Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier
For the general population, the waistline was at its normal placement in 
1910-1911.  By 1912-1914, the empire waist was fashionable.  From 1910 to 
1914 the waistline gradually moved up.  In 1912, I have Ladies' Home Journal 
with the mid waistline.  Delineator magazine shows the empire waist.


I tell my students that during World War 1 ladies' fashion was kinda like 
the 1980s; a little bit of everything went on. It was fashion design gone 
wild.  I personally like the WW1 fashions...very creative!  I have 1916-1918 
fashion plates of some of the same fashions that were worn in the 1980s.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


- Original Message - 
From: "Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914


I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists 
than the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick 
pattern gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914



MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier

MaggiRos,

I made a dress similar to this pattern in a shimmery dark red.  I was going 
to a Red Cross Ball in August, so I wanted it to look period with a modern 
twist.  In our university's collection we have a black lace dress similar to 
this one.


Pastels were worn in the summer in the early 1920s.

We have some in the collection from the 1910s in nice peach shades.  One has 
green piping and is very lovely.  We have another dress of ecru netting with 
powder blue medallions.  I would love to make a reproduction of that dress 
one day.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
I'll adjust my searches. Thanks Penny!
--- Penny Ladnier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The
> semi low waistline and the 
> handkerchief style overskirt.

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
Oh yes, I was looking at this site this morning.
wonderful stuff. Thanks.

MaggiRos

--- Katy Bishop <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me
> think of 1920s
> styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by
> Carol Burnett
> :~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens
> for that matter
> was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens
> that you get a
> slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt
> is much more
> 1916-17.
> 
> I have several pictures of evening dresses from the
> 'teens on my website:
> 
> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
OK, 20s, I can go with that. Colors? Fabric
suggestions? Websites that don't require a
subscription? I'm not committed to perfect accuracy
but I'd like to be in the ballpark for whatever date
the dress is trying to be, and make a pretty, wearable
dress.

MaggiRos



--- Gilbert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty
> Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
> 1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely
> have higher waists than 
> the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian.
> The Butterick pattern 
> gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.
> 
> Marjorie
> 
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set
> Georgian England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> 
> 
> > MaggiRos,
> > That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
> 1914.  The W should be
> > quite high, right under the bosom & the shape
> generally columnar.
> >
> > As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
> look lovely in
> > something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
> chiffon over charmeuse? An
> > encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
> lace?
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> > To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > ___
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Sylvia Rognstad


On Jul 3, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dawn wrote:




After 04, women's hair got really short, and they started styling it 
so it sticks out in a little flip in the bottom. A year or two ago it 
seemed like every young blonde starlet looked the same. And then we 
started getting glitter and sequins on everything, and a lot more 
silky polyester type fabrics.


That's how I wear my hair now.  That style has been in for a number of 
years.  I think it was popularized by Meg Ryan.  I keep wondering when 
it will go out.  Maybe it already has for you coastal people, but here 
in Colorado it is still in and since it looks really good on me, I 
don't mind.


Sylrog




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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread AlbertCat
Well, doesn't look like anything I've ever seen from 1914.
 
I designed a "Three Penny Opera" that was set in 1914to compliment  the 
fox trots and 2 steps in the music...and so I researched that very  year. 
 
The waist was at a high-natural line..kinda like the late 1820s or where  men 
wore their pants in the 1950s...y'know, high but  at the waist. Bodices  
usually had no darts of any kind. The backs would be narrow...almost fitted,  
even 
on a shirtwaist... and the fronts would be full, but not baggy like the  
pigeon breasted look of just before in the 1900s. Lots of raglan and dolman  
sleeves with narrow cuffsV necks and high collars. Skirts were gored  
usually 
and slightly flaring stopping at the ankle. Sometimes the  front would be a 
single gore that was straight from the hips down and the  back would be 2 goes 
that flared a bit. Evening things had a layering of  shears effect with beading 
and embroidery, and skirts  were sometimes curiously draped. When the war 
starts, military influences  come into play, with things like large pockets 
with 
pleats and flaps, lots of  buttons, and high boots, that lace up the front...a 
great look with a wool  suit.
 
Hats could be wide and flat but not as large as in  the period before. The 
brim would often be oval with the long sides over the  shoulders. And you see 
less stuff on them. Also a whole range of fez-like  and novelty shapes of 
smaller hats appear. Hair is not short yet but often put  up. Crimping is 
popular.
 
It's a transitional period going out of La Belle Epoch into the 20's. You  
see all kinds of half-and-half combinations.



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Katy Bishop

That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me think of 1920s
styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by Carol Burnett
:~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens for that matter
was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens that you get a
slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt is much more
1916-17.

I have several pictures of evening dresses from the 'teens on my website:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html

I just love the 'teens, so many fun styles, and a different look for
each year of the decade.  I need to find the time to make a new dress
for Newport's ragtime ball this year.

Katy

On 7/3/07, Lynn Downward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

MaggiRos,

I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.

>From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
#4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa 1914

Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
construction makes a self trim ribbon.

Carin's was the only review of this pattern.

There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
own dress of the same time.

Hope some of that helps.

See you in a few weeks,
Lynn

On 7/3/07, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> MaggiRos,
> That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
> quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.
>
> As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
> something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
> encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
> isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
> in August,
>
> http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
>
> But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
> what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
> perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
> not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
> of you know. :-)
>
> MaggiRos
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread otsisto
Maggie,
I have this pattern and have material set aside for it.
It is an early 1920s style, evening dress or can be a summer tea dress. The
girdle top is at waist level.
What I have found so far is that it would that you could make it in a darker
color. I am not sure of what you mean by watery but if you mean flowy, then
pretty much yes. There were some evening gown fabric that were a little
stiff but not really that stiff. Velvets, silks, lace, chiffon, crepe
What fabric/design(?) you could use for a tea dress.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_474.htm

dresses of the 1920s
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_591.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_255.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4453.htm
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/192x_1.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1924_2.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1929_8.shtml
http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=35224

I plan on adding long sleeves to the gown. trim will be lace and pearls. I
have Simplicity 4947 that is to go with the Butterick pattern for a full
outfit. I do not plan on making the girdle but may make a purse that will go
under the tunic and have a slit in the tunic for easy access.
You do not have to have a 60" wide fabric for your tunic, you can use 45"
and have a seam down the center or cut the pattern so that you will have
"princess" seams and then cover over the seam with beadwork. Think of the
tunic as your canvas and the gown the frame.

De
-Original Message-
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Gilbert
I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists than 
the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick pattern 
gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914



MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Dawn




http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)



Oooh, that pattern is on my 'must make' list, too.

No, you don't have to use pale watery colors. Take a look at these 
prints from the period. Some are later than the teens, but you get the 
idea. Rich earth tones, black and red, some bold, contrasting prints. 
And this is the period when Rayon was developed as a silk substitute.




Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Dawn

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
 I still have them. What else was popular that is different from 
today?


Beltlines are still below the navel today, but shirts are coming back 
down. I finally got used to the midriff baring style and last month when 
I went shopping I found all the shirts are about hip length, or longer.


I seem to remember those ruffled and/or patchwork velvet skirts from 
several years back. Only they were never very full. Horrible mint green, 
brown and orange striped poly knit shirts. Babydoll lingerie tops. Thee 
was this whole 'back to the 70's' thing going on, but it was even uglier 
than the first time around. Lots of psychedelic colors like pink and 
green and orange, but too bright, a strange mix of drab and tacky. Lots 
of India-made trim on stuff, around the bottom of jeans, and on jackets. 
All the fabric coming into the stores seemed to have lycra in them.


Necklaces made from fishing line with single pearls or jewels clamped 
every few inches. Very pale lipstick colors, and a return to a natural 
looking face. Glitter or reflective powder in a lot of makeup (and 
suddenly I'm allergic to cosmetics). Huge purses with lots of sequins 
and beads dangling all over them. Long, pointy toed shoes. Shoulder 
length hair.


Men's clothing got very casual. My husband can wear jeans to work, and 
sneakers in a corporate environment. Hair is still short.



After 04, women's hair got really short, and they started styling it so 
it sticks out in a little flip in the bottom. A year or two ago it 
seemed like every young blonde starlet looked the same. And then we 
started getting glitter and sequins on everything, and a lot more silky 
polyester type fabrics.




Dawn
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[h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-) 

MaggiRos

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
Lynnie, I don't think you're talking about the same
pattern, although I see the pattern number in the
review is the same.  But it's hardly a bodice and
skirt. There's an underdress (gown) cut on the fold of
45" fabric, and the overdress (tunic) cut on the fold
of 60" fabric. The girdle does look like it rides
below the hips, I'll grant you, but that's what
creates such waist as it has. The trim is beaded
ribbon, not self trim, although there is some
self-facing at the neckline. The sleeves just fall
from the shoulder, open along the top. No seaming that
I can see.

Maybe it's been revised since that review? Or maybe
it's more complicated than it looks, Butterick is
notorious for leaving things out.

I may not have been reading the list when the pattern
came out, but it's certainly not complicated. I'm not
in search of a low waist especially--not with my
waist! I just liked the look of the outfit, and the
pieces look adaptable to other things. I think.

Maybe I should just stick to the 16th century.

Maggie 


--- Lynn Downward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> MaggiRos,
> 
> I think we've talked about this pattern once before,
> when it first
> came out, and I remember that it's not very period.
> I looked at the
> pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three
> separate pieces made
> up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make
> a dress.
> 
> >From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
> #4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa
> 1914
> 
> Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
> I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn
> anything complicated in
> years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not
> accurate, as are
> many of the patterns in the Making History series. I
> couldn't find any
> dresses from the period that resembled this when I
> researched it. The
> abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many
> Butterick patterns
> are here in force. Even worse, several of the
> illustrations are
> incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch
> wide fabric for
> the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic
> pattern won't fit
> on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for
> the tunic but.
> you'll have a seam down the front which actually may
> help with fit and
> prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several
> careful fittings
> during construction are a must. Ignore the
> instructions on seaming the
> sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric;
> you're better off using
> French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may
> have to cut the
> sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and
> didn't bother to
> add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic,
> as the pattern
> construction makes a self trim ribbon.
> 
> Carin's was the only review of this pattern.
> 
> There's got to be something better out there, unless
> you're really
> hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's
> high-waisted
> dress of the same period would look great on you.
> Folkware has their
> own dress of the same time.
> 
> Hope some of that helps.
> 
> See you in a few weeks,
> Lynn
> 
> On 7/3/07, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > MaggiRos,
> > That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
> 1914.  The W should be
> > quite high, right under the bosom & the shape
> generally columnar.
> >
> > As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
> look lovely in
> > something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
> chiffon over charmeuse? An
> > encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
> lace?
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
> > To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
> itself
> > isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
> > historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
> College
> > in August,
> >
> >
>
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1
> >
> > But I don't know anything about this period,
> realy. So
> > what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
> seems
> > perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
> I'm
> > not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
> some
> > of you know. :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > ___
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier
This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The semi low waistline and the 
handkerchief style overskirt.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Lynn Downward

I agree. There were a few years there where it was almost impossible
for me to find attractive (in my eyes) shoes because the heels were
either strange, as those already mentioned, or bent. Remember that
look? Like it was too hot outside and your heel just kind of melted
into a curve? And that style was really expensive! I haven't spoken up
because I didn't like or didn't look good in the styles from 2002-04.
Crop-tops and hip huggers aren't attractive on short/rounds. Neither
are those cropped pants.

LynnD
Still wearing some dress boots from almost 20 years ago that are still
in fashion


On 7/3/07, Catherine Olanich Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Hanna Zickermann wrote:

[snip]

>Heels were less delicate than today, in
> 2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared
> to be very thick seen from the back and thin from
> the side - I found them quite revolutionary.

I agree, but I also think they were ugly.



--
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
-- George Mabry

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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Hanna Zickermann wrote:

[snip]

>Heels were less delicate than today, in
> 2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared
> to be very thick seen from the back and thin from
> the side - I found them quite revolutionary. 

I agree, but I also think they were ugly.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Tuesday 03 July 2007, Beverly Azizi wrote:
> Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 22:39:37 -0600
> From: Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
> drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
> it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
> but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
> long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
> of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
> from today?
>
> Sylrog
>
>   I think encapsulated in that time period we have waistlines on
> pants dipping lower and lower for women and wasn't there  a shift in
> in the length of tops i.e. getting shorter and shorter.  Also the
> advent of the flood pant or cropped pant after pants being extra long
> for a while?  Also the last few years has seen a resurgence of the
> gored skirt (a wink back to medieval times) .  You might want to try
> googling some of the designers collections from 5 years ago to see
> what they show. Good Luck Sylvia


Definitely the cropped pants.  

Also straight skirts in business suits with a 1" - 3" ruffle along the bottom, 
and those horrible pumps with a heel that is round in back and cut off 
straight like a slab on the other side.  Yuk.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Lynn Downward

MaggiRos,

I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.


From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:

#4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown & Girdle circa 1914

Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
construction makes a self trim ribbon.

Carin's was the only review of this pattern.

There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
own dress of the same time.

Hope some of that helps.

See you in a few weeks,
Lynn

On 7/3/07, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Sharon Nevin
Burda magazine might be helpful if you can find a library with back 
issues. There is an archive at http://www.burdamode.com but it only 
goes back to the start of 2004. To access the archive though you need 
to keep the page in german at the start, select "magazine" from the 
lefthand side which will display items under that cantegory. You want 
the "Archiv von burda Modemagazin" which is next to the picture 
composed of lots of magazine covers.  This will bring up the list of 
all issues that are archived. I've just checked and it looks like 
2004 is archived in german only but the pictures are there as are the 
"Technische Zeichnung" (technical drawings).
The only problem with using burda is that some patterns show up in 
Burda before they do in mass ready to wear. I might be noticing that 
only because I'm living in Australia.


Sharon Nevin





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[h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Cin

MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom & the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093&page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Cin

Subject: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions



Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
from today?


Bell bottom revival, even in business suits.  Hiphuggers & bare bellies.
Messed up hair with gel & pomade...
T-shirts, knit tops & sweaters completely encrusted in beads or
embroidery, especially in Asian shops..
--cin
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
Oh yeah.  You reminded me of the sweaters that flared out at the 
wrists.  I still have one, but I hate not being able to roll up the 
sleeves when washing dishes.


On Jul 3, 2007, at 7:17 AM, Kate Pinner wrote:


Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?

Kate

- Original Message - From: "G.Vinje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions


On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:

 What else was popular that is different from

today?


Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to 
the navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural" 
breasts slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or 
light blue colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats 
to just below the knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable


If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through 
them. It might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors, 
shape and shoes in fashion atm.


Gunvor

--
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Hanna Zickermann
I remember pants that were a bit below the navel 
and fell down vertically in the back, with wide 
hems. Heels were less delicate than today, in 
2002 I bought some boots with heels that appeared 
to be very thick seen from the back and thin from 
the side - I found them quite revolutionary. One 
extremely fashionable colleague of mine wore 
kitten heels that year, but I think they were 
available in "regular" shoe stores earliest 2004 
or so (that´s when I bought some).
2002 was also the first year I remember ruffled 
pirate shirts and chemises, worn with pumps and 
cargo pants with lots of pockets and straps with 
D-rings. It looked like the wearer wanted to fix 
camping equipment to her pants. ;-) Mixing 
different clothing styles was a real art, like 
hooded training sweaters with dress pants...

That´s what I remember from Hamburg, Germany.

Hanna


At 06:39 03.07.2007, you wrote:
Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the 
years 2002-4?  I'm drawing pretty much of a 
blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and it 
goes back in time 5 years.  I know things 
haven't changed that much, but there have been 
some changes.  For instance, I do remember 
wearing long straight and slightly a-lined 
skirts, alot of the latter made out of knits.  I 
still have them. What else was popular that is different

from today?


Sylrog

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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread AlbertCat
I remember evening gowns, and red carpet gowns, start to move from that  
clinging 1930's type of shift towards a more structured look. It was still a  
close fitting shift, but in crisper fabrics with more flair at the hem. You see 
 
more trains and fish-tails. And decoration starts to move from applied stuff,  
like beading, to self fabric stuff, like ruffles and pleats. A trend that 
still  lingers.



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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[h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Beverly Azizi

Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 22:39:37 -0600
From: Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm
drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and
it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much,
but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing
long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out
of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different
from today?

Sylrog

		I think encapsulated in that time period we have waistlines on 
pants dipping lower and lower for women and wasn't there  a shift in 
in the length of tops i.e. getting shorter and shorter.  Also the 
advent of the flood pant or cropped pant after pants being extra long 
for a while?  Also the last few years has seen a resurgence of the 
gored skirt (a wink back to medieval times) .  You might want to try 
googling some of the designers collections from 5 years ago to see 
what they show. Good Luck Sylvia


Beverly

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[h-cost] Iranian costuming book

2007-07-03 Thread colleen . mcdonald
Hi all,

I saw this and thought folks on this list might be interested, especially those 
interested in Iran/Persian clothing.

Title: Splendori dall'Iran : Gioelli e costumi per 5000 anni di storia
Author: Balbi de Caro, Silvana
Price: $61.95 
ISBN: 970168034 
Description: Roma: De Luca, 2007. 30cm., pbk., 118pp. illus., most in color. 
Italian text. Exhibition held at Museo Nazionale d'Arte Orientale "Giuseppe 
Tucci", Roma. 
available at www.artbooks.com  (not associated, just a happy customer)

Colleen
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Melanie Schuessler
I think it depends on where you were and what age group, but in South  
Carolina, college-aged girls were wearing sleeves that belled or  
ruffled out at the end, generally from a seam at the elbow or the  
forearm, or less often at the wrist.  I concur that finding some  
magazines from that time would really help.


Melanie Schuessler



On Jul 3, 2007, at 9:48 AM, zelda crusher wrote:


With thumbs poking thru a cut in the "cuff".

Laurie



From: "Kate Pinner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:17:11 -0400

Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?

Kate

- Original Message - From: "G.Vinje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions


On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

 What else was popular that is different from

today?




_
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us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507


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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread zelda crusher

With thumbs poking thru a cut in the "cuff".

Laurie



From: "Kate Pinner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:17:11 -0400

Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?

Kate

- Original Message - From: "G.Vinje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions


On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:

 What else was popular that is different from

today?




_
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Kate Pinner

Was that when young women wore their sleeves to their fingertips?

Kate

- Original Message - 
From: "G.Vinje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions


On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:

 What else was popular that is different from

today?


Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to the 
navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural" breasts 
slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or light blue 
colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats to just below the 
knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable


If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through them. It 
might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors, shape and 
shoes in fashion atm.


Gunvor

--
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Re: [h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread G.Vinje

On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 06:39:37 +0200, Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 What else was popular that is different from

today?


Jeans and pants well below the navel. Bellbottoms. Tight t-shirts to the  
navel or just under. Tight clothes on the upper body. "Natural" breasts  
slowly comming back in fashion. High heels. Green-bluish or light blue  
colors for summer from about 1999 up to 2004.Wintercoats to just below the  
knees. Brown should still be somewhat fashionable


If you have a local library with a magazine section, skim through them. It  
might make you recall things and give you an idea of colors, shape and  
shoes in fashion atm.


Gunvor

--
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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[h-cost] 2002-4 fashions

2007-07-03 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
Any of you ladies recall what you wore in the years 2002-4?  I'm 
drawing pretty much of a blank.   I'm costuming "The Last 5 Years" and 
it goes back in time 5 years.  I know things haven't changed that much, 
but there have been some changes.  For instance, I do remember wearing 
long straight and slightly a-lined skirts, alot of the latter made out 
of knits.  I still have them. What else was popular that is different 
from today?


Sylrog

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