RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The most comprehensive writeup I've seen is here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm

I'd agree that you probably don't want to order 200, 250, 400 and 500.
However two of these four makes sense for some buyers, including me. 

If you configure the radio correctly, roofing filters are selected
automatically as you turn the width knob.  You may also directly select a
roofing filter.  I just twist the width knob to adjust the DSP bandwidth and
the appropriate roofing filter is selected for me.

One reasonable starting configuration is just the stock 2.7 KHz filter.
If you want to transmit AM, you'll need the 6.0 KHz AM filter.  If FM is
important to you, you'll need the FM filter.  I'm not currently interested
in transmitting in either of these modes, so I skipped those two filters and
I can receive AM with adequate (for me) fidelity by using my 2.8 KHz filter
and listening to one sideband.  Discerning AM buffs might well have a
different definition of adequate fidelity.  

If you're interested in CW or data modes (RTTY, PSK, etc), then you'll
perhaps want to invest in one or more narrower filters, perhaps one or two
of 200, 250, 400, 500 Hz.  If it's only one narrower filter, I'd suggest
either the 400 or 500 Hz filter. I think of the 200 and 250 as alternatives
and 400 and 500 as alternatives.  I wouldn't think you'd want both 200 and
250 nor would you probably want both 400 and 500.

I personally don't think the difference between the 2.7 and 2.8 Hz filters
matters much, but I did choose all 8-pole filters. As a result I have
slightly wider SSB transmit bandwidth and sharper skirts on receive with the
2.8 KHz 8-pole filter.  

I like the 1.0 KHz filter as a normal CW bandwidth in contest situations.
It's not so tight that I can't hear off-frequency callers.

The 1.8 KHz filter is a wonderful filter for phone contests and other
shoulder-to-shoulder situations on phone. Others prefer 2.1 KHz for their
narrowest SSB roofing filter.  With the 1.8 I find that the off-frequency
crud often disappears, and the signal I'm isolating is comprehensible, but
communications fidelity rather than natural sounding.

I have to defer to the RTTY and PSK experts, but I think a 400 or 500 Hz
filter would be my 2nd filter (after the 2.7 or 2.8 decision).

My experience before the Elecraft K3 was with a series of up-converting ICOM
rigs including the 7800, whose narrowest roofing filter (after the roofing
filter upgrade) is 3 KHz. 

I chose 8-pole filters at 2.8, 1.8, 1.0, 400, and 250. I probably have more
than I need for almost all situations.  Most of my QSOs don't tax the
capability of any current-generation radio, but when the situation is very
competitive I don't want to be in mid-contest or mid-pileup and at that time
wish I'd spent the relatively small amount (compared to all the other
expenses in building a station) that these filters cost.

You don't have to decide all this at the time you receive the radio.  You
can add roofing filters easily at a later date. 

You just have to remove a handful of screws (top cover and half the bottom
cover), and the filter plugs in and is held in place by one lock washer and
nut.  You might need to rearrange your existing filters when you add a new
one so that they're in a natural sequence. 

Filter configuration takes a few minutes after you get the hang of it, and
it'll be even quicker with the next revision of the K3 Utility.

If you decide to add the 2nd receiver option, you'll need filter(s) for that
receiver as well.  You might make the same decisions again or maybe not.
I'm going to make different choices for my 2nd receiver.

Sorry it's not a crisp answer.  It's like a lot of topics, the answer is
always it depends...

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Miller
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 8:59 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

Thanks for bringing up the filter topic -

This is one of my main questions now.  I finally ordered mine with no
optional filters and plan on adding them to the order before ship BUT I do
not know which will be the best for me.  I suppose the answer to that is
that it will be different for everybody.  I do expect to add the second
reciever board at some point, maybe not before initial ship.

Some sub-topics:

1) Is there any point in ordering the 200, 250, 400 and 500? Probably not.
Somebody explain how the filters are selected by the radio and recommend a
couple of reasonable configurations please.  I want to be able to run  PSK,
RTTY, CW and SSB and mainly I want to not have to deal with nearby signals,
I want them GONE.

2) a. Why would you order a 2.8 when you get a 2.7 with the radio?
  b. Can you order the 2.8 instead of the standard 2.7 and receive some
credit for the 2.7 you didn't want?

3)  Will the 1.8 make the SSB hard to understand vs possibly the 2.1?  I
almost ordered the 1.8 but wasn't sure 

RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Bill W4ZV



Dick Dievendorff wrote:
 
 
 If you're interested in CW or data modes (RTTY, PSK, etc), then you'll
 perhaps want to invest in one or more narrower filters, perhaps one or two
 of 200, 250, 400, 500 Hz.  If it's only one narrower filter, I'd suggest
 either the 400 or 500 Hz filter. I think of the 200 and 250 as
 alternatives
 and 400 and 500 as alternatives.  I wouldn't think you'd want both 200 and
 250 nor would you probably want both 400 and 500.
 

The 400 and 250 are actually very close in bandwidth.  According to
Elecraft's own measurements below, the 400 actually has 435 Hz BW and the
250 is actually 370 Hz, both with the same shape factor.  You definitely
don't need to spend $250 total for two filters that only differ in BW by
about 15%.  Also note that the 2.7k actually has slightly wider BW than the
2.8k. 

Filter  BW(-6dB) Shape Factor
 200 224 4.0
 250 370 2.1
 400 435 2.1
 500 565 3.1
10001063 1.6
18001913 1.5
27002910 2.9
28002888 1.6
60006125 1.5 

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Roofing_Filters

FYI my 2.7k/1.0k/500 are in close agreement with the above measurements but
my 200 is slightly less than 210 Hz.

73,  Bill  W4ZV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread David Yarnes
I think Dick has put together an excellent summary regarding the available 
filters.  I sure don't see much to contradict based on my experience.


I would mention one thing, however, and i'm curious if others are 
experiencing the same anomoly.  I opted for both the 400 hz and the 200 hz 
filters (in addition to the 2.7 khz and 6 khz filters).  I am quite happy 
with the 400 hz filter.  Perhaps the 500 hz would have been sufficient, but 
I do like the 400 hz just fine.  My question is about the narrower 
filters--the 200 hz and the 250 hz.  I was almost certain I would use the 
narrow filter fairly often.  With other rigs I frequently found myself 
trying to 'tighten things down to eliminate QRM.  However, I find myself 
rarely needing to go down that far on the K3.  I probably haven't really 
given it the acid test, like Field Day, but it does surprise me that I 
tend to not even need something narrower.  I can only attribute that to the 
fact that the roofing filter system on the K3 is superior--that it does such 
a good job compared to other receivers I don't have to fight QRM as much.


I'm not into the digital modes yet on any kind of serious basis, so maybe 
that will turn out to be where the narrower filter proves to be most useful.


I would also be inclined to endorse Dick's suggestion of a 1 khz filter for 
casual CW use.  I don't have one though, so I can't say for sure.  But I 
strongly suspect it would be more pleasant to use.  I like not having to go 
too narrow, but QRM usually forced me to do so.  But since these are roofing 
filters, and not just crystal filters we usually rely on, I think QRM will 
still be minimized.  I am thinking seriously of ordering a 1 khz filter when 
I get my 2nd receiver.  If it works like I think it might, I may do some 
reassessment of my filter complement in the 1st receiver.  I'd be interested 
in hearing how others with the 1 khz filter like using it.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Dick Dievendorff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Jim Miller' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Elecraft Reflector' 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 12:17 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations



The most comprehensive writeup I've seen is here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm

I'd agree that you probably don't want to order 200, 250, 400 and 500.
However two of these four makes sense for some buyers, including me.

If you configure the radio correctly, roofing filters are selected
automatically as you turn the width knob.  You may also directly select 
a
roofing filter.  I just twist the width knob to adjust the DSP bandwidth 
and

the appropriate roofing filter is selected for me.

One reasonable starting configuration is just the stock 2.7 KHz filter.
If you want to transmit AM, you'll need the 6.0 KHz AM filter.  If FM is
important to you, you'll need the FM filter.  I'm not currently interested
in transmitting in either of these modes, so I skipped those two filters 
and
I can receive AM with adequate (for me) fidelity by using my 2.8 KHz 
filter

and listening to one sideband.  Discerning AM buffs might well have a
different definition of adequate fidelity.

If you're interested in CW or data modes (RTTY, PSK, etc), then you'll
perhaps want to invest in one or more narrower filters, perhaps one or two
of 200, 250, 400, 500 Hz.  If it's only one narrower filter, I'd suggest
either the 400 or 500 Hz filter. I think of the 200 and 250 as 
alternatives

and 400 and 500 as alternatives.  I wouldn't think you'd want both 200 and
250 nor would you probably want both 400 and 500.

I personally don't think the difference between the 2.7 and 2.8 Hz filters
matters much, but I did choose all 8-pole filters. As a result I have
slightly wider SSB transmit bandwidth and sharper skirts on receive with 
the

2.8 KHz 8-pole filter.

I like the 1.0 KHz filter as a normal CW bandwidth in contest 
situations.

It's not so tight that I can't hear off-frequency callers.

The 1.8 KHz filter is a wonderful filter for phone contests and other
shoulder-to-shoulder situations on phone. Others prefer 2.1 KHz for their
narrowest SSB roofing filter.  With the 1.8 I find that the off-frequency
crud often disappears, and the signal I'm isolating is comprehensible, but
communications fidelity rather than natural sounding.

I have to defer to the RTTY and PSK experts, but I think a 400 or 500 Hz
filter would be my 2nd filter (after the 2.7 or 2.8 decision).

My experience before the Elecraft K3 was with a series of up-converting 
ICOM

rigs including the 7800, whose narrowest roofing filter (after the roofing
filter upgrade) is 3 KHz.

I chose 8-pole filters at 2.8, 1.8, 1.0, 400, and 250. I probably have 
more

than I need for almost all situations.  Most of my QSOs don't tax the
capability of any current-generation radio, but when the situation is very
competitive I don't want to be in mid-contest or mid-pileup and at that 
time

wish I'd

RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I acquired the 250 Hz filter primarily because a very good RTTY specialist
friend (W0YK) recommended it for contest RTTY.  I haven't used it much.  But
I haven't often used the 250 Hz bandwidth on any radio.  My other radios had
uncompensated high filter loss with very narrow filters and I got into the
habit of getting narrow enough to remove the strongest interfering stations
and have tried to develop my aural discrimination capability for the rest. 

In CW contest run situations 250 Hz is much too narrow. In CW contest SP
situations I want to move quickly about and a narrow filter isn't well
suited to that.  Since most of my operation is CW contests, the 250 Hz
filter doesn't get much use.

Fortunately with DSP filtering I can dial in just the width I want for any
situation and don't have to guess ahead of time exactly the final
selectivity I will want.  The DSP does most of the work, and having a
corresponding width roofing filter (greatly) increases the capability of the
radio to deal with strong interference that is nearby. If the interfering
signal is within reasonable limits, the DSP alone can knock it down quite
well. Roofing filters show their value in situations where nearby
interfering signals are much stronger than the desired signal. The bands
during contests don't seem to be quite as full of thumps and crud with my K3
as they do with other, less capable equipment. During SP, I find myself
tuning more slowly as I pass already-worked strong CQing stations, because
weaker nearby desired stations are now more audible.

If I sequenced the filters I currently have in the order of perceived need,
I'd have this order:

2.8 KHz because you must use a 2.7 or 2.8 KHz filter for CW and SSB
transmission; it's the general purpose SSB filter and wide CW filter.
400 Hz for tight CW or data modes.
1 KHz because I do much more CW than SSB, and this is about my general CW
width (most of my operation is during CW contests)
1.8 KHz because having this narrow capability makes phone contesting much
more pleasant and I can stay longer with less fatigue. I also like this
filter for opened up CW contest run situations. When I dial 1.2 KHz
bandwidth for CW running, this is the roofing filter I get.
250 Hz for rarely-encountered severe CW conditions or as-yet-unexperienced
data mode needs.

Although I haven't seen this explored publicly too much, you can configure
the roofing filter crossover points at bandwidths that differ slightly from
the bandwidth printed on the filter.  If you study the available bandwidth
curves (or make curves of the filters you actually have), you can choose the
points at which the filters kick in.  If you think your 400 Hz filter is
really a 430 Hz filter, you might try configuring the K3 as if it had a 450
Hz filter, for example.  You'll need to configure the 2.7 or 2.8 KHz filter
as 2.70, 2.75, or 2.80, and don't fiddle with the widths of the AM or FM
filters, but the rest are fair game.

Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: David Yarnes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 6:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Jim Miller'; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

I think Dick has put together an excellent summary regarding the available 
filters.  I sure don't see much to contradict based on my experience.

I would mention one thing, however, and i'm curious if others are 
experiencing the same anomoly.  I opted for both the 400 hz and the 200 hz

filters (in addition to the 2.7 khz and 6 khz filters).  I am quite happy 
with the 400 hz filter.  Perhaps the 500 hz would have been sufficient, but 
I do like the 400 hz just fine.  My question is about the narrower 
filters--the 200 hz and the 250 hz.  I was almost certain I would use the 
narrow filter fairly often.  With other rigs I frequently found myself 
trying to 'tighten things down to eliminate QRM.  However, I find myself 
rarely needing to go down that far on the K3.  I probably haven't really 
given it the acid test, like Field Day, but it does surprise me that I 
tend to not even need something narrower.  I can only attribute that to the 
fact that the roofing filter system on the K3 is superior--that it does such

a good job compared to other receivers I don't have to fight QRM as much.

I'm not into the digital modes yet on any kind of serious basis, so maybe 
that will turn out to be where the narrower filter proves to be most useful.

I would also be inclined to endorse Dick's suggestion of a 1 khz filter for 
casual CW use.  I don't have one though, so I can't say for sure.  But I 
strongly suspect it would be more pleasant to use.  I like not having to go 
too narrow, but QRM usually forced me to do so.  But since these are roofing

filters, and not just crystal filters we usually rely on, I think QRM will 
still be minimized.  I am thinking seriously of ordering a 1 khz filter when

I get my 2nd receiver.  If it works like I think it might, I may do

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread WA6L


I can vouch that there is no reason to order both the 400 and 250 filters. 
When I first ordered my K3 on the phone, whomever I spoke with (and I can't
remember) convinced me that these two would be the best combination for CW
operation.

In reality, there is very little difference between the two filters and in
actual operation I don't see the need for the 250.  A better combination
would be the 1000 and 400.

When calling CQ, I like to keep the BW set to around 800 to capture those
signals that are not zero-beat.  Once in a QSO or contest exchange, I can
crank the BW down below 400 if needed.  At least with the way I operate, the
1000/400 combo makes more sense.

So, I plan to order the 1000 filter.  Anyone want a 250 filter at a good
discount?  Contact me offline.

73,

John, WA6L



Jim Miller-14 wrote:
 
 Thanks for bringing up the filter topic -
 
 This is one of my main questions now.  I finally ordered mine with no
 optional filters and plan on adding them to the order before ship BUT I do
 not know which will be the best for me.  I suppose the answer to that is
 that it will be different for everybody.  I do expect to add the second
 reciever board at some point, maybe not before initial ship.
 
 Some sub-topics:
 
 1) Is there any point in ordering the 200, 250, 400 and 500? Probably not.
 Somebody explain how the filters are selected by the radio and recommend a
 couple of reasonable configurations please.  I want to be able to run 
 PSK,
 RTTY, CW and SSB and mainly I want to not have to deal with nearby
 signals,
 I want them GONE.
 
 2) a. Why would you order a 2.8 when you get a 2.7 with the radio?
   b. Can you order the 2.8 instead of the standard 2.7 and receive some
 credit for the 2.7 you didn't want?
 
 3)  Will the 1.8 make the SSB hard to understand vs possibly the 2.1?  I
 almost ordered the 1.8 but wasn't sure so didn't order anything yet.
 
 4) What would be the best filter for RTTY?
 
 5) Which filter will be best for PSK?  A 6K filter or a 2.8 or narrower
 looking at just part of the band at a time?
 
 Pick one (or all) and give me your thoughts,
 
 THANKS,
 de Jim KG0KP (NewBee)
 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Ed Muns
Repeating what I've posted here previously, the first thing to get firmly in
mind about the K3 crystal filters is what their purpose is.  They are not
used to determine the bandwidth you are using on any mode.  (Yes, you need
the 2.7 or 2.8 for transmit on CW, RTTY and SSB.  The AM and FM filters for
transmit on those modes.)  Your receive bandwidth is determined by the DSP
filtering which is continually adjustable to any bandwidth you desire.  The
Icom 756Pro series radios are excellent performers and have a single 15kHz
crystal filter.  Narrower filtering is provided by the DSP just like the K3.

The purpose of the five easily-installable crystal filters in the K3 are to
pre-filter strong nearby signals so that the DSP can better do its excellent
job of the primary filtering.  INRAD makes add-on roofing filter kits for
many radios and now has a 4-5kHz roofing filter kit for the Icom 756Pro
series for those people who are mostly interested in CW, RTTY and/or SSB.
This is a great improvement over the stock 15kHz filter for contesting and
situations where there are lots of very strong close-in signals.

You don't need any additional crystal filters in the K3 beyond the stock
2.7kHz filter to listen to CW at a 600Hz or 350Hz or 200Hz or whatever
bandwidth.  Just dial in the width you want with the WIDTH, SHIFT, LO CUT
and/or HI CUT controls.  You only need to consider additional crystal
filters if you operate in conditions where strong signals close to your
operating frequency (inside the 2.7kHz filter) may deteriorate the excellent
filtering of the DSP with IMD and other interference.

Because my primary Ham radio activity is contesting, having crystal filters
right at the bandwidths I use for each mode is useful.  It is one of many
reasons why the K3 is my favorite contest radio.  But all these filters are
not needed by many K3 users.

- For SSB, my default bandwidth is 1.5kHz and that is saved as ALT-1 and as
my standard SSB bandwidth on all my band-mode memories.  Specifically, the
DSP filter is set at 300-1800kHz.  I'm currently using the 1.8kHz crystal
filter which is actually about 1.9kHz at the -6dB points.  

- For CW, my default bandwidth is 400Hz although I'd be just as happy at
500Hz.  It's just that I'm currently using the 400Hz crystal filters.  I
seldom go below that, but occasionally on 160 with heavy QRM I might go down
to 250 or 200Hz.

- For RTTY, my default bandwidth is 200Hz plus the Dual-Tone Filter of
additional cascaded 50Hz filters around each tone.  In theory, the bandwidth
for 170Hz-shift RTTY should be 250-300Hz, but I've found operationally that
200Hz works great in my RTTY contesting.

Note that the actual -6dB bandwidths of the 400Hz and 250Hz filters are
435Hz and 370Hz respectively.  You definitely don't need both of those
filters, although that's exactly what I personally have right now because I
failed to consider the actual bandwidths when making my initial selection.
Don't make that mistake.

Finally, you can set the point at which each crystal filter kicks in as the
DSP bandwidth is varied.  I set my trigger points per the -6db bandwidths of
the various filters, not the product name.  Thus, the 250Hz filter
switches in at 350Hz because its actual bandwidth is 370Hz.  Since I receive
RTTY at 200Hz DSP bandwidth, a better crystal filter for me in that mode
might be the 200Hz (225Hz actual) for maximum strong signal protection.

73,
Ed - W0YK

 Thanks for bringing up the filter topic -
 
 This is one of my main questions now.  I finally ordered mine 
 with no optional filters and plan on adding them to the order 
 before ship BUT I do not know which will be the best for me.  
 I suppose the answer to that is that it will be different for 
 everybody.  I do expect to add the second reciever board at 
 some point, maybe not before initial ship.
 
 Some sub-topics:
 
 1) Is there any point in ordering the 200, 250, 400 and 500? 
 Probably not.
 Somebody explain how the filters are selected by the radio 
 and recommend a couple of reasonable configurations please.  
 I want to be able to run  PSK, RTTY, CW and SSB and mainly I 
 want to not have to deal with nearby signals, I want them GONE.
 
 2) a. Why would you order a 2.8 when you get a 2.7 with the radio?
   b. Can you order the 2.8 instead of the standard 2.7 and 
 receive some
 credit for the 2.7 you didn't want?
 
 3)  Will the 1.8 make the SSB hard to understand vs possibly 
 the 2.1?  I almost ordered the 1.8 but wasn't sure so didn't 
 order anything yet.
 
 4) What would be the best filter for RTTY?
 
 5) Which filter will be best for PSK?  A 6K filter or a 2.8 
 or narrower looking at just part of the band at a time?

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
Thanks to all for the comments. (I am using a 2x 400Hz and 2x 250 Hz
Inrad combo in my MP for selectivity at this time, and a  wiide
roofing filter)

The subject is very interesting to me since I expect my K3 sometime in
June.


How about this one for the K3:
2.7 standard
2.1 8-pole  SSB contesting
500 5-pole  CW contest running
200 5-pole  CW SP especially 160m and 40m

The rationale: you don't need 8-pole since:
1. the interfering signals causing IMD don't have to be more than 20dB
down to stop the IMD.
2. If I use the DSP filtering, why add 8-pole filters if 1. applies
3. I read that the roofing filters can introduce IMD (because of steep
skirts or...? Is there a chance that 5-pole filters have less chance of
introducing IMD? Anybody can comment on this?)

I sure would like to hear the difference between 400 8-pole and 500
5-pole with fixed DSP bandwidth in a crowded strong signal band.

How about that?

73
Arie PA3A

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Bill Maddock
John,

I ordered the 500 hz and 250hz filters The 500
will be great for the casual stuff. When it
gets tough like the 160 mtr contest with signals
30 and 40 db over S9 all over that 250 will be
king. I have 2 TS-850S with inrad 400 hz - they
are ok but I assume that when my K3 arrives I
won't here the next guy blasting me off to the
side that much anymore. the 250 hz will defintely
have it's place. Likewise I hope that the 2.1
will work better than the 850S on SSB!

This will make my contesting so much more enjoyable!

73,

Bill N4ZI

--- WA6L [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 
 I can vouch that there is no reason to order both
 the 400 and 250 filters. 
 When I first ordered my K3 on the phone, whomever I
 spoke with (and I can't
 remember) convinced me that these two would be the
 best combination for CW
 operation.
 
 In reality, there is very little difference between
 the two filters and in
 actual operation I don't see the need for the 250. 
 A better combination
 would be the 1000 and 400.
 
 When calling CQ, I like to keep the BW set to around
 800 to capture those
 signals that are not zero-beat.  Once in a QSO or
 contest exchange, I can
 crank the BW down below 400 if needed.  At least
 with the way I operate, the
 1000/400 combo makes more sense.
 
 So, I plan to order the 1000 filter.  Anyone want a
 250 filter at a good
 discount?  Contact me offline.
 
 73,
 
 John, WA6L
 
 
 
 Jim Miller-14 wrote:
  
  Thanks for bringing up the filter topic -
  
  This is one of my main questions now.  I finally
 ordered mine with no
  optional filters and plan on adding them to the
 order before ship BUT I do
  not know which will be the best for me.  I suppose
 the answer to that is
  that it will be different for everybody.  I do
 expect to add the second
  reciever board at some point, maybe not before
 initial ship.
  
  Some sub-topics:
  
  1) Is there any point in ordering the 200, 250,
 400 and 500? Probably not.
  Somebody explain how the filters are selected by
 the radio and recommend a
  couple of reasonable configurations please.  I
 want to be able to run 
  PSK,
  RTTY, CW and SSB and mainly I want to not have to
 deal with nearby
  signals,
  I want them GONE.
  
  2) a. Why would you order a 2.8 when you get a 2.7
 with the radio?
b. Can you order the 2.8 instead of the standard
 2.7 and receive some
  credit for the 2.7 you didn't want?
  
  3)  Will the 1.8 make the SSB hard to understand
 vs possibly the 2.1?  I
  almost ordered the 1.8 but wasn't sure so didn't
 order anything yet.
  
  4) What would be the best filter for RTTY?
  
  5) Which filter will be best for PSK?  A 6K filter
 or a 2.8 or narrower
  looking at just part of the band at a time?
  
  Pick one (or all) and give me your thoughts,
  
  THANKS,
  de Jim KG0KP (NewBee)
  
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 - For RTTY, my default bandwidth is 200Hz plus the Dual-Tone 
 Filter of additional cascaded 50Hz filters around each tone.  
 In theory, the bandwidth for 170Hz-shift RTTY should be 
 250-300Hz, but I've found operationally that 200Hz works 
 great in my RTTY contesting.

The two 50 Hz filters spaced 170 Hz would have a total bandwidth 
of 230Hz.  This is very close to the published value of 224 Hz 
for the 5-pole filter (I intend to measure mine when it arrives 
later this week).  However, I wonder if it would not be useful 
to modify the 200 Hz filter - or for Elecraft to offer a real 
250 Hz filter using the values shown in the K3 schematic pack 
(page 7).  

Based on the published 224 Hz (and reports of 210 Hz) and 4:1 
shape factor a 250 Hz 5-pole filter would still offer much  
better performance between -6dB and - 30 dB than the 250 Hz 
8 pole filter but a real 250 Hz wide filter should be just 
enough wider to eliminate potential sharpening of the dual-
tone (DSP) filter. 

My filter choices - and I'll see if I guessed right in a week 
or so - were FM, 2.8 KHz, 500 Hz and 200 Hz.  I'm leaving the 
one slot open for 2.1, 1.8 or possibly a variable SSB filter 
if/when that is available.  The FM filter was chosen for general 
non-critical listening (including AM) as it is still narrower 
than the front end filter in any of the mid-grade up-conversion 
receivers.  I know I will want something between 2.8 and 500 Hz 
and suspect the 1.8 will fill the bill for general CW on a quiet 
band and for click on the waterfall PSK31 operation.  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Muns
 Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 2:33 PM
 To: 'Jim Miller'
 Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations
 
 
 Repeating what I've posted here previously, the first thing 
 to get firmly in mind about the K3 crystal filters is what 
 their purpose is.  They are not used to determine the 
 bandwidth you are using on any mode.  (Yes, you need the 2.7 
 or 2.8 for transmit on CW, RTTY and SSB.  The AM and FM 
 filters for transmit on those modes.)  Your receive bandwidth 
 is determined by the DSP filtering which is continually 
 adjustable to any bandwidth you desire.  The Icom 756Pro 
 series radios are excellent performers and have a single 
 15kHz crystal filter.  Narrower filtering is provided by the 
 DSP just like the K3.
 
 The purpose of the five easily-installable crystal filters in 
 the K3 are to pre-filter strong nearby signals so that the 
 DSP can better do its excellent job of the primary filtering. 
  INRAD makes add-on roofing filter kits for many radios and 
 now has a 4-5kHz roofing filter kit for the Icom 756Pro 
 series for those people who are mostly interested in CW, RTTY 
 and/or SSB. This is a great improvement over the stock 15kHz 
 filter for contesting and situations where there are lots of 
 very strong close-in signals.
 
 You don't need any additional crystal filters in the K3 
 beyond the stock 2.7kHz filter to listen to CW at a 600Hz or 
 350Hz or 200Hz or whatever bandwidth.  Just dial in the width 
 you want with the WIDTH, SHIFT, LO CUT and/or HI CUT 
 controls.  You only need to consider additional crystal 
 filters if you operate in conditions where strong signals 
 close to your operating frequency (inside the 2.7kHz filter) 
 may deteriorate the excellent filtering of the DSP with IMD 
 and other interference.
 
 Because my primary Ham radio activity is contesting, having 
 crystal filters right at the bandwidths I use for each mode 
 is useful.  It is one of many reasons why the K3 is my 
 favorite contest radio.  But all these filters are not needed 
 by many K3 users.
 
 - For SSB, my default bandwidth is 1.5kHz and that is saved 
 as ALT-1 and as my standard SSB bandwidth on all my band-mode 
 memories.  Specifically, the DSP filter is set at 
 300-1800kHz.  I'm currently using the 1.8kHz crystal filter 
 which is actually about 1.9kHz at the -6dB points.  
 
 - For CW, my default bandwidth is 400Hz although I'd be just 
 as happy at 500Hz.  It's just that I'm currently using the 
 400Hz crystal filters.  I seldom go below that, but 
 occasionally on 160 with heavy QRM I might go down to 250 or 200Hz.
 
 - For RTTY, my default bandwidth is 200Hz plus the Dual-Tone 
 Filter of additional cascaded 50Hz filters around each tone.  
 In theory, the bandwidth for 170Hz-shift RTTY should be 
 250-300Hz, but I've found operationally that 200Hz works 
 great in my RTTY contesting.
 
 Note that the actual -6dB bandwidths of the 400Hz and 
 250Hz filters are 435Hz and 370Hz respectively.  You 
 definitely don't need both of those filters, although that's 
 exactly what I personally have right now because I failed to 
 consider the actual bandwidths when making my initial 
 selection. Don't make that mistake.
 
 Finally, you can set the point at which each crystal

RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations

2008-04-01 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 1. the interfering signals causing IMD don't have to be more 
 than 20dB down to stop the IMD. 2. 

On the other hand the 2.8 KHz 8 pole filter is actually narrower 
than the 2.7 KHz 5 pole (2.888 KHz vs. 2910 KHz from previously 
published data) with significantly sharper skirts so the -30 dB 
widths are roughly 3.755 KHz for the 2.8 KHz filter vs. 5.675 KHz 
for the 2.7 KHz filter. 

 If I use the DSP filtering, why add 8-pole filters if 1. applies 
 3. I read that the roofing filters can introduce IMD (because of 
 steep skirts or...? Is there a chance that 5-pole filters have 
 less chance of introducing IMD? 

The signal level thorough the roofing filters is quite high.  With 
high signal levels, the crystals need to be exceptionally clean 
and well behaved.  Eric tells me that the 8 pole filters are 
specially selected by INRAD for low IMD characteristics (the lower 
grade filters go into FT-1000/FT-1000MPs).  Elecraft to a special 
burn in of their crystals before building the 5 pole filters. 
Still, the filter IMD (due to non-linearity in the crystals) may 
be up to 2 dB better with the 8 pole filters than with the 5 pole 
units. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 
 

 If I use the DSP 
 filtering, why add 8-pole filters if 1. applies 3. I read 
 that the roofing filters can introduce IMD (because of steep 
 skirts or...? Is there a chance that 5-pole filters have less 
 chance of introducing IMD? Anybody can comment on this?)



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Arie 
 Kleingeld PA3A
 Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:32 PM
 To: 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Configurations and Explanations
 
 
 Thanks to all for the comments. (I am using a 2x 400Hz and 2x 
 250 Hz Inrad combo in my MP for selectivity at this time, and 
 a  wiide roofing filter)
 
 The subject is very interesting to me since I expect my K3 
 sometime in June.
 
 
 How about this one for the K3:
 2.7 standard
 2.1 8-pole  SSB contesting
 500 5-pole  CW contest running
 200 5-pole  CW SP especially 160m and 40m
 
 The rationale: you don't need 8-pole since:
 1. the interfering signals causing IMD don't have to be more 
 than 20dB down to stop the IMD. 2. If I use the DSP 
 filtering, why add 8-pole filters if 1. applies 3. I read 
 that the roofing filters can introduce IMD (because of steep 
 skirts or...? Is there a chance that 5-pole filters have less 
 chance of introducing IMD? Anybody can comment on this?)
 
 I sure would like to hear the difference between 400 8-pole 
 and 500 5-pole with fixed DSP bandwidth in a crowded strong 
 signal band.
 
 How about that?
 
 73
 Arie PA3A
 
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