Re: fjord ideal weight

2005-05-19 Thread CHERYL GARNICA
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Good point on the nutrient/dust component.  Many of us at the mercy of the 
local feed store for hay however.  Remember reading an article where a trainer 
said you should have your hay analyzed for nutrition content.  Local feed store 
had a howling laugh at that one!  Quality  varies every load they get.  Funds 
not endless and many of us don't have the luxury of pastures growing out own 
food supply or ordering from all over the continent for the primo feed, don't 
even know where I would begin with that., I suppose like us humans the horses 
diet will be better some days than others and will survive with the supplements 
and over all  diet balances out..
 
I appreciate whoever wrote about the fjords being more fuel efficient.  I 
apparantly have one that is NOT an overeater.  Actually leaves food behind.  
Only been 2 weeks and does not appear to be losing wt.   ..kind of watching it 
overall and sounds like I will have to make feed adjustments.  Thanks to all 
for info. everyone...food for thought (pun inteneded!)
Cheryl in Ca. 

Warren Stockwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
This message is from: "Warren Stockwell" 

- Original Message - 
From: "Marsha Jo Hannah" 

> > CHERYL GARNICA wrote:
> >
> > I am a 2 week newbie fjord owner and wondered about the wt. issue. [...]
> > I am going by rule of thumb and feeding by weight, meaning feed 2%
> > of body wt.>
> I agree that hay ought to be fed by weight. Bales come in a lot of
> different sizes and densities, so it's hard to feed consistently based
> on bales, or flakes, or even inches.


No matter how you feed hay you need to be aware of the quality/ food value
of the hay you are feeding. I cut and bale my own so I know what I have.
Many horse owners don't have that luxury to know at what stage it is being
cut, and when it was baled.

I just did a job ( pet sitter ) where I was to feed 1 bale A.M and the bale
weighed at least 45 lbs. When I opened it up I found heavy packed dusty hay
with (I would bet if tested little food value). SO if fed by weight these
horses wouldn't get what was expected for food. I'm glad these horses have
pasture I would bet most of the hay will be left or stomped into the mud.
This was cut at the right stage ( looked like it ) but most likely baled to
early and to tight. Leaving moisture content to high and became dusty/
moldy. Reduced quality.

weight is good but you need to know the quality of what you have no matter
how you feed.





Re: fjord ideal weight

2005-05-19 Thread Warren Stockwell
This message is from: "Warren Stockwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

- Original Message - 
From: "Marsha Jo Hannah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> > CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I am a 2 week newbie fjord owner and wondered about the wt. issue. [...]
> > I am going by rule of thumb and feeding by weight, meaning feed 2%
> > of body wt.>
> I agree that hay ought to be fed by weight.  Bales come in a lot of
> different sizes and densities, so it's hard to feed consistently based
> on bales, or flakes, or even inches.


No matter how you feed hay you need to be aware of the quality/ food value
of the hay you are feeding. I cut and bale my own so I know what I have.
Many horse owners don't have that luxury to know at what stage it is being
cut, and when it was baled.

I just did a job ( pet sitter ) where I was to feed 1 bale A.M and the bale
weighed at least 45 lbs. When I opened it up I found heavy packed dusty hay
with (I would bet if tested little food value). SO if fed by weight these
horses wouldn't get what was expected for food. I'm glad these horses have
pasture I would bet most of the hay will be left or stomped into the mud.
This was cut at the right stage ( looked like it )  but most likely baled to
early and to tight. Leaving moisture content to high and became dusty/
moldy. Reduced quality.

weight is good but you need to know the quality of what you have no matter
how you feed.





Re: fjord ideal weight

2005-05-19 Thread Marsha Jo Hannah
This message is from: Marsha Jo Hannah <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I am a 2 week newbie fjord owner and wondered about the wt. issue. [...]
> I am going by rule of thumb and feeding by weight, meaning feed 2%
> of body wt. estimated as I do with the other horses.  The others
> will gain or lose depending on season or activity.  I will adjust
> feed by about a pound depending on the gain or loss.  It has worked
> pretty well for me with other horses with only a few changes in
> feed. In my area and probably everyone elses, the way they bale hay
> can be dense feed or pretty lose so weighing is safest way to go
>   Cheryl in Ca.

I agree that hay ought to be fed by weight.  Bales come in a lot of
different sizes and densities, so it's hard to feed consistently based
on bales, or flakes, or even inches.

However, for a maintenance ration on a lightly-used Fjord, I'd suggest
1.5% of body weight, per day, as a baseline, then adjust up/down as
needed.  Fjords are highly "fuel efficient", and will turn any extra
calories into fat.  (I once compared notes with a neighbor, and found
that I was feeding 2 Fjords and a donkey on what she was pouring into
1 TB gelding!)  Right now, my guys are getting grass hay at 1% of body
weight per day, plus 1 hour of pasture time (for which the tubby one
wears a grazing muzzle)---no grain, and just enough alfalfa hay
pellets to get them to eat their supplements.  They are slowly losing
weight on this, whereas the above, with 2 hours of pasture led to
weight gain.  Think air ferns

Marsha Jo HannahMurphy must have been a horseman--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   anything that can go wrong, will!
15 mi SW of Roseburg, Oregon





Re: fjord ideal weight

2005-05-17 Thread Reena Giola
This message is from: "Reena Giola" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Cheryl

thanks for bringing it up about the density.also the richness of the hay
has to be considered.   When we moved from CA to MI the hay was much richer in
CA, so a very small flake was requiredwe also do it by weight.and
after a while you can pretty much tell how much a flake
weighs...roughlyso when in MI I didn't realize how much less the
quality was..poor Gus was so hungry there as I had them feeding him a very
small amount after we arrived..then after I discovered the difference he
got a HUGE flake of hay, gosh sometimes it was up to 3 flakes, but loosely
packed and didn't weight much, nor was the hay very rich..and believe me,
he never got fat!!!

so it's not just the size of the flake, it's the quality of it and the weight
of it.

  This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  I
  I am going by rule of thumb and feeding by weight, meaning feed 2% of body
wt. estimated as I do with the other horses.  The others will gain or lose
depending on season or activity.  I will adjust feed by about a pound
depending on the gain or loss.  It has worked pretty well for me with other
horses with only a few changes in feed. In my area and probably everyone
elses, the way they bale hay can be dense feed or pretty lose so weighing is
safest way to go

  I





RE: fjord ideal weight

2005-05-17 Thread CHERYL GARNICA
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am a 2 week newbie fjord owner and wondered about the wt. issue.  The trusty 
measuring tape I think MIGHT be ballpark accurate within 100# or so, 
MAYBEdon't think it takes into consideration the heavier boned legs 
compared to other horses and who knows what is that makes fjords different!
 
I am going by rule of thumb and feeding by weight, meaning feed 2% of body wt. 
estimated as I do with the other horses.  The others will gain or lose 
depending on season or activity.  I will adjust feed by about a pound depending 
on the gain or loss.  It has worked pretty well for me with other horses with 
only a few changes in feed. In my area and probably everyone elses, the way 
they bale hay can be dense feed or pretty lose so weighing is safest way to 
go
 
I have no idea what the wt. of your horse should be...after looking at fjord 
ads and pics for 2 years and being a fjord novice, I would say depends on the 
type (drafty vx. light boned) and the muscling, muscle weighs more than fat but 
not sure the wt. tape picks that up.  I use the old eyeball approachthen 
pull out the wt. tape if they obviously are getting porky...
 
Dont' know if that helps and if there is a better method, I'm interested
Cheryl in Ca.