[Elecraft] KRX3 , Mod Comments K3 Screws

2008-12-21 Thread John Sims

Fellow Elecrafters--

Ha!  I finally did it -- I sent a message (replacement screws) to the 
entire list rather than to the owner of the K3 I'm working on.  So, now 
the world knows my comments on screws.


Many thanks to Ron, PE8E, for letting me know about FLTSCRKT -- I'll 
pick that up in my next order.  There are just two or three that I'd 
like to replace right now.


After submitting a slightly critical comment about the screws, I'd like 
to compensate by mentioning my success with several K3 mods and the 
KRX3.  A local friend has a K3 but lacks the eyesight for close work, so 
I'm his Elecraft tech.  It keeps my skills up, plus it puts a K3 on the 
desk beside my K2 for a few days.  Thus far I've installed the following 
K3 mods:


1. Amp pull-up resistors:  easily installed and K3-to-amplifier 
communications are fine.


2. LINE OUT and speaker amplifier mods:  much easier than expected.  The 
original RFC 47 was easily removed intact, the holes were cleared, and 
the new RFC 47 fits nicely on the bottom of the board with its leads 
placed in the old RFC 47 holes. For the LINE OUT mod, removing the KIO3 
board is much easier the second time around, it's just a matter of 
following instructions.


3. Front panel circuit mod:  very easy Pin 7-to-through-hole mod.

4. R91 mod:  it wasn't necessary for K3 S/N 718; the existing resistor 
reads 22 ohms.


5. KRX3 assembly and installation.

Mods 2, 3, and 4 were done while the K3 was apart for the KRX3 work.  
The KRX3 construction and installation were successful.  My only 
comments for Elecraft and builders are 1) the necessity of a small Allen 
wrench for removing the VFO B encoder (p. 18 -- I had the proper wrench 
left over from my K2 construction) and 2) another reminder to check the 
KRX3 PCB nubs before completely installing it inside the bottom shield 
-- I had to file a few nubs for a proper fit.


Many thanks to N6XG for his helpful e-mails during the KRX3 work.

K3 assembly/disassembly:  thus far the rig doesn't show any wear and 
tear, just a few less-than-fresh screw heads.  The process definitely 
gets easier with practice.


Now I see there's another KIO3 mod coming up -- the K3 might remain on 
my desk a little while longer until I can complete that work.


Finally, don't forget Elecraft offers not one but two great 100w rigs -- 
I remain one of the die-hard K2 fans; mine keeps plugging along very 
well for contesting and DXing.  See you on-the-air with it during RTTY 
Roundup and again from KH6-land next year.


73,

John, N7ON K2 #5023
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[Elecraft] K3 Panel Screws - I'm Not Alone

2008-12-20 Thread John Sims

Yet again, from tonight's reflector digest:

So - Now after two mod processes plus installation of the KRX3, my cabinet 
screws are starting to show a little wear.  Maybe Elecraft should offer a 
small kit that just includes replacement cabinet screws (top-and side-cover 
especially) for those of us who keep taking our K3s apart.


Phil - AD5X 
Here, here!  Those screws heads are too malleable, a few of yours are 
showing wear and tear.  I wish I'd ordered a full set of them -- they're 
cheap.  Maybe they'll be offered by Elecraft.


They did give me better side panel heat sink screws (two) for the K2.  
Aptos finally realized the initial pair weren't good for repeated 
assembly and disassembly.


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Internal Digital Modes

2007-09-17 Thread John Sims
I am normally a 99.9 % lurker on the Elecraft list since I find most of the 
information I am interested in without further cluttering up things, but 
here is one I haven't seen discussed.  Will the CW decoder show your 
outgoing (real time - not message memories) sending?  My MFJ 495 keyer does 
this and I have found it to be a VERY helpful feature.


John, K4JDW


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[Elecraft] KPA100 Trouble

2007-01-26 Thread John Sims

Fellow Elecrafters--

This morning I tested a few things with my dead K2/100.

K2/100 configuration:  no response at power-on, power supplied via 
KPA100 J3.  KPA100 heat sink warms.  All power pole connections 
checked.  13.9V from the Samlex 1223 power supply.  2V or so detected 
were detected at the interior J3 leads.


Basic K2 test:  all functions are normal, receive and transmit, all menu 
items are normal. E = 13.6, i = .38.  All internal accessories work 
(160m, SSB, noise blanker).


K2 with KPA100 connected, power supplied through K2 J3:  rig turns on, 
all functions are normal.  KPA100 fan runs for a minute or so.  Normal 
receive and QRP transmit, internal SWR bridge works.  All primary and 
secondary menu items appear normal.  PA E message is normal, 12.  E 
= 13.6, i = .38.


No scorching or shorts detected.  I'll only remove the KPA100 heat sink 
if I have to, but no visible signs of a problem after exploring 
underneath it with a miniature LED.  The KPA100 has been in use for a 
little more than a year without problems.


The trouble began yesterday afternoon as I was testing a receive 
antenna.  I switched power supplies from my regular Samlex to a 
regulated supply I've used with the K2/100 in the past.  All connections 
were carefully checked.  One thing I failed to check was the power 
supply output -- it worked the last time I used it so I didn't bother 
(an important lesson learned).


I've checked the regulated power supply output voltage after the KPA100 
failure and it's only 1 - 2 volts.  Something happened somewhere.


All was well with the regulated-supply K2/100 as I checked out a receive 
antenna for about 30 minutes.  I never transmitted while the regulated 
supply was connected.  I turned the rig off while working on an outdoor 
antenna.  When I returned to the shack, the rig wouldn't turn on and I 
noticed the heat sink was slightly warm.


Here's where I am:  the basic K2 checks out fine.  Some functions of the 
KPA100 work when it's attached to the basic K2 (fan, SWR meter).  No 
visible damage is apparent inside the KPA100.


I don't have a clue where to start.  My K2/100 technical skills have 
diminished in the time since I completed the rig.  I'll have a chance to 
work on the rig again this evening.


Any suggestions where to start would be appreciated.  Are there any 
specific component failures I should look for after a problem somewhere 
in the DC input path caused by a faulty power supply?


73,

John, N7ON  K2/100 #5023
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[Elecraft] K2/100 - Won't Turn On

2007-01-25 Thread John Sims

Fellow Elecrafters--

I've gone and done something to K2/100 #5023.

Symptom:  rig won't turn on.  Heat detected atop heat sink with Samlex 
power supply cable attached.  Hum from power supply after attaching the 
power cable to the K2.  Normal voltage detected at the end of the power 
supply line; 2 volts or so detected when checking the J3 leads inside 
the radio.  Normal continuity between the + and - power supply posts and 
the + and - leads of J3.


Power supply:  Samlex 1223.

This morning XU7ACY was on an 80m power supply birdie and I never worked 
him.  This afternoon when I got home I decided to switch to a regulated 
supply I've used before with this K2.  After attaching the rig to the 
regulated supply it received normally for about 45 minutes while I 
tested an 80m receive loop.  I turned off the rig, went outside to work 
on my transmit antenna, returned inside and tried to turn on the rig -- 
nothing.  While checking to see if all cables were installed properly I 
noticed the KPA100 heat sink was warm.


The only other anomaly recently has been a stiffness in S1, the power 
switch. 

I've tested and cleaned the power pole connectors and all is well there. 

I'm a decent builder but _not_ experienced at troubleshooting.  Any 
ideas where I should start?


Thanks in advance and 73,

John, N7ON
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 Modifications

2006-11-13 Thread John Sims

Scott--

Unpack the box and build the kit; you'll be glad you did.

Your posting included excellent questions posed by many first-time 
Elecraft builders, and it's provided an opportunity for the Elecraft 
community to assure you you've made a wise purchase.


I was the perfect example of a novice kit builder when my K2 arrived 
last year.  After enjoying construction of the rig and several options, 
I've never been happier with a rig.  If I buy a second rig it's going to 
be another K2/100.


I've had no trouble with my rig, and no modifications have been 
necessary.  I was concerned when the recent KPA100 modification was 
announced.  However, I learned it isn't necessary for most K2/100's, 
only for those who've experienced particular symptoms.  That speaks 
volumes for Elecraft support--they've responded to user needs; some need 
the mod, others don't.  Furthermore, one of the guys responsible for the 
mod responded to my query and convinced me I don't need it--yet another 
example of Elecraft reflector support.


Sometimes reading the reflector is like opening a medical textbook and 
becoming convinced you have every disease known to man; everything that 
_can_ happen to an Elecraft rig shows up on the reflector.


You expressed concern over the rework necessary when installing 
options.  With the full K2 construction under your belt, the one or two 
components that typically need taken out and the addition of a connector 
on the K2 RF board are easy.  Option installation isn't so much a 
re-work as it is just another construction step of the basic rig.  It's 
a lot simpler to do than it may appear in the manual.


Read and re-read the manual.  That way no aspect of construction will 
surprise you and you'll be aware of any potentially difficult portions 
of construction.  It'll usually turn out that what appears daunting in 
the manual turns out to be no problem at all.


With Elecraft technical staff and reflector experts just an e-mail away, 
you have a tremendous support staff available both before and after you 
open the box.  Just follow the instructions, don't work while tired, and 
perform all tests.  You'll end up with a top-of-the-line rig.


73,

John, N7ON K2/100 #5023 + noise blanker, SSB module, 160m module + more 
to come


P.S.  I'm not technically inclined, but I took lots of photographs 
during construction.  Let me know if you need to see anything.

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