Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Let's end this thread at this time. We actually closed it mid-day yesterday due 
to the large number of postings. :-)

73,
Eric
Moderator
/elecraft.com/

On 4/6/2016 8:45 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Ron,

Most coils I am winding are typically No.22 to No.16 solid copper magnet 
wire.  I hold the knife vertical to the wired and scrape sideways so never 
pressing into the wire - no nicks.  Eventually that does dull the razor blade 
but they are easily replaced.  The knife I use looks like a miniature box 
cutter knife.


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

Ron,

Most coils I am winding are typically No.22 to No.16 solid copper 
magnet wire.  I hold the knife vertical to the wired and scrape 
sideways so never pressing into the wire - no nicks.  Eventually that 
does dull the razor blade but they are easily replaced.  The knife I 
use looks like a miniature box cutter knife.


Actually there is much greater risk using a wire stripper to nick a 
wire.  Now I suppose if you are winding a toroid with something like 
No. 28 the risk would be higher.  IN that case probably melting the 
enamel with solder iron or into solder pot is preferable.


But good to caution folks about that.  I see nicks more likely from 
stripping insulation that requires cutting completely around the wire 
while pressing down into the insulation to the wire.


73, Ed

From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
Message-ID: <001801d19032$cc8d1e60$65a75b20$@biz>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel.

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration.
---snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ken K6MR]

Vector also made a wire wrap tool that did not require stripping before 
wrapping: “Slit ‘n Wrap”. The tip of the tool had a knife edge that stripped 
the wire on the inside edge as you wrapped. They made a special wire that was 
sort of a cross between enamel and standard wire wrap wire. It was really quick 
because you could daisy chain from pin to pin without cutting/stripping 
individual wires. OK Machine Tool also made the “Just Wrap” which was a knock 
off of the same idea.

Ken K6MR



From: Mike Dodd<mailto:m...@mdodd.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 17:40
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

On 4/6/2016 2:44 PM, EricJ wrote:
> Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or
> so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB
> changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do.
> It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.

No, wirewrap is completely different. It uses insulated (_not_ enameled)
#30 wire that must be stripped before wrapping. A motorized tool wraps
around 0.25" square posts. The sharp edges cut into the wire to make a
gas-tight connection. The connection is not soldered.

Trust me -- Early in my career,I spent hundreds of hours making
thousands of wirewrapped connections, and I even bought a Gardner-Denver
AC powered tool for home use (vs. the battery-powered tools we used at
work). I still have that tool, and a thousand feet of #30 wire, but I do
little wrapping these days.

The Vector tool is just a plastic "pencil" with a hollow metal tip
through which the enameled wire feeds. You manually wrap the wire around
a pin, move the pencil to the next pin, wrap that, and cut the wire.
Then you solder both pins. The solder melts through the enamel to make a
normal joint.


--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/6/2016 2:44 PM, EricJ wrote:

Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or
so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB
changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do.
It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.


No, wirewrap is completely different. It uses insulated (_not_ enameled) 
#30 wire that must be stripped before wrapping. A motorized tool wraps 
around 0.25" square posts. The sharp edges cut into the wire to make a 
gas-tight connection. The connection is not soldered.


Trust me -- Early in my career,I spent hundreds of hours making 
thousands of wirewrapped connections, and I even bought a Gardner-Denver 
AC powered tool for home use (vs. the battery-powered tools we used at 
work). I still have that tool, and a thousand feet of #30 wire, but I do 
little wrapping these days.


The Vector tool is just a plastic "pencil" with a hollow metal tip 
through which the enameled wire feeds. You manually wrap the wire around 
a pin, move the pencil to the next pin, wrap that, and cut the wire. 
Then you solder both pins. The solder melts through the enamel to make a 
normal joint.



--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Nr4c]

Saw a picture of a small "candelabra" socket (RS has them) on a board and a 
screw-in soldering element of 40 watts with a screw-in tip (tip removed and the 
hole filled with solder).  I drilled the threads out of the hole and it 
actually worked. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 6, 2016, at 2:06 PM, N2TK, Tony  wrote:
> 
> Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
> there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
> it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
> I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?
> 
> 73,
> N2TK, Tony
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
> Jensen
> Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 1:45 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
> 
> Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little one
> with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel contamination
> ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is shiny and bright
> again.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
> 
>> On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
>> I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
>> tin on my soldering pencil.
>> I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with 
>> a rag or cloth glove.
>> 
>> Dick, n0ce
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Looks like we've beat this one to deaf. Let's end the thread in the interest of 
reducing email overload for our readers.


73,

Eric
Moderatorororor
/elecraft.com/

On 4/6/2016 12:20 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

I prefer the solder pot set on max to strip enamel and all other non thermal 
coatings.  I do use a wade of steel wool to wisk the material off.  No 
abrasions and no nicks.
Mel, K6KBE


   From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
  To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 11:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one

caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel.

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration.

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

I prefer the solder pot set on max to strip enamel and all other non thermal 
coatings.  I do use a wade of steel wool to wisk the material off.  No 
abrasions and no nicks.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 11:33 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
   
Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel. 

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration. 

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
    "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
    dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[EricJ]

Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or 
so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB 
changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do. 
It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.


Eric
KE6us

On 4/6/2016 8:37 AM, Mike Dodd wrote:

On 4/6/2016 11:13 AM, Dave Heil wrote:

...eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


Remember Vector's "wiring pencil?" 
 You used it to wire a 
breadboard with #32 enameled wire. Once you wrapped the wire around a 
pin, you applied a soldering iron and solder, which melted the enamel 
to allow a good solder joint.


I still have mine, and used it just a few weeks ago to wire an Arduino 
breadboard.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel. 

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration. 

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[John Ellsworth]

I don't remember where I found this idea - might have been on this forum
- or youtube...

I have an old 30W soldering iron.  I removed the tip and replaced it
with a Phillips-head bolt the same size thread.  Took a 3/32 drill bit,
and drilled into the Phillips-head out abt 1/2inch deep.  Put the
soldering iron into a vice - or clamp it to your bench, business-side
up.  Fill the hole with solder, and voilà - a mini solder pot.

73 de JohnE/kd0nqc

On 04/06/2016 01:06 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
> Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
> there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
> it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
> I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?
> 
> 73,
> N2TK, Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[N2TK, Tony]

Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?

73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 1:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little one
with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel contamination
ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is shiny and bright
again.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
> tin on my soldering pencil.
> I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with 
> a rag or cloth glove.
>
> Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Fred Jensen]

Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little 
one with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel 
contamination ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is 
shiny and bright again.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the
tin on my soldering pencil.
I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with a
rag or cloth glove.

Dick, n0ce


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Richard Fjeld]

I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
tin on my soldering pencil.
I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with a 
rag or cloth glove.


Dick, n0ce

On 4/6/2016 11:35 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them 
with a small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for 
tinning.  Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy 
glob on the iron and not a very clean lead. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them 
with a small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for 
tinning.  Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy 
glob on the iron and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot 
but could see that would work except for contamination of the solder 
if you do many.


I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is 
normally coating magnet wire.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/6/2016 11:13 AM, Dave Heil wrote:

...eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


Remember Vector's "wiring pencil?" 
 You used it to wire a 
breadboard with #32 enameled wire. Once you wrapped the wire around a 
pin, you applied a soldering iron and solder, which melted the enamel to 
allow a good solder joint.


I still have mine, and used it just a few weeks ago to wire an Arduino 
breadboard.


--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Dave Heil]

An old engineer at Foster Transformer in Cincinnati once showed me a 
method which caused the Ideal company to take their new abrasive enamel 
removing machine off the market:  The fellow took a newly-made 
transformer with about eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then 
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


73,

Dave K8MN

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

As Don said, heat is important to use the blob method. I have a 275 watt
Weller D-550 gun with a fat tip that does a great job, but I still prefer
sanding. Just fold a bit of sand paper and trap the wire inside and pull.
Repeat while turning the wire until it's all clean, then tin.

Some enamel wire is more easily heat-strippable than others. In fact, I've
seen some brands advertised as "heat strippable" with "Thermaleze" or
"Solidon(r)" insulation.  

Like LS, I like the smell of hot rosin. It's part of Ham Radio for me. 

73, Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 5:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure 

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.

I too kind of like the smell of flux, but I try to keep from breathing it in
too much.

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

LS,

Yes, the solder blob method works best with a wide tip on the iron to 
hold a substantial blob of solder and a temperature of 800 degF.
I use my Hakko 808 for stripping leads, and it works wonderfully. The 
only downside is that the enamel residue accumulates in the desoldering 
tip and I have to clean it well after using it for stripping and 
tinning.  For those who have a desoldering iron similar to the Hakko 
808, put the lead in the tip and add a bit of solder at the junction of 
the tip and wire.  When you see a puff of smoke come out, pull the 
trigger and extract the lead.  You should find a nicely stripped and 
tinned lead.

Clean the desoldering iron afterwards.

I would discourage builders from using the "flick the BIC" stripping.  
While it does vaporize the enamel, there is a residue left that often 
resists proper tinning afterward.  My repair activities have revealed 
many PTTL (Poorly Tinned Toriod Leads) that have been stripped of enamel 
using a flame.  If you do use a flame to strip the toroid leads, clean 
the residue from the leads with sandpaper and then tin.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 8:51 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[lstavenhagen]

Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
my iron is too cold (weller WTCPT with 700f tip), but I can hold it onto the
wire forever and it'll never bubble up and burn off. Go figure 

But as others have noted, it scrapes off pretty easily so I just use some
fine sandpaper and I can clean them almost all the way up to the hilt (the
toroid body). Works perfectly as long as I'm not too aggressive and remove
too much metal.

I too kind of like the smell of flux, but I try to keep from breathing it in
too much.

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

The wire Elecraft supplies is in the category of "Thermalese" which is 
heat strippable, but if you get wire from an electric motor shop, that 
insulation will likely be "Formvar" which resists heat and must be 
mechanically stripped.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 7:17 PM, Scott Ellington wrote:
There are two very different kinds of insulation used on magnet wire. 
One type, which I presume Elecraft uses, can be stripped with solder 
and a sufficiently hot soldering iron.  It's also fairly easy to 
scrape off.  The other, "heavy polythermaleze", or whatever it's 
called these days, is practically indestructible. It has to be 
stripped mechanically, and even that's hard.  I think the copper would 
melt before the stuff would burn.  Unless you're planning to run your 
toroids really hot, it's more trouble than it's worth.


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Scott Ellington]

There are two very different kinds of insulation used on magnet wire.  
One type, which I presume Elecraft uses, can be stripped with solder and 
a sufficiently hot soldering iron.  It's also fairly easy to scrape 
off.  The other, "heavy polythermaleze", or whatever it's called these 
days, is practically indestructible.  It has to be stripped 
mechanically, and even that's hard.  I think the copper would melt 
before the stuff would burn.  Unless you're planning to run your toroids 
really hot, it's more trouble than it's worth.


73,

Scott  K9MA

On 4/5/2016 17:58, Dauer, Edward wrote:

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR



Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

LS,

There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
crystals.
. . .

It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.

73,
Don W3FPR


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--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

I seem to recall they could produce cyanide fumes. Best to use good ventilation 
and a fume extractor fan with filter if you are doing a lot of them. I like the 
smell of solder flux, but after reading about the health problems they can 
cause I invested in a fume extractor here.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 6 Apr 2016, at 00:08, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Yes, the fumes from that burnt enamel are quite nasty.  I would say they are 
> more harmful than normal solder flux vapors.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/5/2016 6:58 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
>> but it might be important not to inhale.
>> 
>> At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
>> enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
>> the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
>> when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
>> workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
>> breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
>> Blob Strip.
>> 
>> Ted, KN1CBR
>> 
>> 
>>> Message: 11
>>> Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
>>> From: Don Wilhelm 
>>> To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
>>> Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>>> 
>>> LS,
>>> 
>>> There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
>>> crystals.
>>> . . .
>>> 
>>> It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, the fumes from that burnt enamel are quite nasty.  I would say they 
are more harmful than normal solder flux vapors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2016 6:58 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR



Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

LS,

There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
crystals.
. . .

It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.

73,
Don W3FPR





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[Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Dauer, Edward]

The ³Blob Method² worked well for me in building the K2 (and now the K1);
but it might be important not to inhale.

At the time I looked into what¹s in the fumes when both the solder and the
enamel coating on the wire are smoking.  While I don¹t know exactly what
the coating is on the particular wire supplied by Elecraft, in general
when it¹s vaporized the coating is vile stuff.  I set a fan on the
workbench to direct the fumes away from my face; and I still held my
breath for each winding leg.  Makes it useful to learn how to do a fast
Blob Strip.

Ted, KN1CBR


>Message: 11
>Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 22:32:59 -0400
>From: Don Wilhelm 
>To: lstavenhagen , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 (still) a classic!
>Message-ID: <570323db.5090...@embarqmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
>LS,
>
>There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
>crystals.
>. . . 
>
>It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>

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[Elecraft] Stripping Toroid Leads - My experience

[benkb1ahr-elecraftlist]

I just finished all the receiver circuit toroids in my K2 over the last couple 
of weeks, and I wanted to share my experiences concerning stripping the toroid 
leads for those of you who may want to know.
 
I read several threads in the elecraft list archive on this, and I combined 
several techniques, the final result of which worked very well for me.
 
Set soldering station to 800 deg F.
 
Arrange toroid wire so it is coming off the side of the toroid while stripping 
(instead of off the bottom.)
 
Scrape insulation off toroid wire far enough away from the toroid so that when 
it's finally mounted to the pc board and trimmed, the scraped section gets cut 
off and discarded (removing this insulation helps the heat get to the wire, so 
the insulation comes off faster.)
 
**Keep adding solder to the blob on the iron as you're running the wire through 
it (the extra flux helps remove the insulation too.)
 
**Clean the residual flux residue/solder off the iron regularly, and reapply 
clean solder.
 
When the insulation is stripped completely from a lead, apply fresh solder to 
the end closest to the toroid, and draw it across the iron quickly to the other 
end of where you've stripped.  This will get it tinned well, and helps avoid 
bulges of solder on the lead once it's finished.
 
The steps I marked with the ** are ones I have not seen others mention on the 
reflector as of yet.
 
Hope this helps someone out.
 
-Ben  KB1AHR
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