Re: [Elecraft] AC/DC pwr. sup. for KX1?

2011-07-07 Thread John Young
My MFJ-4103 has also been noise free.  Use it with K1, KX1 and Flex-1500

73 John
-- 
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired


On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 4:43 PM, Bob Nielsen n...@clearwire.net wrote:

 I have not experienced this with my MFJ-4103, but I suspect that there is a
 fair amount of unit-to-unit variation in many MFJ products.

 Bob, N7XY

 On Jul 7, 2011, at 1:29 PM, Sante - IK0HBN wrote:

  Hi John,
  go and visit the review of MFJ-4103 at eham.net and you will discover
  that such a power supply generates a lot of noise into RX...
  Hope this help.
  Ciao
  Sante
  owner of an economic wall wart with a light mod  (just adding a 7812
  regulator).
  That did the trick for my kx1, but choice a power supply that can
  deliver around 17 V so to have the right amount of voltage dissipated
  into 7812.
 
 
  At 13.34 07/07/2011, you wrote:
  Thanks so much for these replies and addressing my question in such a
  helpful way. Most things electric are still a deep mystery to me, so
  I'm moving slowly and cautiously.
 
  73
 
  ~John KK4BOB
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 5:15 PM, John Flynn gio.fl...@gmail.com wrote:
  Good Day All,
 
  New to KX1. I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations for a wall wart
  for this rig. Tnx.
 
  73
 
  ~John
  KK4BOB
 
 
 
 
  --
  John Flynn
  Tallahassee, Florida
  USA
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 N7XY DX Cluster Node - telnet to n7xy.net, port 7300





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Re: [Elecraft] AC/DC pwr. sup. for KX1?

2011-07-06 Thread John Young
MFJ-4103 http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-4103works
for me

73 John

On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 5:15 PM, John Flynn gio.fl...@gmail.com wrote:

 Good Day All,

 New to KX1. I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations for a wall wart
 for this rig. Tnx.

 73
 --
 John D Young
 WA8KNE
 ETC USN retired




 ~John
 KK4BOB
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: soldering leads to coin cell batteries

2009-12-19 Thread John Young
I salvage the holders from old computer mother boards.  Saves risking
explosion of the coin cell

73  John

-- 
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired

On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 10:11 AM, Ken Alexander k.alexan...@rogers.comwrote:


 Hi John,

 If the leads on the existing cells are thin metal strips then they probably
 won't come off with a soldering iron.  They're usually welded on during the
 manufacturing process.

 You might try Mouser or Digi-Key to see if you can find a battery holder it
 would slip into.  The holder would have leads that are easy to connect to.

 73,

 Ken Alexander
 VE3HLS


 --- On Sat, 12/19/09, John Ferguson jferg...@yahoo.com wrote:

  From: John Ferguson jferg...@yahoo.com
  Subject: [Elecraft] OT: soldering leads to coin cell batteries
  To: elecr...@mailman.qth..net
  Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:35 PM
  Does anyone here have experience
  soldering leads to coin cell batteries?
  My Compaq Armada M300 needs a new cmos battery.  the
  present one is a 2032 with 2 leads and a molex plug.
 
  my scheme is to put the needle point on my trusty WTCP,
  remove the leads from the old battery, sand them and tin
  them and using the flux I used for the smt project, quickly
  as in QUICKLY touch the point to the leads.
 
  Why not?
 
  AI4TO  John Ferguson m/v arcadian
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] K1:potential new product

2008-01-09 Thread John Young
I think it would be a hard sell for me.  Going from 55ma to 135ma -
about 145% increase in current drain on receive.  It may be good at
home but looks like it would eat batteries for field use.

If the DSP can be done at a much lower current it would be an interesting idea.

73
John



-- 
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired




On Jan 9, 2008 11:27 PM, Benny Aumala [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 To have a DSP Noice Reduction and AF-filter
 in K1 you might put this Low Power Board inside K1:

 http://www.sgcworld.com/ADSPProductPage.html


 Benny   oh9nb

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Astron RS-20A Issue

2007-08-26 Thread John Young
Lee
   Was the rise to 15.5 with or without a load?  How much load were you using?

73 John
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired

On 8/26/07, Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ladies and Gents

 I repaired an RS-20A recently.  The balancing resistors from the pass 
 transistors had burned up because someone put a 15 amp fuse on the primary 
 side with a load more that 16 to 20 amp on the 13.8 volt side.

 Not ever done this before, I made sure the 723 was set at 13.8 volts and then 
 used a 12 volt light as a load.  She regulated quite well.

 But now, the regulation voltage has increase to 15.5 volts.  This happened 
 over a 24 hour period.  This does not seem right to me...and I wonder what 
 some of you thing about this.


 Lee - K0WA



 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't 
 find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  
 Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread John Young

I've not had a problem - yet,

Has anyone tried painting the rough areas with a little clear nail polish?
Seems simpler than trying to sand or drill and should not affect the inductance.

73 John
WA8KNE



Clark Macaulay wrote:
 Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able to find 
it in the archives nor in the manual.

   I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, while 
finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the turns had crossed 
over the previous one, so I began to unwind it. Then I noticed that the wire had 
the enamel nicked in several places and chose to replace it.

   In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may have been pulling the winding too 
tight. Currently, I'm pushing the wire through the center of the core rather than 
pulling it so as to keep it away from the core to minimize scratching it. Obviously, 
though, it's not possible to know if the winding has been scratching in making the bend around inside.

   So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern much ado about 
nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I noticed there are LONG leads after winding 
that could indicate the turns are too tight)?

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--
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired
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Re: [Elecraft] Spilling the HF beans .....

2007-03-03 Thread John Young

On 3/3/07, Sam Morgan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Fred (FL) wrote:
 Without spilling the beans, or showing one's hand -
 could Elecraft give us a better view of how new
 products may happen in the future?  Does Elecraft
 have a goal of other transceivers, updated transceiver
 products?  Could (could) there be new near-term
 HF product kits in the future.  Or is the K2, it?
 Could there be a K3 kit, sometime in the near future?


If my memory is still working I recall Osbone made a very nice CP/M
computer in the dark ages.  When the owner announced that the next
model would be IBM PC compatible, all orders for the CP/M system ended
and the company went broke.

I would rather had a good company like Elecraft than know surprises
they have for us.

72 John
K1 and KX1

--
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired
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[Elecraft] test message

2006-12-18 Thread John Young

moved to a new email service
John
WA8KNE
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[Elecraft] Dead band + RF = QSO

2006-10-03 Thread John Young

   This is nothing new but it bears repeating.
   I  had  the  day off today.  After replacing the wire in my 40m loop I
   made sure the K1 could tune up on 7/14/21.
   After  checking  15 and  hearing nothing I started the sending CQ with
   the keyer in repeat mode while cleaning
   the  shack.   After  about 20 minutes of calling with no answer, my RF
   must have pumped up the ionosphere to a
   point  where  contacts were possible.  I was answered by Sy, K6PWP, in
   Ventura CA.  Coast to coast on a dead
   band  at the bottom of the sunspot cycle while running QRP to a simple
   wire antenna.
   I  must  be  dreaming  - everyone KNOWS it takes lots of power and big
   antennas to make contacts.
   John
   WA8KNE
   Jacksonville, FL
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Re: [Fwd: [elecraft] Elecraft KX1 featured at Pacifcon 2006 HFpack Forum Oct. 14th Saturday]

2006-09-18 Thread John Young

I want more information on the 20m loop antenna.
Sounds like fun.  Wish I could be there.

73 John
WA8KNE


Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

 Original Message 
Subject: [elecraft] Elecraft KX1 featured at Pacifcon 2006 HFpack 
Forum Oct. 14th Saturday

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 18:52:27 -
From: wb6mlc [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Hi gang,
The HFpack HF Portable Group is very pleased to welcome Elecraft
to our forum at Pacificon 2006 at the San Ramon, CA Marriott. Wayne, 
N6KR and Eric, WA6HHQ are our featured guest speakers this year.

The title of their segment will be,  Ultra-Portable HFpacking with
the KX1.  Following their talk, local HFpackers will be conducting 
our first KX1 Pow-Wow,which features live in the room QSO's with 
Pedestrian mobile KX1's. We will be using amplified speakers and extra

wireless PA mics so everyone can hear the CW. Also, an Open discussion
forum combined with a Powerpoint presentation of HFpackers using their
KX1's wraps up the Pow-Wow.
Real users will discuss the following topics:

1) Is building the KX1 easy? How long does it take?

2) How does one pack the KX1 when portable or Pedestrian Mobile?

For the in the room live QSO's,  we are designing a broadband wire 
loop for 20M coupled with a ferrite transformer to a BNC

male connector. This loop was recently tested at a NorCal Meeting
with good results. The compact loop should be efficient enough to
work throughout the Marriott hotel, and is easy for the internal
antenna tuner to match. Our goal is to use the KX1's like handheld
HT's during the convention for fun.
KX1 owners, and newbies should attend our forum to see Wayne and Eric 
speak, and to participate in the discussion. Bring your KX1's and toss 
a wire into the trees during our HFpack Zombie

Walk in the Marriott Parking lot. We operate Pedestrian Mobile HF
around 10PM on Saturday,and had worked many stations on 40M running
only 5 watts. Last year we worked stations 900 miles away. Some
HFpackers may be using their KX1's Pedestrian mobile with backpack
mounted antennas.  
At the end of the entire forum, we will be conducting a Door Prize

Raffle with donations from Elecraft, LDG, SuperAntennas, Buddipole
Antennas, HFprojects kits, Doug Hendrick's kits, and Norcal. All we 
ask is that you must be PRESENT to WIN during the raffle.

So if you are interested in buying an Elecraft KX1, or wish to see
what others are doing when portable, or Pedestrian Mobile, the HFpack
Technology Forum is not to be missed.
73,
Ken WB6MLC  HFpack Events Coordinator

PS.. It would be greatly appreciated if the moderator could cross
post the above announcement to the regular Elecraft Reflector. :-)


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Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation

2006-09-03 Thread John Young

Paul
  I think meters are like shirts - one size does NOT fit all.  I have 
my 20 year old Fluke 73, several $2.99 Harbor Freight DMMs and some in 
between.  Each fills a need.  In the case of the Harbor Freight it is 
almost cheaper to buy a new meter than replace the 9v battery.  When you 
blow up a cheap meter you can just pull out a spare and get back to work.


73 John
WA8KNE


Paul Neuman wrote:
I looking to purchase a decent DMM and would appreciate any 
recommendations of  specific models. I've had two crappy Radio Shack 
DMMs blow up on me.  Each time I bought one, I promised myself it was 
only until I could get something good ordered and then promptly put it 
off.  Well now I'm DMM-less again and I'm in the middle of installing my 
3080 option.


I'm looking through the Mouser catalog and there are so many choices.  I 
guess I can't go wrong with a Fluke.  Would like something for $100 but 
I don't want to be buying one again in two months.


No HV or special requirements.  Thanks in advance.

Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendation

2006-09-03 Thread John Young

Raj
   Good point on the refresh time.  I never liked tuning for a peak or 
dip using a digital meter.  Guess my analog brain doesn't like living in 
a digital world.  I've picked up old analog VTVMs for a buck or two at 
hamfests and converted them to FET op amps in place of the tubes.  Zero 
drift/warm up and all the advantages of an analog meter that runs on a 
9v battery.


If there is any interest I will write it up after I retire at the 
end of this year.  Looking forward to more time for what I WANT to do.


73 John
WA8KNE


Rajiv Dewan, N2RD wrote:
One of the characteristics I look for is response time / refresh time / 
time to read.  It is much easier to make adjustments that depend on 
measured voltage or resistance if the meter quicks refreshes the 
readings.  Some multimeters, especially some of the Flukes, are 
excellent in this regard.  For example Fluke 170 series will detect open 
and short conditions as short as 250 micro seconds.  It also has a loud 
beeper and I find it to be a great continuity checker.


Regards,
Raj, N2RD
K2 #5613

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Tilt Bail Alternative

2006-09-02 Thread John Young

David
  I got a pair of laptop legs

http://www.ugeek.com/hwswrev/hardware/laplegs/index.htm

For my K1 I only used one in the center of the front edge.  I only 
allowed the glue to attach to the bottom cover which allows the front 
panel to be removed.  I don't have a place to post pictures yet but 
could send them direct.


73 John
WA8KNE


David Toepfer wrote:

I was looking at the Elecraft Picture Gallery
(http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm) and at the bopttom I saw a
couple of pics of DL2DE's K2
(http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm,
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/newpics5/dl2de_k2side.jpg) with some
sort of flip feet that I would like to get a pair of for my future K1.  Does
anyone know where I could get a pair of these?

David, k3tue
.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX 1 VFO noise

2006-08-29 Thread John Young

Mike
  I'm not sure this is the same noise you are hearing...

While the display on my KX1 is lit, I hear a static like noise.  
Reducing the brightness of the display to about half cuts
out all the noise.  My guess is I am hearing the digital signal that 
strobes the multiplexed LED display.  By reducing the

brightness the noise is too low to be a problem.

73 John
WA8KNE

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I sent an email to the group yesterday and received a reply stating that the mailbox was full??  So, I'll resend my request for help.  
I haven't used my KX1 since I completed assembly a few weeks ago. At that time 
all seemed well. In preparation for a trip I got the unit out to test it. I 
found that as the VFO was tuned a popping or clicking noise is heard each 
time the display moves. It sounds like statis from a counter?? I seem to recall seeing this mentioned by the group 
but I can't find a reference. Any ideas? External battery voltage is 
approximately 12.4 volts. Internal batteries are low, but I still hear the sound.  Thanks, 
Mike K4ELV



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Re: [Elecraft] Thanks ref - Antenna wire question for long spans

2006-08-18 Thread John Young

John  others

I am going to go in another direction on wire size for long spans.

I have been using the silky #18 and #26 from the wireman for all my
antennas.  The trick for keeping them
up is to use a Dacron rope for a messenger line that supports the very
light wire.  With the rope strung between
the supports with a lot of slack, I attach small rings of gray PVC
pipe.  A small loop of the rope is pushed through
the ring and then the ring is passed through the loop.  The antenna wire
is hung in the rings with any feed line supported
by the rope.  The wire carries no weight.

When the trees sway in the wind the rope can break.  I just let it, but
force it to break where I want.
I make a loop with about 3 ft of the rope and tie it with a short length
of cotton line.  The cotton being
weaker than the Dacron will break first allowing the loop to add about 3
ft of slack to the antenna.

73 John
WA8KNE


n0evh wrote:

Wow, I have read this reflector now for about four years.  I always enjoy the
responses given to the many who post needs/questions.  But, when you post one
of your own and get this fabulous reply on the reflector and many others to
your email account...geeze what a great group of hams!

Thanks for the bandwidth and slightly off topic question.  I feel confident we
can hoist a durable antenna at our EOC here in Independence, Missouri.  BTW our
website of activities is here -

http://www.birch.net/~jwatkins/IndependenceRACES.html

73's to all,

John N0EVH K2#2006 and KX1#802

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 or KX1?

2006-06-21 Thread John Young
The true correct answer is - both.  I have both and find each has it's 
place.


73 John
WA8KNE


Jim Murray wrote:

Hello all,
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1.  
I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1.  Aside from size and portability is 
there any difference in performance in the two?  I can work with either one but 
would prefer the one with best performance.  K2 next- can't find much that 
beats it.
Tnx, Jim/k2hn
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 screw

2006-06-17 Thread John Young

Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit to use on the paddle 
screw?...And, if they did have one, it would not be necessary to thread it onto 
the screw beforehand...

Jerry, wa2dkg


I for one have dies and taps from 4-40 to at least 3/8-24 plus a few 
metrics.  Given enough projects over enough years, a tool box will grow,

until it contains every tool, except the one you need for todays project.

The other side of my garage is just the same but with parts.

This repeats until we reach the status of SK.

73 and happy father's day, take the time to enjoy the best part of our 
lives.


John  WA8KNE

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft balun

2006-04-29 Thread John Young

Fred
  You didn't give many details of the antenna but my first thought is 
use the same type of balun at the feedpoint of each antenna and don't 
worry about the delay.



73 John
WA8KNE


Indy wrote:
I want to use my Elecraft BL-1 1:1 balun on field day.  


The balun would serve as center insulator, but the coax line plugged into it is 
a phasing line.

Here is my question:  Will the windings on the balun, introduced between the 
antenna and the phasing line, effectively increase the length of the phasing 
line?

I think it will, and I am wondering by how much to shorten my phasing line to 
account for it.  I think the windings are six to seven inches in length and 
would imagine the velocity factor to be high.

73

Fred - kt5x
K2 # 700
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[Elecraft] KX1 temporally deaf

2006-04-17 Thread John Young
This weekend I ran some test at a portable site our club will use to 
demo ham radio to about 50 youths.


We set up a Kenwood TS430, tuner and  20 meter dipole running on AC 
power.  I setup my KX1 with a
33 foot vertical with 33 foot counterpoise on the ground.  A third 
operator ran a DC-40 with a random wire

on the ground.

When I set up the KX1 I was copying a station in the MIQP near 7040.  
Before I could call him I heard
a very load station on 7040 with lots of signal while key up.  It was 
the DC-40.  After a short QSO, short in both
time and distance, I walked away from the rig for a few minutes.  When I 
returned the KX1 had no audio

out.

I tried 3 sets of earphones and also confirmed the phones were working 
with another source.  The KX1
didn't even have sidetone.  I assumed I had a failure of the audio out 
stage and suspected damage when

the TS430 tuned up at 100w on 20.

I packed things up and headed home where I checked the schematic before 
opening the case.  All that is
common to sidetone and receive audio is the last audio IC and volume 
control.  The XG1 showed a normal
S meter reading with 1 and 50 microvolts.  With the cover off I started 
touching parts around the input to the
audio amp listening for hum.  I got hum at the input of the amp.  

S meter and hum called for connecting an antenna.  At first I was not 
hearing much but over about 30 minutes
the receiver seemed to have recovered and I was able to work Tampa from 
Jacksonville on 7026 with no problem.


I have been playing with electronics and radio for fun and profit for 
well over 40 years.  I don't like things that
'fix themselves.'  Anyone have any ideas what might have happened?  
Could a high RF level cause temporary
deafness?  Keep in mind, this is a KX1 that landed 9Y0X on 20 after only 
40 minutes. N6VX operating - I'll

never be that class DXer.

72 John
WA8KNE


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on 17 meters?

2006-04-06 Thread John Young

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

NowKX1 or K1
73's,
Pete wd4lst
  


Both works for me
John WA8KNE

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Re: [Elecraft] magnet wire

2006-03-25 Thread John Young

I just checked the wire I got from http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html
 IS heat strip-able.  800F works fine.

John
WA8KNE


Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

The magnet wire that Mouser sells is heat strip-able (Beldsol insulated), but 
not all magnet wire is heat strip-able...The magnet wire RS used to sell was 
not heat strip-able...The insulation on this wire is called Formvar and is 
suited for high temperature applications such as electric motors and power 
transformers...It must be mechanically or chemically stripped...Heat strip-able 
wire would fail under the high heat conditions encountered in some electric 
motors, like in power saws...The commutator connections in these motors are not 
soldered, they are swagged...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080

2006-03-18 Thread John Young

Yes  It arrived in Friday's mail.
Don't know   have not had the time to clear the bench to start.

73 John
WA8KNE


John J. Lally wrote:

Has anyone received their KXB3080 kit yet?  How did building and install go?

John Lally
W7JJL
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange: KXAT1: SWR goes up, but so does forward power?? +Baluns

2006-03-14 Thread John Young

Martin
Some basic things that can never be repeated too often.

   Any watt meter will only read correctly when connected to the load 
it is designed for.  The power
readings of forward power must be made into a 50 ohm resistive load.  
Your 4.2:1 SWR could be 210 ohm

(4.2 x 50) or 12 ohms (50/4.2).

The dipole will show something in the ballpark of 50 ohms.  When 
connected to 32 ft of 300 ohm feed line,
your radio and tuner will see something close to 1500-2000 ohms which is 
out of the range of the tuner.


A 40 meter dipole will not tune well on 30 or 20. 

Strange as it sounds using an antenna that is not resonant on any of the 
bands can work better than one that
is resonant on one band.  Try 25 ft of wire going up the pole and 16 ft 
of wire laying on the ground.  connect both

directly to the binding post to BNC adapter and let us know how it works.

Don't worry about sounding like a beginner - I've been a beginner for 
over 40 years and still learning.


73
John
WA8KNE


Martin Gillen wrote:

Hi,

I recently built a W1CG low power balun (Guanella 4:1 two-core design).

I'm pretty new to amateur radio and my on-air results were pretty
confusing to me
so I was hoping someone could help me understand what is or may be going on
here:

For these tests I was using an inverted vee dipole, each leg 32ft
(64ft total length),
fed in the center with 32ft radio shack 300 ohm twinlead, held aloft
by a 20ft fiberglass
fishing pole, with the ends held 6ft off the ground by fiberglass
driveway markers.

Rig was a KX1 with KXAT1 ATU.  Forward power and SWR readings taken from
the KXAT1 (ie. no external metering).

I started by connecting the twinlead directly to the KX1 using a binding post to
BNC adapter.  I was able to tune the radio on 40m, 30m and 20m to under 1.5:1
SWR, often 1.0:1.  Power out read as:

1.5W on 40m
3W on 30m
2W on 20m

I then replaced the binding post to BNC adapter with the 4:1 balun.  Now the SWR
increased on all 3 bands:

1.8:1 on 40m.
3.2:1 on 30m.
4.2:1 on 20m.

On 20m and 30m there was a noticeable attenuation of signals but 40m
sounded fine.

So... so far it looks like the antenna simply didn't need the
impedance transformation,
and has degraded all 3 bands.

I gave up on 20m and 30m with the balun due to the high SWR.

However the odd thing I noticed was that the forward power reported by the KXAT1
on 40m had increased to 3W!

So... I established contact with a station and asked him how my signal
sounded with
and without the balun.

Here is the summary:

Without Balun:

KXAT1 SWR 1.0:1
KXAT1 Forward Power 1.5W
Signal report: 579

With Balun:

KXAT1 SWR 1.8:1
KXAT1 Forward Power 3W
Signal report: 599+

I switched the balun in and out a few times to accound for fading.

So I am left confused.  Why did the SWR go up if the forward power
also went up?

My working theory is that the antenna fairly well matched already on all 3 bands
but unbalanced.  Adding the 4:1 balun had two effects:  (1) Impedance
transformation
(2) Balance the transmission line ( dipole).  The impedance
transformation wasn't
actually required and actually placed the impedance outside the KXAT1 matching
range on 20m/30m, and degraded the SWR on 40m, but the balancing of the
transmission line meant more energy radiates from the dipole elements and not
from the transmission line.

So the data seems to be telling me that this antenna could really use
a 1:1 balun.

What am I missing??

:)

73
Martin.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1- 80m and random wire

2006-02-27 Thread John Young

Until I get the KX1-8030 installed this is just speculation - so FWIW.
I have ordered the Altoids Longwire Antenna Tuner from www.qrpkits.com. 
For $30 you get a small L network tuner with a max 16uh and 270pf.  As is,

the cap is only at the output end, but that can be made switchable
to put it at the input side when needed.

If the KXAT1 can't tune my antenna on 80 I will try the ALT as a
'pre-tuner'.

73  John
WA8KNE


Pierre Desjardins wrote:

Hi Elecrafters,

For field operations with a KX/40.30.20m, I currently use a 28 feet 
random
wire at the end of a 22 feet pole, and an single 16 feet radial on 
ground.

The computed impedance is 89 - j 341 ohms  at 7 MHz,  matched by the
KXAT1.

However, at the low end of 80 m, it should be around 54 - j 1316 ohms, 
giving very high SWR. Can the ATU match such values?


   72, de VE2PID
   KX1 s/n 442
   K2/100 s/n 5170


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[Elecraft] KX1 without the 30m board

2006-02-16 Thread John Young
N6VX has my KX1 and has worked 3Y0X on 20.  When he said he wanted to 
try the same on 30,
I informed him my KX1 did not cover 30.  His reply - I've been working 
DX on 30.
Seems he just enabled B30 menu option to see if it would work.  Output 
was 3 watts, same as 40  20.
The receiver was not as sensitive but was 'good enough' to work a few DX 
stations.


Without the 30m or 80/30m board you will have low sensitivity and I have 
no idea what the output looks
like on a spectrum analyzer.  I plan to get the 80/30 board as soon as 
it comes out, but in a pinch this just

might work.

If you have a KX1 and the right test equipment, let the list know how 
well this works.


John  WA8KNE

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[Elecraft] 3Y0X with KX-1

2006-02-15 Thread John Young

I loaned my KX-1 to N6VX to take a shot at Peter I.
Rob is my brother-in-law, retired with more time, more antenna, and lots 
more skill at CW DX
than I ever hope to have.  He got the KX-1 late Monday and sent me this 
email Wednesday morning.


We hope to have the QSL at FDIM.

John
WA8KNE

==

Hello John,

They were not on 20m CW yesterday, but we worked them on 14.023 mHz at 
1358Z this morning with your KX1.


The propagation was not the best, with the path going downhill, but, 
after about 40 minutes,

they did come back to N6VX/QRP.

Hope we show up in their log. Will mail the QSL card request today.

Decided that I wanted just a few more bells and whistles, so I changed 
my Elecraft order to the K1-4B.


Rob
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[Elecraft] test

2006-02-06 Thread John Young

have seen nothing on the list all day.

John
WA8KNE
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[Elecraft] K1 Backlight

2005-09-12 Thread John Young
I love it.  It's nice to sit in the darkened shack late at night with 
only the sound of CW and the faint glow of the display.


I was able to use a razor saw and miter box for cutting to length.  
http://www.micromark.com search for miter box


I made the cut in two steps - cutting from both sides to avoid chipping 
the surface.



John
WA8KNE

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Re: [Elecraft] WTB tilt stand--K1 (accessories and correction)

2005-06-19 Thread John Young

Sandy
   I have hunted the elecraft website and can't find the mod you are 
refering to.  Do you have the URL?


Thanks
John
WA8KNE
K1 #1991

Sandy wrote:

RE: The Backlight!!

Check the website technical topics for the K1.  There is a simple mod. that 
uses two
very bright white LEDs to illuminate the display.  It works great and only adds 
20 ma. to the drain.
Well worth it at night.

73,
Sandy W5TVW


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Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?

2005-05-08 Thread John Young

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.  I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler.  1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output.  I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ.  
 
If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set?  I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my fist and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it.
 
comments?
 
regards,  John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward)
 
 


John
   I am sure everyone will have an opinion and they will all be 
different. So here goes mine along with some background.


   In the early 70's I had and instrutograph (sp) that used paper tape 
to send code at any speed you set the motor drive to.  Much like the 
computer generated code practice today.


   I made an offer to make code tapes for anyone that sent me a 
cassette.  A high school student call and I became an Elmer via 
telephone.  After several months of learning the code from the tapes I 
met him in person and gave him the novice code test which he passed with 
a perfect copy.  I was not required to test his sending but I had a CPO 
and key with me and had him try sending for his very first time.


   What he sent sounded like it was machine sent.  It was the only code 
he had ever heard.  He passed his novice, upgraded and kept his first 
call for over 30 years.  He also started with QRP and has stayed with it.


   My point is don't buy any key until you know the code and can copy 
with out effort at over 10 wpm.  Only then buy the paddles and keyer. 
There are far too many people who think the know the code who should be 
forced to copy their own sending.


   That young man was WB6JBM who was a founder of the Flying Pigs QRP Club.

73
John
WA8KNE



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Re: [Elecraft] K1

2005-05-02 Thread John Young

Tom Hall wrote:


I've already built a K2 and KX1 and I am quite happy with them. Can someone
give me a perfectly good excuse to build a K1? (...Please:-))



Tom, AK2B

 


Why do you need an excuse?

John
WA8KNE
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K1 (K2)

2005-04-14 Thread John Young

Mike Markowski wrote:


As an aside, Ten-Tec does just that with their Jupiter 538 rig.  The 538
comes with so-so knobs, but TT offers an upgrade set for those who want
to buy them.  So there's a precedent...and rubber bands in the meantime.
:-)

Mike  AB3AP
Avondale, PA
K2 #4834
 

Rubber bands sound good to me - being that I am cheap.  A good source of 
some custom rubber bands is a bicycle intertube.  Pick a size tube and 
just cut a section to meet your needs.  I have used them to close HT 
battery packs that have been rebuilt.  You can adjust the strength by 
changing the width of the section you cut.  I can see cutting one about 
as wide as the knob is deep.


Some time I will tell of the joys of garbage eve.

John
WA8KNE

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