX3 tuning knob SLOWLY until you hear some kind of interesting > signal. (PX3 is great for this too). > > Tweak the tuning knob on the mag loop to get the strongest signal for > your > exact frequency. (just a tweak). This is important even if you hear > the > signal, to get the most efficient use of transmitter. > > If while seeking a station you hear a lot less static, adjust the mag > loop > as above. > > > > IF seeking up and down the band, just rinse and repeat as above until > you > get a station to work. > > > > Once the mag loop is tuned to the band, you won't have to adjust it > much to > tune it for the particular part of the band you are on. Gentle tweaks > is the > way. Notice too, mag loops are very directional. Consult the > manufacturing > manual for where it's sensitive and turn it along a great circle to > where > you want to go. (In Boston, where I live, Europe is north east by > great > circle. > > > > I note there is something about tuning the radio in some mag loop > instructions. I find this not necessary with the KX3. What I describe > here > is what I do and it works well. > > > > I have contacted Europe USB with a KX3 at 15 watts and a mag loop. The > antenna was on the top floor of my wood frame town house for this, not > even > outdoors. If you think about what I wrote, you want the antenna in > arm's > length while working the radio. Don't worry about your body affecting > the > near field. Mag Loops are not like that. > > > > -73- > > W1GCF > > Geoff > > __
[Elecraft] KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)
If your antenna is a magloop - DO NOT USE the tune button. In fact, clear the tuner memory for your band per instructions. The tuner feature (assuming you have the option) is great with other antennas, especially random wire but it doesn't go well with mag loops. The xmit button is simply "PTT". For any mag loop, choose a frequency you wish to start work, somewhere in the middle of the band. Mag Loops are high Q antennas, that is they are effective in a very narrow range of frequencies to which they are adjusted with the tuning box. This fact should inform your thoughts on effective use. Turn the tuning dial (ON THE MAG LOOP) until you hear the maximum amount of noise (or blessed with a real signal). The antenna and the radio are now tuned. Turn the KX3 tuning knob SLOWLY until you hear some kind of interesting signal. (PX3 is great for this too). Tweak the tuning knob on the mag loop to get the strongest signal for your exact frequency. (just a tweak). This is important even if you hear the signal, to get the most efficient use of transmitter. If while seeking a station you hear a lot less static, adjust the mag loop as above. IF seeking up and down the band, just rinse and repeat as above until you get a station to work. Once the mag loop is tuned to the band, you won't have to adjust it much to tune it for the particular part of the band you are on. Gentle tweaks is the way. Notice too, mag loops are very directional. Consult the manufacturing manual for where it's sensitive and turn it along a great circle to where you want to go. (In Boston, where I live, Europe is north east by great circle. I note there is something about tuning the radio in some mag loop instructions. I find this not necessary with the KX3. What I describe here is what I do and it works well. I have contacted Europe USB with a KX3 at 15 watts and a mag loop. The antenna was on the top floor of my wood frame town house for this, not even outdoors. If you think about what I wrote, you want the antenna in arm's length while working the radio. Don't worry about your body affecting the near field. Mag Loops are not like that. -73- W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems
These is nothing unique about the Elecraft serial cable except possibly the radio side connector. Basically it's a USB to RS232 Ground/transmit/Receive cable. Anyone who understands USB com ports can help you. They don't need to know radio. They should understand what I wrote here. For USB COM port problems (with anything, including these). Run DEVMGR (I do this by entering that in the search bar) In Devmgr "View" menu , click / check "Show Hidden Devices" Look in the list for "Ports(COM & LPT) Expand that to the sub list You will see a list of ports there in the sub list. Some are grayed out, those are not connected. Plug in your Elecraft serial cable. Is there a change? You should see a grayed out one now dark (enabled) (as COM 1 is) That is the number of the Elecraft port. OR ... a new one just appears. This sometimes happens. That is the new number of the Elecraft port. (This is a likely outcome). Make a note of anything in devmgr list, this may help Elecraft help you but I expect you will have figured it out with the above steps. If this does not work, try other USB ports on your computer with the above procedure. If this does not work, try the Elecraft cable on a friends computer (the driver for Elecraft is pretty standard you don't need the radio to check the cable). If this does not work, you need a Elecraft serial cable. You can also look in the cable and make one. There are USB to RS232 cables you can change the connector to match the cable description in the manual. Others available may have the same connector but TX and RX are reversed. Some are already the same as elecraft. W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Really works and made me happy
I made a confirmed contact 1:52Z April 15 with LZ2A0 in northeastern Bulgaria 4607 miles from my QTH using my KX3, a Bioenno battery, and an Alexloop antenna. All this inside my house in Lowell MA USA, not even by a window. The contact was so good we had a brief conversation about my rig and QTH. It was a lot of fun. I just thought having a whole heck of a lot of fun with my radio would be a unique posting to this list. W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Option advice wanted.
The really short answer is "all of them" and even more so if you are buying it factory assembled and tested. This is such a versatile rig, you will find something to do with every option. I got mine fully loaded except for the 2M transverter. The reason I didn't was that I already had an HT at double the transmit power of that. The reason I regret it is that it would be nice to have that capability in the same compact package. Also, CW on 2M is legal and possible with that board and not the HT. Didn't think of that and wish I did. If you are on a budget the other short answer is, what do you want to do with your limited funds? OK buy those things not the other ones. You will regret that choice at least somewhat. When you add it all up, you will see that once you made the basic plunge of a KX3, why not a bit more? Another shorter answer is that fully loaded might take longer. OTOH, all that money you will have spent can collect interest in a certificate of deposit while you wait. J You didn't ask but I recommend a light in weight, 20W or less mag loop such as the alex loop. You will be amazed how easy it is to carry the KX3 with that and a 3AH hour bioenno battery Setup of everything (with PX3 and the antenna ) is about 5 minutes with a little practice. The loop needs only be a few feet above the ground and not counterpoise. This is really fantastic. I have even made contacts with this set up in the loft of my wood framed townhouse condo. You will likely want the Side KX to protect your rig while travelling. A soft bag like the Elecraft large bag is perfectly safe with the SideKX. -73- W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft is so awesome all we got is RPN to talk about
I love RPN calculators and even better faithful emulation of them. Those of us who like to compare their favorite smart phone apps for a 50 year old calculator architecture area fellowship of wise and good people. Love it. What is even better is the obvious lack of issues with Elecraft products leading to fun tangential discussions. Do we have any RPN programs of use in field tweaking antennas, working out great circle problems etc. etc. ? there are some nice ones out there. That said, Mighty Mouse or Micky Mouse? I'm with Mighty. Isotope Feeny or Tom Terrific? I'm with Isotope all the way. -73- W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] RPN Calc App For Android
I almost hesitate to weigh in since so many others have. The HP41 app is actually an emulator which runs the actual firmware from the original calculator. If you have HP41 programs you like and don't feel like porting them, this is the best going. However, I like "Free42" which is a complete but accurate rewrite of the HP42 calculator. It's available on windows and android. It also features 128 bit calculation, including the PI Constant. If you want an actual calculator that you can hold in your hand and (in some cases) is a pretty faithful reproduction of the HP calculator, I recommend checking out "Swissmicros.com". They have other RPN calculators there too. Oh the infrared on their products actually works with a real HP printer. 73 W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Regarding KX3 power
Understand you don't want an amplifier, go QRP. Nothing wrong with the switcher or with the Pro Audio. What I am happy with is the BioEnno is the BioEnno 123AH battery. It's small enough to fit into the "shack in the pack" or something similar in size. LiFePo batteries such as this one can take thousands of charges and also stay above 12 volts for almost the entire discharge cycle. The KX3 will run at 15 watts out for quite some time with the above mentioned unit. This brings me to its charger. The connector for the bioenno charger to the battery is the same as the power input for the KX3. It's perfectly adequate as a power supply. People argue about the special spiffiness of the Pro Audio. But I can't find an operationally noticeable difference. Obviously the BioEnno battery has no switching noise at all. I don't recommend pro-audio for charging the BioEnno as the approved charger cuts back voltage as the battery tops off and the ProAudio does not. So if the BioEnno appeals, you really have to get the correct charger for it. If you still need you need another power supply, make your personal choice there. All options mentioned are OK for something. This is what I use when portable and how I charge both the KX3 internal battery and the BioEnno when I get back home (but not at the same time, or I haven't tried that) Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX-3 won't turn on with batteries
Send a picture of the batteries installed. With regard to the charging the Eneloop's, they come fully charged and thus setting up to charge them might deliver an error. One other possibility, what is the minimum operating voltage (Bat min) in the menu is set to? Try something like 9v. With an external supply, using the display function and find out what the unit thinks the battery voltage is (BT). Does the Real time clock work, not set but present and counting? That's part of the charger board. If that's not there, that points to the board. All these different battery tries suggest to me that despite your care about polarity, you could be wrong in some way. Or the unlikely possibility that the unit is defective. However, the above checks will help to understand what is happening. Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] SDR Technology
Hi Walter, In response to your comments on my post, the terminology you use and that I used both appear in various texts to describe the same thing. Not surprising, we both know what one another mean. I prefer incident because quadrature is in relationship to that. An AM signal would appear on the incident stream. Quadrature then is necessary for most (all) of the other modulation schemes. In software the in-phase or incident stream appears as the real part of the complex number. That fits with the idea of incident for me. Tomato tomatoe. Actually I meant direct conversion. I was referring broadly to SDR but thinking of the KX3 which I own and not the K4 which I am less familiar with. I'll have to look at the K4 more carefully but it sounds like its architecture is what I called Hybrid. That would make sense given its price point and less portable size along with better performance. Would you then consider the Yaesu FTDX-101D as more similar to your understanding of the K4 architecture (excepting the yaesu rather goofy interface, in my personal opinion). I expect it's not exactly the same but how would you compare them from an SDR perspective? Getting from RF to base band and back to RF is relatively straight forward. The interesting stuff IMHO is Fast Fourier, Filters and other fun software stuff. In responding to a list serve, we are writing off the cuff. If one understands the other and then has useful discussion, it's good for me. I will look over the books I have and review using whatever the more common and clear terminology is. I'm by no means an expert and I am learning myself. My primary interest is in system architectures. My interests go beyond Elecraft. I seek a taxonomy of SDR implementations which might be helpful in comparing products or understanding innovations. Thanks for the link. I was aware of that among other sources. Here is one that I have found helpful: Practical Signal Processing by Mark Owen. I am sure you know this link: https://greatscottgadgets.com/sdr/ He mentions Owen's book as well. This is also quite good with a discussion of the Tayloe mixer/detector (again two used terms). https://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/020708qex013.pdf Here is a discussion of Tayloe that I think is helpful http://www.norcalqrp.org/files/Tayloe_mixer_x3a.pdf As for history, if you look at John Renshaw Carson's original paper on SSB you will see the concepts of IQ in his calculus. Here is Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single-sideband_modulation Fun fact, there is a picture of Einstein, Sarnoff, Steinmetz and others with someone often falsely claimed to be Tesla. It isn't. It's Carson. Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] SDR Filter improvement
My career has been in software/hardware systems including some with signal processing. Digital filters ultimately embody mathematical equations which operate on a matrix of samples represented as complex numbers. IQ stands for incident and quadrature, sine and cosine, real and imaginary or x and y. All are the same concept but different nomenclature as represented in memory. Connect to the IQ out of your Elecraft rig you are getting that stream as left and right base band audio. A sound card and a bit of software will convert that base band left and right to the numerical representations. From there you can implement whatever is actually possible in this technology as a software experiment on your own PC. Create your own SDR Radio using the Elecraft hardware and experiment with filters, create your own pan adapter or whatever. If successful you will have a prototype to share with Elecraft. What is more likely is that you will more fully appreciate the value you receive from Elecraft and all the hard work they did. It's not easy to improve on. Signal Processing ALWAYS involves some fairly hairy math and hairier software to implement it correctly as a real time experience. The filter you want may be one that actually can be implemented. Direct Conversion SDR is a great technology to reduce cost and/or size in relationship to a similarly good receiver. However, it has limitations which relate to artifacts from the sampling process and dividing a continuous stream of audio into "bins" or snapshots in the stream. Analog filters in the IF stage is still a factor in design and you will see hybrid SDR as an alternative to direct conversion designs. Similarly even in direct conversion, there are some RF pre-filters. This last bit, is argumentative and wise persons will differ. It's the same discussion as tubes/transistors or vinyl/cd's etc. in the audiophile world. A lot comes down to perception and how we personally discriminate what we hear, want to hear, don't want to hear. Additionally there is processing (digital or analog) of received audio, changing frequency response as an aid to this perception process. The Heil PRAS is a great example of that sort of processing. He has a terrific demo of that. Finally people with traditional hardware training find themselves at the deep end of the pool with all this talk of matrices of complex numbers. People with software training find themselves at the deep end of the pool with the pragmatics of actually getting RF into their world of 1's and 0's. It's fun to watch them trying to get along in a state of panic while in the deep end of the pool. Again, hats off to Elecraft for helping them all to swim and catch great products. Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Generic words on temperature
My rule of thumb is that if you can keep your finger on it for a second or so without pain, it's not too hot. The ambient temperature is really not the issue as much as whether heat is carried off. I know it's hot in the pacific northwest but I think you can still enjoy your gear. The larger issue is RFI from air conditioners. The environmental consideration many people neglect is atmospheric pressure. As altitude increases, there is less air to carry the heat away. People sometimes install fans with an idea to sucking out the heat. This is actually wrong. The fan should blow ambient air in and the venting for it to get out should intend that pressure inside the case be a bit higher than the ambient pressure. More molecules against the hot part, the better. If you read the fine print on electronic specifications you will often (and should always) see an atmospheric spec with the heat spec. All the above is just rule-of-thumb of course. There is a lot more to cooling electronics than the above but I think these are worth considering. Elecraft gear is pretty good at protecting itself as well. If your radio cuts out, it's doing its job of living for more fun later. W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Are there any "bad radios"?
Having worked retailing amateur radios, people often ask which is best. Also often they are absolutely convinced they know the answer because their Elmer said so. When I review what someone actually wants to do with the hobby and get a sense of their budget, I can advise them. A new Ham often hasn't a clear idea what they want to do. Knowing most of what is available, there are no truly "bad radios" that would be unsuited for anyone at all. Not everyone can afford "the best". Not everyone can use the best. New operators may not even be able to manage a ton of fancier features. New Hams may not know there is more to the hobby than whatever their Elmer has locked on to (20+ years ago). Life in an HOA or a city with much RFI directs from most expensive and top of the line towards something portable. The visibility provided by a Pan Adapter function is especially important. Personally I have a KX3, PX3, KXPA100. I also own an IC 7300. My recommendations at work would tend to what I can sell of course. If someone knows what they want, they buy it. I find too that upselling the radio is not productive either. Once someone has a radio they will need antennas, feed lines, maybe a tuner, wire, rope, books, power poles, antenna analyzer - all that stuff is the really great stuff J Also, if someone gets a lot of books, they will learn other aspects of the hobby and get another radio and the cycle repeats. Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Absurd remarks about FCC and ARRL notices.
The letters to this list regarding FCC and ARRL notices were factually false and have absolutely nothing to do with Elecraft products except perhaps as some might choose to use such radio transmitting products to commit unjustified criminal acts. Those who have false pride in their comments can read what I write here and readily determine their factual mistakes for themselves. The reason for the FCC and ARRL Notices is factually not because of the next administration but the present one which incited a riot. IN THAT CRIMINAL OFFENSE, Radios were used unlawfully to commit Federal offenses against democracy and the Constitution. I also see the FCC notice as one asking civilians to report criminal use of Amateur and other civilian communications gear - This I will do as well as working with other law abiding hams to find, locate and document criminal use, especially against the Constitution and US Government. The reason why Washington D.C. is an armed camp is that on 1/6 We had a president incite insurrection. That President is the only one with two impeachments, both of which are more legally substantive than the two which preceded them. Those persons criminally acted to disrupt lawful congressional preceding. Many claim to have done this on behalf of the current President, failing to understand nobody is above the law and any apparent direction to violate the constitution is illegal no matter the source. That entire event was unprecedented in the USA and the responses are and will be as well. The election was not fraudulent. It was certified in each of the states, in most cases by Republican elected authorities. Over 60 cases whose lawyers claimed fraud, were thrown out by Federal judges, many of whom appointed by the current President. In several cases these judges noted there was no evidence at all and in the rest, no evidence that would show a change in the end result for that state. The Supreme Court also spoke on this matter - against the Presidents false claims. There are over 60 case transcripts, public oral opinions by the judges and supreme court, as well as the remarks of AG Barr who quit in disgust with his own administration. Frankly to blame the next administration for the FCC and ARRL notice is idiotic - they are not in power yet. That assault on the Capitol was unprecedented and THAT is what has led to the other unprecedented things. The reason is that under our constitution, nobody is above the law, including the President and those who stormed the capitol. Acting to enforce the law should not be offensive to anyone who claims to be a patriot or writing in the traditions of Amateur Radio or the ARRL. Interesting to know the false sympathies of some of you though. I encourage you to spend the reasonable efforts of citizens to go and learn what you didn't. Geoffrey Feldman W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX2 External battery question:
No - the KXBC2 is not suitable for the Bioenno BLF-1203W, you should use the charger sold by Bioenno for this purpose. Bioenno products are LiFePo, a different kind of LiOn Chemistry than the Elecraft ones. The Bioenno charger will work for all the higher AH batteries they sell that have the DC Barrel connector. (I think that's up to 12AH). That Bioenno charger provides 15V 2A until the battery voltage reaches a certain level and then to a trickle charge level of .2A. I highly recommend 12AH battery for QRP use as well as field charging an HT. They are pricey to start but they provide 12V or better for the entire AH rating and are intended for 1000 or more full charge/discharge cycles. The life cycle cost is therefore lower than other batteries. I get a full 15W from my KX3 with the 12AH3. -73- W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Smoke Detectors
Radio waves are non-Ionizing. I hope we all know that and know one another know that. However the near field is an electrical field. The smoke detector compares the ionization between two chambers, both with the same radioactive source. One is exposed to the environment (smoke) and the other is not while both have the same radioactive source. An imbalance in the two chambers indicates smoke impeding ionizing radiation. It is triggered by a very small amount of smoke, barely visible to the eye. The means of detection is electronic and can be affected by a strong near field. Most of the smoke detectors I know of here in the US are the ion type. It may also be that other electronics in the detector are affected by the near field. That would be another theory but I think that affecting the detector itself is more likely. -73- W1GCF Geoff __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Smoke detectors
The reason to keep smoke detectors from Amateur Radios is that they detect smoke by ionization from a radioactive source. A strong near field will set them off. The good news is that this is your indication that all is not right at the feed line (Or the antenna is unhealthy close). I have had this experience myself, fixed the feed line and the issue went away. That was with 100w on 80 meters. Unlike real smoke, the detector will stop complaining when the transmission stops. -73- Geoff W1GCF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
