Re: [Elecraft] OT: be careful what you open

[Reuben Popp]

Let's not be hasty in our judgement...

To be fair, it would be trivial to write a small script to harvest any
string that looks like an email address that follows the form of
/\w\sat\s\w\.(com|net|org|tld)/ (that's a word followed by a space followed
by 'at' followed by space followed by a word followed by a period and a
tld).

Just saying... our email addresses are plastered all over, and the above
form of obfuscation is fairly easy to defeat.  And then, there's places
where it's not obfuscated in the least, such as

http://lists.contesting.com/_rtty/2015-01/msg00047.html

which contains your "exclusive" address in its entirety with no obfuscation.

Not trying to call you out here, I'm just pointing out that there's a
million ways for me to acquire an address (if I were up to nefarious
designs).



On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 3:01 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <
k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com> wrote:

> I'd like to thank the person who opened an E-Mail attachment that should
> not have been opened.
>
> The attachment contained a trojan horse -- malware that then harvested
> E-Mail addresses from their machine.
>
> I know it was a list member, because my E-Mail address for this list is
> exclusively used for this list, and I'm now getting unwanted "spoofed" mail
> telling me about packages that are undeliverable, or that I need to appear
> in court.
>
> Those E-Mails have attachments, allegedly containing the details of my
> offense or how to claim the package.
>
> The E-Mail is very generic.  If you read it critically, there is nothing
> that says it is from a legitimate shipper, legitimate court -- just a
> slightly scary call to action.
>
> It's another trojan horse.
>
> It seems to me that after 3,000 years, we would have learned to keep the
> metaphorical horse outside our cities, but no, there are some who say "look
> at the pretty horse!" and we all suffer.
>
> Thank you for your future consideration.  I'll go change my E-Mail address
> now.
>
> 73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] Buy a K3S?

[Reuben Popp]

Er... Sorry Bill, this was meant to go to the list...

So... maybe a bit foolish of me, but... it's a bit like Christmas.

Don't kill me, but, I was given a very nice deal on a brand new, never used
ICOM 7700 for well over half of what its current msrp is **Note, I really
meant that the unit cost me well under half of what the current msrp is**.
On top of that, my OT check had a very nice "bonus" from my employer.  So,
all told, I can get the 7700 and a KX3, and [hopefully] a KDSP2 for my
K2/10 if someone on the list here has a spare (built or unbuilt) they're
willing to part with.

The full blown K3S will have to wait until the next big set of OT projects
where the XYL doesn't lay claim to the check.

Thanks everyone for their input, it's greatly appreciated :D

On Tue, Jul 19, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Bill Conkling <n...@widomaker.com> wrote:

> AKA “Buy nice, not twice”
>
> …bc  nr4c
>
>
>
> > On Jul 19, 2016, at 4:13 PM, Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu> wrote:
> >
> > Agree fully with the suggestions.
> >
> > As to equipment, I once saw a sign in a high-end telescope shop:  “Buy
> the best first and cry only once.”
> >
> > Ted, KN1CBR
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 30
> > Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 14:46:19 -0400
> > From: "Jerry Moore" <je...@carolinaheli.com>
> > To: "'Reuben Popp'" <reuben.p...@gmail.com>,  "'Elecraft Reflector
> >   Reflector'" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S
> > Message-ID: <002201d1e1ed$d7ebf940$87c3ebc0$@carolinaheli.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I will throw my view into the mix.
> >
> > As a new Ham operator you have no idea what you want to do in the hobby
> > other than EVERYTHING!!!
> > In addition to wanting to do everything we're also most often budget
> limited
> > to some extent.
> >
> > Challenge: Weigh the desire to do everything with  the most cost
> effective
> > way to get started until we know what we actually enjoy.
> >
> > Suggestions:
> > 1. Find a mentor (in our hobby they are called Elmers) to help you along,
> > get you on the air, and help you get experience to find out WHAT you
> ENJOY
> > doing in the hobby.
> > 2. Meet with as many hams who do different things in the hobby as you can
> > and ask them to show you that part of the hobbyexample: HF, UHF/VHF,
> > EME, DX, Contesting, Different modesetc..
> >
> > Once you know what you ENJOY in the hobby you can best invest in the
> > resources to engage.
> >
> >
> > My world view of ham radio gear specific to Elecraft:
> >
> > Most Gear Advantage (generalizations): cheaper, simple to use/operate
> > (appliance operator ), may have firmware updates.
> > Most Gear Disadvantage (generalizations): limited to the manf. Design
> limits
> > and locked to model, firmware updates generally limited to correcting
> bugs
> > and not generally to add features/functionality.
> >
> >
> > Elecraft Disadvantages (my opinion and generalizations): High entry
> price,
> > operator MUST learn to use the gear, configurations can be complex and
> are
> > generally open ended
> > Elecraft Advantages (my opinion and generalizations): Gear is highly
> > adaptable to conditions and configuration based on operator demands a the
> > time, hardware and software upgrades (both hardware and software upgrades
> > have traditionally been for new features/functionality in addition to bug
> > fixes).
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Summary: I would have been happy with a less expensive radio, however, I
> > would have been frustrated at the limitations. I purchased my Elecraft
> K3S
> > specifically to avoid the frustrations I've experienced with other gear
> in
> > the past. To date I've not been let down (although the cost of the
> options
> > has prevented me from doing the add-ons that would be nice to have..e.g.
> sub
> > rx, P3..etc).
> >
> > Jerry Moore
> > AE4PB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > ___
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > You must be a subscriber to post.
> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> >
> > --
> >
> > End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 147, Is

Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 FOR THE K2 HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED

[Reuben Popp]

Hey Mark,

Thanks for that; it was me who noticed that.  Well, crap.  I do have the
audio filter module, but I was hoping to get the DSP module to replace it.
So much for that idea.

Thanks again and 73
Reuben

On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 1:21 PM, Mark E. Musick 
wrote:

> I sent an e-mail to sales about this after someone on the reflector pointed
> out the KDSP2 was no longer on the order page.
>
> Margaret replied that indeed it has been discontinued due to the
> unavailability of parts.
>
> She also said that she would inform the website maintenance folks to add a
> note back on the order page that it has been discontinued.
>
>
>
> Mark Musick, WB9CIF
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Reuben Popp]

Interesting, but the KDSP2 appears to have disappeared on the order page.
Did that part become discontinued for one reason or another?

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:35 PM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Reuben,
>
> Since you do not yet have a license, and you *do* have a K2/10, you
> already have one of the best receivers on the market.  Of course, the K3S
> and the KX3 are a bit better, but the improvement is marginal.
>
> Use the K2 and concentrate on getting your license.
> Once you have your license coming, examine your ham radio budget and your
> aspirations.
> If you can build thru-hole gear, adding the KPA100 to your base K2 will
> get you a 100 watt transceiver at the lowest cost.  It will be a contest
> grade 100 watt class transceiver.
>
> Yes, the Sherwood ratings of the K3/K3S and KX3 surpass the K2, but not by
> much.
>
> OTOH, if you are into SWLing as well as ham radio, the K2 only has good
> response at frequencies close to the ham bands.  The K3S with the KBPF3A
> option is a better choice for SWLing.
>
> That is the technical side of things, your K2 is great for ham band
> reception, and the K3S with KBPF3 is great for receive outside the ham
> bands.
>
> BUT - concentrate on getting your general (or extra) license before you
> consider an upgrade to your already very good Elecraft K2.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 7/17/2016 1:02 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>
>> The higher-end SDR is an option I suppose, but I already have too many
>> receivers as it is.  Two R-390A's, three SP-600 variants, two BC-348s and
>> in the garage two R-1051-B sets.  Yes, I might have neglected to mention
>> before that when I first got into the hobby I was instantly drawn to the
>> boatanchor camp (having been in the Navy myself some years ago).  Needless
>> to say, my K2/10 is the smallest, and most definitely, _lightest_ radio I
>> own.  This coming from the guy who moved most of these into storage in the
>> past two weeks to make room for the baby boy arriving in nine weeks.  Yes,
>> my back is still recuperating, but my chiropractor?  She loves me.  ;).
>>
>> I *will* get my ticket, it's just a matter of when, so if I'm in for a
>> penny on a receiver, I'm in for a pound and I might as well get a
>> transceiver.
>>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Reuben Popp]

Hey Chris,

On my older hollowstate stuff, I usually spray a quantity into a small cup
and then use a q-tip to apply deoxit to areas in a controlled manner.  That
might not make as big a difference on newer equipment, but I was always
told it was a good idea around phenolic tube sockets.

GL and 73
Reuben

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:28 PM, Chris Meagher  wrote:

> Hi
> When the can arrives, I plan to deoxit front panel connections on an early
> K3
> which has tinned connectors.
> This is to try to fix erratic VFO behaviour while tuning.
> Any hints on how to do this effectively? thanks
>
> Chris
> VK2ACD
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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Reuben Popp]

I hear ya... I was in the middle of studying for the general last.  The
tech is.. well, too easy (IMO), so I was going to sit for both tech and
general IF I can actually make it up to St. Louis before sunrise, or if I
can schmooze a few of the local VEs to do a one-off.

As to my K2, I thought about it, but even with the MAB board, the K2 isn't
exactly cut out for data modes.. at least, not very easily.  Unless I'm
completely missing something here.  AM BC bands are so-so in that you get
what's adjacent.  Not knocking my K2.. I _still_ love it, both for what it
is and the fact that it was one of the more fun projects I did while
working on my undergrad in CSc.  I built it with the audio filter module,
the SSB module, and the 160M module.  I did not purchase either antenna
tuner as it's my understanding that a tuner only really helps in TX, not
RX.  And to be frank, all the above was bought using my federal tax return
from my glorious year as a student worker ;).  The only other module I've
thought of adding is the serial port, if only to dig into the code some and
see if I could write some bits for further integration on a linux/BSD
system.

Right now, I'm looking at a budget of ~3500.  In my line of work, OT
doesn't come around much, but when it does, forty hours is a nice treat for
dad, although the XYL has laid claim to the next OT project's funds.



On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 6:51 PM, Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com> wrote:

> Listen to Phil, Reuben...  wise man; good advice.
>
> Seriously, get your license...  you're missing so much without it...
> Just ain't that hard...  Study up for all three and take them all in one
> day...
>
> Had I NOT been in the middle of a gall bladder attack on test day, I
> would have passed all three at once instead of having to go back for
> Extra...
>
>
> 73,
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 7/17/2016 6:44 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
> > Reuben,
> >
> > Since you say you have the K2, I'd get your license before adding any
> > new rig and use the K2 to start out. Even without the amp you can run
> > 10 Watts or so and get your feet wet.
> >
> > After you've operated for a while you'll have a better idea of what
> > you want.
> >
> > OTOH, if you plan to operate SSB 100% of the time (I tend to forget CW
> > is no longer required!), then perhaps you should start with a 100 W
> > rig; 10 Watts on SSB might be a bit discouraging on 20 meters
> > particularly with our current band conditions.
> >
> > If you are willing to start with 10 Watts on SSB, then you might be
> > well advised to add the SSB module to your K2 (assuming it has none
> > now) and get your feet wet with the rig you already own vs. buying the
> > 10W K3s immediately.
> >
> > I consider the K3s/100 to be your best choice if money is no issue.
> > Great rig and great support, both from Elecraft and the user base
> > here. But you should start with it minimally configured (e.g., don't
> > add a bunch of roofing filters -- but do add the ATU because you have
> > a G5RV and will need a good tuner).
> >
> > Below you say "In the past week I found out about the Icom 7300, which
> > for all intents and purposes is one heck of a nifty radio too.". While
> > the IC-7300 has some shortcomings it's a good radio that you could
> > probably be satisfied with for years. So that might be a very good
> > option for you as you first get into ham radio.
> >
> > Whatever you decide, give highest priority to getting your license,
> > Reuben. Then you can start having fun :-)
> >
> > 73, Phil W7OX
> >
> > On 7/3/16 2:44 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
> >> Hey everyone, happy early 4th to you and yours!
> >>
> >> I'm looking for a bit on input here.  I've had my K2 now for quite some
> >> time now; built it myself and love it still to this day.  But, because
> >> every guy and gal needs a new radio every now and then, I've got that
> >> itch.
> >>
> >> I've had my eye on a K3 probably since I first saw the advertisement
> >> in QST
> >> some years back.  I'm not a contester.. heck, I *still* don't have my
> >> ticket, so my main use is SWL and running up and down the bands to
> >> listen
> >> in on some of the nets.  My antenna is just a half size G5RV slung along
> >> the apex of my roof but I've wanted to get my hands on the K3...
> >> that
> >> is until now.
> >>
> >> In the past week I found out about the Icom 7300, which for all
> >> intents and
> >> purposes is one heck of a nifty radio too.  And at $500 les

[Elecraft] Fwd: Help sell me on the K3S

[Reuben Popp]

These days and times, yes... back when I bought the first one it was $300
from Fair Radio.  I paid more for the CY-979A cabinets, the CV-591A SSB
converter and the accompanying LS-206U.  That said, it took a fair chunk
o'change to get the radio back into shape.  Spare modules in good working
condition are not cheap and not getting any cheaper the longer one waits.
Anyway, the point was when I started down that path I was in the process of
building my K2/10..  I wouldn't get rid of either to fund the purchase of
the other, at least, not at this point.

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 4:16 PM, Alan Bloom  wrote:

> On 07/17/2016 12:30 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>
> If one can hear why an R390
>> is a great RX of the era, a low end Icom will not satisfy. For someone
>> who can hear R390 tubes getting soupy, a Flex 6700, an Icom 7851 and a
>> K3 do things right that CAN be heard if you know what to listen for.
>>
>> Flex 6700  $7499
>> Icom 7851  $13099
>> Field upgradeable basic K3S/10 kit $2099
>>
>
> Collins R390A $1500
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Collins-Designed-R-390A-Made-by-Electronic-Assistance-Corporation-/252419777443?hash=item3ac56423a3:g:h9cAAOSwuhhXWhyB
>
> :=)
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Reuben Popp]

I want to express my thanks to all who replied to my original question; my
apologies in the slow response.. It's been a nutty two weeks and I wanted
to take a bit of time to mull things over and do some more research.  With
that in mind... my head hurts .  I've read reviews, looked at specs, and
pretended I knew an ounce of what the Sherwood Engineering lab reports
actually are indicating and/or mean and watched a few [nonstop] days worth
of Youtube videos on various rigs.  Needless to say, I'm in over my head a
bit.

I'm curious to see/hear what the breakdown on primary operating mode for
most K3S users is:  voice, cw, data, [like me, just] swl... mixed?  How
many use it strictly for contesting, and how many use it as their "daily
driver"?

The higher-end SDR is an option I suppose, but I already have too many
receivers as it is.  Two R-390A's, three SP-600 variants, two BC-348s and
in the garage two R-1051-B sets.  Yes, I might have neglected to mention
before that when I first got into the hobby I was instantly drawn to the
boatanchor camp (having been in the Navy myself some years ago).  Needless
to say, my K2/10 is the smallest, and most definitely, _lightest_ radio I
own.  This coming from the guy who moved most of these into storage in the
past two weeks to make room for the baby boy arriving in nine weeks.  Yes,
my back is still recuperating, but my chiropractor?  She loves me.  ;).

I *will* get my ticket, it's just a matter of when, so if I'm in for a
penny on a receiver, I'm in for a pound and I might as well get a
transceiver.  I can never seem to make it out of the house early enough for
the tests, most (if not all) of which are scheduled at some ungodly hour of
the morning, usually long before even the birds start waking.  Okay, maybe
not that early, but it sure seems awfully close...  Either way, that puts
the kabosh (for a bit at least) on contesting, let alone ragchewing.

The KX{2,3} is appealing as well, but as nice as they are, they don't offer
me an upgrade path, or rather, it's limited, and there's no general
coverage module; signal reception is (from what I understand) similar to
the K2 in that regard.  Portable, yes, and quite possibly lower down on the
list, but not something I want or need immediately.

I figured that I can get a K3S/10 with the K3 Panadapter, the general
coverage module, the 2.8Khz filter,  and the SVGA kit for the P3 for
~3400... the approximate cost (or a little under) for a used IC7700 or a
FTDX5000.  Argh, choices!!

Thanks again to all and 73
Reuben




On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 4:44 PM, Reuben Popp <reuben.p...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey everyone, happy early 4th to you and yours!
>
> I'm looking for a bit on input here.  I've had my K2 now for quite some
> time now; built it myself and love it still to this day.  But, because
> every guy and gal needs a new radio every now and then, I've got that itch.
>
> I've had my eye on a K3 probably since I first saw the advertisement in
> QST some years back.  I'm not a contester.. heck, I *still* don't have my
> ticket, so my main use is SWL and running up and down the bands to listen
> in on some of the nets.  My antenna is just a half size G5RV slung along
> the apex of my roof but I've wanted to get my hands on the K3... that
> is until now.
>
> In the past week I found out about the Icom 7300, which for all intents
> and purposes is one heck of a nifty radio too.  And at $500 less than what
> the 10W K3S.  That's a nice chunk of cheddar in these days and times,
> doubly so as Popp #2 will be arriving here come September (on my birthday
> no less, hah).  The downsides are (at least to me) is that there's little
> in the way for adding on new features to the set short of via software
> updates.  There's no second antenna option, etc, etc.
>
> Granted, I'm not looking at getting either one anytime in the immediate
> future.  Or, if I miraculously get one somehow, something is seriously
> wrong, and someone has replaced my XYL with the Stepford model... come
> please make sure I'm okay, lol.  But in all seriousness, help me decide
> here.  Which is the better bang for the buck in the long run?  I'm willing
> to bet that this will be the last rig I get for quite some time yet, so I
> had best make it count.
>
> Thanks in advance to all and 73
> Reuben
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX3 vs K3S Query...

[Reuben Popp]

I've been monitoring this list for similar threads now for a bit now as my
situation is close to Maverick's.  I love my K2, but after having played
with some online sets via WebSDR.org and learning some basics on using a
panadapter has only piqued my interest to getting a newer set.  Data modes
are a new area for me to explore; something that's definitely doable with
the K2, but it takes a bit more effort to get it set up and working.
Beyond that, show me one guy (or gal) among us that has ever said no to the
possibility of a new radio.  ;)

The KX3 setup is appealing to me as I can keep the set near my bed where I
can listen later in the evening and yet keep it portable if I want to take
it with me.  The downsides of it are that it offers limited upgradeability
over time (I still haven't added all the options to my K2 that I built
years back) and what with no ticket, SWL and listening in on some nets are
my main interest.  By the time I end up getting a (new or old) KX3 along
with its panadapter and installing most of the add-ons, I will be
approaching the cost of a base model K3S.  And while I am by no means an
audiophile, I am curious as to how the KX3's bandwidth (~ 4kHz from what
I've read) on the broadcast bands compare to the K3S with the general
coverage module.

Either way, what with less than ten weeks before bambino number two arrives
for the xyl and I, it has been decreed by the missus that I had best make
this count as it will likely be the last large purchase for a bit.
Purchasing a used K3 and upgrading its components are a definite route as
Maverick mentions, but I agree that it imposes a bit of a limit in that I
won't have the "latest and greatest", if only to take advantage of any
improvements on design and/or layout of components.

73
Reuben



On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 7:01 AM, Brian Waterworth <
brian.waterwo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Joel,
>
> For pain point #1: I set up two macros accessible via the same PF key on
> the KX3.  The last couple of macro commands setup a toggle on each macro
> line.  Makes switching between SSB and Digital very easy/fast with the
> press of one button.  I offer the two macros for your consideration.
> Adjust as you like.
>
> KX3 commands to setup for SSB operation:
> SWH29;MD2;BW0300;GT004;MG045;AG010;ML000;PC010;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;MN255;
>
> KX3 commands to setup for Digital operation:
>
> GT002;MG013;AG007;ML007;MD6;DT0;RG250;PA0;PC005;MN096;MP001;MN255;BW;SWH29;
>
> For pain points 2 and 3, I too am suffering from these noise spikes.
> Thanks for your experience and applied knowledge.  Helps me understand the
> situation better.  I noticed these are more prominent when operating the
> KX3/PX3 on a shared battery source via powerpoles.  When I operate the
> KX3/PX3 with their individual wall warts when in the shack, I don't see the
> centre frequency noise.  This is a recent revelation.  I too had to run the
> RX shift at 8KHz this past FD and couldn't use narrowing techniques to
> focus in on a particular PSK signal.  The noise peak was so strong it bled
> 300-500hz into the PSK bandpass.  I suppose I could have removed the PX3
> from the equation as I really don't need it for PSK.  I had it more for
> RTTY.
>
>
> regards,
> Brian
> VE3IBW
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 7:32 AM, Joel Black 
> wrote:
>
> > Let me add a little to the fray then.
> >
> > Up to recently, I had both the K3/P3 combo *and* a KX3. I sold the K3/P3
> > and added a PX3 to the KX3. I am looking to add the KXPA100 sooner or
> later.
> >
> > My K3 had a lot of options:
> >
> > 100 W amp
> > 2nd receiver
> > BPF on the 1st receiver
> > 500 Hz CW filters in both receivers
> > 2.7 kHz SSB filter in both receivers
> > TCXO
> > Tuner
> >
> > Maybe other options, I cannot remember now.
> >
> > Why did I sell the K3/P3? Well, my lifestyle changed. I work a regular
> > 8-hour job sitting behind a desk. It dawned on me a couple of months ago,
> > when I get home, I sit behind a desk. I took up mountain biking (and
> > eventually running and swimming) to get out of the house more often. I
> > pared down my operation to just the KX3 and added the PX3 because I like
> > being able to see what I’m working - I’m spoiled.
> >
> > Downsides to what I did? Yep:
> >
> > 1. Cannot easily switch between voice and data modes on the KX3.
> > 2. Noise spikes all over the PX3 that drive my OCD haywire. This is a
> > product more of how the PX3 receives spectrum from the KX3 and not the
> PX3
> > itself. I never saw all that noise on my P3 because it took the IF from
> the
> > K3. The PX3 takes the I and Q. Now I get to try and get all the noise out
> > of the shack *or* learn to live with it.
> > 3. I have to run the RX SHFT at 8.0 kHz for every band so the KXFL3 is
> > useless to me.
> >
> > I am working on a 3 or 4PDT switch for the voice to data issue. I will
> use
> > a macro on the PX3 to swap between the modes as I did on the K3. I
> haven’t
> > really started working on 

[Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Reuben Popp]

Hey everyone, happy early 4th to you and yours!

I'm looking for a bit on input here.  I've had my K2 now for quite some
time now; built it myself and love it still to this day.  But, because
every guy and gal needs a new radio every now and then, I've got that itch.

I've had my eye on a K3 probably since I first saw the advertisement in QST
some years back.  I'm not a contester.. heck, I *still* don't have my
ticket, so my main use is SWL and running up and down the bands to listen
in on some of the nets.  My antenna is just a half size G5RV slung along
the apex of my roof but I've wanted to get my hands on the K3... that
is until now.

In the past week I found out about the Icom 7300, which for all intents and
purposes is one heck of a nifty radio too.  And at $500 less than what the
10W K3S.  That's a nice chunk of cheddar in these days and times, doubly so
as Popp #2 will be arriving here come September (on my birthday no less,
hah).  The downsides are (at least to me) is that there's little in the way
for adding on new features to the set short of via software updates.
There's no second antenna option, etc, etc.

Granted, I'm not looking at getting either one anytime in the immediate
future.  Or, if I miraculously get one somehow, something is seriously
wrong, and someone has replaced my XYL with the Stepford model... come
please make sure I'm okay, lol.  But in all seriousness, help me decide
here.  Which is the better bang for the buck in the long run?  I'm willing
to bet that this will be the last rig I get for quite some time yet, so I
had best make it count.

Thanks in advance to all and 73
Reuben
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[Elecraft] Mast question

[Reuben Popp]

Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
related.

I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?

There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
abouts).

The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
helps any).

So, what do folks recommend?
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Reuben Popp]

Hah!  Needless to say that beer consumed is beer not wasted, yes?  Unless,
that is, it's something like Hamms (Schlitz lovers I'm looking your way
too), at which point it can hardly be considered beer, right?

Those other tips are a hoot.  I know for one in working on really old stuff
there's been times where a blob of solder would sit there and taunt me (or
my iron) more or less.  Talk about infuriating.  It's all fun and games
until the American Beauty has to come out.  I would hate to "test" one of
those suckers on my skin.  Yeee-ouch!

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 11:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz> wrote:

> Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
> the exercise.
>
> Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
> (some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
> it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
> hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
> part.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
> To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
> Cc: elecr...@qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:
>
> http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> >> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
> >> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Reuben Popp]

I too was overly careful when I built my K2 back around 2006 or so.  That's
not to say I didn't make mistakes :D.   I did, however, take some advice to
heart when assembling it (I believe it came from the website or the
manual), in that for a section, I would add all the components, bending
their leads to stay in place and then come back to solder after checking
things again.  As to whether this helped prevent mistakes, I can't really
say for certain, but I will say I was lucky enough to not experience many
issues with my build.  Anyway, I digress...

I was lucky enough at the time to inherit a Pace desoldering unit (a
MBT-100 in fact) that came from the old circuits course at the local
college.  For through-hole type projects, those things are a godsend.  I
still have it too, having just replaced the handset along with acquiring a
handful of new tips.  If you have it in the budget (and plan on doing more
kits), I highly recommend keeping an eye out for one.  They're discontinued
now from Pace, but there's still plenty out there with lots of life left in
them and parts are available if you look.

That said, I think I used that thing more than not as my "skill" with wick
has only really come to fruition in recent times.

Good luck
Reuben

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic  wrote:

> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>
> --
> Mark
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[Elecraft] Soldering station recommendation in preparation for building a K1

[Reuben Popp]

I built my K2 with an old Weller TC-202 I have here; it's my "go to" iron
for most of my projects. That iron was "gifted" to me after serving hard
time at the local community college.  It's not super pretty, but it still
works and well at that.  You would be hard pressed to find a better deal
IMO.  One can generally pick them up on eBay for ~45 or more in working
condition.  Great iron, and as with most things Weller, one can still
always find parts out there.

HTH
Reuben
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[Elecraft] IMA boards?

[Reuben Popp]

Hey all,

In light of my recent question regarding MAB boards, does anyone have an
extra IMA pcb?  All I need is the pcb as I can source the parts here.

Thanks in advance and 73
Reuben
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Fwd: Yet another D104 mic wiring question.

[Reuben Popp]

Ugh... did it again.  To the reflector!

-- Forwarded message --
From: Reuben Popp <reuben.p...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Yet another D104 mic wiring question.
To: Bob McGraw - K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net>


G'mornin Bob,

The cord on the base is only four wires:  black, red, white and shield.
Note this is a T-UG8 base.. I think the UG8 was the unamplified base?  I
don't know if either had a cord with more than the four wires; I know my
T-UG9 base does.  Internal to the base itself there is a blue wire, as
detailed in http://www.rollanet.org/~rrars/tech_files/d104_manual.pdf.
That is exactly how the mic is wired now.  The only thing I did not rewire
is the leaf switches as they appeared unmolested.  I will take a look at
those tonight as I wanted to check their contacts anyway.  In the old
electromechanical pinball machines, those things would oxidize fairly
quickly, so I thought it would be good to check here anyway.  I will also
give it a whirl with a dummy load.  I only have the small dummy load kit
from Elecraft... I assume that will be okay?

I'll also take a look at bypassing or just flat out removing the preamp
circuit.

Thanks again and 73
Reuben

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:33 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX <rmcg...@blomand.net>
wrote:

> Seems like RF getting  back into the mike or mike circuit.  Be sure the
> Red & Blue wires in the UG8 cable to the radio are correctly wired to the
> switch on the inside  of the base, grip to talk bar switch, and the Black &
> White & Shield which are the audio are correct to the mike connector for
> the radio.  Also try the radio on a dummy load.  If it works correct with
> the dummy load, then sure bet, it is an RFI issue.  That needs to be
> corrected.
>
> If you are using  a medium impedance {what ever that is} element, the
> internal preamp in the UG8 base should not be needed.  There's several
> wiring diagrams on the internet, find one and wire the base accordingly.
>  Personally, unless one is using an original D-104 element, which requires
> a very high load impedance in the order of 3 megohms or more, then the
> "preamp" in the base is not needed and is often more problematic than
> useful.   If you are using the original D-104 element, then the preamp is
> necessary in order for the mike element to see a proper impedance and the
> preamp will drive a lower impedance such as found in today's radios.
> But in other words "more crap = more problems".
>
> I find this site to have good information regarding the D-104 and the UG8
> stand and how to wire the "make before break switch" and the "break before
> make switch". http://www.qsl.net/wa2mzf/d104.html <
> http://www.qsl.net/wa2mzf/d104.html>
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
>
> On 11/8/2015 10:13 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>
>> ast,
>> I also turned the D104 5K pot to a hair above its bottom extremity.Now
>> blowing or whistling or just plain talking into the mic will cause the K2
>> to cut out with a slight bzzt*pop* [from the radio] as the s-meter goes
>> all
>> the way to the right and then goes dark.  This happens every time.
>>
>
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Yet another D104 mic wiring question.

[Reuben Popp]

Whoops, meant this to go the reflector (sorry Don!) :)


A little bit of progress maybe.

I went ahead and rewired the T-UG8 base back to the original schematic to
ensure that it was as "stock" as could be.  I also noticed that the
original crystal element (under the insulating material) looked like
someone pushed it in some (and it had a small pinhole).  I decoupled it and
replaced it with a Shure 99E86 element that I had lying about.

On the radio side of things, I went through the KSB2 alignment procedures,
just to be sure.  SSBA is set to a 3, SSBC is set to 2:1 (at least I think
that's right.. the manual and radio is in the garage).  Last but not least,
I also turned the D104 5K pot to a hair above its bottom extremity.Now
blowing or whistling or just plain talking into the mic will cause the K2
to cut out with a slight bzzt*pop* [from the radio] as the s-meter goes all
the way to the right and then goes dark.  This happens every time.

That said, that Shure element is medium impedance as far as I know, about
300 ohms IIRC.  At that point, can I (or should I?) completely bypass that
preamp?  Can anyone provide an example schematic on the routing without the
preamp?  Is it safe to just use the schematic from the unamplified UG8 base?


Thanks again to all and 73

Reuben


On Nov 4, 2015 9:32 AM, "Don Wilhelm" <w3...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Reuben,
>
> You have it wired correctly.  Pins 7 and 8 are connected together in the
> K2.
> Does the K2 go into transmit when you close the PTT switch?  If so, that
> part is good.
> You may want to check continuity from the mic base to the plug for the
> white (AF) and the Shield (AF return or MIC GND, just to assure yourself
> that the mic cable is intact.
>
> Another continuity check that you can do is between the white wire in the
> base of the mic (with the mic plugged in) to KSB2 P1 pin 5 - that will
> verify that both the mic cable and the K2 wiring for the AF signal is
> correct and intact.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 11/4/2015 10:10 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>
> Hey Don,
>
> I had replaced the original four pin connector with an eight pin according
> to a post I found online for a Kenwood TS-440:
>
> 1 - MIC
> 2 - PTT
> 3 - DOWN
> 4 - UP
> 5 - NC
> 6 - NC
> 7 - MIC-GND
> 8 - COMMON (PTT GND)
>
> "The mic came with an old four pin connector.  The cord itself has three
> wires plus the copper braid/shield:  black, red, and white.  In wiring it
> to a standard eight pin female, white went to pin 1, red to pin 2, copper
> braid to pin 7, and black to pin 8.  On the P2 jumper, I jumpered it as per
> the KSB2 manual for Kenwood for AF, PTT, and the two grounds."
>
> It's quite possible I might have goofed something up here, but I *believe*
> I have it set correctly.  The only thing I can think of is that maybe I
> have the mic ground and PTT ground swapped?  Is the copper braid the PTT
> ground?
>
> Thanks again and 73
> Reuben
>
> On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 8:29 AM, Don Wilhelm <w3...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Reuben,
>>
>> You only need 4 jumpers on the K2 Microphone Configuration Header - AF to
>> 1, PTT to 2, and ground at pins 7 and 8.
>>
>> Since you found that the microphone wiring had been altered, have you
>> checked the wiring from the mic base to the 8 pin plug?
>> the AF should connect with pin 1, PTT connects to pin 2.  Connect the AF
>> return to pin 8 and the PTT return to pin 7.
>>
>> Do you have a Kenwood microphone or can you borrow one from a fellow
>> ham?  That no-name microphone will likely work if you wire the mic plug
>> correctly.
>> See if that microphone works on your K2.  That test will tell you whether
>> to look in the K2 or into the microphone for the problem.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 11/4/2015 9:13 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just as a followup, at the time I didn't have enough jumpers to put one
>> on every set of pins on the mic header.  Is that my issue here?  If so,
>> that part wasn't overly clear in the KSB2 instructions, at least to me, lol.
>>
>> Other than that, I'm running out of ideas here.  I have a no-name dynamic
>> hand mic from a parts bin that I will wire up tonight to see if that works,
>> but after that
>>
>> The only other thing that I can think of is maybe one of the components
>> in the base is bad, whether it's the pot, the switch or something on the
>> amp board.
>>
>> Thanks again to all and 73
>> Reuben
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 6:17 AM, Don Wilhelm < <w3...@embarqmail.com>
>> w3...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Reuben,
>>>
>&g

[Elecraft] MAB boards for the K2?

[Reuben Popp]

Does anyone know if any of the MAB board are still floating out there or
does anyone have a spare for sale?

http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm

Thanks in advance as always, and 73
Reuben
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Re: [Elecraft] MAB boards for the K2?

[Reuben Popp]

Hi Byron

I would like at least one at the bare minimum however if you have a minimum
order requirement I'm sure we can work something out for that as well.

What are you asking per board?

Thanks and 73
Reuben

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015, 5:49 PM Byron Servies <by...@n6nul.org> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have some spare, uncut and unpopulated, MAB boards. I'd have to work out
> a price, but they are here if you want a couple.
>
> 73, Byron N6NUL
>
> On Wednesday, November 4, 2015, Doug Shields <w4...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Rueben,
>>  I brokered the last bunch of MAB boards.  All have been sold.  If
>> there
>> is interest, we can make another run of boards.  I think I have a few
>> parts
>> left over but we can come up with full kits if anyone is interested in
>> those.  If you are interested in boards or kits let me know.
>>
>> Doug  W4DAS
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> Reuben
>> Popp
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2015 4:07 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] MAB boards for the K2?
>>
>> Does anyone know if any of the MAB board are still floating out there or
>> does anyone have a spare for sale?
>>
>> http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm
>>
>> Thanks in advance as always, and 73
>> Reuben
>>
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>>
>
>
> --
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
>
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[Elecraft] Yet another D104 mic wiring question.

[Reuben Popp]

Hey everyone, quick question.

I built my K2 over seven years now and just realized I had never completed
the mic section.  Granted, I didnt have my ticket at the time, so...

Anyway, I recently picked up a d104 mic with a T-UG8 base (the one with the
adjustable preamp in the base).  I have not really verified the wiring in
the base; it looks rather poor in parts, like someone did it with a dirty
iron tip or whatnot but otherwise looks okay.

The mic came with an old four pin connector.  The cord itself has three
wires plus the copper braid/shield:  black, red, and white.  In wiring it
to a standard eight pin female, white went to pin 1, red to pin 2, copper
braid to pin 7, and black to pin 8.  On the P2 jumper, I jumpered it as per
the KSB2 manual for Kenwood for AF, PTT, and the two grounds.

That said, on keying the mic, the K2 goes silent but there is no evidence
on the S meter that anything is happening.  FWIW I have replaced the 9v
battery in the base and attempted the same after adjusting the preamp pot
to each extreme.  Do I need to jumper the other pins on P2 as per the KSB2
instructions?  Do I have the female connector wired correctly?  Or perhaps
I should revisit the wiring on the preamp and make sure someone else didn't
Bubba it in the past...

Any hints, suggestions or help would be most appreciated.
Reuben
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