Driving bits

2012-02-11 Thread Phillip Odden

This message is from: Phillip Odden n...@norskwoodworks.com


Hello from Phillip Odden wondering where that wonderful globally  
warmed winter went?


Bonnie said,
After going through vast numbers of riding bits for my other  two Fjords
before ending up with HS bits for them, I figured I would start with   
one
nice bit for Milo's driving career to avoid spending tons of money   
searching
for the right one. The bit I ordered arrived and I am  hesitant to use  
it
in case I have to return it. It is a Herm Sprenger aurigan  16mm arch  
mouth
butterfly. It has an smooth side and a bumpy side. The  bumpy side  
concerns

me..

Like anything else horse related there are lots of ways to look at  
biting for a driving  Fjord horse. I expect your choice is a good one.  
Fjords are said to have generally thicker tongues and need an arch  
mouth for tongue relief. I like Glory bits. They have an arch set at a  
forward angle with no rough side. This rough side can get people into  
trouble if they put the bit in the bridle so the rough side comes into  
play when the reins are tightened. And sometimes they think they have  
the bit right side forward when they don't because it is a little  
tricky. You almost have to get rather personal with your pony and put  
your fingers in its mouth to feel what is happening when you engage  
the bit.  This goes for the curb chain too. Curb chains can and should  
be adjusted depending on what you want to happen when you tighten the  
lines. Not something you should leave to happenstance.


Butterfly bits are reversible so they swivel. Some say it is possible  
to pinch the corners of the horse's lips in the swivel. Can,'t say  
that it has happened to me with my horses but then I don't know for  
sure.  I expect the bit you have is finely made and the swivel is tight.


 The butterfly probably has two settings. A liverpool has several  
more settings including the one I use nearly all the time,  with  
nearly all my horses, rough cheek. The rough cheek setting is just  
above the first slot just under the mouth piece. Because the liverpool  
has more settings I prefer them over butterfly driving bits.


In the end it is the driver's responsibility to know and at least to  
try to understand what will happen when she or he tightens the lines  
on the driving bit. That is an important aspect of horsemanship. So I  
expect there will be many different answers depending on which driving  
discipline and tradition you are involved in. But a very good question  
Bonnie.


respectfully,

Phillip Odden

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question about driving bits

2012-02-10 Thread BBDRI1
This message is from: bbd...@aol.com


My new driving Fjord, Milo, has been going nicely in  a mullen flexible 
snaffle. Now, as we start to venture off farm, it's time  to graduate to a 
proper driving bit. 
   After going through vast numbers of riding bits for my other  two Fjords 
before ending up with HS bits for them, I figured I would start with  one 
nice bit for Milo's driving career to avoid spending tons of money  searching 
for the right one. The bit I ordered arrived and I am  hesitant to use it 
in case I have to return it. It is a Herm Sprenger aurigan  16mm arch mouth 
butterfly. It has an smooth side and a bumpy side. The  bumpy side concerns 
me...I didn't see that in the catalog. 
   Does anyone use this type of bit mouthpiece on their Fjords? I  see a 
lot of Liverpool bits in Fjord driving photos. Is this a preferred shank  over 
the butterfly? Any advice would be appreciated.
   BTW, the latest Herald is awesome! Plenty of good reading and  photos of 
Fjord versatility.
 
Bonnie in Fl

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driving bits

2009-08-03 Thread Caroline Warren

This message is from: Caroline Warren caroline.war...@att.net

August 3, 2009
From Caroline Warren caroline.war...@att.net
Subject: Driving bits


I'm thinking about buying a mullen mouth liverpool driving bit for my  
fjord mare, Trina, as it was recommended by my trainer.  She has been  
driving well for a year and a half in a low port liverpool on the  
first slot, but she is a very forward mare and sometimes tosses her  
head when you apply the curb chain.  She's one of those strong-willed  
fjords, but hasn't given me any trouble.  Apparently she gave my  
trainer some grief this past month when I was laid up with a broken  
leg and left her with the trainer.  I wonder if a mullen mouth bit  
will really help.  Any comments?


Caroline Warren
Chico, CA

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Re: driving bits

2009-08-03 Thread jernest
This message is from: jern...@mosquitonet.com

I like the Myler butterfly driving bit with a low wide port (MB15)  You can 
order
htem in any width from Driving Essentials. You can also order this mouthpiece 
in a
Liverpool cheek. The Glory bits are also good, but hard to find anymore?

Fjords have low pallets and large tongues, so a mullen mouth or low wide port 
may
help. The shape of the Myler bits really helps also.

Jean in Hot Fairbanks, Alask, 80 degrees and smoke.


 I'm thinking about buying a mullen mouth liverpool driving bit for my
 fjord mare, Trina, as it was recommended by my trainer.  She has been
 driving well for a year and a half in a low port liverpool on the
 first slot, but she is a very forward mare and sometimes tosses her
 head when you apply the curb chain.  She's one of those strong-willed
 fjords, but hasn't given me any trouble.  Apparently she gave my
 trainer some grief this past month when I was laid up with a broken
 leg and left her with the trainer.  I wonder if a mullen mouth bit
 will really help.  Any comments?

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Re: driving bits

2007-11-20 Thread Jean Ernest

This message is from: Jean Ernest [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Myler makes driving bits with butterfly and elbow cheeks, probably 
would make a Liverpool cheek too.  I have the butterfly Myler with a 
solid low port (wide) mouthpiece (MB 15) and also the elbow with the 
same mouthpiece.  I got the elbow bit , 6, from Big Horse Feed and 
tack in California and the butterfly Myler in a 5.5 from Driving Essentials.


The Myler Kimberwick cheek looks a lot like a driving bit cheek.

Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska clear land cold, -1 degree


Hi Melinda, I am sure that one can find Kimberwicke bits for much
less--like $35 or so. But those are made in Pakistan and some are
decent and others are awful.
The specific Kimberwicke I am refering to is a Myler bit, and Myler
bits are expensive!  The custom made Mylers are made in America and
cost aproximately $140 or so.


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Re: driving bits

2007-11-20 Thread FjordAmy
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

In a message dated 11/18/2007 10:12:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Do any  of you drive with a Kimberwicke?
 



Yes, I drive with Kimberwicke bits. I use the Uxeter style with low  port 
solid mouth (my girls do not like jointed bits). I use them on the upper  
setting 
90% of the time - which is basically a snaffle setting with no real  leverage 
at all. 
 
Amy
 
 
 
Amy Evers
Dun Lookin' Fjords
260 May Creek Rd
Days  Creek, OR 97429
541-825-3303
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])  



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Re: driving bits

2007-11-19 Thread jen frame
This message is from: jen frame [EMAIL PROTECTED]

HI Carol, I agree that if it works well: use it! But it will cost me
$110 to buy it to find out if it works well!  Basically I am wondering
if other Fjord owners ever drive in a riding bit.?
Thanks,
Jen

On 11/19/07, Carol Makosky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This message is from: Carol Makosky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Do any of you drive with a
 Kimberwicke?

 I think my friend used one when he owned his Fjord.  If it works well, then 
 use it, I say.

 --
 Built Fjord Tough
 Carol M.
 On Golden Pond
 N. Wisconsin

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RE: driving bits

2007-11-19 Thread Gail Russell
This message is from: Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

If you are brave, you can search google what you want, and add craigslist
as a search term.  I just bought a pair of Cliff Lynch chinks from someone
in Virgina that way. There is a risk, because there is no feed back system.
I paid with paypal, and it worked great.  

I also bought an arena drag this way, and had it shipped cross country,.

Gail

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Re: driving bits

2007-11-19 Thread Melinda Schumacher
This message is from: Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Kimberwicks cost $110?! Is that what you are saying?  Mine was $25 or $35.
just curious about that,
Melinda


On 11/19/07, Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This message is from: Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 If you are brave, you can search google what you want, and add
 craigslist
 as a search term.  I just bought a pair of Cliff Lynch chinks from someone
 in Virgina that way. There is a risk, because there is no feed back
 system.
 I paid with paypal, and it worked great.

 I also bought an arena drag this way, and had it shipped cross country,.

 Gail

 The FjordHorse List archives can be found at:
 http://tinyurl.com/rcepw





-- 
Coaching with Melinda Schumacher, MD
Personal Empowerment through Creative Expression and Equine Experiential
Learning

You wander from room to room hunting for the diamond necklace that is
already around your neck.   ~Jalal-Uddin Rumi

As she knotted the reins and took her stand, the horse's soul came into her
hand, and up from the mouth that held the steel came an innermost word, half
thought, half feel.~paraphrased, John Masefield

Fly Without Wings  www.flywithoutwings.net
Gestalt Practitioner  www.gestaltcleveland.org

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Re: driving bits

2007-11-19 Thread jen frame
This message is from: jen frame [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Melinda, I am sure that one can find Kimberwicke bits for much
less--like $35 or so. But those are made in Pakistan and some are
decent and others are awful.
The specific Kimberwicke I am refering to is a Myler bit, and Myler
bits are expensive!  The custom made Mylers are made in America and
cost aproximately $140 or so. The pre-made Mylers are made in China,
which I am not thrilled about, but the Myler brothers themselves
inspect the Chinese made bits and have strict quality control, so they
are probably the best Chinese made bits you could get. They too are
expensive--like I said $110.00.
Myler bits are supposedly worth the price!  I'll let you know if I end
up buying one, what I think of it, if you are interested.
Jen

On 11/19/07, Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This message is from: Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Kimberwicks cost $110?! Is that what you are saying?  Mine was $25 or $35.
 just curious about that,
 Melinda


 On 11/19/07, Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  This message is from: Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  If you are brave, you can search google what you want, and add
  craigslist
  as a search term.  I just bought a pair of Cliff Lynch chinks from someone
  in Virgina that way. There is a risk, because there is no feed back
  system.
  I paid with paypal, and it worked great.
 
  I also bought an arena drag this way, and had it shipped cross country,.
 
  Gail
 
  The FjordHorse List archives can be found at:
  http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
 
 
 


 --
 Coaching with Melinda Schumacher, MD
 Personal Empowerment through Creative Expression and Equine Experiential
 Learning

 You wander from room to room hunting for the diamond necklace that is
 already around your neck.   ~Jalal-Uddin Rumi

 As she knotted the reins and took her stand, the horse's soul came into her
 hand, and up from the mouth that held the steel came an innermost word, half
 thought, half feel.~paraphrased, John Masefield

 Fly Without Wings  www.flywithoutwings.net
 Gestalt Practitioner  www.gestaltcleveland.org

 The FjordHorse List archives can be found at:
 http://tinyurl.com/rcepw

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Re: driving bits

2007-11-19 Thread Melinda Schumacher
This message is from: Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED]

sure!
Melinda


On Nov 19, 2007 8:25 PM, jen frame [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This message is from: jen frame [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Hi Melinda, I am sure that one can find Kimberwicke bits for much
 less--like $35 or so. But those are made in Pakistan and some are
 decent and others are awful.
 The specific Kimberwicke I am refering to is a Myler bit, and Myler
 bits are expensive!  The custom made Mylers are made in America and
 cost aproximately $140 or so. The pre-made Mylers are made in China,
 which I am not thrilled about, but the Myler brothers themselves
 inspect the Chinese made bits and have strict quality control, so they
 are probably the best Chinese made bits you could get. They too are
 expensive--like I said $110.00.
 Myler bits are supposedly worth the price!  I'll let you know if I end
 up buying one, what I think of it, if you are interested.
 Jen

 On 11/19/07, Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  This message is from: Melinda Schumacher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
  Kimberwicks cost $110?! Is that what you are saying?  Mine was $25 or
 $35.
  just curious about that,
  Melinda
 


Coaching with Melinda Schumacher, MD
Personal Empowerment through Creative Expression and Equine Experiential
Learning

You wander from room to room hunting for the diamond necklace that is
already around your neck.   ~Jalal-Uddin Rumi

As she knotted the reins and took her stand, the horse's soul came into her
hand, and up from the mouth that held the steel came an innermost word, half
thought, half feel.~paraphrased, John Masefield

Fly Without Wings  www.flywithoutwings.net
Gestalt Practitioner  www.gestaltcleveland.org

The FjordHorse List archives can be found at:
http://tinyurl.com/rcepw




driving bits

2007-11-18 Thread Carol Makosky

This message is from: Carol Makosky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Do any of you drive with a
Kimberwicke?

I think my friend used one when he owned his Fjord.  If it works well, then use 
it, I say.

--
Built Fjord Tough
Carol M.
On Golden Pond
N. Wisconsin

The FjordHorse List archives can be found at:
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