[Elecraft] Elecraft antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread Tom Boucher
Another warning! 

A few years ago I used a catapult and a drilled golf ball with some braided 
nylon line over an oak tree. When it became stuck in a branch, I wound the line 
round a piece of wood and gave it my full weight to release it. The end result? 
I literally shot myself in the foot, breaking several small bones and was on 
crutches for 4 weeks. The braided line probably had a breaking strain of at 
least 300lb so I had devised a pretty effective self-destruction machine. I'm 
just glad it didn't hit me a few feet higher!

The funniest part was trying to explain to the guy in the Accident  Emergency 
Department how I broke my foot with a golf ball and then listening to his 
sniggers as he told the story to his colleagues.

These days I use a lead fishing weight with some fluorescent mono-filament 
fishing line. I can get it to 60 feet plus, but if it gets stuck, I pull back 
very, very slowly to prevent it winding around a branch. 

Be careful!
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Jon Kåre Hellan wrote:

It's http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.html - with an 'l' at 
the end.




That's better.

Note that anyone thinking of using this in England might be advised to 
consult with the local police as it might be interpreted as being an air 
rifle, in which case the muzzle energy is more than three times the 
limit above which a firearms certificate would be needed.  (The limit is 
12 foot pounds, but the potential energy at the top of the arc is 150 * 
0.25, i.e. 37.5 foot pounds, and tennis balls will have high enough drag 
that the launch energy will be significantly higher.)


The situation in England seems to depend on the words lethal and weapon.

It appears that the rules in South Africa are simpler, and it looks like 
it would definitely be classified as a firearm there.  The muzzle energy 
limit is also lower.  The only air weapon exemptions appear to be for 
calibres less than .22, and I haven't seen many .21 inch 4oz tennis 
balls.  The definition doesn't depend on ability to cause harm or the 
use of the word weapon.


It looks like it would also be a firearm in Canada, with an even lower 
muzzle energy limit.  The uncertainty there is whether or not it could 
cause serious injury.  Batton rounds, with less than 4 times the muzzle 
energy have killed people, e.g. recently during a firearms training 
exercise in the UK.


--
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio

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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread Julius Fazekas
This is Alan's site (as is the previous posting). I whole heartedly recommend 
the CSV-19. It is simple to use and effective, particularly if you have tall 
trees.

I've tried most of the other suggested methods, and while most will work to 
some degree or another, they usually take multiple tries and are height limited.

While this device is not cheap, if you do a lot of antenna work in your trees, 
this is a real time saver. Well worth the price...

It's also my most borrowed piece of equipment ;o) 


http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html

73  CU in NAQP CW this weekend!

Jules

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
The ARRL Antenna Book suggests using a pulley and counter weight to allow for 
the varying distances between trees caused by wind. At my former QTH, Ellijay 
GA, I noticed that in very gusty conditions sometimes the support trees moved 
in opposite directions at the same time. I decided to make my counterweight out 
of an eight foot length of 5/16 chain. Put about a third of the length of the 
chain on the ground during no wind conditions. Now as the wind moves the trees 
more of less of the chain gets lifted off the ground. This gives a gradual 
increment in the weight of the counterweight. The antenna that I had up was 88' 
of #18 insulatd wire up 40', center fed with 450 Ohm line.

With this antenna I got into ECN on 40 and 20 using the K1 just about every 
time I tried. (Kevin, wish I could find a place for this type of antenna where 
I now live.)

I was concerned about the sudden change of weight caused by a solid one piece 
weight hitting the ground or lifted off the ground. With one third of the chain 
on the ground the weight does not swing in the breeze.

73, Ty, W1TF, K1 #1423,  K3 #696





  
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread Brian
My G5RV is up in the oak trees here and is attached using springs at each
end.  They are about 12 inches long and 1 inch in diameter.  Been up for a
couple of years with no problems.  

Brian
N1WNC


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Re: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread n4lq
I use a reel with 6 lb line and a wrist rocket  from Walmart with a lead 
fishing weight. Lay the reel on the ground and shoot the weight over the top 
of the tree. I try to avoid large limbs. You want the line over the soft 
bushy limbs. They act as a spring or shock absorber. Use the line to pull up 
some nylon twine then use the twine to pull up your rope. The wind can blow 
all it wants and those soft limbs act like a nice cushion. I've even been 
know to run insulated antenna wire right through a tree with no ill effects 
on the HF bands.

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: Ralph Tyrrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees


The ARRL Antenna Book suggests using a pulley and counter weight to allow 
for the varying distances between trees caused by wind. At my former QTH, 
Ellijay GA, I noticed that in very gusty conditions sometimes the support 
trees moved in opposite directions at the same time. I decided to make my 
counterweight out of an eight foot length of 5/16 chain. Put about a 
third of the length of the chain on the ground during no wind conditions. 
Now as the wind moves the trees more of less of the chain gets lifted off 
the ground. This gives a gradual increment in the weight of the 
counterweight. The antenna that I had up was 88' of #18 insulatd wire up 
40', center fed with 450 Ohm line.


With this antenna I got into ECN on 40 and 20 using the K1 just about 
every time I tried. (Kevin, wish I could find a place for this type of 
antenna where I now live.)


I was concerned about the sudden change of weight caused by a solid one 
piece weight hitting the ground or lifted off the ground. With one third 
of the chain on the ground the weight does not swing in the breeze.


73, Ty, W1TF, K1 #1423,  K3 #696






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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees; Ant Launching [end of thread]

2008-07-28 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
With close to 40 posts in the last couple of days on these topics, we've 
saturated this area. Let's let it rest for now. :-)


73, Eric  WA6HHQ
Elecraft List Moderator


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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-28 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
I had those 12 inch springs once at a location where I live. Most of the time I 
just put up a 130 ft dipole and feed it with ladder line and let the good times 
roll!! G


--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 1:41 PM
 My G5RV is up in the oak trees here and is attached using
 springs at each
 end.  They are about 12 inches long and 1 inch in diameter.
  Been up for a
 couple of years with no problems.  
 
 Brian
 N1WNC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Benny Aumala wrote:


http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm


That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
their search engine results).

It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.




--
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio

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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Charles Harpole

I am not a professional tree climber and do not

even play one on tv, BUT I recommend using a

light rope with a plastic bottle partly filled with water

as the throwing weight.  That way, if the bottle breaks,

u do not have 12 oz of ball bearings raining down on

ur or ur neighbor's heads.  Also, for the times u miss and the 

water bottle gets hung up in a tree, when it finally comes

loose, all u get is a little wet and a light plastic bottle coming down!

Also, same level of safety when the water bottle comes loose from 

the rope in mid flight.  

A slingshot or bow/arrow look great, but take care of down range hits.  73


Charles Harpole

[EMAIL PROTECTED]






 Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:14:11 +0100
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

 Benny Aumala wrote:

 http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm

 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb. The
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.



 --
 David Woolley
 The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to
 Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio
 List Guidelines 
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread AD6XY

What you need are a set of climbing poles, which needs the poles, 3 ropes and
a weight. The climbing poles are very two long rods with a hook on the end
of each able to slide along each other (but not tilt !). The poles extend
via two ropes, one per pole attached to the base of that pole and to near
the top of the other. Then you hook the first pole over a branch. Pull on a
rope to extend the second pole and hook it over a higher branch. Continue
branch by branch up the tree.  This contraption can carry a weight attached
to a third rope with a release mechanism (a breakable tie for example). When
over the branch you want, pull the rope from the correct side so the weight
comes over the branch and back down to ground. The climbing contraption also
needs to be tied to the rope so you can unhook it from the lower branch.

After this, curse the fact you forgot to tie the aerial to the rope and
start again. 

Hard work. It is easier to fire up a weight in a catapult. To stop leaving
failed projectiles (e.g. tennis balls) in the tree, make the projectile out
of ice, it will then melt.
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Antennas-in-trees-tp582760p585503.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

Dan's comment is very true of *any* antenna, and most especially tree
mounted antennas. 

To survive storms at all, it's very important that the antenna wire or
the halyards *never* fall under strain from the tree as it moves in the
wind. Even small trees can exert tons of pressure on the wire or
halyard.

I have an Inverted L with the end attached about 50 feet up in a 60 foot
high Spruce tree.

Two counterweight systems maintain sufficient tension on the antenna to
keep it in place while allowing the anchor point in the tree to move at
least 15 feet in high winds. One counterweight allows the main antenna
end guy rope to change length as needed as the tree moves and the other
allows the back stay that loops over the tree to move independently.

The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
shock load. 

My antenna survived two storms with hurricane-force 100+ MPH winds last
winter, although the antenna counterweight did move almost its full
travel as the tree swayed more than 10 feet at the 50-foot level. This
summer I adjusted the system to allow more movement. 

Even so, the system needs to come down every couple of years to be
inspected for chafing of the lines and to move the lines somewhat if you
don't want them to damage the tree.

Dan's suggestion is an excellent one. No sense in starting from scratch
if the worst does happen! A few feet of extra line can make all the
difference in the world. If we humans have learned anything at all, it's
that anything human kind can erect nature can knock down!  

Ron AC7AC
 
-Original Message-
... and, HOWEVER you get the ropes over the tree, they will someday
fall. If
the location is a good one, you may want to use it again. Rather than
trying to hit that perfect branch again, I always include an extra rope,
for
after the fall.

The extra rope is a continuous loop that reaches the ground and does
not
bear any weight. It is used simply to pull a new rope/antenna up after
the
current one falls. It looks like I have three ropes over the branch, but
one
holds the antenna and the other two are just both sides of the backup
loop.

I usually do my antenna launching in the winter when foilage is less,
but
the things come down whenever they please. With a loop over each good
branch, I can pull up new rope/wire even in the middle of summer.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Alan Bloom
On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 04:14, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Benny Aumala wrote:
  
  http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm
 
 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

It works if you delete the /csv19/index.htm part.

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.

I was absolutely amazed watching a guy from the local tree service use
one of those things.  He just grabbed the rope a couple feet from the
bag, swung it in a circle a couple times, and effortlessly lofted it
precisely over the desired branch about 50 feet in the air.

Al N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jon Kåre Hellan

David Woolley (E.L) wrote:

Benny Aumala wrote:


http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm


That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
their search engine results).


It's http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.html - with an 'l' at 
the end.




It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.






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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Bill Johnson
I have one of those bags and they work very nicely, once you get the hang of
the timing.  I have yet to get over 30-35' in a vertical toss with accuracy.
So far my best bet has been a 7.5' fishing rod with 60 lb test line and some
weights, around 3/4 oz.  If I miss and the weight comes down where I don't
want it, I detach the weight and wind the line back very slowly so as to not
entangle the line.  At 60 lb test, one doesn't want to create too much
whiplash and catch one in the head.  Oh, did I mention safety glasses!


72,

Bill 

K9YEQ
K2 #35, K2 # 5279, KX1 #35, Mini Modules, etc.  

Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alan Bloom
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 1:29 PM
To: David Woolley (E.L)
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 04:14, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Benny Aumala wrote:
  
  http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm
 
 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

It works if you delete the /csv19/index.htm part.

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.

I was absolutely amazed watching a guy from the local tree service use
one of those things.  He just grabbed the rope a couple feet from the
bag, swung it in a circle a couple times, and effortlessly lofted it
precisely over the desired branch about 50 feet in the air.

Al N1AL


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Fw: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jim Miller
i watched an arborist doing some work next door and he showed me the old 
man's toss. it is a between-the-legs toss and it really works well for me 
compared to the lariat toss.

it uses the arms, legs and back and is directly in line with your spine.

i went home and with very little practice i can now hit 50+ feet with no
problem. this lets me launch a messenger line to take up my line saw with
which i keep the trees near my dipole trimmed.

73

jim ab3cv

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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jim Brown
On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:47:54 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
shock load

Yes. I have a half dozen dipoles suspended in redwoods, a Douglas Fir, and a 
Madrone at roughly 100 ft. I'm at 2,000 ft, about 5 miles from the Pacific, 
about 250 ft below the top of the ridge on the ocean side. Without weights, 
every antenna I installed was on the ground after the first real storm. Since 
I've installed counterweights, all have weathered 75 MPH winds for a couple 
of days. 

These antennas are heavy -- typically 150-250 ft spans, #10 copper, most with 
parallel #12 fan elements (to cover additional bands), and fed with RG8 or 
RG11. My weights are roughly 90-95#, and are made by simply filling 6.5gal 
water jugs with dry sand (roughly 1.5x heavier than water). Others have had 
good success by recycling the counterweights from vintage wood frame windows. 
I chose the tension by experimentally determining what it took to achieve the 
acceptable degree of droop. 

Counterweighting, of course, is only part of the story. When an antenna must 
withstand these kinds of forces, every element of their construction becomes 
critical. For this reason, I find nearly all of the commonly available center 
insulators for dipoles to be seriously lacking. The absolute worst was the 
RadioWavz unit. I bought two and used them to build 6M dipoles. Both fell 
apart when I pulled on the LM240 that attached to them!  

73,

Jim K9YC


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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
I've gotten my fair share of storms here too and rather than go the
route of counter weights since I had to kinda skirt the side of a big
cedar I opted for a rope method.

I ended up tying two ropes together at the center point of the dipole.
Then ran the rope up into the trees.  The rope bears all the force (and
it can take some HEAVY beating).  Then the antenna is simply hung from
the rope using crossed zipties around the spreaders (its a fanned
dipole).

This has lived through some pretty hair situations.  I did lose a few
feet of elevation one year but that was because the tree lost a limb and
I fell down to the next branch! hihi.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 22:16 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:47:54 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 
 The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
 heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
 of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
 than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
 to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
 shock load
 
 Yes. I have a half dozen dipoles suspended in redwoods, a Douglas Fir, and a 
 Madrone at roughly 100 ft. I'm at 2,000 ft, about 5 miles from the Pacific, 
 about 250 ft below the top of the ridge on the ocean side. Without weights, 
 every antenna I installed was on the ground after the first real storm. Since 
 I've installed counterweights, all have weathered 75 MPH winds for a couple 
 of days. 
 
 These antennas are heavy -- typically 150-250 ft spans, #10 copper, most with 
 parallel #12 fan elements (to cover additional bands), and fed with RG8 or 
 RG11. My weights are roughly 90-95#, and are made by simply filling 6.5gal 
 water jugs with dry sand (roughly 1.5x heavier than water). Others have had 
 good success by recycling the counterweights from vintage wood frame windows. 
 I chose the tension by experimentally determining what it took to achieve the 
 acceptable degree of droop. 
 
 Counterweighting, of course, is only part of the story. When an antenna must 
 withstand these kinds of forces, every element of their construction becomes 
 critical. For this reason, I find nearly all of the commonly available center 
 insulators for dipoles to be seriously lacking. The absolute worst was the 
 RadioWavz unit. I bought two and used them to build 6M dipoles. Both fell 
 apart when I pulled on the LM240 that attached to them!  
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-26 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Ron,

The information which I have sent to those who expressed interest contained 
a sketch which I believe would not be allowed in a post to the List. I could 
replace the diagram by some text if you think that I should post it, but 
unfortunately I won't be able to do that today. I hope that you have 
received the information.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Ron AC7AC wrote:


Whatziz this off line stuff Geoff? I'm sure a number of us are
interested. I know I am.

Don't be afraid of the self-appointed list cops. There's only one
moderator and he's heartily endorsed such digressions within reason.
Experience shows that if it's something an Elecraft rig owner might be
interested in to enjoy building, modifying or operating his rig, it's
something that belongs here.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-25 Thread Martin Evans
Sorry for the off topic query but a few years ago I saw on this reflector a
link to a site which showed a design for a system of two poles and cords
which was used to drop a weight over a tree bow and get further up the tree
by stages.

I cannot use a projectile since there is a house immediately behind.

Anybody spotted this design?

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV, K1
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
-Original Message-
Sorry for the off topic query but a few years ago I saw on this
reflector a
link to a site which showed a design for a system of two poles and cords
which was used to drop a weight over a tree bow and get further up the
tree
by stages.

I cannot use a projectile since there is a house immediately behind.

Anybody spotted this design?

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV, K1
___

Don't know that technique Martin, but I have seen one or more party-type
Mylar helium balloon - the kind sold in grocery stores, etc. - used
successfully. It requires two people, sufficient room and quiet air. Two
light threads are attached to the balloon(s). One thread is held by each
person. The balloon is allowed to float up until it is well clear of the
top of the tree, then one person walks around the tree to the opposite
side, keeping the thread clear of branches, until in the desired
position. Then one person pulls the thread in while the other lets
thread out until the balloon is back at the ground level and the thread
is draped over the tree. 

Now a string, then a cord, and finally a rope is attached and pulled
over the tree.

It's important that no power lines be where a runaway balloon and thread
can reach them. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-25 Thread n4lq

All you need is a dog, a cat and a rifle.

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: Martin Evans [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 12:46 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees


Sorry for the off topic query but a few years ago I saw on this reflector 
a

link to a site which showed a design for a system of two poles and cords
which was used to drop a weight over a tree bow and get further up the 
tree

by stages.

I cannot use a projectile since there is a house immediately behind.

Anybody spotted this design?

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV, K1
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1571 - Release Date: 7/24/2008 
5:42 PM






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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-25 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Hi Martin,

By any chance are you thinking about the method I use? We discussed it a few
years ago, please contact me off-List if you think that it might be. I have
since 'refined' the hardware used to get up 100ft plus pine trees in roughly
25ft stages, which also allows accurate positioning of a line.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Martin Evans wrote on Friday, July 25, 2008 5:46 PM

Sorry for the off topic query but a few years ago I saw on this reflector 
a

link to a site which showed a design for a system of two poles and cords
which was used to drop a weight over a tree bow and get further up the 
tree

by stages.

I cannot use a projectile since there is a house immediately behind.

Anybody spotted this design?

Thanks
Martin
M0KWV, K1


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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Whatziz this off line stuff Geoff? I'm sure a number of us are
interested. I know I am. 

Don't be afraid of the self-appointed list cops. There's only one
moderator and he's heartily endorsed such digressions within reason.
Experience shows that if it's something an Elecraft rig owner might be
interested in to enjoy building, modifying or operating his rig, it's
something that belongs here.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Martin,

By any chance are you thinking about the method I use? We discussed it a
few
years ago, please contact me off-List if you think that it might be. I
have
since 'refined' the hardware used to get up 100ft plus pine trees in
roughly
25ft stages, which also allows accurate positioning of a line.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft- Antennas and trees

2004-09-10 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Hello Alan,

Carrying or using a slingshot is illegal anywhere here in Scotland. Use of
archery hardware has to be cleared by the police. The use of tennis balls is
not restricted in any way. Maybe your website will answer my questions ( I
shall be visiting) :
  With a Pneumatic Tennis Ball Launcher, can one put a line over a
chosen branch at a desired spot , say 100 - 150ft up, assuming that a clear
line of sight exists between launcher and chosen branch , and no wind gusts?
And what is done to prevent the ball spinning around a branch and thereby
making the effort useless ? I appreciate that practice makes perfect. I do
know that lobbing a line over the top of a tree can be of little use except
for temporary set-ups. By chosen branch I mean a branch that allows the
final catenary / support rope to exit the tree without chafing against other
branches or foliage in any weather conditions.
I am looking for a method to replace the way I have been doing things which
is a little slow - although I can put a line exactly where I want it at
120ft up. Height is not really a problem.

73,Geoff   GM4ESD

- Original Message - 
From: Alan WB6ZQZ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft- Antennas and trees


 We use slingshots and archery in the forest (but they are generally
illegal
 inside city limits or in residential areas), or Pneumatic Tennis Ball
 Launchers (legal in most areas). The pneumatics are safer than either
 arrows or lead sinkers, and capable of getting to 200 feet or more in
 height if needed.

 More info at http://www.qsl.net/wb6zqz/antlaunching.html

 -- Alan

 At 07:50 AM 9/9/2004, Hisashi wrote:
 On Thu, 9 Sep 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Geoff, how did you get a fixing on the tree at 80 feet! I have a poplar
 tree here at about 60 feet high but only got a fixing at 30 feet. I lost
my
 bottle to climb any higher hi.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft- Antennas and trees

2004-09-09 Thread Martin . Evans




 Snip

Bad news. Very sorry indeed.

I agree with Ron about strain relief when using trees. A MUST in my
opinion.
Here I have a rope catenary up about 80 feet and about 200ft long, one end
to a pine tree - the other to a hardwood. Both dance in the 100 mph winds
we
get at times, nothing like your winds. The rope is 6mm triple braided
ultraviolet resistant for marine use. The pulleys also for marine use
(sheets) with ball bearings and of the ENCLOSED type so that the chance of
a
flying twig jamming a pulley is much reduced. I had this happen years ago
when using open pulleys. My counterweight is like Ron's but low tech.
Don't have the bucket yet.

Good luck and 73,

GeoffGM4ESD

Snip

Geoff, how did you get a fixing on the tree at 80 feet! I have a poplar
tree here at about 60 feet high but only got a fixing at 30 feet. I lost my
bottle to climb any higher hi.

Martin
M0KWV
K1 # 1534



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