RE: [Elecraft] K2 and microphones

2007-03-27 Thread Joe Wilkowski
Well FWIW, I bring out all the straight through wired header pins to the
front 8 pin connector and then plug in  a female 8pin mic cable to DB9
connector and then depending on what I am using mic, data or what have you I
plug in the appropriate device to the female 9 pin plug using the male 9 pin
connector appropriately wired.

/joe

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Zeltwanger
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 6:10 AM
To: David Wilburn
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 and microphones


Dave,

That is not what I was thinking about, but is also an interesting option. I
was 
thinking about just wiring all the header pins straight through (as if for 
Elecraft mic). Then I would get short adapter cables (2 or 3  inches, with
8- pin plug/jack on the ends) for the front panel connector. The wiring of
the 
adapter would determine the mic. I just thought this is probably not a new 
idea, and maybe such adapters already exist.

Once i settle on a mic I will probably stick with it. But it would be nice
to 
have the option to plug in a couple different types (desktop, headset, hand 
mic).

73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Greetings from Toano, VA.  Are you looking for something like this?
 
 http://www.n0ss.net/k2_mic_cfg_hdr.pdf
 
 David Wilburn
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 K4DGW
 K2 #5982
 
 
 Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
  Just built the KSB2 and am setting the wiring on the front panel 
  board for
 my
  mic. I am wiring it for a Kenwood mic but would like to have an easy 
  way
 to
  change this for my other mics. Are there any adapters available from 
  anyone
 for
  reconfiguring the wiring at the 8-pin plug for various mics?
  
  Has anyone had any luck with the Kenwood MC-60 mic on the K2? I 
  would be interested in the settings you have used.
  
  73,
  
  Tom KG3V
  
  
  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power

2007-02-19 Thread Joe Wilkowski
It is called a Bias T and you will need two of them to accomplish your
goals.  One at the shack end and one at the antenna end.  A sample of a
commercial bias t can be seen here.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-4116

Hope this helps..

/joe

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 7:53 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power


Bob,

That technique is often done to switch relays, so yes it can be used in the
presence of transmit RF voltages.

Basically the way it is done is to capacitor couple the RF to the coax at
both ends (a series capacitor) and feed the DC to the coax through RF Chokes
sized to have at least 10 times the coax impedance at the lowest operating
frequency.  The capacitors must be large enough to have a low impedance at
the operating frequency and their voltage rating must be large enough to
withstand the peak RF voltages present - all with adequate safety factors (3
is usually good) considered.  Note that none of these parameters relate to
the control voltage or current - of course the RF chokes must be able to
handle whatever current is required for the control mechanism.

I do not have a handy reference to a schematic, but that is the 'jist' of
how it is accomplished - the capacitors keep the DC voltage off the
transmitter and the antenna and the RF Chokes keep the RF out of the control
signals.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 
 Good evening Elecrafters, may your Monday be a restfull one!

  I would like to send a low voltage limited current up the coax from 
 my K2 to the antenna for powering a small device. What would be the 
 best way to inject this voltage into the antenna feed (coax) at the K2 
 and recovering it up the stack? I was hoping to continue supplying 
 this voltage even while transmitting 100 watts.  I thought that the 
 transverter manuals might have some advice about powering preamps but, 
 not a word.

  Best regards, Bob K7HBG.
 K2# 2836 which Will only be pried from my cold dead fingers 
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RE: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart

2007-02-14 Thread Joe Wilkowski
AMEN !!!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Kretzer
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:50 AM
To: Elecraft Mail Posting
Subject: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart


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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Tuning Direction?

2007-02-09 Thread Joe Wilkowski
I don't know as I am not familiar with the KX1 but I presume they are using
an optical encoder to clock the frequency up and down.  Is there a
possibility that the encoder leads were installed in reverse ?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Legge
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 2:54 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Tuning Direction?


Hi Nigel,
The direction reverses when you get north of the equator.  hi hi. 73, de
NT1R

- Original Message - 
From: Nigel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 1:29 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Tuning Direction?


I was surprised to find on my recently completed KX1 that clockwise
rotation
 of the VFO knob Decreases the  frequency and moves Up the menu list.Is
 there a way to reverse this so that clockwise rotation Increases the
 frequency?

 73,  Nigel ZL2DF

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RE: [Elecraft] Different Strokes was E-Ham Review

2007-01-22 Thread Joe Wilkowski
Boy Joe, I cannot support your comments enough.  I am extremely proud of my
little K2/100 and would not trade it for the world.  I just finished it this
past fall. One calendar day after the final alignment, I dragged it to Costa
Rica for the CQWW CW contest and made hundreds of contacts with it while
there. And although not used as a main radio for the contest, (We used
different rigs for the multi-op event) I spent many off contest hours making
qso's.  I wasn't even used to it yet but had it fully integrated with Write
Log and the computer.  

My main station here at home is a MP1K and the K2 sits right beside it with
full access to the station infrastructure at the flip of a switch.  I use
them both and each one has it's place. But for the shear joy of it I use the
K2 90% of the time now.  I operate cw almost exclusively and enjoy using the
K2 for chasing the rare stuff.  I have used the K2 here recently for over
3000 qso's in the ARRL 160, NAQP cw and NAQP ssb contests and only have
minor complaints.  The qsk is not quite there as mentioned (although if you
can stand the pops it will do it) but I feel extreme pleasure in looking at
the keying waveform on the output and seeing how nice and rounded the rise
and fall times are. No Stinkin Clicks from this rig !  I could go on and
on but suffice it to say I couldn't have expected more from the radio.  As
you say, YMMV and I support that as well.

/joe k8fc

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joseph Reed
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 11:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Different Strokes was E-Ham Review


Reviews on E-ham are just about worth as much as you pay to read them, or
pay to post them.

A 3/5 rating is meaningless, just the same as a 5/5 rating is.  Each
individual needs to consider the radio in the context of how they operate.
All radios have warts, just simply there is no perfect radio.  If there were
everybody else would need to close their doors.

Rewind back to the year 2000.  I built K2 #1133, and at the time the only
options were 160m, ssb, the antenna tuner, the noise blanker and the
battery.  At the time I considered it the best QRP radio ever designed.  I
would slip it in a backpack, and I never got skunked on an outing.  Fast
forward to the present.  Last year I built K2 #5226 with all the trimmings.
As a QRP radio I still consider it the best ever designed.  And as a 100
watt radio it is an excellent performer.  Yet and still (I married a
Southern gal) it has its share of warts.  In an intense pileup I will still
use the 756-Pro because it has better QSK, and with dual IF it is easier to
follow the DX.  But I have no affinity to the 756,  I built my K2 and take
great pride in ownership.  Man, what a great kit!  And for 99% of the
operating I do my K2 is the radio of choice.  It always feels good when you
make a QSO on a radio you put together.

For that reason Elecrafters have always been considered somewhat fanatical.
I have built two K2 and one K1.  The sense of accomplishment is tremendous.
Working stations with excellent radios that you have constructed is a
priceless feeling.  And my K2 Twins will knock the snot out of any Heathkit
I ever built!

Simply, E-Ham reviews are just how one person looks at things.  Doesn't mean
they look at the world the same way you do, nor operate the same way.  For
my money Elecraft gives a great deal of value, and the opportunity to build
something great.  With 7 HF stations set up and on line my K2 gets the most
use.  Your mileage may vary.

73,
Joe N9JR
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RE: [Elecraft] RF choke question

2007-01-15 Thread Joe Wilkowski
Jeff, in addition, I would suggest that you have mistakenly used the small
RF choke RFC15, as a resistor or choke in the earlier stages of construction
at some other location.  Also, what you have left is R116 a 5.1 meg resistor
which I believe is the resistor that is across the BFO coil. What is across
your L33 coil ? If nothing else, Elecraft and Christine are almost perfect
when it comes to parts packing and insuring that each kit has every part.

/joe

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 9:59 PM
To: Jeff Kinzli; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RF choke question


Jeff,

The body color of inductors, resistors, capacitors will vary from time to
time depending on the manufacturer's whims, and therefore is not a good
point of reference for any component identification.  The color bands are
the only thing that are important.  It is unfrotunate that the K2 manual
does indicate the body color for the RF chokes - that was only valid at the
time the manual was created.

The smallest RF choke with color bands brown-black-brown should be used for
RFC15.  You may be confused by the body color on the other RF chokes, none
are colored Green-Brown-Green which would indicate an inductance of
5,100,000 uH or 5.1 Hy which would be a very large choke (it could be 15 uH
Brown-Green-Black, but I cannot be certain on that).  Refer to the K2 parts
list for the various chokes that are provided with the kit, and if that is
not sufficient clarification, the ARRL Handbook Components Data chapter has
good information on component color coding and identification.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I'm at the stage where I need to put the little tiny RF choke on the 
 bottom side of the RF board.

 The manual calls for RFC15, which is supposedly tiny, and 
 BROWN-BLACK-BROWN. The only one I have that's brown-black-brown is a 
 larger one. The little tiny one I have is GREEN-BROWN-GREEN.

 Which one is right? :)

 And, for RFC 1, 2, 12 and 13, they're supposed to be Green chokes, but 
 I seem to have 3 greens and one tan colored chokes for this band 
 combo. Could that be possible?


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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity

2006-12-20 Thread Joe Wilkowski
My 2c worth.  I have posted on this reflector before my experiences with ESD 
and my K2 as I was building it.  First, understand that  I live in the 
mountains of Colorado at about 8200' ASL.  It is extremely dry here all year 
round and especially in the winter months when the RH rarely gets above 60 % 
To make matters worse, we are remote enough so that our home is 100% 
electric which is expensive so we supplement the heat with two wood burning 
stoves up and down.  There isn't much more we can do to put humidity in our 
air than to keep fancy water pots filled on top of each stove.


I have read many comments here before on the ability of the K2 to withstand 
ESD discharges but I can attest to having to do a complete reset of the K2 
and reload all parameters on two occasions this season.  Both of these 
instances occurred during the later stages of construction and alignment. 
These ESD related issues occurred while I was wearing a ESD wrist strap tied 
to the ground/neutral buss of the house supply.  ESD is real and the K2 is 
definitely NOT immune.  Since completion, and while the radio was fully 
buttoned up with all panels, the K2 has suffered ESD shutdowns of audio and 
other functions but was quickly remedied by cycling the power.  It seems at 
times that  I cannot move around in my chair without zapping the little rig. 
So my recommendation is to utilize ESD protection at all times when 
constructing or working on the interior of the rig.  Again, your mileage may 
vary but these are my experiences.


/joe k8fc
- Original Message - 
From: Mike Short [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity


ESD damage does not always show up immediately. ESD can stunt the life 
of

components.
Instead of lasting 5 or 10 years, you may only get a few years out of 
them.

I have had a lot of training in the military on ESD, and they spend big
bucks on equipment
And training. The avionics building I worked in in Germany had ESD tile on
the floors, as well as grounded benches, mats
And straps, etc.

Mike
AI4NS

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wyn Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 7:20 AM
To: Mike Harris; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity

Mike and Don,

Thanks for your input. I suspect that ESD damage occurs more often than 
one

realises.  Don's report confirms. I read reports that quite a few of the
NATO IC-781s went down in the last gulf conflict for no apparent reason,
other than microprocessor failure suspected due to the extreme low 
humidity.

I have experienced some strange and otherwise wholly inexplicable PC
failures due to early working without a wrist strap in the past. For 
safety

sake I will stick with the new mat amd its combined wrist strap. Then at
least I will eliminate one possibility from my shopping list of problem
causes.

Best 73
Wyn, VR2AX




- Original Message -
From: Mike Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Wyn Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 5:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity



G'day,

snip
Today in Hong Kong we have relative humidity (RH) of 55% (temp a
'freezing' 16 C), compared to our norm of 90 - 100% RH and temp 30 C+
snip

I assume the 16C was outside not inside.

snip
These past two days my daughter and xyl have mentioned several 'static
shocks' when they play with our cats, all 6 of them.

I remember my school kid days of cats tail static generators, but there's
a serious question behind this. Under what conditions of RH do most
builders of Elecraft rigs operate?
snip

RH in the house is of the order 40-60% temp 20-22C most of the time.  No
cats, no ESD countermeasures besides touching an earthed object before
picking up sensitive devices.  Not killed one yet.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO




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Re: [Elecraft] Help-damaged front end?

2006-12-16 Thread Joe Wilkowski
For What it is worth, during the course of construction on my K2 I 
inadvertently scrambled the K2's eprom storage with ESD.  (Electrostatic 
Discharge)  In one instance I had to do a complete reset of the MPU and 
memory back to the factory defaults. Only at that time did the receiver come 
back to life again.  In my opinion, the little K2 is very susceptible to ESD 
( I was wearing a wrist strap) and the thunderstorms you speak of could have 
definitely jumbled the K2's data storage.


/joe
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: john [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 7:30 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help-damaged front end?



John,

Yup, thunderstorms can put some big surges on unterminated hunks of coax.

If it receives any signals at all and you can tune the signals, then it is
unlikely that everything between the mixer and the audio output has been
damaged.  That leaves only the preamp for active stages - turn the preamp 
on

and off to see if it works, you should see about a 14 dB change (2+
S-units).

If the preamp check works out fine, that leaves only the bandpass filters,
lowpass filters and the T/R switch in the base K2 and the KPA100.  Since 
you

said it transmits fine, the filters are likely not the problem (a filter
problem would have more impact on transmit) -  the most likely thing is 
one

of the diodes in the T/R switch is damaged.

I would first do the DC voltage measurements on the T/R switch diodes in
both the base K2 and the KPA100.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-

I've got a K2 / 100 that has had a dramatic loss of sensitivity.  This
occurred after a thunderstorm, when the antennas were
disconnected outside
the house, but there was still some residual coax feeds (unterminated)
still connected to the K2.

Where to start to look? Appears to have lost sensitivity on all
bands, all
modes. Transmit is still fine (at least CW) .

Thanks
John


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[Elecraft] K2 DSP

2006-11-18 Thread Joe Wilkowski
Good evening folks.  I thought I would pass along a little information to those 
of you who are contemplating the installation of the K2 DSP option.  First let 
me say that this option is well worth the price and has many features and a 
wide range of adjustments for all three popular modes.  But I digress from the 
point.

The DSP unit (KDSP2) comes fully assembled on it's own pc board with two male 
headers, a 12 pin and a 20 pin.  I will refer to this assembly as a daughter 
card for lack of a better term.  The mother board must be built up by the kit 
builder as per Elecraft's great instructions.  During installation, you mount 
the mother board to the control board via a couple of headers (there are  male 
headers on the bottom of the mother board) and a standoff that you install as 
part of the kit.  

The problem that I ran into is this.  The male pins on the pre-assembled DSP 
board for the 20 pin header are too long for the female mating header and  they 
hold the board away from the header about a 1/16 inch or so.  Normally this 
would not be a big deal if you  only had the K2 without the 100 watt rf deck.  
With the 100 watt option, the speaker enclosure rubs right up against the DSP 
chip itself and actually pushes on the whole mother daughter board if it is 
installed that way.  

I solved the problem by cutting 1/16 or so off the male header pins on the 
pre-assembled board and now it mates flush with the female header.  There is 
now about 1/32 or so clearance between the speaker and the DSP.  

FWIW 

/joe k8fc
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