Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-21 Thread Jim Miller
i believe the originator had said that he has a centerfed dipole with a 
balanced feedline.

i think the first thing the lead wire should come to is a suitable matching 
device. i use an elecraft t1 which works well for my qrp activities. the 
coaxial input to my t1 has 10 inches of suitable ferrites on it to act as a 
common mode rf choke to keep rf off the exterior of the coax regardless of 
it's length.

that ensures that whether the feedline is perfectly balanced or not all of 
the rf is properly contained inside the coax. the tuner itself is likely a 
bit hot but it is of no consequence.

my next oft delayed project is to build up a simple insertion/extraction 
pair for a bit of dc onto the coax to remotely trigger the t1 tuning cycle.

73

jim ab3cv 

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RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-20 Thread Carl Clawson

>
>
> Grounds can serve three purposes: lightning protection, power line
> safety, or RF ground.  These are three very different things, requiring
> very different ground methods.
>
> ...
>
> Al N1AL
>
>

True.

But should we go a step further and avoid even using the phrase RF ground?
Long ago I asked an old Zen master about the best way to RF ground my
station. His answer was "What do you mean by ground?" This was the best
possible answer because it made me think about the physics that's going on:
You don't want to seek some elusive "ground" potential. What you want is to
keep unbalanced feedline current out of your shack or at least as far from
your equipment as possible.

73, Carl WS7L
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RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-20 Thread Alan Bloom
Grounds can serve three purposes: lightning protection, power line
safety, or RF ground.  These are three very different things, requiring
very different ground methods.

For an RF ground, forget about a wire to earth ground.  It will almost
always be too long to present a low impedance at RF.  Even if you can
tune out the reactance by adjusting the length to a multiple of 1/2
wavelength or by using a tuner, it will still have RF current flowing in
it and so will still radiate RF.

A better method is to use a counterpoise wire.  This is like a single
radial, 1/4 wavelength long, connected to the chassis of the antenna
tuner.  One counterpoise is needed for each band of interest.

Al N1AL




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RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-20 Thread Charles Harpole

I ran a TR-3 with no gnd at all for 4 yrs from higher floor with no problems.  
The AC had a gnd pin.
 
I say, if u have no problems with no gnd, forget it.  
 
Of course, my Thailand 230VAC is supplied with no separate 3rd wire gnd  
The guy who installed my water pump here ran the gnd wire from it to a plastic 
water pipe.  The guy who installed my outside air cond condenser ran the gnd 
wire to a screw in the concrete wall.  Then my dog chewed the wires in two.  
Buzz, zap.Charles Harpole   [EMAIL PROTECTED] > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF 
ground from 2nd floor?> Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 20:44:34 -0800> > -Original 
Message-> > > Here is a solution from a very old QST,> > > > It's not from 
QST.> > > > and all I can say is it works> > > > > > for me. My shack is on the 
2nd floor and I run several rigs w/ amps > > > . I> > > was having RF 
everywhere until I tried this:> > > - Run coax ( RG-8 or similar) from rig to a 
real good ground . Put a > > > .01 cap across the shield and center conductor 
at both ends. Cap needs > > > to be 2KV or better. You will be using the center 
conductor as your > > > connection to rig and the ground rod.You should also 
use an ATU as > > > mentioned in an earlier reply.> > If it is not from QST, do 
you know where it is from? Do you know where (or> how) I can get a reprint of 
it? My shack is on the second floor, too.> > And I believe that The Wireman 
used to sell a kit containing the capacitors!> > Dan Allen> KB4ZVM> K2 S/N 
1757> > -> > Those capacitors look like 
"shorts" at RF. So the center conductor is tied> to the shield at RF, but not 
at D-C. Direct current isn't the problem. Tying> the shield to the center makes 
the impedance of the cable slightly less> because it's slightly bigger to the 
RF. > > Even so, at RF it's still just a wire from the second story to ground. 
> > If you force a wire to either a low impedance (grounded) or high impedance> 
(insulated) at one end, it will show at the opposite end the opposite> 
impedance if it's 1/4 wavelength long or an odd multiple of 1/4 wavelength> 
long, and it'll show at the opposite end the *same* impedance if it's 1/2> wave 
long or a multiple of 1/2 wavelength long. Everything in between will> be 
something "in between". > > Even a marginal RF ground will cure problems caused 
by no RF ground in some> situations. Even a hunk of coax. > > The things you 
can do to provide a low(er) impedance ground than a wire is> to make the wire 
larger, or parallel a lot of wires to ground, all> separated, such as running a 
large wide sheet of metal from the rig to the> ground. If you're on the second 
floor, that's seldom practical for those who> live in the same building with 
our "shacks" ;-) My shack is, fortunately, on> the ground floor about 3 feet 
from where the large metal conduit for the> underground utilities emerges from 
the earth. It's also where all the other> services - telephone, cable, etc. - 
are grounded along with the mains> ground. And my RF ground goes there. Since 
it's only a few feet away, I use> a 2-foot wide strip of copper attached to the 
wall from the rig to a point> on the wall opposite the mains conduit. Then a 
pair of ground wires makes> the run through the wall to the mains conduit. Each 
wire is about 12 inches> long. Two in parallel reduce the impedance of one. To 
RF, they look like on> FAT conductor. > > I didn't suggest that because, from 
the 2nd floor, it'd take very large> piece of metal to show low enough 
impedance.> > But all is not lost. You can operate free from RF when you aren't 
close to> ground. It's been done by everything from rigs in Zeppelins to Hams 
stuck in> the attic! > > The "trick" is to keep the impedance of all RF antenna 
circuits at the rig> low. > > A 50 ohm dummy load does that, but it's a lousy 
radiator. But it> demonstrates the concept: keep the impedance low.> > Feeding 
an antenna at a current loop (low-impedance) point will do that.> That's why 
Hams seldom have trouble with center-fed dipoles. The impedance> at the center 
of a dipole is low - typically not far from 50 ohms. Bringing> the feed point 
of the dipole directly to the rig or through a length of coax> that has a low 
SWR keeps the impedance at the rig low. The impedance is low> because each half 
of a dipole is 1/4 wavelength long. The far ends are> insulated, forcing their 
impedance high. So the ends at the rig are low> 

RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
-Original Message-
> > Here is a solution from a very old QST,
> 
> It's not from QST.
> 
>  and all I can say is it works
> > 
> > for me. My shack is on the 2nd floor and I run several rigs w/ amps 
> > . I
> > was having RF everywhere until I tried this:
> > - Run coax ( RG-8 or similar) from rig to a  real  good ground . Put a 
> > .01 cap across the shield and center conductor at both ends. Cap needs 
> > to be 2KV or better. You will be using the center conductor as your 
> > connection to rig and the ground rod.You should also use an ATU as 
> > mentioned in an earlier reply.

If it is not from QST, do you know where it is from?  Do you know where (or
how) I can get a reprint of it?  My shack is on the second floor, too.

And I believe that The Wireman used to sell a kit containing the capacitors!

Dan Allen
KB4ZVM
K2 S/N 1757

-

Those capacitors look like "shorts" at RF. So the center conductor is tied
to the shield at RF, but not at D-C. Direct current isn't the problem. Tying
the shield to the center makes the impedance of the cable slightly less
because it's slightly bigger to the RF. 

Even so, at RF it's still just a wire from the second story to ground. 

If you force a wire to either a low impedance (grounded) or high impedance
(insulated) at one end, it will show at the opposite end the opposite
impedance if it's 1/4 wavelength long or an odd multiple of 1/4 wavelength
long, and it'll show at the opposite end the *same* impedance if it's 1/2
wave long or a multiple of 1/2 wavelength long. Everything in between will
be something "in between". 

Even a marginal RF ground will cure problems caused by no RF ground in some
situations. Even a hunk of coax. 

The things you can do to provide a low(er) impedance ground than a wire is
to make the wire larger, or parallel a lot of wires to ground, all
separated, such as running a large wide sheet of metal from the rig to the
ground. If you're on the second floor, that's seldom practical for those who
live in the same building with our "shacks" ;-) My shack is, fortunately, on
the ground floor about 3 feet from where the large metal conduit for the
underground utilities emerges from the earth. It's also where all the other
services - telephone, cable, etc. - are grounded along with the mains
ground. And my RF ground goes there. Since it's only a few feet away, I use
a 2-foot wide strip of copper attached to the wall from the rig to a point
on the wall opposite the mains conduit. Then a pair of ground wires makes
the run through the wall to the mains conduit. Each wire is about 12 inches
long. Two in parallel reduce the impedance of one. To RF, they look like on
FAT conductor. 

I didn't suggest that because, from the 2nd floor, it'd take very large
piece of metal to show low enough impedance.

But all is not lost. You can operate free from RF when you aren't close to
ground. It's been done by everything from rigs in Zeppelins to Hams stuck in
the attic! 

The "trick" is to keep the impedance of all RF antenna circuits at the rig
low. 

A 50 ohm dummy load does that, but it's a lousy radiator. But it
demonstrates the concept: keep the impedance low.

Feeding an antenna at a current loop (low-impedance) point will do that.
That's why Hams seldom have trouble with center-fed dipoles. The impedance
at the center of a dipole is low - typically not far from 50 ohms. Bringing
the feed point of the dipole directly to the rig or through a length of coax
that has a low SWR keeps the impedance at the rig low. The impedance is low
because each half of a dipole is 1/4 wavelength long. The far ends are
insulated, forcing their impedance high. So the ends at the rig are low
impedance - typically 20 to 30 ohms. Two of them makes a 50 ohm load for the
rig. 

The famous "Zeppelin" antennas did the same for a rig floating high in the
sky held aloft by a bag of hydrogen. An open wire feed line, exactly 1/4
wavelength long, was connected to the rig. At the far end one side of the
feeder was connected to nothing at all: it was well insulated. The other
side of the feeder was connected to a 1/2 wavelength hunk of wire floating
out behind the ship in the air stream. The 1/2 wavelength long wire showed a
high impedance to the feeder at its end. The feed line, being 1/4 wave long
matched that high impedance while showing a low impedance at the rig. The
other side of the feed line, being insulated at the far end, also showed a
low impedance at the rig in the airship. Low impedance at the rig meant no
RF to cause sparks and burns which meant the airship didn't catch fire. 

If your not using a "Zepp"eline antenna you can do the same thing. Just hook
a 1/4 wave long piece of wire to the chassis of your rig. Yes, that means
you need one for each frequency you operate on. That's the bad news. The
good news is that it's generally adequate to use only one for each Amateur
band. As I mentioned above, you don't need a perfect ground. 

The "prob

Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-19 Thread dlajr


 
> > Here is a solution from a very old QST,
> 
> It's not from QST.
> 
>  and all I can say is it works 
> > 
> > for me. My shack is on the 2nd floor and I run several rigs w/ amps . I 
> > was having RF everywhere until I tried this:
> > - Run coax ( RG-8 or similar) from rig to a  real  good ground . Put a 
> > .01 cap across the shield and center conductor at both ends. Cap needs 
> > to be 2KV or better. You will be using the center conductor as your 
> > connection to rig and the ground rod.You should also use an ATU as 
> > mentioned in an earlier reply.

If it is not from QST, do you know where it is from?  Do you know where (or 
how) I can get a reprint of it?  My shack is on the second floor, too.

And I believe that The Wireman used to sell a kit containing the capacitors!

Dan Allen
KB4ZVM
K2 S/N 1757


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Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-19 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 2/19/08 8:50:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Here is a solution from a very old QST,

It's not from QST.

 and all I can say is it works 
> 
> for me. My shack is on the 2nd floor and I run several rigs w/ amps . I 
> was having RF everywhere until I tried this:
> - Run coax ( RG-8 or similar) from rig to a  real  good ground . Put a 
> .01 cap across the shield and center conductor at both ends. Cap needs 
> to be 2KV or better. You will be using the center conductor as your 
> connection to rig and the ground rod.You should also use an ATU as 
> mentioned in an earlier reply.

Have you tried just using the coax as a ground conductor, without the 
capacitors, and the center conductor tied to the shield?

73 de Jim, N2EY








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Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-19 Thread Dale LeStourgeon

DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

HI all:

I am re-doing all my 20 year old connections here in the shack, which
is on the 2nd floor of my house.

Can anyone point me to a resource for the "best way" to ensure a
proper RF ground from the 2nd floor?  I have lots of holes in the
walls going outside (rotor cables, control lines, many coaxes, etc),
so going through the wall is not an issue.  If fact, maybe I can use
the shield of a coax to help with an earth ground?  I"m not looking
for "resonant" inside radialsI want a genuine RF ground.

Looking forward to your comments.

Since I suspect this may a topic of wider interest, I'll ask you post
your comments here (or you can always post to me directly if you
disagree with "filling up the reflector").

Thanks so much!

de Doug KR2Q
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Here is a solution from a very old QST, and all I can say is it works 
for me. My shack is on the 2nd floor and I run several rigs w/ amps . I 
was having RF everywhere until I tried this:
- Run coax ( RG-8 or similar) from rig to a  real  good ground . Put a 
.01 cap across the shield and center conductor at both ends. Cap needs 
to be 2KV or better. You will be using the center conductor as your 
connection to rig and the ground rod.You should also use an ATU as 
mentioned in an earlier reply.

73
Dale K5AJZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-19 Thread drewko1
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:44:55 -0800, Ron AC7AC wrote:

>
>Another approach for an RF ground is to use your connection to the ground
>rod, but tune out the reactance. MFJ made a small "tuner" for just that
>purpose: a coil and capacitor in series that one adjusted as needed to
>produce maximum ground current at the rig. That can be very effective, but
>it is frequency-sensitive: it requires readjustment for every band. And,
>because the circuit involves a capacitor in series with the coil, it is not
>a d-c ground if that's what you are looking for. But it can produce a good
>RF ground. 
>
>Ron AC7AC

An automatic ground tuner might be nice-- a GTU, i guess you would
call it.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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RE: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The problem you face is getting a non-reactive connection from the rig to
the ground. 

Any conductor connected to the earth at the ground level will be grounded at
that point and will be "above RF ground" at the other (rig) end. If you
happened to have a 1/4 wavelength wire between your rig and  the ground,
you'll have the highest possible RF voltage on your rig! Anything other than
1/4 wave or an odd multiple thereof, will show more or less RF voltage. It
won't be a "good RF ground". A 1/2 wave wire between your rig and a ground
rod will show a good RF ground at the rig end: duplicating the impedance at
the ground rod, but only at the frequency where it's a half wave or a
multiple of 1/2 wave.  

Usually the best way to "ground" a rig for RF that isn't near real ground
(less than, say .05 wavelengths at the highest frequencies you use or, on 10
meters, 0.8 feet maximum between the rig and the ground pipe, or 7 feet on
80 meters) its to use a 1/4 wave wire attached to the rig whose far end is
well insulated from ground. With the far end insulated, it will be forced to
be at a voltage loop or high impedance point. That puts the other end, at
the rig, at a current loop or low impedance point. You can still use a wire
to your ground rod in parallel with that if you like although most
electrical codes frown on having a ground separate from the mains utility
ground. 

Another approach for an RF ground is to use your connection to the ground
rod, but tune out the reactance. MFJ made a small "tuner" for just that
purpose: a coil and capacitor in series that one adjusted as needed to
produce maximum ground current at the rig. That can be very effective, but
it is frequency-sensitive: it requires readjustment for every band. And,
because the circuit involves a capacitor in series with the coil, it is not
a d-c ground if that's what you are looking for. But it can produce a good
RF ground. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?


HI all:

I am re-doing all my 20 year old connections here in the shack, which is on
the 2nd floor of my house.

Can anyone point me to a resource for the "best way" to ensure a proper RF
ground from the 2nd floor?  I have lots of holes in the walls going outside
(rotor cables, control lines, many coaxes, etc), so going through the wall
is not an issue.  If fact, maybe I can use the shield of a coax to help with
an earth ground?  I"m not looking for "resonant" inside radialsI want a
genuine RF ground.

Looking forward to your comments.

Since I suspect this may a topic of wider interest, I'll ask you post your
comments here (or you can always post to me directly if you disagree with
"filling up the reflector").

Thanks so much!

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-18 Thread Ken Kopp

I'm not on a 2nd floor, but I use 2" wide copper strap.

It comes from a sheet metal shop, which cuts it with a
sheer from the side of a 4' x 8' sheet. 


The strap is run along the back of my desk with brass
1/4 x 20 bolts soldered at 12" intervals.  I use brass
wing-nuts on the bolts.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  or
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor?

2008-02-18 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
HI all:

I am re-doing all my 20 year old connections here in the shack, which
is on the 2nd floor of my house.

Can anyone point me to a resource for the "best way" to ensure a
proper RF ground from the 2nd floor?  I have lots of holes in the
walls going outside (rotor cables, control lines, many coaxes, etc),
so going through the wall is not an issue.  If fact, maybe I can use
the shield of a coax to help with an earth ground?  I"m not looking
for "resonant" inside radialsI want a genuine RF ground.

Looking forward to your comments.

Since I suspect this may a topic of wider interest, I'll ask you post
your comments here (or you can always post to me directly if you
disagree with "filling up the reflector").

Thanks so much!

de Doug KR2Q
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