Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Mark Bayern

IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly.

I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them
out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length.

There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about
the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted
thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ...
certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the
only cave-man in the forum.

Mark   AD5SS
K/2  5340
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RE: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Darwin, Keith
Oh, yes, I remember.  That blasted bail!

We can buy pre-wound toroids - someone needs to sell a pre-mounted bail!

I think I put my bail in a vise and tried to squeeze it down a bit.  I
also used some of the longer screws to get things started then swapped
them out once it was together.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Bayern

IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly.

I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them
out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length.

There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the
tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing
installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ...
certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the
only cave-man in the forum.

Mark   AD5SS
K/2  5340
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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Tom Hammond

Jim:

The way I've successfully done it, and with NO(!) effort, is to 
install the feet/bail using much longer (say 1") screws... TIGHTEN 
things down and then, one at a time, replace the long screws with the 
proper ones.


Using the longer screws makes it very easy to get everything in place 
BEFORE you have to torque things down.


Of course, you'll have to supply your own (4) long screws, but it's 
certainly worth the effort.


73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 10:25 PM 5/24/2007, you wrote:

Hello All,
Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess)
a tilt bail.  Somehow I've gone from great design and
instructions to something that reminds me of putting
toys together at Xmas Eve.  Is this for real?  Can
anyone tell me the secret.  How many people does it
take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws?
 Not sure a cave man can do it.
Jim



Be 
a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who 
knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469

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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

Install the first foot and tighten it, and then either:
1) Install the second foot using 'builder provided' long screws - after 
things are lined up and tightened with the long screws, remove the long 
ones one at a time and replace them with the proper screws.
2) Use a clamp to compress the bail - compress only enough to permit the 
screws to be installed, the bail must remain 'springy' or it will be 
loose and rattle.


I use both methods - the clamp head takes a bit of 'figuring' so you can 
tighten the screws with the clamp attached, but you can combine both 
methods and make things easier.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Murray wrote:

Hello All,
Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess)
a tilt bail.  Somehow I've gone from great design and
instructions to something that reminds me of putting
toys together at Xmas Eve.  Is this for real?  Can
anyone tell me the secret.  How many people does it
take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws?
 Not sure a cave man can do it.
Jim

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RE: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Fred (FL)
VISE - that is the trick.  Just force some (SOME)
of the spring width out of the metal item.

It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small
amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to
make it wider again in a Vise.

Fred, N3CSY


   
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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fred,

I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail 
width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you).


I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail 
which will be 'floppy'.


Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily while installing 
the screws is OK, but permanently distorting the bail is not OK IMHO.


73,
Don W3FPR

Fred (FL) wrote:

VISE - that is the trick.  Just force some (SOME)
of the spring width out of the metal item.

It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small
amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to
make it wider again in a Vise.

Fred, N3CSY


   
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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Dale Boresz
One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those 
discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one 
bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it 
"tourniquet style" to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn 
together enough to allow it to be attached.


Or -- you could dispense with the bail altogether (as I did) and cobble 
together some taller 'feet' for the front of the radio so that the front 
sits up about an inch or a little more above the surface upon which it 
is resting. May not be too good for portable use, but for home use on a 
desktop it works very well.


73, Dale
WA8SRA
K2 #3039

Mark Bayern wrote:

IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly.

I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them
out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length.

There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about
the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted
thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ...
certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the
only cave-man in the forum.

Mark   AD5SS
K/2  5340



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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Gary D Krause

Hi Jim,

I just put mine together last weekend.  There is quite a bit of tension with 
the bail.  In fact, my aluminum plate is bowed slightly from trying to get the 
other end of the bail fastened.  It flattened when I attached it to the K2.


Gary, N7HTS


On Thu, 24 May 2007 20:25:58 -0700 (PDT)
 Jim Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hello All,
Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess)
a tilt bail.  Somehow I've gone from great design and
instructions to something that reminds me of putting
toys together at Xmas Eve.  Is this for real?  Can
anyone tell me the secret.  How many people does it
take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws?
Not sure a cave man can do it.
Jim


  
Be 
a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. 
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469

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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread Fred (FL)
To take a lead from my former ME associates back
at Kodak's CAD group - I think the Elecraft K2
bail, as designed, has too much K and is a tad
too long.  Decreasing length, ever so little in
a vise - makes the whole job and final installation
work nicely.  I think the idea of temporarily
decreasing width with a c-clamp and using LONG
screws, is wrong IMHO, as it places a permanent
spring force on the lower cabinet cover meterial
- which could cause whoknowswhat.  I can't 
imagine operating the bail, in that compression
configuration.

Bench vise adjustment - takes some mechanical
skill, but it works better after process
is done.  BAIL still operates perfectly.
Not rocket science .I suspect I decreased
bail's width, at ears, by like 1/4" (recall from
memory) 

Fred, N3CSY   K2 54xx


   
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Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag

2007-05-25 Thread w6jd


-- Original message -- 
From: Dale Boresz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those 
> discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one 
> bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it 
> "tourniquet style" to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn 
> together enough to allow it to be attached. 
> 
I found this technique to work beautifully, no pain no strain.
Doug, W6JD
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