Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Logger +

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

On Jul 9, 2016 5:43 AM, "Dauer, Edward"  wrote:
>
> Unfortunately it is still not available for Mac, and the developers seem
hesitant about using a Windows emulator on an Apple computer.  Below is a
clip taken from the N1MM + website today.  Does anyone have any more
current info?

That is still the most current info. I would love to hear if anyone has
made the new version of N1MM+ work under WINE, but as far as I know, no one
has succeeded at that. The closest that anyone has come is using a full
Windows virtual machine to run N1MM+. Dale Putnam WC7S is one person who
has reported success with that setup.

-Neil N0FN
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Linux contest logging

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. It appears that regardless of the
logging program, I will need some additional connection between the radio
and the computer for CW keying. Not even N1MM+ on Windows supports keying
the K2 over the serial port using the native KY; command.

At this point, I will probably resurrect a K3NG Arduino-based keyer that I
had built before and try to use the WinKeyer support in that keyer
firmware. If that will play with TRLinux, then I imagine I will stick with
what I know (a tiny bit), but it appears that there is a wide gap in the
market for a modern GUI contest logger on Linux. ;)

Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions.

-Neil N0FN
On Jun 5, 2016 10:49, "Jim KO5V"  wrote:

> I cannot directly answer your questions about logging programs with
> Ubuntu, but I can say that Oracle Virtual Box running XP has worked well
> for me - a LOT better than attempting to run some programs with Wine. I
> must also say that I did go back to Ubuntu 12.4 after a later upgrade
> lobotomized my machine, so I am a bit behind the curve. I need to spend
> some time and see if I can upgrade to something a bit more current, but the
> last upgrade was a disaster!
>
> Good luck, and let us know what you find out,
>
> 73, Jim  KO5V
> K2 7225
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[Elecraft] K2 and Linux contest logging

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

For my first time ever, I have a computer connected to my radio! (Thanks
Elecraft for the parts and great instructions for building the KIO2
interface cable.) Now my problem is how to achieve my desired behavior with
that connected Linux computer.

My initial goal is to have the computer communicate with the radio for CW
contesting. Can anyone here tell me of a solution that has worked for them?

My setup is a small dual-core Intel Atom desktop running Ubuntu Linux,
connected from a real serial port (/dev/ttyS0) via the Elecraft cable to
the K2. I tested rig control with the rigctl program, fldigi, and K2Remote
under WINE. Everything appears to work well (except I don't think that I
was using fldigi correctly). In particular, I was able to send CW with both
rigctl (hamlib) and K2Remote.

I have used Trlog for Linux before for contest logging, but I was not able
to send CW from within Trlog using only the serial data connection to the
K2. Is that possible or not? Do I need a serial port keying circuit as
well?

I have also used N1MM before for contest logging, even under WINE on Linux.
>From searching online, it appears that N1MM+ will not run under WINE. When
I went to look for the old version of N1MM that I had used in the past, I
found that N1MMclassic.hamdocs.com is no longer online. Does anyone know
how to get an old version of N1MM logger that will work with Linux under
WINE?

Are there any K2 owners who use Linux computers for sending CW from a
contest logger? What do you do that works?

-Neil N0FN
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

Fiberglass poles such as those from Spiderbeam or Max-Gain Systems (
mgs4u.com) won't support very much load without guys which your wife
disallowed (completely?). If you just want to support your G5RV above the
level of your roof, then you could use two roof tripods like those used for
TV antennas. Just put two 5-foot lengths of TV mast in each one and you'll
be more than 25 feet above the ground and 10 feet clear of
the roof.

If you are an inveterate scrounger, you could almost certainly get these
from the roofs of people who no longer use OTA TV antennas.  When I drive
around here, there are lots of TV antennas in states of disrepair that I'm
sure the homeowners would be glad to get rid of.

If you don't want to bolt through the roof, you could use bracketed wooden
masts on each end of the house. You could also consider going to a longer
open-wire fed doublet with the center over your roof, supported by the two
roof towers, then extending off the house to a high attachment point on
each end (you could use an eight foot T-post). With a tuner, you should be
able to work all bands 80-6 once the total length of the antenna gets up
around 90 feet (and it doesn't have to run in a straight line).


-Neil N0FN

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:16 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of
> lengths.  Well within your budget.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>   From: George Dubovsky 
>  To: Reuben Popp 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
>  Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 7:19 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mast question
>
> I would look for 3 used sections of Rohn 25, then figure out how to safely
> bracket it to your house, if possible. That should be do-able for somewhere
> close to your budget and certainly capable of holding up a G5RV.
>
> 73,
>
> geo - n4ua
>
> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp 
> wrote:
>
> > Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly]
> Elecraft
> > related.
> >
> > I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.
> At
> > the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> > that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> > years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> > smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> > of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.
> So,
> > what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
> >
> > There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on
> a
> > slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> > distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> > abouts).
> >
> > The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower
> is
> > out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300,
> if
> > possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> > Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if
> that
> > helps any).
> >
> > So, what do folks recommend?
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[Elecraft] [K2] Mic bias bypass?

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

I am wanting to connect a computer headset to my K2.  I bought the K2 used
along with an Icom HM-12 hand mic that I have used successfully.  I haven't
opened the radio up to see what the bias resistor is inside of the K2, but
I measure +5V between pin 1 and pins 7 and 8 of the microphone connector.
I believe that means that a bias resistor has been connected internally to
put the bias voltage that the HM-12 needs on pin 1. (As a sidenote, trying
to measure the bias on pin 6 with my DMM appears to reboot the
microprocessor, sending the LCD screen back to "ELECRAFT"!!)

I am not sure about the bias needs of the headset that I have, which I
intend to use for infrequent SSB contesting. Following a recent message on
this reflector, I measured the resistance from tip to sleeve of the
microphone plug at 830 ohms. That message suggested that such a low
resistance would be indicative of a dynamic microphone element.  The
headset works fine with Skype on a laptop if that means anything.

I've got a mic plug and a female inline 1/8 socket and I will be making an
adapter for the headset. I want to be able to change from the hand
microphone to the headset without making internal changes on the K2, of
course. Ideally, I would like to use the same 1/8 inch to 8-pin adapter for
soundcard digital modes with the K2.

What should I do about the bias on microphone pin 1? Should I just use the
headset as-is, risking distorted audio with a dynamic microphone fed 5
volts of bias? Should I include a blocking capacitor (of what value?) in
the adapter that I build?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

-Neil N0FN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning power question

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

Would the same reasoning apply to the K2/100 as well? I have recently
acquired one and would like to take good care of the final transistors
(after a scary experience of trying to test power output while using the
wrong antenna connector). I know that 20W is the default with the tune
button, but one could then adjust it with the power knob.

-Neil N0FN

On Sat, Jan 17, 2015 at 10:06 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Dick,

 It is easier on the K3 to tune at 15 or 20 watts.
 Reason -- at 10 watts, only the low power PA is active and it will be
 operating near the upper end of its range.
 Increasing the power activates the 100 watt amp and at 15 or 20 watts,
 everything is loafing along at much less than its full output.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 1/17/2015 10:00 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

 I want to verify my understanding. In the interest of protecting the
 output transistor(s) against a mishap in one's antenna system, would it be
 better to tune at 10 watts (finals off) or at 15 watts (finals on)?
   Or is the driver so well protected that it doesn't matter?



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