Re: [h-cost] Book question 1895
In the museum of decorative arts in Prague there is a library that holds some old fashion books, and there are also a few from the end of the 19th century, one or two, I don't remember exactly, are very good drafting manuals. It's some time ago that I've searched these books through, so I don't really remember the dates these books were from and the language (though I think it was always German). But if you were interested, I could go and have a look. They photocopy any books you like. I don't think that the copyright is a big deal here, because the books have no living author any more (what a surprise) and all photocopies are to be used for study and non-commercial use. Zuzana __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] D P STANDARDS
To all who've addressed this question to date: Thank you all so much. I now don't 1) feel all alone 2) feel so abused. Here is some of how I do a design assignment or project: Read the script as early as possible, first for impression then for content Research the author, his era, the era of the play Read the script again for actions of characters Line by line read the dialogue for described, prescribed, and proscribed dress Take into account the stage directions and how or if they apply to the stage being used Assess each character's personality Talk to the director Prepare drawings for director's approval Check with set design on color, exits-entrances, any obstructions, need for particular set pieces ( coat rack, etc.) I do not costume actors; I design uniforms for characters (I do take into consideration any physical limitations of the actor) On this show I got the script the afternoon of auditions and was turned on my request for a meeting with director who said she didn't know what she yet and she'd get back to me - never happened. A starter for, not a standard, a precept to work by :never take measurements by yourself, always use a chaperone. If working with children do not use other children for this, always use an adult. Audy in the high boonies of Central Texas PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] drafting/scaling corsets to size, was: Corset pattern 1895
Wooow, I call this a help!!! I just wanted to post a question about what methods you use when drafting/scaling corsets to size. Because I just don't get the scaling or enlarging from an existing pattern. The human body is so diverse, there are so many measurements to care about...though, I admit, a corset is designed to shape the body rather than to adjust to it. I draft all patterns I make, but I still cannot draft a corset that would achieve the period, not modern, figure. I've spent quite a lot of time digging into 19th century drafting books, but I could never find a drafting system for drawing corsets. This simple method about enlarging an existing pattern looks good, I gotta try it:-D It's maybe best to make the right proportions (width and height) in photoshop and then print it to the correct size. Or print it in a small size on an A3/A4 printer and let it be photocopied and enlarged. So, may I ask, what methods do you use when making a corset pattern? If it is not your trade secret, of course:-) Zuzana Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is an original pattern from 1898 someone has scanned in and even explained how one could resize it on the computer. I couldn't figure out exactly what they were talking about, so I simply printed it on mylar and proportionately enlarged it. It made it too long, but that's fairly fixable. With any corset pattern, you should be test fitting it several times anyway. http://www.staylace.com/updatelogs/graphics/school_corset.gif I'm trying my hand at sewing again. I had the urge to get back in thesaddle right in time to finally secure a job. :-) Irony abounds! I'm trying to make a black leather show girl costume in time for a competition in May. I decided to give my imagination free reign, which it still isn't used to. ;-) Cheers, Kathy It#65533;s never too late to be who you might have been.-George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc/Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. -Irish proverb One can never consent to creep when one feels an impulse to soar.-Helen Keller The difference between stupid and intelligent people - and this is true whether or not they are educated - is that intelligent people can handle subtlety. They are not baffled by ambiguous or even contradictory situations. In fact, they expect them and are apt to be suspicious when things seem overly straightforward. - Neal Stephenson, The Diamond Age It's not who you are that holds you back, it's who you think you're not. - Denis Waitley __ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Designer standards
I assume that the material posted so far regarding professional behavior and expectations of costume designers has related mostly to community theatre.? May I comment as a professional costume designer.? I learned very early in my career not to work without a signed contract.? Every contract I sign spells out very clearly what I am responsible for and gives due dates for rough sketches, final sketches and dates?that I am required to be in residence with the theatre company which has employed me.? My contract expires on opening night.? Most contracts also indicate that I will partipate in all design conferences with the director and other designers involved in the production as well as regularly scheduled production and budget meetings.? In addition, the contract gives dates in which I will receive a portion of my design fee.? The contract I am looking at right now stipulates that I will be paid for my work in three installments, the last to occur on opening night.? It also s! tates that I will be given a housing allowance and be reimbured for traveling expenses to and from the theatre company. Having a signed contract protects both the designer and the company.? I learned my lesson when I was first beginning my career wherein, after working for three weeks on designs for a show and being promised a contract any day, the producer quit and the new producer had a girlfriend who was a costume designer.? Guess what happened? Cheryl Odom College of Santa Fe ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian Day at the Computer History Museum
Exhibit Launch Open House: Charles Babbage's Difference Engine No. 2 DATE TIME Saturday, May 10, 2008 12 noon - 5:00 p.m. ABSTRACT OF TALK Join the Computer History Museum in launching its exciting new exhibit: Babbage's Difference Engine No. 2, exhibited for the first time in North America. Bring your family and friends to see and hear the Engine in action! This five-ton Engine is one of only two Charles Babbage's computing engines ever built, consisting of 8,000 parts of bronze, cast iron and steel and measuring 11 feet long and 7 feet high. It was designed to calculate and print mathematical tables. Come to see the docents crank the Engine and watch it mechanically calculate - an arresting spectacle of automatic computing. The exhibit launch and open house, a Victorian-themed event, promises a stunning display of Babbage's elegant design and inspired engineering. His designs for vast mechanical calculating engines rank as one of the startling achievements of the 19th century. The Babbage Exhibit is made possible through the generosity of the following donors: Nathan Myhrvold, Andreas Bechtolsheim, Bell Family Trust, Donna Dubinsky Len Shustek, Judy Estrin, Fry's Electronics - Kathryn Kolder, Dorrit F. Grant Saviers, Marva John Warnock, and special thanks to Science Museum, London. Come to see what no Victorian ever saw. Activities: 12:30, 1:30, 2:30 4:00 p.m. - Babbage's Engine demonstrations 1:00 3:30 p.m. - Screening of Ada Lovelace Film, To Dream Tomorrow (53min) - Popcorn, snowcones and pretzels available all afternoon LOCATION 1401 N. Shoreline Boulevard Mountain View, CA 94043 Directions --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Calling all steam punk nerds: Victorian Day at the Computer History Museum YES! May 10! http://www.computerhistory.org/babbage/ Please forward on to anyone else who may want to attend. mike ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Robin Netherton wrote: Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. I am a fan of Raymond's Quiet Press for buckles, strap ends, etc: http://www.quietpress.com/ You'll have to get your own leather belt strapping, but he really does have a nice selection. He primarily works in bronze, but items can be plated. For pewter findings, there's Fettered Cock: http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_belts.htm . They no longer do custom belts, but I'm a long-term satisfied customer. There's also Billy and Charlie: http://www.billyandcharlie.com/belt.html . Robin, the lady of this particular establishment is the same lady who did the pewter casting demo at Kalamazoo a few years ago. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Raymond's Quiet Press offers that rare combination of good, fast and reasonable price. www.quietpress.com ::Linda:: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 5:52 PM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles? Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
I also endorse Raymond. I know his work and his customer service and have been extremely happy with both. Emma Quoting Linda Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Raymond's Quiet Press offers that rare combination of good, fast and reasonable price. www.quietpress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Maybe not a direct answer to the question but one worth keeping in mind for future reference: Keep an eye on op-shops that are known to carry 1970s stuff. There was a pahse in the early-1970s where chunky older style buckles were being matched up with crappy vinyl belts, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] drafting/scaling corsets to size, was: Corset pattern 1895
This simple method about enlarging an existing pattern looks good, I gotta try it:-D It's maybe best to make the right proportions (width and height) in photoshop and then print it to the correct size. Or print it in a small size on an A3/A4 printer and let it be photocopied and enlarged. I've drafted up a pattern of the Effify corset, based on the photographs available at the time, and scaled up the 1880s corset in Corsets and Crinolines. I really recommend actually adjusting to height rather than width as this is going to be more likely to produce an adjustable pattern for your width. It's much harder to adjust appropriate breast and hip height than it is do add extra to seams (split the panels and add there, as there are so many seams in a corset it's easier to add only a little to each panel without greatly affecting the shaping. This is especially true the greater the difference between your girth vs height and the original girth vs height. The 1880s corset is now too short for my body as I've lost weight which has also dropped my waist which means I wiggle the corset down too far for the upper half to sit well. I've also now had to remove a little from the side panels and the front so that the corset sits close at the back as well as the front. When the bust is too big I find the back wants to close at the top but it then digs into flesh too much, it needs to fit closely without squishing over the bust;) I now suit an 1890s line of corset which is fairly close to what I have wound up making my alterations to my 1880s corset. I just know it fits well as it is apart from the adjustments to the upper half. Michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
On Sunday 13 April 2008, Robin Netherton wrote: Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. I've never bought a belt from Raymond's Quiet Press, but I've bought other jewelry from him over the years, and can vouch for his courtesy, the quality of his goods, and the reasonableness of his prices. What follows are some sites I'm familiar with but, because I don't do 14th c costume, I've never dealt with personally or vetted. These people will actually do the assembly work for you; the catch is that their buckles, strap-ends and mounts are pewter: http://www.billyandcharlie.com/ Fettered Cock Pewters used to make up belts, but now they only sell strapends and buckles. I think theirs are pewter, too. http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_belts.htm Other vendors include The Inner Bailey: http://www.theinnerbailey.com/belts.htm Jelling Dragon mostly sells Viking period stuff, but has a Norman/medieval belt option. Their fittings are bronze, and their prices higher: http://www.jelldragon.com/medieval_belts.htm I'm ignoring, of course, the places that sell medieval ring belts, as though there were such a thing. :-) I wish your friend luck in finding what he needs! -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] You affect the world by what you browse.-- Tim Berners-Lee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] D P STANDARDS
It sounds like you do a very through job. I feel kinda new at this with only five years under my belt. I do all the reading steps, highlight for wardrobe descriptions and/or obvious needs that are in the script, track exits and entrances with time to change intervals and do a full spreadsheet for every character and their costume needs. I do have trouble getting time with the director and other section heads - i.e. props and set designer but so far I have been fortunate that there have been no big conflicts. I've learned to say if it doesn't go through my sewing machine, I don't provide it. I second the don't take measurements alone but for a slightly different reason since I'm never really alone when taking measurements. My problem arose the morning after measuring a cast of 56 in a three hour period - up -down- up - down -up -well you get the picture. My quads were so sore for the next 5 days I could hardly walk, I just hobbled. You are never alone when there are so many helpful and knowledgeable people here on this list. I lurk a lot - I read this list almost every day and am constantly impressed and enlightened by the willingness of so many to share with all the rest of us. Thank you to everyone - those who ask and those who answer. Anniecat Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 14:57:21 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] D P STANDARDS To all who've addressed this question to date: Thank you all so much. I now don't 1) feel all alone 2) feel so abused. Here is some of how I do a design assignment or project: Read the script as early as possible, first for impression then for content Research the author, his era, the era of the play Read the script again for actions of characters Line by line read the dialogue for described, prescribed, and proscribed dress Take into account the stage directions and how or if they apply to the stage being used Assess each character's personality Talk to the director Prepare drawings for director's approval Check with set design on color, exits-entrances, any obstructions, need for particular set pieces ( coat rack, etc.) I do not costume actors; I design uniforms for characters (I do take into con! sideration any physical limitations of the actor) On this show I got the script the afternoon of auditions and was turned on my request for a meeting with director who said she didn't know what she yet and she'd get back to me - never happened. A starter for, not a standard, a precept to work by :never take measurements by yourself, always use a chaperone. If working with children do not use other children for this, always use an adult. Audy in the high boonies of Central Texas PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic. http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164ocid=T003MSN51N1653A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
