Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Thanks Gernot. The RF board was already assembled when I bought the unit - I didn’t do any soldering. I’ve spent two days going through the boards with a fine tooth comb (aka strong magnifier) and I can’t find any solder bridges or poorly seated components. I did wake up with an idea in my head at 3am though, so I have another avenue of attack to try this afternoon. Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I’ll post when I’ve tested my idea. 73 -Adrian KJ7SOY > On Feb 16, 2021, at 7:10 AM, g...@gmx.net wrote: > > The resistance checks are meant to measure at U13 after being placed and > soldered. It is not a component check, but it will check if you have done the > placement and soldering of all the connected stuff correctly. IAW, a > different value could mean you did a mistake somewhere else. Visually inspect > the boards, solder joints etc before you pull out the component. In case you > already did it, then just test the 7808 outside of the board. Put 12V to > Pin1, GND to Pin 2 and check if you get 8V at Pin 3. > > Happy building, > Gernot DF5RF > >> Am 14.02.2021 um 22:32 schrieb KJ7SOY: >> Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. >> Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! >> I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been >> sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags >> since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. >> I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. >> Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 >> passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I >> suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and >> assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve >> removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. >> with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just >> replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? >> Thanks! >> 73 >> -Adrian >> KJ7SOY >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to g...@gmx.net > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to kj7...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
The resistance checks are meant to measure at U13 after being placed and soldered. It is not a component check, but it will check if you have done the placement and soldering of all the connected stuff correctly. IAW, a different value could mean you did a mistake somewhere else. Visually inspect the boards, solder joints etc before you pull out the component. In case you already did it, then just test the 7808 outside of the board. Put 12V to Pin1, GND to Pin 2 and check if you get 8V at Pin 3. Happy building, Gernot DF5RF Am 14.02.2021 um 22:32 schrieb KJ7SOY: Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? Thanks! 73 -Adrian KJ7SOY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to g...@gmx.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Unassembled Heathkits have sold for amazing amounts of money. (I use the past tense because I doubt there any of those treasures left these days.) I have even heard of people "making" an unassembled kit by buying a built one, taking it apart, unsoldering all the components, and replacing the soldered parts with new ones. Apparently it is financially worthwhile to do that. :=) Alan N1AL On 2/14/2021 4:20 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote: Hi Adrian, welcome to the hobby and to the Elecraft list, Wow, that's quite a collector's item! I'd consider asking Elecraft what they'd charge to assemble and align for you. John KN5L On 2/14/21 3:32 PM, KJ7SOY wrote: Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Hi Adrian, welcome to the hobby and to the Elecraft list, Wow, that's quite a collector's item! I'd consider asking Elecraft what they'd charge to assemble and align for you. John KN5L On 2/14/21 3:32 PM, KJ7SOY wrote: > Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. > Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! > > I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been > sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags > since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 > passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I > suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and > assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. > with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just > replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > Thanks! > 73 > -Adrian > KJ7SOY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Same as "MAC" for the computer, or an urban legend -- they picked it up somewhere and repeated it and someone else picks it up from them. On Sun, Feb 14, 2021, 17:31 Gwen Patton wrote: > Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put > it in all caps. I have no idea why people keep insisting on capitalizing > it? I know it's off-topic, but why do people do that? Does anyone know? > > -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- > 73, > Gwen, NG3P > > > On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 5:26 PM Bill Frantz wrote: > > > When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from < > > supp...@elecraft.com>. > > > > 73 Bill AE6JV > > > > On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > > > > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > > > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 > > ohms. This unit has never been > > > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a > > board just fine and assemble > > > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > > removed the side cover and checked > > > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have > any > > ideas how I should proceed? > > > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > > > > --- > > Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it > take > > www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to ard...@gmail.com > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to ju...@juliatuttle.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put it in all caps. I have no idea why people keep insisting on capitalizing it? I know it's off-topic, but why do people do that? Does anyone know? -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 73, Gwen, NG3P On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 5:26 PM Bill Frantz wrote: > When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from < > supp...@elecraft.com>. > > 73 Bill AE6JV > > On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > > > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 > ohms. This unit has never been > > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a > board just fine and assemble > > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve > removed the side cover and checked > > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any > ideas how I should proceed? > > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? > > --- > Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it take > www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to ard...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from . 73 Bill AE6JV On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote: > I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. > Voltage regulators U12 and U13 > are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. > This unit has never been > powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board > just fine and assemble > PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve removed > the side cover and checked > for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any > ideas how I should proceed? > Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? --- Bill Frantz| Re IOT: "How many access control systems does it take www.pwpconsult.com | to change a light bulb?" - Dean Tribble __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 assembly issue
Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general. Thanks for bearing with me while I learn! I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009. I’ve hit a snag and I’m hoping someone here can help. I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests. Voltage regulators U12 and U13 are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms. U12 passes but U13 tests at 87 ohms. This unit has never been powered up so I suspect it has to be a bad regulator. I can solder a board just fine and assemble PCB’s but I’m not overly comfortable with hardware debugging. I’ve removed the side cover and checked for loose boards, bad connections, etc. with no success. Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed? Do I just replace the regulator? Do some other debugging? Thanks! 73 -Adrian KJ7SOY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of t! ! he LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
According to the assembly manual page 55, The NOTE states The three screws marked A must be 1/4 black pan head with inside tooth lock washers under the screw heads. Also read the CAUTION. Bob Serwy - N9RS Bob Serwy - N9RS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 6:51 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of t! ! he LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
Rodger, I assembled my K3 a couple of weeks ago (s/n 1217), and did not experience your problem. The three transistors clamped nicely against the (thicker) bottom cover using only the hardware specified in the instructions. As I recall, there are both 3/16 and 1/4 screws in the kit. You sure you've used the correct screws everywhere? Took me about 10-11 hours to assemble my K3 (100W). I'm amazed you could do it only 4 hours! 73, Jim W8ZR Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of the LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover!
Thanks Bob! I bet this is it. At midnight I was beginning to go cross eyed. I must have missed the internal tooth lock washers! Better RF ground this way as well. Thanks Gang! 73, Rodger N4NRW Original message Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 07:06:04 -0500 From: Bob Serwy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] According to the assembly manual page 55, The NOTE states The three screws marked A must be 1/4 black pan head with inside tooth lock washers under the screw heads. Also read the CAUTION. Bob Serwy - N9RS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 6:51 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly issue with bottom Heat Sink cover! Hey gang, Just spent 4 hours assembling K3 s/n 1318 and all went well except for one slight but potentially serious hardware problem. When installing the bottom heat sink cover over the LPA I noticed that the required 4-40 x 1/4 screws bottomed out in the standoffs under the TO-220 LPA transistors before they would compress the cover to the transistors (and yes I can measure screw lengths). This will leave a gap between the transistor and the heatsink and not provide proper heat sinking! It is strange to note that one of the Manual Errata changes was to point out that the heat sink cover was slightly thicker than the other bottom cover. Wonder if this part has changed? Any way, I added 3 #4 stainless steel flat washers under the screw heads and that allows the screws to fully compress the heat sink against the transistors. For a belts and suspenders fix I also added a dab of heat sink compound to the transistors as well. I did not check the screws coming from the top side of t! ! he LPA assy to see if the factory may have used the wrong/longer screws taking up extra standoff threads. A #4 split washer could have also been left off of this top side screw and create the same issue or tol. stack up of the parts? Any way HEADS UP! 73, Rodger N4NRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - Assembly Issue - U12 Test
My resistance test (page 39) on U12 is less than the 500 ohms per manual. It is 350 to 400 ohmn (different scales on digital meter). My analog meter shows 270 ohms. Anyone else had this issue? I emailed support, but thought I would check here also. K3 S/N 841 Joe N9VX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Assembly Issue - U12 Test
Mine measured either 6K or 60K ohms (can't read my own scribbling) according to a marginal note in the assembly manual. 73, Ken K3IU K3 #202 ~ Joe Word wrote: My resistance test (page 39) on U12 is less than the 500 ohms per manual. It is 350 to 400 ohmn (different scales on digital meter). My analog meter shows 270 ohms. Anyone else had this issue? I emailed support, but thought I would check here also. K3 S/N 841 Joe N9VX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
