Re: MDD problem

2011-03-05 Thread theleaddog
I guess I didn't write well. There is the screw that goes through the
heatsink/cpu assembly and then there are several more screws that go
through the mobo...three IIRC. You'll notice there are a couple
chassis tangs at the edge of the board that it hooks or slides onto.
If you didn't remove the old thermal-conductive compound between the
heatsink and the cpu, you missed an opportunity. Pull up a flash file
and run it a few minutes to see how hot (Temperature Monitor.app) the
processors get. IF 143F, THEN okay, ELSE redo the compound.  :-)  The
dual processors are only useful if the application is written to use
them or you're multitasking. I think a flash video might use both
(Activity Monitor.app).

On Mar 3, 10:48 am, Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for your input. I tried to remove the board, removed the
 heatsink and the one screw that is supposed to hold the mobo down and
 tried to slide the board out. It wouldn't budge so I left everything
 in place and only replaced the PSU and the fans, the main fan I have
 is a very quiet German Papst fan.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-03-04 Thread Jörg Duurkoop
Hi Clark,

I don't know why. I like the old Adobe apps because I worked a lot
with them professionally. But since I installed CS2 on my Tiger disk I
could not start them any more using Classic. I could and can in
Panther though.  I don't like to start natively in OS9 although I had
to do that in order to use my SCSI-scanner and MOD drives. OSX also
should recognize my scanner via the Adaptec SCSI-card but VueScan
never finds a scanner.

Also when I had installed CS 2 on my MDD under Tiger I couldn't use
CS2 under Panther any more because I have only a license for one
computer. After dismounting my Tiger disks in Panther they worked fine
again. Now even with the Tiger disks mounted CS2 workes flawlessly in
Panther and all old Adobe apps, too (Photoshop 4, Illustrator 9,
Acrobat 4 - they are much faster under Classic in OSX than CS2 and
start in a flash).

At least after the recent swap my Logitech webcam is recognized in
Tiger too and its mic also as unknown USB-device. And I found that
video performance is much better now. When I watch YouTube videos they
don't hiccup anymore but both processors appear to work at 100 percent
sometimes ;-)

My best regards to everyone here,

Jörg.

On 3 mrt, 20:23, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:
 On Mar 3, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Jörg Duurkoop wrote:

  Hi Thomas,

  Thanks for your input. I tried to remove the board, removed the
  heatsink and the one screw that is supposed to hold the mobo down and
  tried to slide the board out. It wouldn't budge so I left everything
  in place and only replaced the PSU and the fans, the main fan I have
  is a very quiet German Papst fan.

 I replaced the motherboard on one of my QuickSilvers.  I was using  
 the iFixit instructions and when it got to the point of removing the  
 motherboard it would budge either.  It turned out that some of the  
 standoffs that hold the processor were screwed through the board into  
 standoffs mounted to the case.  Those standoffs were NOT in the  
 instructions.  Once I removed those the board slid out easily.



  All is working again and the Finder and startup seem a little faster
  but not much. It looks like the implementation of the second processor
  is not very good. I'm running the latest Tiger version mostly - if I
  want to use heritage Adobe apps I have to switch back to good ole
  Panther.

 Why?  I have the set of Adobe apps that are Carbon and they are still  
 working under Snow Leopard.









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Re: MDD problem

2011-03-03 Thread Jörg Duurkoop
Hi Thomas,

Thanks for your input. I tried to remove the board, removed the
heatsink and the one screw that is supposed to hold the mobo down and
tried to slide the board out. It wouldn't budge so I left everything
in place and only replaced the PSU and the fans, the main fan I have
is a very quiet German Papst fan.

All is working again and the Finder and startup seem a little faster
but not much. It looks like the implementation of the second processor
is not very good. I'm running the latest Tiger version mostly - if I
want to use heritage Adobe apps I have to switch back to good ole
Panther.

Best regards, Jörg.

On 3 mrt, 06:40, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com wrote:
 The DP board will fit and work. Probably a good idea to push the PMU
 button (not called CUDA in the MDD) once you get everything back
 together in the event that the former owner had some hardware attached
 which you don't. The replacement is fairly straight forward: unplug
 all cables/wires from mobo, remove all PCI cards, unscrew the board,
 and slide out. IIRC, there are only a few screws but I think you also
 have to remove a screw that holds the processor/heat sink assembly to
 the board. Take a look at the new board to see if one has been
 removed when it was taken out of its case. Here's some further
 detailed instructions for a 867 but it's the same case so should steer
 you in the right direction:
   http://www.ehow.com/how_7265643_replace-board-powermac-
 g4-867mhz.html

 On Mar 1, 9:42 am, Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com wrote:







  Hi,

  I just got another MDD 1.25 Ghz MDD with a dual processor. Can I put
  the mainboard with the processors installed from the DP machine in my
  single processor MDD 1.25? Should I press the CUDA before I swap the
  boards? Anything else I should know before I do it? Is there a how to
  do with pics

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Re: MDD problem

2011-03-03 Thread Clark Martin


On Mar 3, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Jörg Duurkoop wrote:


Hi Thomas,

Thanks for your input. I tried to remove the board, removed the
heatsink and the one screw that is supposed to hold the mobo down and
tried to slide the board out. It wouldn't budge so I left everything
in place and only replaced the PSU and the fans, the main fan I have
is a very quiet German Papst fan.


I replaced the motherboard on one of my QuickSilvers.  I was using  
the iFixit instructions and when it got to the point of removing the  
motherboard it would budge either.  It turned out that some of the  
standoffs that hold the processor were screwed through the board into  
standoffs mounted to the case.  Those standoffs were NOT in the  
instructions.  Once I removed those the board slid out easily.




All is working again and the Finder and startup seem a little faster
but not much. It looks like the implementation of the second processor
is not very good. I'm running the latest Tiger version mostly - if I
want to use heritage Adobe apps I have to switch back to good ole
Panther.


Why?  I have the set of Adobe apps that are Carbon and they are still  
working under Snow Leopard.




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Re: MDD problem

2011-03-02 Thread theleaddog
The DP board will fit and work. Probably a good idea to push the PMU
button (not called CUDA in the MDD) once you get everything back
together in the event that the former owner had some hardware attached
which you don't. The replacement is fairly straight forward: unplug
all cables/wires from mobo, remove all PCI cards, unscrew the board,
and slide out. IIRC, there are only a few screws but I think you also
have to remove a screw that holds the processor/heat sink assembly to
the board. Take a look at the new board to see if one has been
removed when it was taken out of its case. Here's some further
detailed instructions for a 867 but it's the same case so should steer
you in the right direction:
  http://www.ehow.com/how_7265643_replace-board-powermac-
g4-867mhz.html

On Mar 1, 9:42 am, Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I just got another MDD 1.25 Ghz MDD with a dual processor. Can I put
 the mainboard with the processors installed from the DP machine in my
 single processor MDD 1.25? Should I press the CUDA before I swap the
 boards? Anything else I should know before I do it? Is there a how to
 do with pics

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Re: MDD problem

2011-03-01 Thread Jörg Duurkoop
Hi,

I just got another MDD 1.25 Ghz MDD with a dual processor. Can I put
the mainboard with the processors installed from the DP machine in my
single processor MDD 1.25? Should I press the CUDA before I swap the
boards? Anything else I should know before I do it? Is there a how to
do with pics like this one that shows the swapping procedure for the
PSU?

http://www.info.apple.com/nlnl/cip/pdf/n_g4mirror/fan_power_supply.pdf

I want to keep my old case as it looks like new, the DP Mac is not so
nice cosmetically and makes much more noise. Anything about the
firmware? Thanks for all hints. I want to be sure I won't botch this
job.

Best regards, Jörg.

On 26 feb, 12:24, Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I didn't use the kb but the power button on the monitor which gave the
 same result.

 After resetting the PMU again I'm back at the same situation as before
 the repair. A bong, all fans work, the red LED on the mobo is lit and
 the disks spin up but only chatter for a short time, the monitor stays
 dark. The processor on the graphic card gets warm.

 After resetting the PMU the LED of the power button goes dark again
 after releasing the button although there is the bong etc. The next
 time I try to start after the reset the LED is extinguished for a
 short period and comes back on after the bong.

 I payed 110 euros with new quiet fans and  shipping back to my home.
 The guy apparently also fixes mobos and will help me again. He told me
 that my PSU was indeed defective.

 Best regards, Jörg.

 On 25 feb, 16:20, diane dianed...@gmail.com wrote:







  Did you try to start it with a keyboard instead of the power button? I've
  heard that those buttons go bad sometimes.

  Where did you send your PSU out to and how much did it cost? I had mine done
  for $89 but it's a 12 month warranty.

  Diane

  2011/2/24 Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com

   Hi,

   I had my PSU repaired (and upgraded as the guy that does it claims
   that he replaces all the failure-prone parts too and gives a 3-year
   warranty). Today I put it in my MDD, connected the big black connector
   to the mainboard, connected two of my startup-disks, monitor, kb and
   mouse. When I press the power switch on the front, only the LED of the
   switch is alight and only as long as I press the switch.

   Before I removed the PSU and sent it in for repair I still got a bong,
   the red LED on the mainboard was lit and the disks at least tried to
   start ...

   So now either my mobo, CPU or both are bad? I'm very sad  :-(

   Anybody has one last suggestion? I have very little money and know
   nobody with a second MDD that I could abuse ...

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-26 Thread Jörg Duurkoop
Hi,

I didn't use the kb but the power button on the monitor which gave the
same result.

After resetting the PMU again I'm back at the same situation as before
the repair. A bong, all fans work, the red LED on the mobo is lit and
the disks spin up but only chatter for a short time, the monitor stays
dark. The processor on the graphic card gets warm.

After resetting the PMU the LED of the power button goes dark again
after releasing the button although there is the bong etc. The next
time I try to start after the reset the LED is extinguished for a
short period and comes back on after the bong.

I payed 110 euros with new quiet fans and  shipping back to my home.
The guy apparently also fixes mobos and will help me again. He told me
that my PSU was indeed defective.

Best regards, Jörg.


On 25 feb, 16:20, diane dianed...@gmail.com wrote:
 Did you try to start it with a keyboard instead of the power button? I've
 heard that those buttons go bad sometimes.

 Where did you send your PSU out to and how much did it cost? I had mine done
 for $89 but it's a 12 month warranty.

 Diane

 2011/2/24 Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com







  Hi,

  I had my PSU repaired (and upgraded as the guy that does it claims
  that he replaces all the failure-prone parts too and gives a 3-year
  warranty). Today I put it in my MDD, connected the big black connector
  to the mainboard, connected two of my startup-disks, monitor, kb and
  mouse. When I press the power switch on the front, only the LED of the
  switch is alight and only as long as I press the switch.

  Before I removed the PSU and sent it in for repair I still got a bong,
  the red LED on the mainboard was lit and the disks at least tried to
  start ...

  So now either my mobo, CPU or both are bad? I'm very sad  :-(

  Anybody has one last suggestion? I have very little money and know
  nobody with a second MDD that I could abuse ...

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-25 Thread diane
Did you try to start it with a keyboard instead of the power button? I've
heard that those buttons go bad sometimes.

Where did you send your PSU out to and how much did it cost? I had mine done
for $89 but it's a 12 month warranty.

Diane

2011/2/24 Jörg Duurkoop yaw...@gmail.com

 Hi,

 I had my PSU repaired (and upgraded as the guy that does it claims
 that he replaces all the failure-prone parts too and gives a 3-year
 warranty). Today I put it in my MDD, connected the big black connector
 to the mainboard, connected two of my startup-disks, monitor, kb and
 mouse. When I press the power switch on the front, only the LED of the
 switch is alight and only as long as I press the switch.

 Before I removed the PSU and sent it in for repair I still got a bong,
 the red LED on the mainboard was lit and the disks at least tried to
 start ...

 So now either my mobo, CPU or both are bad? I'm very sad  :-(

 Anybody has one last suggestion? I have very little money and know
 nobody with a second MDD that I could abuse ...



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those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs.
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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-24 Thread Jörg Duurkoop
Hi,

I had my PSU repaired (and upgraded as the guy that does it claims
that he replaces all the failure-prone parts too and gives a 3-year
warranty). Today I put it in my MDD, connected the big black connector
to the mainboard, connected two of my startup-disks, monitor, kb and
mouse. When I press the power switch on the front, only the LED of the
switch is alight and only as long as I press the switch.

Before I removed the PSU and sent it in for repair I still got a bong,
the red LED on the mainboard was lit and the disks at least tried to
start ...

So now either my mobo, CPU or both are bad? I'm very sad  :-(

Anybody has one last suggestion? I have very little money and know
nobody with a second MDD that I could abuse ...

Best regards, Jórg.

On 14 feb, 09:49, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com wrote:
  [Presses start button which then glows.
  Bong (Power On Self-Test) sounded.
  Message appears on monitor to restart computer.
  On subsequent attempts, start button extinguishes
  when released. POST bong not sounding.
  Red light on motherboard remains lit.]

 Had the same problem. Replaced the Front Panel Board (FPB), aka power
 switch, *and* the Power Supply. Didn't help. Motherboard looked like
 new -- no burn marks, no swollen capacitors, not visible cracked
 traces. The red LED on the motherboard was firing. IIRC the HDs did
 not spin up either. Ended up having to replace both the motherboard
 and the CPU as neither tested good. When one went it took the other
 along with it, I guess.

 I don't know how far POST goes before it gives up but the power light
 going out on release is serious. Perhaps bad RAM or a bad RAM socket
 could hang the POST. You might try starting with just one stick of RAM
 and try that individual stick in each socket. Check each stick this
 way. Doubt that's it though. :-(

 Unless you have a source for very inexpensive replacements, your money
 might be better spent on an Intel Mac inasmuch as Apple and third
 parties will soon drop all support on PPCs. If you go the repair route
 be sure you get the right mobo. Check for exact Apple part numbers
 here:http://tinyurl.com/2luemx. It might be wise to push the PMU
 (power management unit) button when you mate a PCU to an unacquainted
 mobo before startup.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-14 Thread theleaddog


 [Presses start button which then glows.
 Bong (Power On Self-Test) sounded.
 Message appears on monitor to restart computer.
 On subsequent attempts, start button extinguishes
 when released. POST bong not sounding.
 Red light on motherboard remains lit.]

Had the same problem. Replaced the Front Panel Board (FPB), aka power
switch, *and* the Power Supply. Didn't help. Motherboard looked like
new -- no burn marks, no swollen capacitors, not visible cracked
traces. The red LED on the motherboard was firing. IIRC the HDs did
not spin up either. Ended up having to replace both the motherboard
and the CPU as neither tested good. When one went it took the other
along with it, I guess.

I don't know how far POST goes before it gives up but the power light
going out on release is serious. Perhaps bad RAM or a bad RAM socket
could hang the POST. You might try starting with just one stick of RAM
and try that individual stick in each socket. Check each stick this
way. Doubt that's it though. :-(

Unless you have a source for very inexpensive replacements, your money
might be better spent on an Intel Mac inasmuch as Apple and third
parties will soon drop all support on PPCs. If you go the repair route
be sure you get the right mobo. Check for exact Apple part numbers
here: http://tinyurl.com/2luemx. It might be wise to push the PMU
(power management unit) button when you mate a PCU to an unacquainted
mobo before startup.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-13 Thread gifutiger
Greetings

I know that a lot has been said about your problem, and the CUDA,
however may I suggest that you take a look at this WEB page:
http://resale.headgap.com/g4powersupply/

Cheers

Harry
San Jose, Ca
(`-''-/).___ ..- -''`.. _
( 6_ 6 )`-.( ``-._.-`)
(_Y_.)'._   )  `._ `.'``-..-'
 ` `_..`--'_..-_/  /--'_.' ,'
   ,-''  ,'  (((.-' fl

On Feb 3, 1:40 pm, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Yesterday I came back home after 3 months abroad and started up my
 MDD, it booted fine and I did some work and then played music from the
 harddisk. Suddenly the music playback got stuck and the Mac froze. I
 switched it off holding down the power button. When I started it again
 I got the screen that tells you to restart in many languages (a stupid
 thing - when you restart after seeing this screen the mac never
 restarts, all you get is that same sceen again over and over).

 But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
 bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark. I couldn't even
 reset the PRAM, no second bong. Starting with the Alt button didn't
 work either. After reading some old posts about the PRAM-battery
 issues I bought a new battery today but still the same. I tried
 reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no go.

 What more can I try to get my Mac to work again? I am running mostly
 Tiger and sometimes Panther if I want to use older Adobe apps. Would
 this be a bad power supply?

 I live in a relatively cool climate, the Netherlands, the fan of my
 MDD 1.25 GHz (last model with FW 400) only speeds up sometimes when
 it's very hot in the summer.

 Thanks for your comments. Best regards, Jörg.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-13 Thread Baha Ata
i said it might be CPU too. or only CPU...

On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 4:23 PM, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello,

 I just tried to start my MDD another time, this time I held down the
 start button for a longer time and lo and behold, at least I got the
 same situation as before. The red LED on the mobo is lit.

 The last thing I did was replace the single DIMM I left in and connect
 another disk. Nothing looks burnt as far as I can see. Are there more
 options before I send my PSU in for an overhaul?

 Thanks again, Jörg.

 On 12 feb, 13:28, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
  no... i dont think you burned out motherboard... CUDA is not burned out
  motherboard. It is long story for my English.
 
  Yes please test if you can your PSU before you got another one...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 2:17 PM, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:
   Hi,
 
   Thanks for your comments and help.
 
   When I pressed the CUDA for a couple of times, about 10 to 20 seconds,
   there was no battery installed.
 
   I did this only after the normal CUDA procedure (5 sec. with battery)
   didn't work.
 
   How can I damage the motherboard without the battery? So it might be
   wasted money if I send my PSU in for repair? I have to get another
   MDD??
 
   Best regards, Jörg.
 
   On 12 feb, 05:23, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
it is... sometimes... you may look 3 yellow capacitors on the
 board... i
wish to have pictures... those are rectangle plactic cover yellow
collored... not big, nor small... on the mainboard... look them. any
   burned
out... generally first they burned out. on mainboard... look red
 light..
generally if red light turns and those 3 of yellow covered mainboard
 is
   ok.
 
On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 11:45 PM, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 On Feb 11, 3:54 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
 wrote:
  On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:
   I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all
 RAM,
   put
   one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my
 startup
   disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times
 for 20
   seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing
 sit
   for
   half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no
 more
   bong,
   the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push
 it,
   doesn't matter how long I push it ...
   So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?
 
  Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going
 though that hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and
 got the identical results. Replacing the PS fixed all the
 problems.
 
 Interesting. I had the same experience with a MDD DP 1.25 pre-2003
 ($1000 at the time). Replacing the PS didn't fix it. Took it to
 Apple
 store. Genius said the processor was shot. Replaced the processor
 with
 a good used one...no go. Figured when it went, it took out the mobo
 or
 vice versa so I put in another used mobo with my old processor.
 Nada.
 Replace processor with the good used one. Ta-da! I guess both items
 were toasted. :-(
 
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[Manager Comment About Excessive Quoting] Re: MDD Problem

2011-02-13 Thread Fabian Fang

On Feb 13, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Baha Ata wrote:


i said it might be CPU too. or only CPU...



To all members of the LEM G-Group:

At your leisure, please take another look at the almost one hundred  
lines of quoting that followed the above one-line message, including  
several levels of the G-Group trailer, which automatically appears  
after every Group message.  This is only one bad example of numerous  
recent G-Group messages that grossly violate our rules with respect to  
reasonable quoting.


Several years ago, the owner of all LEM Google Groups expressed his  
wish that repeated offenders with excessive quoting be subject to  
moderation or banning.  This message will serve as a general reminder/ 
warning.  We reserve our prerogative for taking such actions without  
further individual warnings.


Fabian Fang
A LEM G-Group Manager

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-12 Thread Baha Ata
no... i dont think you burned out motherboard... CUDA is not burned out
motherboard. It is long story for my English.

Yes please test if you can your PSU before you got another one...

On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 2:17 PM, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi,

 Thanks for your comments and help.

 When I pressed the CUDA for a couple of times, about 10 to 20 seconds,
 there was no battery installed.

 I did this only after the normal CUDA procedure (5 sec. with battery)
 didn't work.

 How can I damage the motherboard without the battery? So it might be
 wasted money if I send my PSU in for repair? I have to get another
 MDD??

 Best regards, Jörg.

 On 12 feb, 05:23, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
  it is... sometimes... you may look 3 yellow capacitors on the board... i
  wish to have pictures... those are rectangle plactic cover yellow
  collored... not big, nor small... on the mainboard... look them. any
 burned
  out... generally first they burned out. on mainboard... look red light..
  generally if red light turns and those 3 of yellow covered mainboard is
 ok.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 11:45 PM, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com wrote:
   On Feb 11, 3:54 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
   wrote:
On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:
 I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM,
 put
 one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
 disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
 seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit
 for
 half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more
 bong,
 the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
 doesn't matter how long I push it ...
 So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?
 
Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going
   though that hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and
   got the identical results. Replacing the PS fixed all the problems.
 
   Interesting. I had the same experience with a MDD DP 1.25 pre-2003
   ($1000 at the time). Replacing the PS didn't fix it. Took it to Apple
   store. Genius said the processor was shot. Replaced the processor with
   a good used one...no go. Figured when it went, it took out the mobo or
   vice versa so I put in another used mobo with my old processor. Nada.
   Replace processor with the good used one. Ta-da! I guess both items
   were toasted. :-(
 
   --
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 Power
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  0544 585 9102

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-12 Thread yawg
Hello,

I just tried to start my MDD another time, this time I held down the
start button for a longer time and lo and behold, at least I got the
same situation as before. The red LED on the mobo is lit.

The last thing I did was replace the single DIMM I left in and connect
another disk. Nothing looks burnt as far as I can see. Are there more
options before I send my PSU in for an overhaul?

Thanks again, Jörg.

On 12 feb, 13:28, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
 no... i dont think you burned out motherboard... CUDA is not burned out
 motherboard. It is long story for my English.

 Yes please test if you can your PSU before you got another one...









 On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 2:17 PM, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi,

  Thanks for your comments and help.

  When I pressed the CUDA for a couple of times, about 10 to 20 seconds,
  there was no battery installed.

  I did this only after the normal CUDA procedure (5 sec. with battery)
  didn't work.

  How can I damage the motherboard without the battery? So it might be
  wasted money if I send my PSU in for repair? I have to get another
  MDD??

  Best regards, Jörg.

  On 12 feb, 05:23, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
   it is... sometimes... you may look 3 yellow capacitors on the board... i
   wish to have pictures... those are rectangle plactic cover yellow
   collored... not big, nor small... on the mainboard... look them. any
  burned
   out... generally first they burned out. on mainboard... look red light..
   generally if red light turns and those 3 of yellow covered mainboard is
  ok.

   On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 11:45 PM, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com wrote:
On Feb 11, 3:54 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
wrote:
 On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:
  I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM,
  put
  one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
  disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
  seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit
  for
  half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more
  bong,
  the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
  doesn't matter how long I push it ...
  So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?

 Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going
though that hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and
got the identical results. Replacing the PS fixed all the problems.

Interesting. I had the same experience with a MDD DP 1.25 pre-2003
($1000 at the time). Replacing the PS didn't fix it. Took it to Apple
store. Genius said the processor was shot. Replaced the processor with
a good used one...no go. Figured when it went, it took out the mobo or
vice versa so I put in another used mobo with my old processor. Nada.
Replace processor with the good used one. Ta-da! I guess both items
were toasted. :-(

--
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  for
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  Power
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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread yawg
Hi,

I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM, put
one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit for
half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more bong,
the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
doesn't matter how long I push it ...

So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?

I'm really sad now, not even a bong left ...

Jörg.

On 3 feb, 23:47, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 On Feb 3, 2011, at 2:06 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:









  On Feb 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, yawg wrote:

  But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
  bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark.

  The fact that you got a bong or chime was good. Did you try Safe boot 
  holding the Shift key?

  I couldn't even reset the PRAM, no second bong.

  Might be a keyboard issue? Something could have happened the the keyboard 
  when you were gone?

  I tried reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no go.

  If you get stuck, remove RAM to only one stick at a time.

  I don't think it's likely this is a power supply problem.

  You might try booting a install CD/DVD and running Disk Utility on the HD. 
  You also might consider reinstalling the latest Combo Update if you have 
  further problems. For certain do a Safe Boot holding the shift key because 
  this will trash problematic cache files and get you a relatively clean 
  start.

 Remove the PRAM battery and HDD's along with all the RAM including all cards. 
 Unplug all cables. Spray clean all connections with a residue free contact 
 cleaner. Wait a couple of hours then depress to CUDA switch for 15 seconds 
 then reassemble with 1 stick of ram and restart.

 John Carmonne
 Yorba Linda CA
 92886 USA
 Sent from my MBP

On 10 feb, 21:00, Matevž Markovič ivwcorporation.mat...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hy!

 I feel sorry for your case. I know how it feels, when your beloved computer
 seems dead. As John pointed out, CUDA is one of your last hopes.

 This guy herehttp://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=135390had a
 problem with his memory - he inserted the memory backwards, thus he fried
 the DIMM, but still they said that there is a hope in CUDA. If there was
 hope in his case, why should be no hope in yours?

 Besides, some 4 years ago, my Powerbook G3 went silent - the card holding
 the power connector and rerouting power to the logic board was damaged. I
 can still remember the scene - we, I and my friend, were trying to wake my
 PB G3 from the dead by soldering the power card. As you know, when an old
 powerbook boots, there is a long pause between the power-up and the chime,
 and one of the few ways of knowing whether your computer actually started
 was the presence of light on the keyboard or by measuring the electrical
 parameters from the power card itself, by hand.
 When we were about to give up, it finally booted. I cannot express my
 feelings, that I felt at that time, after hours of hard work and trying.

 Today, after 3 years, this Powerbook still runs. Therefore, there is some
 hope for your powermac G4, so do not feel sad and do not give up to early!

 With best wishes,
                                         Matevž

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread Richard Smallwood

Jörg,

You didn't kill anything, you isolated the problem so that it  
strongly indicates that you have a bad Power Supply.


On 11 Feb 2011, at 11:55 AM, yawg wrote:


I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM, put
one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit for
half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more bong,
the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
doesn't matter how long I push it ...

So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?


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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread Bruce Johnson

On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:

 Hi,
 
 I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM, put
 one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
 disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
 seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit for
 half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more bong,
 the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
 doesn't matter how long I push it ...
 
 So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?
 
 I'm really sad now, not even a bong left ...

Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going though that 
hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and got the identical results. 
Replacing the PS fixed all the problems.

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread J.M.P.Hissel
On 11-02-2011 18:55, yawg, yaw...@gmail.com, wrote:

 , pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20 seconds,

NEVER push the CUDA more than ONE time for a few (± 6) seconds before a
restart!! Simply seen all the manuals and/or doc.'s I know. Pushing more
than once can destroy the whole CUDA-system!
Besides that: In your case I strongly believe your PS is dead.

Jo Hissel



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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread theleaddog
On Feb 11, 3:54 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
wrote:
 On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:
  I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM, put
  one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
  disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
  seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit for
  half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more bong,
  the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
  doesn't matter how long I push it ...
  So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?

 Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going
though that hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and
got the identical results. Replacing the PS fixed all the problems.

Interesting. I had the same experience with a MDD DP 1.25 pre-2003
($1000 at the time). Replacing the PS didn't fix it. Took it to Apple
store. Genius said the processor was shot. Replaced the processor with
a good used one...no go. Figured when it went, it took out the mobo or
vice versa so I put in another used mobo with my old processor. Nada.
Replace processor with the good used one. Ta-da! I guess both items
were toasted. :-(

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those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs.
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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread Dan

At 12:41 AM +0100 2/12/2011, J.M.P.Hissel wrote:

On 11-02-2011 18:55, yawg, yaw...@gmail.com, wrote:
  , pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20 seconds,

NEVER push the CUDA more than ONE time for a few (± 6) seconds before a
restart!! Simply seen all the manuals and/or doc.'s I know. Pushing more
than once can destroy the whole CUDA-system!


To clarify...

Pressing the CUDA button reboots the Power 
Manager.  The PMU is the subprocessor that runs 
the whole motherboard.


There is no need to hold it down for ANY length of time.

Pressing it more than once, or even holding it 
down well, that means you're interrupting the 
boot cycle with yet-another boot cycle.  This can 
result in a screwed up PMU that will quickly 
drain the battery.


Press it ONCE and ONLY once.

- Dan.
--
- Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread Baha Ata
infact you may finish battery but i did not get any bad things other than it
by pressing twice times to CUDA. Relax. It is not CUDA.

It might be CPU or PSU for my 2 cents..

I got same situation once i changed PSU and it not fixed... It was cpu...

Once i changed CPU but it was PSU.

I was lucky in second time because i had 2 MDD in my desk.

If you got a friend that have MDD.. You may test your CPU and PSU...

Sometimes it works... a little time... until CPU get too much hottet.. OR
PSU sometimes get work if some capaccitors halfly working... And it goes
away some times after...

My English is bad... or not enough to tell what i know.. but belive me i got
4 G4 and 2 of them MDD... and i know what i am saying.

On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 4:35 AM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:

 At 12:41 AM +0100 2/12/2011, J.M.P.Hissel wrote:

 On 11-02-2011 18:55, yawg, yaw...@gmail.com, wrote:
   , pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20 seconds,

 NEVER push the CUDA more than ONE time for a few (± 6) seconds before a
 restart!! Simply seen all the manuals and/or doc.'s I know. Pushing more
 than once can destroy the whole CUDA-system!


 To clarify...

 Pressing the CUDA button reboots the Power Manager.  The PMU is the
 subprocessor that runs the whole motherboard.

 There is no need to hold it down for ANY length of time.

 Pressing it more than once, or even holding it down well, that means
 you're interrupting the boot cycle with yet-another boot cycle.  This can
 result in a screwed up PMU that will quickly drain the battery.

 Press it ONCE and ONLY once.

 - Dan.
 --
 - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth.


 --
 You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for
 those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power
 Macs.
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 netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
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-- 
Baha Ata

baha...@gmail.com
0544 585 9102

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-11 Thread Baha Ata
it is... sometimes... you may look 3 yellow capacitors on the board... i
wish to have pictures... those are rectangle plactic cover yellow
collored... not big, nor small... on the mainboard... look them. any burned
out... generally first they burned out. on mainboard... look red light..
generally if red light turns and those 3 of yellow covered mainboard is ok.

On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 11:45 PM, theleaddog tr...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On Feb 11, 3:54 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
 wrote:
  On Feb 11, 2011, at 10:55 AM, yawg wrote:
   I removed all cards, put the video card back in, removed all RAM, put
   one RAM stick back in, removed all ATA cables exept for my startup
   disk, removed the battery, pushed the CUDA a couple of times for 20
   seconds, pushed the power button for 20 seconds, let the thing sit for
   half an hour or more, put the battery back in and voilá: no more bong,
   the light on the power button only stays lit as long as I push it,
   doesn't matter how long I push it ...
   So I managed to kill my MDD by following your suggestions?
 
  Nope, now you know it's a bad power supply. I now remember going
 though that hassle with a professors MDD about 6 months ago and
 got the identical results. Replacing the PS fixed all the problems.

 Interesting. I had the same experience with a MDD DP 1.25 pre-2003
 ($1000 at the time). Replacing the PS didn't fix it. Took it to Apple
 store. Genius said the processor was shot. Replaced the processor with
 a good used one...no go. Figured when it went, it took out the mobo or
 vice versa so I put in another used mobo with my old processor. Nada.
 Replace processor with the good used one. Ta-da! I guess both items
 were toasted. :-(

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-10 Thread yawg
Hi,

Today I opened my MDD (1.25 GHz 2003 model) and it uses a Samsung PSU,
those PSUs seem to go at once and when they go the home fuse goes
also ...

All fans are running, the red LED on the mainboard is lit, I get a
bong, then the disks try to initialize but stop after a while. When I
put a CD in the DVD-drive that drive also spins up for a while.

But my monitors stay dark and the keyboard is not initialized - the
green LED on the capslock key stays dark. That's why I cannot use any
key-combos at startup, no PRAM reset or Alt to change my startup disk,
no shift to do a clean start. The mouse doesn't work either because
the drive should open when I start with the mouse pressed down. I
tried two keyboards.

One time the fans revved up after the bong for a second then back to
slow. I pulled all flatcables and power supplies to the drives and
reseated them. I have 3 start volumes, two Panther and one Tiger, I
normally run Tiger from a big SATA-drive that I use with a little SATA
to PATA adapter. I already removed the PRAM-battery for quite a while,
tried a new one, pulled all the RAM and cleaned and reseated it.

So I guess it's not the PSU's fault but what do I know? This is the
first Mac I cannot get to run again after a crash, it's very
frustrating.

Regards, Jörg.


On 3 feb, 23:47, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 On Feb 3, 2011, at 2:06 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:









  On Feb 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, yawg wrote:

  But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
  bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark.

  The fact that you got a bong or chime was good. Did you try Safe boot 
  holding the Shift key?

  I couldn't even reset the PRAM, no second bong.

  Might be a keyboard issue? Something could have happened the the keyboard 
  when you were gone?

  I tried reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no go.

  If you get stuck, remove RAM to only one stick at a time.

  I don't think it's likely this is a power supply problem.

  You might try booting a install CD/DVD and running Disk Utility on the HD. 
  You also might consider reinstalling the latest Combo Update if you have 
  further problems. For certain do a Safe Boot holding the shift key because 
  this will trash problematic cache files and get you a relatively clean 
  start.

 Remove the PRAM battery and HDD's along with all the RAM including all cards. 
 Unplug all cables. Spray clean all connections with a residue free contact 
 cleaner. Wait a couple of hours then depress to CUDA switch for 15 seconds 
 then reassemble with 1 stick of ram and restart.

 John Carmonne
 Yorba Linda CA
 92886 USA
 Sent from my MBP

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-10 Thread Clark Martin

On Feb 10, 2011, at 10:37 AM, yawg wrote:

 Hi,
 
 Today I opened my MDD (1.25 GHz 2003 model) and it uses a Samsung PSU,
 those PSUs seem to go at once and when they go the home fuse goes
 also ...
 
 All fans are running, the red LED on the mainboard is lit, I get a
 bong, then the disks try to initialize but stop after a while. When I
 put a CD in the DVD-drive that drive also spins up for a while.
 
 But my monitors stay dark and the keyboard is not initialized - the
 green LED on the capslock key stays dark. That's why I cannot use any
 key-combos at startup, no PRAM reset or Alt to change my startup disk,
 no shift to do a clean start. The mouse doesn't work either because
 the drive should open when I start with the mouse pressed down. I
 tried two keyboards.
 
 One time the fans revved up after the bong for a second then back to
 slow. I pulled all flatcables and power supplies to the drives and
 reseated them. I have 3 start volumes, two Panther and one Tiger, I
 normally run Tiger from a big SATA-drive that I use with a little SATA
 to PATA adapter. I already removed the PRAM-battery for quite a while,
 tried a new one, pulled all the RAM and cleaned and reseated it.
 
 So I guess it's not the PSU's fault but what do I know? This is the
 first Mac I cannot get to run again after a crash, it's very
 frustrating.

Strip it down to basics.  One RAM DIMM, one hard drive, only the video card and 
monitor, no PCI cards, disconnect the optical drive cable, no Ethernet, FW or 
USB and see what it does.  If it still doesn't boot then try changing the RAM 
and HD.

Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-10 Thread Matevž Markovič
Hy!

I feel sorry for your case. I know how it feels, when your beloved computer
seems dead. As John pointed out, CUDA is one of your last hopes.

This guy here http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=135390 had a
problem with his memory - he inserted the memory backwards, thus he fried
the DIMM, but still they said that there is a hope in CUDA. If there was
hope in his case, why should be no hope in yours?

Besides, some 4 years ago, my Powerbook G3 went silent - the card holding
the power connector and rerouting power to the logic board was damaged. I
can still remember the scene - we, I and my friend, were trying to wake my
PB G3 from the dead by soldering the power card. As you know, when an old
powerbook boots, there is a long pause between the power-up and the chime,
and one of the few ways of knowing whether your computer actually started
was the presence of light on the keyboard or by measuring the electrical
parameters from the power card itself, by hand.
When we were about to give up, it finally booted. I cannot express my
feelings, that I felt at that time, after hours of hard work and trying.

Today, after 3 years, this Powerbook still runs. Therefore, there is some
hope for your powermac G4, so do not feel sad and do not give up to early!

With best wishes,
Matevž

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MDD problem

2011-02-03 Thread yawg
Hi,

Yesterday I came back home after 3 months abroad and started up my
MDD, it booted fine and I did some work and then played music from the
harddisk. Suddenly the music playback got stuck and the Mac froze. I
switched it off holding down the power button. When I started it again
I got the screen that tells you to restart in many languages (a stupid
thing - when you restart after seeing this screen the mac never
restarts, all you get is that same sceen again over and over).

But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark. I couldn't even
reset the PRAM, no second bong. Starting with the Alt button didn't
work either. After reading some old posts about the PRAM-battery
issues I bought a new battery today but still the same. I tried
reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no go.

What more can I try to get my Mac to work again? I am running mostly
Tiger and sometimes Panther if I want to use older Adobe apps. Would
this be a bad power supply?

I live in a relatively cool climate, the Netherlands, the fan of my
MDD 1.25 GHz (last model with FW 400) only speeds up sometimes when
it's very hot in the summer.

Thanks for your comments. Best regards, Jörg.

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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-03 Thread Kris Tilford

On Feb 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, yawg wrote:


But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark.


The fact that you got a bong or chime was good. Did you try Safe  
boot holding the Shift key?



I couldn't even reset the PRAM, no second bong.


Might be a keyboard issue? Something could have happened the the  
keyboard when you were gone?


I tried reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no  
go.


If you get stuck, remove RAM to only one stick at a time.

I don't think it's likely this is a power supply problem.

You might try booting a install CD/DVD and running Disk Utility on the  
HD. You also might consider reinstalling the latest Combo Update if  
you have further problems. For certain do a Safe Boot holding the  
shift key because this will trash problematic cache files and get you  
a relatively clean start.


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those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs.
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Re: MDD problem

2011-02-03 Thread Baha Ata
The red line on the board is on, after you start?

Do not stay open too much machine as cover open you may burned out CPU (i
had once).

If you need open cover workout you need put a 12 inch fan above cooler that
emits air and put out (while only cover is open it works out when close you
need fan opposite)

if you look all things and found no error... check the cpu...

i just got the same... cooling paste became aged and or other stuff.

screw out cooler... and look white stribes arround cores. if any brownish or
dark means burned out cpu...

Other thing you may look...

cables...

and battery...

you must look out cables... take off battery and wait 10 min and put back
and PRAM reset... one stick ram... one hd. and no cd/dvd cabled.

if those not work... look brownish white stribe arround core...

if all things are good. it is nearly certain POWER.





On Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 11:40 PM, yawg yaw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi,

 Yesterday I came back home after 3 months abroad and started up my
 MDD, it booted fine and I did some work and then played music from the
 harddisk. Suddenly the music playback got stuck and the Mac froze. I
 switched it off holding down the power button. When I started it again
 I got the screen that tells you to restart in many languages (a stupid
 thing - when you restart after seeing this screen the mac never
 restarts, all you get is that same sceen again over and over).

 But this time I didn't even get the restart screen again but only a
 bong and then nothing, both my monitors stayed dark. I couldn't even
 reset the PRAM, no second bong. Starting with the Alt button didn't
 work either. After reading some old posts about the PRAM-battery
 issues I bought a new battery today but still the same. I tried
 reseating the 3 RAM-sticks, 2 512 and one 1024 MB, still no go.

 What more can I try to get my Mac to work again? I am running mostly
 Tiger and sometimes Panther if I want to use older Adobe apps. Would
 this be a bad power supply?

 I live in a relatively cool climate, the Netherlands, the fan of my
 MDD 1.25 GHz (last model with FW 400) only speeds up sometimes when
 it's very hot in the summer.

 Thanks for your comments. Best regards, Jörg.

 --
 You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for
 those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power
 Macs.
 The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our
 netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
 To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
 For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list




-- 
Baha Ata

baha...@gmail.com
0544 585 9102

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