Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?

2006-01-31 Thread Adele de Maisieres

michaela wrote:



It goes like this:
US/UK/NZ
french fries/chips/chips
chips/crisps/chips

I love living in NZ. When you say you are having chips for lunch, it's all
in the context.



Well, sometimes we say hot chips to distinguish the one kind from the 
other.  And some people in the South Island say crisps.


--
Adele de Maisieres

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AW: [h-cost] Boning/reeds yet again

2006-01-31 Thread feudtner
Have used a reed/steel combination for my fully boned 18th century stays. Even 
though I used steel only at strategic places (all channels where pieces were 
joined together, 4 pieces in front to simulate a small busk and of course at 
the back where the lacing is) it is quite heavy.
I bought reed at www.sillysisters.com and I'm very satisfied. Plus points of 
reed are that it is light, fairly cheap and can be shaped easily both in length 
and width. I do not have any problems with the reed breaking while wearing it, 
but this might be different if the stays are not fully boned.
The only problem is that you have to be careful when inserting the reed in the 
channels - don't use too much force!

Have fun with the new stays!
Michaela

I'm bracing myself to do yet another corset with tabs.  This time I would
like to use something besides steel because the steels that go down into the
tabs from the corset itself tend to bend and stay bent.  Besides, they are
expensive.

I happen to have some real whale bone, both as stay size pieces and as an
entire frond.  The young man who gave me the stays told me don't ask, but
I suspect they came from Japan.  The small frond I got on E-Bay and came
with a certificate that it was gotten pre-ban and legally. I got it
mainly so I could have something to show when teaching.

Problem is that once you have handled the real thing you aren't going to
be impressed with cable ties as a substitute.  So reeds/broom straw seems a
better answer.

I know that several people have used reed successfully.  How big?  Where did
you get it?  Either this or maybe a nice broom and lots of quilting thread?

I did check the archives, but didn't see exactly what I was looking for.  Do
I want 1/4 oval, 1.5mm round reed, 1mm round reed?  Broom?

One reason I particularly want a new corset is because I have done something
to my back.  On 12th night I knew I was going to be wearing a 35 pound
houpeland (BIG Sleeves, Velvet lined with light weight wool, full circle)
and was willing to bet my back was not going to be happy.  I put on my Tudor
corset made from the corset generator pattern with added tabs and was
comfortable for 18 hours!  I'm beginning to think this is what I want for
work as well.  I'm pleasingly plump ;-) and a B cup but I have _hips_ (bum
roll?  what bum roll?) so the tiny waist immediately flairs out to quite
substantial hips (weebles wobble, but they don't fall down.)  This means
that the tabs are a point of considerable strain for any stiffening.



Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Becky

I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories




On Mon, 30 Jan 2006, Cin wrote:


The number of extant inventories, etc. out there that have never been
studied is practically criminal. One of the defining moments in my life
was holding Edward II's wardrobe inventory -- the original volume -- and

Cool!  I had no idea one even existed!


...and then I put it back on the shelf between the inventories of Edward I
and Edward III. Each volume was about 3-4 inches thick, IIRC.

Public service reminder: Drool is not good for keyboards. ;-)


Wouldnt it be cool to Wiki a never-before annotated inventory?  Even
tho most of us are just amateurs  fashion fans, I'm sure we'd have
some interesting things to say on so many topics.  While none of us
could complete the task, we'd make a nice start.


Unfortunately we'd have to start with transcription and translation. I can
read 14th c. handwriting, but this was clerical chickenscratch, by
multiple hands, in a mishmash of French, Latin, and English, with arcane
abbreviations thrown in. You can't analyze the words till you know what
they are. And a good lot of the work involves figuring out the dates,
quantities, and monetary amounts, which (if I remember right) were
recorded in roman numerals.

I think part of the reason this has gone undone is that you can't figure
out what the words are if you don't know the costume terminology of the
period (in all three languages). Paleographers tend not to be costume
scholars; they are more likely to work on documents that are deemed less
specialist, or that require specialist knowledge in areas that are
important enough to people to justify developing a specialty. The person
who showed me the inventories -- an independent scholar -- had spent
decades reading wills and inventories and legal documents on behalf of
people who needed research done in genealogy and heraldry. (He developed a
reasonable familiarity with costume terms because of the nature of that
work, but I would guess costume research doesn't pay the bills the way
family history or heraldic research does.)

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 04:44 AM 1/31/2006, you wrote:

I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
[snip]


It just means that the inventory of the wardrobe still exists.  We 
don't have very many extant (i.e., surviving) clothing pieces.


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Kate M Bunting
In costume or any other terms, extant means still in existence.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 31/01/2006 12:44 
I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
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[h-cost] Re: 18c stays

2006-01-31 Thread Mia Dappert

Hi Mia,

The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it. I thought it would
at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.

I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is whether
to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
and how does one get the right sizes? Tin-snips? I've already purchased a
yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and red.

I'm just doing this to do it. I suppose I could use it for halloween next
year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
dress. I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I do
have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask. Hmmm... a
sacque? I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with what's
affordable.

Kristin


  Oh stays..., I've done several, but since I'm an active reenactor, and trying 
to progress to a more authentic reenactor, my solutions, might not be your 
solutions.
  Like I said, the butterick pattern seems to be good, especially for 3rd 
quarter or so 18th c. Making 18c stays is not as hard as one might think.  just 
somewhat time consuming.  And I always have challenges with the fit. For the 
stays I've done I've, 
  1.  used the J.P Ryan patterns (very nice- and gives that good ice cream cone 
shape.)  I used metal and cable ties and that stringy box binding stuff that is 
almost like whale bone...this is not a good description, but I really don't 
know how to do better.  These were really nice.
  2.  used the later 18c pattern from Hunnicut,  and blew it up on a copy 
machine.  these were nice too.  I used basket cane and metal bones at the 
stress points.  These were nice too
  3.  Back to JP Ryan for the pattern, bound in leather, wool covered, fully 
boned, cable ties and metal in stress points, cane everywhere else.  They are 
really beautiful.
  3.  on the table to do now.  the butterick pattern, cut out in linen, will be 
halfboned with ?
   
  All done on the machine
   
  For me basket caning works, but i am frequently out in the heat of a North 
Carolina Summer.  Anything Plastic just doesn't breathe enough for me.  I've 
never had a piece of cane break.  and boy does it support!!
   
  Choice of patterns ...JP Ryan is good, the butterick is good.  I don't have 
the skills to draft one from scratch and have it come out looking like I want 
it to.  
   
  Again all these choices are based on where you are wearing it, and what you 
want it for.  Costume and just for fun has different needs than reenactor and 
museum work.
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC  where there is no sign of winter.  Boy i'm not 
looking forward to another hot summer... gotta get those linen stays done.




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[h-cost] Brit patterns

2006-01-31 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Hope someone can help me with this
I am looking for a British pattern site that has patterns for the first quarter 
of the 19th C.
(Jane Austin and company,) Had it once and have lost it.

Kathleen
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[h-cost] Re: stay boning

2006-01-31 Thread Mia Dappert
I used 1/4 inch half round basket making reed.  To me it came out nice looking. 
 and It looks like the pictures's ive seen.  Sometimes I used two strips in a 
channel, sometimes backed the reed with a piece of steel boning.  The reed is 
really firm, especially the channels with two pieces. 
   
  I've never been fortunate to really examine a pair of 18c stays close up, nor 
handeled any real whale bone. Also I've never seen the german false whalebone.  
I'm afraid it would spoil me
   
  Mia in Charlotte, NC


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[h-cost] Visit to Tuscany

2006-01-31 Thread Catherine Kinsey
A good friend of mine is going to Tuscany in April and the
gift-ideas-for-Brits made me wonder if anyone has suggestions for small
gifts she can take that Italians might appreciate?  

Also, any must-see costume or embroidery resources in this area that
she can checkout for me :)?

Catherine
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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread JAMES OGILVIE
What I want defined is Wiki.

Janet


  In costume or any other terms, extant means still in existence.

  Kate Bunting
  Librarian and 17th century reenactor

   [EMAIL PROTECTED] 31/01/2006 12:44 
  I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
  __


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wiki (was Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


What I want defined is Wiki.



There's even a wiki entry for wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?

2006-01-31 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 1/31/2006 12:48:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

It goes  like this:
US/UK/NZ
french fries/chips/chips



Well, at least we're not calling them freedom fries any more!  Sheesh!
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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


What I want defined is Wiki.


speculation -- Wiki-wiki is (I think) Hawaiian for quickly!)

Wikipedia is an online editable Encyclopedia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

There's also an SCA specific wikipedia out of Lochac (but you don't have
to be from Lochac to post .)

http://cunnan.sca.org.au/wiki/Main_Page

Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Visit to Tuscany

2006-01-31 Thread Rhonda Donaldson
Take me as a gift : )  I'm not small, but it would be great fun lol...
 
Sorry couldn't help myself,
going stir crazy in PA,
Rhonda
 
Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru 
Access Services 
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken.
--Frank Herbert
 
 Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
cross-references.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/31/06 9:53 AM 

A good friend of mine is going to Tuscany in April and the
gift-ideas-for-Brits made me wonder if anyone has suggestions for
small
gifts she can take that Italians might appreciate?  

Also, any must-see costume or embroidery resources in this area that
she can checkout for me :)?

Catherine
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[h-cost] Re: the virgin queen

2006-01-31 Thread Kate M Bunting
Watched Episode 2 last night. The men's anachronistic breeches were more 
obvious this week (though I liked the tennis scenes), and, as someone 
commented, the women's skirts don't look as though they have enough support 
(perhaps the designers thought that farthingales would look as odd  to modern 
eyes as they thought trunk-hose would).

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread Tania Gruning
Hiya all.
   
  I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories that are 
intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could be they were 
stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th century.
   
  Tania



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[h-cost] Re: gifts for brits

2006-01-31 Thread Rhonda Donaldson
We do have flavored crisps, but not the cool flavors from the UK.  So
worth it to get some :)
 
Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru 
Access Services 
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken.
--Frank Herbert
 
 Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
cross-references.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/30/06 5:32 PM 

the best present I ever got from the US was brought back by a friend
who'd 
been back to see her folks- it was a bumper size pot of dried cat nip! 

fantastic as I just couldn't find it over here (short of growing it,
which I now do 
(or try to, but the cats of course keep eating it)),


  IT IS an abomination!! I think white chocolate is pure evil
disguised 
as 
   confectionery!!

white chocolate is fabulous - and a friend gave me a hot chocolate gift
box 
from whittards of chelsea that had white hot chocolate in it - it's
fabulous - 
honestly is like liquid milky bars and I'm addicted already (you can
bet I'll 
be shaving up milky bars when I run out!!)

 I don't think they
 have Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, either.

we do - have had them for years - you get them at woolworths (only
place I've 
ever found them

No brownies, either, although when I have a chance I make them
over
 there to great cheers.  That's fun, shopping for ingredients and
 trying to convert the measurements!

you can get brownies, but they're not 'real' ones, according to an
american 
friend who lives here.  

   I bring; Irn Bru, yummy cheese, chocolates, Scottish
   Blend tea, Jaffa Cakes and different flavored crisps

when I was little, we used to give irn bru to friends in the south,
because 
you couldn't get it down there.
you don't have flavoured crisps??


And full round to being on-topic, Brownies and Girl Scouts wear
 uniforms that have changed through the years with fashion.  :-)

yes, and wouldn't you know it whan I was a brownie the uniform was a
horrible 
brown shirt dress that was about upper thigh length.  and my girl
guides 
uniform still had the horrid granny hat.

debs
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Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Style, Nostalgic Needle, Sharon Cohen

2006-01-31 Thread Chris Laning

At 5:46 PM -0500 1/30/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I agree with Ann. I used Safari on a Mac OS X and it was fine--pages 
loaded very quickly. The colors were quite nice for me, and the 
design of the pages was clear and consistent. I liked the stitch 
listings (is there really a stitch called bukkion, though? I'd 
have thought bullion, but I'm not an advanced student of 
embroidery!
Order and contact information are really needed for this appetizing 
presentation.


Yes, I think a bit of copy-editing is needed in a few places. I think 
I noticed splender (for splendor), acron (for acorn), and The 
inspiration for this sampler are...


I gather that these kits are not available from the website directly? 
If they are, ordering info is definitely needed. If not, a link to 
some retailers who carry them would be much appreciated.

--


OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com

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[h-cost] Dress forms

2006-01-31 Thread Joannah Hansen
To the person who was enquiring about dressforms ( I'm sorry, I don't remember 
who it was and I've deleted the original post )

I can't say that I have any experience with the dressform about which you were 
asking about, but you might find these links interesting/useful, especially if 
you don't fall into 'the norm' in shape or size:  

http://www.mytwindressforms.com/

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t2_p2.asp
 - there are 4 different versions to have a look at.

Joannah.


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?

2006-01-31 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
And what is Irn Bru?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Pierre  Sandy Pettinger
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?


Crisps?

Are these potato chips, crackers, or something else?  English to 
English translation, pleaseg

Sandy

   I bring; Irn Bru, yummy cheese, chocolates, Scottish
Blend tea, Jaffa Cakes and different flavored crisps

when I was little, we used to give irn bru to friends in the south, 
because you couldn't get it down there. you don't have flavoured 
crisps??

Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread WickedFrau

Something which continues to exist, that has escaped the ravages of time.
(I just assumed you had made a little typo there..:)

Sg
Becky wrote:


I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
- Original Message - From: Robin Netherton 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories



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Re: [h-cost] gifts for Brits

2006-01-31 Thread Kate M Bunting
Rhonda mentioned tablet - we don't even have that in England. I discovered it 
when I went to the Orkney Islands in 2003; the hotel gave us a square of it 
with our after-dinner coffee onstead of a mint. (It's a hard fudge made in 
blocks which can be broken into squares like a chocolate bar.)

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30/01/2006 18:29  wrote:
 What they REALLY don't have are Girl Scout cookies.  I brought a
couple boxes of thin mints one time, and the person who enjoyed them
the most was an American who never seemed to visit his parents during
cookie season.

?? You mean Americans have a particular season for eating cookies?

  
__


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[h-cost] boning - reed or cable ties

2006-01-31 Thread katherine sanders
Hi Wanda

I would recommend you track down what I've heard
called 'artificial whalebone' - it comes in several
different widths, from 4mm up to 12mm, has no ridges
(like ridgeline)and when you sit down, it doesn't stay
bent up at the front like ridgeline does.  You have be
able to find it quite cheaply if you are in the US -
the supplier's I've contacted over here vary
considerably. You can get it from either

http://www.geocities.com/staymaker/index.htm
http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/

or from the manufacturer at
http://www.wissner.de/eng/

I just noticed you can get it from Farthingales as
'German boning'.

It's not as cheap as cable ties but it is as close to
real whalebone as you'll get without that rather
brittle tendency that sometimes happens. You can see
how good it looks since it is used in The Staymaker's
gallery of work.

HTH

Katherine (who's saving up for it right now)


A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright



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Re: [h-cost] Boning/reeds yet again

2006-01-31 Thread LuAnn Mason
Wanda, I used 1/4 flat reeds from Weaving Works in Seattle, and have been 
really happy.  They have a great selection of style and sizes of reeds, and are 
very reasonable.  I spent under $10 for enough reed to do an entire corset, and 
I'm a woman of fine substantial size.

HTH--

LuAnn in Vancouver
  - Original Message - 
  From: Wanda Peasemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: H-Costumemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 7:16 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Boning/reeds yet again


  I'm bracing myself to do yet another corset with tabs.  This time I would
  like to use something besides steel because the steels that go down into the
  tabs from the corset itself tend to bend and stay bent.  Besides, they are
  expensive.

  I happen to have some real whale bone, both as stay size pieces and as an
  entire frond.  The young man who gave me the stays told me don't ask, but
  I suspect they came from Japan.  The small frond I got on E-Bay and came
  with a certificate that it was gotten pre-ban and legally. I got it
  mainly so I could have something to show when teaching.

  Problem is that once you have handled the real thing you aren't going to
  be impressed with cable ties as a substitute.  So reeds/broom straw seems a
  better answer.

  I know that several people have used reed successfully.  How big?  Where did
  you get it?  Either this or maybe a nice broom and lots of quilting thread?

  I did check the archives, but didn't see exactly what I was looking for.  Do
  I want 1/4 oval, 1.5mm round reed, 1mm round reed?  Broom?

  One reason I particularly want a new corset is because I have done something
  to my back.  On 12th night I knew I was going to be wearing a 35 pound
  houpeland (BIG Sleeves, Velvet lined with light weight wool, full circle)
  and was willing to bet my back was not going to be happy.  I put on my Tudor
  corset made from the corset generator pattern with added tabs and was
  comfortable for 18 hours!  I'm beginning to think this is what I want for
  work as well.  I'm pleasingly plump ;-) and a B cup but I have _hips_ (bum
  roll?  what bum roll?) so the tiny waist immediately flairs out to quite
  substantial hips (weebles wobble, but they don't fall down.)  This means
  that the tabs are a point of considerable strain for any stiffening.



  Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
  Never attribute to malice what can as easily
  be attributed to simple social ineptness


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[h-cost] Irn Bru

2006-01-31 Thread Rhonda Donaldson
The national drink of Scotland lol.  It is an orange colored soda that
doesn't taste a thing like orange soda.  It is truely different...and
hard to explain. I like it tho.  Tablet is a pure sugar rush - My Mom
used to make it when we were kids and we called it fried fudge.  Had no
idea it was called butter tablet elsewhere.
 
 
 
Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru 
Access Services 
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken.
--Frank Herbert
 
 Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
cross-references.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/31/06 12:57 AM 

And what is Irn Bru?


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[h-cost] OT -- tablet

2006-01-31 Thread Land of Oz



Tablet is a pure sugar rush - My Mom
used to make it when we were kids and we called it fried fudge.  Had no
idea it was called butter tablet elsewhere.



I am very intrigued by this. Google is my friend:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/scruss/tablet.html

clear, step by step directions. Doesn't seem difficult, but it does sound 
tasty.


I've tried, but I can't think if a single way to make this costume related!
Denise 


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?

2006-01-31 Thread Debloughcostumes

And what is Irn Bru?

Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from 
girders'.

http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/

Debs
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