Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
Thanks, Don!  73, KQ7TJ



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 


Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
Thank you!

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:28 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place.  Just
> put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
> manual.  The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or
> can
> > I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 


[Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 


[Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
I just redid my Transmitter Alignment on my K1, using a wattmeter, which I
didn't have when I originally built it.  I have removed the Antenna Tuner -
now on to redoing my TX Offset - to do that do I leave the Antenna Tuner off
and proceed, or do I reinstall the Antenna Tuner and then proceed with the
TX Offset Alignment?  (As described on page 47 of the manual - the part
where you install a jumper between the OFS pads, turn the AGC OFF, set power
to 1.o watts and Adjust C13.)

 

Any help is much appreciated - I've determined I'm not transmitting on the
same frequency on which I'm receiving and am thus attempting to get the TX
Offset properly set.

 

Tom 

KQ7TJ

 

"I am an old man and have known a great many troubles, but most of them
never happened."

- Mark Twain

 

__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com 


[Elecraft] KNB1 Installation Order & Diode

2019-04-04 Thread Tom Johnson
I've completed my K1 RF Board, 4 Band Filter Board, and Antenna Tuner Board,
and I am now moving on to Transmitter alignment before installing the
Antenna Tuner.  

I discovered the KNB1 Noise Blanker is still available and just received it. 
(Thanks, Elecraft!)

1)  I'm assuming I should install the Antenna Tuner first, then install the
KNB1 - is that correct?

2)  As to replacing D2 (1N4148) WITH D2A (green LED) - what are the
arguments for and against that?  As I will be using the K1 in a variety of
locations in the Field it will obviously be impractical to install the diode
on site if I discover high noise level interference there.  Why not just
initially install the diode to raise the threshold in order to cover worst
case scenarios?

73,
Tom
KQ7TJ



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem - RESOLVED

2019-03-25 Thread Tom Johnson
Thanks, Don Wilhelm, your intuition was correct:  I installed a 120pF
capacitor at C12. When I replaced it with the correct 1200pF capacitor the
frequency display worked! 

73,
Tom
KQ7TJ


Don Wilhelm wrote
> Tom,
> 
> Triple check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200pF and that you 
> did not use the 120pF capacitor for one of them.
> 
> Build yourself an RF Probe.  The schematic for one is shown in the K1 
> Manual Appendix on Troubleshooting.  You can also purchase a kit from 
> Elecraft.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/23/2019 10:03 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> 
>> I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
>> attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
>> board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
>> problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
>> to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.
>> 
>> I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was
>> hoping
>> that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.
>> 
>> It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
>> installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc
>> for
>> the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've
>> confirmed
>> the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
>> wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning
>> of
>> L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
>> previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
>> continuity of the windings on L1.
>> 
>> Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my
>> multimeter
>> does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case:
>> ie,
>> would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?
>> 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:

> Elecraft@.qth

> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html





--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike Morrow!  The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04,
2013.  I think you answered him and that's where I saw your name.  I'm
obviously not adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a
string of replies to David I didn't read.

73



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike!  The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04, 2013.  I
think you answered him and that's where I saw your name.  I'm obviously not
adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a string of
replies to David I didn't read.

73



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike!  I'm obviously not fully cognizant of how the reflector works. 
I thought the original message I was replying to would be included in the
string.  It was back from 2013.



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
I have exactly Mike Morrow's problem, and wonder if he ever got it resolved. 
Mike, if you are still around I'd like to hear what your resolution was.

I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.  

I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was hoping
that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.

It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc for
the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've confirmed
the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning of
L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
continuity of the windings on L1.  

Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my multimeter
does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case: ie,
would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?

I purchased my K1 18 years ago directly from Eric Schwartz when Elecraft was
still quite young and I was active in the Santa Cruz County Amateur Radio
Club. It is great to see how the company has grown and prospered!  It wasn't
until settling into retirement that I mustered up the courage to tackle
building this project.  

If anyone has any theories on the K1 VFO failure issue other than those
already offered, please clue me in.  

73,
Tom Johnson
KQ7TJ (formerly KQ6DV)






--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


[Elecraft] K1 RF Board Prep for KAT1

2019-03-20 Thread Tom Johnson
Before I go cutting into the RF Board (Revision D, year 2000) and soldering
resistors and capacitors together, I want to clarify my understanding.  

1)  Does "Solder capacitor RF-C76 across RF-R39.." mean that I leave RF-R39
soldered to the board and additionally solder the leads of RF-C76 onto the
leads of RF-R39 on each side?  

2) I do CUT the trace the right of "DRV" and install RF-R4 between the
trace's contact points?  

3) I'm at this point only through Part I of the RF Board assembly and
alignment - I have already built the 4 Band Filter Board (KFL1-4, Revision
B), and KAT1 Revision C.  I'm assuming I do NOT prep the RF Board and
install the KAT1 board until I've completed the assembly and alignments of
the RF and Filter Boards?

73




--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


[Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Melt Down

2019-03-14 Thread Tom Johnson
I just completed my K1 RF Board through to the DC Voltage Checks section.  I
plugged into a 12 V Battery Pack and did not get any smoke from the board
when I turned on S1.  But I did not get a voltage reading from pin 15 on P1. 
I did get a reading between 3.8 - 4.2 on P1 pin 16.  I went back to trying
to get a reading from P1 pin 15, and then noticed my battery pack (8 1.5 V
AA) was bubbling and melting down - very HOT!  

Does anyone have any clues as to what went wrong?  My only guess is if RFC1
(33 uH RF choke) and RFC4 (100 uH RF choke) are directional, I may have them
reversed: I thought like resistors they are not directional.

73



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


Re: [Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Tom Johnson
Thank you!

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 12:53 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item.  Use it.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up
> and
> > installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that
> came
> > with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
> > from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but
> also
> > has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this
> is
> > simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?
> >
>
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


[Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Tom Johnson
I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but also
has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this is
simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?

Tom Johnson
KQ7TJ



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html