Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 January 2013 17:02, Jason Burton lathebuil...@gmail.com wrote:
 How about silver brazing key stubs onto the inner and outer faces of a
 sleeve?

In the end, I did this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1rMJccMQo6Q9Vfxi0Fq33tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
ie, I made a whole new arbor specifically for the job.

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-05 Thread Jason Burton
On Sat, Jan 5, 2013 at 1:59 PM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 5 January 2013 17:02, Jason Burton lathebuil...@gmail.com wrote:
  How about silver brazing key stubs onto the inner and outer faces of a
  sleeve?

 In the end, I did this:

 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1rMJccMQo6Q9Vfxi0Fq33tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
 ie, I made a whole new arbor specifically for the job.

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Nice. Maybe I missed it, but what taper is that?

Jason
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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 January 2013 21:20, Jason Burton lathebuil...@gmail.com wrote:

 Nice. Maybe I missed it, but what taper is that?

30 INT.

(Which seems to be unknown in the US, but is very similar to NMTB 30)

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[Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread andy pugh
I have a 1.25 bore gear hob, and a 1 bore horizontal milling arbor
for my milling machine.

I am trying to figure out how to make an adaptor. The ideal thing
would have an internal keyway and an external key, but I can't
off-hand think of a way to make that with sufficient guarantee of
concentricity.

The Plan B is a machined sleeve with holes for pegs which can engage
both keyways.

Not having ever used a horizontal milling arbor, should there be a
full-length key? Mine appears to only have one very short key.

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread John Prentice (FS)
Greetings

-Original Message-
From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com] 
Sent: 03 January 2013 11:45



I have a 1.25 bore gear hob, and a 1 bore horizontal milling arbor for my
milling machine.

 

I am trying to figure out how to make an adaptor. The ideal thing would have
an internal keyway and an external key, but I can't off-hand think of a way
to make that with sufficient guarantee of concentricity.

 

The Plan B is a machined sleeve with holes for pegs which can engage both
keyways.

 

Not having ever used a horizontal milling arbor, should there be a
full-length key? Mine appears to only have one very short key.

 

The arbors I have used typically have a long key going through all the
spacers. A short key might wander axially under extended heavy cutting.

 

If you turn the OD and bore the ID of your adaptor then the straightness of
the arbor is probably a bigger error than your adaptor's concentricity. I
don't think the keys matter that much - unless I misunderstand the question.

 

John Prentice

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread Stephen Dubovsky
Turn/bore a sleeve.  Very concentric.  Cut a slot on the OD using endmill
or wodruff keyway cutter.  Use broach or shaper to cut internal keyway (and
not directly under the outer keyway;))

Note: if soft steel you can shape/broach both w/ a lathe carriage. But its
very slow going unless you have a beefy lathe.

Stephen



On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 6:45 AM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a 1.25 bore gear hob, and a 1 bore horizontal milling arbor
 for my milling machine.

 I am trying to figure out how to make an adaptor. The ideal thing
 would have an internal keyway and an external key, but I can't
 off-hand think of a way to make that with sufficient guarantee of
 concentricity.

 The Plan B is a machined sleeve with holes for pegs which can engage
 both keyways.

 Not having ever used a horizontal milling arbor, should there be a
 full-length key? Mine appears to only have one very short key.

 --
 atp
 If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
 http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto


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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread andy pugh
On 3 January 2013 14:04, Stephen Dubovsky smdubov...@gmail.com wrote:
 Turn/bore a sleeve.  Very concentric.  Cut a slot on the OD using endmill
 or wodruff keyway cutter.  Use broach or shaper to cut internal keyway (and
 not directly under the outer keyway;))

There is only 1/4 diameter difference, so the wall thickness of the
sleeve may not be enough for the outer keyway.

(I am hoping that an arbor of the correct diameter and taper will turn
up on eBay)

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread Mark Wendt
On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 9:10 AM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 3 January 2013 13:38, John Prentice (FS)
 j...@castlewd.freeserve.co.uk wrote:

 If you turn the OD and bore the ID of your adaptor then the straightness of
 the arbor is probably a bigger error than your adaptor's concentricity. I
 don't think the keys matter that much - unless I misunderstand the question.

 I rather imagine that the keys provide the cutting torque?

 Any slippage with a gear hob would be a problem.

 I don't really think that 1/8 wall thickness is enough for both an
 internal and external keyway (even if staggered), so I was thinking
 that the external key would need to be integral to the adaptor. But
 that would have to be milled, which means a change in setup. (and my
 rotary axis is not particularly good)

 This picture gives me an idea, though:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLING-MACHINE-ARBOR-ADAPTER-COLLAR-SPACER-1-x-1-5-8-x-2-long-9482-/181053049758
 I actually have a spare arbor (MT2, and so no good to me) with a set
 of spacers. I can machine a step on two of the wider ones, and use a
 super-thick key.


 --
 atp

Why not turn and bore the adapter, then cut a full length slot in it
the width of the key.  Then just use a key that's high enough to fit
in both the keyway slots?

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread andy pugh
On 3 January 2013 14:20, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why not turn and bore the adapter, then cut a full length slot in it
 the width of the key.  Then just use a key that's high enough to fit
 in both the keyway slots?

I can't convince myself that the load on the key is exactly the same
in that scenario (is it just two separate shear planes, or can the key
rock because the sleeve can rotate?).
I need to check the key sizes too. It may need to be a stepped key.

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread Stephen Dubovsky
Didn't think about the 1/8 wall thickness.  Hmm.  Maybe a series of
interrupted thru cuts in a line to use multiple shorter (lengthwise) keys?
Sort of like multiple woodruff keys that are sometimes used on wide gears.
But full depth through the shell?

I don't think Marks suggestion of cutting all the way through end to end
will work.  The key is no longer in shear and will want to rock over.

Hmm. Sounds like a proper arbor is the easiest way:P  What taper are you
looking for?  Maybe post a WTB over on PM.


On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 9:13 AM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 3 January 2013 14:04, Stephen Dubovsky smdubov...@gmail.com wrote:
  Turn/bore a sleeve.  Very concentric.  Cut a slot on the OD using endmill
  or wodruff keyway cutter.  Use broach or shaper to cut internal keyway
 (and
  not directly under the outer keyway;))

 There is only 1/4 diameter difference, so the wall thickness of the
 sleeve may not be enough for the outer keyway.

 (I am hoping that an arbor of the correct diameter and taper will turn
 up on eBay)

 --
 atp
 If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
 http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto


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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread andy pugh
On 3 January 2013 14:49, Stephen Dubovsky smdubov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hmm. Sounds like a proper arbor is the easiest way:P  What taper are you
 looking for?  Maybe post a WTB over on PM.

I want a 30 INT. There is one here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370555655855?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
It's just slightly too expensive for me to buy without careful consideration.

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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread dave
On Thu, 2013-01-03 at 14:49 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 3 January 2013 14:20, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Why not turn and bore the adapter, then cut a full length slot in it
  the width of the key.  Then just use a key that's high enough to fit
  in both the keyway slots?
 
 I can't convince myself that the load on the key is exactly the same
 in that scenario (is it just two separate shear planes, or can the key
 rock because the sleeve can rotate?).
 I need to check the key sizes too. It may need to be a stepped key.
 
Given my druthers I'd do it a bit differently. On the lathe machine a
stepped adapter; i.e. 1.000 bore, 1.25 OD but stepped to the usual dia
of the spacers for an inch or so. Broach the inner slot so it is backed
by the integral spacer. Then mill the outer slot and make it a close
fit. 
Use regular spacers on the front part. Mild steel would probably work
but acraloy, i.e. normalized 4140 shafting at Rc 30 would be better.

I hope the above description makes sense. ;-)  

Good luck. 

Dave



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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread ed
dave wrote:
 On Thu, 2013-01-03 at 14:49 +, andy pugh wrote:
   
 On 3 January 2013 14:20, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com wrote:

 
SNIP

Do you have other holders for this spindle? If so then make an arbor to 
fit the hob and turn the end down to fit available holder. 1 1/4 shaft, 
keyed, turned down to fit.

Ed.


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Re: [Emc-users] Milling arbor adaptor

2013-01-03 Thread andy pugh
On 3 January 2013 17:53, ed ate...@mwt.net wrote:

 Do you have other holders for this spindle? If so then make an arbor to
 fit the hob and turn the end down to fit available holder. 1 1/4 shaft,
 keyed, turned down to fit.

That would be a possibility. I have a Clarkson chuck I am unlikely to
ever use. I could even use the thread in the collet to tighten it all
up, and keep the running end all solid.

Hmm….

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