Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

2011-02-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
David, I was over simplifying when I said voltage. Voltage is important
but current plays a huge role too. 

My DMM's (4 of them, one a Fluke) produce less than 0.6V except on the
lowest resistance range. On the highest resistance ranges the voltage is 0.2
V or a bit less. On the lowest resistance range, the voltage increases to
over a volt, but it's current limited to less than 1 mA.

That's where the d'Arsonval meter movements have trouble. Even the venerable
Simpsons need more current to operate the meter mechanism than is safe for
the circuit under test with most modern electronics. 

Junctions will start to turn on at somewhere between 0.2 and 0.6 VDC,
depending upon the silicon material used. That's why the readings can be
changed greatly by the orientation of the test leads. 

Ron AC7AC 


-Original Message-
From: David Christ [mailto:radio...@mchsi.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 2:15 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

What is the maximum safe voltage?  It must be less than 1.5 v as that 
is what the Simpson and Triplett VOMs use in their lower ranges, but 
how much less?

David K0LUM

At 3:47 PM -0800 2/20/11, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM (like the old Simpsons, etc. -
just about anything with a wiggly needle meter ;-)  All of the older
meters applied a dangerous amount of voltage to the circuit for today's
solid state components

Good luck!

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

2011-02-21 Thread David Christ
What is the maximum safe voltage?  It must be less than 1.5 v as that 
is what the Simpson and Triplett VOMs use in their lower ranges, but 
how much less?

David K0LUM

At 3:47 PM -0800 2/20/11, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM (like the old Simpsons, etc. -
just about anything with a wiggly needle meter ;-)  All of the older
meters applied a dangerous amount of voltage to the circuit for today's
solid state components

Good luck!

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

2011-02-21 Thread Don Wilhelm
  David,

If the voltage is over 0.6 volts, and is applied to the base of a 
transistor (assuming the emitter is grounded), the transistor will 
conduct.  So my answer it less than 0.6 volts.  OTOH, if the voltage is 
less than 0.3 volts, you will not be able to make diode forward 
conduction tests with the ohmmeter (those meters will usually have a 
diode test setting).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/21/2011 5:15 PM, David Christ wrote:
 What is the maximum safe voltage?  It must be less than 1.5 v as that
 is what the Simpson and Triplett VOMs use in their lower ranges, but
 how much less?

 David K0LUM

 At 3:47 PM -0800 2/20/11, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM (like the old Simpsons, etc. -
 just about anything with a wiggly needle meter ;-)  All of the older
 meters applied a dangerous amount of voltage to the circuit for today's
 solid state components

 Good luck!

 Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

2011-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Al,

The first thing to try is reversing your meter leads.  Often ohmmeters 
use a higher voltage which can make some solid state devices conduct.

Is the Control Board plugged into the RF Board?  If so, remove it and 
remeasure.

Is U8 oriented correctly?  How about Q18 and Q19?
Check the values of R15 (33 ohms) and R9 (100k ohms)

If it still is low, tell us what you found with those checks and ask again.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2011 5:37 PM, Al Gold wrote:
 Hi All,

 I have a partially built K2 circa serial number 5000 and have completed
 Assembly Stage II of the RF Board.  All of the resistance numbers are fine
 with the exception of U6 Pin 8 which reads 42.5 ohms and should be greater
 than  100 ohms.  I have checked everything on the board visually for two
 days and checked the resistances of the resistors to no avail.  No shorts,
 no cold solder joints, no unsoldered pins.  I have seen in the archives
 where many people have had this same problem, but I have not found one with
 an actual solution to the problem.  If there is anyone out there that has
 fixed their resistance problem on U6 can you please let me know what your
 solution was.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

2011-02-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Al, first check the resistance with your DMM leads reversed. Some DMMs apply
enough voltage that gates in the i.c.s start to conduct, giving you an
abnormally low reading.

I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM (like the old Simpsons, etc. -
just about anything with a wiggly needle meter ;-)  All of the older
meters applied a dangerous amount of voltage to the circuit for today's
solid state components. If you have access to a second DMM, try it and see
what it says. 
Finally set your DMM for a fixed range that will let you see 100 Ohms rather
than allowing it to auto-range. The amount of voltage applied to the
circuit varies with the range and that can produce strange results with some
DMMs. 

U6 pin 8 on the RF board tests the 8V power bus for shorts. If you get the
same results after reversing your DMM leads or (if possible) using another
DMM, it's time to look for mistakes. That bus comes from voltage regulator
U8 and serves Op Amp U6 (where you are checking), the VFO and the thermister
board (see the schematic in your book K2 RF Board sheet 1 in Appendix A). It
also passes through a choke to become bus 8A but that goes directly off the
Control Board via J7, and at this point the Control Board should not be
plugged in. Check for any problem (solder bridge, etc.) at the J7 connection
to the board. 

Hopefully this will get you launched in the right direction. Our resident
Guru who has built and serviced countless K2's is probably contesting or
recuperating. I'm sure he'll pop up soon if you have more questions. I and
many other solder jockeys here will be glad to fill in as best we can. 

Good luck!

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Al Gold
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 2:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board Resistance Checks

Hi All,

I have a partially built K2 circa serial number 5000 and have completed
Assembly Stage II of the RF Board.  All of the resistance numbers are fine
with the exception of U6 Pin 8 which reads 42.5 ohms and should be greater
than  100 ohms.  I have checked everything on the board visually for two
days and checked the resistances of the resistors to no avail.  No shorts,
no cold solder joints, no unsoldered pins.  I have seen in the archives
where many people have had this same problem, but I have not found one with
an actual solution to the problem.  If there is anyone out there that has
fixed their resistance problem on U6 can you please let me know what your
solution was.

Thanks and 73's,

Allan KB1CLB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board resistance checks - not in spec

2010-05-24 Thread Steve KC8QVO

I also found pins 29 and 30 (dot/dash) on U6 on the Control Board to have
higher than spec resistance, 96.7k and 96.5k respectively. They should be
70-90k. 

Weird. 

Steve, KC8QVO 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Board resistance checks - not in spec

2010-05-23 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

Those resistance readings are too low, and you will have to find the cause.
What I believe is happening is that the low resistance on the paddle 
connections is triggering the circuits to go into a transmit state - and 
if that happens, the buttons do not work nor will the encoder change 
frequency.

Do you have anything plugged into the key jack?  If so, remove it and 
remeasure.
Did you make the measurement after the RF Board and the Control Board 
had been connected?  If so, then those readings are intended to be done 
on the RF Board alone.
If still low, check for solder bridges - check RF Board J8 pins 17 and 
18 carefully.  If there is a large deposit of solder, wich away the excess.
As a last resort, lift one end of R1 and R2 and remeasure the resistance 
both at the key jack and at J8 pins 17 and 18 - both should be greater 
than 1 megohm.  If the key jack is low, you may have a defective key 
jack, but if J8 pins 17 and 18 are low, you have a short to another 
circuit somewhere.  Again, examine the soldering carefully.  Solder 
sufficient to only fill the thru-plated hole is all that is necessary.  
If you have a pile of solder much more than that, wick most all of it 
away, it is certain to cause trouble.

Please understand that I have no idea at this time about your soldering 
skills (no insult intended), but too much solder and not enough heat are 
common builder problems - the solder must flow out onto the solder pad 
and the lead, and excess solder will mask a bad connection.  Adjust the 
soldering station temperature so you can produce a good flow of molten 
solder in 2 to 3 seconds.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steve KC8QVO wrote:
 Here are my out-of-spec measurements. Any ideas?
 R1 = 96.4k
 R2 = 96.5k

 Both should be 1M. Everthing else in the list checks out (well above the
 lower spec limit). 

 At this point the rig powers up and gives me the 201 message, switches to
 ELECrAFt, then 7100.00c but the buttons and knobs don't work (the next step
 is to push the display button to see what the voltage reading is, switch
 back to VFO, and spin the VFO knob to observe the frequency change - neither
 the display button or the VFO knob do anything). 

 Steve, KC8QVO
   
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