Re: [Frameworks] Hello - Curious about Double X 7222 reversal

[Jason Halprin]

To quote Robert Houlihan from a 2008 post on cinematography.com:

"We have run XX22 as reversal before, if run and shot normal (as 200iso) it
comes out very dark and muddy, you need to rate it as 50iso and or dump as
much light on as possible and run it in the reversal chemistry as a push 2
to get a relatively thick exposure, it will be nasty and grainy but if that
is what you are looking for... it is possible and we have run it here at
Cinelab you just need to have your lab run it as a push 2..."

(full thread here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=29949)

Any negative B (or even color) stock can be processed as reversal, but
require more initial exposure, something like 1.5-2 stops.

Hopefully someone on this list can give you a good estimate regarding
developing times & chemistry for 7222 (and a re-rated ISO), but if not, I
would test with a 1st developer time starting around the push-2 time
described above.

Good Luck,
Jason Halprin
jihalp...@gmail.com
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Re: [Frameworks] Hello - Curious about Double X 7222 reversal

[Jason Halprin]

Well, that would mean that you were approx 2 stops underexposed, so you
could try for a push-4 in the 1st developer, which is a little off the
charts. It might be worth shooting another roll with the same exposures
(rate at ISO 200, meter and expose according to the meter), and then test
development times using 10 ft strips. That would really be the only way to
know for sure, as a push-4 means your exposure was in the toe-area of the
characteristic curve (underexposed, ie most of what you exposed for would
be in the shadow area under regular development - you would only see
highlights as mid-tones, and mid-tones as shadow, shadows as full black).

What chemistry are you trying to use? I can try to lookup times for regular
processing (as reversal) and extrapolate from there.

-Jason Halprin

Jason Halprin
jihalp...@gmail.com

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Morgan Hoyle-Combs 
wrote:

> Well, the thing is I've already shot some indoors using a sekonic light
> meter. The ISO was 200 so I opened it up all the way to 1.9 and shot
> everything from 8 to 16 fps in the hopes to absorb more light. There were
> even moments I shot everything with a hand crank.
>
> Perhaps I would need clarification on what I should do next?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
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