Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Jan Steinman via EV]

> From: Robert Bruninga via EV 
> 
>> CFBs and LEDs are inherently more complex and costly
>> than old incandescents. But we've "externalized" those costs
>> (and their carbon footprint and energy of production) to China,
>> which is using cheap coal for goods production ...
> 
> The excuse of "china" and their coal consumption is so 2008 legacy and
> triggers a response...

Look, I’m not making this up! Google knows (with 2016 datelines):

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=how+fast+is+china+building+coal+plants

While it is true that coal-fired electricity peaked in China in 2014, that 
appears to have been due to global recession, rather than policy. They continue 
to build new coal plants, albeit at a slower rate.

But my go-to source for such things is Gail Tverberg, who has been invited to 
teach energy and resource depletion issues in China. She claims reliance on 
cheap domestic coal is more important than even cheap labour in making China a 
manufacturing powerhouse.

https://ourfiniteworld.com/?s=china

Bottom line: let’s not get too cocky about such things. Yea, I like LEDs, and 
have recently ordered a bunch of them, but at best, they are slowing down our 
overshoot, not stopping it, and they are certainly not “sustainable.”

Anyway, my apologies for taking this off the list subject, into a 
more-controversial subject.

Jan

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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Robert Bruninga via EV]

> CFBs and LEDs are inherently more complex and costly
> than old incandescents. But we’ve “externalized” those costs
> (and their carbon footprint and energy of production) to China,
> which is using cheap coal for goods production ...

The excuse of "china" and their coal consumption is so 2008 legacy and
triggers a response...

Every person in China got the message at the 2008 Olympics that coal was
killing them.  SInce then China has so completely reversed course that they
are eating our lunch.  In 2013 they installed more solar and wind in one
year than we have done to date.  And this year, their investment in solar
and wind is DOUBLE the entire investment of the USA in clean energy. We are
even behind the Europeans I think.

China is phasing out coal faster than we are, switching to solar and wind
faster than we are, and now with our new administration we are even going
backwards by promising to shut down clean energy ( and 13 million new
forward thinking jobs) and to restore COAL (and only a few thousand
dead-end jobs).

I fear we hold on too long to the news of the past and we are not thinking
clearly to the future...

Glad to hear the BOLT won top honors at the Autoshows!  and it is AMERICAN!

Bob
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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Jan Steinman via EV]

> From: Robert Bruninga via EV 
> 
> ... the demand on our
> electric grid in the eastern seaboard Maryland and Wash DC has actually
> gone DOWN by 20% not up as predicted.  And most of it is due to the simple
> step of switching from incandescent bulbs to CFL and LED's.

I agree that it’s good to get demand down, but I don’t think the big “emergy” 
picture is so simple.

CFBs and LEDs are inherently more complex and costly than old incandescents. 
But we’ve “externalized” those costs (and their carbon footprint and energy of 
production) to China, which is using cheap coal for goods production (along 
with a “closed” currency that keeps their exports unnaturally cheap), while the 
US is moving away from coal.

Hey, I’m not trying to rain on your parade — I use CFBs and LEDs, too. It’s 
amazing how cheap they are (with FREE shipping, even!) from Hong Kong on 
evilBay.

But I suspect their total impact on the total planet is negligible.

Then there’s the Jevons Paradox*. Now that LED holiday lights are common, it’s 
amazing how many more of them there are than when each bulb sucked up 7 watts!

(* making resource use more efficient speeds up use of that resource)

Jan, de N7JDB

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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Robert Bruninga via EV]

> You know what? What makes our economy grow is energy.

No, it is learning new things, applying them  and hard work...

> the American people are entitled to it, and if we're going improve
> (sic) our standard of living, you have to consume more energy.

Not if it is smart energy and less wasteful.  Actually the demand on our
electric grid in the eastern seaboard Maryland and Wash DC has actually
gone DOWN by 20% not up as predicted.  And most of it is due to the simple
step of switching from incandescent bulbs to CFL and LED's.

We dont have to cling to the stupid and wasteful ways of the past.

There is sunough solar energy to do everything we ever wanted to do and
more.  Its only lethargy and ignornace holding us back.

Bob, Wb4APR
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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Jay Summet via EV]

On 01/08/2017 04:46 PM, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:

On 2017-01-08, at 13:04, via EV  wrote:

Warranty void if seal broken


You can get 250 of these for $4.99 on evilBay!

I’d guess anyone who was re-furbing controllers would have their own supply.



It's certainly possible, but all of the components appear to be stock 
still.   (with one possible exception, Q13, see my next email.)


Jay
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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Jan Steinman via EV]

> On 2017-01-08, at 13:04, via EV  wrote:
> 
> Warranty void if seal broken

You can get 250 of these for $4.99 on evilBay!

I’d guess anyone who was re-furbing controllers would have their own supply.

 You know what? What makes our economy grow is energy. And Americans are 
used to going to the gas tank (sic), and when they put that hose in their, uh, 
tank, and when I do it, I wanna get gas out of it. And when I turn the light 
switch on, I want the lights to go on, and I don't want somebody to tell me I 
gotta change my way of living to satisfy them. Because this is America, and 
this is something we've worked our way into, and the American people are 
entitled to it, and if we're going improve (sic) our standard of living, you 
have to consume more energy. -- Chuck Grassley 

 Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op  

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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Jay Summet via EV]

On 01/08/2017 01:50 PM, Lee Hart wrote:

Jay Summet via EV wrote:

Ok, curiosity got to me and I decided to open up my failed Curtis 1231c.

The 8 screws on the bottom were only covered with two little rubber
plugs (no potting compound) which is different from what I'd read about
online. I removed them.


That means someone's been in there before.


I was wondering about that. It had a round "Warranty void if seal 
broken" over the corner of the front "potting compound"





I then used a razer to cut all around the "front panel" potting compound


The potting compound is a rock-hard black solid. If you could cut it
with a razor blade, that also suggests someone was in there before, and
used something else to re-seal it. (For example, I use silicone rubber,
which is easy to cut).


It wasn't easy to cut, but I definitely was able to cut it. The stuff on 
the terminal side looks the same as the side with the curtis nameplate 
badge. Any chance that Curtis just changed their formula at some point?





After you remove the screws from the bottom, there are also plastic
bushings that need to be removed. These are basically a tube, with a
head like a washer.


I got all the plastic bushings removed with no problems using a 
"grabber" type tool (expanded the prongs inside the bushings and pulled 
them right out).




You don't have to remove the blank plate at the far end. Once you've
removed the 8 bottom screws and plastic bushings, just pull on the
terminals and the "guts" will slide out.


I got it, thanks.



If the potting compound on the terminal end is still bonded to the case
in places, you may have to heat the case to soften it. Also, you can
slide a bolt through two of the terminals, and use a claw hammer or
crowbar to pry them up to get it started. (This is also how you break
free any plastic bushings that you can't get out).


Now I'm working on getting the potting compound away from the 
motor/battery terminals and the 3 connectors for the logic board.


The inside looks "stock" as far as I can tell (and luckily no large 
black marks) but I have already identified  one trace on the logic board 
that was zapped by high current close to where it comes in from the 
power boards.


I'll post photos after I get things dissembled further.

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] Curtis 1231c physical disassembly - cut the rear panel or not?

[Lee Hart via EV]

Jay Summet via EV wrote:

Ok, curiosity got to me and I decided to open up my failed Curtis 1231c.

The 8 screws on the bottom were only covered with two little rubber
plugs (no potting compound) which is different from what I'd read about
online. I removed them.


That means someone's been in there before.


I then used a razer to cut all around the "front panel" potting compound
with the motor/battery terminals and 3 throttle/ KSI plugs, and I can
pull the terminals and potting compound up about 1/4 inch, at which
point I hear/fel a "think" noise.


The potting compound is a rock-hard black solid. If you could cut it 
with a razor blade, that also suggests someone was in there before, and 
used something else to re-seal it. (For example, I use silicone rubber, 
which is easy to cut).


After you remove the screws from the bottom, there are also plastic 
bushings that need to be removed. These are basically a tube, with a 
head like a washer.


If you don't remove them, they get broken when you forcibly pull the 
"guts" out from the inside. They are hard to find, but relatively 
inexpensive to replace.



I didn't want to remove the back potting compound panel (where the
Curtis nameplate and serial number are located) if I don't need to.

But I also don't want to just pull really hard and hurt something

For people who have dissembled one of these before, do I need to detach
the back potting compound plate from the extrusion to slide things out,
or is it enough to pull everything out the "front" terminal side?


You don't have to remove the blank plate at the far end. Once you've 
removed the 8 bottom screws and plastic bushings, just pull on the 
terminals and the "guts" will slide out.


If the potting compound on the terminal end is still bonded to the case 
in places, you may have to heat the case to soften it. Also, you can 
slide a bolt through two of the terminals, and use a claw hammer or 
crowbar to pry them up to get it started. (This is also how you break 
free any plastic bushings that you can't get out).

--
Teaching children to program goes against the grain of modern education.
Just imagine the chaos if they learned to think logically, plan, create,
implement, test, and execute!
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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