[Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham
Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner. Several basic questions: 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W. What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery? I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise. 73, KC2VNI. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253024.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] New K3 User and New Ham
Thanks for the many fine comments. I only have the 1 tall tree. It is approximately 25-30 feet high. It is dead so there is no way I am going to harm it (accordingly, this is not a concern). Here's the "take-away" I got from reading your many fine suggestions thus far: - Make sure you do some research on the type of antenna you want to get. (I am an electrical engineer by background but RF engineering and antennas is NOT my strong suit.) - Make sure you get some height to your antenna. I purchased the Buddi Pole system BUT I understand that any form of antenna like this is NOT going to give you good performance. - It is probably a good idea to use some of the local hams here to get some help with the antenna system as they can help out with picking this. - Battery power may or may not be appropriate for continuous operations of the equipment. - I am not so concerned about getting a "Ferrari" for a radio as my 1st one (in lieu of something closer to a Chevy) as I believe that the manual is fairly well laid out. The big concern here is context. Example: it's nice to know HOW to perform an alignment of the radio BUT the question for the beginner is "What does alignment actually do?". -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4256584.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] RE: New K3 User and New Ham
Mike: I don't have any form of power supply. From my brief discussion with the tech over at Elecraft, he recommended the RS-35A from Astron. In this instance, I did look at the Western Mountain Radio unit you have below. I wanted to make sure I understand something: that the radio can be supplied from 120VAC from this unit OR you can use it to supply power from an external battery as you mentioned below. Is this the case? Original Message Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham From: "Mike B-12 [via Elecraft]" <ml-node+4253206-516824...@n2.nabble.com> Date: Mon, January 04, 2010 9:26 pm To: KC2VNI <st...@smarrano.com> Good evening, Steve. As for item #2, you'll likely find that even with a 100 AH battery, the voltage will drop rather quickly at 100 watts. And as the voltage drops, the current consumption will rise to keep the output the same, even more rapidly draining the battery. I would suggest: 1) consider using lower power. You'll likely find that running at 50 watts (or less, particularly on CW or PSK) will net you essentially the same number of QSOs, at far less power consumption. 2) run 2 batteries in parallel (in this case, 12 volt batteries). That will help keep the voltage up by spreading the load across more than one battery. 3) even if running parallel batteries, consider a battery booster from MFJ or http://stores.tgelectron ics.org/StoreFront.bok I have not tried either, but I think QST did a review of 2 models some time back. By far the easiest (and most common) type of large battery to use is a sealed lead acid. Technically called Valve-Regulated Lead Acid, but more commonly called "gel cells" or AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat). While there are slight charging differences between gel & AGMs which need to be observed, for our purposes here either will work the same. These are NOT automotive batteries, but rather true deep cycle batteries. Perhaps you already know this, but automotive batteries have many, thin lead plates that give a lot of surface area. This is great for sudden, short periods of high current draw, like starting your car, but very bad for long-term discharge (like leaving your headlights or radio on). True deep cycle batteries are essentially the opposite, made with fewer but thicker lead plates, and generally poor at very high current di scharges, but great at running smaller loads long term. Some AGM batteries on the market now will work as starting batteries, too, but that's not relevant for our needs. If you're on a tight budget, a car battery will work at low power for a while, but you'll quickly want a better battery. The batteries labeled as "deep cycle" at the big stores generally are NOT deep cycle - it's just marketing. You'll likely have to go to a real battery store, though the some of Optima line of batteries are deep cycle, and can be found at Sears, among other shops. The gel- & AGM-style batteries are sealed to the point where you can't add water, but if over-charged will vent gas. However, with a quality charger, this is a non-issue and these batteries are approved for in-home use (think electric scooters and wheelchairs). This is an example of a quality, American-made AGM battery: http://www.sunxtender.com/ We've used these at work for our remote weather sites fo r the last 5 years or so, and have been quite happy with them (no financial relation, yada yada yada). The PVX-1040T size is one we use; it's rated at around 100 AH (at a 20-hour rate), and tend to cost around $230. Not cheap, eh? There are less expensive brands out there, typically made in China. I have zero experience with these. This is a long email (sorry), but food for thought. There are lots of battery choices out there, but since you've picked the top rig, I thought I'd show you one of the top batteries ;-) Once you've got your batteries picked out, get a quality charger. There's no better way to destroy any battery than to cook it (or chronically under-charge it) than with a crappy charger. I'd even venture to say that if you want to save money on batteries now, put the money towards a good charger - it will outlast at least a few sets of batteries. If you already have a power supply, or simply as another option, West M ountain Radio's Super PWRGate works well ( http://westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm ). It needs a power source, but has a charging circuit and essentially works as an uninterruptable power supply for your rig. I bought one 3 or 4 years ago, and it's done a great job of maintaining my batteries. 73, Mike KW1ND __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: [
[Elecraft] [K3] RE: New K3 User and New Ham
Thanks Dave Original Message Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham From: "David Herring-2 [via Elecraft]" <ml-node+4253158-204062...@n2.nabble.com> Date: Mon, January 04, 2010 9:12 pm To: KC2VNI <st...@smarrano.com> You might consider going with a G5RV antenna as a "starter" antenna. It's multiband...80 meters and up to I think 10 meters...your rig has the auto-tuner so any minor matching adjustments will be handled by the tuner just fine. There's no real challenges with the antenna. It's not the "best" antenna in the world, but it will work very well as a simple starter antenna (people have worked the world with them), especially if your tree is high enough. I assume you have 1 tree? If so, then I'm assuming you'll run this in an inverted-vee configuration (center up high as possible, ends slope down from center at a 30 to 45 degree angle). The inverted-v is a little more omni-directional, which again is good fo r a starter antenna. I think key is getting the center up as high as you can. 30 feet? 40 feet? Again, as much height as you can will help (in general). If you are pressed for space, then you can always consider the G5RV jr. It's shorter in length, requires less height, but it only runs 40 meters and up (40 - 10). I believe MFJ has a G5RV. If not, there's plenty other vendors that do. One's pretty much as good as another. The G5RV is simple enough that you could probably even make one yourself... I can't comment too much on the batteries, other than to say I know of people powering their rigs using car batteries and golf cart batteries... Good luck and welcome to Amateur Radio! 73, Dave K6DCH On Jan 4, 2010, at 3:19 PM, KC2VNI wrote: > > Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner. > Several basic questions: > > 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna > pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? > > 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support > from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W. > What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size > fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery? > > I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I > don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a > help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise. > > 73, > > KC2VNI. > > -- > View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253024.html > ; Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto: [hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: [hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html View message @ http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253158.html To unsubscribe from New K3 User and New Ham, click here . -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4278368.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Preparing for the Build of the K3 Kit S/N 3823
I recv'd the K3 and I am reading the instructions. I figured I'd ask some basic questions on a few things before putting tab "A" into slot "B". (I've already looked through the instructions to get an overview of what I should expect and I'll read them again before diving into this) 1) A means to hold the smaller hardware- What types of holders or containers do you guys use to hold the smaller screws? 2) Static electricity-I was going to purchase a static mat with a ground strap. Some questions: - Does anyone have experience with the type of static mat they sell at Radio Shack? - Is it acceptable to work on a wooden table top that has painted metal legs and attach the ground from the mat to the table leg even if it's painted? 3) Multi-Meter: Is an inexpensive Radio Shack unit acceptable for measuring the resistances that are discussed in the assembly manual? Does anyone have suggestions about what model they would use? As a side note, I've got my power supply (an Astron RS-35M) ordered so I'll be able to hopefully conduct at least the "smoke test". The antenna will be the next piece of the puzzle once the smoke test is out of the way. Also, I'd like to pass my compliments along to those of you who've taken the time to post you tube videos of their building experience. It's been helpful. As a general comment that is not of a technical nature, my feeling is that this is going to take me longer than 7-8 hours to build. I'll let you know how I'm progressing and if I have further questions. I thank you in advance for whatever suggestions you may have. 73 KC2VNI Steve -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Preparing-for-the-Build-of-the-K3-Kit-S-N-3823-tp4385677p4385677.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Build Questions
I am on pages 44 and 45 of the assembly manual and have made it through all the steps. In going through the resistance checks, I got the following values: - At the power poles (12VDC), all I got was an infinite resistance no matter which way I made the measured it. - At the R36 test point, I got 239.5 ohms which beats the 150 ohm criteria listed - At the U12 test point, I got 2 different values: a) 4.86 kilo-ohms at the terminal furthest from the blue electrolytic capacitor in the neighborhood of the U12 regulator b) 237.2 ohms at the terminal closest to the blue electrolytic capacitor in the neighborhood of the U12 regulator - At the U13 test point, I got the following: 423 ohms. Question: Am I okay to go ahead and apply power for the initial power on check (aka "smoke test") on page 46? Please advise 73 Steve KC2VNI -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4410947.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Build Questions
Don: I was concerned with the value on U12. Depending on which terminal I was on, the resistance varied. I should have been more specific about the question. Sorry for the confusion. Don Wilhelm-4 wrote: > > Steve, > > The instructions indicate that the listed values are the lowest that > should be measured. The instructions state that greater values than > those listed are quite probable. If the readings are not less than the > listed values, all is OK. > > Greater than means that larger values are OK - smaller values are bad. - > yours are OK. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > KC2VNI wrote: >> I am on pages 44 and 45 of the assembly manual and have made it through >> all >> the steps. In going through the resistance checks, I got the following >> values: >> >> - At the power poles (12VDC), all I got was an infinite resistance no >> matter >> which way I made the measured it. >> >> - At the R36 test point, I got 239.5 ohms which beats the 150 ohm >> criteria >> listed >> >> - At the U12 test point, I got 2 different values: >>a) 4.86 kilo-ohms at the terminal furthest from the blue electrolytic >> capacitor in the neighborhood of the U12 regulator >>b) 237.2 ohms at the terminal closest to the blue electrolytic >> capacitor >> in the neighborhood of the U12 regulator >> >> - At the U13 test point, I got the following: 423 ohms. >> >> >> Question: Am I okay to go ahead and apply power for the initial power on >> check (aka "smoke test") on page 46? >> >> >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4411259.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Build Questions
Also, I should have noted that I could not get a reading at the 12VDC side at all and that concerned me. Any significance there? -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4411263.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] RE: K3 Build Questions
Thanks Don, just wanted to make sure. I am not using a Fluke meter but a cheap one from Radio Shack. When I saw that value was 3K, that's what raised my eyebrows. I'll let you know how I made out. Original Message Subject: Re: K3 Build Questions From: "Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft]" <ml-node+4412071-568022...@n2.nabble.com> Date: Mon, January 18, 2010 1:15 am To: KC2VNI <st...@smarrano.com> Steve, An infinite resistance *is* a valid reading, and is OK. 73, Don W3FPR KC2VNI wrote: > Also, I should have noted that I could not get a reading at the 12VDC side at > all and that concerned me. Any significance there? > > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: [hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html View message @ http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4412071.html To unsubscribe from Re: K3 Build Questions, click here . -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4413783.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Build Questions
Thanks for your responses. I believe I should be okay to turn it on. Please keep in mind that I am not using the best meter (a Radio Shack unit) and it takes a while for the reading to settle down (whether I took the reading in an auto-range or a setting of the specific ranges needed). Typically, the Fluke meters I've used in my process control work are much quicker to settle down (but it's probably because the measuring circuits used are better than what you can expect from Radio Shack for the money I paid). I've not built electronic circuits before and I am obviously concerned that I don't want to inadvertantly set fire to $3K of fine equipment or hurt myself. Next "obvious question" for you: I got an Astron power supply (RS35M) and it is rated for 13.8V about 35amps if memory serves. a) Based on the Owner's Manual page 8, it states that I need about 6A @13.8VDC for the 10W unit (you don't put in the 100W option until later in the build). Do you adjust (in some fashion) the amount of current output needed from the power supply? (I've not gotten the Astron power supply yet- it is hopefully arriving today). I'd think that the answer to my question is "no" as the radio "knows" how much current it needs but once again-it's better to ask. Safety I am working at a grounded outlet (120VAC). Is there anything else I need regarding bonding/grounding for either the radio itself, me, or the power supply? I realize that these are very elementary questions, but better to be safe than sorry. 73 Steve KC2VNI -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4413875.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Build Questions
I got my power supply, plugged it in and made the connections. No problems at all. The display lit up and diode D33 lit up as well. It was quite empowering to see the thing take 13.8VDC knowing that I put it together. Looking forward to finishing the build. I will be back to you should I have further questions. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Build-Questions-tp4410947p4414998.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Calibrating the Oscillator and Other Start-Up Questions for K3
All: I am happy to report that S/N 3823 now has been powered up. I am following the following calibration steps on pages 65-66 of the assembly manual for the low power (5W) configuration. My personal computer is not working so I cannot connect the radio to a lap-top. I am doing all of the calibration and set up by the radio and whatever firmware has been shipped loaded in the radio. Here are some questions: 1) I put the factory filter 2.7kHZ with offset of -0.82 in slot 3 and I do not have any other filters installed at this time. I put the filter there in case I want to add other filters later on. I set up the filter for bandwidth of 2.7 assuming that 2.7 is given in units KHZ. Is this correct? Also, I turned everything else for filters 1,2,4, and 5 off. Let me know if there's something I'm missing. Some additional questions: a) I set the receive filter enables to filter 3 in my case for all modes USB, LSB, CW, etc. b) What filter loss compensation should be used c) I set the transmit filter selection to filter 3 2) Testing output with dummy load for transmitter gain: I used an MFJ load and tied it to antenna input 1. I believe that I performed the test per the instructions but the load did not feel very warm at 5W. Is this normal? 3) Reference Osillator Calibration: This seems to be the tricky 1. I have the standard 5PPM oscillator. I do not have a frequency counter. So this leaves me with Method 2 on page 50 of the operations manual. Now, in order to zero-beat this, I would assume that I need to attach my antenna to the radio. Here are questions: a) Is my assumption correct about attaching the antenna to the radio? b) What other parameters need to be adjusted (and what would good suggested values be) BEFORE I attach the antenna to the radio? I am not only referring to "set-up" parameters but other items that would interfere with my operating the radio. c) Should I place the K3 antenna tuner on when performing an oscillator calibration? I would assume so to make the antenna match the transceiver d) What should I use as a "strong broadcast station" at 10,15,or 20MHz? Does anybody have a suggested frequency I should use? Would one of the signal beacons used for propagation studies be a good referece? For what it's worth, I am in the Southern NJ area and all I have been using is my local repeater on 2M so I have NO idea as to what is or what is not a good frequency to use. e) Would I be better off purchasing the XG2 mini project in lieu of trying to do oscillator calibration form a strong broadcast station for a reference oscillator? OR would I be better off shipping the radio back to Elecraft and having them do an oscillator calibration in the factory? f) I had purchased the 100W power amp. It looks like I have to perform the transmitter gain calibraiton again and there is a calibration of a temperature sensor as well. Does the temperature sensor unit require calibration equipment on my part? Do I have to use the latest firmware from the website to make this work? I realize I've asked alot of questions here. Any help would be appreciated. 73, Steve de KC2VNI -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Calibrating-the-Oscillator-and-Other-Start-Up-Questions-for-K3-tp4608623p4608623.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Using "Buddi Pole" Deluxe Antenna with K3
I have just gotten my radio set up thanks to W3DVX. It has both the internal ATU and 100W power amp options in it. I was wondering if any of you have some tips on how to operate a Buddi Pole Deluxe antenna system? If you have any suggestions or some past experience, please advise. Here are some of my questions: 1) Do you set the frequency 1st on the front of the radio AND then activate the tuner? 2) The antenna is rated for 250W. I would assume that this means it's okay to use the full 100W from the amp but I am concerned about the effects of SWR. 3) I was wondering if I'll get better results using the antenna as a vertical or do I want to try it on horizontal dipole (I believe you get about 16 feet of height above grade). 4) I was wondering if any one has had experience with the Buddipole on SSB? Please advise with whatever opinions you may have. Please know that I recognize I'm probably not going to get more than say NVIS type of propagation with this type of set-up (since I'm in a relatively flat area with no hills or the like). 73 KC2VNI-Steve -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Using-Buddi-Pole-Deluxe-Antenna-with-K3-tp4867678p4867678.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
