[Elecraft] K2 assembling problem - ELE on power up
Hi there, some months ago I ordered a K2 and started assembling. Thanks to not having a proper power supply and being a bit short on time I had a break of two months, recently though I got a power supply and resumed in assembling my K2. I also have the KSB2 option and thus installed it's additional parts to the front panel board as suggested on page 29 of the manual. I'm on page 43 now (Alignment and test Part 1) and when doing the first test with power switched on I have the famous ELE problem. I've found some info about this problem on this list (mainly here from Gary AB7MY: http://www.qsl.net/v/ve3mcf//elecraft_reflect/K2_ELE_Display_at_power_up.txt), though I couldn't get it to work yet. What I've tried so far: - Checking for mixed up component values, wrongly orientated diodes or IC's on control, front panel and RF board - everything ok - Resoldering every connection that is accessible on control, front panel and RF board. I have a bit of solder experience and I'm sure there is no missing or poor solder connection - Installed two new TPIC6B595 on the front panel board - Doing all the resistance checks on all the three boards - everything ok - checked for stuck pushbuttons or bent over IC pins which might not connect in its socket - no problem here After all this I resetted the K2 by pushing down the 4,5 and 6 buttons while switching on the K2, but the problem remains. It displays INFO 201 and you can hear the relays switching, but nothing happens after that. Turning power off and on again, the K2 displays ELE again. The K2 in this state is drawing about 100mA @13V. Unfortunately I have to oscilloscope, just a digital multimeter is available to do some tests. Maybe I should add the following info: When installing IC's I touched a grounded surface before handling the IC. In the meantime I have a ground strap, which is connected to my power supply which has a special jack for doing that. I've installed the two replacement TPIC6B595 using the ground strap, all other IC's are installed with the touching grounded surface-method. I'm a bit lost here now, as I ran out of if ideas of what could be wrong with my K2 here. Any ideas what I could try or where the problem might be? Thanks in advance for any helpful reply! Thomas -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-assembling-problem-ELE-on-power-up-tp5758455p5758455.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Yes, I'll probably gain my first experience as a ham on SSB mode, CW will (hopefully) follow. But we'll see, as there's no way back now - I just ordered my K2 kit! Thanks again for all the support I got on and off this mailing list! 73, Thomas -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5278188.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Ken, much thanks for your reply! Yes, from my life as SWL I remember there was a russian station broadcasting time signals (RWM, on 4,996 MHz, 9,996 MHz and 14,996 MHz, just in case someone else also needs it). What do you mean about wanting to learn about how radios work? I think I have some theoretical background on both blocks you describe (well, not really that much I'd say, but the general building blocks, LC circuits or antenna basics are not that new to me). The connection between theory and practice (or also the practical experience itself) is what I'm missing so far. OK, the K2 manual will say put R132 here and C93 there, I won't be able to even understand half of the K2 after building it (and probably it would be quite frustrating in case I'd try it), but I expect to get a few more basic understanding from it. The combination K3 + simple radio for the basics maybe would make more sense in the long run - but on the other hand I'm still a ham beginner, and maybe it's a better idea not to start with a top notch radio and instead make my first steps with the smaller K2 until I'm more sure of what direction of amateur radio I want to go. Thanks alot for the reading tips! I've even found a german translation of the Elmer 101 manual one on the website of the german Elecraft distributor, I'll definitely have a look into that one. 73, Thomas - Original Message - From: ml-node+5256477-438326115-578...@n2.nabble.com (Ken McGuire [via Elecraft]) Sent: 05.07.2010, 08:19:54 Subject: Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit... What do you mean about wanting to learn about how radios work? There are multiple levels of knowlege of this. First of all, there is the big building blocks - for example, what is an intermediate frequency. Also there is the small scale side as well - as in inductor X and Capacitor Y will form an LC circuit to do Z. In building the K1 and K2, I learned a lot about the first but not so much about the second. Yes, I put the pieces together and the scematic is there for me to digest if I want, but it gets so detailed that I want to ask why each part is there... To get the second type of knowlege, I am aware of two resources - I have not gone through the process with either one, but have heard good things about both. First is the Book _The Electronics of Radio_ which goes through building a NorCal 40a kit. The other one is the QRP-L Elmer 101 which goes through the Small Wonder Labs SW-40. If this is the type of detail knowlege you want, then you might want to look into these more. But if it is just the fuctional blocks information, I while the K3 is no-solder, I can't believe that there isn't quite a bit you can learn about what board plugs into what, etc. Since assembly is faster, you might miss it because it goes by so fast, but I can't believe it wouldn't be there. On the other hand, I don't know the K3. But if I were looking now instead of in 2001 when I got my Elecrafts, I would probably get the base K3 and either of the simpler radios I mentioned to get the real basics. On the other hand, I have enjoyed my K2 over the years and hardly would call it a mistake. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5257352.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Some of the replies really made me thinking, as the K3 really seems to give a great value for money. But in the end I'll probably come back to the kit building experience I prefer (for now). The K3 offers a lot of things, but maybe too much for a ham beginner like me. So for now I'll end up with a K2 I think, and once I'm a bit more experienced in a few years and would like to do some RTTY or PSK31, there's still the option to add a K3 to the shack. 73, Thomas lstavenhagen wrote: And finally: consider the K3. This was actually the route I took instead of decking out my K2. So I would also second this recommendation if your end goal is a fully featured rig that supports all the modes, all bands, DSP etc. I.e. the base 10 watt K3 comes stock with SSB/RTTY/PSK31, etc support, audio I/O, an RS-232 interface, 160 and 6M, DSP and other creature comforts that make life really nice for certain things. When you actually push the pencil across the piece of paper on it, the K3 actually ends up being the better option in that case. It also has other things you can't get in the K2 such as a high-stability reference osc., QRO internal ant. tuner (i.e. you don't have to ditch the internal tuner when you install the 100W module), and generally higher performance in the RX. However, the K3 doesn't offer the same kit building experience as the K2 because it's a modular, no-soldering kit. The K2 is a true box-of-parts to fully functional rig experience, which I found to be great fun when building mine. I was a first-time kit builder never having built a kit of any kind before, so I had to go slow and prepare carefully by buying all the correct tools etc. I even wound my own toroids, which I still recommend even tho it's tedious at times. You actually learn some things in that process that you probably wouldn't otherwise... So, IMO, I say do both! I'm a lot more broke now than I would have been if I'd only done one of them, of course, but then again I'll never have to buy another rig again if I don't want to. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5257404.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Peter, first thanks for your reply, I think it clears up some of the question marks in my head! In a project like the K2 there's always a big chance of me mixing something up, but I have a bit of soldering experience and also own a proper soldering station, so that assembling in the end should not become a problem (I hope!). Thanks for the hints on how to calibrate the K2! After reading all the helpful replies I think I'm (for the moment) going for a K2 without the 100W option, but will prepare to add it (and the filter add-ons) at a later moment. The K3 looks impressive, and when I compare the prices there's really not much of a difference when you add all options to the K2 which are included in the K3 right away. Though I think building a K2 will give me some more insight into how transmitters and receivers work - will think about it once again, but for the moment this makes a big advantage for the K2. Thomas Peter Wollan-2 wrote: To calibrate, you need to receive a known frequency -- in the US, the broadcast time station WWV is sufficient. And to set the filters, it is very helpful to have a computer running one of the audio frequency spectrum displays. (I use the display in the CocoaModem program for Macs). To connect to the computer, all you need is an audio cable with stereo plugs on each end, going from headphone jack on the K2 to audio input on the computer. ... It works well to start with a stripped-down K2 and add modules over several years. In fact, you assemble in stages, and get each stage working before moving on the the next. However, some modules require connectors in places that are easy to put in on original assembly but significant effort later. If you think you might maybe someday want a particular add-on, read the manual to find out what connectors it needs and consider buying and installing the connectors during your initial assembly. Ask here on the list about any specifics. And finally: consider the K3. The K2 was designed as the ideal Field Day radio, and I think it is. However, the 100-watt version is less elegant than the 10-watt (my opinion only, of course), and the K3 has several advantages: it's more modern technology, it's more capable, and it isn't much more expensive for comparable features. The CW-only K2 is an incredible value, but if you add SSB, KAT2, KIO2, and 6 meters the K3 is cheaper (? is that true? pretty close, anyway.) -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5252892.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Jim, thanks for clearing up some of my questions, using a battery is indeed an interesting idea. Didn't think about it yet, but as I probably own the smallest shack in HAM history at the moment I will definitely think about that. Thanks for the idea with putting the KPA100 in a separate EC2 with the KAT100. I'll probably go for the K2 10W version for some months until I know which configuration for the 100W PA / ATU options (internal / external) I prefer. Apart from that I have the KSB2 SSB option on my list, plus maybe (or later) the KNB2 noise blanker and the KIO2 interface module. The K160RX 160-meter add on unfortunately won't make much sense, as there's not much space for an antenna. Thomas Jim Wiley-2 wrote: You will need some sort of DC power source. Some operators use a 12-volt battery and a separate charger. If you are into green things, a 7 amp-hour gel cell and a solar charger (with charge regulator) will be adequate for the average operator. Others use a 20-ampere hour (or so) lead-acid battery (either wet or gel type) and a suitable automatic charger. Some operators use a regulated DC power supply of some type. The K2 will draw perhaps 5 amperes max. I would use a minimum of a 10 ampere supply, but a supply with a 15 0r 20 ampere rating will allows your to add other things to your station at a later date. Your choice The KAT100 tuner is appropriate for the KPA100 amplifier option. Many builders, including myself, opt for having the amplifier in a separate EC2 cabinet, together with the KAT100. This allows the basic low-power K2 to be used with it's internal KAT2 tuner for portable use, which can then be easily connected to the K2 for base station use. Other options I have found useful for the K2, in my personal choice of order of usefulness: The KSB2 SSB module, the KNB2 noise blanker, the KBAT2 internal battery, the KIO2 interface module, the K160RX 160-meter add on, and either the KDSP2 or KAF2 audio filter. I personally favor the KDSP2, but it is considerably more expensive. I have not installed the K60XV option (waiting for the 60 meter band to become more like the rest of the other bands in what can be done there). -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5252893.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Alan, Don, Alan D. Wilcox wrote: You might want to purchase the pre-wound toroids from Mike Morohovich. His flyer is included in the K2 package, but if you order early, you'll have them when your K2 arrives. Aside from being tedious to wind, many builders come to grief because they've left enamel on the leads and didn't get a good solder connection. Such a problem can be difficult to spot. Thanks for the email address, might be helpful as I have never wound toroids before. I already have a bit of this enamelled copper wire and a old toroid which I will first use to train winding and soldering. Don Cunningham wrote: I see a couple of very informative messages in reply to your questions, so I won't repeat but one has really not been answered simply. The APP connector is short for Anderson Power Pole. Google that and you will get an education on a connector set that is becoming a defacto standard. Thanks, good to know - I must admit I've never seen those connectors before! Don Cunningham wrote: The main thing, Thomas, is to ENJOY your trip as a radio amateur. I have loved my 38 years in amateur radio and have many friends I would never have made without it. It has become a valued part of life for me. Well, my first contact with the HAM world on this list was quite promising. Can't await going on air! Thomas -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5252894.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...
Hi, being a SWL for more or less about 20 years I just completed my HAM license in germany. So far it's just the beginners license which limits the frequency bands I'm allowed to use, but as I don't have a TRX yet I thought building a K2 will a) give me quite a good transceiver I don't have to replace after six months and b) provide me with some valuable experience on my way to go for the full license. So far I have nothing but my license though. No transceiver, no antenna, no SWR meter, no power supply, no dummy load, no... So please forgive me in case I ask something obvious, I'm really a bit confused with all those things which are new to me! So here my questions: # ok, after reading several stuff on elecraft.com this more or less is a clear one, but to make sure I'd lust like to repeat it - apart from maybe a multimeter, there is no additional measurement equipment needed to build up and adjust the K2 (e.g. no noise generator, spectrum analyzer needed). Am I correct? # Power connector...how do I connect the K2 to the 230V we are using in germany? I suppose I need an external power supply 10..15V, correct? But which connector? Reading the forums I've seen those 2.1mm and 2.5mm diameter connectors ( http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/dcconnectors/dcpp1.jpg ) mentioned, in the shop Elecraft is selling a cable with APP connector. So what would I need? # The KAT100 antenna tuner includes a SWR meter but requires a KPA100 or KIO2 installed. As I'm not yet sure if I go for the 100 watt option, does the KAT2 (20 watt internal ATU) also include a SWR meter? Well, that's all for now, thanks in advance for any helpful reply! thomas -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/A-few-questions-before-ordering-the-K2-kit-tp5251717p5251717.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
