Re: [Emc-users] 3D printed CNC conversion for Sieg X2

2018-02-11 Thread Gene Heskett 
On Sunday 11 February 2018 20:44:53 Cecil Thomas wrote:

> Gene,
> Although they are often called "thread protectors" , I prefer to call
> them adapter pushers.
> I have found that their most important function is to be installed
> BEFORE the collet adapter and to be used by turning CCW to push
> against the collet adapter to remove it.  Otherwise you will need to
> use a knockout bar to pound the 5MT to 5C adapter out of the
> spindle.  I have made them in steel and aluminum for different
> machines and I find no reason to not use aluminum. 

The one you made for that lathe I bought is plastic pipe with a brass 
hammer inlaid in the end, works rather well.  As does the drawbar once I 
had finished it by putting a wheel and some needle thrust bearings on 
it.

> If you do use 
> plastic be sure that it is strong enough to withstand a bunch of
> torque with a spanner in pushing out the adapter.
> In order for it to work the adapter needs to have a "step" in it
> which the pusher can push against.  If the hole in the pusher is just
> a clearance fit over the adapter then a snapring in a slot will
> provide the surface to push against.
>
> Cecil
>
> At 07:29 AM 2/11/2018, you wrote:
> >Another reason to get one of those 3d printer things is that I don't
> > have a thread protector for the 2.25x8 spindle on my Sheldon. I've
> > considered making one out of alu, but putting that in contact with
> > alu doesn't seem like a Good Thing. I saw a you-tube video where
> > someone made one out of pla for a smaller 6" craftsman, and
> > expanding that for the 2.25" seems
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 3D printed CNC conversion for Sieg X2

2018-02-11 Thread Cecil Thomas 

Gene,
Although they are often called "thread protectors" , I prefer to call 
them adapter pushers.
I have found that their most important function is to be installed 
BEFORE the collet adapter and to be used by turning CCW to push 
against the collet adapter to remove it.  Otherwise you will need to 
use a knockout bar to pound the 5MT to 5C adapter out of the 
spindle.  I have made them in steel and aluminum for different 
machines and I find no reason to not use aluminum.   If you do use 
plastic be sure that it is strong enough to withstand a bunch of 
torque with a spanner in pushing out the adapter.
In order for it to work the adapter needs to have a "step" in it 
which the pusher can push against.  If the hole in the pusher is just 
a clearance fit over the adapter then a snapring in a slot will 
provide the surface to push against.


Cecil

At 07:29 AM 2/11/2018, you wrote:

Another reason to get one of those 3d printer things is that I don't have
a thread protector for the 2.25x8 spindle on my Sheldon. I've considered
making one out of alu, but putting that in contact with alu doesn't seem
like a Good Thing. I saw a you-tube video where someone made one out of
pla for a smaller 6" craftsman, and expanding that for the 2.25" seems



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Re: [Emc-users] 3D printed CNC conversion for Sieg X2

2018-02-11 Thread Marcus Bowman 

On 11 Feb 2018, at 12:29, Gene Heskett wrote:
> 
> Another reason to get one of those 3d printer things is that I don't have 
> a thread protector for the 2.25x8 spindle on my Sheldon. I've considered 
> making one out of alu, but putting that in contact with alu doesn't seem 
> like a Good Thing. I saw a you-tube video where someone made one out of 
> pla for a smaller 6" craftsman, and expanding that for the 2.25" seems 
> like a good idea.  And it wouldn't take a huge printer to do that. 
> Complete with some pretty aggressive  knurling to get a good hand grip 
> on it. 
> 

There was an article on a similar nose protector for a different lathe, 
recently, in one of the magazines. I have a pukka manufacturer nose protector 
for my lathe, as part of a collet set, but the plastic would be gentler on the 
threads. And a good excuse for a 3D printer, too.

Marcus



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Re: [Emc-users] 3D printed CNC conversion for Sieg X2

2018-02-11 Thread Gene Heskett 
On Sunday 11 February 2018 03:01:58 Chris Albertson wrote:

> This is astounding that it apparently works just fine.
>
> It is a 3D printed  part that adapts a stepper motor directly to a
> Sieg X2 mill.  Just one part is required for the X and one part for
> the Y.  It will require 127 grams of PLA plastic which costs $2.47  My
> printer will take 9 hours to make this.  If I start printing right now
> it will be finished in the morning.
>
> The question everyone asks is if this will work well enough to make a
> copy of itself in aluminum.  I don't know but I think you would need a
> four axis setup to make this in metal.  And the mill would have to
> remove $100 worth of chips.   A better way is to use "lost plastic"
> casting and pour aluminum in then machine the working surfaces flat.  
> But maybe no need as I've been told the weak link is the lead screw,
> not the plastic.
>
> In any case I'm now spoiled by my printer's ability to make complex
> rounded organic shapes.  CAD software makes drawing these shapes very
> easy.  I'm going to have to learn to cast metal.
>
> Even if CNC is not wanted, this has to be the easiest way to add the
> X-axis power feed.
>
> In any case making milling machine parts with plastic is such an
> outlandish idea that i am going to have to try this.  Not much to
> loose with price of price of plastic at 2 cents per gram.
>
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2446297

Looks good Chris. Its been close to 20 years ago when I put the LMS big 
table kit on mine, made some sliding fins type couplings, put some ball 
thrust washers into the handle bearing bosses, and a pair of teeny ball 
screws in my first HF micro-mill. I made a motor mount flange out of 
1/8" plate, and made some steel standoffs to space the motors out to 
make room for the couplings. Shade tree mechanics for sure, but its 
still working fine yet in 2018. Now the z drive on that is a different 
critter, but its working fine too.

Another reason to get one of those 3d printer things is that I don't have 
a thread protector for the 2.25x8 spindle on my Sheldon. I've considered 
making one out of alu, but putting that in contact with alu doesn't seem 
like a Good Thing. I saw a you-tube video where someone made one out of 
pla for a smaller 6" craftsman, and expanding that for the 2.25" seems 
like a good idea.  And it wouldn't take a huge printer to do that. 
Complete with some pretty aggressive  knurling to get a good hand grip 
on it. 

I'm impressed, but I need to make the rock64 run that Sheldon first.


-- 
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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[Emc-users] 3D printed CNC conversion for Sieg X2

2018-02-11 Thread Chris Albertson 
This is astounding that it apparently works just fine.

It is a 3D printed  part that adapts a stepper motor directly to a Sieg X2
mill.  Just one part is required for the X and one part for the Y.  It will
require 127 grams of PLA plastic which costs $2.47  My printer will take 9
hours to make this.  If I start printing right now it will be finished in
the morning.

The question everyone asks is if this will work well enough to make a copy
of itself in aluminum.  I don't know but I think you would need a four axis
setup to make this in metal.  And the mill would have to remove $100 worth
of chips.   A better way is to use "lost plastic" casting and pour aluminum
in then machine the working surfaces flat.   But maybe no need as I've been
told the weak link is the lead screw, not the plastic.

In any case I'm now spoiled by my printer's ability to make complex rounded
organic shapes.  CAD software makes drawing these shapes very easy.  I'm
going to have to learn to cast metal.

Even if CNC is not wanted, this has to be the easiest way to add the X-axis
power feed.

In any case making milling machine parts with plastic is such an outlandish
idea that i am going to have to try this.  Not much to loose with price of
price of plastic at 2 cents per gram.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2446297

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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