[Elecraft] Re: K3 AGC Adjustment Parameters

2007-10-11 Thread adamkern
Wayne,

I read your reply to this thread with great consideration.

I think your observation that most field testers did not
adjust the AGC parameters is a good one.

However, I think that that K3--and the Elecraft product line
in general--particularly appeals to people who value amateur
experimentation.

Perhaps the solution is to enable the AGC customization
feature, and simply state explicitly in the instructions with
a large caveat and explanation the fact that most people do
not change the setting, and most of those who do, do so to
their detriment.  That statistic speaks for itself.  Those who
are so inclined can proceed at their own risk.

I, for one, would not plan on tweaking the feature.  But for
someone who, after all, is planning on assembling his own K3,
it's nice to know the option is there :)

Adam, N1KO
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[Elecraft] FT report on K3 subreceiver

2007-10-08 Thread adamkern
Are there any field tester reports on subreceiver function and
integration?

N1KO
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[Elecraft] K3 manual

2007-07-16 Thread adamkern
Will the K3 instruction manual have appropriately placed
sidebars or cross references for installation of optional
accessories at the time of original build, or will the
assembler have to cross reference accessory manuals his or
herself?

N1KO
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[Elecraft] K3 S-meter

2007-07-09 Thread adamkern
Does the K3's bar-graph S-meter have a function to momentarily
hold a bar at the 'peak' value?

N1KO
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[Elecraft] KAT3

2007-07-08 Thread adamkern
Listhost archives seem to be down at the moment, so apologies
if the following question has already been asked:

Can Wayne, Eric or anyone else comment more on the KAT3
design?  Specifically, how is the matching network configured,
is it balanced or unbalanced and is there any balun built-in?

Thanks,

Adam, N1KO
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[Elecraft] re: KAT3

2007-07-08 Thread adamkern
P.S. I just realized there's a backup listhost server.  Oops.
 Original question still stands.

N1KO
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[Elecraft] K3 subreceiver question

2007-07-03 Thread adamkern
With the K3 subreceiver installed and while using binaural
audio output from both receivers, is there a provision so that
a switch toggles between memory VFO A/B within one receiver,
and not between (physical) main- and sub-receivers?

Example: If working a split DX pileup, can you set one
receiver to the DX frequency, the other receiver to a
frequency in the pileup and use a toggle to switch the pileup
receiver between soft VFOs so that one can alternately listen
to the pile with wide/narrow filters?  Or, does one have to
adjust the DSP/XFIL filter width on the pileup receiver?

TNX,

N1KO
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[Elecraft] K3 subreceiver questions

2007-05-06 Thread adamkern
1) Can the sub-RX receive off the same antenna as the main RX
at the same time?

2) Can the main-RX and sub-RX be used in any combination of
antenna inputs, including ANT1, ANT2 and RX ANT IN?

3) Can the sub-RX provide unbroken audio using any antenna
input while the K3 is transmitting?

4) Can the DVR audio recording function be slaved to the sub-RX?

5) How long is the recording buffer in the DVR for incoming
and outgoing audio?

6) If the transverter option is not installed, the K3 can use
ANT2 as a de facto RX ANT IN, right?

TNX, Adam N1KO
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[Elecraft] K2 Frequency stability

2006-12-25 Thread adamkern
Hello again and happy holidays!

With regard to the K2 frequency stability...

Several good points were raised and I realized that I wasn't 
adequately specific before.  The drift I notice is primarily 
related to warmup and not during normal operation.  I will 
perform the aforementioned test to confirm whether the 
instability is primarily in the BFO or PLL oscillator.  
However, the biggest drift occurs after the rig warms up.  
Heavy CW operating with the KPA100 brings the temperature 
very high and this large increase in temp is necessary to 
make the rig drift in frequency any more.

Of course, the distinction between warmup and operating 
drift becomes academic if one turns on the rig from a cold 
start and start operating heavily right away. :)

More commonly, I find that I operate outdoors or somewhere 
where ambient temperature is cold, run CW at 100 watts and 
then drift somewhat shortly after the cold start.  Again, 
I suspect that this is due to warmup drift and not some 
large drift attributable to a malfunctioning temp-
compensated PLL.

On average, from 60 F to warmup the freq at which I zero 
beat WWV drifts down an extremely predictable 50 Hz.  From 
normal operating temp to high temp (e.g. 100W CW operation 
sufficient to kick the KPA100 fan to high) the WWV zero beat 
frequency will move another 20-30 Hz, for a grand total of 
80 Hz relative to a cold start.  There is never any 
unpredictable change in zero beat frequency beyond this.  
Once the rig reaches full operating temperature the drift is 
never greater than 10 Hz.

So it seems that the rig is operating within spec and I have 
nothing to worry about, save to calibrate things so that the 
radio zero beats WWV at operating temperature.  I will 
confirm this by running the test to differentiate between 
PLL and BFO drift.  Correct?

Happy holidays!

Adam, N1KO
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[Elecraft] K2 frequencyh stability

2006-12-24 Thread adamkern
Hello all,

I notice that on K2 #03547 rev B (with KPA100, KDSP2, KSB2, 
K160RX and thermistor installed at time of build) the master 
frequency drifts as a function of temperature.  From an 
ambient temp of 65F to max rig temp when the KPA100 fan 
kicks in the receiver may drift by 800 Hz.  The range is 
usually more narrow given the typical temp shift experienced.

My solution has been to calibrate C22 against WWV such that 
as the rig warms up, the master frequency set by C22 drifts 
towards zero-beat with WWV.

My question is this: how much drift is typical?

Adam, N1KO
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[Elecraft] K2 frequency drift

2006-12-24 Thread adamkern
Hi again,

As a few people pointed out, I misspoke in my earlier email.

When I calibrate C22 I immediately run CAL PLL and CAL FIL.  
True, the K2 does not directly reference C22 during normal 
operation.  My calibration of C22 and then CAL PLL and CAL 
FIL is all by-the-book.

That being said, I still do notice a temperature-dependent 
frequency drift during normal usage.  The drift is 
predictable, with the zero beat on the dial I get with 
reference to WWV drifting by as much as 70-80 Hz if the 
temperature difference between ambient and the max temp the 
rig hits with the KPA100 under heavy use is large.  The 
frequency at which I can zero-beat WWV does not change 
unpredictably.  The radio consistently zero-beats low (e.g. 
WWV zero-beats at 10.000.07) when cold.

Is this a really big deal?  On SSB, certainly not.  On CW I 
like to zero-beat dead-on with the narrow filters.  Perhaps 
I'm just being a perfectionist.

Adam, N1KO
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[Elecraft] K2 repair advice

2006-12-17 Thread adamkern
Hello all,

I have a question for the gurus regarding fixing my K2.  Back
in 2003 I built a K2 with KPA100, KDSP2, SSB, 160 mod and
external ATU and used it to operate mobile in South America
for a period of time.  I then returned to the U.S. to begin
med school and have been off the air since.  I'd like to get
back into radio now with my K2.

Shortly before I went QRT three years ago I noticed that the
front panel earphone jack broke.  It provides audio to
external headphones, but does not correspondingly cut audio
out from the internal speaker.  Very annoying.

I have only a short holiday vacation and then it's back to the
grind at work.  I don't have the time to teach myself how to
take apart the rig again, nor frankly would I trust myself to
do a good job removing a part soldered onto the board at
several points.  In the meantime I've simply unplugged P5 from
the control board.  I'm worried that the front audio jack will
completely break and then I'll be totally out of luck.

The question is: What is the best option for getting
assistance fixing my rig?  Should I send it to Elecraft
service?  Can I send it to Elecraft service?  Should I
subcontract out a rig builder?

I noticed that there are several hardware/firmware upgrades
that have come out that are also applicable for my rig.  It
would be great to install these at the same time.

Anyway, this is a plea for advice from someone who wants to
get back into radio, desperately loves his K2 (that he built
himself) and doesn't have the current ability to take the
whole thing apart and put it back together again.  Help!

Thanks!

Adam, N1KO
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