[Elecraft] K1 Backlight Installation

2012-12-20 Thread Scott Krebs
I've reached the point in assembling my K1 where I install the backlight kit 
and have a few questions:

1. I assume that the black neoprene LCD spacer that comes with the K1 is not 
used when the backlight kit is installed? In other words, the only items under 
the LCD will be the insulator card and backlight?

2. The K1 manual directs shifting to the backlight installation instructions 
immediately after the installation of U1. However, one of the first steps of 
the backlight instructions is to remove U1. Is this step only applicable when 
installing the backlight on a completed K1 where the LCD has to first be 
removed, or is it also applicable to the backlight installation during a new 
build of a K1 (i.e., LCD not previously installed)?

3. Under the section "Preparation of the Backlight Installation Site," the 
backlight instructions direct the flush-trim of all component leads between the 
two rows of LCD PC board pads. Does this mean to flush-trim the U1 socket pins 
or does the insulator card rest on top of the untrimmed U1 socket pins?

4. The backlight instruction graphic shows the right side of the foam tape on 
the insulator card being completely flush with the right side of the blue 
backer paper. However, on my insulator card, the right side of the blue backer 
paper extends about 1/16 inch beyond the right side of the white foam tape. 
Should I trim the right side of the blue backer paper to be flush with the 
right side of the white foam tape?

5. Step 25 of the backlight instructions directs the testing of the backlight 
illumination level prior to soldering the LCD pins. Since I've yet to assemble 
the RF board and, therefore, can't apply power to the backlight as directed in 
this step, is there any other testing of the backlight that I need to do prior 
to soldering the LCD pins?

Scott
N4KTR
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[Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Scott Krebs
My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or on 
the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question that Dean 
asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors with an 
angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer capacitors on 
the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly instructions) but 
does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board trimmer caps. I didn't 
see any additional clarification associated with that thread.

The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that "have one 
side that is flattened." The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round 
profile with a square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like the 
profile of an old-style keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion side 
of the trimmer cap equates to the flattened side of the PCB outline (i.e., 
square protrusion pointing to the rear of the PCB) and have installed my 
trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption correct?

As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The K1 
"DC voltage check" procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 12-14 
VDC. However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power supply 
has an unloaded DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. I also 
note that the K1 specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply voltage of 
8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that once placed under load, my Vanco PS will drop 
to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to use this power supply for the DC 
voltage check procedure?

Scott
N4KTR


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Trimmer Caps

2012-12-24 Thread Scott Krebs
Don,

These are definitely not the blue-bodied trim caps. I'm familiar with those as 
they are used in the KFL1-4, which I've already assembled. No confusion at all 
as to how to orient the blue-bodied, angular-nosed trim caps.

The C13/20 trim caps I've now installed on my RF board appear to have a white, 
cylindrical, possibly ceramic body. There are no flat sides on the main body. 
Underneath the slotted adjusting screw is what appears to be a fiber washer, 
half brown and half white, with a small blob of what appears to be solder 
applied between the side of the adjusting screw and white half of the washer. 
One electrical connector is attached to the back side of the cylindrical body 
while the other electrical connector is attached to the square protrusion from 
the other side of the cylindrical body.

The assumption I made during installation was to match the asymmetrical side 
(i.e., square protrusion) of the trim cap with the flat side marked on the PCB.

Scott

On Dec 24, 2012, at 10:34 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Scott,
> 
> I figure you have the blue bodied trimmers and not the older ceramic ones.
> 
> Look at them carefully - one end is rounded (that will be the wider end with 
> rounded corners) while the 'shorter' end has angular corners and a flat 
> between those corners.  That is the 'flat' side and should be aligned to the 
> flat shown in the manual.  Be aware that the newer gold looking solder pads 
> do not accept silkscreening, so you must align them like is shown in the 
> manual.
> 
> The consequence of mounting them backwards is that you will have to use an 
> insulated tool to adjust them.
> 
> Does that clear up your confusion?
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> On 12/24/2012 9:14 AM, Scott Krebs wrote:
>> My K1 RF board ceramic trimmer capacitors C13 and C20 have an outline shape 
>> that differs from either that described in the K1 assembly instructions or 
>> on the silkscreen outline on the RF board PCB. This is the same question 
>> that Dean asked back on 10/27/12. Don's answer described trimmer capacitors 
>> with an angular shape. This description perfectly describes the trimmer 
>> capacitors on the KFL1-4 filter board (e.g., figure 1 in KFL1-4 assembly 
>> instructions) but does not appear to describe the current crop of RF board 
>> trimmer caps. I didn't see any additional clarification associated with that 
>> thread.
>> 
>> The K1 assembly manual (p. 28) describes C13/20 trimmer caps that "have one 
>> side that is flattened." The trimmer caps supplied with my K1 have a round 
>> profile with a square protrusion on one side of the profile, sort of like 
>> the profile of an old-style keyhole. I'm assuming that the square protrusion 
>> side of the trimmer cap equates to the flattened side of the PCB outline 
>> (i.e., square protrusion pointing to the rear of the PCB) and have installed 
>> my trimmer caps based on this assumption. Is this assumption correct?
>> 
>> As long as I'm pounding away on the keyboard, here's one other question. The 
>> K1 "DC voltage check" procedure on p. 30 calls for a power supply voltage of 
>> 12-14 VDC. However, my trusty old late-70s-vintage Vanco regulated DC power 
>> supply has an unloaded DC voltage of 14.5 VDC as measured with a Fluke 115. 
>> I also note that the K1 specifications on p. 5 lists a required supply 
>> voltage of 8.5-15 VDC. I also suspect that once placed under load, my Vanco 
>> PS will drop to something less than 14 VDC. Is it OK to use this power 
>> supply for the DC voltage check procedure?
>> 
>> Scott
>> N4KTR
>> 
>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> 
> 

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