Re: Removing Heat Sink from Sonnet G4 upgrade card
If this is the first time you replace a heatsink, then first read up on what is involved. Look on the web, but here's the main points: The metal of the heatsink doesn't sit on the processor directly. There is a thin layer of thermo paste between the two, because otherwise the two hard surfaces would not have proper contact. Sometimes a new heatsink comes with a layer of that stuff applied, or the existing layer is still OK. But to be prepared, you would need a plastic business card (to remove most of the paste), acetone and cotton swabs to remove the rest, then alcohol to really clean the surface. And of course new thermo paste. Maybe you know all this, but I thought it better to make sure and punch in some lines before you damage a nice CPU! Usually, Sonnet upgrades are well-designed, meaning that they have appropriate heatsinks or work with the heatsinks on the CPUs they replace. How do you determine that your model is generating too much heat? Did you tell the support guy the temperature? You're not overclocking it, are you -- or using it on a higher system bus speed than it's meant for? That's my 2¢... -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Moribund G4 iBook - and will the DVD drive fit in my MacBook?
On Jul 27, 3:02 am, Jim Scott jesco...@gmail.com wrote: On Jul 26, 2011, at 6:28 PM, Deiniol ap Deiniol wrote: I've been given an iBook G4 to look at. This was apparently working fine then 'died'. It is a 1.2GHz, with 256MB memory, 80GB hd and combo drive. Try an Open Firmware set immediately after pushing the power button: Hold down Command, Option, O and F (you may need to wait a good long while for the grey screen to come up). Hi Jim thanks for your quick reply. Tried this straight away - only getting round to replying now due to being at work etc! Whether the grey OF screen comes up or not, after a reasonable wait, type these three lines, hitting Return at the end of each: set-defaults (return) reset-nvram (return) reset-all (return) Nothing on screen, although once I caught a little grey flicker. After the third Return, the iBook may well chime and restart. If not, try the same procedure while putting some pressure on the case in the lower left corner of the keyboard (to see the video chip has broken solder joints). If after several attempts the screen doesn't light up or you get no chime, yep, the logic board's toast. But if you get a chime and hear hard drive activity, you may be looking at a broken LVDS or inverter cable, so wiggle the screen open and closed to see if that gets anything going. No change after trying this a couple of times. I haven't tried the 'pressure application' ye. I will try this tomorrow when I getr back from work.t A shame because the machine is in very nice condition - indeed a lot better than my very scruffy mid 2007 MacBook, which I got for a very good price due to the optical drive being dead! I use external FW drives with the MacBook, but does anyone know if the optical drive from the iBook is physically and electronically compatible with the MacBook one? I know I could just by a new optical but I'm a guy who likes recycling where possible. Nope, a MacBook requires a slim 9.5 mm optical drive, which means no drive from an iBook or PowerBook will fit. Been dere, done dat too. Sigh oh well thanks for answering that one! If I can't get it to go I'll see if she wants to sell the rather nice Power Siupply, which I assume will be OK for my two G3 Powerbooks.? I haven't put my multimeter across it yet, but it seems to be the same size chunky connector. All the best, Dan. Jim Scott -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Moribund G4 iBook - and will the DVD drive fit in my MacBook?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 7:49 AM, Deiniol ap Deiniol wrote: Sigh oh well thanks for answering that one! If I can't get it to go I'll see if she wants to sell the rather nice Power Siupply, which I assume will be OK for my two G3 Powerbooks.? I haven't put my multimeter across it yet, but it seems to be the same size chunky connector. IIRC the g4 iBooks are the same as the G4 powerbooks: same voltage, same connector style, different size. -- Bruce Johnson Wherever you go, there you are B. Banzai, PhD -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Removing Heat Sink from Sonnet G4 upgrade card
On Jul 27, 9:19 am, Maccountant gsuc...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone done this before? I purchased a Sonnet G4 1.8gz MDX for my G4 single 1.25 MDD. It works fine but generates too much heat, even with the built-in fan. I want to remove the heatsink and replace it with an Apple copper one from a 1.45 G4 that I have but the Sonnet is screwed in in a proprietary way. I contacted Sonnet but the guy just said they attached it in such a way so customers won’t remove it. Big help. Has anyone done such a thing and can tell me what kind of tool I need? i second the suggestion from pete. just add another fan to the heatsink. you can get them at radioshack fairly cheap, or online. but you will also want to have a way to power it, so you'll need MOLEX plug adapter or a splitter. if there are unused MOLEX plugs in your computer (eg, for unused HD bays), an adapter will allow the leads from the fan to connect to the MOLEX to get 12v for the fan. if all your MOLEX connectors are in use, the there are splitter type adapters that will allow you to keep all your devices powered and tap into one of them to connect the power leads to the fan. as for removing the heatsink and replacing it, geke is correct that there needs to be thermal paste, but i caution you about doing that, especially about applying thermal paste. virtually everyone gets this wrong and uses WAY TOO MUCH paste. it is a silicone compound, and like all covalently bonded compounds, it is NOT a good thermal conductor. NOTHING is as effective as direct contact between the chip and the heatsink. the function of the paste is to fill in microscopic gaps that are present when any two flat surfaces are pressed together. invariably, everyone applies too much paste and it ends up preventing direct contact between the chip surface and the heatsink. if the proper amount of thermal paste is used, it will be almost invisible over most of the surface of the chip. i have seen apple computers shipped from the factory with egregiously excessive amounts of thermal paste, particularly the G4 PB's, and they were notorious for processor failure for exactly that reason. so rather than trying to shoehorn the copper Apple heatsink onto the Sonnet processor, you might want to remove the Sonnet heatsink just to see if someone has already gooped it up with an excessive amount of thermal paste, and if so, remove the excess. however, DO NOT use acetone to clean the CPU chip. that's just plain crazy. acetone is a powerful solvent, and while it will not attack the plastic of the CPU chip itself, it could damage any adjacent CB components with which it comes into contact. wipe the heatsink and CPU chip thoroughly with a clean soft cotton cloth or a cotton Q-tip moistened with a little isopropyl rubbing alcohol. apply fresh (NON-METALLIC) thermal paste judiciously and SPARINGLY then press the heatsink and CPU together firmly. if any paste squeezes out, you've used too much. wipe it from the edges and press them together firmly again. when you pull them apart, the surface of the chip and the heatsink that are in contact should appear virtually clean, ie, barely a haze of thermal paste in a few spots only. THAT is the PROPER amount of thermal paste. if yours has too much paste on it, removing the excess will make it run MUCH cooler. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Moribund G4 iBook - and will the DVD drive fit in my MacBook?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 7:49 AM, Deiniol ap Deiniol wrote: After the third Return, the iBook may well chime and restart. If not, try the same procedure while putting some pressure on the case in the lower left corner of the keyboard (to see the video chip has broken solder joints). If after several attempts the screen doesn't light up or you get no chime, yep, the logic board's toast. But if you get a chime and hear hard drive activity, you may be looking at a broken LVDS or inverter cable, so wiggle the screen open and closed to see if that gets anything going. No change after trying this a couple of times. I haven't tried the 'pressure application' ye. I will try this tomorrow when I getr back from work.t All of the manipulations, keyboard commands and tricks I mentioned are what I use to determine whether a 'Book has the dreaded loose video chip problem. White G3 iBooks, G4 iBooks and some G4 PowerBooks tend to develop broken solder joints. They are surface mounted to the logic board using about 500 tiny little solder balls. Such a technique is called BGA for ball grid array. The footprint of each joint is smaller than a dot made by pencil on paper. So it doesn't take much in the way of board flex combined with faulty/poor solder and many, many heat/cool cycles before one of the aforementioned 'Books develops a crack in one or more solder joints. Vast amounts of 700-900 MHz white G3 iBooks have had this problem, largely because the video chip is on the bottom side of the logic board with nothing more than a thick thermal pad to clamp it in place. Those G3 iBook cases, frames and screws don't stay very well torqued together, and the result is loose screws, cracked cases and often broken frames as the laptops are used and moved about. Thus enter board flex and loose solder joints. For some reason -- I suspect better solder and better soldering -- first-generation 500 and 600 MHz white iBooks have much lower BGA video chip failure rates, in my experience. G4 iBooks have a different design where the cpu, Northbridge chip and video chip are on the top of the logic board in more or less a row where they are physically clamped to the logic board by a sturdy heat sink. However, the clamping studs and screws also loosen over time and the same broken solder joint phenomenon occurs with G4 iBook video chips. For a long time, it was thought that G4 iBooks were immune to the G3 iBook loose video chip problem, but I think that was because the heat sink clamping force was preventing early failures. Interestingly, the last four iBooks I have worked on all have exhibited video problems similar to those you have described, which means Apple's redesign of the case, frame and addition of a clamped heat sink merely delayed the onset of loose video chips in G4 iBooks. The case design is the enemy. There are too many screws, most of which loosen over time as a result of vibration and use, and those screws are the only means of assuring a rigid and stable platform for the logic board. Every iBook I work on has a bunch of loose screws that used to hold the logic board tight to the skinny frame. Note that Apple's current portable devices are fairly rigid Unibody units milled from solid aluminum or plastic, with very few screws. Apple still uses surface mount BGA attachment technology, but the current case designs are so rigid that I seriously doubt MacBooks will have loose video chips as the years pass, at least not from case/board flex. My advice to clients whose iBooks have developed the video chip problem is to not pour any more money into their machines. New logic boards are rare and pricey; used ones that still work will develop the same problem sooner or later. And, most importantly, even the late-2005 end-of-the-line G4 iBooks are quickly becoming marginal performers that are too pokey to provide snappy performance. Besides, they can't run either Snow Leopard or Lion. If I can't get it to go I'll see if she wants to sell the rather nice Power Siupply, which I assume will be OK for my two G3 Powerbooks.? I haven't put my multimeter across it yet, but it seems to be the same size chunky connector. An iBook G4 AC adapter will work with all white G3 and G4 iBooks, and with all G4 PowerBooks. But the barrel size of the adapter is smaller than the ones used by G3 PowerBooks and the clamshell G3 iBooks. Newer MacBooks, of course, use the MagSafe AC adapter, a totally different design. Jim Scott -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
defragging ?
Back in the OS 9 days defragging seemed essential at least on my 5300 PB. Now in Tiger and above, I'm wondering if it remains a useful or even necessary maintenance option. I suppose there are more than one defrag softwares out there. This is the one that showed up on MacZot http://www.stellardefragdrive.com/ Thanks Cliff -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: defragging ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:01 AM, Cliff Rediger wrote: Back in the OS 9 days defragging seemed essential at least on my 5300 PB. Now in Tiger and above, I'm wondering if it remains a useful or even necessary maintenance option. Unnecessary, and potentially hazardous, as it does, remotely, put your system at risk for serious directory corruption if something happens while it's running. Two reasons: OS X has a form of this built into the OS, as files are saved the system tries to keep them together. Disk IO is such that there's just not the kinds of noticeable lag there used to be. There are still a few times where defragging is warranted, but they're rare or specialized (such as video editing on a large scale), so that the preferred Defrag is backup, reformat, restore. For video projects you should really have an entire drive designated for your working one, and reformat it between projects. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: defragging ?
At 10:01 AM -0700 7/28/2011, Cliff Rediger wrote: Back in the OS 9 days defragging seemed essential at least on my 5300 PB. yes. Now in Tiger and above, I'm wondering if it remains a useful or even necessary maintenance option. Search our group archives. We have discussed this, in detail, repeatedly. The HFS+file system in OS X doesn't fragment like the old one did, and... Tiger and newer have mechanisms built-in that handle the defragging in the background. I suppose there are more than one defrag softwares out there. This is the one that showed up on MacZot http://www.stellardefragdrive.com/ Yea. It's a lost market looking to make $ off of the unwashed masses. While yer at it, buy the most expensive anti-virus package you can find. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Removing Heat Sink from Sonnet G4 upgrade card
On Jul 27, 8:19 am, Maccountant gsuc...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone done this before? I purchased a Sonnet G4 1.8gz MDX for my G4 single 1.25 MDD. It works fine but generates too much heat, even with the built-in fan. I want to remove the heatsink and replace it with an Apple copper one from a 1.45 G4 that I have but the Sonnet is screwed in in a proprietary way. I contacted Sonnet but the guy just said they attached it in such a way so customers won’t remove it. Big help. Has anyone done such a thing and can tell me what kind of tool I need? I am not familiar with it. Did they use those funny screws with the star or hex pattern and little nipple in the center? If so, you can buy the bits at a specialty fastener store and probably on-line if you can figure out what it is called. Here in Austin, we have Austin Bolt Company and American Bolt Company which pretty much carry every fastener and fastener related tool known to man. Jeff Walther -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: defragging ?
On Jul 28, 10:17 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: Unnecessary, and potentially hazardous, as it does, remotely, put your system at risk for serious directory corruption if something happens while it's running. There are still a few times where defragging is warranted, but they're rare or specialized (such as video editing on a large scale), so that the preferred Defrag is backup, reformat, restore. For video projects you should really have an entire drive designated for your working one, and reformat it between projects. Thank you Bruce Dan. As usual very good advise Cliff -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Removing Heat Sink from Sonnet G4 upgrade card
On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:45 AM, t...@io.com wrote: Did they use those funny screws with the star or hex pattern and little nipple in the center? If so, you can buy the bits at a specialty fastener store and probably on-line if you can figure out what it is called. These are called 'security' bits and are quite readily available http://tinyurl.com/434au7b. This should cover any one you'll run into. Harbor Freight has a 100-piece set on sale for $8 right now. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
I've been monitoring discussions on Apple's OS progression and the changes in hardware requirements. Since I'm running a Mini G4, I feel I'm rapidly receding into antiquity. The main issues are CPU speed and the ever increasing number of cool 10.5+ only apps. I've lived with the speed thing because my WiFi ISP speed has been limited. However, now they've increased their bandwidth, so I can get up to more commonly reasonable internet speeds. Here's my OS/software criteria: **Accept that Classic is no longer an option (run separate machine if necessary) **Want to retain PPC apps for now, so need Rosetta and apparently can only max at 10.5 OS **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. **Would like best video card/system possible ** Assume a Mini is most affordable option So, I'm hoping for some advise or direction on which generation of Mini would/could maximize my options. I understand that this might be a Mini forum topic, and happy to migrate if necessary. Thank you Cliff Love's Point Blog: http://4lovespoint.wordpress.com/ (new post 6/30/11) Peace-Gardens.us:http://peace-gardens.us/ (updated regularly) Not-Two-Is-Peace: http://www.ispeace723.org/ -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 11:17 AM, Cliff Rediger wrote: I've been monitoring discussions on Apple's OS progression and the changes in hardware requirements. Since I'm running a Mini G4, I feel I'm rapidly receding into antiquity. The main issues are CPU speed and the ever increasing number of cool 10.5+ only apps. I've lived with the speed thing because my WiFi ISP speed has been limited. However, now they've increased their bandwidth, so I can get up to more commonly reasonable internet speeds. Here's my OS/software criteria: **Accept that Classic is no longer an option (run separate machine if necessary) Or Sheepshaver, or keep the G4 mini around for this purpose. **Want to retain PPC apps for now, so need Rosetta and apparently can only max at 10.5 OS 10.6, actually, which is much better than 10.5 for an Intel-based mac. **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. Only the boot drive needs to do this. **Would like best video card/system possible This requirement is in minor conflict with... ** Assume a Mini is most affordable option ..this requirement. Within these constraints, the best option is the next-to current generation of Mini. They run 10.6. they've got the best performance of all of them. Any intel-based mini will blow the socks off your current G4, the one you get is determined by the size of your pocketbook... On the other hand, also look at early gen Intel Macbooks. Macbook Pros, and iMacs; the Core Duo versions will rapidly depreciate in value because they're incapable of running 10.7. Since your requirement to run Rosetta is in place, they'll do admirably, as all run 10.6.8 just fine, and will also be a dramatic improvemnt in performance over your G4. They also have better video than the Mini's do. On the gripping hand, a Hack is also a possibility, they can be quite inexpensive for a high-performanse system...at the cost of some to a lot of geekification working it out and getting it running, as in ording the parts and putting it together and shouting it's ALIIVE BWahahahahah! when it first boots up :-). While building your own frankemMac out of PC parts isn't the daunting challenge it used to be, it sure as heck isn't as simple as a real mac. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 11:17 AM, Cliff Rediger wrote: **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. Also this is a matter of reformatting the drive, not getting a new one or anything like that. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 11:17 AM, Cliff Rediger wrote: Here's my OS/software criteria: **Accept that Classic is no longer an option (run separate machine if necessary) **Want to retain PPC apps for now, so need Rosetta and apparently can only max at 10.5 OS **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. **Would like best video card/system possible ** Assume a Mini is most affordable option So, I'm hoping for some advise or direction on which generation of Mini would/could maximize my options. I understand that this might be a Mini forum topic, and happy to migrate if necessary. Since you are limiting your hardware consideration to the Mac minis, LEM operates a Mac mini Group with about four hundred members: http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/macmini.html The Apple Support Communities (old name Apple Discussions) include a much more active Mac mini Forum, with almost 21,000 discussions at last count: https://discussions.apple.com/community/desktop_computers/mac_mini Fabian -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: defragging ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:40 AM, Dan wrote: Yea. It's a lost market looking to make $ off of the unwashed masses. While yer at it, buy the most expensive anti-virus package you can find. - Dan. ROFL, I JUST got an email in my inbox from Prosoft offering me Drive Genius and Intego Virus Barrier for ONLY $120! Woo Hoo! A defragger and antivirus bundle of uselessness! -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: defragging ?
At 12:21 PM -0700 7/28/2011, Bruce Johnson wrote: On Jul 28, 2011, at 10:40 AM, Dan wrote: Yea. It's a lost market looking to make $ off of the unwashed masses. While yer at it, buy the most expensive anti-virus package you can find. ROFL, I JUST got an email in my inbox from Prosoft offering me Drive Genius and Intego Virus Barrier for ONLY $120! Woo Hoo! A defragger and antivirus bundle of uselessness! I think someone recently trolled the mac utility companies, to create ads. Starting to see quite a few as pop-ups/unders. So far I haven't really seen any that do more than ClamXav and OnyX and AppleJack... Somebody must be buyin tho, to make it all worthwhile. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
On Jul 28, 11:38 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. Also this is a matter of reformatting the drive, not getting a new one or anything like that. -- look at early gen Intel Macbooks. Macbook Pros, and iMacs Bruce, I like the idea of looking at the books. would provide some versatility and good point about the video. I'm presuming by early gen you mean 32 bit architecture. Which raises a question about compatibility with iPads etc. Are not the latest iPads 64 bit arch.? Of course, that's a future consideration. Also, to be clear, you're saying that 10.6.8 is compatible with Rosetta? and my external drives merely need reformating to GUID? Good lead to the Apple Discussion Fabian. I've been there and will consult them as well. But, this list seems so much like family that I always think here first. Cliff -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
Re: Stop gap hardware recommendations ?
On Jul 28, 2011, at 6:00 PM, Cliff Rediger wrote: On Jul 28, 11:38 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: **Cannot afford to change/upgrade my HDs to GUID. Also this is a matter of reformatting the drive, not getting a new one or anything like that. -- look at early gen Intel Macbooks. Macbook Pros, and iMacs Bruce, I like the idea of looking at the books. would provide some versatility and good point about the video. I'm presuming by early gen you mean 32 bit architecture. Yes. Which raises a question about compatibility with iPads etc. Are not the latest iPads 64 bit arch.? Of course, that's a future consideration. That's not material to iPad support. Also, to be clear, you're saying that 10.6.8 is compatible with Rosetta? Yes. Rosetta is part of 10.6 as well. and my external drives merely need reformating to GUID? Only if the intent is to have them be bootable. Data storage drives can be any format. This is an option when setting up the partition scheme. -- Bruce Johnson Wherever you go, there you are B. Banzai, PhD -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
