Re: best ACTIVE list(s) for G4 PB info?

[Wallace Adrian D'Alessio]

On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 11:55 PM, J Winter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Posted to g4Books list. (Cross-posted to the more-active %3-5 list -
> Although it has desktop focus, many people there have laptops - and might be
> more likely to reply.)
> LEM G4books list is not very active. (Low subscriber-base?)
> What list(s) are best places to sink/find/share information about this
> particular computer? -- see specs, in signature.
> My major unanswered questions now are:
> 1. Advice on cost-conscious selection of hard-drive for internal replacement
> of original 10 gig drive. i.e. Something less than 100 gig is fine.
> Everything I see is bigger than that and more $ than I need for *internal*
> drive. If/when I need more than 100 gig drive, I would use external storage
> for that.
> 2. Advice on selecting fan/cooling pad for under laptop. There seem to be so
> many models. Lightweight and compact (portability) is a desired feature,
> even if I need 2 units: one for briefcase and a better one for  regular use.
> This Mac is my only working Mac, and I don't foresee another Mac soon,
> unless I resurrect something even older that it on-hand. So, I need advice
> on optimizing this machine for reliability and performance. Want to get most
> life out of this computer, until reason to replace with something else.
> Thanks.
>
> J Winter
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Power Book: That is  the original Titanium (Jan 2001), code-name "Mercury"
> 400 MHz Power PC G 4, 640 MB SDRAM, OS X 10.4.11
> Soon will increase to 1 GIG MEM and get larger hard drive, replace a few
> worn parts, etc.
> Open to ideas for best use(s) of PCMIA slot.
> Capability to add usage of Speech-dictation software (Mac Speech iListen) is
> a next goal, i.e., after hardware upgrades. Intended hardware changes now
> are likely to be "the last time" of opening this computer (barring unplanned
> necessity).
>
>
>
> --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~


Well you pretty much have it covered.  Crossposting used to be heavily
frowned on but no one cares much anymore.

I checked and see the G4book list has 314 members. I am surprised
there is no activity there. My theory is that Powerbook owners are end
users who do not think that they can successfully open their machines
and work on them. I think laptop users in general have this attitude
that they are afraid to open their machines lest they screw them up
worse. But then why subscribe to the G4book list?  Paradoxical I would
say.

Sorry I cannot help with your G4 as I do not have one of my own.
However since the questions seem to be rather general I can share my
thoughts.  I believe this machine takes an IDE drive, no?  So i assume
( abnd Bruce will correct me if I err here) that any 2.5 inch IDE
drive will work. You can look on the swap list or such places as Tiger
Direct. The smaller drives will be harder to find new. But you can use
more space anyway, right? For video playback be sure to get one that
has 7200 rpm or better.

A lot of my friends have had ;laptop cooling issues lately. I helped
one research the web. Most of the sites had airpassage specifications
in Cubic Feet Per Minute.CFM. So I suggest the wider models ) for 17
inch screen) and selecting the one with the highest CFM rating. If you
look hard enough you can find different prices for the same model and
select the lowest shipping charge too.

There, that wasn't so bad. Your questions were not necessarily G4
specific or even Mac specific after all

Good luck,

Adrian
.

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Re: PayPal Fraud...?

[Kris Tilford]

On Sep 13, 2008, at 12:31 AM, Carl Nygren wrote:

> I was going to log on to PayPal now, but a site popped up asking for
> name, address, credit card number, CVV2, date of credit card expiry,
> bank account info, and Social Security Number.
>
> What bothers me is a) Why would PayPal ask for this, and b) I live in
> Sweden and I am a Swedish citizen. :)
> I do not have a Social Security Number - since I do not live in the
> US.
>
> I did not submit any info at all.
> I did however send an email to PayPal asking how exactly they are
> expecting me to fill out this form.
> I've had to deal with their stupid tech support earlier and made it
> very clear that I am not a citizen or resident of the United States,
> that I have no such thing as a SSN, and that I am concerned about
> this. What if it is a scam?
> I submitted the email under the category "Password Problem" which was
> the most related category I could find.
>
> So what I'm trying to ask here is: has anyone else outside the States
> run into this?
> Is it a scam or is PayPal going nuts?

Scam.

> I know this is not related to Macs, but I figured I'd ask the smartest
> list first :)

> So Listers - what do you think of this?

You were smart enough to figure this, but scammers are getting pretty  
creative. Anytime PayPal emails you they always have your entire name,  
never "Dear PayPal User". Any email without your entire name is a  
spoof and should be reported to [EMAIL PROTECTED] As for a spoof popup  
window, this could be any number of things. Is it repeatable? Did you  
go directly to PayPal's secure login screen, the one that starts  
"https" rather than "http"; or did you use a link provided on another  
site? I think you've been spoofed for certain, and doubt it's  
repeatable (links may be in your browser history). Likely you made  
some type of error along the way and fell into a trap that you've  
successfully avoided. Gold star!




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PayPal Fraud...?

[Carl Nygren]

Hello all,

I was going to log on to PayPal now, but a site popped up asking for
name, address, credit card number, CVV2, date of credit card expiry,
bank account info, and Social Security Number.

What bothers me is a) Why would PayPal ask for this, and b) I live in
Sweden and I am a Swedish citizen. :)
I do not have a Social Security Number - since I do not live in the
US.

I did not submit any info at all.
I did however send an email to PayPal asking how exactly they are
expecting me to fill out this form.
I've had to deal with their stupid tech support earlier and made it
very clear that I am not a citizen or resident of the United States,
that I have no such thing as a SSN, and that I am concerned about
this. What if it is a scam?
I submitted the email under the category "Password Problem" which was
the most related category I could find.

So what I'm trying to ask here is: has anyone else outside the States
run into this?
Is it a scam or is PayPal going nuts?

I know this is not related to Macs, but I figured I'd ask the smartest
list first :)

So Listers - what do you think of this?

Carl


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best ACTIVE list(s) for G4 PB info?

[J Winter]

(sent to LEM g-books also) Pardon the duplication: wanted to show  
where it was sent. TIA for suggestions.


Posted to g4Books list. (Cross-posted to the more-active %3-5 list -  
Although it has desktop focus, many people there have laptops - and  
might be more likely to reply.)

LEM G4books list is not very active. (Low subscriber-base?)

What list(s) are best places to sink/find/share information about  
this particular computer? -- see specs, in signature.

My major unanswered questions now are:
1. Advice on cost-conscious selection of hard-drive for internal  
replacement of original 10 gig drive. i.e. Something less than 100  
gig is fine. Everything I see is bigger than that and more $ than I  
need for *internal* drive. If/when I need more than 100 gig drive, I  
would use external storage for that.
2. Advice on selecting fan/cooling pad for under laptop. There seem  
to be so many models. Lightweight and compact (portability) is a  
desired feature, even if I need 2 units: one for briefcase and a  
better one for  regular use.

This Mac is my only working Mac, and I don't foresee another Mac  
soon, unless I resurrect something even older that it on-hand. So, I  
need advice on optimizing this machine for reliability and  
performance. Want to get most life out of this computer, until reason  
to replace with something else.

Thanks.


J Winter
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Power Book: That is  the original Titanium (Jan 2001), code-name  
"Mercury"

400 MHz Power PC G 4, 640 MB SDRAM, OS X 10.4.11
Soon will increase to 1 GIG MEM and get larger hard drive, replace a  
few worn parts, etc.
Open to ideas for best use(s) of PCMIA slot.
Capability to add usage of Speech-dictation software (Mac Speech  
iListen) is a next goal, i.e., after hardware upgrades. Intended  
hardware changes now are likely to be "the last time" of opening this  
computer (barring unplanned necessity).




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best ACTIVE list(s) for G4 PB info?

[J Winter]

Posted to g4Books list. (Cross-posted to the more-active %3-5 list -  
Although it has desktop focus, many people there have laptops - and  
might be more likely to reply.)

LEM G4books list is not very active. (Low subscriber-base?)

What list(s) are best places to sink/find/share information about  
this particular computer? -- see specs, in signature.

My major unanswered questions now are:
1. Advice on cost-conscious selection of hard-drive for internal  
replacement of original 10 gig drive. i.e. Something less than 100  
gig is fine. Everything I see is bigger than that and more $ than I  
need for *internal* drive. If/when I need more than 100 gig drive, I  
would use external storage for that.
2. Advice on selecting fan/cooling pad for under laptop. There seem  
to be so many models. Lightweight and compact (portability) is a  
desired feature, even if I need 2 units: one for briefcase and a  
better one for  regular use.

This Mac is my only working Mac, and I don't foresee another Mac  
soon, unless I resurrect something even older that it on-hand. So, I  
need advice on optimizing this machine for reliability and  
performance. Want to get most life out of this computer, until reason  
to replace with something else.

Thanks.


J Winter
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Power Book: That is  the original Titanium (Jan 2001), code-name  
"Mercury"

400 MHz Power PC G 4, 640 MB SDRAM, OS X 10.4.11
Soon will increase to 1 GIG MEM and get larger hard drive, replace a  
few worn parts, etc.
Open to ideas for best use(s) of PCMIA slot.
Capability to add usage of Speech-dictation software (Mac Speech  
iListen) is a next goal, i.e., after hardware upgrades. Intended  
hardware changes now are likely to be "the last time" of opening this  
computer (barring unplanned necessity).




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Re: I don't dare shut down this Mac

[J Winter]

On Sep 9, 2008, at 1:20 AM, Tom wrote:

> My copy of Onyx says it won't work with 10.4, but I ran all the tasks
> MacJanitor could do.
>

What's the appropriate system maintenance tool(s) for 10.4.11 ?


> I'm still not going to shut this Mac down until I think it has some
> chance of starting up normally again.


BTDT. HTTS. Sounds like you've been given good advice.

J.

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Re: router recommendations?

[amorielljason]

 

 There is a button on the back which you push
> for 30 sec or so and this often fixes many issues. I only pushed the button in momentarily instead of a prolonged period but will try that now.Also does your
> router have the current firmware? Yes, I did check that within the Netgear software. Don't forget cables can also go bad etc.I thought about that but decided a bad cable would result in no websites working instead of occasionally ending up at godaddy.com instead of the proper site.Thank you.Jason

Re: router recommendations?

[Peter]

On Sep 12, 2008, at 2:26 PM, Richie wrote:

> Your ISP would have to provide them and the router would have to  
> have a provision for entering them. This is exactly what happened  
> at work but I should note that only one person contacted the ISP  
> and entered the fixed DNS number on his computer. You might have to  
> do that, bypassing the routers settings.

True, but there are usually a few "magic" DNSes floating around,  
which are so rock-solid that you can just about use them as if they  
were your ISPs.

You do not have to use your ISP's DNSes ... heck, you could even use  
your own DNSes, as a freebee DSN software package is available ...  
you could just as easily use another ISP's DNSes.



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Re: router recommendations?

[Richie]

On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 12:31 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  try fixed DNS entries and/or purchase a new router and take it back if it
> does not work. At work earlier this week there was a problem with the
> providers dns servers which can really mess things up. Lots of luck.
>
> Thank you.  What's the best way to try fixed DNS entries?  Googling that
> didn't shed much light on it.
>
> Jason
>
>
>
>
Your ISP would have to provide them and the router would have to have a
provision for entering them. This is exactly what happened at work but I
should note that only one person contacted the ISP and entered the fixed DNS
number on his computer. You might have to do that, bypassing the routers
settings.

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Re: router recommendations?

[Will S]

First off Netgear like most companies these days make good reliable
routers. So changing your brand of router isn't really the answer .
You either have some wrong settings on your current router or it's
defective. I used first a Dlink wired router for many years and only
had to replace because I wanted new features ( Wireless !) I've now
been using my Netgear WGR 614 Wireless for at least 4-5 years still
works fine. It's perhaps their cheapest model so price isn't always a
factor in how long things work . I'm not saying things last forever
they sure don't ;-) All companies make some defective items but nearly
all will replace under warranty as needed.
If you haven't already done so have you returned your router to
factory default settings? There is a button on the back which you push
for 30 sec or so and this often fixes many issues. Also does your
router have the current firmware? This can also fix things, upgrade is
easy to do .
If that doesn't work then you may need a new router. Don't forget
cables can also go bad etc. As far as brand goes I'm going to
recommend you ask a friend or consult a local fortune teller. These
days all the major brands make pretty good products and all companies
have a percentage of defective products. I understand the urge to try
a different brand after having bad luck with a product . Features you
want ,easy of use ,warranty and company reputation in solving issues
are what I'd look at.
If you want to see how strongly people feel about brands take a look
at topics recommending Hard drives. Read enough of these and you will
see rants on every brand ever made. The facts show that defective
products are pretty evenly spread out between the different major
brands . This hasn't always been the case but bad news travels fast
these days . Major defective items are mostly limited to a specific
model number these days rather then a brand. Best of luck .
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Re: G4 block on B&W G3

[Peter Mc Court]

On 11 Sep 2008, at 23:48, Dana Collins wrote:
>
>>
>> Greetings all,
>>
>> I imported a Sonnet 1MHz G4 Encore ZIF upgrade from the US to here in
>> Norway (the EU bans their sale in Europe due to lead content,
>> apparently) for installation into my B&W G3 rev1 Yosemite. However, I
>> simply cannot install the firmware modification software (in OS9.2.2)
>> from Sonnet, due to a bug they tell me. They advised me to zap the
>> PRAM and reselect the 9.2.2 start up folder, but this has not helped.
>> They then advised me to use the OSX version (in contradiction of  
>> their
>> own instructions in the box), but when I do this I get the dialog box
>> "Fatal error Cannot connect to ROM".  I've tried zapping the PRAM  
>> here
>> as well, but it does not help.
>>
>> Am I doomed to not install the card? Does anyone have a link to a  
>> site
>> with a firmware fix for this?
>>
>> Many thanx in advance,
>>
>> Peter, Tromsø, Norway
>> B&W G3 rev1 Yosemite, 12GB HD, 448 MB RAM, OS 9.2.2/OSX10.4.11,
>> firmware 1.1.1f4
>>
>
> Hello Peter,
> No, you are not doomed (:-)! My guess is that when trying to use  
> the OS X
> version of the ROM hack, you are trying to do it the same way one  
> does it in
> OS 9, which required a launching of the app., and an instructed  
> reboot while
> holding down the programmer's button.
> In OS X, simply reboot (after installing the Sonnet utility  
> software onto
> your hard drive) holding down the programmer button until you hear  
> the cute
> little beep - this opens the firmware. THEN run their software  
> utility.
> You get that error message because the firmware is not open.
>
> Here's what Neal at Sonnet tech told me:
> (quote):
>> hold the programmer's button in when you booted
>> the machine. You need to do that to open the firmware for
>> programming. That's where the OS X version differs from the OS 9. You
>> install our software. Shut down. Start up with programmer's button
>> held in. Let go when you hear the tone. The firmware is now open.
>> Then you run our software.
> (end quote)
>
> Hope this helps, Peter.
> Best regards,
> Dana
>
Many thanks, Dana - in fact, Neal from Sonnet also gave me careful  
instructions (like yours) on OSX firmware installation, and it  
worked. Unfortunately, the card does not yet (no chime, no beeps,  
nothing on start up) - however, I'm sure it will be solved with  
Neal's  (or anyone else's) input.
Peter
rev1 Yosemite, 12GB HD, 448 MB RAM, OS 9.2.2/OSX10.4.11 (no pci cards  
except for the original video card)
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Re: SATA cards was Re: Hard drive recommendations

[Peter]

On Sep 10, 2008, at 6:17 AM, J Winter wrote:

> Do you mean using eSATA as external drives?
>
> (I didn't think you are saying that this card allows you to use eSATA
> internally.)

The SiI 3132 is the chip type.

The chip may be operated in two modes: RAID mode and BASE mode.

Most of the PCI-E cards, which are used in desktops, are RAID mode,  
although some can be FLASHed to be BASE mode (BASE mode simulates an  
IDE drive to the host).

When used as n Express-34 card in a laptop, the card provides two  
eSATA (external SATA) ports, which are identical to the ports found  
on a PCI-E card.

Most of the Express-34 cards are BASE mode, and I am unaware of those  
which can be FLASHed to RAID mode as this requires a DOS system,  
although a Win-32 FLASHer is also available (a MacOS FLASHer is NOT  
available).

As I stated SiI3132 is included in many MacOS distributions, and if  
it is not, then the MacOS installer is freely available from the SiI  
web site.

After you insert the Express-32 card, you may then insert one or two  
eSATA (external SATA) cables (not generally included with the card),  
and each of the two ports supports a port multiplier, which provides  
for a five-to-one expansion of the available storage on each port.

It is thereby possible to connect 10 TB of external storage to a  
laptop, using a simple Express-34 card.

You need not buy a special Mac card, either. Just look for the  
Silicon Image 3132 designation in the description of the card. Almost  
every manufacturer of 3132 cards is using the SiI "reference design",  
so they all work alike, although some cost $40 and some cost $90.

If you have a PCI-E card, and it is in BASE mode, then your desktop  
has the same capabilities as described, above.


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Re: router recommendations?

[amorielljason]

try fixed DNS entries and/or purchase a new router and take it back if it does not work. At work earlier this week there was a problem with the providers dns servers which can really mess things up. Lots of luck.
 
Thank you.  What's the best way to try fixed DNS entries?  Googling that didn't shed much light on it.
 
Jason
 

Re: router recommendations?

[Sam Macomber]

RV042 is 10/100, so is the cheepie netgear...

>
>
> On Sep 12, 2008, at 7:57 AM, Sam Macomber wrote:
>
>> I got a netgear G something for $10 or so on black friday last
>> year...   works fine for my powerbook, Wii and DSs...No idea
>> how well the router works though just using it as a wireless access
>> point.  Got a linksys RV042 for router duty. (which is a very nice
>> piece of gear BTW)
>
> I generally go with AirLink101, Fry's Electronics "house brand".
>
> Router technology has reached the point where there are only a few so-
> called "standard designs".
>
> Most user interfaces have gone to the HTTP route, and almost all have
> the same windows and features within windows.
>
> A plus for the Airlink101 router is the WAN port is 10/100 half-/full-
> duplex (many routers are 10 half-duplex for the WAN port) so that
> secondary routers won't slow down the overall network, although the
> WAN port to the DSL or cable modem may still remain a choke-point, at
> least it may be the only one.
>
>
> >
>


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Re: Setting up a router with Verizon DSL

[Dan Auerbach]

On Sep 12, 2008, at 10:31 AM, R. A. Cantrell wrote:

>  I forget the brand of Modem/Router that has always given me fits,  
> but the model number I remember being 6100. HTH

The modem is a Westell 6100 and it's only a modem, not a router. It  
works very well with the 3 different Belkin Routers that I've used.  
The one that I'm using now is an N-1 and it set itself up just about  
automatically. I did get a defective one previously, the Belkin  
techs, 3 different ones, could not solve the problem... and they  
always do, referred me to Verizon to ask them to bridge the modem. I  
got one of those very good Verizon techs located in Mexico, who  
stayed on the phone for over 3 hours, bridging the modem, undoing it,  
bridging the router and trying everything I've ever seen tried. They  
were all unsuccessful because the router was unable to be its  
wireless self, working only in the cabled mode. I got a replacement  
N-1 router from Belkin and it virtually connected itself... of course  
after I connected all the cables and plugged it in. Getting into the  
router setup page in your browser is easy and the  documentation for  
it is clear and also available for and next to each setting choice on  
the router setup pages. I don't work for Belkin... just a slaphappy  
wireless surfer in the brilliance of the Bronx.

dan_A
 
=

 
=





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Re: Hard drive recommendations

[J Winter]

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Re: Hard drive recommendations

[J Winter]

At 2:32 PM -0700 9/9/08, J Winter wrote:
>
> Sorry, I am still confused. My only mac is G4 (7 yrs old, firewire
> 400) and I am seeking to replace original drive with something that
> meets current needs AND can be moved to external case (firewire
> 400/800) (or whatever is then current) WHEN I get newer computer -
> which is indeterminate future (vs. soon).  So, what drive do i get
> NOW, with intent to use it in future?


Hi J,

We were discussing desktop drives in this thread. That's probably the
source of the confusion. :)

Diane



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Re: SATA cards was Re: Hard drive recommendations

[J Winter]

On Sep 9, 2008, at 2:37 PM, Peter wrote:

>
>
> On Sep 9, 2008, at 2:22 PM, J Winter wrote:
>
>> With that in mind: Instead of what i had planned: internal drive of
>> under 100 gig, should I be getting some card for PCMIA slot that
>> would allow me to use a SATA (they're so less expensive) or some
>> other drive for internal use?
>
> For my Toshiba, I use an Express-34 card ... Silicon Image 3132 chip
> set ... and it is Mac compatible right out of the box.
>
> Well, you DO have to download the Mac OS drivers from SiI's web site,
> but the 3132 chip set is supported by MacOS.
>
> The 3132 supports "port multipliers", too, so you can have up to five
> SATA drives off of each of the two eSATA connections.
>
> You can get 3132 cards for desktops, too, but some are RAID-only, and
> have to be FLASHed to be BASE.
>
> For my work, I need lots of storage, particularly external storage.
>
> With eSATA being very economical now, and with it being so much
> faster than USB or Firewire, I see eSATA is the way to go.


Do you mean using eSATA as external drives?

(I didn't think you are saying that this card allows you to use eSATA  
internally.)

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Re: Hard drive recommendations

[J Winter]

On Sep 9, 2008, at 2:36 PM, diane wrote:

>
> At 2:32 PM -0700 9/9/08, J Winter wrote:
>>
>> Sorry, I am still confused. My only mac is G4 (7 yrs old, firewire
>> 400) and I am seeking to replace original drive with something that
>> meets current needs AND can be moved to external case (firewire
>> 400/800) (or whatever is then current) WHEN I get newer computer -
>> which is indeterminate future (vs. soon).  So, what drive do i get
>> NOW, with intent to use it in future?
>
>
> Hi J,
>
> We were discussing desktop drives in this thread. That's probably the
> source of the confusion. :)
>
> Diane


Close.  I know you are discussing desktop drives. And I understand  
that desktop drives differ from notebook drives.  I can't figure out  
the implications on the choice of notebook drives.  Sorry, but the  
membdership  and activity level on the notebook LEM list is too  
listtle to get responses. And, many people here seem to have both  
desktops and notebooks,  so this seems to be th epopulation to which  
to ask questions. No?



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Re: iTunes 8 ...

[insightinmind]

On Sep 12, 2008, at 11:49 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote:
>>
>> Guess there's always Tiger  ...
>
> This is going to be more and more common. 10.4 changed a very great
> deal 'under the hood' in OS X from 10.3, and 10.5 did more than that.
> Stuff marked 10.4 or higher appeared almost immediately after the
> release of 10.4.
>
> 10.4 is also faster than 10.3 on all but the very lowest end systems
> (and then really only when they're RAM starved).
>
> Is there a reason you're sticking with 10.3?

Its been working so well on my PowerMac 8500 and 9500 for awhile now.

Suggestions on where I might find Tiger CDs for Xpostfacto-ing my 
legacies, welcomed ... I'm ready for a change.

Have Leopard on my QS ... but skipped Tiger ...

Bill Connelly
Musician and Painter
artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio/
myspace.com:  http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio


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Re: iTunes 8 ...

[Bruce Johnson]

On Sep 11, 2008, at 6:46 PM, insightinmind wrote:

>
> Anyone else running hopefuls like Panther and disappointed with being
> somewhat left behind?
>
> Guess there's always Tiger  ...

This is going to be more and more common. 10.4 changed a very great  
deal 'under the hood' in OS X from 10.3, and 10.5 did more than that.  
Stuff marked 10.4 or higher appeared almost immediately after the  
release of 10.4.

10.4 is also faster than 10.3 on all but the very lowest end systems  
(and then really only when they're RAM starved).

Is there a reason you're sticking with 10.3?

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs



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Re: router recommendations?

[Richie]

On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 8:41 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>   The Netgear WGT624 wireless router attached to my dual G5 seems to have
> become unreliable.
> Apparently, it's having problems talking to ImOn's 5 DNS servers, because
> it find some websites successfully, but often produces an error msg. that
> the site has been parked by godaddy.com on other common sites that have
> worked and will often work a few minutes later.
>
> This problem never occurs when I bypass the router and even stopped for a
> little while when I tried a different port on the router, though that may
> have just been a coincidence since that port stopped working too.
>
> Does anyone have any wireless router recommendations that work well with
> both OS X and the occasional Windows interface?
>

Without everyone on the list chiming in with what they use which probably
won't help you, try fixed DNS entries and/or purchase a new router and take
it back if it does not work. At work earlier this week there was a problem
with the providers dns servers which can really mess things up. Lots of
luck.

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Newtwork icon on desktop

[RediG3-5]

mini g4 10.4.11

The Network icon suddenly showed up on the desktop.
Not a problem really, except I rarely make network connections
and wonder why it appeared.

comments appreciated
Cliff
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Re: router recommendations?

[Peter]

On Sep 12, 2008, at 7:57 AM, Sam Macomber wrote:

> I got a netgear G something for $10 or so on black friday last  
> year...   works fine for my powerbook, Wii and DSs...No idea  
> how well the router works though just using it as a wireless access  
> point.  Got a linksys RV042 for router duty. (which is a very nice  
> piece of gear BTW)

I generally go with AirLink101, Fry's Electronics "house brand".

Router technology has reached the point where there are only a few so- 
called "standard designs".

Most user interfaces have gone to the HTTP route, and almost all have  
the same windows and features within windows.

A plus for the Airlink101 router is the WAN port is 10/100 half-/full- 
duplex (many routers are 10 half-duplex for the WAN port) so that  
secondary routers won't slow down the overall network, although the  
WAN port to the DSL or cable modem may still remain a choke-point, at  
least it may be the only one.


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Re: router recommendations?

[Sam Macomber]

I got a netgear G something for $10 or so on black friday last  
year...   works fine for my powerbook, Wii and DSs...No idea how  
well the router works though just using it as a wireless access  
point.  Got a linksys RV042 for router duty. (which is a very nice  
piece of gear BTW)

-sam

> Linksys Wsomethinsomthin54G works great for our mixed household.
>
> On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 11:14 PM, BSugarberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
> wrote:
>
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have any wireless router recommendations that work  
> well with
> > both OS X and the occasional Windows interface?
> >
> > Thank you.
> > Jason
> > Cedar Rapids
>
> Hello,
>
> The 2Wire 2700HG-B.  (Used with ATT DSL).  Works perfectly with my
> Quicksilver 733 OS X 10.4.1, and my HP 864n Pentium 4 Windows XP PC.
>
> Bruce Sugarberg
>
>
> >


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Re: Setting up a router with Verizon DSL

[R. A. Cantrell]

Try setting up with just the modem and one computer. Also, many of the
"modems" sent out by Verizon are actually modem/routers (look on the bottom
and see if that is what the label says), and according to Verizon, must be
set into "bridge mode" in order to use them with an additional router. I've
never managed to get one of them set to "bridge mode" and have just given up
and used an old SpeedStream modem with my Linksys router. Also, try zapping
p-ram if you are getting a 169 IP address distributed by DHCP. IP addresses
that start with 169 are error codes. I don't know how to read them or to
find out how, but you might try Googling for it. Knowing it won't help, I
don't think, but it will give you something to do for six or eight hours
while you try to get through to one of the very few knowledgeable techs at
Verizon. I forget the brand of Modem/Router that has always given me fits,
but the model number I remember being 6100. HTH

On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 5:00 PM, Ken <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> My Reply follows quote. On 11/9/2008 14:31 [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
>
> >Thanks for the tip but I still don't have it working. Verizon is so
> >helpful. Tech support said I don't need a login name or password ( I don't
> >seem to if I just use the dsl modem) they also know my router works with
> >their system but they won't help me because it's not officially on the
> >"list".
> ---
> I know what you mean. I have talked to a couple of folks
> at verizon who seemed to know what they were doing, but
> they are rare!
>
> As a default, I suggest you power off the computer, router
> and DSL "modem." Connect the router to the modem and the
> computer to the router. Then power on othe modem, then
> power on the router, then power on the computer.
>
> Fire up your web browser and log into the router. (Should
> be <192.168.1.1>)
>
> If it is a new router, the username and password fields
> should both be "admin".
>
> Now the setup guide says to use PPOE for DSL, but I can
> never get this to work.  I use "Dynamic IP (DHCP)."
>
> According to the setup guide, you should be able to
> just click  "apply" quit the page and connect to the
> net "wired."
>
> The wireless side takes a few more steps, but  the
> first  thing  is to make sure you can connect the
> "old fashioned way."
>
> Ken
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/res7gt1w/stackomacs
>
>
>  >
>


-- 
All the best,

R.A. Cantrell

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Re: router recommendations?

[R. A. Cantrell]

Linksys Wsomethinsomthin54G works great for our mixed household.

On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 11:14 PM, BSugarberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have any wireless router recommendations that work well with
> > both OS X and the occasional Windows interface?
> >
> > Thank you.
> > Jason
> > Cedar Rapids
>
> Hello,
>
> The 2Wire 2700HG-B.  (Used with ATT DSL).  Works perfectly with my
> Quicksilver 733 OS X 10.4.1, and my HP 864n Pentium 4 Windows XP PC.
>
> Bruce Sugarberg
>
> >
>


-- 
All the best,

R.A. Cantrell

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Re: Good Housekeeping

[R. A. Cantrell]

Yes it was, and thanks. I mentioned zapping p-ram in regard to networking,
and I have found that when setting up a household network for sharing a DHCP
connection, that sometimes the reason it won't release (re-lease) and gives
a 169 error can be remedied by zapping p-ram.

On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 9:29 AM, nestawasright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> A great post. Thanks Bruce.
>
> Mykel
>
> On Sep 10, 11:46 am, Bruce Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>  > On Sep 10, 2008, at 9:04 AM, R. A. Cantrell wrote:
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >  There's a thread right now about p-lists, which brings to
> > > mind the
> > > general state of Mac Os and maintenance
> > > I think that the p-list problems are handled by Onyx and MacJanitor
> >
> > No they're not. Onyx and MacJanitor maiinly manage the regular cron
> > jobs and deal with other things like caches.
> >
> > > and are
> > > analogous to Windows registry problems that are handled by Abexo and
> > > so
> > > forth.
> >
> > Sort of.
> >
> > .plist files are directly analogous to the old Mac Prefs files.
> >
> > > Zapping p-ram on Macs handles a lot of irritating minor problems,
> > > particularly with networking.
> >
> > No that shouldn't have anything to do with networking.
> >
> > > (what is analogous to zapping P-ram in
> > > Windows?)
> > > I've read lately that with the advent of Leopard that you no
> > > longer need to repair permissions. Is that correct? I've also read
> > > that disk
> > > defragmenters like Disk Warrior have been rendered unnecessary by
> > > Leopard.
> >
> > Disk Warrior is not a defragmenter, it rebuilds directory trees.
> >
> >
> >
> > > Is that true. Would some up-to-date lister please post a "State of
> > > the OS"
> > > regarding disk and system (including anti-ware) maintenance?
> >
> > Disk Maintenance:
> >
> > Maintain a current backup.
> > Shut down properly when at all possible.
> > Use a good quality UPS on your system. This is not so much for surge
> > protection or as wtom would have us believe lightning protection, but
> > because a good regulated piwer source will prolong the life of any
> > electronic device.
> >
> > OS X has ALWAYS, not just since Leopard, done a considerable degree of
> > defragmentation as a built-in part of the OS. The ONLY time an actual
> > defragmentation program would do you any good is when you're working
> > with volumes that have large files that turn over a lot, that is
> > mostly full all the time, such as volumes with big video or audio
> > projects on them, or lots of RAW photo processing.
> >
> > If you do this, it's more cost effective to use a separate drive for
> > your media and work files, back 'em up regularly, then erase and
> > restore the data.
> >
> > This does TWO very important things:
> >
> > Defragments your work volume, and tests your backups.
> >
> > That's it. Contrary to popular belief, the file system in OS X is
> > quite robust, and does not need 'routine maintenance'.
> >
> > Disk Warrior is a emergency tool, not a preventative one.
> >
> > System Maintenance:
> >
> > Let the system run overnight on a regular basis, or use Onyx,
> > MacJanitor & the like to do the routine Unix administrivia tasks OS X
> > has built in.
> >
> > That's it. Contrary to popular belief OS X is a robust operating
> > system quite capable of running for weeks or months without issues. My
> > current uptime is 27 days, on a system that's banged on pretty heavily.
> >
> > If you're having problems, especially in 109.4 or 10.5 try rebooting
> > in safe mode...this gets rid of a lot of often problematic cache files.
> >
> > Anti-ware:
> >
> > I'm anti.
> >
> > Contrary to popular opinion, OS X is NOT subject to viruses or
> > spyware, and it is virtually impossible to 'accidentally infect' some
> > poor friend running Windows. It would require a deliberate act.
> >
> > To those folks who insist "Just wait, your time is coming!!!" I say,
> > one, if OSX was infected according to it's market share there should
> > be thousands of viruses out there for it, and two, it is the
> > fundamental design of OS X that helps prevent malware from spreading.
> >
> > In Windows (until Vista, that is) if you're an Administrator, any
> > process you own can do anything it wants to the system.
> >
> > In OS X, if your an Administrator, any process you own can ASK for
> > permission to do something to your system.
> >
> > While it's entirely possible to construct malware that'll run quite
> > happily on OS X, the crucial part...getting it to run without asking
> > you for permission...has so far proven impossible to achieve.
> >
> > OSX IS vulnerable to cross-platform malware...I myself got caught by
> > that damned flash crap that took over the clipboard that was going
> > round last month. 
> >
> > That said, no antivirus WE tested caught it, nor did any anti-spyware
> > software catch it.
> >
> > Unlike Windows, however, that was the end of what can be done, again,
> > becaus