Re: [Elecraft] K2 Low transmit power after shut down

2015-06-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mick,

You cannot properly troubleshoot a problem like that with too many 
variables involved.  In your case, you have the base K2, the KPA100 
(even when bypassed), your antenna tuner, and your antenna involved - 
the problem could be with any one of them.

The solution is to reduce that number down to one at a time.

One thing your lack of receive tells me is that you are likely looking 
for an intermittent connection somewhere.  The challenge is to find out 
where.


First, physically remove the KPA100 from the base K2 and set it aside.
Then connect the base K2 to a known good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load.

When that is done, see if you have good power output (the K2 display 
will be close to correct with the dummy load).  Check at a range of powers.
If it OK, then we can move on to the KPA100 for the next step - tell me 
that is the case and we can continue with that.


If the power output of the base K2 has problems (I presume it will have 
low power at some power setting), then set the power knob to 5 watts and 
proceed to make the measurements of RF voltage at the points shown in 
Appendix A page 14, starting midway down the left column.
Make the measurements in order.  If the RF voltages are *higher* than 
those listed, that is *not* a problem.
Tell us the first point where the RF voltages are substantially *lower* 
than that listed.  That is the output of the failing stage. We don't 
have to know the voltages at the prior stages, just the one that is 
lower than expected.
Once we have that information we can help you localize it to the failing 
component.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/28/2015 8:04 PM, Mick Hall wrote:

Hi

Working on my K2 with a long wire antenna and externalATU and my K2 shut down. 
Only working at 5 watts and an SWR of 2.1:1.
  
I didn’t smell anything initially so I powered it backup. At first I couldn’t hear anything on any band and slowly the sound cameback, which was a bit strange.


The lights on the ATU no longer indicated any output sostarted checking a bit 
more when I got a faint smell of fried component.

Before removing any covers I started checking basicthings. S meter stopped 
registering any received signals, although all bandscould be heard at normal 
levels.

The ATU can only handle 15 watts so I tested up to thisand found that when I 
dialled in up to 10 watts, It was indicating 0.5 watts. Icould hear the KPA100 
switch in at 11 watts but anything up to 15 watts showeda max of 6 watts.

I bypassed the KPA100 by powering it from the base K2power socket and the I had 
the same results.


  



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-10-04 Thread Brian Denley
?Don:
I am still trying to get my K2 kit to transmit.  Since my last post, I have 
purchased a power meter and confirmed that virtually no power comes out of 
the antenna jack when the transceiver is keyed (the meter barely moves on 
the 20 watt scale).  I also purchased a new RF probe kit and so far have the 
same dismal result:  the lowest voltage I can measure (probing nothing) is 
380 mV, and also 380mV when I attach the ground clip to the probe tip. 
Touching my finger to the probe tip gives no result as well.  This probe was 
built with new components from Elecraft, the diode is in the way the silk 
screen indicates (for the banded end). there is no other way to build it! 
The only idea I have is to take the probe into work and check it with a nice 
new Fluke meter with the idea that my 2 multimeters are just not suitable or 
have the wrong input impedance (needs to be ~10Megohms if I understand the 
probe circuit).  Without some way of measuring RF in the transmitter circuit 
I am just shooting in the dark.

I attempted to check Q24 but it's solder joints are placed right under the 
small SMT board that is mounted on the backside of the RF board and 
difficult to reach unless I remove that board.

Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
To: Brian Denley b.den...@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


  Brian,

 If there is nothing coming from the internal power detector, you will not 
 see deflection on the K2 bargraph when keying.
 It could be a K2 transmit problem or it can be a problem in the RF 
 detector.  Hard to tell which without further measurements.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-10-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Did you use coax for the lead from the RF Probe to your DMM?  Behavior 
like that indicates noise pickup after the detector diode - RF? Magnetic 
coupling?  It is really difficult to say what, you will have to examine 
your environment as well as your meter.

Yes, unless you can get the stray pickup (from whatever source) out of 
your DMM, you will have a difficult time doing any transmit signal tracing.

Hint - take your DMM into work with you and do a 1 to 1 comparison in 
the same environment with another meter.  If there is noise pickup on 
your meter at home, but not at your work location, having your DMM with 
you at work will reveal that condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/4/2010 10:18 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 ?Don:
 I am still trying to get my K2 kit to transmit.  Since my last post, I have
 purchased a power meter and confirmed that virtually no power comes out of
 the antenna jack when the transceiver is keyed (the meter barely moves on
 the 20 watt scale).  I also purchased a new RF probe kit and so far have the
 same dismal result:  the lowest voltage I can measure (probing nothing) is
 380 mV, and also 380mV when I attach the ground clip to the probe tip.
 Touching my finger to the probe tip gives no result as well.  This probe was
 built with new components from Elecraft, the diode is in the way the silk
 screen indicates (for the banded end). there is no other way to build it!
 The only idea I have is to take the probe into work and check it with a nice
 new Fluke meter with the idea that my 2 multimeters are just not suitable or
 have the wrong input impedance (needs to be ~10Megohms if I understand the
 probe circuit).  Without some way of measuring RF in the transmitter circuit
 I am just shooting in the dark.

 I attempted to check Q24 but it's solder joints are placed right under the
 small SMT board that is mounted on the backside of the RF board and
 difficult to reach unless I remove that board.

 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-10-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  For getting to Q24 leads, yes the SMT diode gets in the way, but I 
have found that most builders have left the leads long enough to bend 
the board assembly up enough to allow access to the Q24 leads.  That may 
or may not be the case with your construction, but I mention it just in 
case.  Unsoldering one lead to swing it out of the way is not a big deal 
either.  My preference is to unsolder the lead from the RF board 
(leaving it attached to the small board) - it is easier to re-install 
the diode that way.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/4/2010 10:18 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

 I attempted to check Q24 but it's solder joints are placed right under the
 small SMT board that is mounted on the backside of the RF board and
 difficult to reach unless I remove that board.

 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Yes, Elecraft has a repair service.
If you contact sa...@elecraft.com, you should be able to obtain the 
necessary forms and an RSA number.
If they ask you if you have tried contacting support, you can try 
telling them that you have been working with my suggestions.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2010 10:26 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 ?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit.
 Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going
 into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board
 transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF
 probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the
 T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place
 but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those
 issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I
 have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
 Thanks
 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


 - Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Brian Denleyb.den...@comcast.net
 Cc: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was
 able
 to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I
 have
 divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
 (all measurments Keydown)

 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 voltsthis
 is
 HIGH

 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this seems
 LOW
 7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV
 8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is
 VERY LOW
 9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV   this
 seems HIGH
 10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this
 seems HIGH
 11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY
 LOW
 on my own I also measured:
 12.)base of Q5:43 mV
 13.)out of C10743 mV
 all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

DON'T DO THAT!
If the K2 is developing any power, it will not do it for long without a 
50 ohm dummy load.  The PA transistors can go poof in a hurry when 
operated into an open circuit - yes, the small antenna wire is an open 
circuit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2010 10:39 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 ?I should add:  If I connect a small wire to my K2 antenna and press tune,
 it shows a strong signal on any of my receivers at that frequency.  So
 somethings coming out of the K2.  Either the ouput signal is low OR the K2
 RF detector just doesn't measure it correctly for the ALC circuit.
 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


 - Original Message -
 From: Brian Denleyb.den...@comcast.net
 To:d...@w3fpr.com
 Cc: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 10:26 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 ?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit.
 Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going
 into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board
 transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF
 probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the
 T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place
 but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those
 issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I
 have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
 Thanks
 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


 - Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Brian Denleyb.den...@comcast.net
 Cc: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was
 able
 to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I
 have
 divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
 (all measurments Keydown)

 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 volts
 this
 is
 HIGH

 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this
 seems
 LOW
 7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV
 8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is
 VERY LOW
 9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV
 this
 seems HIGH
 10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this
 seems HIGH
 11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY
 LOW
 on my own I also measured:
 12.)base of Q5:43 mV
 13.)out of C10743 mV
 all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-19 Thread Brian Denley
?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit. 
Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going 
into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board 
transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF 
probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the 
T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place 
but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those 
issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I 
have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
Thanks
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Brian Denley b.den...@comcast.net
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was 
 able
 to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I 
 have
 divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
 (all measurments Keydown)

 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 voltsthis 
 is
 HIGH

 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this seems
 LOW

7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV

8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is 
VERY LOW

9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV   this 
seems HIGH

10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this 
seems HIGH

11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY 
LOW

on my own I also measured:

12.)base of Q5:43 mV

13.)out of C10743 mV

all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-19 Thread Brian Denley
?I should add:  If I connect a small wire to my K2 antenna and press tune, 
it shows a strong signal on any of my receivers at that frequency.  So 
somethings coming out of the K2.  Either the ouput signal is low OR the K2 
RF detector just doesn't measure it correctly for the ALC circuit.
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: Brian Denley b.den...@comcast.net
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 ?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit.
 Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going
 into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board
 transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF
 probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the
 T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place
 but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those
 issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I
 have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
 Thanks
 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Brian Denley b.den...@comcast.net
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


 On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was
 able
 to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I
 have
 divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
 (all measurments Keydown)

 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 volts 
 this
 is
 HIGH

 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this 
 seems
 LOW

7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV

8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is
VERY LOW

9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV 
this
seems HIGH

10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this
seems HIGH

11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY
LOW

on my own I also measured:

12.)base of Q5:43 mV

13.)out of C10743 mV

all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal

 __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-07 Thread Brian Denley
Don:
I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was able 
to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I have 
divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
(all measurments Keydown)

1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 voltsthis is 
HIGH

2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this seems 
LOW

7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV

8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is 
VERY LOW

9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV   this 
seems HIGH

10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this 
seems HIGH

11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY LOW

on my own I also measured:

12.)base of Q5:43 mV

13.)out of C10743 mV

all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal

Anything look new?

Thanks for any help!!
Brian

http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Brian Denley b.den...@comcast.net
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


  Brian,

 Since you are unable to measure any RF voltage, I am going to start at the 
 beginning - proper assembly of the RF Probe.

 The RF probe voltage is not read across the 4.7 meg resistor, it is read 
 between the end of the 4.7 meg resistor and ground.  That is an important 
 difference.  In other words, the 4.7 megohm resistor is in series with the 
 detector.  Since the nominal input resistance of a DMM is 11 megohms 
 (established in the old days of VTVMs), that resistance in series with 
 the 11 megohms will cause the DMM to indicate the RMS value of the RF 
 voltage being measured.  There are other techniques that will provide DMM 
 readings that indicate the zero to peak RF voltage, but the RF probe parts 
 provided with the K2 will indicate the RMS voltage values when used with 
 most DMMs.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

VPWR is high because there is not enough output being sensed by the RF 
detector, and the K2 firmware is telling the control circuit to add 
more power.
With that fact in mind, there does not seem to be sufficient RF voltage 
at the Xmit Mixer Output, and the other points beyond it as well - but 
we will come back to those at a later time if necessary.

You are correct that the Pre-driver output is the first point 
significantly lower than the expected value (and all measurements beyond 
that add no further value at this time), so the Q5 circuit is the one to 
investigate.  I would suggest temporarily removing T3 to remove the 12 
volts from Q7 and Q8 and gives you the ability to safely make 
measurements without the heat sink installed (Do NOT transmit with the 
heat sink removed and 12 volts connected to the collectors of Q7 and Q8 
- the PA transistors will fry quickly).

The first thing would be to make DC measurements at Q5 and compare with 
the chart in the manual.  If nothing looks awry with those measurements, 
then look at the schematic and find all components in the Q5 stage - 
examine each one for proper values, good soldering - even to the point 
of arbitrarily re-flowing the solder with a hot soldering iron (750 
deg/F).  Add a wee bit of solder during the re-flow process to add some 
additional flux.  If there is a blob of solder on any connections 
already, wick the excess away and then resolder with a smaller amount.

Most new build problems turn out to be soldering problems, followed by 
toroid lead tinning and by component mis-placement.  Those components 
jump out of their proper holes and get soldered into the wrong places :-) .

73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was able
 to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I have
 divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
 (all measurments Keydown)

 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 voltsthis is
 HIGH

 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV

 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV

 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV

 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV

 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this seems
 LOW

__
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Since you are unable to measure any RF voltage, I am going to start at 
the beginning - proper assembly of the RF Probe.

The RF probe voltage is not read across the 4.7 meg resistor, it is 
read between the end of the 4.7 meg resistor and ground.  That is an 
important difference.  In other words, the 4.7 megohm resistor is in 
series with the detector.  Since the nominal input resistance of a DMM 
is 11 megohms (established in the old days of VTVMs), that resistance 
in series with the 11 megohms will cause the DMM to indicate the RMS 
value of the RF voltage being measured.  There are other techniques that 
will provide DMM readings that indicate the zero to peak RF voltage, but 
the RF probe parts provided with the K2 will indicate the RMS voltage 
values when used with most DMMs.

The RF Probe parts and board that were provided with your K2 kit should 
give you the correct connections and RF voltage readings.  The TIP 
should connect to whatever wire you choose to use for the probe tip - I 
suggest one of the heavy diode leads so it is physically sturdy enough 
to be pressed onto the point to be measured.  The ground wire (with the 
alligator clip) should connect to the ground symbol point near the tip 
with a 4 to 6 inch wire and the alligator clip on the far end.  The coax 
should be connected as indicated on the board silkscreen - the shield to 
ground and the center conductor connects to the end of the 4.7 ohm 
resistor (follow the PC trace on the board).  At the far end of the 
coax, the red banana plug connects to the center conductor of the coax 
and the shield connects to the black - you should use a 4 inch length of 
wire between the shield and the black banana plug.  The schematic on 
page 9 of Appendix E shows which is connected to what.
The banana plugs connect to your DMM, and the DMM will read the RMS 
value of a sinewave that is probed by the tip (the alligator clip must 
be connected to one of the ground loops that you should have installed 
on your K2 RF board).

I cannot discern from you postings whether you have things set up 
correctly to measure RF voltages correctly or not.  An oscilloscope can 
be used in place of the RF Probe, but it must be used with a 10X probe 
(the voltage readings must be corrected for the 10 times attenuation of 
the probe), and the expected values listed in the manual must be 
massaged because the 'scope will show you peak to peak voltages which 
are 2.8 times the RMS values listed in the manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/6/2010 10:28 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 I am officially stumped.  I cannot find the fault in my transmit circuit but
 that is basically do to my inability to accurately measure ANY RF voltage.
 The RF probe doesn't seem to function.  I have replaced the resistor and
 resoldered all the connections twice now but I continue to read betwen 50
 and 70 mV with any handheld DMM and basically nothing with an HP3478A,  I am
 using the DC volt setting.  And all that 50 to 70 mV is across the 4.7Mohm
 resistor on the probe board.  This reading masks almost anything I am trying
 to measure and without that capability, I am at a loss trying to trouble
 shoot the transceiver.  Connecting the ground lead to the probe still leaves
 me with the same reading.

 Is there any other instrument that I can buy or borrow that will accurately
 measure small RF voltages?  Can I buy a working RF probe from  Elecraft?
 Are there only certain DMMs that it will work with?

 Again, the receiver section and the panel and control functions work just
 fine but I only get about 0.5 mW on the readout with keydown.
 Brian Denley
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

 Brian,

 Yes, I am sure about the 4.7 Megohms, but your 4.6 meg resistor will do
 just as well.
 It is DC voltage through the resistor, and it scales the peak RF voltage
 down to approximate RMS.
 Look at the schematic for the RF Probe on page 9 of Appendix E in the K2
 manual.
 With the RF Probe, you will be able to measure RF voltages down into the
 millivolt region.
 Go through the steps listed in Appendix E of the manual under Transmit
 Signal Tracing.
 When you get to the points to measure on page 14 (assuming you do not
 find a problem with the VFO or BFO), the RF voltages will be HIGHER than
 the expected value because you do not have enough transmit output.  What
 you are looking for is the first point where the RF voltage is LOWER
 than the expected value.  That point is just beyond the failing stage,
 and you will know which stage to examine in detail.
 Only after your K2 is operating properly for RF output will you see the
 expected values - go with the higher or lower criteria.
 Don
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-09-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Are you certain you have nor swapped the collector and emitter voltages 
for Q11?  Refer to the Schematic Key page for the proper leads - be 
certain you are keep the device orientation correct.

Yes, the DC voltages on Q5 seem to be correct, but your prior RF 
voltages say that the Q5 stage is not working properly.  Check all the 
components in the Q5 stage, including T1.  Check the leads of T1 
carefully.  If you can see a circle around any lead, the solder did not 
adhere properly due to an improperly tinned lead.  If there is evidence 
of that condition, you will have to remove T1 and re-tin the leads.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/1/2010 10:57 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 The Key Down voltages on Q5 were completely normal:
 E: 0.547 V
 B: 1.274 V
 C: 10.26  (12.0 volt power supply)

 I also checked the voltages  from D1 through Q11 (page 17 or Appendix
 F) and they are vall OK except that the base voltages from Q6, Q7 and
 Q8  are close to zero when they should read 1.1, 0.6 and 0.6 Volts
 respectively.

 It seems Q5 is working OK but how do I know any signal is comping into
 that amplifier?

 The only oddity I have run into is that I read the opposite voltages
 for Q11 than the manula states i.e I got:
 E: 1.2 V
 B: 0.6 V
 C: 0
 This was with key down.
 I have stared at the device again and again to see if I am reading it
 backwards but I cannot find my error so far.

 Thanks for any help.
 Brian
 http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

2010-08-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

On your RF Probe, that 200 mV is noise pickup.  Do you have a relatively 
short ground wire (4 to 6 inches) with the alligator clip connected to 
the board near the tip?  That alligator clip should connect to one of 
the ground loops you installed on the K2 boards.  A short grounding wire 
like that should reduce the noise pickup level - if it does not, check 
the soldering.  The DMM reading should go to a very low millivolt level 
when the ground wire and the tip are connected together.

If you have a 'scope, it will give you good readings if you use a 10X 
probe and both the probe and 'scope have adequate frequency ratings for 
the frequency in use.  In general, a 'scope and probe can be used for 
reliable amplitude measurement if their frequency rating is 5 times the 
frequency of the signal.  It is still usable above that frequency for 
relative RF voltage measurements.  Remember that the 'scope will display 
the peak to peak amplitude (the RF Probe will indicate RMS values), so 
multiply the 'expected' voltages in the manual by 2.8 to obtain the 
corresponding peak to peak amplitude.

Regarding the DC voltage at CB U8 pin 2, read the entire paragraph 
carefully. it is high because your K2 power output is lower than the 
requested value (reason a of the two reasons listed). Since you have 
checked the RF Detector, go to the end of the paragraph and do what it 
says If you can't find a problem with the RF Detector, continue with 
the next signal tracing section (transmit mixer, etc).

Check the Transmit stages in the order listed - if the stage is working, 
the RF Voltage will be HIGHER than the expected value listed (that stage 
is trying to drive harder to increase the power output).
When you come to the stage where the RF Voltage is significantly lower 
than the expected value, that is the output of the stage with the 
problem - stop and analyze that stage - Do the DC Voltage measurements 
associated with that stage, then move on to the schematic armed with 
that voltage information and see which component is likely to cause that 
problem.  Hint:  it is usually NOT the transistor.

That process is consistent with the 3 steps for any generalized 
troubleshooting process.
1) Find the failing stage.
2) Make measurements of that stage
3) Analyze the circuit to determine what is causing abnormalities in the 
measurements.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2010 11:41 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 I have built the RF probe but I am unable to get any signal less than about
 200 mV even when not touching anything.  I have tried three DMMMs with no
 better luck.   I do know that I am transmitting something because I can pick
 up the transceiver signal easily on any of my HF receivers.  I have been
 able to establish that pin 2 of U8 on the Control Board reads 5.0 volts key
 down and that means (according to page 14) that I should check the
 components around the RF detector...and I will as soon as I can find a way
 sense RF.  Maybe I will switch to the scope tomorrow and try that.  Any
 other ideas will be welcome.

 BTW, I have checked the RF detector again and again.  It's a pretty simple
 circuit and the diode is oriented correctly.

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