[Elecraft] Re: Unstable AGC

2006-11-05 Thread PDouglas12
This is a follow up to my prior posting about the AGC  cutting power back to 
less than a watt in continuous modes like PSK31.
 
Thanks, folks, for the advice several of you sent.  No, I don't  believe it's 
RF--for one thing, I rather doubt a few watts can louse up the  system, when 
100 watts on the Yaesu (switched in and out by two simple changes  to the 
Rigblaster connections) are RF "cold" in the system.  I can't tell  what starts 
the AGC aggressively knocking down the power, except I think I can  induce the 
problem by overdriving.  Then, I can't fix it until the K2 is  off for a while 
or I fiddle with it in an unrepeatable pattern.  Perhaps,  still, it is a heat 
problem.  
 
At full steam, when the K2 is running right, it idles in PSK31 at about 3  
watts.  Text transmission kicks it to 5 watts, and the steady tone at the  end 
of transmission kicks it momentarily to 7 watts.  This seems to be the  norm 
for proper 5 watt operation, and IMD is minimal, according to  reports.  And, I 
think the K2 will run this way without the annoying cut  back so long as I 
make sure the AGC light remains off entirely (i.e. no bar even  flickers in AGC 
meter mode).  However, there is something in the AGC which,  once "set" by 
slight overdrive, won't return to normal unless the rig is off, or  the radio 
is 
played with by making band/power/freq/input changes of various  kinds.  It is 
puzzling.  Note, I only do digital modes on 20  meters, where the beam is 
either very low SWR or the LDG automatic antenna  tuner kicks in and brings the 
SWR 
down to 1:1 as seen by the K2.
 
Anyway, I have rediscovered the hardiness of the old Yaesu 757 GX, whose  
specs allowed for continuous operation in high duty cycle modes.  And these  
days, with sunspots in the zero range, PSK31 is much more fun at 75 watts than  
at 
5 watts--and this from a confirmed QRPer.  So, I reconnected the desk  mike 
to the K2 (and the keyer, of course).  
 
Thanks again for the suggestions--anybody else experiencing something  
similar?
 
Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Unstable AGC?

2006-11-03 Thread PDouglas12
Hello Elecrafters,

I have recently gotten back to digital modes with the K2.   It is a ten watt 
K2, not the 100 watt version.   Readers of QRP-L may recall my post about 
tracking down trouble with the KI02 which turned out to be a blown IC on the 
KI02 
board. 

Now, another problem has (re?) appeared.   I think it has always been there, 
and it led to my doing the mod to adjust the audio input AGC line on the SSB 
board some time ago.   But, it still is happening.   Here's the problem.

After adjusting the transmitter for either SSTV or PSK31, with any of the 
standard programs, the output stubbornly falls off to less than a watt, 
unpredictably.   When I first adjust the output for PSK31, for instance, the 
radio 
idles at 3 watts and jumps to well over five watts when there is signal--and 
can 
even jump to nearly 7 watts when the program goes into the steady tone before 
it changes over to transmit.   I'm keeping the K2 output setting via the front 
panel power control at five watts.   I'm not feeling any signs of heat 
underneath the K2, so I'm not thinking overheating.   The sound card is NOT 
unstable, 
as it puts out a stable drive to my old Yaesu 757GX (which I can drive 
consistently from 5   to 100 watts, without instability of output.)   The 
interface 
is a commercial interface with a back panel pot to adjust mike input (so 
there's not much chance the input is too low).   Any thoughts on this?   Is 
this a 
common problem?   Oh, and   I   note that switching to CW gives full normal 
output.   

Since the Yaesu is now 20 years old or so, it doesn't do Ham Radio Deluxe, 
which is a great way to operate the K2.   Otherwise, I'd just use the Yaesu 
with 
the power cut.   PSK31 doesn't need a 100 watt rig--five watts are almost 
always plenty.I hate the idea of having to add another rig to the shack, 
just 
for digital modes and computer controlled operation.   Thanks for 
suggestions.

Preston Douglas WJ2V
216 Harborview North
Lawrence, NY 11559
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[Elecraft] Oops, subject missing--s/b troubleshoot KI02

2006-08-05 Thread PDouglas12
Sorry, clicked on send and then remembered I hadn't put a subject on  message 
about my KI02.
 
72,
 
Preston WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 28, Issue 5

2006-08-05 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Folks,
 
I read this list on a reasonably regular basis, and I don't remember seeing  
this problem.  I have a old K2 (serial number 191) with SSB, KI02, and the  
mod for bandwidth improvement on PSK 31.  Along the way, a firmware upgrade  
was 
installed.  No, I'm not selling it!
 
The problem is with the KI02, the serial port adapter.  It worked fine  until 
a few weeks ago. Today, as part of the troubleshooting project,  I finally 
got around to trying it with a second computer, and  neither computer can read 
the K2.  No, it's not a program problem, as  I tried the usual stuff, including 
HRD, all of which worked previously.   And yes, the cable has been opened and 
checked at both ends.  No  loose connections.  Yes, too, the "Port" is "on" 
in the menu.  This  tells me the K2 can see it.  However, when I tried to send 
and receive data  using Hyperterminal, a weird thing happened.  Sending 
"SW01;" turns off the  port!  According to my manual, this is supposed to 
change 
bands, not turn  the port off!  This is repeatable, and happens with both 
computers.   Is this evidence of a damaged IC on the KI02?  Note, I have a 
load, 
clear  oscillator signal at 16.29.
 
Suggestions?   By the way, I have a vacuum desoldering machine,  so removal 
and replacement of defective through-hole ICs is trivial.  Is  that what I 
need?  A new chip?  The schematic shows that the I/O is  not buffered or 
protected, so I am figuring that's what needs to be done?   What say engineers?
 
72,
 
Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] The "right" tool for removing IC pins

2006-01-11 Thread PDouglas12
There has been much talk here and on other lists about the safe/correct way 
to remove ICs from circuit boards.   Conventional ICs (as opposed to the 
surface mount jobs, which are another whole animal) can be removed cleanly and 
easily with a vacuum desoldering machine.  Handheld vacuum poppers are not a 
good 
substitute for a motorized desoldering machine.   For one thing, the popper's 
recoil will pull it off the work as it discharges.   If you've ever used or 
seen one of these desoldering machines in action, they are nothing short of 
amazing.   You put the tip over a pin, and it sucks the hole clean and dry in a 
fraction of a second.   Do this fourteen times, and the IC can be easily 
removed 
intact with two fingers.   The holes left behind are so clean that a new IC 
will drop right in as if they were virgin.   

So, if you're building your dream K2, and you make an IC mistake, you want to 
find a local ham who has one of these machines.   They're too expensive 
(upwards of $200 used) to buy for a one-shot deal, but they are the kind of 
tool 
you'd want around a serious workbench--kind of like a good oscilloscope.   And 
they require maintenance. 

My suggestion is to get on the local repeater and ask who has one, rather 
than trying to wrestle the pins out of a hot circuit board.   If you're local 
to 
me (Long Island) just ask.   I have a working desoldering machine.   Yes, you 
can clean out an IC using a combination of solder wick and vacuum poppers; but 
you will almost certainly do some damage to the traces/holes in the process, 
particularly on boards with plated through holes.   Better to find someone to 
give you a couple of minutes of time with a desoldering machine.   

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Algorithm for Tuner

2005-09-15 Thread PDouglas12
I've always thought that the simple bubble algorithm was amazing.I mean, 
if you weren't worried about wearing out the relays, and time weren't a 
factor, you could simply test every possible combination of L and C, and 
re-order 
them in pairs until the best combination bubbles to the top.   This somewhat 
crude, but simple algorithm was used to alphabetize lists in Basic programs 
written since Basic was invented.It ought to be possible to program a 
variant 
which would use a simple sampling list of 50 combos to get a few "dips" , 
bubble them for best SWR, take that LC combo and then test the nearest, say 100 
combinations, plus and minus these settings to maximize with a bubble test to 
find the best match.   Explain to me, without telling me how dumb I am, why 
this 
won't work.

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Ernesto's Hex Key Covers

2005-08-10 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Gang,

I received my Hex Key cover from Ernesto today, finally.   This was, frankly, 
after I sent a number of escalating strong emails, suggesting that he is not 
supposed to accept money in May and send goods in August.   To his credit, he 
remained a gentleman, despite his less than candid early promises which even 
included a false tracking number a month or two ago.   

I would have to say the quality of the cover is adequate, though certainly 
not commensurate with the beautiful finish on my new Elecraft Hex Key.   The 
base of the cover is made of plywood, not uniformly finished, but the 
plexiglass 
top is clean (one scratch, but not significant).   Considering the aggravation 
factor, I would certainly not order another cover from him.   Unfortunately, 
I am not aware of any competing business, so if you have to have a cover, he 
may be the only game in town.   If you do order from him, keep after him and be 
prepared for a long siege.

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Ernesto's Hex Key Cover

2005-08-06 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Guys,

Has anyone ordered a cover from Ernesto in Puerto Rico?   How did it work 
out?   I ordered my Hex Key cover from him by postal money order (his only 
accepted form of payment) in MAY.   Despite numerous cordial emails from him 
advising that the cover was completed and promising a tracking number, I've 
received 
nothing.   Anyone else have a problem with him?   I have postponed opening my 
Hex Key box until the cover came, so it would remain dust free in my shack, 
but this is becoming silly.

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 15, Issue 1

2005-07-05 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Elecrafters,


I recently posted a tongue-in-cheek note about using the K2 by remote 
computer over a network.   But now that my new Dell is actually on the way, and 
the 
"old" 1.3 Gig Dell is going into the shack, I am close to realizing a dream of 
operating my K2 via network.   I really like Simon's HRD, but, as users 
already know, it does not do audio.   In the shack, of course, that is no 
problem. 
However, since it has such competent network abilities, it should be a natural 
for full remote, if sound can be networked as well.   Are there folks out 
there using this software with sound, over an 802.11b/g network?   What 
additional 
software are you using to make it work?   Are you having compatibility 
problems?   I know that K2 Remote works (it is also a neat program), and could 
try 
that--it's just that HRD is so comprehensive.   So, anybody doing this?

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V 
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[Elecraft] KX1's Key

2005-06-18 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Elecrafters,

Well, the KX1 I bought at Dayton is finished, including all of the options.   
Honestly, the hardest option was the KX1 key.   I find that sometimes with 
mechanical construction I am spatially challenged.   For the life of me, I 
couldn't figure out the drawings!   Finally, after a number of dumb false 
starts, I 
got them together.   They are still a bit touchy--I don't know why they go 
into occasional paroxysms of dashes--the manual says I may have to file down 
the 
silver wire a bit--are the tolerances that close?   Anyone else experience 
the same maybe problem?

Thanks.

Preston Douglas WJ2V

Oh, did I mention the KX1 is neat?
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[Elecraft] KX1 power out

2005-06-13 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Folks,

I just completed a new KX1 serial number >1000.   It passed all checks and 
seems to be working perfectly, except I find the power out is marginally low.   
I use a WM-1 which is carefully calibrated.   In my case, at 13.4 V, I get 2 
watts out on 20M and 3 watts on 40.   This appears to be just within specs for 
40, and at least 500 mw low on 20.   I am a very experienced builder, 
including two K2s and two K1s.   Are my results within the normal range, or 
suggestions?

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Hex Key Cover

2005-05-25 Thread PDouglas12
Hey Elecrafters,


One of the things that followed me home from Dayton was an Elecraft Hex Key.  
 Eric mentioned that there is a fella out there who makes covers for it.   
Would some kind soul post the email or web address of the cover maker?

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4

2004-10-04 Thread PDouglas12
Hi Elecrafters,

This is a report on using my OLD serial number (191) K2 on PSK31.   I have 
used it for some years now, unmodified, which required keeping output to less 
than 3 watts.   This is fine in good conditions, but a little more power is now 
often necessary as the sunspots have begun to decline.   Also, I recently 
purchased a neat device called PSK31 Meter (
http://www.ssiserver.com/info/pskmeter/) which samples your outgoing PSK31 
signal and, optionally, will 
AUTOMATICALLY cut back your sound card volume control to modulate at an optimum 
IMD.   I 
put one in line in my shack and confirmed that I have to cut the power WAY back 
on the K2 to keep a decent IMD.   So, I modified the AGC as described on the 
Elecraft site.   I got real lazy and used their very inexpensive parts kit (I 
couldn't find the electrolytic in my parts collection, so I wimped.)   While I 
generally hate to open a solid working radio--it ain't broke--I did the mod 
in a few minutes.   Now, the PSK31 Meter hardware/software is perfectly happy 
to allow the K2 to push out over 5 watts in idle and nearly ten in peak 
modulated PSK31.   I keep it down a bit to protect the finals, but the K2 seems 
happy 
since it is running into a flat SWR.  I do find that my P300 PC in the shack 
is stretched to the limits running both Digipan and the PSK Meter software, 
and I suggest anything over a P500 with >256Megs of memory should handle this 
just fine.   I have to kill my Norton Antivirus and Network Monitor TSR 's to 
squeak out the needed processing.   Anyway, the mod really works, and it is 
obviously worthwhile if you have an old serial number.   

Incidentally, if you are thinking of upgrading the computer in the shack, 
keep in mind the new emerging digital modes.   Sending and receiving JPG files 
(NOT SSTV) requires serious computing power to run the conversion system in the 
new DIGTRX program (http://www.kiva.net/~djones/digtrx.htm).  My old P300 can 
take up to ten minutes of processing time to convert one picture.   So, if you 
are going to change your computer "box," think about putting a gig or two of 
processing power down there in the shack.   I guess it is time to move my 1.3 
gig Dell down there--the family is complaining that it is too slow!   
Unbelievable how fast the state of the art changes.   

Finally, if you've read this far, I have two cents to add to the discussion 
about SSB and the K1.   I think this is related to the universal QRP dream.   
We want a miniature (pocket-sized) rig with digital readout, multi-band, 
all-mode and with a competitive receiver.   We aren't so interested in output 
power, 
but 5 watts is needed.   We would be glad to struggle with surface mount to 
build such a rig if Elecraft sold it.   So, Eric and Wayne, I don't know why 
you haven't done already.   Just because nobody else can do it is no excuse.   
If you cut the sleep down to four hours a night, you can have this done by the 
New Year.   :-)

Preston Douglas WJ2V
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