[Elecraft] KRX3 , Mod Comments & K3 Screws
Fellow Elecrafters-- Ha! I finally did it -- I sent a message (replacement screws) to the entire list rather than to the owner of the K3 I'm working on. So, now the world knows my comments on screws. Many thanks to Ron, PE8E, for letting me know about "FLTSCRKT" -- I'll pick that up in my next order. There are just two or three that I'd like to replace right now. After submitting a slightly critical comment about the screws, I'd like to compensate by mentioning my success with several K3 mods and the KRX3. A local friend has a K3 but lacks the eyesight for close work, so I'm his Elecraft tech. It keeps my skills up, plus it puts a K3 on the desk beside my K2 for a few days. Thus far I've installed the following K3 mods: 1. Amp pull-up resistors: easily installed and K3-to-amplifier communications are fine. 2. LINE OUT and speaker amplifier mods: much easier than expected. The original RFC 47 was easily removed intact, the holes were cleared, and the new RFC 47 fits nicely on the bottom of the board with its leads placed in the old RFC 47 holes. For the LINE OUT mod, removing the KIO3 board is much easier the second time around, it's just a matter of following instructions. 3. Front panel circuit mod: very easy Pin 7-to-through-hole mod. 4. R91 mod: it wasn't necessary for K3 S/N 718; the existing resistor reads 22 ohms. 5. KRX3 assembly and installation. Mods 2, 3, and 4 were done while the K3 was apart for the KRX3 work. The KRX3 construction and installation were successful. My only comments for Elecraft and builders are 1) the necessity of a small Allen wrench for removing the VFO B encoder (p. 18 -- I had the proper wrench left over from my K2 construction) and 2) another reminder to check the KRX3 PCB nubs before completely installing it inside the bottom shield -- I had to file a few nubs for a proper fit. Many thanks to N6XG for his helpful e-mails during the KRX3 work. K3 assembly/disassembly: thus far the rig doesn't show any wear and tear, just a few less-than-fresh screw heads. The process definitely gets easier with practice. Now I see there's another KIO3 mod coming up -- the K3 might remain on my desk a little while longer until I can complete that work. Finally, don't forget Elecraft offers not one but two great 100w rigs -- I remain one of the die-hard K2 fans; mine keeps plugging along very well for contesting and DXing. See you on-the-air with it during RTTY Roundup and again from KH6-land next year. 73, John, N7ON K2 #5023 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Panel Screws - I'm Not Alone
Yet again, from tonight's reflector digest: So - Now after two mod processes plus installation of the KRX3, my cabinet screws are starting to show a little wear. Maybe Elecraft should offer a small kit that just includes replacement cabinet screws (top-and side-cover especially) for those of us who keep taking our K3s apart. Phil - AD5X Here, here! Those screws heads are too malleable, a few of yours are showing wear and tear. I wish I'd ordered a full set of them -- they're cheap. Maybe they'll be offered by Elecraft. They did give me better side panel heat sink screws (two) for the K2. Aptos finally realized the initial pair weren't good for repeated assembly and disassembly. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Internal Digital Modes
I am normally a 99.9 % lurker on the Elecraft list since I find most of the information I am interested in without further cluttering up things, but here is one I haven't seen discussed. Will the CW decoder show your outgoing (real time - not message memories) sending? My MFJ 495 keyer does this and I have found it to be a VERY helpful feature. John, K4JDW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Trouble
Fellow Elecrafters-- This morning I tested a few things with my "dead" K2/100. K2/100 configuration: no response at power-on, power supplied via KPA100 J3. KPA100 heat sink warms. All power pole connections checked. 13.9V from the Samlex 1223 power supply. 2V or so detected were detected at the interior J3 leads. Basic K2 test: all functions are normal, receive and transmit, all menu items are normal. E = 13.6, i = .38. All internal accessories work (160m, SSB, noise blanker). K2 with KPA100 connected, power supplied through K2 J3: rig turns on, all functions are normal. KPA100 fan runs for a minute or so. Normal receive and QRP transmit, internal SWR bridge works. All primary and secondary menu items appear normal. PA "E" message is normal, "12." E = 13.6, i = .38. No scorching or shorts detected. I'll only remove the KPA100 heat sink if I have to, but no visible signs of a problem after exploring underneath it with a miniature LED. The KPA100 has been in use for a little more than a year without problems. The trouble began yesterday afternoon as I was testing a receive antenna. I switched power supplies from my regular Samlex to a regulated supply I've used with the K2/100 in the past. All connections were carefully checked. One thing I failed to check was the power supply output -- it worked the last time I used it so I didn't bother (an important lesson learned). I've checked the regulated power supply output voltage after the KPA100 failure and it's only 1 - 2 volts. Something happened somewhere. All was well with the regulated-supply K2/100 as I checked out a receive antenna for about 30 minutes. I never transmitted while the regulated supply was connected. I turned the rig off while working on an outdoor antenna. When I returned to the shack, the rig wouldn't turn on and I noticed the heat sink was slightly warm. Here's where I am: the basic K2 checks out fine. Some functions of the KPA100 work when it's attached to the basic K2 (fan, SWR meter). No visible damage is apparent inside the KPA100. I don't have a clue where to start. My K2/100 technical skills have diminished in the time since I completed the rig. I'll have a chance to work on the rig again this evening. Any suggestions where to start would be appreciated. Are there any specific component failures I should look for after a problem somewhere in the DC input path caused by a faulty power supply? 73, John, N7ON K2/100 #5023 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 - Won't Turn On
Fellow Elecrafters-- I've gone and done something to K2/100 #5023. Symptom: rig won't turn on. Heat detected atop heat sink with Samlex power supply cable attached. Hum from power supply after attaching the power cable to the K2. Normal voltage detected at the end of the power supply line; 2 volts or so detected when checking the J3 leads inside the radio. Normal continuity between the + and - power supply posts and the + and - leads of J3. Power supply: Samlex 1223. This morning XU7ACY was on an 80m power supply birdie and I never worked him. This afternoon when I got home I decided to switch to a regulated supply I've used before with this K2. After attaching the rig to the regulated supply it received normally for about 45 minutes while I tested an 80m receive loop. I turned off the rig, went outside to work on my transmit antenna, returned inside and tried to turn on the rig -- nothing. While checking to see if all cables were installed properly I noticed the KPA100 heat sink was warm. The only other anomaly recently has been a stiffness in S1, the power switch. I've tested and cleaned the power pole connectors and all is well there. I'm a decent builder but _not_ experienced at troubleshooting. Any ideas where I should start? Thanks in advance and 73, John, N7ON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 Modifications
Scott-- Unpack the box and build the kit; you'll be glad you did. Your posting included excellent questions posed by many first-time Elecraft builders, and it's provided an opportunity for the Elecraft community to assure you you've made a wise purchase. I was the perfect example of a novice kit builder when my K2 arrived last year. After enjoying construction of the rig and several options, I've never been happier with a rig. If I buy a second rig it's going to be another K2/100. I've had no trouble with my rig, and no modifications have been necessary. I was concerned when the recent KPA100 modification was announced. However, I learned it isn't necessary for most K2/100's, only for those who've experienced particular symptoms. That speaks volumes for Elecraft support--they've responded to user needs; some need the mod, others don't. Furthermore, one of the guys responsible for the mod responded to my query and convinced me I don't need it--yet another example of Elecraft reflector support. Sometimes reading the reflector is like opening a medical textbook and becoming convinced you have every disease known to man; everything that _can_ happen to an Elecraft rig shows up on the reflector. You expressed concern over the rework necessary when installing options. With the full K2 construction under your belt, the one or two components that typically need taken out and the addition of a connector on the K2 RF board are easy. Option installation isn't so much a re-work as it is just another construction step of the basic rig. It's a lot simpler to do than it may appear in the manual. Read and re-read the manual. That way no aspect of construction will surprise you and you'll be aware of any potentially difficult portions of construction. It'll usually turn out that what appears daunting in the manual turns out to be no problem at all. With Elecraft technical staff and reflector experts just an e-mail away, you have a tremendous support staff available both before and after you open the box. Just follow the instructions, don't work while tired, and perform all tests. You'll end up with a top-of-the-line rig. 73, John, N7ON K2/100 #5023 + noise blanker, SSB module, 160m module + more to come P.S. I'm not technically inclined, but I took lots of photographs during construction. Let me know if you need to see anything. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
