[Elecraft] Calling CQ on PSK-31

2010-05-11 Thread Parker Buckley

This is pure speculation.  I've observed the same thing running QRP on
digital modes.  I believe it could be a simple matter of the QRP signals
being less bright on the typical waterfall compared to someone running 30-50
watts, and it's probably only natural that someone looking for a QSO will
click on the brighter signals.  Even though copy may be 100% on the dimmer
trace, folks wanting a solid connection will gravitate to the bright traces.
There is probably no way to confirm this, but I also have had better luck
responding to someone else's CQ, and usually they have no problem with my
signal.

Parker
WD8JOL K2 2636




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Re: [Elecraft] BL-2 Balun Heating

2009-11-20 Thread Parker Buckley


Thanks to everyone that replied to my situation.  Looks like I'll be 
busy doing a lot of testing and experimenting today.  I'll get back with 
the results later.

Gary  N2UM

I hope that will include the suggestion of placing the balun between the rig
and tuner, just so you can report back on it.  K7EL of EZNEC fame wrote
pretty extensively on this several years ago.  I've tried it, and it seems
to work, but I was never quite comfortable not grounding the tuner (not sure
why).  But if you look at Palstar's balanced tuner, that's exactly what he
does.  There are similar balance-L circuits out there, so it's probably
worth a try if you don't want to spend a lot of time trying to find a
combination of feedline and antenna length that will make your balun happy
on several bands.

Let us know!

73,
Parker WD8JOL
K2 #2636

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Required for PSK 31 and Olivia

2009-05-26 Thread Parker Buckley
Hope I can reply from digest mode...

From: Frank MacDonell kd8...@gmail.com

My K3 works well for CW at 5 watts but it seems I cannot get through
to stations using PSK 31. Is there a minimum power level suggested for
PSK31?  Can you run QRP for Olivia? Thanks everybody!

-- 
Frank KD8FIP

I've noticed the same thing (with my K2).  I can easily make QRP contacts in
CW, but don't have the same result with PSK or Olivia.  I fire up an old
FT-757 for that purpose and run 30 watts or so, even though PSK is known for
its low-power capability.  My pure speculation is that the brighter trace
from higher power attracts more replies, even though the weaker trace from
QRP is perfectly readable.

Parker WD8JOL 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 59, Issue 26

2009-03-13 Thread Parker Buckley
I just checked to be surethe sidetone volume is independent of the AF
gain.  It's adjusted as a menu item.  Changing AF gain has no effect on
sidetone output.

Parker
WD8JOL K2 #2636


I don't have my K2 yet?but should have it in about a week..depending on
options.
I noticed in the schematic that the side-tone output(U10B pre-amp) looks
to
be connected as a secondary input to AF-amp(U9 LM380).
This makes me assume that side-tone volume is not fixed, but instead
changes along with, and is a percentage of AF volume.
If that is true, its a setup that I don't prefer.


Thanks
Duane
N1BBR
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net



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[Elecraft] [K2] VOX on digital modes?

2008-10-27 Thread Parker Buckley
Is there any fundamental reason why I can't use VOX control while running
PSK with my K2?  I've never used VOX with this rig on SSB, but I assume it
works okay.  I recall much discussion about lack of mic gain not triggering
the VOX, so I'm wondering if that is also limiting what I can do running
digital modes.  If so, I'll stick with PTT.

Thanks,
Parker 
WD8JOL K2 #2636


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RE: [Elecraft] [K2] VOX on digital modes?

2008-10-27 Thread Parker Buckley
Don,

Thanks for the quick reply.  I expected you would jump on my question!  I'll
stick with the PTT setup.  I'm looking at options for going portable with a
laptop, and VOX may have made that easier. 

I hear you about the K3.  I keep looking at my Hallicrafters gear, thinking
I could turn that into a K3 at the next Hamvention

73,
Parker

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:51 AM
To: Parker Buckley
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] VOX on digital modes?

Parker,

The K2 VOX does not work well with PSK - by the time the audio is 
cranked up enough to trip the VOX reliably, you will be driving the 
audio input too hard and the transmitted IMD will suffer.  The VOX in 
the K2 works OK for voice, but not as well for the more steady audio 
tones of soundcard digital modes, so I recommend you stay with the PTT 
operation - since you apparently already have that working, I see no 
advantage to change.

The K3 VOX OTOH is very smooth and will work quite well for afsk data modes.

73,
Don W3FPR

Parker Buckley wrote:
 Is there any fundamental reason why I can't use VOX control while running
 PSK with my K2?  I've never used VOX with this rig on SSB, but I assume it
 works okay.  I recall much discussion about lack of mic gain not
triggering
 the VOX, so I'm wondering if that is also limiting what I can do running
 digital modes.  If so, I'll stick with PTT.
   



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[Elecraft] Re: Receive Antennas

2008-02-03 Thread Parker Buckley
I was interested to read recent comments on 160M receive antennas.  As it
happens, I just completed a coaxial loop antenna for my K2 this weekend, as
described by KN4LF and KC2TX, and combined it with their recommended preamp.
It's the antenna design that's been in the handbook for years.  I've wanted
to try one of these for some time, thinking I might hear that rare DX that
everyone else seems to be working.  So it's all tuned up and seems to work
well, but let me ask a basic question.  If I already enjoy relatively quiet
conditions on 160, in spite of living in the city, will the loop ever hear
anything that my full-sized inverted L won't hear?  The inverted L seems to
work well, as I've worked all over the US, including Hawaii, during
contests; all the while at 5 watts (I know, it's all about their beverage
and not my whopping signal, but still I'm pretty happy for QRP).  My nominal
noise level on the L is 2 S units.  I peaked up the K2 and measured receive
sensitivity, and I think it's doing all that it should.  So is this loop
antenna just a fun project, or will this let me hear things so far down in
the noise that I would not other wise hear them?

Parker WD8JOL K2 #2636   

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[Elecraft] PSK31 Power Level

2007-02-25 Thread Parker Buckley
Elecrafters,

 

Don has been coaching me off-list through installation of one of his fixed
audio output kits, which I've had around here for many months, un-built.
All went well, except the audio through my computer was distorted.  I
eventually tracked it down to the K2 DSP gains being set too high.  I was
getting away with that in the basic K2, but the fixed audio unit doesn't
like being pushed that hard.  I've now carefully reset the DSP gains to get
the same audio level with DSP and with DSP bypassed.  Everything is working
great.  I'm now reminded of a nagging question since the last time I strayed
from CW to PSK 31.  I've read numerous places about setting the power level
(mine is a QRP K2) to five watts for continuous use like PSK.  Does that
mean five watts for single tone like CW, or five watts average as the two
tones warble back and forth?  I'm using a WM-2 wattmeter in the output.
Running about 10 watts single tone, I get about five watts warbling and a
single ALC bar flickering.  Is this okay, or should I back it down to five
watts single tone?  I thought this question might be of interest to a wider
audience.

Parker

WD8JOL  K2 #2636

 

...back to work tomorrow, and peace for Don.

 

 

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[Elecraft] RE: PSK31 Power Level

2007-02-25 Thread Parker Buckley
Don,

 

It's that idle tone that I question.  If I push the Tune button (Digipan)
I get a single tone.  If I push the T/R button, I get a dual warbling tone
which gives about half the reading on the wattmeter (probably something like
an average of the two warbling tones and some off period between them).  So
you're saying to bring up the single tone to only five watts?   That puts
the warbling tone down to the 2-3 watt level.  I guess the peaks are
probably hitting the five watt level, but the meter can't keep up.

 

Thanks,
Parker

 

  _  

From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 6:23 PM
To: Parker Buckley; W3FPR - Don Wilhelm; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: PSK31 Power Level

 

Parker,

 

The best for running PSK31 is to set the power knob to 10 watts or above.

Then adjust the level from your computer soundcard so your power meter goes
up to 5 watts with the idle tone.  There should be no ALC bars showing.

 

Also, be certain that you have the compression set to 1:1.  If you are using
the RTTY mode, there is a separate SSBCr setting in the menu, and that is
independent of whatever compression level you may be using for SSB.  If you
are using the RTTY filters, remember that there is yet another set of 4
filters that need to be properly set up for width (use the OP1 filter for
FL1 - that is important), and set the remaining filters whereever you would
like in terms of width and filter center.  Use Spectrogram and it is easy.

 

If you want to increase the gain for the KDSP2 again for whatever reason,
you may have to add a divider at the two inputs of the Fixed Audio board -
something like 2.2k in series and then 2.2k to ground should give you good
results.

 

73,

Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

Elecrafters,

 

Don has been coaching me off-list through installation of one of his fixed
audio output kits, which I've had around here for many months, un-built.
All went well, except the audio through my computer was distorted.  I
eventually tracked it down to the K2 DSP gains being set too high.  I was
getting away with that in the basic K2, but the fixed audio unit doesn't
like being pushed that hard.  I've now carefully reset the DSP gains to get
the same audio level with DSP and with DSP bypassed.  Everything is working
great.  I'm now reminded of a nagging question since the last time I strayed
from CW to PSK 31.  I've read numerous places about setting the power level
(mine is a QRP K2) to five watts for continuous use like PSK.  Does that
mean five watts for single tone like CW, or five watts average as the two
tones warble back and forth?  I'm using a WM-2 wattmeter in the output.
Running about 10 watts single tone, I get about five watts warbling and a
single ALC bar flickering.  Is this okay, or should I back it down to five
watts single tone?  I thought this question might be of interest to a wider
audience.

Parker

WD8JOL  K2 #2636

 

...back to work tomorrow, and peace for Don.

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[Elecraft] Off topic antenna question

2005-11-15 Thread Parker Buckley
Is anyone in the group using a Butternut HF2V with the 30m add-on kit?  I've
used the basic antenna for years with great results, but the 30m kit is not
tuning up correctly.  Posted reviews I've seen have indicated no problems.
If you're using one of these and would be kind enough to correspond off
list, please drop me an email.

 

Heading to work now; will check emails this evening.


Thanks,
Parker WD8JOL 

 

K2 #2636

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RE: [Elecraft] Tuner/Balun Question

2005-10-03 Thread Parker Buckley
Don,

Okay, that's as I suspected.  It makes sense to me that the tuner could
resonate the antenna-feedline system, but that the currents may remain
unbalanced.  One of my antennas is a quad fed with open line, and such
operation would probably skew the directivity.  I think I'll stick with my
baluns

Thanks,
Parker


Snip

The result is that 
power may be delivered to the antenna but the feedline will be radiating and

the pattern from the antenna is unknown.

That's the short answer ... I await the many antenna experts on the list to 
embellish it.

Don  K7FJ


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[Elecraft] Tuner/Balun Question

2005-10-02 Thread Parker Buckley
I just read the Aerials article by Krusty Kurt in the October issue of World
Radio.  Near the end of the article, Kurt is describing a well known method
of running parallel coax through the wall to connect ladder line to the
antenna tuner.  His method ties the shields together at both ends to get 100
ohm feedline, while I've always left the braids near the ladder line
floating.  What really caught my attention, however, is his comment that you
can run the parallel coax lines straight to the tuner without a balun.  I've
always used a balun in this setup; either 4:1 or 1:1.  I recall emails to
this reflector in the past describing connection of ladder line straight to
an Elecraft tuner with no problems.  I'm now wondering if I could ditch the
baluns in my installation.  Any thoughts/experience with this?  Is the
output from a tuner balanced at the coax connector up until such time that
it's connected to an unbalanced load like a single coaxial line?

 

Parker 

WD8JOL K2 #2636

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[Elecraft] T1 Tuner

2005-06-01 Thread Parker Buckley
I just finished building and installing the T1 tuner I picked up at the
Hamvention.  It was a lot of fun to build and works beautifully.  I have it
connected through an Elecraft 1:1 balun to a center-fed doublet about 60
feet long.  It tuned everything from 10 to 80 meters with no problem.  I
hooked up a remote switch for it so I can locate the tuner next to where the
feedline enters the shack and activate it from my operating position a few
feet away.  Works great.

 

Parker

WD8JOL  K2 #2636 

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RE: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Parker Buckley
Hi guys.  I certainly appreciate your quick responses.  Like everything
else, I guess the answer to a certain extent is It depends.  I probably
should have sidestepped the balanced tuner vs tuner/balun part of the
question.  I've tried all kinds of combinations along those lines, probably
guided more by practicality for the particular installation than efficiency.
So maybe I should have started with Assuming a coax-fed antenna..  It
sounds like the decision still comes back to (given a reasonably efficient
design), what's most practical for the need.  The KAT2 integrates directly
into the K2 and the T1 offers flexibility for use with other rigs.  Looking
forward to Dayton!

73,
Parker
WD8JOL 

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[Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-12 Thread Parker Buckley
I've been using my QRP K2 for the last 2-3 years with a full sized Palstar
tuner.  I use a variety of antennas from 160 to 10 meters, fed with coax,
ladder line, choke baluns, the Elecraft balun, etc.  I'm thinking about
going to an auto tuner (Dayton Hamvention coming).  Has anyone compared the
efficiencies of the very small tuner like the T1, the KAT2, and larger
tuners like the Palstar?  (I've been the Johnson KW Matchbox route as well.)
Intuition tells me there is something lost when going to very small
components packed into a tiny space compared to large air variables, big
roller inductors, etc., but I don't have anything to back up that gut feel.
Anyone make any measurements?   

 

Parker  K2 2636

WD8JOL 

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[Elecraft] New DSP control with N4PY software

2005-02-07 Thread Parker Buckley
Hi all.  Some of you may recall that a few weeks ago I posted an announcement 
about Carl, N4PY, planning to add DSP control capability to his software.  
Well, he's done it and it works great.  He's added a set of buttons to the 
front panel to select DSP on/off, step through the four filters, select noise 
reduction on/off,  level of noise reduction, and notch filter on/off.   He's 
already sending out updates to subscribers.  As before, I have no financial 
interest in N4PY products and remain grateful for all the options out there for 
rig control software.

73,
Parker WD8JOL K2 #2636 
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[Elecraft] N4PY Software

2005-01-24 Thread Parker Buckley
Basic control of the DSP unit with NP4Y software has been available for many 
months now.

Ben,

I'm interested in your post about programming the buttons for DSP.  I tried 
that also, but maybe not the same way.  I set one button for DISPLAY, and 
another for BAND+.   I then hit them in the sequence you stated.  The problem 
is that without some indication on the computer screen, I can't tell what state 
the rig is in unless it's close enough to look at.  For example, if I hit the 
BAND+ button first by mistake, then I've just changed bands.  Maybe you set up 
a more foolproof way to do it.  As I understand it, Carl is planning to create 
new buttons to allow direct control of the DSP without a sequence of button 
pushing as with the basic K2.

Parker WD8JOL
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[Elecraft] Exciting news from N4PY Software

2005-01-23 Thread Parker Buckley
I recently downloaded N4PY/Carl's Pegasus control program which he's configured 
to work with the K2.  I asked him if he planned to incorporate controls for the 
KDSP2 in it.  Turns out he doesn't have DSP in his K2, so he asked me some 
pertinent questions.  Now, he's decided to go ahead and install a KDSP2 and 
begin programming to support it.  He plans to first develop the basic control 
functions, then perhaps code up  a SETTINGS menu to allow all the various 
parameters to be input from a PC.  I thought many of you might be interested in 
this development.  As the K2 adds more and more functions to the existing 
buttons, it seems to me that setting up the radio (including the clock!) from a 
PC would be extremely useful.  For the record, I have no financial interests in 
N4PY software.  I appreciate all the excellent choices we have for computer 
control of our rigs.  

73,
Parker WD8JOL 
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[Elecraft] Runaway Serial Port

2005-01-18 Thread Parker Buckley
Used to be, when I started my Win98 computer, my Rigblaster would cycle once 
for a couple of seconds, requiring that I be careful not to transmit 
inadvertantly.  When I upgraded to XP, I noticed the Rigblaster cycles 5 or 6 
times in rapid succession during boot-up.  Yesterday, I installed an Edgeport 4 
so I can run the Rigblaster and my KIO2 from a common USB port.  Now it's 
gotten worse.  The Rigblaster will sometimes cycle 5 or 6 times during normal 
Windows operation, like clicking on a feature in Powerpoint, clicking to 
enlarge a view in Explorer, etc.  It seems to be a random event, in that it is 
not repeatable.  Tonight, I'll put the Rigblaster back on the serial port to 
see if that calms things down.  Longer term, I'd like to solve this as I have 
at least one more serial port application I'd like to set up.  Any ideas?

Parker K2 #2636
WD8JOL  
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Re: [Elecraft] Runaway Serial Port

2005-01-18 Thread Parker Buckley

Don,

I plan to do exactly as you suggest.  It was fun getting the Edgeport 
working, but I don't think it's good for running the Rigblaster.  I posed 
the question to a friend at work who is much more computer literate than I 
and got the following suggestion: Looks like you have to edit the registry 
to stop Plug and play from constantly enumerating the serial ports. 
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;283063 has the gory 
details.  I checked the website and read some pretty scary stuff for 
someone with my level of expertise.  Thanks for emailing.


Parker WD8JOL




- Original Message - 
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Parker Buckley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Runaway Serial Port



Parker,

I can't offer a cure, but I would suggest you do 2 things - first put the 
rigblaster on a non-USB converter Serial port and make certain the 
rigblaster is not active during computer boot cycles.  Secondly, you 
should ba able to use the Edgeport/4 for connection to the transceivers 
(logging apps and software rig control only) since these programs - if 
properly written - should 'ride through' any such 'cycling' that WinDoze 
may do at the USB/serial ports.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 
From: Parker Buckley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Runaway Serial Port


Used to be, when I started my Win98 computer, my Rigblaster would cycle 
once for a couple of seconds, requiring that I be careful not to transmit 
inadvertantly.  When I upgraded to XP, I noticed the Rigblaster cycles 5 
or 6 times in rapid succession during boot-up.  Yesterday, I installed an 
Edgeport 4 so I can run the Rigblaster and my KIO2 from a common USB port. 
Now it's gotten worse.  The Rigblaster will sometimes cycle 5 or 6 times 
during normal Windows operation, like clicking on a feature in Powerpoint, 
clicking to enlarge a view in Explorer, etc.  It seems to be a random 
event, in that it is not repeatable.  Tonight, I'll put the Rigblaster 
back on the serial port to see if that calms things down.  Longer term, 
I'd like to solve this as I have at least one more serial port application 
I'd like to set up.  Any ideas?


Parker K2 #2636
WD8JOL
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[Elecraft] Aha! There really was a KIO2 Problem!

2005-01-17 Thread Parker Buckley
After retracing my steps in trying to get the KIO2 to play, I discovered that 
it worked when I connected the cable to J1 without the two jackscrews in the 
plug.  It appears that the holes in the nuts holding J1 to the top cover are 
too shallow to allow the connector to mate all the way.  I think I need to 
shorted the jackscrews a little so the connectors can fully mate.  Anyone else 
seen this?

Parker 
WD8JOL
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Re: [Elecraft] Aha! There really was a KIO2 Problem!

2005-01-17 Thread Parker Buckley

Alan,

You're right!  That took all of about ten seconds to fix.  My original 
message was correctall I had to do was humble myself to the group.


73,
Parker

- Original Message - 
From: Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Parker Buckley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:42 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Aha! There really was a KIO2 Problem!



Yes, the jackscrews are aligned in the wrong slots inside the connector.
Move the jackscrew ring to the space in front of the screw support.
Harder to explain than do.

73
Alan
W1HYV
80 K2's built

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Parker Buckley
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 3:40 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Aha! There really was a KIO2 Problem!


After retracing my steps in trying to get the KIO2 to play, I discovered
that it worked when I connected the cable to J1 without the two jackscrews
in the plug.  It appears that the holes in the nuts holding J1 to the top
cover are too shallow to allow the connector to mate all the way.  I think 
I

need to shorted the jackscrews a little so the connectors can fully mate.
Anyone else seen this?

Parker
WD8JOL
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[Elecraft] Another PSK31 Power Question

2004-11-21 Thread Parker Buckley
I know this has been batted around here recently, but I have an additional 
question.  When setting power levels are we all talking about using a single 
tone, as when I activate the Tune button in Digipan, or the two tone idling 
signal I get when pushing the Pause/Break key?  Different power levels result.  
Which do I use when establishing the 50% max power limit ( 5 watts for my QRP 
K2)?

Thanks,
Parker WD8JOL K2 #2636
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[Elecraft] Re: More antenna problems

2004-07-28 Thread Parker Buckley
I've read several responses indicating that verticals are more noise-prone than 
dipoles, cf zepps, etc.I live on an average city lot with power lines at 
the back, and my experience has been a little different.  I've used a Butternut 
HF-2V with 16 radials for many years.  I've also experimented with a variety of 
wire antennas, including center fed zepps, dipoles, vertical dipoles fed with 
ladder line, verticals with elevated radials, verticals with loaded elevated 
radials (as in Moxon), and consistently the ground mounted vertical monopole is 
quieter (and provides at least the same signal strength).I've also tried a 
simple monopole for 30 meters (made from HF-2V parts) mounted on the same 
ground system, and found it to be quieter than any of the wire antennas on 30, 
either vertical or horizontal.  I believe the ground system is key to the whole 
thing.the ground mounted vertical is simply quieter than elevated ones.  If 
you can install a decent set of radials (quite easy to do: mow the grass, stake 
the wires out, and let Mother Nature hide them for you; at least it works in 
Ohio), I think a vertical is worth considering.  I've done extensive EZNEC 
modelling of all these antennas, and while interesting and fun, the noise issue 
is hard to predict and can be one of the more important considerations.

Parker WD8JOL K2 #2636
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: More antenna problems

2004-07-28 Thread Parker Buckley
Earl,

I agree that's what the model shows and what the theory says.  You're
probably assuming the dipole is at least a half wave above ground, which can
be a challenge at lower frequencies.  I'm just relating my real world
experiences, and suggesting that the vertical not be dismissed too soon in
the considerations.

Would love to continue, but I'm heading out on a trip.  Looking forward to
checking back in when I return!

73,
Parker WD8JOL

- Original Message -
From: Earl W Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: More antenna problems


 George,  W5YR writes:

 Parker, what did you think of the EZNEC gain predictions for verticals?
 Compared to wire dipoles at a modest height?
 ==
 The free space gain of a vertical is about the same as that of a dipole
 (2.14 dBi).  However, over real ground the horizontal antenna benefits by
 far field ground reflection.  This is borne out in EZNEC.

 Remember that a vertical's gain is concentrated at the low angles that
 are good for DXing, while the horizontal antenna must be relatively high
 (at least 0.5 wavelengths) to have a reasonably low angle of radiation..

 As far as noise goes, the dipole has a better receive S/N ratio than a
 vertical simply because it has directivity, while the vertical is
 omnidirectional.  Also, because of its low angle radiation, the vertical
 hears man made noises better (which are generated close to the ground
 and therefore arrive at a low angle).

 73, de Earl, K6SE

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