[Elecraft] OT - looking for Ten Tec TP-41 Enclosure

2015-03-17 Thread Jim's Desktop
Shot in the dark, but I'm in need of an unused Ten Tec TP-41 enclosure 
for a receiver project I'm working on.  If anyone has one they'll part 
with, (I don't care if it's scratched up, just no holes drilled in it) 
please email me direct with your asking price.


Thanks,

Jim - W0EB





Memo to NSA, DHS, FBI, CIA, DIA, DEA, ATF, KGB, MI5, and any other 
alphabet soup agencies that might be listening/reading/tracking my email 
content,  I share this computer with an old lady, an ex-con, a priest, a 
used car salesman, a military veteran, a pacifist, a vegetarian, a 
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cat...so any data you collect from me will be meaningless, random and 
therefore useless...good luck.

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Re: [Elecraft] [Bulk] OT: Verizon's response to Net Neutrality: in Morse code!!

2015-02-27 Thread Jim's Desktop
AMEN!  Also, Eric closed this thread at 6:30 or so California time.  
Obviously a lot of you don't bother to read his posts.


-- Original Message --
From: "Colin Thomas" 
To:
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2/27/2015 9:30:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [Bulk] OT: Verizon's response to Net Neutrality: 
in Morse code!!



Guys,

Give it a break. I joined this reflector to learn about Elecraft
products, not the state of the US Internet Service Providers problems!

You do have subscribers from outside of the U.S.

73

Colin, G3PSM



On 27 February 2015 at 15:13, Phil Hystad  wrote:

 Well, I certainly will never fly on an airplane where the airwaves 
are

 controlled
 individually by each airline. Where big airlines hog the airwaves and
 then own
 you. Not only that, it would be very dangerous don't you think. Nice 
to

 have
 a separate Federal government organization operating all the regional
 control
 centers.


 > On Feb 26, 2015, at 11:21 PM, Kenneth Talbott 


 wrote:
 >
 > The only ones who will end up with what they want are members of 
your

 out of
 > control nannycrat government. Free enterprise seems to always find 
a

 way to
 > resolve disputes - unless Washington gets involved then everyone 
loses -

 > FOREVER. Remember:
 > No man's life, liberty, or property is safe while the legislature 
is

 in
 > session. -- Mark Twain (1866)
 > Ken - ke4rg
 > -Original Message-
 > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf 
Of

 Cliff
 > Frescura
 > Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 12:06 AM
 > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [Bulk] OT: Verizon's response to Net 
Neutrality:

 in
 > Morse code!!
 > *Netflix* got what they wanted. They had better lobbyists and took 
a

 > dispute between them and Comcast, expanded the scope to include the
 entire
 > internet
 >
 > __
 > Elecraft mailing list
 > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 >
 > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
 > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
 > Message delivered to phys...@mac.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500: birdies on 6m from LCD backlight

2015-02-26 Thread Jim's Desktop
I have a few birdies on 6, but after reading your post Jim, I checked 
them out against the KPA500 and so far I can't find any that I can 
attribute to the amplifier.  I marked down all the ones I could hear 
with the amplifier on and the LCD as bright as it will go.  I then shut 
the amp off and just to be sure, I disconnected power from it 
completely.  All the birdies originally noted were still there and none 
changed when I turned the amp back on.


I'd check all the cabling connections internal and external to the amp 
and see if you don't have one that's not completely seated causing a 
"Pin-1" problem.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Phil Wheeler" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2/26/2015 2:33:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500: birdies on 6m from LCD backlight

No such problem here, at all, Jim. I wonder if you have a cabling 
issue?


Phil W7OX

On 2/26/15 11:47 AM, Joe Hall wrote:
Just got a KPA500 kit a couple of weeks ago (S/N 2380). Upon 
installing it
in my system I immediately noticed sharp spikes about every 9.5 kHz 
(only on

6m) in my panadapter. These spikes are "audible" on my K3 and appear
whenever the KPA500 is on, whether in standby or operate. Nothing at 
all

noted on any band other than 6m.

A google search of the mailing list archives revealed a couple 
mentions of
the KPA500's LCD backlight. So, I went in and adjusted the LCD 
brightness.
Dropping the brightness to "DAY" (which seems to turn the backlight 
totally
off) completely clears up the spikes on 6m, any setting other than 
"DAY" and
it's there - I can switch back and forth and watch the spikes appear 
and

disappear.

My email to elecraft support resulted in a response of "turn off the
backlight." With no backlight the KPA500 display is unreadable in my 
shack.


This is a relatively minor issue for me given that I rarely operate on 
6m,
but I'm anal enough that I'd prefer to solve rather than accommodate 
the

problem.

Anyone else seen this and/or have any ideas about how to deal with it, 
other

than turning off the backlight?

Thanks,
Joe / WB1M



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Re: [Elecraft] Latest K3 firmware release (5.13) restores DUAL PB CW function

2015-02-26 Thread Jim's Desktop
Also not mentioned in the release notes - the ability to actually assign 
"LINK" to PF1 or PF2 by selecting the menu item and then holding the PF1 
or PF2 button for a couple seconds now actually works as well.  Just 
tested it.


Jim - W0EB



On 26/02/2015 11:50, Wayne Burdick wrote:

K3 beta firmware rev. 5.13 is now available on our K3 software page.

We neglected to mention in the release notes that the original "DUAL 
PB" CW function has been added back in.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading to the new Syn Card -- is there a noticable change?

2015-02-24 Thread Jim's Desktop

Pete and other interested parties,
IMO, yes, it was worth it, but as previously stated by others, it 
depends on what your operating style/habits are.  If you are a casual CW 
operator and don't really use QSK, you may never notice the changes as 
they are really subtle to most ears.  Most noticeable to me, the 
switching transitions from RX to TX and back are much cleaner and enough 
faster that normal QSK without turning QSK mode on will allow you to 
hear smoothly between dots at 45-50 wpm.  Also it's fast enough that the 
internal keyer's CW weighting sounds like it should rather than having 
to weight it heavier.  I mainly use a bug these days, but the 
transitions are smooth enough that the harsh switching has been toned 
down to the point the sidetone sounds very nice and It is so smooth and 
fast that while I'm sending (at least up to 30 wpm - haven't tried it 
faster yet) it sounds like the RX never shuts off.  With the old 
synthesizer(s) (I have both receivers) there was a very small hesitation 
between key down and key up before the RX came back to life.  I do not 
notice that anymore though physically it has to still be there.  The 
much faster switching time makes it more pleasant to someone like me who 
has used mostly CW and QSK for my whole 50+ years in ham radio.  It's 
almost like having separate transmitters and receivers linked to the 
same VFO, using separate antennas and no receiver muting, only RF 
overload protection.  (Only way I know to explain it).  Your mileage 
will certainly vary.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Peter Chamalian W1RM" 
To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
Sent: 2/24/2015 8:00:24 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Upgrading to the new Syn Card -- is there a 
noticable change?


I'd like to hear from CW operators who have upgraded to the new 
synthesizer
boards. Is there a material/noticeable change in the K3 performance? Do 
you

think the upgrade was worth it?





Pete, W1RM



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Re: [Elecraft] Power output changed in K3

2015-02-22 Thread Jim's Desktop
 There's are 3 calibration levels in the Utility.  50Watt, 5 Watt and 1 
milliwatt.  Do all 3 of them and you should have it covered.


 Jim - W0EB






Memo to NSA, DHS, FBI, CIA, DIA, DEA, ATF, KGB, MI5, and any other 
alphabet soup agencies that might be listening/reading/tracking my email 
content,  I share this computer with an old lady, an ex-con, a priest, a 
used car salesman, a military veteran, a pacifist, a vegetarian, a 
hunter, a circus midget, a local politician, a doberman and a demented 
cat...so any data you collect from me will be meaningless, random and 
therefore useless...good luck.




-- Original Message --
From: "Ken Roberson via Elecraft" 
To: "Phil Wheeler" ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 


Sent: 2/22/2015 10:36:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power output changed in K3


Not sure that apply to 630M band
Ken K5DNL/WG2XXM


 On Sunday, February 22, 2015 10:02 AM, Phil Wheeler 
 wrote:



 Yes. Note with 5.10 says " /Those who loaded rev.
5.10 must re-do the 50-Watt gain calibration."

/Guess I'd better do that today :-)

Phil W7OX

On 2/22/15 7:33 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 Did you load one of the recent beta firmware
 releases?  Starting with
 5.01 (I think) - certainly in 5.10 there was a
 change that required
 redoing the TX power calibration.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 2015-02-22 6:26 AM, Johnny Siu wrote:

 Hello Elecrafters,
 I recently discovered that only 20m can deliver
 90W with all other bands deliver 40-50W.  I did
 a RF power output re-calibration and everything
 is ok now.
 I don't know why this happens?  I did not do
 any changes in configuration before.
 Any ideas?
 73
 Johnny VR2XMC


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Re: [Elecraft] Config: VFO LINK

2015-02-19 Thread Jim's Desktop
Roy (and others) if you're doing something wrong, I am too.  I can get 
PF1 to work on any other item except VFO LNK.  On anything else, when 
you hold PF1, it beeps and you get the message PF1 SET.  This doesn't 
happen with the VFO LNK menu item.  Holding PF1 produces the beep, but 
no PF1 SET message and PF1 remains set to whatever item it was 
previously set to.


FW UC 05.10, FL 01.17, d1 and d2 both 02.83 and the DVR is not installed 
in my K3.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Roy Morris" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2/19/2015 2:10:50 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Config: VFO LINK


I must be doing something wrong. I can program other Config programs to
work in PF1 hold, but I still can't get VFO LINK to work with this 
button.

Is there something I am missing?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: best roofing filter on RTTY

2015-02-16 Thread Jim's Desktop
The narrowest filter I have in both receivers is the 400 Hz one.  I 
borrowed a K3 that had a 250 Hz filter in it once and tried it on RTTY.  
It works, but it's right on the margin of being too narrow.  If someone 
is using one of the older Packet TNC's that have RTTY mode in them (they 
used 200 Hz shift instead of 170 and there are still a lot of them out 
there) it's really hard to get them tuned in with a 250 Hz filter, 
especially in weak signal/selective QSB situations.  The 400 Hz filter 
doesn't seem to have that limitation though it does let slightly more 
noise in (easily handled with the DSP filters anyway.


Jim - W0EB


On 2/15/2015 11:35 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi,
I ordered and use the 400 for RTTY, I suspect the 250 is a bit to
narrow.


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[Elecraft] FW Beta 5.10

2015-02-14 Thread Jim's Desktop
Just got around to installing 5.10.  Good thing I remembered Wayne's 
caveat to re-run the power calibration routines in the K3 Utility as I 
have a tendency to forge ahead without reading the "release notes" that 
carefully.


I had been having a few minor power output glitches when running the 
KPA500 amp, and the re-run of the 50 watt power out cleared those 
glitches up nicely.  Probably the newer FW had somewhat to do with it 
also.


I'd been putting the upgrade off as everything was working well enough 
for my operating style until I recently ordered the KSYN3A modules and I 
realized the latest FW rev I had was 5.01 so I figured I'd better 
upgrade to 5.10 at least.


Looking forward to the arrival of the new synthesizers, especially with 
the faster QSK switch times so I won't have to lose SPLIT when sending 
QRQ (my version of QRQ is only around 45 wpm as with my Tinnitus 
everything blurs beyond 45).  I used to be able to run 60+ and there is 
one guy (will remain nameless) who always calls me at 60+ when I call CQ 
and refuses to slow down to where I can copy him.  He seems to think 
he's helping me get faster but that's medically impossible now.


Jim - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A - installation question

2015-02-14 Thread Jim's Desktop
 I looked it over and the only reason you would have to remove the KRX3 
is if you had it installed but were only buying one KSYN3A.  You must 
have the same synthesizer installed for both receivers.  If you just 
change out the main receiver's synthesizer, you then must remove both 
the old 2nd RX synthesizer AND the receiver or you will confuse the K3's 
MPU and it won't work.  That was the gist of the previous thread.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Ken K3IU" 
To: "Dauer, Edward" ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 


Sent: 2/14/2015 9:33:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A - installation question

I believe that you should ne able to install both boards without 
removing the KRX3

73, Ken K3IU

On 2/14/2015 10:03 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

First question that came to my mind when I saw the announcement was
whether the KRX3 had to be removed and reinstalled in order to replace 
the
synths. I found installing the KRX3 exasperating when I assembled the 
K3

- success came on about the 12th try.

My K3 is 100 miles from where I am right now, so I looked at the 
photos in
the K3 assembly manual and those in the new synth instructions, from 
which
it appears that the swap could be done without removing the KRX3. 
Could

we confirm whether R&R is required? Message below says it is.

If the sub does have to be R&R¹d, anyone have suggestions about how to
reinstall it without the major fuss I experienced?


Ted, KN1CBR



--

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 13:21:20 -0800
From: Richard Thorpe 
To: Elecraft List 
Subject: [Elecraft] More KSYN3A
Message-ID: <92f46418-caab-45a6-bfcd-f87860378...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I talked to Elecraft and you must remove the second receiver not just
unplug it and remove its ?old? synth board. . . .

R Thorpe K6CG

--

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 does not use "EBS", and doesn't have any associated bias noise

2015-01-08 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
 I'll add to this in that I just tested my KPA500 to see what the noise 
floor did with it on or off.  On an antenna, I noticed absolutely no 
change in noise floor on any band 160-6, but just to kill the 
atmospheric noise, I connected a dummy load to the output of the KPA500. 
 Again, absolutely no change in noise floor, either by ear or visually 
on the P3 with the KPA500 in operate, standby or power off (normal and 
also completely off via back panel switch).


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Edward R Cole" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/8/2015 10:41:06 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 does not use "EBS", and doesn't have any 
associated bias noise



A side note to this topic for RF amplifiers, in general:

I have not heard of this "paper crunch" noise description, before this, 
but it's well known with VHF and up operation that one does want to 
remove bias during receive on many amplifiers due to "white" noise 
being generated. Perhaps this is not detected from HF amplifiers 
because sky noise is much higher and it is not heard.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 rev. 2.33: Improved NEW QSK mode, flat RX EQ in DATA modes

2015-01-08 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Just finished a nice QSO on 40 meters and the right channel click using 
NEW QSK seems to be completely gone (or so low my old ears can't detect 
it).  I set the 60 meter channels up in memories using the K3/KX3 memory 
editor and tried running through the modes and used TUNE and ATU-TUNE 
into a dummy load.  They seem to work okay.  I didn't put a signal on 
the air as there were QSO's in progress on all the channels.


Channel hopping - My PX3 updates properly, changing modes and it works 
on 2 meters with the transverter as well.  I hooked up my SignaLink USB 
and checked the EQ settings - they now auto-set to no EQ when DATA modes 
are selected - Ran my HAL ST-8000 super RTTY AFSK modem through it and 
same there on RTTY.


My testing shows everything is OK, but it's possible I missed something. 
 However, I'd put it up for Beta and get a wider range of testers for a 
deeper perspective - I beat on it pretty hard, but there are some guys 
out there that could break a steel beam without even trying - LOL.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Wayne Burdick" 
To: "Steve Buroker" ; "Reed" ; 
canis...@gmail.com; "Ron" ; "Ray Sills" 
; "Leroy Marion" ; "Art 
Nienhouse" ; "Charles Powell" ; 
"Jim Sheldon" ; "Greg Franklin" ; 
"Hjalmar Duklæt" ; "Don Palmer" 
; "Randy Moore" ; 
"Jean-François Ménard" ; "John 
Oppenheimer" ; "ct1dr...@gmail.com Quental" 
; "Darren Long" ; "Matt Zilmer" 
; "Gary - NC3Z" ; "Edouard 
Lafargue" ; "Paul Locker" ; 
"Sven Ladegast" ; "John and Rita Freitag" 
; "Rick Tavan N6XI" ; "ka5wrg" 


Sent: 1/7/2015 9:39:16 PM
Subject: KX3 rev. 2.33: Improved NEW QSK mode, flat RX EQ in DATA modes


Hi all,

The attached KX3 field-test firmware is improved over the release I 
sent most of you previously (2.32). NEW QSK mode should now produce 
fewer receive artifacts while keying with AFX=DELAY. DATA mode RX EQ 
should be completely flat.


Please give it a good workout, using as many bands, modes and features 
as possible, as we'd like to go to beta with this rev if possible. See 
release notes below, which include a proposed method of testing NEW QSK 
vs. OLD QSK.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

* * *



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Piglet

2014-12-27 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
The piglet does not need a connection to the iPad.  It connects via 
WiFi, either through your home wireless network or direct, depending on 
how you set it up.  Set up instructions are either in the Piglet's book 
or in their on-line instructions on www.pignology.net  I don't have one 
right now, but it's relatively easy to set up.  You gotta follow the 
exact directions from pignology though to get it working.  The RS-232 
cable connection is only to connect the Piglet to the radio or to the 
computer for special programming.


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "H. Cary" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 12/27/2014 9:25:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 & Piglet

Santa brought me an iPadAir for Xmas and I'd like to sync it w/ a 
Piglet (Pignology product) for CW and digital modes as shown in Sept. 
2013 CQ article and to use w/ HamLog.
The Piglet has an RS-232 male connector and my IPad has a lightening 
connector at the iPad w/ a USB connector at the other end. Surely there 
must be an adapter plug to connect these two varieties (USB/RS-232) but 
my on-line search hasn't found one.


Has anyone on the reflector successfully put together a similar setup 
and could point me in the right direction?


73 & Happy New Year,
Cary, K4TM

Sent from Clovelly Cottage, home of amateur radio station K4TM and the 
most creative Sue Cary, with my iPhone 6 in Lynchburg VA - a great 
place to live, work, play, and retire!

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 case advice

2014-12-19 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
An alternative to the Pelican is a pretty decent one offered by Marlin 
P. Jones Associates, a surplus place out of Florida. I use one of their 
larger size ones for the KX3. It has pluckable foam and is a tad bit 
cheaper than the Pelican. No manufacturer's markings on it, but it looks 
like it might be a (probably Chinese) knockoff of one of the Pelican 
style cases.


They have two sizes, 12 X 7.4 X 4.4 inches ( 
http://www.mpja.com/12in-X-74in-X-44in-Waterproof-Case/productinfo/18351%20BX/ 
) in which the KX3 fits nicely along with a 3 amp power supply, 
microphone, some cables/adapters and the Elecraft key paddle for the 
KX3.


I use their smaller one for the PX3 along with it's cables. The smaller 
one is 9.3 X 6.2 X 3.5 inches ( 
http://www.mpja.com/93in-X-62in-X-35in-Waterproof-Case/productinfo/17813%20BX/ 
) with the same pluckable foam.


Both cases are very water resistant if not totally waterproof like 
claimed and they have pressure relief valves on them for shipping via 
aircraft. They also have locking holes for padlocks if needed.


They are quite well made out of molded ABS plastic, O ring sealed and 
very positive latches on the covers.


usual disclamer, no interest in MPJA other than a satisfied customer.

Jim - W0EB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 case advice

2014-12-19 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
An alternative to the Pelican is a pretty decent one offered by Marlin 
P. Jones Associates, a surplus place out of Florida.  I use one of their 
larger size ones for the KX3.  It has pluckable foam and is a tad bit 
cheaper than the Pelican.  No manufacturer's markings on it, but it 
looks like it might be a (probably Chinese) knockoff of one of the 
Pelican style cases.


They have two sizes, 12 X 7.4 X 4.4 inches ( 
http://www.mpja.com/12in-X-74in-X-44in-Waterproof-Case/productinfo/18351%20BX/ 
) in which the KX3 fits nicely along with a 3 amp power supply, 
microphone, some cables/adapters and the Elecraft key paddle for the 
KX3.


I use their smaller one for the PX3 along with it's cables.  The smaller 
one is  9.3 X 6.2 X 3.5 inches ( 
http://www.mpja.com/93in-X-62in-X-35in-Waterproof-Case/productinfo/17813%20BX/ 
) with the same pluckable foam.


Both cases are very water resistant if not totally waterproof like 
claimed and they have pressure relief valves on them for shipping via 
aircraft.  They also have locking holes for padlocks if needed.


They are quite well made out of molded ABS plastic, O ring sealed and 
very positive latches on the covers.


usual disclamer, no interest in MPJA other than a satisfied customer.

Jim - W0EB

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[Elecraft] OT: Monthly "Bug dot stabilizer" infomercial --

2014-12-01 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Attention CW "Bug" users. Just a short reminder if you're experiencing 
"scratchy" dot problems due to contact bounce on your bug, I've 
resurrected Ted McElroy's mechanical "Dot Stabilizer" which, when 
installed and properly adjusted, helps eliminate around 90 percent of 
this problem. Doesn't wear out and gives more positive control than a 
piece of foam inserted in the movable contact. It can be easily 
installed (and removed if you sell the key and want to keep the 
stabilizer for another one). It works by placing a very small amount of 
tension on the moving dot contact to prevent bounce as the contacts 
separate which is the primary cause of the problem.


I make them for all the popular makes & models currently available 
including the ones with the flat pendulum arms. I even have the 
dimensions for the Metric sized pendulums, both round and flat.


Contact me off list please  w...@cox.net  for 
pricing or further information.

Jim - W0EB
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[Elecraft] KX3 - First 2 meter CW contact

2014-11-29 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Just finished a 15 mile CW QSO on 144 MHz using the KX3's internal 2 
meter transverter.  Antenna on my end was a Ringo Ranger (vertically 
polarized) only 12 feet off the ground and the antenna on his end was 
also a Ringo Ranger but his was on a real short (6 foot) ground mounted 
mast.  There is quite a bit of hilly terrain between us and signals were 
only 539 both ways but with the low noise on the band copy was real 
easy.  We tried SSB but I don't have the latest Field Test firmware in 
my KX3 and the transverter is putting out maybe a watt on SSB.  It does 
the full 3.0 watts on CW.  Also as previously reported, CW using the 
internal keyer is kind of messed up.  It misses character elements and 
gets choppy at times.  I didn't have time to try external keying with my 
bug but that will come in another test tomorrow.


Jim - W0EB
Park City, KS
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[Elecraft] KX3 2 Meter Transverter

2014-11-28 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Got mine in the mail this morning.  Virtually painless install that took 
all of 35 minutes and another 20 or so to finish reading the 
instructions and get it configured properly.  Quick check on the local 
2M repeater has it working on FM just fine with the repeater though I 
got reports of my TX audio being light and I did have to reconfigure the 
deviation as our local machine wants to see 4.5KHz instead of the 
default 3.5.  I don't have a horizontal beam up for 2 meters yet (should 
be here next week some time) so I haven't checked the other modes yet.  
Right now the batteries are charging so I can haul it to our ham radio 
breakfast in the morning for a "show and tell" demo.


The received audio sounds pretty distorted though.  Almost as the RX is 
off frequency but tuning around while someone was transmitting didn't 
offer much change.  This may be due to the way the DSP demodulates FM, 
not sure.  Maybe Wayne will chime in after the holiday with an answer to 
this.  Our repeater does have 5.0 KHz output deviation and isn't 
narrowbanded like many of the newer ones are so this might be the 
problem.


There are a ton of repeaters here in KS and the surrounding states that 
still use the old standard of 4.5 KHz deviation so this could be a 
potential problem around here.  However, I didn't get the transverter to 
operate FM repeaters with anyway so it's not really a complaint, merely 
an observation.


All in all, it was extremely easy to install and configure but you DO 
need to read the manual and follow the instructions explicitly, 
especially when it comes to those super miniature coax cables for the 
local oscillator and antenna connections.  A GOOD magnifier sure helps 
get those connections right - LOL.


Jim - W0EB

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[Elecraft] Current beta versions for KX3/PX3?

2014-11-04 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Been out of touch for almost a week - latest I have installed in the KX3 
is 2.25 and the PX3 is 1.12  Are there any newer Beta or Field Test 
versions out yet?


Jim - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: "Bug" key Dot Stabilizer Infomercial

2014-10-23 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Attention CW "Bug" users.  Just a short reminder if you're experiencing 
"scratchy" dot problems due to contact bounce on your bug, I've 
resurrected Ted McElroy's mechanical "Dot Stabilizer" which, when 
installed and properly adjusted, helps eliminate around 90 percent of 
this problem.  Doesn't wear out and gives more positive control than a 
piece of foam inserted in the movable contact. It can be easily 
installed (and removed if you sell the key and want to keep the 
stabilizer for another one).  It works by placing a very small amount of 
tension on the moving dot contact to prevent bounce as the contacts 
separate which is the primary cause of the problem.  Original theory of 
operation and some pictures of the original McElroy device and several 
of my prototypes at www.artifaxbooks.com/dotstabilizer.htm (pix of mine 
at the bottom of that page)


I make them for all the popular makes & models currently available and 
can custom make them to fit almost any bug if you can provide me with a 
picture of the key and diameter or thickness of the pendulum arm.  
Current items in inventory fit All Vibroplex models with the round 
pendulum, All McElroy models with the round pendulum All metric sized 
(such as the TW Olympic) and all models that use the flat pendulum arm 
to include metric sizes such as the Frattini Prestige Deluxe and all 
models of the military J-36 and current reproductions of it.


This may be the last offering as I'm considering stopping production of 
these for a while due to other commitments so if you really need one (or 
more), get your request in.


Off list contact please to w...@cox.net for pricing or further 
information.


Jim - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: FS - CommRadio CR1A General Coverage Receiver

2014-10-16 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop

CR1A Receiver has been spoken for pending arrival of funds.

Jim - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: FS - CommRadio CR1A General Coverage Receiver

2014-10-16 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
I have for sale a Comm Radio CR1A General Coverage SDR receiver that 
covers from low BC band up through the UHF bands (unfortunately minus 6 
meters).  I bought this 2 months ago for a special monitoring project 
and wound up using something different so this is on the chopping block.


See  http://www.commradio.com/  for full details on it.  Paid $599.95 
plus shipping, but will let it go here for $450 shipped.  It is in 10 of 
10 shape, non smoking environment and used only for initial testing 
here.  It can be powered from the USB control/upgrade port, 9-15 volts 
DC or an internnal Lithium Ion battery that's also charged from the 9-15 
volt or USB ports.  Radio will operate at full volume from it's internal 
speaker from almost 8 hours on the internal battery which has been 
installed in this radio.


The receiver has their latest firmware (version 1993) installed and 
upgrades when offered can be downloaded from their website listed above.


Serious inquiries only by email please, off list to keep the clutter 
down.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB

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[Elecraft] OT: Monthly Bug Dot Stabilizer info

2014-10-02 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Attention CW "Bug" users.  Just a short reminder if you're experiencing 
"scratchy" dot problems due to contact bounce on your bug, I've 
resurrected Ted McElroy's mechanical "Dot Stabilizer" which, when 
installed and properly adjusted, helps eliminate around 90 percent of 
this problem.  Doesn't wear out and gives more positive control than a 
piece of foam inserted in the movable contact. It can be easily 
installed (and removed if you sell the key and want to keep the 
stabilizer for another one).  It works by placing a very small amount of 
tension on the moving dot contact to prevent bounce as the contacts 
separate which is the primary cause of the problem.


I make them for all the popular makes & models currently available and 
also can make them to fit almost any bug if you can provide me with a 
picture of the key and diameter or thickness of the pendulum arm.


Off list contact please to w...@cox.net for pricing or further 
information.


Jim - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: Dot Stabilizers for Bugs

2014-09-16 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Finally received my 2mm diameter milling cutters so I can now use 
precision tooling to machine the slot in the stabilizers for the J-36, 
Lightning Bug, Champion, Japanese Coffin Bug and the European flat 
pendulum bugs.  I no longer need to cut them with a saw so they come out 
with much smoother slots and one size seems to fit all of the bugs 
requiring slotted stabilizers.


See earlier posts or email me off list for further details and pricing.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: Mechanical Dot Stabilizers for Bug Keys

2014-08-31 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
The mechanical stabilizers I've been making for bugs have been extremely 
well received and I thank my customers for their kind words & reviews.  
The orders have finally slowed down a bit and since finally obtaining a 
decent bench-top "mill/drill" I've been able to get a few ahead and now 
have some of the Vibroplex "round pendulum" versions in stock for 
immediate shipment.  I also have prepared "blanks" in stock for the 
McElroy and Metric round pendulum types that use a larger diameter rod 
so all that's necessary is for the proper sized hole to be drilled and 
chamfered to send these as well.


The "flat pendulum" types still have to be made as ordered because I'm 
still waiting on the right sized cutting bit (back ordered) to allow me 
to cut the slot on the mill.  Right now I have to rough it out on the 
jigsaw and file to size.


Thanks again to all those that have ordered and are now using them.

Any inquiries should be direct email to me rather than on the reflector 
to keep the off topic clutter to a minimum.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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[Elecraft] Semi-Auto (Bug) key Dot Stabilizer Update

2014-08-14 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop

Bug Dot Stabilizer, August 2014 update:

I currently make "Dot Stabilizers" (a T.R. McElroy invention from the 
1930's - see www.artifaxbooks.com/dotstabilizer.htm for history & 
theory) for the Vibroplex, Speed-X and McElroy keys having the round 
pendulum and bugs with the flat pendulum, such as the Vibroplex 
Lightning Bug, Champion and WW2 military J-36 bugs (including the Lionel 
models) which are based on the Lightning Bug design. I can customize 
them for other bugs such as the Japanese Hi Mound ("Coffin") bug, 
European made (metric sizes) bugs, etc. as long as you can supply me 
with the diameter (round) or thickness (flat) of the pendulum and a 
sharply focused digital photo of the actual bug you want it for. There 
is no extra charge for this customization as it stands right now.


They can be made out of either aluminum or brass. They mount to the arm 
with a socket head set screw and the proper Allen wrench is included 
along with a printed set of instructions explaining installation and 
proper adjustment. Also, they are made entirely by hand so there may be 
slight differences between each one (won't affect the operation at all). 
I recommend the aluminum ones as they are lighter and don't affect the 
top speed of the bug as much as the brass ones do.


The prices are $20 post paid for the aluminum and $25 for the brass ones 
to U.S. customers. I was charging $20 for either aluminum or brass, but 
I've run out of surplus brass and had to buy some at current new brass 
prices which are considerably higher than what I had to pay for the 
surplus stock.  Internationally, they are $35 for Aluminum and $40 (U.S. 
Funds) for the brass ones.  They will be sent "International First 
Class" mail.


If you decide to order one or more, I will need the make/model of the 
bug(s) you want stabilizers for, whether they are "left" or "right" 
handed (the bug, not you) and be sure to include your mailing address as 
well.
The preferred method of payment is Pay Pal and my PP address is:   
w...@cox.net .  For International customers I'll only accept payment by 
PayPal.  I will take personal checks or USPS money orders from U.S. 
domestic customers, made out to Aubrey J. Sheldon,  sent to my QRZ 
mailing address.


I'll be happy to answer any further questions you may have.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
2029 East Evanston Dr.
Park City, KS 67219-1618
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[Elecraft] OT: Price Drop - current production Vibroplex Blue Racer Key

2014-07-23 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
One & only price drop on the Vibroplex Blue Racer bug I listed several 
days ago - it's just over a year old and was purchased at Dayton last 
year for almost $230.  It has the blue base and jeweled pivot bearings.  
I'll include an extra weight to help slow it down below 20 wpm if 
desired.


It has become surplus to my needs here and I'm willing to let it go for 
$170 shipped anywhere in the U.S. lower 48.


USPS Money Order or PayPal accepted.

High resolution pictures are available by email on request but this key 
is a 9 out of 10 with a minor scratch on the label (there when I got 
it).  Serial number is 400,020.


Anyone interested, please email me off list and first email (by 
date/time sent) gets right of first refusal.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: For Sale Current Production Vibroplex Blue Racer Bug

2014-07-20 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
I have for sale a current production Vibroplex Blue Racer bug - it's 
just over a year old and was purchased at Dayton last year for almost 
$230.  It has the blue base and jeweled pivot bearings.  I'll include an 
extra weight to help slow it down below 20 wpm if desired.


It has become surplus to my needs here and I'm willing to let it go for 
$175 plus USPS medium flat rate box shipping which is currently $12.35 
anywhere in the U.S.


USPS Money Order or PayPal accepted.

High resolution pictures are available by email on request but this key 
is a 9 out of 10 with a minor scratch on the label (there when I got 
it).  Serial number is 400,020.


Anyone interested, please email me off list and first email (by 
date/time sent) gets right of first refusal.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: Bug Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-13 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Bug users on the list - I've confirmed a design that works on the old 
Japanese Skillman & the newer Hi Mound "coffin" style bugs with the flat 
pendulum & plastic top cover.


I now make them to fit just about any bug out there as long as I can get 
the diameter of the round pendulum, thickness of the flat pendulum and 
at least a picture of the vibrating dot contact so I can determine the 
shape of the pre-tensioner hook.


There has been a slight price change for ones made from brass.

Aluminum ones are still $20 post paid domestic and $35 post paid to 
Canada and other international countries that accept U.S. International 
First Class postage.  Customs charges (if any) are the responsibility of 
the international customer.


Anyone interested, please email me off list and please don't comment on 
the list to keep off topic clutter to a minimum out of respect for the 
Elecraft users here.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB

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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
 Been there, done that one too.  Hamfest in Concordia, KS back in the 
early 80's just after I retired from the Army.  Used an old Ten-Tec 
Argonaut and loaded the entire gutter system at the motel the hamfest 
was held at.  There was so much corrosion in the joints that even the 5 
watt Argonaut wiped out TV reception throughout the whole motel.  Worked 
a whole bunch of stations on 20 meters too.  Good thing they never 
figured out where the problem was coming from - LOL!


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Wayne Burdick" 
To: "Nr4c" 
Cc: "Elecraft" ; "Jim GM" 


Sent: 7/4/2014 6:20:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?



On Jul 4, 2014, at 4:01 PM, Nr4c  wrote:

 I once worked a friend who'd just moved and was using a "GutterTron" 
ant in the CQWW. Yeah, the gutter and downspout fed against a 
ground-rod.


 Another friend loaded up the liner in his chimney, called a 
GutterTron.



I worked all over the country on 10 and 15 meters recently using a 
large metal window frame (5' x 8' picture window) as the antenna. I 
used alligator clips directly from the KX3 to two spots on the frame, 
experimenting with spacing. This is not described in the literature, 
but it worked. The ATU tuned up the window frame to ~1.0:1 on 20-6 
meters.


Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] FS: [K1] 2 band modules

2014-06-25 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
I have for sale 1 wired & aligned 40 & 20 meter 2 band board and one new 
in the bag 17 & 15 meter board that's not built.  I went the 4 band 
module for my K1  so these are not needed here.  (my K1 is not for sale, 
just these 2 band modules).


Please reply off list if you're interested and we'll talk about price 
and shipping.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB


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[Elecraft] OT: Mechanical Dot Stabilizer for Bug type keys

2014-06-22 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Back home from vacation and again taking orders for the "Dot 
Stabilizers".  All models of Vibroplex bugs, McElroy Bugs and the Les 
Logan or Johnson Speed-X bugs as well as some others as long as you can 
supply me dimensions and pictures - Email me off list please to keep the 
clutter down.  If you don't know what this is, see 
http://artifaxbooks.com/dotstabilizer.htm for the theory and pictures of 
the original plus several of the re-designed ones I make.


Jim - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] Good to see Elecraft at Sea-Pac

2014-06-09 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
 It's also good to see that Wayne AND his sense of humor survived Sea 
Pac.


My wife and I are heading out to HamCom in Plano, TX this week to give 
Eric & his wife a hand there.

Hopefully they'll return with their wits intact as well.

W0EB

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And if your hat ever needs new firmware, it'll be free.


Wayne


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[Elecraft] OT: Scratchy Dot reducer for Bug type keys, Update#2

2014-06-08 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
For those operators who use bugs and were interested in the mechanical 
dot stabilizer I make but were told they weren't available for the 
models with the flat pendulum such as the Vibroplex Champion, Lightning 
Bug and the various models of Signal Corps J-36 made by both Vibroplex 
and Lionel,  They are now available.


I was able to borrow both a Vibroplex Champion and a Lionel J-36 from a 
friend's collection to proof the design which is just slightly different 
from the round pendulum models due to the difference in the geometry of 
the U shaped movable dot contact.


Same price as the ones for the round pendulum models, $20 post paid 
domestic and $20 plus necessary postage to international destinations.  
Theory of operation and some pictures may be seen at 
http://artifaxbooks.com/dotstabilizer.htm


Models for which the Mechanical Dot Stabilizer is available:

All Vibroplex models with the Round Pendulum (Original, Blue Racer, 
etc.)

All Vibroplex models with the Flat Pendulum (Champion, Lightning Bug)
Vibroplex WW2 Signal Corps J-36
Lionel WW2 Signal Corps J-36
All McElroy models with the 3/16" Round Pendulum
TAC models (made in collaboration with McElroy) with the 3/16" Round 
Pendulum
All Les Logan and E.F. Johnson Speed-X models (Same diameter Round 
Pendulum as Vibroplex)


Some others such as the Alberto Frattini models with the Flat Pendulum 
may be able to be

fabricated on a one by one custom basis.

I'll be on vacation from Thursday, June 12 through Sunday, June 22 so 
any orders during that time will have to wait until I get back.


Again, I'll take orders up until this coming Tuesday and resume taking 
orders after returning from vacation.  Order cutoff is Tuesday, June 
10th to
allow time to fabricate and ship any orders received by that time.  Any 
orders arriving after the 10th of June will be in the queue and will 
ship as

quickly as possible after my return.

If ordering, payment may be made by PayPal or USPS Money Order.
BE SURE TO INCLUDE THE MAKE AND MODEL OF YOUR BUG and whether it's for a 
Flat or Round pendulum.


PayPal address is:   Aubrey Sheldon w...@cox.net

Money Orders should be made out to Aubrey J. Sheldon
and sent to:

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
2029 East Evanston Dr.
Park City, KS  67219-1618

Thank you for your consideration,

Jim Sheldon - W0EB

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[Elecraft] OT: More complete information on the Dot Stabilizer for Bugs.

2014-06-04 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
More complete information pertaining to the "Dot Stabilizer" for 
semi-automatic "Bug" keys that helps eliminate the scratchy dots that 
occur due to "dot contact bounce" in many of them.


There is a technique for using a piece of high density foam that will 
cure many of the problems, but not all foam is created equal and while 
certainly cheaper, it doesn't always work in all instances as I found 
from over 6 months of experimenting.  Quite by accident I found the 
following information and have decided to attempt a resurrection of the 
device.


The theory and pictures of the McElroy original device can be seen at 
 and Tom French, W1IMQ who 
owns and maintains that historical site, graciously posted links to 
several pictures of the ones that I make, mounted on 3 different make & 
models of my own bugs along with my email address. You can find the 
pictures and links near the bottom of that page.
The ones I currently make are specifically for the Vibroplex, Speed-X 
and McElroy keys that have the pendulum that the weights slide on. At 
this time, I do not make them for those with the flat pendulum such as 
the Vibroplex Lightning Bug, Champion or the old military J-36 bugs. I 
do, however, have a prototype in "beta test" that I believe will fit the 
flat pendulum keys so hopefully I'll be able to offer one for those 
models in the very near future.


Hope this clears up any questions.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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[Elecraft] OT: Dot Stabilizer add on for Bug Key - update

2014-06-04 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
When I made my initial post yesterday, I forgot to mention some very 
pertinent information about the device.


The theory and pictures of the McElroy original device can be seen at 
http://artifaxbooks.com/dotstabilizer.htm and Tom French, W1IMQ who owns 
and maintains that historical site, graciously posted links to several 
pictures of the ones that I make, mounted on 3 different make & models 
of my own bugs along with my email address.  You can find the pictures 
and links near the bottom of that page.


The ones I currently make are specifically for the Vibroplex, Speed-X 
and McElroy keys that have the pendulum that the weights slide on. At 
this time, I do not make them for those with the flat pendulum such as 
the Vibroplex Lightning Bug, Champion or the old military J-36 bugs.   I 
do, however, have a prototype in "beta test" that I believe will fit the 
flat pendulum keys so hopefully I'll be able to offer one for those 
models in the very near future.


Hope this clears up any questions.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB


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[Elecraft] OT: Scratchy Dot reducer for Bug type keys

2014-06-03 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
This is kind of a feeler email to see if there's any interest for a 
product I've sort of resurrected.  I don't know how many list 
subscribers use a Semi-Automatic "Bug" key for CW when most rigs have 
built in keyers now, but I have been hearing more bugs on the air 
lately, mainly amongst the QRO operators and I've heard some really 
excellent sounding ones and some really horrible sounding ones.  Not 
talking about the operator's "fists", but the really scratchy dots 
inherent in the mechanical contact on the vibrating "Dit" generator.  
This contact is usually a bent, flat spring and the cause of the 
"scratchies" is extra contact bounce on contact break as the spring 
becomes free to vibrate on it's own as the contacts separate.


Ted McElroy, who held the CW receiving record for many years and some 
say that record hasn't been officially broken yet, came up with a 
mechanical device that he incorporated into the contacts on the bugs he 
marketed back in the 1920's and 30's.  I've come up with a hand made 
version of this "dot contact stabilizer" that eliminates the need for a 
capacitor across the terminals of most bugs and almost completely 
eliminates the scratchy dot syndrome when it's properly adjusted.


I've been using one on each of my 4 bugs and it makes them sound really 
good on the air (within the limitations of my "fist") and it makes the 
bugs much easier to send decent CW with.


I've decided to market them on a limited basis as I have to hand make 
each one and I'm not looking to get rich selling them, but I've hit on a 
$20 postage paid price per device within the US and $20 plus whatever 
shipping costs for international customers on a case by case basis.  
They are made mostly of aluminum bar stock with a couple of set screws 
and the adjustable piece of music wire to tame the contact.  Included in 
the price are complete adjustment instructions and the proper Allen 
wrench for the set screws.


Preferred payment is PayPal but I will also accept USPS money orders 
from US Domestic Customers.  PayPal only from international customers 
and they must have a PayPal account and a PayPal verified address.


Email me off list for ordering instructions or for further details.

Jim Sheldon - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] Problems with erratic USB/serial connection

2014-05-27 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop

Dennis,
What Doug said and the fact that the Chinese plagiarized the Prolific 
chip a while back but didn't get an exact copy, so Prolific fixed their 
drivers to recognize the fake chips and stop working.  That seems to 
have caused some people problems with even the legitimate ones like 
Elecraft sold originally.  I wound up getting a USB programmer for one 
of the TYT handi-talkies that had the fake Prolific chip in it.  Screwed 
up everything for a while.  Then I found out that the TYT used the same 
type of cable the Kenwood ones do and I went to a real RS-232 
programming cable cable from Kenwood that worked just fine.


That could be the problem you're running into.

Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Doug Person via Elecraft" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 5/27/2014 3:31:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problems with erratic USB/serial connection

Maybe the best move is to go with the latest FTDI serial -to-usb cable. 
They have improved quite a bit over 6 years or more.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 5/27/2014 1:01 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
Elecraft switched to FTDI chips in mid-2010, so the Prolific driver 
isn't used for more recent cables. This page has drivers for both 
chips.


http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm#drvrs

wunder
K6WRU

On May 27, 2014, at 9:11 AM, "Dennis McAlpine" 
 wrote:


I have been using the KUSB USB/serial converter between my K3 and PC 
for

both DXLab and n1mm. Lately, I have been having trouble with erratic
frequency readings, mainly on n1mm but sometimes on DXLab. On n1mm, 
this
seems to happen mainly when I change bands or after the radio has 
been in
standby without transmitting for a while. I also have to run the USB 
at
19200 rather than 38400. I updated the Prolific driver with no 
effect.
Anyone got a solution to this problem? Barring that, what are people 
using
for a USB/serial converter now days since I have used the old KUSB 
for many

years now? Thanks.

73,

Dennis, K2SX

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--
Walter Underwood
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[Elecraft] KX3 Heatsinks

2014-05-23 Thread Jim&#x27;s Desktop
Thanks to the confusion concerning the source of the KX3 Heatsink a 
couple of days ago, I wound up ordering the one manufactured by Pro 
Audio engineering.  It arrived this morning and I installed it in less 
than a half hour.


I think it deserves a quick review here as everything necessary was 
included including some heat sink compound.  There are three options as 
to how it can be installed.  Option 1 is no case modifications and no 
heat sink grease used.  Option 2 is "no case modifications, heat sink 
compound used on the PA transistors inside the KX3 case only.  Option 3 
requires removing the powder coating on the outside of the bottom half 
of the KX3's case in the same area it's factory removed behind the PA 
transistors and coating the area behind each transistor, the back of the 
transistors and the outside of the case in the area the powder coating 
was removed as well as the bare area on the heatsink.


I chose Option 2 and it was very easy to do without performing the 
suggested separation of the PC board from the bottom half of the case.  
After removing the KX3's original heat sink plate, carefully bend the PA 
transistors forward just enough to get a toothpick between them and the 
back of the case.  Using the supplied heat sink compound, lightly coat 
the back of both transistors and the back of the case where the powder 
coating was left off at the factory.  Carefully move the transistors 
back into contact with the KX3's case, insert the two end screws in the 
new heat sink and just snug them.  Next insert the two screws that hold 
the PA transistors, using a pair of tweezers to position and hold the 
nuts.  Once the nuts are properly started on those screws, tighten the 
other two screws holding the heat sink to the case and then tighten the 
two that hold the PA transistors.


CAUTION, one of the 4 screws supplied with the new heat sink is much 
longer than the other three.  This screw MUST be used in the hole of the 
heat sink on the side of the KX3 that contains the power connector - if 
you use it anywhere else, the KX3 could be damaged by that screw 
contacting something inside the case.  It's purpose is to pass through 
the hole used to keep the KX3's roofing filter module from coming 
unplugged if it's installed.


Operating the KX3 on RTTY used to get the back of it pretty warm if I 
did a lot of transmitting though I never bothered to check the PA 
temperature (probably should have).  Because I hadn't checked it before, 
I didn't check the temp during the "after install" test either, just 
used the feel of the case to judge.


I ran the KX3 key down for around 10 minutes at 10 watts output into my 
big dummy load and periodically felt the heat sink during that time.  
The power never folded back and I couldn't really detect much warmup of 
the heat sink after those 10 minutes so in my opinion, this one works 
just fine also.


Jim - W0EB
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