Re: [EVDL] Chevy Bolt battery replacement and 80% local driving policy.

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

They replaced the whole pack and the software. I had to wait for forklift time, 
then a battery coolant hose (muffler bearings?). They left hill top mode off so 
I guess not on that 80% charging recommendation. Took 1 week, but free battery! 
B-)

Chris Darilek
2017 Chevy Bolt
1974 BMW 2002 EV


On Wednesday, April 20, 2022, 05:16:28 PM CDT, Mark Hanson 
 wrote: 





Thanks Chris
I have a 2000 Bolt.  Did they just replace a few cells and software or actually 
the whole pack?  Did they finally recommend 80% charging for local trips like 
all other EVs?
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2022, at 4:13 PM, ev-requ...@lists.evdl.org wrote:

Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2022 13:15:33 + (UTC)
From: Christopher Darilek 
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
Subject: [EVDL] 2017 Chevy Bolt free new battery deal is real
Message-ID: <396524552.1576510.1650460533...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Shout out to Chevy for the free new (recall) battery I guess, picked mine up 
yesterday. New car!? :)

Chris Darilek
2017 Chevy Bolt
1974 BMW 2002 EV

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[EVDL] 2017 Chevy Bolt free new battery deal is real

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

Shout out to Chevy for the free new (recall) battery I guess, picked mine up 
yesterday. New car!  :)

Chris Darilek
2017 Chevy Bolt
1974 BMW 2002 EV
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Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 EOL behavior

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

For the 8 years I've had this pack my practice has been to charge it at a C/15 
rate and stop when the first cell hits 3.45V. Its a 18kWh CALB.

You could watch the cells go from ~3.32V to 3.45V pretty quickly, once they 
left 3.32V they'd be at 3.45V in <2mins and the charge stops.

It's been hot, central Texas. I just got back from a range test and it's at 20 
miles now. When the pack was new I claimed it had a 50 mile range, but I never 
went more than about 40 miles. 

I somewhat eliminated the parasitic load issue (reducing range?) by not letting 
it sit long after charge. But I plan to borrow a meter from work to check it.

I'm going to cycle it a few more times, to see if capacity recovers after the 
lockdown sitting period, I think someone suggested that.

26236 miles total

-Chris

ps. I must confess, my EV grin is wider driving our Chevy Bolt, even if it does 
plan to catch fire someday..


On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 11:21:27 PM CDT, Michael Ross via EV 
 wrote: 





For LiFePO, a parasitic load might be protective. It's that full charge
that is destructive.

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 11:40 PM EVDL Administrator via EV <
ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:

> On 24 Jul 2021 at 21:04, Michael Ross via EV wrote:
>
> > The worst thing you can do to LiFPO is to charge it fully, and let it sit
> > around, especially in a hot location.
>
> Isn't that the case for lithium batteries of any chemistry?  I'm not a
> lithium expert by any means; I'm just asking.
>
> It occurs to me that some of Chris's parasitic loads could be coming from
> "inside the house," so to speak.  That is, they might be from the BMS.
>
> I have 24v and 36v 10ah LiFePO4 batteries with a BMS with logic that's
> powered by a 12v tap (not the optimum design), and the 4 cells that power
> the BMS always take longer than the others to reach full charge.  For long
> term storage I have read a suggestion to disconnect the BMS if possible -
> but don't forget to reconnect it when taking the battery out of storage.
>
> David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey
>
> To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my
> offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt
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[EVDL] LiFePO4 EOL behavior

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

Hi Guys,

I have an 8 year old LiFePO4 pack in my car and wonder if anyone knows what the 
end of life failure mode is for these?

Over the pandemic lock down I was not driving the car for 3 months and noticed 
one day that all the cells were flat, ~2V. I attributed this to some parasitic 
loads over the 3mo, and charged it back up. 

Then, with a full charge I drove ~10 miles (about 25% of my 'old' range) and 
parked, and after a couple weeks noticed I was back ~2V per cell. 

I put it on charge and it seems to have charged up and is holding voltage now.

Is this how LiFePO4 batteries toss in the towel or do I still have a parasitic 
load to debug? What is the failure mode? 

Thanks for any tips.
Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
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Re: [EVDL] Ford F-150 Reveal

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

How are they going to make the F-150 Lightening cheaper than the Mach-e ($40k 
vs $44k) when the F-150 is a ton heavier (6500lb vs 4400lbs), has a larger 
frontal area, and nearly the same range.. ?

Does $40k seem like false advertising? 

-Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
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[EVDL] new EV in family

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

We just picked up a 2017 Chevy Bolt and its amazing. That is all.
-ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002


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Re: [EVDL] EVLN: Lordstown Endurance pickup e-truck> 4 in-wheel e-motors

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Are we still laughing at hub motors? Unsprung weight? Or does Lordstown know 
what they're doing?
-Chrishttp://evalbum.com/4743


https://cleantechnica.com/2020/06/28/lordstown-motors-takes-the-wraps-off-its-endurance-electric-pickup-truck/
Lordstown Motors Takes The Wraps Off Its Endurance Electric Pickup Truck
June 28th, 2020  The Lordstown Endurance is an American-made all-electric
pickup truck with 4 in-wheel motors that use technology licensed from
Elaphe, 600 horsepower, a stump-pulling maximum torque of 4,400 ft-lbs, and
a range of 250 miles. By design it looks pretty much like a standard pickup
truck ...
https://cleantechnica.com/files/2020/02/lordstown-motor-endurance-electric-truck-sketch-1536x549.jpg

  
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Re: [EVDL] EVLN: $45k Niro 64kWh liquid-cooled EV> novices can drive w/o learning EV-speak

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Yeah.. I have the same concerns with Rivian. Roughly, how do you make a car 
with a 100kWh battery and sell it for 40% less than what Tesla does for same 
size battery?
-Chris

On Sunday, February 9, 2020, 8:26:24 AM CST, paul dove via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Wow that cost as much as a model 3 with 2/3rds the range

Sent from my iPhone


  
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Re: [EVDL] +more: dink GM hummer pu e-truck ...

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 I'm not takin that bet!

On Monday, February 3, 2020, 3:17:00 PM CST, paul dove via EV 
 wrote:  
 
  I got $5 says it's a publicity stunt that will never come to fruition.

    On Monday, February 3, 2020, 8:30:59 AM CST, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
  Let's make some wagers on the hummer EV price tag. $200k? 1000HP is 745W, or 
12kWh over 1 minute.  Plllease...
-Chris
  
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Re: [EVDL] +more: dink GM hummer pu e-truck ...

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Let's make some wagers on the hummer EV price tag. $200k? 1000HP is 745W, or 
12kWh over 1 minute.  Plllease...
-Chris

On Monday, February 3, 2020, 6:56:25 AM CST, brucedp5 via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/02/style/electric-hummer-super-bowl-lebron.html
The Electric Hummer and the Rise of the Eco-Beast
2020/02/02  What would it take to unite this divided country? At this point,
we seem to be down to one option: electric pickup trucks ... Enter, the
eco-beast ... 


https://www.msn.com/en-us/finance/companies/hummer-electric-pickup-truck-everything-we-know/ar-BBZzDwM
Hummer Electric Pickup Truck: Everything We Know 
February 2, 2020, ... GMC Hummer Electric Pickup Truck Render
https://www.msn.com/en-us/finance/companies/hummer-electric-pickup-truck-everything-we-know/ar-BBZzDwM

  
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Re: [EVDL] Is it worth it?

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 I meant the watt-hours seem to still be there, but the amps come out at a 
lower voltage (making my car sluggish). 

Is it a controller's low voltage cutoff that is limiting the range? Or a fear 
of voltage going so low?
My understanding is just the internal resistance goes up with cold. I guess you 
lose power to that IR..

-Chris

On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 12:14:53 PM CST, EVDL Administrator via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 On 21 Jan 2020 at 17:40, Christopher Darilek via EV wrote:

> The amps are still there, they just don't come out as fast. 

Amperes IS a measure of how fast the energy leaves the battery.

Or do you mean amp-HOURS?  That's the unit you use to measure energy.

Lead batteries always have less apparent capacity when they're cold.  
Lubricants are also stiffer at lower temperatures, so the EV also uses more 
energy per unit of distance.  Range always is less in the cold.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Is it worth it?

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Does cold weather really limit your range?, or just your power? My Chris' 1972 
BMW 2002 is just more sluggish in cold weather. The amps are still there, they 
just don't come out as fast.. -Chris


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On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:07:06 AM CST, Peri Hartman via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 What about consideration for cold weather - a loss of 20 to 30% capacity 
? And HVAC and other things ?

Regardless, is it worth converting to Li ? If you need 100 miles and can 
only get 40 with lead, then the answer seems emphatically "yes."

Peri

  
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Re: [EVDL] zilla hairball repair

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Barry,
What would you like to sell your Zilla 1k and hairball for? 

Thanks,Chris

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 12:16:48 PM CST, Barry Oppenheim via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Chris,

If you can't get it repaired I have a Zilla 1k and hairball that I am no
longer using.

Barry



On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 10:16 AM Christopher Darilek via EV 
wrote:

> Upon cleaning my 12V battery cable it touched something at 100V. There was
> a spark and a blown 12V fuse. Everything seems OK now but my zilla hairball
> is not precharging. It appears dead. Manzanita has not responded to me yet.
> Any advice on zilla hairball repair or troubleshooting? Should I see if it
> communicates, etc? Panic, need to get back on the road!  Thx.
> Chris vintage electro
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Re: [EVDL] zilla hairball repair

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 I should add:
With the key switch On only the Main Cont Off LED was lit, no Precharging LED, 
no Error LED..

-Chris

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:16:41 AM CST, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Upon cleaning my 12V battery cable it touched something at 100V. There was a 
spark and a blown 12V fuse. Everything seems OK now but my zilla hairball is 
not precharging. It appears dead. Manzanita has not responded to me yet. Any 
advice on zilla hairball repair or troubleshooting? Should I see if it 
communicates, etc? Panic, need to get back on the road!  Thx.
Chris vintage electro

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[EVDL] zilla hairball repair

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

Upon cleaning my 12V battery cable it touched something at 100V. There was a 
spark and a blown 12V fuse. Everything seems OK now but my zilla hairball is 
not precharging. It appears dead. Manzanita has not responded to me yet. Any 
advice on zilla hairball repair or troubleshooting? Should I see if it 
communicates, etc? Panic, need to get back on the road!  Thx.
Chris vintage electro

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Re: [EVDL] Manzanita PFC20 operation

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Solution: I had the 16 position rotary switch timer adjustment set to time out 
instantly, once I set it to 15 mins or whatever, the charger is now working. 
Yay!
-Chris

On Wednesday, August 7, 2019, 7:24:59 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
  During the first charge it did, I started fully charged, tuned the volts trim 
until Yellow On, Blue blinking, then Blue solid On after timeout. For the 
second charge the blue comes on immediately and no yellow, even if I turn the 
volts trim up.

Thanks,Chris

    On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 10:07:59 PM CDT, Alan Arrison via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 The blue led is the timer time out after the yellow voltage limit led 
comes on.

If the rotary switch is set to 3 o'clock, it times out immediately after 
the yellow led comes on.

Does the yellow come on along with the blue?

On 8/6/2019 2:47 PM, Christopher Darilek via EV wrote:
> I scored a Manzanita PFC20 charger to round out my Zilla setup and wonder if 
> anyone has advice - I did the volts trim so that it stopped charging at 
> 99.6V. Now when the battery is at 98.4V is will not start back up when I flip 
> the breaker, even if I turn the voltage trim way up. The blue LED is On solid.
>
> I'd like to trim it to 103V but I can't get it to charge now. I can't get the 
> blue LED to turn Off, even if I unplug everything for a few mins.
>
> I'm not sure what voltage pack it was setup for prior. Do I need to mess with 
> the auto restart potentiometer VR6 behind the faceplate? Or follow the 
> elithion advice?
>
> I'm looking at the Programming section of Elithion Lithiumate manual - 
> Manzanita Micro (I have a lithiumate BMS).
>
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>
> Manzanita Micro: Installing and programming a Manzanita Micro charger with a 
> Lithiumate BMS..
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> And the Steps For Setting The Auto Restart Set Point section of 
> http://www.manzanitamicro.com/downloads/category/3-chargers?download=101%3Apfc20-30-40-manual.
> Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002
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Re: [EVDL] Manzanita PFC20 operation

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 During the first charge it did, I started fully charged, tuned the volts trim 
until Yellow On, Blue blinking, then Blue solid On after timeout. For the 
second charge the blue comes on immediately and no yellow, even if I turn the 
volts trim up.

Thanks,Chris

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 10:07:59 PM CDT, Alan Arrison via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 The blue led is the timer time out after the yellow voltage limit led 
comes on.

If the rotary switch is set to 3 o'clock, it times out immediately after 
the yellow led comes on.

Does the yellow come on along with the blue?

On 8/6/2019 2:47 PM, Christopher Darilek via EV wrote:
> I scored a Manzanita PFC20 charger to round out my Zilla setup and wonder if 
> anyone has advice - I did the volts trim so that it stopped charging at 
> 99.6V. Now when the battery is at 98.4V is will not start back up when I flip 
> the breaker, even if I turn the voltage trim way up. The blue LED is On solid.
>
> I'd like to trim it to 103V but I can't get it to charge now. I can't get the 
> blue LED to turn Off, even if I unplug everything for a few mins.
>
> I'm not sure what voltage pack it was setup for prior. Do I need to mess with 
> the auto restart potentiometer VR6 behind the faceplate? Or follow the 
> elithion advice?
>
> I'm looking at the Programming section of Elithion Lithiumate manual - 
> Manzanita Micro (I have a lithiumate BMS).
>
>
> |
> |
> |
> |  |  |
>
>  |
>
>  |
> |
> |  |
> Elithion Lithiumate manual - Manzanita Micro
>
> Manzanita Micro: Installing and programming a Manzanita Micro charger with a 
> Lithiumate BMS..
>  |
>
>  |
>
>  |
>
>
>
>
> And the Steps For Setting The Auto Restart Set Point section of 
> http://www.manzanitamicro.com/downloads/category/3-chargers?download=101%3Apfc20-30-40-manual.
> Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002
>
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[EVDL] Manzanita PFC20 operation

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

I scored a Manzanita PFC20 charger to round out my Zilla setup and wonder if 
anyone has advice - I did the volts trim so that it stopped charging at 99.6V. 
Now when the battery is at 98.4V is will not start back up when I flip the 
breaker, even if I turn the voltage trim way up. The blue LED is On solid. 

I'd like to trim it to 103V but I can't get it to charge now. I can't get the 
blue LED to turn Off, even if I unplug everything for a few mins.

I'm not sure what voltage pack it was setup for prior. Do I need to mess with 
the auto restart potentiometer VR6 behind the faceplate? Or follow the elithion 
advice? 

I'm looking at the Programming section of Elithion Lithiumate manual - 
Manzanita Micro (I have a lithiumate BMS).


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Elithion Lithiumate manual - Manzanita Micro

Manzanita Micro: Installing and programming a Manzanita Micro charger with a 
Lithiumate BMS..
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And the Steps For Setting The Auto Restart Set Point section of 
http://www.manzanitamicro.com/downloads/category/3-chargers?download=101%3Apfc20-30-40-manual.
Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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Re: [EVDL] Folding E-Scooter - Too Good to be TRUE ?

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 They seem to have an active FB page. 
www.facebook.com/X1Bike

With prices mentioned around $1k. Weird.
-Chris

On Wednesday, July 10, 2019, 1:32:57 PM CDT, Mark Abramowitz via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 My guess is that the pictures were taken in Florida.

This was an unsuccessful Kickstarter project in 2017 - perhaps he found funding 
elsewhere. 

- Mark

Sent from my Fuel Cell powered iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2019, at 9:48 AM, John Lussmyer via EV  wrote:
> 
> On Wed Jul 10 08:56:25 PDT 2019 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>> But is it too good to be true ??
> 
> Quite likely.  I tried for the neat electric scooter that was advertised 
> around chistmas.
> Twas a scam - though I carefully used a card that let me dispute the charges.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Try my Sensible Email package!  
> https://sourceforge.net/projects/sensibleemail/
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Re: [EVDL] Zilla cutting out help

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Well, it stopped doing that in the morning. Must have been something to do 
with the rain.
Thanks,
Chris

On Wednesday, April 24, 2019, 10:30:33 AM CDT, John Lussmyer via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 On Wed Apr 24 08:00:21 PDT 2019 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Does anyone know what it means if Zilla cuts out every 5 seconds, have to 
>re-throttle and it'll go for another 5 seconds. The Main contactor is closed, 
>the main contactor light on the zilla is lit, and the Precharge light on the 
>zilla goes on and off at 5 seconds.

Have you checked for what error code the Zilla may be reporting?
Just hook a computer to the serial port and read it.
Have you tried checking for voltage drop across the main contactor?


--

Try my Sensible Email package!  https://sourceforge.net/projects/sensibleemail/
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[EVDL] Zilla cutting out help

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Does anyone know what it means if Zilla cuts out every 5 seconds, have to 
re-throttle and it'll go for another 5 seconds. The Main contactor is closed, 
the main contactor light on the zilla is lit, and the Precharge light on the 
zilla goes on and off at 5 seconds.
Thanks,
Chrishttp://www.evalbum.com/4743
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Re: [EVDL] EVLN: Ford F-150 e-Truck promised

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Has anyone seen what capacity battery they plan to use? IMO this is the reason 
we haven't seen a successful EV truck yet. The bigger the vehicle the more 
battery you'll need and it becomes cost prohibitive. Is this the elephant in 
the room? Like the Rivian, it has a battery that is 5% larger than Tesla's 
biggest EV battery and they plan to sell it for something like 20% less than 
the same Tesla. How's that going to work?

-Chris
https://news.yahoo.com/electric-ford-f-150-pickup-16491.html
An All-Electric Ford F-150 Pickup Truck Is Happening
January 17, 2019  Joey Capparella (Car and Driver)

  
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[EVDL] Curtis 1231C value

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

What is the value of a used Curtis 1231C these days? I have mine on ebay and 
its' not getting any hits. Trying to recoup something after my zilla upgrade.  J
$800?$500?

Thanks,
Chrisvintage electro

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Re: [EVDL] Zilla 1k-lv M+ wiring

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 [fixed up formatting]

  Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch, 
which of the following options should I pick? 

The top half of my battery is under the hood and the bottom half is in the 
trunk. 

My motor is under the hood (of course). And my old controller was in the trunk 
(original idea was to protect from the elements). 

So I have 3 cables running under the car: from battery+ to controller B+, 
motor- to controller M-, and one connecting the middle of the 2 batteries 
together. 
So should I:

1. run a new cable from Zilla M+ to motor+ (have 4 cables running under the car)
2. swap the polarity of the front/rear batteries (top half in trunk, bottom 
half under hood, moving contactor from hood to trunk, still having 3 cables 
under the car)
3. move the controller to under the hood (then would only have 2 cables under 
the car: battery- to M-/B- and one connecting the middle of the 2 batteries 
together, this would require me also moving the 12V battery to the trunk to 
make space for controller)
Should I be concerned about long power runs? 4 cables under car vs. 2 cables, 
etc? 

I also use a Lithiumate BMS and they warn that the Zilla is noisy and can 
interfere - would option 3 be any better in the case? 
Thanks!
Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743

    On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 9:08:23 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
  Ahhh, its a high-side switch? 

B- and M- are common inside the controller, correct?
Thanks,Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
  
 On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 8:28:44 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV grin. 

The 1231C used a common power connection for B+ and M+, however these are 
separated on the Zilla (and I do not measure continuity between). What topology 
does the Zilla use that B+ is not connected to M+? 

Anyway, running a separate M+ cable to the controller will be a moderately 
difficult job. I assume this is really needed? Grr, thought I could knock this 
out today. I can't find anything in the archives or online about this..

Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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Re: [EVDL] Zilla 1k-lv M+ wiring

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Continuing my plea for help, and seeing that the Zilla is a high-side switch, 
which of the following options should I pick? The top half of my battery is 
under the hood and the bottom half is in the trunk. My motor is under the hood 
(of course). And my old controller was in the trunk (original idea was to 
protect from the elements). So I have 3 cables running under the car: from 
battery+ to controller B+, motor- to controller M-, and one connecting the 
middle of the 2 batteries together. 

So should I:

1. run a new cable from Zilla M+ to motor+ (have 4 cables running under the 
car)2. swap the polarity of the front/rear batteries (top half in trunk, bottom 
half under hood, moving contactor from hood to trunk, still having 3 cables 
under the car)3. move the controller to under the hood (then would only have 2 
cables under the car: battery- to M-/B- and one connecting the middle of the 2 
batteries together, this would require me also moving the 12V battery to the 
trunk to make space for controller)
Should I be concerned about long power runs? 4 cables under car vs. 2 cables, 
etc? I also use a Lithiumate BMS and they warn that the Zilla is noisy and can 
interfere - would option 3 be any better in the case? 

Thanks!Chrishttp://www.evalbum.com/4743


On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 9:08:23 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
  Ahhh, its a high-side switch? 

B- and M- are common inside the controller, correct?
Thanks,Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
  
 On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 8:28:44 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV grin. 

The 1231C used a common power connection for B+ and M+, however these are 
separated on the Zilla (and I do not measure continuity between). What topology 
does the Zilla use that B+ is not connected to M+? 

Anyway, running a separate M+ cable to the controller will be a moderately 
difficult job. I assume this is really needed? Grr, thought I could knock this 
out today. I can't find anything in the archives or online about this..

Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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Re: [EVDL] Zilla 1k-lv M+ wiring

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

 Ahhh, its a high-side switch? 

B- and M- are common inside the controller, correct?
Thanks,Chris
http://www.evalbum.com/4743
   
 On Saturday, September 15, 2018, 8:28:44 AM CDT, Christopher Darilek via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV grin. 

The 1231C used a common power connection for B+ and M+, however these are 
separated on the Zilla (and I do not measure continuity between). What topology 
does the Zilla use that B+ is not connected to M+? 

Anyway, running a separate M+ cable to the controller will be a moderately 
difficult job. I assume this is really needed? Grr, thought I could knock this 
out today. I can't find anything in the archives or online about this..

Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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[EVDL] Zilla 1k-lv M+ wiring

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

Hi all. I'm upgrading from a Curtis 1231C to a Zilla 1k to refresh my EV grin. 

The 1231C used a common power connection for B+ and M+, however these are 
separated on the Zilla (and I do not measure continuity between). What topology 
does the Zilla use that B+ is not connected to M+? 

Anyway, running a separate M+ cable to the controller will be a moderately 
difficult job. I assume this is really needed? Grr, thought I could knock this 
out today. I can't find anything in the archives or online about this..

Thanks,ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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Re: [EVDL] Charger connector options

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

How would you mount the car-side PowerPole connector?  Pigtail somewhere?  I 
have a hole in the side of my car I'd like to use to mount it..
-Chris

  From: Roger Stockton via EV 
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List  
 Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2016 2:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] Charger connector options
   
Christopher Darilek wrote:

> I'm ready to upgrade my charger connector.  Right now I'm using NEMA plugs
> on the ends of pig tails under the hood (I have to open my hood 2x a
> day).  My charge rate is 18A @100V (reduced to not melt said plugs).  I
> think I need 5 connections:  +100V, battery ground, +12V, chassis ground,
> and BMS output to turn the charger Off.  I'd like for the connector to be
> accessible without opening the hood.  What do ya'll use?  Any ideas?

I'd suggest Anderson PowerPole connectors for this:



My first EV also used a large offboard transformer-type charger (Lester), and 
also required both pack voltage and 12V connections between the vehicle and 
charger.  It used a 4-pole PowerPole configuration for this.  In my case, the 
charger needed to see 12V from the vehicle to turn on its output.

You can choose different colours to color-code each contact according to 
purpose, and Anderson sells housings to allow the vehicle side connector to be 
mounted behind a fuel filler door, or somewhere else convenient and to allow 
the off board connector to be covered and treated as a 'paddle'.

This way there is no risk of future confusion resulting in something other than 
the intended charger being connected to the vehicle, and you have a connector 
system rated to make/break DC (which a re-purposed AC connector may not be).

Cheers,

Roger.


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Re: [EVDL] Charger connector options

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

Ahhh, I should have added that my charger is a big honkin' off-board 
transformer.  I don't want to put in in the car in order to save weight.  But 
it does look like a J1772 port has 5 conductors.  This might fit the bill.
-Chris

  From: Lawrence Harris <lhar...@haritech.com>
 To: Christopher Darilek <cdarilek2...@yahoo.com>; Electric Vehicle Discussion 
List <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
 Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2016 11:52 AM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] Charger connector options
   
Is your charger 110/220 volt compatible?  Have you considered putting a J1772 
inlet maybe where the gas cap is?  There is some electronics to install behind 
it - a relay and a pilot signal.  I suspect the hardware is for sale somewhere 
as I see the inlet ports are readily available for about $90 and then you could 
use any standard charge cable.

Lawrence

> On May 19, 2016, at 9:01 AM, Christopher Darilek via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
> wrote:
> 
> I'm ready to upgrade my charger connector.  Right now I'm using NEMA plugs on 
> the ends of pig tails under the hood (I have to open my hood 2x a day).  My 
> charge rate is 18A @100V (reduced to not melt said plugs).  I think I need 5 
> connections:  +100V, battery ground, +12V, chassis ground, and BMS output to 
> turn the charger Off.  I'd like for the connector to be accessible without 
> opening the hood.  What do ya'll use?  Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Chrisvintageelectro.blogspot.com
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[EVDL] Charger connector options

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

I'm ready to upgrade my charger connector.  Right now I'm using NEMA plugs on 
the ends of pig tails under the hood (I have to open my hood 2x a day).  My 
charge rate is 18A @100V (reduced to not melt said plugs).  I think I need 5 
connections:  +100V, battery ground, +12V, chassis ground, and BMS output to 
turn the charger Off.  I'd like for the connector to be accessible without 
opening the hood.  What do ya'll use?  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Chrisvintageelectro.blogspot.com
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Re: [EVDL] Cold Charging Lithium Experiences

[Christopher Darilek via EV]

I've heard this same thing but was not clear on how low of a rate.  Does anyone 
know?  Around C/10?  Or lower?
-ChrisChris' 1972 BMW 2002

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 From: Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 To: Danpatgal danpat...@yahoo.com; Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
ev@lists.evdl.org 
 Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 6:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] Cold Charging Lithium Experiences
   
I have seen some of the research on this - if you charge slowly you can
avoid any plating.  The issue is the electrolyte becomes vicious and the
ions pile up on the SEI outside the cathode.  What I saw said the problem
was at -20C (-4F).  But, I am not sure exactly what the cell construction
was, and particularly the electrolyte composition.  There are umpteen
electrolyte recipes and they make a difference.  One thin they do is use
lower boiling point electrolytes to improve cold performance.  If the cell
is for a human implant you don't have to worry about it.  Lot's of variety.

I think you should heat the pack, and charge as slowly as you can just to
be sure.  Plating is really bad.

Mike


On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 3:25 PM, Danpatgal via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Reviving this thread as we're having another very cold stretch here in the
 Eastern US.

 My batteries (SE130 CALBs) are still going, but boy do they sag when it's
 cold like this.  It's annoying.

 I've been charging when my BMS sensors (atop each cell) are over 0C, which
 they have generally remained over the past few weeks despite the cold
 (thankfully my garage generally stays above 0C).

 But, my follow-up question on all this is if the BMS measurement is good
 enough.  For example, I guess there is resistive heat that gets generated
 upon charge/discharge/shunting that probably make the sensors read higher
 than the cells themselves.  How much, I don't know.

 Does anybody have any thoughts, experience on this?  We've gotten down to
 -20C with a HIGH today of only -10C ... yet I'm charging.  I didn't really
 want to do it, but I was dragging so much on the road with low SOC%, I had
 to, or risk having to really limp home.



 -
 Dan Gallagher
 http://www.evalbum.com/3854

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 http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Cold-Charging-Lithium-Experiences-tp4667675p4673895.html
 Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
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-- 
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http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

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