[Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Mike Rodgers
None of those 6m birdies here in Texas   

73
Mike R

Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2011 13:45:11 -0400
From: John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Zipper Noise and Birdies on 6M -- FIXED!
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4e11fc27.7090...@crocker.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Allen...

I have these same birdies (at least I suppose they're the same) and 
I suspect that all K3 have them. The most annoying ones are where the CW 
action usually occurs (50.09430, 20 dB above noise floor) and a number 
of minor ones around 50.098 (3-5 dB above the noise floor), as well as 
several major ones up where the SSB action occurs: 50.21050, 50.24055, 
etc. which are all 20+ dB above the noise floor. These are not 
external blips (not computer, not router, etc.) as they are present 
when nothing else is on, and they are present when the antenna is 
disconnected.

I treat them by ignoring them. They are sharp, stable, and 
unmodulated. My ear can differentiate between them and real signals 
without any problem. They are features for calibration... ;) Every 
modern rig I have ever owned has had similar warts.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

73
Mike R


Sent from my spy ring
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Robert Redmon
I also have a pretty strong (-120dbm) and annoying 6 meter birdie. It is 
when I am in cw mode and moves when I tune, intersecting with the 
passband at 50096 or so . It moves with VFO tuning, but at a much higher 
rate (viewing on the P3). When I have tuned 1 khz higher, it has moved 
almost seven khz higher. It also seems to drift a bit...unlike the 
stationary (internal) birdies that are rather weak and stable. I have 
cleaned up my cabling and tried to make sure all the boards and case 
bits were bonded properly, but those efforts have had no effect. I have 
noticed a similar birdie on 20 meters (ssb) around 14186 or so, but it 
moves opposite the direction of tuning. My efforts seem to have had no 
effect on them (including Sig Rmv). I have been told I will just have to 
live with them, and I can, but it is frustrating nonetheless.

Bob K5SM

On 7/6/2011 8:31 AM, Mike Rodgers wrote:
 None of those 6m birdies here in Texas

 73
 Mike R

 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2011 13:45:11 -0400
 From: John Ragletpcj1...@crocker.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Zipper Noise and Birdies on 6M -- FIXED!
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:4e11fc27.7090...@crocker.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Allen...

  I have these same birdies (at least I suppose they're the same) and
 I suspect that all K3 have them. The most annoying ones are where the CW
 action usually occurs (50.09430, 20 dB above noise floor) and a number
 of minor ones around 50.098 (3-5 dB above the noise floor), as well as
 several major ones up where the SSB action occurs: 50.21050, 50.24055,
 etc. which are all 20+ dB above the noise floor. These are not
 external blips (not computer, not router, etc.) as they are present
 when nothing else is on, and they are present when the antenna is
 disconnected.

  I treat them by ignoring them. They are sharp, stable, and
 unmodulated. My ear can differentiate between them and real signals
 without any problem. They are features for calibration... ;) Every
 modern rig I have ever owned has had similar warts.

 John Ragle -- W1ZI

 73
 Mike R


 Sent from my spy ring
 __
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Mike Rodgers
I have a birdie at 50.09465 cw  normal not rev on a cold k3 and the one at 
14.186. The latter being weaker and neither adding to the s meter. My shack has 
no computers but a wal wart or two so I can confirm those two. 
Auto notch has no effect. 

I believe as Tom mentioned there is a method to remove them or that specific 
frequency they are on ( not sure which) but I havnt been bothered enough by 
them yet. 

73
Mike R

Sent from my spy ring

On Jul 6, 2011, at 12:44 PM, Robert Redmon k5sm@gmail.com wrote:

 I also have a pretty strong (-120dbm) and annoying 6 meter birdie. It is when 
 I am in cw mode and moves when I tune, intersecting with the passband at 
 50096 or so . It moves with VFO tuning, but at a much higher rate (viewing on 
 the P3). When I have tuned 1 khz higher, it has moved almost seven khz 
 higher. It also seems to drift a bit...unlike the stationary (internal) 
 birdies that are rather weak and stable. I have cleaned up my cabling and 
 tried to make sure all the boards and case bits were bonded properly, but 
 those efforts have had no effect. I have noticed a similar birdie on 20 
 meters (ssb) around 14186 or so, but it moves opposite the direction of 
 tuning. My efforts seem to have had no effect on them (including Sig Rmv). I 
 have been told I will just have to live with them, and I can, but it is 
 frustrating nonetheless.
 
 Bob K5SM
 
 On 7/6/2011 8:31 AM, Mike Rodgers wrote:
 None of those 6m birdies here in Texas
 
 73
 Mike R
 
 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2011 13:45:11 -0400
 From: John Ragletpcj1...@crocker.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Zipper Noise and Birdies on 6M -- FIXED!
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:4e11fc27.7090...@crocker.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 Allen...
 
 I have these same birdies (at least I suppose they're the same) and
 I suspect that all K3 have them. The most annoying ones are where the CW
 action usually occurs (50.09430, 20 dB above noise floor) and a number
 of minor ones around 50.098 (3-5 dB above the noise floor), as well as
 several major ones up where the SSB action occurs: 50.21050, 50.24055,
 etc. which are all 20+ dB above the noise floor. These are not
 external blips (not computer, not router, etc.) as they are present
 when nothing else is on, and they are present when the antenna is
 disconnected.
 
 I treat them by ignoring them. They are sharp, stable, and
 unmodulated. My ear can differentiate between them and real signals
 without any problem. They are features for calibration... ;) Every
 modern rig I have ever owned has had similar warts.
 
 John Ragle -- W1ZI
 
 73
 Mike R
 
 
 Sent from my spy ring
 __
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[Elecraft] K3 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Johnny Siu
I got one at 28.13471Mhz and reduced it by moving the TMP cable between J84 and 
J85 of KRX3.  Moving the TMP cables does have effect on the birdies.
 
Just try to resit and change the positions of the TMP cables, you will get some 
improvements.

TNX  73,


Johnny VR2XMC

從︰ Mike Rodgers mikerodgerske5...@yahoo.com
收件人︰ Robert Redmon k5sm@gmail.com
副本(CC)︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2011年07月7日 (週四) 6:04 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

I have a birdie at 50.09465 cw  normal not rev on a cold k3 and the one at 
14.186. The latter being weaker and neither adding to the s meter. My shack has 
no computers but a wal wart or two so I can confirm those two. 
Auto notch has no effect. 

I believe as Tom mentioned there is a method to remove them or that specific 
frequency they are on ( not sure which) but I havnt been bothered enough by 
them yet. 

73
Mike R

Sent from my spy ring

On Jul 6, 2011, at 12:44 PM, Robert Redmon k5sm@gmail.com wrote:

 I also have a pretty strong (-120dbm) and annoying 6 meter birdie. It is when 
 I am in cw mode and moves when I tune, intersecting with the passband at 
 50096 or so . It moves with VFO tuning, but at a much higher rate (viewing on 
 the P3). When I have tuned 1 khz higher, it has moved almost seven khz 
 higher. It also seems to drift a bit...unlike the stationary (internal) 
 birdies that are rather weak and stable. I have cleaned up my cabling and 
 tried to make sure all the boards and case bits were bonded properly, but 
 those efforts have had no effect. I have noticed a similar birdie on 20 
 meters (ssb) around 14186 or so, but it moves opposite the direction of 
 tuning. My efforts seem to have had no effect on them (including Sig Rmv). I 
 have been told I will just have to live with them, and I can, but it is 
 frustrating nonetheless.
 
 Bob K5SM
 
 On 7/6/2011 8:31 AM, Mike Rodgers wrote:
 None of those 6m birdies here in Texas
 
 73
 Mike R
 
 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2011 13:45:11 -0400
 From: John Ragletpcj1...@crocker.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Zipper Noise and Birdies on 6M -- FIXED!
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:4e11fc27.7090...@crocker.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 Allen...
 
    I have these same birdies (at least I suppose they're the same) and
 I suspect that all K3 have them. The most annoying ones are where the CW
 action usually occurs (50.09430, 20 dB above noise floor) and a number
 of minor ones around 50.098 (3-5 dB above the noise floor), as well as
 several major ones up where the SSB action occurs: 50.21050, 50.24055,
 etc. which are all 20+ dB above the noise floor. These are not
 external blips (not computer, not router, etc.) as they are present
 when nothing else is on, and they are present when the antenna is
 disconnected.
 
    I treat them by ignoring them. They are sharp, stable, and
 unmodulated. My ear can differentiate between them and real signals
 without any problem. They are features for calibration... ;) Every
 modern rig I have ever owned has had similar warts.
 
 John Ragle -- W1ZI
 
 73
 Mike R
 
 
 Sent from my spy ring
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
  It may just be my more or less casual observation, but ---

Many seem to becoming loose on what is defined as a birdie.
Proper use of the term is to refer to a fast tuning signal that is 
produced by the receiver's mixing scheme and the harmonics thereof.  
That is a true birdie.

Other annoying signals can be heard which originate from something other 
than the receiver itself.  Those signals are real signals (whether 
desired or not) that are picked up by the antenna.

For true receiver birdies, re-orienting the TMP cables and/or the use of 
the Signal Removal Tool in the K3 can be effective, but for signals that 
originate outside the K3, the only real cure is to suppress them at the 
source.

Yes, I understand that identifying the true source can be a burdensome 
chore, but differentating between internal receiver birdies and 
external signal sources is a good starting point.  Terminate the K3 
antenna input with a well shielded dummy load (with a very short length 
of coax), and if the birdie is still present, it is a true receiver 
birdie, but if it is no longer present, it is a real signal and the 
source must be found to eliminate it with ferrites or other suppression 
devices.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2011 6:04 PM, Mike Rodgers wrote:
 I have a birdie at 50.09465 cw  normal not rev on a cold k3 and the one at 
 14.186. The latter being weaker and neither adding to the s meter. My shack 
 has no computers but a wal wart or two so I can confirm those two.
 Auto notch has no effect.

 I believe as Tom mentioned there is a method to remove them or that specific 
 frequency they are on ( not sure which) but I havnt been bothered enough by 
 them yet.

 73
 Mike R

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[Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Don,
 
I would even play a more safe game to distinguish whether it is a true birdie.  
How about using a 12v battery instead of a power supply unit during the test?

TNX  73,


Johnny VR2XMC

從︰ Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2011年07月7日 (週四) 8:35 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m  birdies

  It may just be my more or less casual observation, but ---

Many seem to becoming loose on what is defined as a birdie.
Proper use of the term is to refer to a fast tuning signal that is 
produced by the receiver's mixing scheme and the harmonics thereof.  
That is a true birdie.

Other annoying signals can be heard which originate from something other 
than the receiver itself.  Those signals are real signals (whether 
desired or not) that are picked up by the antenna.

For true receiver birdies, re-orienting the TMP cables and/or the use of 
the Signal Removal Tool in the K3 can be effective, but for signals that 
originate outside the K3, the only real cure is to suppress them at the 
source.

Yes, I understand that identifying the true source can be a burdensome 
chore, but differentating between internal receiver birdies and 
external signal sources is a good starting point.  Terminate the K3 
antenna input with a well shielded dummy load (with a very short length 
of coax), and if the birdie is still present, it is a true receiver 
birdie, but if it is no longer present, it is a real signal and the 
source must be found to eliminate it with ferrites or other suppression 
devices.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2011 6:04 PM, Mike Rodgers wrote:
 I have a birdie at 50.09465 cw  normal not rev on a cold k3 and the one at 
 14.186. The latter being weaker and neither adding to the s meter. My shack 
 has no computers but a wal wart or two so I can confirm those two.
 Auto notch has no effect.

 I believe as Tom mentioned there is a method to remove them or that specific 
 frequency they are on ( not sure which) but I havnt been bothered enough by 
 them yet.

 73
 Mike R

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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Johnny,

Yes, that is an excellent suggestion, especially if the K3 power supply 
is a switcher.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2011 9:05 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
 Hello Don,
   
 I would even play a more safe game to distinguish whether it is a true 
 birdie.  How about using a 12v battery instead of a power supply unit during 
 the test?

 TNX  73,

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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] 6m birdies

2011-07-06 Thread Eugene Balinski
All,

   Be sure that the antenna has been disconnected and a
good dummy load is connected in its place to the antenna
port via a very short piece of known-good coax.  Better to
have a 50 ohm termination connected directly to the antenna
port.

73
Gene K1NR

K2 6K

On Wed, 06 Jul 2011 21:14:02 -0400
 Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
   Johnny,
 
 Yes, that is an excellent suggestion, especially if the
 K3 power supply 
 is a switcher.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/6/2011 9:05 PM, Johnny Siu wrote:
  Hello Don,

  I would even play a more safe game to distinguish
 whether it is a true birdie.  How about using a 12v
 battery instead of a power supply unit during the test?
 
  TNX  73,
 

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