[Elecraft] CM 500 setings
HI, I'm setting up the CM 500 headset with a new to me K3 for the first time, and having a hard time getting the anti-vox and vox gain balanced for reliable trip without tripping every time I touch the headset or cable. Can anyone recommend a good starting point for this? Thanks, Scott ka9p __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A
Out of an overabundance of caution I thought I'd ask first My manuals for my old Alphas suggest the amplifier keying line is 20 something volts DC +, and the K3 manual says I can key way more than that + DC. So I just wanted to confirm (or learn more): 1) I shouldn't worry about any kind of an outboard relay system, and 2) was curious if there is any other advice re delay settings etc. when using the K3 with old Alphas like the 374A and 76A. Thanks for any thoughts. Scott ka9p __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A
Thanks everyone, seems to be working great at 008 here. On to the next problem :) 73 Scott In a message dated 11/3/2015 2:05:57 P.M. Central Standard Time, j...@audiosystemsgroup.com writes: On Tue,11/3/2015 11:48 AM, Elliott Lawrence wrote: > I use the default setting TX Dly 008 with my 87A with no problem. I would think that it would work fine also with the contempory 76s etc. It works fine with my Ten Tec Titan 425s, which are early '80s vintage, and use a vacuum relay for antenna switching. That relay is the limitation; slower relays will require a longer delay. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue
I did the same thing after having the same problem and have to agree the WInkey USB is (so far) flawless. But I really would like to know how Tom avoids the issue directly keying the radio, especially for portable ops. Operating under W8.1 with direct keying I had about everything that could be shutdown, shutdown, and still hit the 30 WPM wall without the WInkeyer. Scott ka9p In a message dated 12/4/2015 7:01:22 P.M. Central Standard Time, kevin.sto...@mediacombb.net writes: I've used a Winkey USB for about four years now. Perfect code. I don't have to worry about the PC getting busy and screwing up the CW sent with serial lines. On 12/4/2015 11:44 AM, Al Lorona wrote: > Right after the CW SS I composed a message for the list, then trashed it after sleeping on it which I always do before posting. Now that the issue has come up on its own I wish to make an observation. > > During the contest I heard many stations with shortened dits. They sounded pretty bad and I reckon they weren't listening to themselves else they'd have done something about it. > > Presuming that some of these signals were coming out of K3's [because some of these were well-known contesters] I actually got nervous and checked my own signal which, like Tom's, is generated by N1MM+ keying the K3 through DTR, but was relieved to find that my dits were okay. > > So there's something going on out there, and I don't know what it is, but what I do know is that keying through the USB-to-Serial is proven to work well as Tom has verified. He should know; he is a very QRQ CW op. > > > Al W6LX > -- R. Kevin Stover AC0H ARRL FISTS #11993 SKCC #215 NAQCC #3441 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Noise from LEDs
...and I'd add the cheap Chinese LED's are a serious issue. Our garage door opener was randomly working during and after a recent kitchen remodel. After befriending Google, used the KX3 with a snoop loop, and found that switching on either of 2 banks of new LED's generated enough RF to swamp the garage door opener receiver about 15 feet away. At least in our case the KX3 and loop did a good job of identifying which LED fixtures were the offending culprits, but finding a listing of good vs. bad brands remains difficult, if anyone has seen one would love to know... 73 Scott ka9p In a message dated 2/2/2016 8:30:33 A.M. Central Standard Time, w...@cox.net writes: I don't usually chime in on these threads, but not all LED's are culprits. I had originally replaced all the incandescent bulbs in my house with the compact fluorescent (CFL) type. My noise floor went up a couple of dB when any of them were on, so after a couple of those so called "5000 hour" Chinese CFL's actually burned up (yes, smoke, fire and flames) I bit the bullet and replaced all the fluorescent lights in the house with LED's, including some ceiling fixtures that used 2 and 4 foot tubes. Even though I don't have any "light dimmers" in the house, I bought the "dimmable" LED 60 and 75 watt equivalents and now my noise when they on is exactly the same as when they are all off. Getting rid of the CFL's and doing to the LED's dropped my noise floor to whatever the atmospheric (plus whatever the neighbors generate) noise floor is. Sure glad those CFL's tried to burn down my house as it caused me to get rid of them. I was able to hear and work the South Georgia VP8SGI station on 15 meters and he was only maybe S1 here. Bad propagation to that part of the world from Kansas even with 500 watts and a beam so I missed the South Sandwich part. Never heard them except on 30 meters and my antenna favors East/West and I swear some of the people that worked them on 30 were so strong here that HAD to be using more than the legal power limit on 30. Jim - W0EB > > > >On Mon, 2016-02-01 at 22:48 -0500, johnpierce wrote: >> My kitchen, under cabinet lights, are LEDs. With those lights turned >> on my >> noise floor changes from -128db to -102db. If the circuit is changed >> to a >> different phase the noise improves by 6db. All of this at 7mhz and >> other >> higher bands. Needless to say the AM broadcast band is highly >> affected by >> the LEDs. >> >> >> >> Placing a type 31 core with three turn of the AC line feeding the LED >> power >> supply and a clamp on 31 core on the LED side of the power supply >> provides >> no improvement! I do not have an oscilloscope to look at the >> waveforms. >> But given what I have done, why is there no improvement? I was >> following >> recommendations provided by NK7Z. >> >> --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] APF (audio peaking filter) on the K3/K3S/KX3
In the last month of listening to really weak signals here in 9 land I've found it helpful but not radical. Just for fun I tried tuning some of the same VP8SGI signals on a Drake 2B/2BQ and found adding the 2BQ in the mix more user friendly and making a bigger difference, but hey, the 2B was starting from a worse spot. Still it would be nice if the APF was user adjustable like the 2BQ or the old outbaord audio filters, peak magnitude, and maybe even frequency, within a selected passband. Not sure why Wayne picked only 3 db - I'd like it to be user adustable to try a bit more peak if conditions permit. If APF is user adjustable in that way and I missed it somebody please point out the page numberor if the experiment's been done and it's not workable would like to know that too. 73 Scott ka9p In a message dated 2/5/2016 11:08:53 A.M. Central Standard Time, ho13d...@gmail.com writes: > one must also discover the > artful use of the RF Gain control as well Adjustment of the RF gain control is not mentioned in Wayne's note on using APF. When I tried it here, the RF gain might have made some small difference but it still did not allow un-copyable signals to be copied. When testing APF I have made all adjustments the I thought might affect signal quality. IIRC correctly I also tinkered with the AGC parameters. But the APF never produced results any better than simply narrowing the filters. Usually the regular narrow filters worked better. I know I had not switched APF on for months. I did switch it on to recheck before sending my note. But the noise is not currently high enough to give it a good test. I have found, in general, that careful adjustment of the RF gain control can be useful. This applies to all receivers I have tried it on. I'm wondering if the difference is in the type of noise. I have mostly tried APF at times of high lightning activity. I think we in the SE get more of that than other parts of the country. The higher noise level means more weak signals. You need all the help you can get. But that noise differs from the usual band noise. And it may depend on each individual's hearing. I have always puzzled over why some rave about how great APF is while for myself, and obviously others, it is of no help at all. 73 de dave ab9ca/4 On 2/5/16 10:13 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote: > While I find the APF works really nice, one must also discover the > artful use of the RF Gain control as well. Most hams seem to use > excessive RF Gain which will force noise through the filter and all of > those undesirable artifacts will be heard. If in doubt, reduce the RF > Gain. > > Using this technique, I can tune the band with the APF engaged, > adjusting the RF Gain a bit, and actually hear signals with this > configuration which without the APC no signal could be heard. I view > this gives one the ability to actually "dig signals out of the noise". > > 73 > Bob, K4TAX > > On 2/5/2016 9:56 AM, dave wrote: >> >> I'd agree. My experience with APF is that it will indeed pop a >> signal that is already copyable, if a bit weak, out of the noise. >> Makes for easier copy. However the ringing is so bad on a really >> weak signal that it is of no help. I guess it depends on what you >> view as 'weak' and your noise level. I was hoping it would make >> previously un-copyable signals copyable, but that does not happen. >> Instead it improves the copyability of weak but already copyable >> signals. >> >> I find that simply narrowing the filters to 50, 100, or 150 Hz will >> give essentially identical results as using the APF and is much >> easier to do. >> >> As for the super critical tuning, I do not find it to be all that >> critical. The signal can be improved somewhat by going to the 'fine' >> tuning, but it makes only a small difference. 10 Hz steps are OK and >> much quicker. The APF has a BW of about 30 Hz so tuning cannot be >> all that critical. +/- 5 Hz out of 30 is not that big of a deal. >> >> This has been one of my biggest disappointments with the K3. After >> reading all the hype about APF I was hoping for a real improvement. >> But does not happen. OTOH, the narrow filters of the K3 are >> outstanding. >> >> 73 de dave >> ab9ca/4 >> >> >> >> On 2/5/16 8:53 AM, David Kuechenmeister wrote: >>> I tried this the other day with no success. That is, the weak >>> signal that was barely detectable, became so buried in ringing that >>> I couldn't detect it at all. I think I followed the procedure >>> outlined in Wayne's email below... Noise was around S5 on 40m and >>> the K3 was configured with APF active. I had my 500 Hz filter >>> selected and varied the DSP WIDTH from 500 to 300 without >>> substantial improvement. FINE tuning selected. What am I >>> forgetting? vy 73,Dave N4KD >>> >>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 9:36 AM, Wayne Burdick >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Hi all, >>> >>> This morni
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Strong recommendation: MFJ 18xx-series single-band w...
HI Barry, I expect your antenna is ok, or at least not mislabeled I don't have a 20 meter version to measure, but I do have the 17 meter version. It works fine on 17 with the KX3 with a drag wire or radial. On an AA30, with no counterpoise, it repeatedly measures resonance sharply at about 23.4 mHz. But that's an all plastic analyzer case. I've seen it lower on my old MFJ with the metal case, but still not resonant without any counterpoise. Based on that I'd guess your 17 meter resonance is a coincidence, and the result of measuring it as you did, not a mislabeling issue. I've done a lot of work over the last year with analyzers and small whips since Wayne started looking for the Holy Grail mini-antenna, and I can assure you that if you're looking for reliable low SWR and resonance, you should only do the experiment as you intend to use the antenna. With the KX3 as a handheld this meant holding the radio with mounted antenna the way you plan to in the field, with a drag wire or radial of the length you plan to use, and over the type of ground you expect, strung out as you plan to sit, stand or walk. I ended up going with a single 12 in section of Buddistick mast on a bracket, a mini or regular coil, and a standard whip. This is surprisingly light and breaks down to 12 inches. With the regular coil and a 13 foot drag line I can usually manage to do 10 - 30 meters (sadly will NOT hit 40) with preset taps on the coil, sitting on a bench on average terrain without having to use the tuner. But change anything and it's up for grabs again, hence having a tappable coil in the filed is a blessing. Not so necessary with the KX3 and auto tuner, but with an 817 or KX3 without tuner, a must. Have fun. Scott ka9p In a message dated 4/3/2016 5:38:09 A.M. Central Daylight Time, kx3-nore...@yahoogroups.com writes: Thanks for all the responses. Don, your comments are much appreciated and I planned on building a bracket just as you describe and mounting my whip/counterpoise to the top of a trekking pole.. Again, I'm not asking about antenna performance. I will add the counterpoise in actual operation. I'm asking if anyone out there who actually owns the MFJ-1820T can please connect it directly to a antenna analyzer and check 20M performance. Yes, I believe these antennas actually DO resonate just as they are. I believe mine is 17M (mislabeled), not 20M, and just looking to confirm that. Thanks & 73, Barry N1EU On Sun, Apr 3, 2016 at 9:34 AM, Bruce Nourish <_w0mbt@w0mbt.net_ (mailto:w0...@w0mbt.net) > wrote: Did you have a counterpoise when you swept the antenna? If not, you're only looking at half your antenna, especially as the RigExpert is almost all plastic. On Sun, Apr 3, 2016, 01:15 Barry N1EU <_n1eu.barry@gmail.com_ (mailto:n1eu.ba...@gmail.com) > wrote: If anyone else out there has an MFJ-1820T and also an antenna analyzer, I wonder if you could please do me a favor. Please just connect the whip directly to the analyzer and tell me what the SWR looks like across the 20M and the 17M bands. I swept my MFJ-1820T with my Rig Expert AA-30 and my MFJ-1820T is resonant on 17M, not 20M. I'm wondering if I have a mislabeled MFJ-1817T. Thanks & 73, Barry N1EU __._,_.___ Posted by: Barry N1EU _Visit Your Group_ (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KX3/info;_ylc=X3oDMTJmMzRpanF0BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzc0NTIwOTQ3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzEwOARzZ WMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzE0NTk2Nzk4ODY-) * _New Members_ (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KX3/members/all;_ylc=X3oDMTJnNDlucmNtBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzc0NTIwOTQ3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA 2MzEwOARzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2bWJycwRzdGltZQMxNDU5Njc5ODg2) 12 (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo;_ylc=X3oDMTJlY2c3MWJuBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzc0NTIwOTQ3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzEwOARzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTQ1OTY3 OTg4Nw--) • _Privacy_ (https://info.yahoo.com/privacy/us/yahoo/groups/details.html) • _Unsubscribe_ (mailto:kx3-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe) • _Terms of Use_ (https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/) __,_._,___ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] My KAT500 is sick :(
Time to ask for advice... I have off the air at the home shack for 6 months because of work. I covered up everything, all disconnect from antennas and power. Now work is back to normal so on my vacation I unpacked the K3, P3, and KAT500 and began hooking all up again--the only difference from before is that I improved the ground system. The K3 worked Ok except somehow there were a bunch of errors of modules not working that were not even installed (?), but that was easily fixed and I updated the firmware. All good. Same with the P3. However, the KAT500 does not respond to the utility and is locked on ant. 1. It does seem to tune, but something is wrong. I checked with a spare KUSB, but no luck there. I checked cables, etc., and all seems Ok, so I thought best to ask before trying anything else. Any ideas where to start? Thanks and 73 for now. Scott. AA0AA, XE1/AA0AA Sent from Scott's iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 is sick :(
I was afraid of that. I am in the shack now to try it again, but it is the same. I live where it is dry so I haven't open it yet to check for something loose or corroded. I was hoping for some magic solution from here first! Do you think it is worthwhile to try that (the ham way!) first before calling? I built so am not afraid of that, but wanted to look for advice first. Scott Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 30, 2015, at 19:54, Mike Flowers wrote: > > Hi Scott, > > The KAT500 is pretty resilient, so if it's not responding to the utility > after a power cycle, then time to call Elecraft support. > > - 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, President - NCDXC > > -Original Message- > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Scott > via Elecraft > Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2015 4:10 PM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] My KAT500 is sick :( > > Time to ask for advice... > > I have off the air at the home shack for 6 months because of work. I > covered up everything, all disconnect from antennas and power. Now work is > back to normal so on my vacation I unpacked the K3, P3, and KAT500 and began > hooking all up again--the only difference from before is that I improved the > ground system. > > The K3 worked Ok except somehow there were a bunch of errors of modules not > working that were not even installed (?), but that was easily fixed and I > updated the firmware. All good. Same with the P3. > > However, the KAT500 does not respond to the utility and is locked on ant. 1. > It does seem to tune, but something is wrong. I checked with a spare KUSB, > but no luck there. I checked cables, etc., and all seems Ok, so I thought > best to ask before trying anything else. > > Any ideas where to start? > > Thanks and 73 for now. > Scott. AA0AA, XE1/AA0AA > > Sent from Scott's iPad > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message > delivered to mike.flow...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Why no love for the 1khz CW filter?
That raises an interesting question. Looking at Rob's numbers (assuming I've read the chart footnotes correctly) he's done the close in numbers for the KX3 with and without the roofing filter. But the close in numbers for K3S numbers were only done with the cw roofing filters. Is there with/without roofing filter data available for the K3S I missed? I realize the proof is in the performance, but still, inquiring minds and all that. Cheers Scott ka9p In a message dated 2/1/2017 9:51:57 A.M. Central Standard Time, w...@w0mu.com writes: I have a 1k filter. Does it make much difference. I have no clue really. Would I be better served with an FM filter? maybe . My main receiver has 2.8. 1.8. 1.0 400 and 250 or 200 filters. I do ssb contest and travel to DX locations from time to time. The SSB filters are essential. For CW I honestly think that the 400 is fine for most. I dislike the sound when I really crank the skirts down on CW but sometimes you must so it is nice to have it. If you plan to do diversity receivers you need the same filters in each one and they need to be "matched" as close as possible to get the best results. 2.7 and 400 and and FM filter if you want fm and or AM would be fine for many. W0MU On 2/1/2017 4:26 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote: > Hi Andy, > > several replies giving you an ideas over here. > Refer to Jim, K9YC...it is short and clear. > > I am recommending you to simply stay calm. > Turn your radio ON, sit and play... > Use it daily in different situation for few months > then you will be more familiar with radio and > all functions behavior and you will have better idea > what you really need. > > Good luck and enjoy your K3! > > 73 - Petr, OK1RP > (K3/100 #778 since 2008) > > > > > - > http://ok1rp.blogspot.com > -- > View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Why-no-love-for-the-1khz-CW-filter-tp7626342p7626353.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to w...@w0mu.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts
As long as we're hoping how about a swappable input board to allow it to be driven to full output by a KX3 as soon as the rule changes. Ditto for the KPA500..that's when I'll buy mine. Or at least allow an experimenter to easily modify his own without voiding a warranty if the rule doesn't change Scott ka9p In a message dated 3/17/2017 3:01:02 P.M. Central Daylight Time, n...@earthlink.net writes: My wish list for a 1500 watt Elecraft linear: Separate power supply so I can lift it one piece at a time. Light weight power supply. Wide-range automatic antenna tuner with memory. Quite fans, low noise. Solid-state QSK. 160 - 6 meters. Auto band change by RF sensing. Auto band change from the transceiver. Power limited on 30/60 meters. 11 meters blocked. Multiple antenna jacks with auto selection. Built-in SWR and watt meters. Antenna selection and SWR/watt meters work when amp is off. Two radio inputs. Elecraft styling. Remote control capability via LAN. 1500 watts no time limit. Auto AC voltage selection on power supply. Bert N8NN -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 1:07 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts Interesting discussion. Folks, if we did introduce a 1500 W solid state amp similar to our KPA500 in operation, what features etc would be important? 73, Eric /elecraft.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to n...@earthlink.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2M module SMA connector loosening
I agree with Mike, Because of Arrow-induced self-flagellation, I'm using a SMA to BNC cable when I do satellite work, with the adapter cable secured with a little homemade clamp at the knurled KX3 cabinet screw to keep stress and torque off the KX3 connector. 73 Scott ka9p -Original Message- From: Mike Parkes To: Ryan Noguchi ; elecraft Sent: Sat, May 26, 2018 1:14 pm Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 2M module SMA connector loosening Ryan, Another option is to use a short length of coax, sma male to sma female, to avoid the issue of something torquing the SMA jack on the KX3 loose. Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/DHT-Electronics-coaxial-assembly-female/dp/B00COJWS32/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527357956&sr=8-5&keywords=sma+male+to+sma+female+cable On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 10:51 AM, Ryan Noguchi wrote: > Thanks for your email, Mike. > > I was thinking of trying to keep the Loctite on just one side of the > connector (leaving the other side with metal-to-metal contact) and possibly > also shaving off some paint from the outside of the KX3 case to provide > better contact on that side. I think I'll hold off on that thought for now, > as I'm not sure that's such a great idea. > > I'll let you know if I get any ideas or offline suggestions. > > 73, Ryan AI6DO > > > On Saturday, May 26, 2018, 9:36:26 AM PDT, Mike Parkes > wrote: > > > Ryan, > I experienced the same issue on my kx3 also. I was able to tighten it down > enough with a wrench to keep it snug so far, but still keep an eye on it. I > also thought abt locktite but didn't like the idea of introducing non > conductive material between the case and the jack. > 73's Mike AB7RU > > On May 26, 2018 8:01 AM, "Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft" < > elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote: > > I recently bought and installed the KX3-2M transverter module in one of my > KX3s and am enjoying a much better experience receiving the downlink from > the Mode B AMSAT birds, compared to the TH-F6A I was using previously. > Sensitivity and ergonomics are a huge improvement. > Unfortunately, I find that the SMA connector loosens very quickly. I've > already had to open the case and almost completely uninstall the > transverter once (undoing and redoing everything except the internal coax > connections) just to retighten the nut, and it's already worked itself > loose again. Does anyone have a trick they used to keep the nut from > loosening? I can't get a lot of leverage with needlenose pliers with such a > skinny nut in such close proximity to fragile components, and the thin > lockwasher doesn't seem to be very effective. I thought I had cranked it > down pretty tight, but apparently not tight enough. > I seems that it would have been better to have the separate nut on the > outside end of the connector (like the connectors on the PX3), since those > can be tightened up very easily from the outside. > One option might be to use Blue Loctite. I don't think I'd ever need to > remove it unless Elecraft comes up with a dual-band (2M and 70CM) internal > transverter to replace it, but this option would likely be permanent since > I don't think I could get enough mechanical leverage to break the Loctite > and don't think heating up the connector to loosen the Loctite would be a > good idea. > Any better ideas? > Thanks and 73, Ryan AI6DO > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to mspma...@gmail.com > > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU parts question
I'm taking a parts inventory and noticed that I've been provided with a 78L06 instead of an 78L05. Is this expected or should I contact Elecraft for the specified part? Thanks,Scott N1ST __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Wanted: K1 filter board
Please email me if you have a -2 or -4 board. I'm looking for 80m, so any of the following would be acceptable: bare board, bare board with 80 parts unassembledassembled board with 80m Thanks,Scott N1ST __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I guess since the thread is still alive, and because I use my Elecraft rigs with said tower :) I'll wade in here, because I spent a fair amount of time researching this two years ago before reinstalling my Wilson TT-45, which is very similar. Everyone is right, one way or the other. The tower wind curve I have shows 3 square feet of wind load for a total tower height of 43 feet in a 78 mph wind. Another 50 mph curve supplied with the rotating base is done at 50 mph, and says 12 square feet at a total height of 45 feet. But both curves, as well as the more recent US Tower data, rely on the use of a house bracket in the analysis. A much more recent US Tower doc shows 4.8 square feet of wind load, for 85 MPH 3 second gusts, but with the tower at a height of 21 feet. This was from a California PE analysis, and it also referenced the house bracket. So the answer, "it depends" depends on at least wind speed (or gust) used, what base, the use of a house bracket, height of the mast in the top section, and what the current sq ft numbers for your antenna happen to be, which seem to be changing in some cases :). After crunching some numbers, I decided to limit my use to 34 feet self-supporting with a hex and a rotating base . It's definitely worth doing the math. I'm happy to share PDF's of the reference stuff with anyone that needs it. Scott ka9p (sorry Eric) In a message dated 7/13/2016 5:08:53 P.M. Central Daylight Time, w6vy...@gmail.com writes: Hi Mike, I don't know where the 3 SQ-FT comes from. US Tower does not publish ratings for the MA series any longer. I have had an MA-40 since 1982 and at that time the rating was 10 SQ-FT @ 50 MPH winds fully extended. I have confirmed this with US Tower in the past. I was also told at that time that they do not rate the tower retracted. There have been some new regulations concerning tower ratings in the past couple which is probably why they do not list it now. I have had a 3 Element SteppIR on this tower since 2006. The HRO website still lists the rating at 10 SQ-FT. That being said, I do retract the tower if winds of 50 MPH are predicted or if I am leaving for any length of time. My base is 3 X 3 X 5 which was recommended at that time and I have the drawings for that. I think the 3 SQ is indicating the size of the extended portion which is 3 inches square. Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST) From: Mike K2MK To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Terry, I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at 3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2 element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20 or 30 mph were forecasted. Cranking it up and down is very easy on the arm. It cranks easily but requires 100 cranks. Tilting it over and cranking it down and back up requires much greater effort until the mast is at the 45 degree angle. I would have liked to have a power driven winch for that operation. The foundation for this mast is substantial with lots of rebar. I'm selling my house and just had the top 12" of concrete removed so that I could replace it with grass. It took a crew longer to remove the 12" then it did for the crew to dig and pour the foundation in the first place. I'm thankful I didn't have to any of the work. This mast can actually be handled by one person if you have moderate equipment to help. I had a wheeled lawn cart for rolling it around and a Harbor Freight 1 ton shop crane for taking it off of the flat bed delivery truck and helping to engage and dis-engage the mast into the MRB40 unit. With two people it's a very simple job. All of my experiences were good and given the opportunity I would not hesitate to purchase another one. I have a personal website with lots of photos. Contact me directly if you want the link. k2mk at comcast dot net 73, Mike K2MK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] [K3] Setting up signalink, fldigi, and K3
Hi all, The bands were dead here today so I started working on getting the new signalink working. I usually run flrig with fldigi on my macbook pro hooked directly to the K3. I got the signalink for a new laptop. I start flrig and let it stay in the background while I work with fldigi. Everything works fine this way. Here's what's happening: the signalink will key and un-key the K3 just fine. Fldigi will key the K3, transmit and receive normally, but the signalink un-key fine, but the K3 does not un-key unless I push the xmit button, and then it will change to receive. Flrig keys and un-keys the K3 just fine. I haven't tried using the signalink without frig. As well, the waterfall is very light. I turned up the line output to 20, with receeive knob at middle turn, but it is still light. Lots of signals are decoded but there are few traces. Any help out there? Thanks, Scott. AA0AA Sent from Scott's iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: PSK31 will not allow Split operation
You can run split if you use a program like fldigi. I worked WIAW/0 this afternoon this way. I believe any program with a waterfall can run split--that is not the same as direct readout on the screen, but it is better than nothing. 73, Scott. AA0AA PSK31 SPLIT: Folks, It seems the solution is there is no solution. PSK31 SPLIT appears unsupported in the K3 and the KX3. The argument seems to be PSK31 is never used in SPLIT operation. But W1AW/* uses Split for pileups. And many DXpeditions have used it (T32C for instance). While I rarely use any digital mode other than CW, I thought it was nifty to have RTTY and PSK31 as part of the K3. Turns out it is near nifty. :) Ah, but maybe SPLIT for PSK31 is on on the list of things to come later? or have I missed something? ?Bob W1XT, Sun City West, Arizona Sent from Scott's iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] [KX3] connection KX3-KXPA100-KAT500
Hi all, I have a KX3 with ATU and a KXPA100 with ATU (an overkill, I know, but I didn't buy them together and they are for operating separately in the field). I would like hook both the KXPA100 and my K3 to the KAT500 in the shack through a coaxial switch, but I can't get the new KXPA100 to play well with the KAT500. The amp keeps changing from bypass to auto and sometimes the atu in the KX3 also kicks out of bypass. The rig and amp/atu work fine connected directly to the antenna. I am still learning with the new amp, but if anyone has suggestions they are welcome. 73, Scott. XE1/AA0AA, AA0AA Sent from Scott's iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
