Re: [Gimp-user] how does one recover original photo?
Grant B. wrote: Another possibility would be to duplicate the original image into a new layer, and then save the working image as a .xcf, so that your layers will be preserved. Do all your work on the duplicate, and if you don't like it, the original will be there to begin again later. I have just started using gimp and last night saved my work and quit, but this morning i loaded the image and could not undo the work i did not like. Is there some way to recover the original. Trent IF you kept things on different layers AND IF you saved the file as a .xcf MAYBE you can remove (or over write) one or more layers and try again OTHERWISE - no, not in a direct (undo) way. Paint over, erase portion and paint over, select (by various methods - see your version's help) and correct by using a change method (also see help). Most likely you will wind up using a combination of techniques. Something to keep in mind as you work with any raster program is that you are painting (with all that implies) rather than drafting. The undo stack disappears when the program is exited in virtually all drawing, graphic, drafting, etc... programs on the market today. The above advice of saving the original file (particularly at points you feel are complete to here) and working with a copy is the ONLY way to work. At least if you don't like spending lots of time being frustrated and re-doing things you just re-did. The process also allows one to branch off on other ideas along the way. (By having multiple but but slightly different 'originals' from which to work out different ideas.) Believe me - I think if a vote was taken and people answered truthfully, it would be unanimous: We all learned that lesson the hard way. Steve ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Find and Replace Line
Neale I. wrote: The usual solution has long been to zoom way in and change the desired pixels, one at a time. Just what you didn't want to hear. :( Steve How about a select by shape and colour and replace black with red? = by shape - seems to not be a part of Gimp 2.2 Using the magic wand can (with conditions) be useful, replacing selected area's color via bucket works but creating dash pattern takes more effort than just zooming in and coloring the breaks by hand. Agreed - I'm not up to date on Gimp versions but loading a ton of programs I don't use just to compile and use Gimp is not in line with my mentality. Portions of this program are taken from the following ... constitutes valid copyright notice, at least last time I asked. Putting them with the GIMP branch makes updates much easier too. Each becomes a whole unto itself, rather than causing conflicts. That thing about write it once and use it often works for cut and paste too. Usually takes less space to boot. Back on corrections - any way that works for the user is valid. And Yes - it is nice to have the needed tools 'pre-built' and available. But - when all else fails :) Steve ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Credit Card Hologram Effect
Grant B. wrote: Hey all, I'm working on a project and would like to be able to produce an effect similar to one of those holograms on a credit card. Specifically, I'd like to replicate the metallic shine of the background, and if possible, the picture to some extent. Anyone know how/know where a good guide to doing so is? I looked around google for a while and didn't see anything. Ouch! Did Homeland Security get a copy of this? :) Yeah, I would be anonymous too. :) I'm laughing - but on a serious note, most any better tutorial for drawing machine parts for display (as opposed to shop needs) should have something on the subject. So should any book on drawing anything that displays chrome parts. Holographic look and feel will need something better than a regular printer. If you can get by with just a visual, look up Eric Christensen's watercolors which have both glass and (sometimes) metal. In general I find most art to be very overly priced. I recently saw one of Eric's originals (as opposed to a lithograph). Priced at tens of thousands of US$ it was still not pricey. If you can duplicate what you see - these might be helpful. Steve ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp crashes
Paul W. wrote: I'm running GIMP 2.6.6 on Vista Home Premium SP1. If I use GIMP normally and try to use Colour Tools-Contrast-Brightness GIMP just stops working and crashes. If I run GIMP as administrator then I can use Colour Tools ok. So I guess it is workround. Paul Or re-install it for a user (you) Or set it for general use. (I know it can be done, but I don't remember how.) Check Microsoft's Help and probably any one who supports a Microsoft office group. HTH Steve ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Convert gradients to smooth shades.
John Culleton wrote:
My favorite printer specifies the above. I am not sure exactly what
is meant. In any case how do I assure this in Gimp?
I have preserved gradients in a PDF 1.3 file through the workflow
of: export to PDF 1.4, view in Acrobat Reader, print to a PS file,
and then run ps2pdf13 (part of the Ghostview suite) but I am hoping
that Gimp has a more straightforward approach.
Which OS are you using?
If Window$ - load a PostScript printer and set it print to file and
set it to be the default printer. Use Gimp and print.
Give name of file for disk when asked and make last name
a .ps... (filename.ps) Then run your bat file.
OR
Load a color printer, set it as default and print to it. :)
If Linux - set Gimp to print to file. (Postscript is the output)
In Gimp, files-print Give it a name when it asks. Follow with your
trusted converter ps2pdf13.
Try to NOT use Window$ PDF printer.
In Linux, using a script like you do is actually best if you use
multiple printers. CUPS and lpr are a pain to setup and maintain.
If your printer of choice is a network one, find, download, compile,
install and use rlpr. You can put in a call to it at the end of your
current script or replace the current printer call with it if you want
to convert to pdf (perhaps convert to printer's language) and then print
all in one motion.
Sample Attached: It is wordy!! This file has the comments so I can
remember what to do if changes are needed. I use it or more often the
copy minus the comments, at home.
Steve
#!/bin/bash
# prt2-240.scr
# Nov.2006
# SLT
# syntax : prt2-240.scr filename.ps or eps or pdf
# or any gs convertable file type.
# Required : Lnix operating system
# Purpose : I hate printing, re-printing and re-pri... same thing.
#Especially when the setup can be time consuming.
#I like to get it right and print. And when the paper
#jams or the ink runs out I just reload and re-cat that
#file that took me forever to compose.
#(I know, if 5 copies are wanted print 5 the first time.
# But then Jane wants one too. And it's out of ink and
# the courier is waiting and
# If this hasn't happened to you, or something like it,
# then you live in a dream world. Can we all join you?)
#
# Note : In my experience the Unix world goes to great efforts
# to avoid having the human do all the repetitious work.
# Point-Click, Point-Click, Point-Click-Click, or was the
# other one supposed to be two clicksIn Unix, there
# are few actual programs. There is an abundance of what
# might best be called stand-alone subroutines. One can
# chain few or many of them together to get a desired
# result.
#Consider this: Print each page or group to a postscript
# format on disk. Use gv (GhostView) to review. Use this
# script to create the printer ready files of all that
# have passed inspection. When all are present, you get
# to stand at the printer and feed it whatever it takes.
# Paper jam, out of ink, whatever? Then, drop back to last
# done and cat next-page again. Both sides if necessary.
# And you get to save all that money you would have spent
# on paper and ink that would have been overflowing the
# extra-large trash can you bought just for the project :)
# Now that's My idea of Doing It Right The First Time.
model=mfc240c
#
# Requireds: The following files are required for this to work:
# 1) /usr/local/Brother/Printer/${model}/lpd/br${model}filter
# 2) /usr/local/Brother/Printer/${model}/inf/paperinfij
#copy paperinfij.600 to paperinfij
# 3) /usr/local/Brother/Printer/${model}/inf/br${model}rc
#copy br${model}rc.600 to br${model}rc
# 4) /etc/printcap (must have Brother setup)
# AND they must each be in the above stated location.
# otherwise it doesn't want to work. ie.. non-relocatable
# As long as the binary ppm is 4720x6220 pixels it really does
# not matter how the ppm is made. But Brother will not handle
# 'fit to page' requirements. Make sure the print area does not
# exceed 7.8667x10.3667 inches. Excess is simply lost. In terms of
# Postscript points (72/inch) I suggest a bbox of 0 0 566 745.
# (convert source -geometry 566x745! PS:newsource.ps can help.
# in that case just prt-240.scr newsource.ps you just made.)
# A separate script can handle the printing without the need of a
# postscript starter.
# (Change -c -quit | /usrto cat $1 | keep-the-rest and go
# back and make sure that all
[Gimp-user] Color change a whole range based on a break point
Hello; I'm new to the Gimp forum. I took a quick look at the archives and decided to try a more direct approach. This forum. Wanted: In Gimp, to add (SUM) the RGB values for a pixel and then change all pixels who's RGB SUM is greater than a user stated value to WHITE. Second side of that is to change all RGB SUMs less than value given to Black. BUT not doing both at same time, thus allowing user to step in and see what got lost. Anyone who has scanned old CAD/Architectural files and prepped them for Raster to Vector conversion will know intuitively my intent and reason for wanting this ability. Yes - I can do this with another program but it means sending the file back and forth and working blind. It would be nice to have it in GIMP. While I can program, I have never tried using Gimp's language. The docs I have seen on the subject are not very clear to someone new to the language. Nor did I find any clearly the Gimp's verbs (functions) and their syntax anywhere. Again, I scanned the 'HELP' and Gimp.org site and then came here. At the very least someone should be able to point me to the real stuff much faster than me trying to wade through HTMLs. (Grep doesn't like them :) Steve norse...@hughes.net ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
Re: [Gimp-user] Color change a whole range based on a break point
Sven Neumann wrote: Hi, On Tue, 2009-06-23 at 14:51 -0700, norseman wrote: In Gimp, to add (SUM) the RGB values for a pixel and then change all pixels who's RGB SUM is greater than a user stated value to WHITE. Second side of that is to change all RGB SUMs less than value given to Black. BUT not doing both at same time, thus allowing user to step in and see what got lost. Use the Levels tool. That is pretty much exactly what you achieve by moving the Input levels in the Value channel (except that Value is not defined as the sum but the max of the RGB values). Sven == I have been trying exactly that 'macro'. It does not work as expected. I'm using Gimp 2.6.6 on Windows XP Pro. Using a Twain32, Gimp makes a great scanner input system. Most files DO clean up quite nicely with Levels, but some need more direct control. As it has been programmed, Max is NOT SUM, unfortunately. Question is how to get Gimp to do what is needed? Steve ___ Gimp-user mailing list Gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU https://lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user
